Contents

Introduction

Soap-MakingEssentials

Ingredients

Techniques

LuxuriousLathers

MessyPlay

NaturalLiving

CuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap

DecoratingandPackagingSoap

Troubleshooting

AdvancedTechniques

Suppliers

Resources

AbouttheAuthor

Acknowledgments

Copyright

Introduction

ForaslongasIcanrememberIhavebeenfascinatedwithmakingmyownnaturalproducts.Myearlyforaysintoperfumeryconsistedofacollectionofrosepetalsfrommygrandfather’srosebedsquirrelledaway,andmixedwithwaterinanoldjamjaronasunnyday.Thesewerenotsuccessful,butenabledmetowhileawayafewhoursinthesunshineasachild!

Myearlyinspirationwasamarvellousbookofmymother’sentitledTheNaturalBeautyBookbyClareMaxwell-Hudson.WithinitIfoundrecipesforskincreams,lipbalmsandfacemasks;allmadeusingingredientsfoundinthekitchenorgarden.IstillhavethatbookandIliketothinkthatitstartedmeonthepathtomycareerandawayoflifethatIlovetosharewithothers.

AlthoughImadecreamsandlotionsforyears,itwasonlynineyearsagothatIdiscoveredsoapmakingthroughanotherbookgiventomebyafriend.Traditionalcoldprocesssoapisafarcryfromthefactory-madesoapsthatIrememberasachild,andonceIstartedmakingmyownIknewtherewasnogoingback.

TheHistoryofSoapSoaphasalongandfascinatinghistory,andcertainlyinEuropetheCeltswereknowntouseasubstancemadefromanimalfatsandplantashesforbathingandwashing.TheRomansoriginallyusedsoapmadefromgoattallowandwoodashesandthereisevidenceofanentiresoapfactoryundertheruinsofPompeii,completewithfinishedbars.SoaphasbeenmadeinEuropesincethe13thcentury,andthecountrieswithaccesstooliveoilwereabletoproducesuperior

century,andthecountrieswithaccesstooliveoilwereabletoproducesuperiorsoapforpersonalbathing.NorthernFranceandEnglandonlyhadaccesstoanimaltallowandthisproducedaninferiorbar,mainlyusedforlaundryandtextilecleaning.

Soapwasoriginallyusedforpersonalbathing,laundryandallotherwashinguntil1916,whentheFirstWorldWarledtoashortageoffatsthatinspiredtheproductionofthefirstdetergents.Detergentshavenowreplacedsoapinalllaundryandcleaningproducts,andmanybodycareproductsaremadefromdetergentsratherthansoap.Nowadaysthereareshelvesandshelvesofshowergels,bodywashesandhandcleansers,andverylittleinthewayofsoapsoldinsupermarkets.

WhatisSoap?Soapismadebycombiningoilswithsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)–ifyouknowyourschoolbiology:acidsandbases–tomakeahardproductthatcleanseswithapHofabout8.5.Thereactionthattakesplacewhenoilsandsodiumhydroxidearecombinedinwaterataparticulartemperatureiscalledsaponification,andthisiswhatproducestheendproduct.Aharshalkalicombinedwithoilsmakesamildandcreamylatheringproductthatisgentleontheskinandhasnoneofthecausticcatalystleft.

Intermsofhowsoapworks,whenwaterisaddedtoitandagitateditmakesalather,whichsuspendsdirtinitandallowsittobewashedaway.Therearemanypeoplewhofeelthathandsoapisunhygienicbecauseofthis,andtherehasrecentlybeenahugeshifttowardshandpumpdetergentsoapswithantibacterialproductsadded.Sadlythesearecontributingtotheproblemofantibiotic-resistantbugsandarenotanymorehygienic.Dirtyhandsstillhavetotouchthepumpinthesamewaythattheydothesoap,exceptallthedirtisleftonthepumpratherthanwashedawaywiththesoap.

Initsmostbasicform,soapisacombinationofsimpleingredients:onceyouhavemasteredthebasicsthereisavastpotentialtochangethetexture,colour,shapeandfragrancetomakeyourownpersonalizedproductsthatare

colour,shapeandfragrancetomakeyourownpersonalizedproductsthataresuitableforavarietyofuses.

WhyMakeSoap?IstartedsoapmakingbecauseIwasbecomingincreasinglysensitivetodetergentsandcommercialcleaningandbodycareproducts.Evencommercially-madesoaplacksglycerine,whichisanaturalby-productoftheprocessandenablessoaptosootheandcleanwithoutirritation.Glycerineisextractedincommercialsoapmakingandsoldseparatelyforuseincoughmedicinesandhomeremedies.Traditionalcoldprocesssoapmakingretainsthismarvellousingredient,andthisisoneofthemanyreasonswhyIloveit.

AboutThisBookThisbookaimstogiveyouathoroughgroundinginthebasicandessentialtechniquesthatareneededtomakeareallygoodbarofsoap.Eachprojectbuildsonprevioustechniquesandallowsyoutolearnatapacethatconsolidatesyourknowledge.Inadditiontoold-fashionedsoap-makingtechniques,youwillalsolearnaboutmeltandpoursoap,whichisaquickandsafemethodofsoapmakingwithouttheuseofcausticchemicals,andisbrilliantforchildrentolearn.

Thebookisdividedintothreesections.LuxuriousLatherswillintroduceyoutoawidevarietyofirresistiblesoapsforeveryoccasion,madebycombiningbasicsoaprecipeswithexcitingbotanicals,fragrancesandcolours.MessyPlayprovidesarangeoffunsoapproductstomakewithchildren,togetthemstartedonthepathofnaturalproductmaking.Whilesoapisprimarilyusedforwashingthebody,ithasaplethoraofotherusesaroundthehome,andNaturalLivingexploresthewaysthatyoucanuseupyoursoapscrapswithothernaturalingredientstomakeyourowncleaningproducts,dishwashertablets,washingpowderandmore.

Onceyouhavemadeyoursoapyouwillwanttoshowitofftoitsbest

Onceyouhavemadeyoursoapyouwillwanttoshowitofftoitsbestadvantage,andfinallyyouwillfindideasforhowtopackageandwrapyourhomemadeitemsforgiftsortosell.Onceyouhavemasteredthebasics,thereareplentyoftoptipsontroubleshootingandadvancedtechniquestoinspireyou.

Ihopethatyouenjoythisbookanditwillbringyouasmuchjoyassoapmakinghasbroughttomeovertheyears.

Soap-MakingEssentials

Soapmakingisverymuchlikecookingandyoumayalreadyhavemostoftheequipmentyouwillneedlyingaroundthehouse.Onceyoustartusingsomethingforsoapmaking,keepitjustforthattoavoidtransferofchemicalsandessentialsoilstoyourcookingequipment.

EquipmentandMaterialsHereisalistofbasicequipmentandmaterialsthatyouwillneedtohaveathandduringthesoap-makingprocess:

1.Heavy-dutyrubbergloves,apron,safetygogglesandlong-sleevedtop:thiswillprotecttheuserfromcausticspillsandfumes.

2.Vinegar:essentialtohaveonhandatalltimes.Itneutralizesthesodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)–acidneutralizesanalkali–andifyoumanagetogetsomecausticliquidorrawsoaponyourskin,aquicksprayfollowedbyawashwillpreventanyburns.If,likeme,youhavepetsandchildren,cleaningthefloorsandsurfaceswithvinegaralleviatesanyworryaboutunknownspills.

3.Stainlesssteelsaucepan:formakingthesoapin(3litres(51⁄4pints)minimum).Donotuseanyothertypesofmetal,suchasaluminium,asitwillreactwiththesoap.

4.Heatsourceformeltingoil:yourhob(stove)orasmallelectriccampingstovethatcanbeusedanywhere.

5.Moulds:pourrawsoapintothesetocreatethebasicshapeofyourfinishedsoaps.Therearemanytypesavailable,rangingfromcardboardlinedwithgreaseproof(wax)papertocustom-madesiliconemouldsthatalloweasy

soaprelease.Thebestmouldsaresiliconeorheavy-dutyplastic,whichcanbelinedorgreased.Ifyouareakeenrecycleryoucanusedrainpipes,juiceboxes,emptycardboard,plasticpotsandcakemoulds.Therearevariouswebsitessellingcommercialmouldsthatallowyoucutuniformbarsandnoveltysiliconemoulds(seeSuppliers).Generally,thelargertheamountofsoapyoumakeatonce,thebettertheendresults.Althoughitistemptingtopoursoapintoprettylittlesilicone-shapedmoulds,theyloseheattooquicklyandsaponificationwilltakemuchlonger.Tocreatesmallbars,waituntilyoumakeabatchinalargemouldandpopthesmallermouldsontopofthelargemouldbeforeinsulationtotakeadvantageoftheextraheatgenerated.

6.Clingfilm(plasticwrap)orheavy-dutyplastic:forcoveringthesurfaceofyourmouldedsoaptopreventunsightlysodaash(awhitepowderthatissometimesproducedwhenairreactswiththesoapduringsaponification).Sodaashisnotharmful,butapurelyaestheticissuethatcanbescrapedoff.

7.Greaseproofpaper:tolinecardboardorwoodenmoulds.8.Towelsorblanketsandcardboard:forinsulatingrawsoaponceithasbeen

pouredintoamouldtopreventheatlossandensurefullsaponification.Placetwolargetowelsonyourtablefollowedbyasheetofcardboard,thenthesoapandanotherlayerofcardboard.Finallywrapthesoapinthetowels.Inacoldroom,anadditionalblanketcanbewrappedaroundthesoap.

9.Scalesforweighing:accurateelectronicscalesthatgodownto1g(1⁄16oz)anduptoatleast3kg(6lb8oz).(Ifyouwishtogointocommercialproductioninthefuture,asetoftradescaleswillberequired.)

10.Plasticorglassbowlsandjugs:forweighingoutsodiumhydroxideanddryingredients,formixingupsodiumhydroxideandformeasuringwater.

11.Cleanjam(jelly)jars:forstoringessentialoils.Itisbesttore-usejamjarsforparticularblendsofessentialoilsratherthanwashingtheoilsinadishwasherorthesink.Iuseadifferentjarforeachessentialoilblendand

keepthemonashelfforre-useeachtime;thisalsoprevents

TechniqueTipIfyouhaveniceworktopsinyourkitchen,Iadvisemakingthesoapelsewhereratherthanruiningyoursurfaces(don’taskhowIknowthat,butaveryexpensivelesson!).Otherwise,covertheworktopswithaplastictableclothoroilclothbeforeyoustart.

