Post on 07-Mar-2016
description
Barcelona, July 2012
From open source branding to collaborative clothing
Zoe Romano@zoescope
@openwear_cc
In 2005 San Precario collective based in Milan organized an action to highlight the exploitation of workers in the fashion system
★ We created a fake fashion designer and managed to insert it in the official calendar of Milan Fashion Week
★ We presented a brand identity and the immaterial reality of her existence.
★ A collection of allegoric outfits expressing our experiences of work and, at the same time, showing our skills
★The action involved 200 workers and creatives living and working in Milan
Precarity in the Fashion System
What to do next
After the Fashion Week and the successful action we decided to create a no-profit association to
★ keep reflecting on work in the creative industries - over-production
★ being active on experimenting self-production and craft - understanding quality
★ start a reflection on intellectual property, open-source and branding - value Fashion garments are not protected by copyright, only the brand is protected by trademark
Oh! We have a Trademark
Brand built to appeal
Values Cultural mix - Controversy -
Elitistic
Brand as symbolic apparatus to gather relations toward
consumer culture
Brand expressing who is nurturing it
ValuesSharing - Social innovation - Flexicurity not precarity - Alternative economies
Brand as tool to promote new values in society
The Fashion System: a polarization
Big Brands Fast Fashion
A new trend: the rise of DIY
The values, the imageries and the desires expressed by our brand are not manufactured to foster consumerism and based on exploitation but
to empower a network of small producers and promote a different kind of fashion based on collaboration, sharing, short supply chain and else.
A Metabrand is not a Certification
A Metabrand is a bottom-up brand created buy a peer-reviewed network of small creators and
consumers who produce value for the brand and benefit from it at the same time
EDUfashion network was formed by: Poper (Slovenia), Ethical Economy (UK), Università Statale Milano (IT), Copenhagen Business School (DM), Fashion University (Slovenia)
★ Research on the Open Design and p2p fashion
★ Prototyping the community in 2010
2009 Let’s go EU application
Key point of experimentation
• Define the networked artisan as a new worker
fashion designer ------->networked artisan<------------ crafter/artisan
(highly immaterial) (highly material)
• Brand Open Source Copyright (Creative Commons License, GPL, etc.),
• Manufacturing becomes a distributed process (makers/manufacturers)
• Copy as a legitimate resource Fashion doesn’t protect the technical specification of the garments.
• The online community as a new Public Space
• Enterprise goes social: Social goals are primary, business is a way to achieve them
The new role of the freelance designer: she inhabits the global spaces of online communities and shares locally projects and infrastructures
NETWORKED ARTISANS/STUDENTS/CONSUMERS
LOCAL HUBS(social enterprises)
EDU INSTITUTIONS(universities, schools,
learning centers)Suppliers
★ Building and online and offline community to share knowledge, find support and collaborators to define a new model for crafts.
3 shared resources
★ A series of Collaborative collection with an open-source brand
★ Prototypes freely downloadable which members can produce and sell, benefiting from the social innovation created within the community.
Openwear is open-source
★ A collective brand made open-source by a license
★ The pattern and the logo become a common of the community
http://vimeo.com/16541497
- Download
- Produce
- Customize
- Label with Openwear
Peer-reviewed Network
WORKSHOP - Make it with the laser!
Making it together is better than making yourself