BasicSoap-MakingToolKitThefollowingtoolswillbeusedagainandagainduringthesoap-makingprocess:

1.Soap-makingthermometerandjamthermometer:thesoap-makingthermometerisessentialforusewiththecausticliquidasitdoesnotdeteriorateinsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)likeajamthermometerwould.(Believeme,itisnotfuntryingtopickfloatingnumbersoutofyourmixwhenyouhaveforgottenandleftitinthecausticliquid;funnilyenoughathermometerisnotthesameoncethenumbersaregone!)Jamthermometers,however,areusefulforhangingonthesideofapanofoilstomeasuretemperature.

tomeasuretemperature.2.Siliconewhisks,spatulas,spoonsandstickblender(optional):theseare

idealforuseinsoapmakingastheydonotdeteriorateinheatandcausticmixtures.Agoodsiliconespatulawillalsoscrapeoffasurprisingamountofsoapthatwouldotherwisebewasted.Whisksareusedtostirtherawsoap.Onceyouareproficientinsoapmakingwithawhiskandaremovinguptolargerbatches,astickblenderismuchmoreeffective(seeAdvancedTechniques).

3.Cheesegrater:forgratingyourfinishedsoaptorecycleitintoavarietyofadditionalproductsanditems.

4.Siliconeorplasticladle:topourthesoapintothemouldsifthepanistooheavytoliftwhenmakinglargebatches.

5.Sharpknife,cheesecutter,soapcuttingtool,choppingboard:tocutyoursoapbarsfordryingoncethesoapisreadytocut.

6.Sprayoilorpaintbrushforgreasingmouldswithasprayormeltedsolidoils.

7.Coffeegrinderorpestleandmortarforgrindingspices,herbsandoats.8.PHstripsfortestingyourfinishedsoaponceithascooledandhardened.

Inexpensivelitmuspapersareeasilypurchasedonline.

HealthandSafetyTipsByfollowingafewsimplerules,soapmakingcanbeasafeandenjoyablehobby:

Wearclose-fittinggogglesfromthebeginningtotheendoftheprocessandalsoforcleaningup.Wearlong-sleevedtopsandtrousers,aswellasheavy-dutyrubbergloves.Surgicalglovescanbeusedforadditionaldexterityandwhenmeasuringoutessentialoils,howeverthesearetoothinandshortforsoapmaking.Keeppetsandchildrenoutofthesoap-makingareauntilaftercleanup,andwheneveryouhandleraworcausticsoap.KeepequipmentseparateandawayfromthekitchenwhennotinuseHavevinegartohandatalltimestoneutralizespillsandcleansurfaces.Sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)ispoisonous.Ifyouingestit,drinklotsofwaterandcontactapoisoncontrolcentre.Ifyougetsodiumhydroxideinyoureyes,rinsethemwithplentyofcleanwaterforatleasthalfanhourandgettohospital.Whenmakingupyourcausticwatermix,fumesarereleased–keepyourheadawayfromthebowlwhenmixingandmakeyoursoapinawell-ventilatedroomoroutside,ifpossible.AlwayspHtestyoursoapbeforehandlingandleaveittocureforfourtosixweeks.

Ingredients

Thebasiccomponentsofhandmadesoaparetheoils,sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)andaliquid.Usingtheseitems,youcanmakeaverysimplebarofsoap.Howeverthereareaplethoraofessentialoils,fragrances,colours,exfoliantsandbotanicalsavailablethatyoucanaddtoenhanceandpersonalizeyoursoap.

Oils

Oilsarethebulkoftherecipeandeachoilyouusebringsuniquequalitiestothefinishedproduct.Eachoilrequiresaparticularamountofsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)toconvertitintosoap(saponificationvalue).Saponificationchartscanbefoundonlineandthereareusefulcalculatorsthatwillaccuratelyworkouttheamountofsodiumhydroxideneededtomakeyourrecipesuccessfulandsafe(MMSLyecalculator:www.thesage.com).Whenmakingsoapitisimportanttohaveextraoilinyourrecipetokeepitmild.Thisextraoiliscalledsuperfattingandmyrecipesareusuallysixtosevenpercentexcessfat.Ifyouhavetoolittleexcessfatyouruntheriskofhavingaharshratherthanasoothingsoap.

Hereisaselectionofthemostusedoilsandtheirproperties.Youcanfindavarietyofchartsonlinethatdetailthepropertiesofoilsusedinsoapmakingandthemaximumamountstouseinarecipeforthebestresults(seeResources).Experimentwiththefollowingoilsatthequantitiessuggestedtovarythedensityandtextureof

yoursoapandthequalityofthelatherproduced.Alwaysrunanynewrecipesthroughalyecalculator.

1.Sunfloweroil

2.Olivepomaceoil3.Palmoil

4.Coconutoil

5.Sheabutter

6.Cocoabutter

7.Castoroil

8.Hempoil

OliveOil:25–50%Oliveoilusuallymakesupatleasthalfoftheoilsusedinarecipe.Itproducesamildcreamylatherandahardmoisturizingbar.Youcanusemostgradesofoliveoil,butolivepomaceismostcost-effectiveandspeedsupthetimeittakestowhiskthesoaptotrace(traceisthethickeningofthesoap,seeTechniques).Usingextravirginoliveoilslowsdowntheprocessconsiderablyinmyexperience.

CoconutOil:Useupto30%

CoconutOil:Useupto30%CoconutisanotheroilthatIrecommendinallrecipesandbelieveisessentialtoagoodbarofsoap.Itmakesahardbarwithgreatlatherandlovelybigwhitebubblesthatdonotvanishimmediately.

PalmOil:25–50%Palmoil,alongwithcoconutandoliveoil,arethemostcommonlyusedoilsinsoapmakingandforgoodreason.Palmoilhasalovelycreamyconsistencyandproducesahardbarwithastablelather.Palmoilis,however,acontroversialoilintermsofitsproductionandtheeffectonecosystemsandhabitatsintheareasofMalaysiaandThailandwhereitisfarmedextensively.Ifyouwishtousepalmoilbutavoidtheethicalconcernsitisbesttobuyorganicpalmoil,whichoriginatesinColumbiaandisproducedonasmall,ethicalscale.

CastorOil:5–15%Castoroilisusedinsmallquantitiesinsoapmaking.Itisparticularlyusefulformakingshampoobars,asitassistsinrinsingandproducesamoisturizinglather.

CocoaButter:5–15%Cocoabutterhassimilarpropertiestopalmoilandproducesahardbarwithastablelather.Itis,however,anexpensiveoilandisoftenbettersuitedasanadditivewithyouressentialoilsandbotanicals.

SheaButter:5–15%Sheabutterisaluxuriousandexpensivebutterthatgivesahard,silkyqualitytothebarofsoapthatyoumakewithit.Itcanbecombinedwithcocoabuttertoreplacethepropertiesofpalmoilinyoursoap.Itisalsousedalotasanutrientoilaftertracewiththebotanicals.

SunflowerOil:10–20%Sunfloweroilisagoodreplacementforsomeoftheoliveoilinarecipe.Itproducesastablelather,ismildlycleansingandslowsdowntrace.

HempOil:5–10%Hempoilissoothingtotheskinandproducesasoftbarofsoap,ifusedinlargequantities,withastableandconditioninglather.Itispronetorancidity,soonlyuseinsmallquantitiesandusethesoapwithinayear.

TechniqueTipIfyouressentialoilsorfragrancesarepronetoseizing(solidifyinginthepanbeforepouring),usingabetterqualityoliveoil(extravirgin)willreducethisprobleminmyexperience.

ColoursThereareavarietyofwaystocoloursoap,butdobearinmindthatthenatureofcoldprocesssoapandtheingredientsusedoftenproduceunexpectedresultswithcolour,soexperimentationiskey.Ashandmadesoapissuchanaturalproduct,Itendtousecoloursthatproduceearthy,mutedhuesratherthanbrightcolours.Toproducenaturalcoloursusespicesandclays.Experimentwiththepercentageofthesenaturalcoloursuntilyouachievearesultthatyouarehappywith.Toachievebrightcoloursexperimentwithoxidesandcosmeticpigmentsavailablefromsoapsupplycompanies(seeSuppliers).Instructionsforusingthesecolourtypeswillappearwithintherecipes.

Meltandpoursoapscanbecolouredwithliquidsoapcolouringordrypigmentsthataremadeupwithwaterandaddedtoyourrecipe.Formeltandpouritisbesttoadd1.25ml(1⁄4tsp)ofcolouringto15ml(1tbsp)ofwater,addingthecolouradropatatimeuntilyouarehappywiththefinishedshade.Essentialoilscanalsoimpartdelicateshadestothesoap.

Thefollowingnaturalingredientsandspiceswilladdcolourtoyoursoaps:1.Cocoapowder

2.Cinnamon

3.Cayennepepper4.Bentoniteclay5.Turmeric

6.Currypowder

7.Frenchpinkclay8.Paprika

9.Spirulinapowder

ScentsThemajorityofscentsthatIusearenaturalessentialoilsorbotanicals,suchashoneyandcinnamon,bothofwhichgiveamouth-wateringscent.Certainsmellscanonlybeattainedfromtheuseoffragranceoilsandmostofthesearefood-basedscents,suchascoconut,appleandcherry.

Essentialoilsnotonlyscentthesoapbutalsoofferthebenefitsofaromatherapy,andmanyoftheessentialoilshaveanti-fungaloranti-bacterialpropertiesthathelpthesoaptolastlonger.Essentialoilsandfragrancesareavailablefromreputablesoapsupplycompanies(seeSuppliers).Blendingofessentialoilsisadelicatebusinessandyoucanfindahugeamountofrecipesonlineifyouwishtoexperimentandarenotaqualifiedaromatherapist(seealsoAdvancedTechniques).Pleasebearinmindthatessentialoilsarepowerfulandshouldbeusedwithbothcautionandgloves!

Essentialoilsadddeliciousscentalongwithusefulanti-fungalandantibioticproperties:1.Cinnamon

2.Lavender

3.Orange

4.Peppermint

5.Rosemary

Botanicals

Ahugevarietyofbotanicalscanbeaddedtoyoursoaptoprovidetextureandinterest.Someprovideexfoliation,suchasoats,pumiceandcoffee;somearedecorative,suchaslavenderbudsandorangeslices;andothershavetherapeuticbenefits,suchasaloevera,vitaminEandhoney.Botanicals,coloursandscentsarealladdedtoyoursoaprecipeoncetracehasoccurred(seeTechniques).Certainbotanicals,suchasrosebudsandpetals,arebetterasanexternaldecorationsoncethesoapismadeandishardening.

Botanicalscanbeusedtoprovideexfoliation,todecorateyoursoapsortoaddtherapeuticbenefits:1.Oats

benefits:1.Oats

2.Coffeegrounds3.Pumice

4.Olivestone

5.Apricotstone

6.Lavender

7.Calendula

8.Sage

9.Rosemary

10.Thyme

11.Comfrey

12.Nettle

13.Lemongrass

14.Jasmine

15.Rosepetals

16.Rosebuds

17.Clovebuds

18.Cinnamon

19.Honey

20.VitaminE

21.Aloevera

22.Orangeslices23.Orangepeel

24.Lemonslices

25.Lemonpeel

26.Desiccatedcoconut27.Seaweedpowder28.Chocolate

29.Goats’milkpowder30.Poppyseeds

Techniques

ColdProcessMakingcoldprocesssoapisassimpleandpleasingascooking,andwithtechniquesthathavebarelychangedoverthelastfewhundredyears,itisatraditionalskillthatiseasytomaster.Coldprocesshandmadesoapisgentlerandlessdryingthancommercialsoapasitretainsglycerineasanaturalby-product.

Inthepast,familieswouldhaveasoapdayonwhichtheywouldmakeenoughsoaptolastthewholeyear.Nowwiththeadventofsodiumhydroxideyouarenolongersavingwoodashtomakeanalkali,nordoyouneedtowaitforthefat.Bysimplyassemblingingredientsaccordingtotherecipeandafewbasicitemsofequipment,luxurioussoapcanbemadeinjustafewsparehours.Thecoldprocesstechniqueisusedinmanyoftheprojectsinthisbook.Besuretoreadthesafetyadvicebeforeyoubeginand,mostimportantly,enjoyit!SoapBaseIngredients

•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•Botanicalsandessentialoils(NB:Addrequiredamountsaspertherecipeyouarefollowing)

•375ml(13floz)coldfilteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

1Greaseyourchosenmouldwithasmallamountofmeltedcoconutoilandapaintbrush

2Lineyourmouldusinggreaseproof(wax)paper,foldingitovertheedgesofthemould.(Thisisnotnecessaryifyouareusingasiliconemould.)3Weighouttheolivepomace,coconutandpalmoilsintoyourpanand

heatthemwhilestirringuntilallthesolidoilshavemeltedandthetemperatureisapproximately60°C(140°F).Taketheoilsofftheheatandleavetooneside,placingathermometerinthepan.4Weighoutallbotanicalsandessentialoilsaccordingtotherecipe

youarefollowing.Remembertouserubberglovestohandleessentialoils.5Measurethewaterintoalargebowlandweighoutthesodium

hydroxideintoadrycleanjug.Wearyourgogglesandrubberglovesandworkinawell-ventilatedarea.

6Addthesodiumhydroxidetothewaterwhilestirring.Becarefultoturnyourheadanddonotinhaleanyofthefumesreleased.Onceitis

stirredthoroughlyandallthesodiumhydroxidehasdissolved,leavethemixturetoonesideandplaceathermometerinit.7Overthenexthour,periodicallycheckthetemperatureoftheoilsand

thesodiumhydroxidemix.Oncethetwomixturesareapproximately52°C(125°F)slowlyandcarefullypourthesodiumhydroxidemixintotheoils.8Whiskthemixtureconstantlyuntilitstartstothickenandleaveslines

inthewakeofthewhisk.Thisstageintheprocessisknownas‘tracing’andcantakeanythinguptoanhourormore.Testifthemixtureistracingbyliftingthespoonoutofthemixtureanddrippingtheliquidalongitssurface.Ifitsinkswithoutamarkitisnottracing;ifitleaveslinesinthesurfaceitisready.9Oncetraceoccursaddtheessentialoilsandanybotanical

ingredientsifyouareusingthem,andstirthoroughly.10Carefullypourthethickenedmixtureintoyourpreparedmoulds.

11Placeclingfilm(plasticwrap)directlyontothesurfaceofthesoapinthemould,coveringitcompletelytopreventtheformationofsodaash.Layouttowelsorblanketsfollowedbycardboardontoyourworksurface,placethemouldsontothecardboardandaddextracardboardoverthetop.Finallywraptheblanketortowelsaroundittopreventthesoapfromcoolingtooquickly.Leavetocoolforabout24hours.12Oncethesoapiscold,pullitoutofthemouldusingthefoldedlining

papertoreleaseit.13PHtestyoursoapbydissolvingashavingintoasmallamountof

wateranddippingapHstripintothemixture.ThepHshouldbe10orlowerandinmostcasesitwillbepH8or9.IfthesoapisabovepH10,leaveitforafewweekstocurethentestitagain.14Oncedry,cutthesoapintobarsandleavethemtohardenforfour

tosixweeks(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap),ensuringthere

isspacebetweeneachbarforairtocirculate.Turnthebarsweekly.Thelongerthebarsarelefttodry,theharderandlonger-lastingthesoapwillbe.

TechniqueTipWhenworkingwithsodiumhydroxide,keepvinegarspraytohandatalltimes.Vinegarwillneutralizethealkaliifthesodiumhydroxidecomesintocontactwithyourskin.

TechniqueTipIfthesoapisnotreleasedfromthemouldseasily,placethemintothefreezerforapproximatelyeighthours.Oncefrozen,removethemouldsandwhilewearinggloves,turnthesoapoutontoatrayorsimilarsurfacetothaw.

TechniqueTipIftheoiltemperaturehasdroppedtoolowyoucangentlyreheatit,rememberingtoremoveitfromtheheatwhenitisseveraldegreeslowerthanyourequire.Tocooloverheatedoil,placethepaninasinkofcoldwaterandstiruntilitreachesthedesiredtemperature,removingitwhenitisafew

inasinkofcoldwaterandstiruntilitreachesthedesiredtemperature,removingitwhenitisafewdegreeshigherthanyouneed,asitwillcontinuetocool.

MeltandPour

Meltandpoursoapbaseisaformofpre-madesoapthatallowsyoutomakeyourowninashorttime,withoutthechemicalprocessesinvolvedinthecoldprocesstechnique.Itisaproductthatissimpleandsafeforbothchildrenandadultstouse.Therearecertainchemicalsaddedtothesoaptoallowittobesoflexibleandeasytouse,butitisverygoodformakingsmall,prettysoapsanddoesnothavethelongcuretimethatcoldprocesshas.Meltandpourcomesinclearandopaquevarieties,bothofwhichtakecolourandscentwellandcanhavebotanicalsadded.SoapBaseIngredients

•Stephensonclearorwhitemeltandpoursoapbase(seeSuppliers)•Rubbingalcohol

1Weighouttheamountofmeltandpoursoapbaserequiredfortherecipe.Cutupintosmallchunkstoallowforquickermelting.2Placethechunksinamicrowaveablebowlorsmallpanandmelt

slowlyonalowheattoavoidbubblesandoverheating.(Ideallyheattoaround120°C(250°F)orchecktheoptimumtemperaturewiththemanufacturer.)3Oncethesoaphasmeltedyoumustworkquicklytoaddyour

fragrance,colourandbotanicalsasaskinformsquickly.Youcanre-meltitifaskinforms,butthismayallowthefragrancetoevaporate,soavoidifpossible.Usecoloursparingly–toomuchwillaffectthetransparencyofthesoapandinsomecasesproducecolouredlatherthatcanstainbaths

andlinens.Donotaddtoomuchinthewayofglittersandiridescentpowdersastheycansinktothebottominexcess.4Onceyouhaveaddedallyourbotanicals,pourintothemoulds.

5Spraythesurfaceofthesoapwithrubbingalcohol(availablefromchemists/drugstores)toremoveanybubbles.6Oncehard,youcanunmouldanduse.Ifyoursoapdoesnotcome

outeasily,placeitintothefridgeforafewhourstohardenandpullawayfromthesidesofthemould.Donotfreezeasthiscancausethefinishedsoaptocrack.

BotanicalBasicsBecausemeltandpourdoesnotrequirethehightemperaturesofcoldprocess,thebotanicalsretaintheircolourandstructure.Therearenospecialmaterialsrequired;simplyheatsmallquantitiesinthemicrowaveorlargequantitiesinapan.

LuxuriousLathers

Theprojectsinthisbookaredesignedtotakeyoufrombasicsoapthroughavarietyofexcitingtechniquestoallowyoutoconsolidateyourknowledgeandbecomeproficientinsoapmaking.Eachprojectisbasedonabasicrecipewithluxuriousbotanicalsandfun,fruityfragrancecombinationsaddedtomakeyoursoaptrulyirresistible.Thereissomuchsoap-makinginformationouttheretotakeyoutothenextlevel,butitisimportanttogetthebasicsrightbeforemovingonthroughthewonderfulworldofhandmadesoap,sotakeyourtimeandmostimportantly,havefun!Eachrecipeiseasytofollowwithalistofingredientsandadditionalequipment,handytipsandclearstep-by-stepinstructionstocoveranynewtechniquesthatyouwillneed.

BabySoft

Technique:ColdProcess

Newbornbabiesdonotneedtobewashedwithsoapforthefirstfewmonths,butwhenyouarereadytostartusingsomethingmorethanwater,thissimplesoapwithnoessentialoilsisidealforbaby’ssensitiveskin.Thehealingpropertiesofthecalendulapetalsareperfectforsoothingnappyrashandenhancingthatpurenewbornbabyscent.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater

•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•30g(1oz)calendulaoil•Handfulofcalendulapetals

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtohold1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Cookiecutter(optional)•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),addingthecalendulaoilandpetalsattrace.

2Unmouldthesoapandsliceit.Allowtocureforfourtosixweeks(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

BotanicalBasics

Theadditionalcalendulaoilmakesamoremoisturizingbar,andbyaddingitattrace,moreofitspropertieswillberetainedinthefinishedproduct.

MakingCalendulaOilTomakecalendulaoilyouwillneedadryjamjarwithalid,verydrycalendulapetals,oliveoilandsunshine.Filltwothirdsofthejarwithcalendulapetalsandtopupwitholiveoil(useorganicextravirginoliveoilandorganiccalendulapetals,ifpossible).Leaveittosteepinasunny,warmplaceforthreetofourweeks.Strainoffthepetalsandsqueezeoutasmuchoilasyoucan.Labelthejarandkeepitinadarkcupboardreadyforuseonitches,stings,bites,scrapes,cutsornappyrash.Youcouldalsomakeitintoacreamorbalm.

SoapStyleUsecookiecutterstomakeshapedsoapstodelightchildrenofallages.

ClearlyLavender

Technique:MeltandPour

Oneofthebestthingsaboutmeltandpoursoapisthatyoucanmakesmallquantitiesasandwhenyouneedthem.Thesesimplesoapsaresoversatileandcanbemadewithoutanyspecialequipmentorcolourants–allyouneedisaclearmeltandpoursoapbase,anysiliconemouldshapeandcolouring.Thissumptuoussoapbenefitsfromlavenderessentialoil,knownforitssoothingproperties,aswellasbeingagentleskinhealer.YouwillneedTomake360g(123⁄4oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•360g(121⁄2oz)clearmeltandpoursoapbase

•2.5ml(½tsp)purplepigmentpowedermadeupwith15ml(1tbsp)waterBotanicals

•4g(1⁄8oz)lavenderessentialoilEquipment

•Siliconemuffintin•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeMeltandPour).Oncethesoapisfullymelted,addtheessentialoilandpurplecolouringadropatatimeuntilyouarehappywiththeshade.Pourthesoapintothemould.

2Oncecold,removefromthemouldandyoursoapisreadytouse.

SummerSwirl

Technique:ColdProcess

Usingcolourantsinsoapmakingcanbefunandyoucanexperimentwithcolourandscenttoproducesomelovelyresults.Thissummersoapfeaturesadelightfulswirlofcerisetobrightenitup.Thefresh,zingyfragranceoflemongrassisupliftingandalsohasusefulantisepticproperties,makingitaperfectsoaptotakeonholidaytosootheitchyskinandcounteractinsectbites.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•1g(1⁄16oz)purplepigmentpowder•24g(1oz)lemongrassessentialoil

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtohold1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess)untiltrace.2Add1g(1⁄16oz)ofpurplepigmentpowderto15ml(1tbsp)ofwater

andmix.3Removeapproximately240ml(81⁄2floz)ofrawsoapfromthepan

intoajug.Mixthepigmentwaterintoittomakeadarkcerisecolour.4Pourthesoapintothemouldandpourthecolouredsoapontopina

randomdesign.

5Usingtheendofaspoon,swirlthecolouraroundandthroughthesoapuntilyouarehappywithyourcolourdesign.6Coverandinsulatethesoapasusual(seeColdProcess).Leaveto

dry,unmouldthesoapandcutasdesired(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

TechniqueTipWhenhandlingpigmentpowders,alwaysuserubberglovesandclearupanyspillsimmediately.Powderleftonsurfaceswillattractmoistureintheairandstainsurfaces.

Gardener’sRescue

Technique:ColdProcess

Afterspendinghourstendingthesoil,gardenersneedahardworkingsoapthatwillremovedirtandprovidesomemuchneededmoisture.Coffeeispackedwithnaturalanti-oxidantsanditsgroundsareexfoliating,givingthissoaptheperfectpunchtoeradicatedirtandrefreshtiredhands.Byaddingazingoflimeoilyouhavetheperfectantidotetoaharddayofpullinguptheweeds.YouwillneedTomake1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•100g(31⁄2oz)hempoil•400ml(14floz)filteredwater

•181g(63⁄8oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•30g(1oz)groundcoffee•26g(1oz)distilledlimeessentialoil

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtohold1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofsoap•Clayholecutter,knifeorapplecorer•Pieceofstrongtwine

•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),makingsurethatthegroundcoffeeandlimeessentialoilsarethoroughlyincorporatedwhenaddedaftertrace.

2Oncethesoapisunmoulded,cutitintochunkybarsusingalargeknifeorcheesecutter.3Useaclayholecutter,knifeorapplecorertomakeaholeinoneend

ofthesoap.Leavetheholetodryforatleast24hours.

4Threadapieceofstrongtwinethroughtheholeandhanguptodryforfourtosixweeks.

SoapStyleHangyourGardener’sRescueontheoutsidetapsoitisreadytousewhenyouneeditmost!

GreenFingersRepairCream

Technique:BasicCream

Gardeningandtherepeatedscrubbingofdirtyhandscanstriptheskinofprotectiveoilsandcausethemtobecomedryandcracked.Itisimportanttorepairthedamageanddosowithouttheuseofharshchemicals.Thisverysimplehandcreamrecipeprovidesnourishmentandprotection,inadditiontotheantisepticandhealingpropertiesoflavender.YouwillneedTomakeapproximately90g(31⁄4oz)ofhandcream

BaseIngredients

•20g(¾oz)almondoil•20g(¾oz)coconutoil•15g(½oz)beeswax•30g(1oz)glycerine

Botanicals

•15dropsoflavenderessentialoilEquipment

•Glassjug•100ml(31⁄2floz)potorjar•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Fillasaucepantoathirdfullwithwaterandbringtotheboilonahob(stove).Placethealmondoil,coconutoilandbeeswaxinaglassjuginsidethesaucepan.Gentlydissolvethemixtureandstironceithasallmelted.

2Addtheglycerinedropbydrop,stirringasyougotocombine.3Takethemixtureofftheheatandaddthelavenderoil,mixingwell.

4Pourthehandcreammixtureintopotsandusewithintwomonths.

HoneyandOatScrub

Technique:ColdProcess

Sometimessoapcontainingessentialorfragranceoilscanbeirritatingtosensitiveskin,soit’sgreattohaveaskin-friendlysoaplikethisinyourrepertoire.Oatsprovideexfoliationandtexturetothesoapandhoneyhasamazingproperties.Notonlyisitantiseptic,butitisalsoahumectant,whichdrawsmoisturefromtheair.Thissoapwillsmellamazingoncemadeandwilloftenbeconfusedwithfudge–don’tbefooled!YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•60g(21⁄4oz)runnyhoney•100g(31⁄2oz)rolledoats

Equipment

•Coffeegrinderorblender•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

TechniqueTipIliketogrindhalfoftheoatsintoafinertextureusingacoffeegrinderorblender.Thisproducesasmootherbar,whilestillretainingsomeoftherusticnatureoftheoats.

1Weighoutthehoneyandrolledoatsandpophalfoftheoatsintoagrinderorblendertomakethemintoafinepowder.Putallofthebotanicalsintoabowl.

2Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess).Beforeaddingthesodiumhydroxideandwatertotheoils,takeafewtablespoonsofwarmoiloutandcombineitwiththehoneyandoatstomakeasloppymixture.3Oncetracehasoccurred,addthehoney,oatsandoil.Combinewell

toensuretheadditionaloiltraces.4Addtoyourchosenmouldandcover(seeColdProcess).Honeycan

overheat,sodonotinsulatetoomuch.Leavetodry,unmouldthesoapandcutasdesired(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

TechniqueTipWhenusinganypowders,claysormilks,youwillneedtoblendthemwithsomeoftheoilsbeforeaddingthemtothetracedsoap.Thispreventslumpsofunmixedbotanicalsinyourfinishedsoap.

addingthemtothetracedsoap.Thispreventslumpsofunmixedbotanicalsinyourfinishedsoap.Removeaportionofthemeltedoilsandblendwiththeclaysorpowderstomakeasloppymixture.Oncetracehasbeenreachedaddthismixturewiththeotherbotanicalsandwhisktoensuretheoilsareincorporatedandtracewell.

HoneyHoneyhasbeenusedinhealingandskincareforcenturiesandiswell-documentedforitsantisepticandhealingproperties.Aswellasbeingsoothingandhealingitisahumectant,whichmeansitdrawsmoisturefromtheair,givinghoneysoapitssupergentlecleaningpower.Itscombinationwithoatsitistheperfectrecipetosoothesensitiveskin.

SoapStyleUsebubblewraptocoverthesoapinsteadofclingfilm(plasticwrap).Itwillleaveadelightfulhoneycombpatternonthesurfaceofthesoap.

Shaver’sSaviour

Technique:ColdProcess

Commercialshavingfoamscanbeharshanddryingtothesensitiveskinoftheface.Theold-fashionedmethodofwetshavingcanbeequallyaseffective,andismuchkinderandgentlertoskin.Thisbasicsoaprecipe,withtheadditionofasmallamountofcastoroil,allowsforalovelylatherandagoodslipontheskin,helpingtherazortoglide.Cutthesoapintoroundswithacookiecutterandplaceinapotforusewithashavingbrush.YouwillneedTomake1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofshavingfoam

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•75g(23⁄4oz)castoroil•390ml(131⁄2floz)filteredwater•177g(6oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•60g(21⁄4oz)bentoniteclay•24g(1oz)calendulaoil•30g(1oz)teatreeessentialoil

Equipment

•Loafmouldtoholdapproximately1.9kg(4lb3oz)ofsoap•Deeproundcookiecutterwithserratededge

•Ceramicpots(largerthanyourcutter)•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),takingapproximately120ml(8tbsp)ofthewarmoilsouttoblendthebentoniteclay,teatreeessentialoilandcalendulaoilintoasloppymixturetoavoidlumps.

2Oncetraceisreached,addthebotanicalsandcombinewell.Pourthesoapintoyourmouldandinsulate(seeColdProcess).

3Oncedry,slicethesoapintobarsoruseacookiecuttertomakeroundsoaps.

4Leavetheroundsoapstodryforfourtosixweeks.Finally,popthesoapintoapotandusewithashavingbrushtocreatealovelylather.

TechniqueTipRecycleapieceofolddrainpipeintoaroundmould.Cutupthesides,greaseit,sealthebottomthenpourthesoapin.Sealthetopandkeepthemoulduprightthenfreezetoreleasethesoapandcutoncedefrosted.

BotanicalBasicsBentoniteclayisagreenvolcanicclaythatisoftenusedinfacemaskstoabsorboils,calendulaoilisnaturallyhealingandsoothesirritation,andteatreeessentialoilhasantisepticandantifungalproperties.Togethertheycombinetomakeagreatshave.

RosebudBundt

Technique:ColdProcess

Beautifullyscentedwithrosegeraniumandablendofessentialoils,andnaturallycolouredwithpinkclay,thistrulyfemininesoapcakeisperfectforahenpartyorbabyshower.Addaflourishofrosebudsandavintagecakestandandyouwillhavearealcrowdpleaser.YouwillneedTomakea2.2kg(4lb9oz)soapcake

BaseIngredients

•850g(1lb14oz)olivepomaceoil•425g(15oz)coconutoil•425g(15oz)palmoil•530ml(18¼floz)filteredwater•240g(83⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•85g(3oz)pinkclay•40g(11⁄2oz)rosegeraniumessentialoil•10g(1⁄4oz)lavenderessentialoil•10g(1⁄4oz)palmerosaessentialoil•5g(1⁄8oz)vetiveressentialoil•Rosebudstodecorate

Equipment

•2.2kg(4lb9oz)decorativesiliconebundtmould

•Roundcaketin•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Greaseyoursiliconebundtmouldandplaceitinsidearoundcakebox,slightlyshorterthantheheightofthemouldandpackedoutunderneathtosupportit.

2Usinggreaseproof(wax)paper,cutoutatemplateofthetopofthemouldandthencutouttheholeinthecentre.Putittooneside.3Weighouttheoilsintothepanandseparateoffenoughliquidoilto

makeasloppy,lump-freemixturewhencombinedwiththepinkclay.

4Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess)untilyouhavereachedalighttrace.Addthepinkclaytothemixture,thenaddtheessentialoils.Whisktocombinethoroughlyandfullytracetheoil.5Pourintothemould,placethepre-cutgreaseproofpaperlidonthe

surfaceofthesoaptheninsulate(seeColdProcess).6Oncethesoaphashardenedandcooled,chillthemouldinthe

freezerforanhourandthenremovethebundtfromthemould.

7Decorateeachslicewithpinkrosebuds.8Leavethesoapcaketodryfor24hoursthencutitintoequalslices

usingalargeknife9Leavethesoapcaketodryforafurtherfourtosixweeks,pullingouttheslicestoallowtheairtoflowaroundthem.

TechniqueTipifyoudon’thaveacaketinoftherightsize,Useacardboardboxtosupportthesoap;siliconemouldscanbefloppyiftheyareusedontheirown.

PeppermintPumice

Technique:ColdProcess

Sometimesyouneedawakeupinthemorningandthisenergizingpeppermintsoapisguaranteedtodojustthat!Withfresh,tinglypeppermint,acaffeinehitofcocoaandabody-polishingdoseofpumicetoinvigorateandexfoliate,allyoursensesaresuretoberevived.Thismintymasterpiecewillprovearealfavouritewiththemeninyourlife.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater

•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•24g(1oz)peppermintessentialoil•30g(1oz)cocoapowder•30g(1oz)groundpumicepowder

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),takingapproximately90–120ml(6–8tbsp)ofthewarmoilsouttoblendthecocoapowder,pumiceandpeppermintoilintoasloppymixturetoavoidlumps.

2Oncetraceisreached,addtheblendedbotanicalsandcombinewell.

3Pourthesoapintoyourmouldandinsulatewell(seeColdProcess).4Leavethesoaptodry.Onceitisunmoulded,cutitintoroughchunks

forareallyrusticfinish(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

PumicePumiceisapopularbotanicalusedwidelyinsoap-makingforitsgentlepolishingability.Itismadefromgroundvolcanicrocksandismoreoftenusedintheformofstonestorubhardskinfromfeet.Theserocksaregroundintoapowderformthatmakesasuperbexfoliantwhenaddedtosoap,gentleenoughtouseonthefaceaswellasthebody.

CocoaPowder

Cocoapowderiswidelyusedinbaking,butitisalsousedeffectivelyincoldprocesssoap-makingasanaturalcolourant.Itisfavouredforitslovelyrich,browncolourandthesubtlescentthatitimpartstothesoap.Matchedwithvanillafragrance,itgivesarichearthyscentandtone.

PinaColadaLayers

Technique:ColdProcess

Ifyoulikepinacolada,you’lllovethisfunandfruitylayeredsoap!Pineappleandcoconutscentsmixtogethertocreateanirresistiblepinacoladafragrancethatwillevokethoughtsoflazyholidayeveningsbesidethebeach.Bysplittingtheingredientsandmakingtwobatches,youcancolourandfragranceeachseparatelyandlayerthemforastrikingeffect.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap

BaseIngredients.Maketwicefortwosmallbatches:

•300g(101⁄2oz)olivepomaceoil•150g(51⁄2oz)coconutoil•150g(51⁄2oz)palmoil•187ml(61⁄2floz)water•84g(3oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•Batch1:

•5ml(1tsp)annattoyellownaturalcolourant•6g(1⁄8oz)pineapplefragrance

•Batch2:

•12g(3⁄8oz)coconutfragrance•30g(1oz)desiccatedcoconut

Equipment

•Deepmouldtoholdapproximately1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

1Carefullymeasureouttheoilsandwaterforthetwobatchesandthebotanicals.

2Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructionstomakebatchone(seeColdProcess).Addthecolourantandpineapplefragranceattrace.3Halffillthemouldandinsulatewell(seeColdProcess).4Makethesecondbatchquickly,addingthecoconutfragranceand

desiccatedcoconutattrace.

5Uncoverthefirstbatchinthemould.Quicklypourthesecondbatchoverthetopofthefirstbatchtofillthemould.Coverthesoapagainandinsulatewell,asbefore.6Unmouldthesoap,cutiteitherintochunksorslicesdependingon

themouldyouareusingandleaveforfourtosixweekstocure(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

TechniqueTipWhenmakingsmallerbatches,weigheverythingoutinadvanceandworkatthehigherendofthetemperaturescaletoavoidheatlossanditsresultantproblems.Ifyoumelttheoilsandmakethesodiumhydroxidemixforthesecondbatchapproximately15minutesafterthefirst,youwillbeabletomakebothbatchesquicklywithoutlosingtoomuchheat.

BotanicalBasicsDesiccatedcoconutactsasagentleexfoliant.Addittoonebatchtogiveyoursoapadistincttexturedside.

Cheat’sCastileSoap

Technique:ColdProcess

TraditionalCastilesoapisusuallymadewithonehundredpercentoliveoil,whichgivesaverylongtraceandtakesaconsiderablylongtimetodryout.Ifyoufeelthatpalmoilisnotaningredientthatyouwishtouseinyoursoapbase,hereisanalternativewithalargepercentageofolivepomaceoilandsomeadditionalbeeswaxandcocoabutter,whichproducesahard,nourishingfragrance-freesoap.YouwillneedTomake2kg(4lb8oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•1kg(2lb4oz)olivepomaceoil•200g(7oz)coconutoil•150g(51⁄2oz)cocoabutter•50g(13⁄4oz)beeswax•400ml(14floz)filteredwater

•184g(61⁄2oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately2kg(4lb8oz)ofsoap•Stamp(Lazercutz,seeSuppliers)(optional)•Stickblender(optional)

•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

TechniqueTipThissoapwilltakealongertimetotrace,soyoumaywishtotrythestickblender(seeAdvancedTechniques).

1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),ensuringthatyoumakethesoapatthehighendofthetemperaturescaletokeepthebeeswaxfromhardeninginthepan.Usethestickblender(seeAdvancedTechniques)ifdesired.2Carefullypourthesoapintoyourmouldandinsulatewell(seeCold

Process).

3Unmouldthesoap,cutitintorusticsquarechunks,stampitifdesired(seeUsingStamps)andleaveitforatleastsixtoeightweekstodry(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

BotanicalBasicsBeeswaxhasahighermeltingpointthanotheroils:workatthehigherendofthetemperaturescaleandkeeptheoilatthattemperature.

TechniqueTipSoapshighinoliveoilcontenttendtobealittlesofter,sotheyneedtobeleftforatleastsixtoeightweekstodry.

CastileSoapCastilesoaporiginatesintheCastileregionofSpain,althoughithasalsobeenmadeinItalyandFrance,soitsoriginsarealittlesketchy.Simplyput,itissoapmadefrompurevegetableoilsratherthantheinferiortallowthatwasusedin

madefrompurevegetableoilsratherthantheinferiortallowthatwasusedinBritainandsomeareasofFrance.Usuallyitismadefrompureoliveoil,whichgivesahardbarofsoapthattakessometimetotraceandharden.Ithasbeenusedasfinesoapforlaundryandtheskinforcenturies.Traditionally,itisahardsquareblockofgreensoapthatwhenusedhasalatherthatdoesnotproducealotofbubblesincomparisontosoapswithblendedoils.

Goats’MilkandLavenderIndulgence

Technique:ColdProcess

Goats’milkispackedfullofvitaminsandisnourishingandsoothingtotheskin.Combinedwiththecalming,antisepticpropertiesandheavenlyfragranceoflavenderessentialoil,youhaveasoapthatisperfectlygentleandsoothing–arealtreatfordry,tiredskin.Thereareseveralwaysofusingmilkinsoapmaking;youcansubstituteitforthewaterintherecipeorsimplyusepowderedgoats’milkattraceasyourbotanical.YouwillneedTomake1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•600g(1lb5oz)olivepomaceoil•300g(101⁄2oz)coconutoil•300g(101⁄2oz)palmoil•375ml(13floz)filteredwater•168g(53⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)

Botanicals

•100g(31⁄2oz)powderedgoats’milk•40g(11⁄2oz)lavenderessentialoil

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately1.8kg(4lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeColdProcess),rememberingtoseparateapproximately120ml(8tbsp)ofwarmoilstoblendthegoats’milkpowderandlavenderoilintoasloppymixturetoavoidlumps.2Attrace,addthebotanicalsand,oncecombined,pourintoyour

mould.

3Insulatelightly(seeColdProcess).Leavetodry,unmouldthesoapandcutasdesired(seeCuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap).

TechniqueTipMilksoapstendtobedarkerincolourduetothesoapburningduringthemakingprocess.Theycanbemadelighterbymakingthesoapatthelowerendofthetemperaturescaleandreducingtheamountofinsulation.Thisisadvisedonceyouhavemasteredthebasicbatch.

Goats’MilkGoats’milkisanidealingredientforsoapmaking.ItisfullofnourishingA,C,E,andsomeBvitamins,alongwithaminoacids,citricacid,enzymes,unsaturatedfattyacidsandzinc.Goats’milksoapalsocontainslacticacid,andalphahydroxyacid,commonlyaddedtoskinrejuvenationproducts.Alphahydroxyacidhelpssloughoffdeadskincells,leavingsmoothnewcellsatthe

hydroxyacidhelpssloughoffdeadskincells,leavingsmoothnewcellsatthesurface.

StrawberrySensations

Technique:MeltandPour

Oneofthegreatestadvantagesofusingmeltandpoursoapbaseistheabilitytomakesmall,shapedsoapsthatwouldbedifficulttoachievewiththecoldprocesstechnique.Thissimpleprojectmakesfruity,strawberry-shapedscentedsoapsthataregreatfunasgiftsandwillreallydelightthesenses.Thepoppyseedsaddtotheircharmbyreplicatingtheseedsinthestrawberries.YouwillneedTomake200g(7oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•200g(7oz)opaquemeltandpoursoapbase•Alcoholforspritzing

Botanicals

•1.25ml(1⁄4tsp)redliquidcolouringmadeupwith15ml(1tbsp)water.•4g(1⁄8oz)strawberryfragrance•3g(1tsp)poppyseeds

Equipment

•Strawberrysoapmould•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoapMakingEssentials)

1Followthebasicsoap-makinginstructions(seeMeltandPour).Oncethesoaphasmeltedaddthefragranceandcolouradropatatimeuntilyoureachthedesiredshade.2Scatterthepoppyseedsintothesoapuntilyouarehappywiththe

appearance.3Pourthesoapintothestrawberrysoapmoulds,usingthewater

techniquetoworkouthowmuchsoapbaseisneededtofillthemoulds(seeColdProcess).Spritzthesoapwithalcoholtoreducebubbles.4Unmouldthesoaponcecold.

BotanicalBasics

BotanicalBasicsPoppyseedsnotonlyaddtothecharmofthissoap,theyalsohaveexfoliantqualitieswhenitisused.

MessyPlay

Whilecoldprocesssoapmakingshouldbelimitedtoadultsforhealthandsafetyreasons,therearemanyprojectsthatwillencouragechildrentolearnhowtomaketheirownsoaps,bathbombsandothernaturalproducts.Thesoapsinthissectionaredesignedforchildrentocreatewiththehelpandsupervisionofanadult.Theyaremessy,fullofnaturalingredientsandsafetomakeforhomeuseorasgifts.Myfive-year-olddaughterlikesnothingbetterthanmakingherownbathbombstorelaxwithinthetub,andsoap-makingpartiesaresomuchfunforolderchildrenwholovetocreateproductsthattheycanbeproudof.

Scrap-savingSoapBalls

Technique:Recycling

Youwillfindwithsoapmakingthatyouwillhavealotofscraps,oddmentsandpieceslyingaroundfromcuttingout.Putthemtogoodusewiththesedelightfulherbalsoapballs,whichcanbedecoratedandputintoprettybagstomakecharminggifts.Childrenlovetomaketheseastheyaresquidgy,messyandinvolvetheuseofcolourfulpowders,petalsandglitter.Adultsshouldgratethesoapforsmallerchildren,butotherwisetheycangetstuckin!YouwillneedTomake300g(10½oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•Approximately300g(10½oz)ofcuredsoapscraps•Oats•Skinsafeglitter(optional)

Botanicals

•Mixedherbs•Lavenderbuds•Rosepetals•Spirulinapowder•Cinnamonpowder

Equipment

•Cheesegrater•Bowl•Eggboxes

1Grateyourscrapsofcuredsoapintoabowl.Separatethegratedsoapinto75g(23⁄4oz)piles.2Addyourchosenbotanicalstothebowls.Squashthegratedsoap

togetherandrollitinyourhandstomakesmooth,compactballsofsoap.3Rollthesoapintoyourchosendecoration;theamountyouneedwill

beyourpersonalpreference!Oncetheballshavebeencoated,leavethemaneggboxtodryoutbeforeuse.

TechniqueTipIftheherbsdonotsticktothesoapballs,wetthesurfaceofeachballbyrollingitinyourwetpalms.

BotanicalBasicsYoucanaddfragrancetotheballsifdesiredwith2.5ml(½tsp)ofessentialoils.Essentialoilsareverypowerfulwhenneatandmustbehandledbyadultswearingsurgicalglovesonly.

SoaponaRope

Technique:Recycling

Itisimportanttorememberthathandmadesoapneedstodryoutbetweenusestoavoidturningintoapileofmush!Asoapdishwithdeepridgesisperfect,oryoucangodowntheold-fashionedrouteofusingscrapstomakesoaponarope.Ilovethese,astheydon’tneedasoapdish,allowtheairtocirculateandaregreatfunforlittlehandstomakeanddecorate.YouwillneedTomake300g(101⁄2oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•Scrapsofcuredsoaporwholebars,approximately300g(101⁄2oz)perballBotanicals

•Driedherbsorpetalsfordecoration(optional)Equipment

•Ropeorheavy-dutystring•Bowl•Cheesegrater/knife•Choppingboard

1Gratethescrapsofcuredsoapintoabowl.2Foldtheropeorstringinhalfandtietheendstogethertoforma

handleandstopper.3Takethegratedsoapandpressitaroundtherope,justabovethe

knot,tomakearoundshape.Keepaddingtoituntilyouarehappywiththefinisheditem.4Decoratethesoapwithherbsordriedpetalsifdesired–itcanbeleft

plainifyouprefer.5Hangthesoapsomewherewarmanddrytohardenforafewweeks

beforeuse.

TechniqueTip

TechniqueTipIfyouhavetroublestickingthesoaptotheropeaddalittlewatertothegratedsoap.

ToySurprise

Technique:MeltandPour

Ifyouhavechildrenthatarereluctanttogoanywherenearabarofsoap,thesefuntoysurprisebarsgivethemarealincentivetowash,wash,wash!Anyage-appropriatetoycanbeembeddedintothebarstoprovideweeksofentertainmentbeforereleasingitstreat.Beingbigfansofglitterandcolour,weareaddingbothtothesoapforevenmoreexcitement!YouwillneedTomake200g(7oz)ofsoap

BaseIngredients

•200g(7oz)clearmeltandpoursoapbase•10–15dropsofbluefoodcolouring•Pinchofskin-safeglitter(availablefromsoapsuppliers–seeSuppliers)•Rubbingalcoholinspraybottle

Botanicals

•4g(1⁄8oz)blueberryfragranceEquipment

•Rectangularsoapmouldorplastictubthatwillholdapproximately200g(7oz)ofsoap–usewatermethod(seeColdProcess)

•Microwaveorhob(stove)•Smalltoy

1Meltthesoapinthemicrowavein30-secondbursts,oronthehob(stove)withadoubleboileratapproximately120°C(250°F),makingsurethatyoudonotoverheatit.2Addthefragranceandskin-safeglitter,thenthefoodcolouringa

dropatatimeuntilyouarehappywiththedepthofthecolour.Stirwell.3Spraythetoywithalcoholandplaceitinthemould.4Pourthesoapoverthetoytofillthemouldandspritzwithalcoholto

disperseanybubbles.

5Leavethesoaptocoolforfourtofivehoursbeforeunmouldingandusing.

BotanicalBasics

BotanicalBasicsUseskin-safeglitterfromareputablesupplierratherthancraftglitter,whichcanbeanirritant.

SoapStyleTomakethisintoasoaponarope,poptheknottedendofaloopedropeinonecornerofthemeltedsoapinthemould.Asthesoapdriesitwillhardenaroundtherope.

FizzyFunBathBombs

Technique:BathBombs

ForyearsIboughtbathbombslikeachildinasweetshop,mystifiedbytheirfizzing,aromaandtheglitterthatcoveredthebathroom,thenonedayImademyownandI’veneverlookedback!Withtheamazingamountoffragrances,botanicalsandingredientsavailableandthesimplelevelofskillinvolved,theyareperfectforkidstomakeasatreatforthemselvesorasuniquehomemadegiftsforothers.YouwillneedQuantityoffinishedbombswilldependonyourchosenmould

BaseIngredients

•450g(1lb)bicarbonateofsoda•225g(8oz)citricacid•Filteredwaterforspritzing

Botanicals

•10dropsofrosegeraniumessentialoil•5dropsoflavenderessentialoil•Handfulofrosepetals

•10g(1⁄4oz)cocoabutterchips

Equipment

•Finemistspraybottle•Siliconemouldsoricecubetrays•Measuringcup

1Combinethecitricacidandbicarbonateofsodawellinthebowltoensureaneven2:1ratiothroughout.2Addthedropsofrosegeraniumandlavenderessentialoilsandstir

well,breakingdownanylumpsthatappear.3Cutthecocoabutterchipsintosmallcrumbsandaddwiththerose

petals,stirringwelltocombine.4Fillthefinemistspraybottlewithwaterandspraythemixturetwoor

threetimes,stirringquicklytocombine.Ifthemixturestartstofizzwhenyousprayit,stirwellandthefizzingshouldstop.Repeatthespraying

andstirringuntilyouhaveacrumblyconsistencyandthemixturestays

togetherwhenyousqueezeitinyourhand.

TechniqueTip

TechniqueTipWhileyoucanpurchasespecialmouldstomakethetraditionalroundbathbombs,theyarereallynotnecessary.Siliconecakemoulds,icecubetraysoreveneggboxesmakeperfectlygoodsubstitutes.

BotanicalBasicsIfthemixturesstartstodryoutwhileyouarefillingthemoulds,sprayitafewmoretimeswithwatertomoistenitagain.Ifthemixturebecomestoowet,addadditionalbicarbonateofsodaandcitricacidinthe2:1ratioandstirwelltocombine.

NaturalLiving

Beforetheinventionofdetergent,soapwasusedtowashthefaceandbody,hair,clothes,dishesandeverythingthatdetergentsareusedfornow.Wearenowbecomingincreasinglyawareofthesuspectingredientsandchemicalsfoundindetergentsandgrowinginconcernforthedamagetheyarecausingus,bothinternallyandtotheworldatlarge.Plasticwasteisfillingtheoceansandlandfill,leachingchemicalsintothewatersystemsandaffectingusall.Thisinspiredmetostartmakingmyown.Onceyouhavethebasiccollectionofingredients,makingyourowncleaningproducts,dishwashertabletsandshampooscostsafractionofthepriceofshop-boughtandyoucanre-usepackagingtoavoidwaste.Inthissection,wewilllookattherangeofproductsthatyoucancreatefromyourhomemadesoapandhowtocreatethem.

SumptuousShampooBar

Technique:ColdProcess

Whileanyhandmadesoapcanbeusedtowashyourhair,therearecertainoils,suchascastoroilandjojobaoil,thatcanbeusedinthebaserecipetohelpwithrinsingandtheconditionofthehairandscalp.Adjusttheexcessfatcontentoftherecipetomakeshampoofordifferenthairtypes(withlessexcessfatforgreasyhairandmorefordryhair).YouwillneedTomake1.3kg(3lb)ofshampoosoap

BaseIngredients

•450g(1lb)olivepomaceoil•200g(7oz)coconutoil•200g(7oz)palmoil•75g(23⁄4oz)castoroil•50g(13/4oz)jojobaoil•260ml(91⁄4floz)filteredwater•130g(43⁄4oz)sodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)(excessfat:7%)

Botanicals

•8g(1⁄4oz)rosemaryessentialoil•16g(1⁄2oz)lavenderessentialoil

Equipment

•Anappropriatemouldtoholdapproximately1.3kg(3lb)ofsoap•Basicequipmentandtools(seeSoap-MakingEssentials)

1Followthebasicsoap-makingrecipe(seeColdProcess).

CastorOilCastoroilismadefromthecastorbeanplantandisrichinfattyacids,aswellasbeingsoothingandreadilyabsorbedbytheskin.Itisusedinshampoobarsbecauseitdrawsmoisturefromtheairandproducesarichconditioninglather.It

becauseitdrawsmoisturefromtheairandproducesarichconditioninglather.Itisoftenusedinhotoiltreatmentswhereitcoatsthehairshaftandsealsinmoisture.

VersatileVinegar

Technique:Recycling

Oneoftheproblemsthatpeoplehadwiththeuseofsoapwasthesoapscumthatformedwithhardwater–usingvinegarinyourproductswillcounteractthis.Vinegarhasbeenusedforcenturiestotreatwounds,asadisinfectantandasaninternalmedicine.

HomemadeOrangeVinegar

Homemadeorangevinegarsmellslovely,issimpletomakeandcanbeusedasbothadishwasherrinseaidandawashingmachineconditioner.Ifyouhaveplentyoforanges,thisrecipeisideal;justaddtheorangehalvestothejarasyouusethemovertime.YouwillneedBaseIngredients

Tomake1–2litres(13⁄4–31⁄2pints)oforangevinegar

•1–2litres(13⁄4–31⁄2pints)ofwhitevinegar•12–15squeezedoranges(usedhalves,aftersqueezing)

Equipment

•Largekilnerjar1Halffillalargekilnerjarwithwhitevinegarandasyouuseyour

oranges,addtheusedhalvestothevinegaruntilthejarisfull.Youmayhavetoaddmorevinegartoensurethattheorangesarecovered.2Leavetoinfuseforthreetofourweeks,strainoffthevinegarand

bottleforusingdilutedinavarietyofrecipes.

ScentedHerbalVinegar

Technique:Recycling

Handmadesoapisanexcellentalternativetoharshshampoo,asitisgreatatbothcleansingandnourishingthehairandscalp.Vinegarisusedasarinseafterwashingwithsoaptosmooththehairshaftandrestoretheacidmantle.Ihaveusedsoapandvinegartowashmyhairformanyyearsandonceyougetusedtotheslightlydifferentfeelitisveryeffective,nottomentionmuchcheaper.Youcanmakeyourownscentedherbalvinegarsforuseasarinseortoaddtocleaningproducts.YouwillneedTomake1litre(13⁄4pints)ofherbalvinegar

BaseIngredients

•1litre(13⁄4pints)cidervinegarBotanicals

•50g(13⁄4oz)lavenderbuds•50g(13⁄4oz)rosepetals

•50g(13⁄4oz)anyotherfreshordriedherbs(optional)

Equipment

•Largekilnerjar1Placethelavenderbuds,rosepetalsoranyotherfreshordriedherbsyouwishtouseintoalargejar,untilitisonethirdfilled.Pouralargebottleofcidervinegartothetopofthejar,overthepetalsorherbs.2Leavethevinegartoinfuseinawarmsunnyplaceforthreeweeks.3Strainofftheherbsandeitherrepeatforastrongerinfusionoruse

straightaway.

UsingYourVinegarRinseOnceyouhavemadeyourvinegarinfusionyoucankeepitinthebathroomforrinsing;simplypouraninchofvinegarintoajugandtopitupwithwarmwater.Forextrafragranceyoucanaddafewdropsofessentialoils,butthevinegarsmellsoondissipates.Pouroveryourhead,massageintoyourhairandscalpforafewminutesandrinseoffafterwards.Keepyoureyesclosedtoavoidgettingvinegarinthemandwatchyourstep,asitcanmakethebathalittleslippery!

LaundryShred

Technique:Recycling

If,likeme,youfindyourselfwithalotofsoaplyingaround,itsoonbecomesasensibleideatouseitinasmanywaysaspossible!Makingyourownwashingpowderisabrilliantwaytosavemoney,reducepackagingandloweryourimpactontheenvironment.Thisisasimplerecipethatcanbemadeinbulkandstoredinadrycupboardreadyforuse.YouwillneedTomake400g(14oz)oflaundryshred

BaseIngredients

•200g(7oz)soap•100g(31⁄2oz)boraxsubstitute•100g(31⁄2oz)washingsoda

Botanicals

•20dropsoflavenderessentialoilEquipment

•Bowl•Cheesegrater•Coffeegrinderorfoodprocessor•Largejarorcontainer

BotanicalBasicsRemovelimescaleorsoapscumandaddmorescenttoyourlaundrybyaddingatablespoonofvinegarandafewdropsofessentialoiltotherinsecycle.

1Gratethesoapintoabowl.Runyourhandsthroughthegratedsoaptobreakitintosmallerpieces.Leavethegratedsoaptodryforafewdaysandgrindinafoodprocessororcoffeegrindertoreducethesizeofthesoappieces.2Addtheotherdryingredientsandthelavenderessentialoil.Stiruntil

thoroughlycombined.

3Decantthelaundryshredintoajarorcontainer.

Multi-purposeCleaningSpray

Technique:Recycling

Technique:Recycling

Manyhouseholdcleaningproductsaremuchharsherthanmosthouseholdspillsneed.Inadditiontheyareexpensive,useenvironmentallyunfriendlypackagingandareoftenmadewithharshchemicals.IhavebeenmakingmyowncleaningproductsfortenyearsandduringthattimeIhavefoundmyownversionstobeequallyaseffectiveandmuchcheaper,evenwhentakingintoaccountmyuseofessentialoils.ThisisasimplerecipethatIuseforgeneralcleaninganditcanbeeasilymodifiedifyouwantsomethingstronger.YouwillneedTofillonespraybottleofcleaningsprayBaseIngredients

•10g(1⁄4oz)finelygratedsoap•5g(1⁄8oz)bicarbonateofsoda(bakingsoda)•Hotfilteredwater

Botanicals

•20dropsofteatreeoilEquipment

•Spraybottle•Cheesegrater•Funnel•Spoon

BotanicalBasicsAlltheingredientsusedinthissprayarefarsafertouseinahouseholdwithchildrenandpetsthanshop-boughtcleaningsprays.

1Addthefinelygratedsoaptothespraybottle.Nextaddthebicarbonateofsoda,teatreeoilandhotwaterthroughafunnel.2Swishthebottlearoundgentlysothatthesoapandbicarbonateof

sodadissolves.Oncedissolved,yoursprayisreadytouse!

TechniqueTipRemembertoshakethebottlebeforeeachuse.

DazzlingDishwasherTablets

Technique:BathBombs

Onedaywhilemakingbathbombs,itoccurredtomethatthesamesimplemethodcouldalsobeusedtomakedishwashertablets.Maketheminbulkandusethemasneeded.Thetabletshavebuilt-indishwashersaltandcitricacid–usedtoremoveresidueandkeepglassesclear–aswellaseffectivecleansingagentsforperfectlycleandisheseverytime.YouwillneedTomake475g(1lb1oz)ofdishwashertablets

BaseIngredients

•25g(1oz)soap,finelygratedanddried•115g(4oz)citricacid•225g(8oz)washingsoda•115g(4oz)Epsomsalts•Filteredwaterforspritzing

Botanicals

•15dropsoflemonessentialoilEquipment

•Cheesegrater•Bowl•Spoon•Siliconeicecubetray1Followthebathbombinstructions(seeFizzyFunBathBombs)usingalloftheaboveingredients.

2Packthemixtureintoicecubetraysandleavefor24hourstodryandharden.3Removethecubesandpopthemintoanairtightjaruntilyouneedto

usethem.

TechniqueTipUseonetabletperloadwitha50:50ratioofOrangeVinegar(seeHomemadeOrangeVinegar)towaterintherinseaidcompartmentifneeded.

CuttingandCuringColdProcessSoap

Onceyouhavemadeyourcoldprocesssoapyouwill,ofcourse,beitchingtouseit!Whilethisiscompletelyunderstandable,youwillgetbetterandsaferresultsbycuttingitandleavingittocureandhardenforfourtosixweeks.

UnmouldingOnceyoursoaphascooledyoucanunwraptheinsulationandremoveitfromthemould.Ifyouhaveusedasiliconeoralinedmould,youcantakeitstraightout.Ifitisshowingsignsofsticking,popitinthefreezerforafewhoursandthenremovethesoap.Ifyouhavepouredthesoapdirectlyintoaplasticmouldyouwillneedtofreezeitforapproximatelyeighthoursbeforeremovingit.Placethesoapongreaseproof(wax)papertodefrost,rememberingtousegloveswhenhandlingit.

handlingit.

CuttingAfteryouhaveunmouldedthesoap,youcancutitreadytodryandcure.Atthisstageitisimportanttouseglovestohandlethesoap,asitmaybecausticinplaces.Youcanusealargeknife,acheesecutterorasoap-cuttingtooltocutyoursoapintobarsreadytodry.Thesooneryoucutthesoap,thebetterfinishyouwillhaveonthebars.

Soapissofterandeasiertocutandmanipulatestraightafterunmouldingandthisisagoodtimetocutoutanyshapesfromthesoapusingcookiecuttersorpersonalizeitusingstamps(seeUsingStamps).Soapthathasbeenleftforweeksuncutwillhaveahardouteredgethathasdriedandthiscancrumblewhencut.

CuringOncethesoaphasbeencut,youwillneedtoleaveitsomewheredryandwarmforittocureforthenextfourtosixweeks.Therearetworeasonsforcuringsoap:firstlythelengthycuretimewillensurethatallsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)isneutralizedandsecondly,thelongerthesoapcures,theharderthebarbecomes.Whilecuring,thewaterwillevaporatefromthedryingsoapanditwillshrinkbyatleasttenpercent,makingitharderandlongerlasting.

Thesoapmustbelaidoutwithgapsbetweenthebarstoallowforfullcirculationoftheair,andturnedeveryfewweekstoallowthesideofthesoapsittingontheshelftohaveaccesstotheair.Damp,coldconditionsarenotgoodforsoapbars,astheywillnothardenandcanoftensweatandbecomeslimytotouch.Itisalsonotadvisabletostoresoapinplastic,asthispreventsitfromdryingout.

PHTestingYoushouldalwayspHtestyoursoaptoensurethatitissafetouse.Todoso,dissolveashavingofsoapintoasmallamountofwateranddipapHstripintothemixture.ThepHshouldbe10orlowerandinmostcaseswillbepH8or9.IfthesoapisabovepH10,leaveitforafewweekstocurethentestitagain.

GellingGenerallyspeaking,ifyoursoapismadeatthehigherendofthetemperaturescaleandinsulatedwell,itwillgothroughareactioncalledgelling.Gellingiswherethesoapheatsup,liquefiesandturnstranslucentfromthecentre,workingitswaytotheoutside.Ifthisisallowedtohappen,itwillspeedupthesaponificationprocessandshortenthecuretime.IfyoursoapgelsallthewaytotheedgesitshouldhaveapHofbelow10whenyouunmouldit.

Sometimesthegelisincompleteandyoucantellthisbythecolourdifferencebetweentheedgesandthecentreofthesoap.Thegelledportionwillbedarkerandyouwillseealightercolouredringaroundtheedges.Tobesafe,itisalwaysadvisabletocurethesoapfortherecommendedfourtosixweeks,asthisiswillensurethatallsoapissaponifiedandishardenoughtouse.WhenyoupHtestyoursoapitmayhaveapHofabove10(usuallythestripwillbepurple).Usuallyifyoure-testinafewweeksthepHwillhavegonedowntounder10asthesaponificationiscompleted.

UsingSoapDishesManypeoplewillhaveboughtahandmadebarofsoapandwonderedwhyitwentsoftanddidnotlastverylongcomparedtocommercialbars.Handmadesoapneedsairaroundittoallowittodryoutbetweenuses;givenareallygoodsoapdishwithplentyofdeepslats,thebarwilllastmuchlongerandretainitshardness.Alternatively,makeanoldfashionedsoaponarope(seeSoaponaRope),whichkeepsaircirculatingallarounditbetweenuses.

DecoratingandPackagingSoap

Therearemanywaystodecorate,personalizeorpackageyoursoapforgifts,weddingfavours,ortosell.Ifyouaresellingyoursoapasabusinessventure,seekadviceonthelegalaspects,astherearestrictrequirementstobemetbeforeyoucansellyoursoap.YouwillfindagreatdealofinspirationonlinefromsitessuchasPinterest,whereothersoapmakerspostimagesofdecoratedorpackagedsoaps.Beverycarefulnottocopyothers,asideasmaybecopyrighted;insteadusetheseimagestogainideasandmakeyourowntrulyuniquecreations.

EmbeddingBotanicalsIfyouwishtodecorateyoursoapwithrosebuds,clovesorotherembeddeditems,suchasshellsorstones,youshoulddosoimmediatelyaftercutting.Intheearlystagesofcuring,thesoapisstillsoftandmalleable,andasitdriestheembeddeditemswillbeheldfastinthedrysoap.

UsingStampsAtthisstage,youcanalsopersonalizeyoursoapwitharubberoracrylicstamp.Generalstampswithmotifsorslogans,suchas‘Handmade’,canbepurchasedfromsoapsupplycompanies.Alternativelyyoucandesignyourownrubberoracrylicstampwithapersonalmessage,initialsorlogos,andhaveitmadeforyouonline(seeSuppliers).

RubberStampsRubberstampsgiveagentle,embossedappearancetothesoapandcanonlybeusedimmediatelyaftercutting,whilethesoapisstillsoft.Tousearubber

usedimmediatelyaftercutting,whilethesoapisstillsoft.Tousearubberstamp,youmustplaceitontheareayouwishtostampandhititwitharubbermallet.Thiscantakesomepractice,butonceachieveditisalovely,professionallook.

AcrylicStampsAcrylicstampsaremuchharderandthesoapwillneedtohavebeenlefttodryforatleasttwoweeksbeforeusingthem.Ifthestampdesignissimple,twoweeksshouldbesufficient;ifitismoredetailedyoumayneedtoleaveitaweekorsolonger.Simplylinethestampupwhereyouwantitandpressitintothesoap.Thiskindofstampleavesadeepembeddedlookandisveryeffectiveforbranding.

PackagingandWrappingOnceyoursoaphashardenedandcured,youcanstarttothinkaboutpackagingandwrappingforgifts.Soapneedstobreathe,soIdonotadvisewrappingitinplasticorcellophaneasthiswillencouragesweating.Giftwrap,greaseproof(wax)paperandfabriccanbeusedtofullyorpartiallywrapthesoapandstillallowittobreathe.Ifindtheeasiestwaytosealthesoapwhenwrappingiswithacoolmeltgluegun,whichwillholdwellanddryquickly.

1.Greaseproof(wax)paper,prettyribbonandahandwrittenmessageonaparceltag:forarustic,homemadelook

2.Brownpaperandribbon:asimpleandelegantfinish

2.Brownpaperandribbon:asimpleandelegantfinish3.Scrapsofvintageorfloralfabric:asimplystylishwrap4.Greaseproofpaper,ribbonandraffia:greatforallowingthecolourofthe

soapandanystampstoshowthrough5.Goldpaper,greentwineandwaxseals:theperfectfestivegiftwrap,

personalizedwithyourownseal6.Simpleribbon:allowsthesoap’sscenttobereleased7.Rosebudsandribbon:pushrosebudsintothetopofthesoapwhilesoftand

addacutecomplementaryribbon8.Giftwrap:perfectforkeepingthescentandlookingpretty9.Mulberrypaper,ribbonandlavendersprig:luxuriouspapersavailablein

manycolours.Tuckasprigoflavender,rosemaryorheatherintotheribbonforaprettyfavour

10.Greaseproof,twineandseal:aclassicfinish

Troubleshooting

Generallybothcoldprocessandmeltandpoursoapmakingisstraightforwardandifyoufollowtheinstructionsyoushouldnothaveanyproblems.Howevereventhebestofushavebatchesthatgowrongandherearefewexamplesofwhatcanhappenandhowtosolveeachproblem.

Problem:SoaponlypartiallygellingornotgellingatallThemajorityofproblemsarisefromheatlossandinadequatestirring;ifyouhavetostirorwhiskforalongtimeyouwillloseheatfromthebatchandthismayresultinthesoappartiallygellingornotgellingatall.Thismayresultincausticsoapforthefirstfewweeksuntilithashadachancetocureandfullysaponify.Ifyoufindthatitistakingyoumorethantwentyminutestoreachtrace,youmaywanttotrythestickblendertechnique(seeAdvancedTechniques)tospeedtheprocessupandreduceheatloss.

Problem:NotraceThisusuallyoccursduetoheatlossorinsufficientstirring.Toavoidthis,makesureyouhaveeverythingreadytogoquicklyandtrythestickblendertechnique(seeAdvancedTechniques)toavoidheatloss.

Problem:WhiteswirlsthroughthesoapOnoccasion,youwillfindwhiteswirlsrunningthroughsectionsofthesoap,oftentowardsthesurface.TheseswirlswillbecausticwhenpHtested,evenwhentherestofthesoaptestsatpH8–9.Thishappenswhensectionsofthesoapwerenottracedwhenpouredintothemould(usuallythesoapfromthebottomofthepanintheedges).Toremedythis,youshouldensurethatthesoapiswell-stirred,especiallyatthebottomofthepan.

Problem:OilonthesurfaceofthesoapIfthereisathinlayerofoilonthesurfaceorsidesofthesoapyoucanwipeitawayandcutandcurethesoapasusual,testingthepH.IfthereisonlyathinlayeritshouldnotaffectthepHofthesoap,astherecipescontainatleastsixpercentexcessoil.Ifthesoaphasseparatedandthereisalargeamountofoil,thesoapmustbediscarded,asitwillbecaustic.Youmayfindmethodsforre-batchingsoaponline,butthisisnotgenerallyadvisedforcausticbatches.

Problem:PocketsofcausticliquidthroughthesoapYoumayfindoncuttingwhatlookslikeareallynicebatchofsoapthatyouhavesmallorlargepocketswithliquidcomingoutofthem.Ifthisliquidiscaustic,youhaveaproblemandthesoapmustbediscarded.IftheliquidispH10orlower,itislikelytobeoilorwater,inwhichcaseyoucangratethesoapandremakeitintoballs.

andremakeitintoballs.

Problem:Soapcracksandcrumbles,despitehavinggoodpHSoapthathasnotgelledisoftencrumblyandwhenpressedtogetherformswhatlookslikeanormalbarofsoap.Thisisusuallyduetoheatloss.Toavoidthis,trythestickblendertechnique(seeAdvanceTechniques)atthehigherendofthetemperaturescale.

Problem:ThinwhitepowderyfilmonsurfaceIfthesoaptestswell,thisisnormallyacosmeticreactionandcanbescrapedawayandusedasnormal.Toavoidthis,coverthesoapwithclingfilm(plasticwrap)orplasticbeforeinsulatingit.

Problem:SoapstartstosetinthepanThisiscalledseizing,wherethesoapthickensexcessivelybeforeyouhavethechancetopouritintothemoulds.Seizinggenerallyhappenswhencertainessentialoilsorfragrances,suchasclove,areused.Youcanpressthesoapintothemouldsanditshouldbefineonceithasbeencut,gelledandcured.Itwilllooklumpyandsomewhatrustic,butitwillbeperfectlyusable.Toavoidthis,youcansubstitutehalfoftheolivepomaceintherecipeforextravirgin,whichwillslowtraceandallowyoumoretime.Remembertoaddthefragranceatalighttrace.

AdvancedTechniques

Onceyouhavemasteredthebasictechniquesinthisbook,youcanstarttomoveontomoreadvancedsoapmaking.Wewillcoveradvancedtechniquesandrecipesinthissection.

UsingaStickBlenderOneofthebiggestproblemswithsoapmakingisheatlossandinsufficientstirring.Ifyoutakemorethantwentyminutestogetyourbatchtotrace,youwilllosealotofheat,whichmayresultinavarietyoftheissuesdescribedintheTroubleshootingsection.Atthisstage,andwhenyoufeelyouhavemasteredthewhiskmethod,youcanswitchtousingastickblender.Stickblendersareusuallyusedforlargerbatcheswhereawhiskisnotanoption,howeverifyouareusingasmallpanontheserecipes,thedepthshouldbesufficienttouseablender.

Stickblenderswillreducethetracingtimetoafewminutes,butwiththatcomesthedistinctpossibilityofovertracingyourbatchandhavingareasthatarenottraced.Thebestmethodistouseshortburstsofaboutfiveseconds,followedbystirringwellwiththeblenderswitchedoff.Thiswillensureyougettracethroughout,withoutgoingtoofar.

EssentialOilsWhenyouareexperimentingwithessentialoilblending,itisadvisabletopicktwoorthreeoilsthatyoulikeandplaceadropofeachonapieceofpaper,ifyouwantmoreofaparticularoil,addadditionaldropsuntilyouhaveablendthatyouenjoy.Notetheratiosofoilsandyoucanextrapolatefromthatforyourbatch.

Asageneralruleforhomesoapmaking,Irecommendamaximumofthreepercentessentialsorfragranceusingthebaseoilsandsodiumhydroxide(causticsoda)asthevolumetoworkoutyourpercentage.Forexample,ifyouhave1.2kg(12lb10½oz)ofbaseoilsand170g(6oz)ofsodiumhydroxide,youwoulduse41g(1½oz)ofasingleessentialoiloracombinationofseveraloilstothatweight.

SuperfattingThemajorityofcoldprocessrecipesinthisbookhaveexcessfatinthebaserecipeatsixpercent.Youcangouptoeightpercentexcessfatinyourbaserecipe–thisiscalledsuperfattingyoursoapanditmakesthesoapmoremoisturizing.Anythingbeyondeightpercentmakesthebartoosoftandisnot

moisturizing.Anythingbeyondeightpercentmakesthebartoosoftandisnotrecommended.

Youcanalsosuperfatuptoeightpercentaftertraceusingpreciousnourishingoilsasasupplement;thishasbeendoneintheBabySoftsoap,wherewehaveaddedanadditional15g(½oz)ofcalendulaoilasasupplement,makingtherecipeeightpercentexcessfatintotal.

Suppliers

UKTheSoapKitchen:www.thesoapkitchen.co.ukforsoapingredientsandequipment,includingmoulds.Etsy:www.etsy.com/uk/shop/mrdoright123forsoapmoulds.FreshSkinBeauty:www.freshskin.co.ukforessentialoils.JaneMeans:www.janemeans.comforribbonsandtags.LazerCutz:www.lazercutz.co.ukforstamps.MasqueWrappingLtd.:www.masqueonline.comforbeautifulpapers.TheMouldsShop:www.themouldsshop.co.ukformoulds.

USABebe’sCollectionwww.bebecollection.comforsoapstampsandotherequipment.BulkApothecary:www.bulkapothecary.comforsoapingredientsandequipment.NelsonLine:www.nelsonline.comforgiftwrap.TheRibbonRetreat:

www.theribbonretreat.comforribbons.

AustraliaAussieSoapSupplies:www.aussiesoapsupplies.com.auforallsoapsupplies.TheWrappingPaperCompanywww.wrapco.com.auforribbonsandgiftwrap.

SouthAfricaFunWithSoap:www.funwithsoap.co.zaforallsoapsupplies.TheRibbonCollection:www.theribboncollection.co.zaforribbonsandgiftwrap.

ResourcesLyecalculatorandrecipes:www.thesage.comOilsandtheirproperties:www.lovinsoap.com/oils-chartHelp,adviceandrecipes:www.soapmakingforum.comAdviceonblendingessentialoils:http://candleandsoap.about.com/od/fragrancesandaromatherapy/ht/htcustblend.htmAcomprehensiveguidetonaturalliving:BetterBasicsfortheHome,AnnieBerthold-Bond,ThreeRiversPress,1999.Soap-makingtutorials:www.soapqueen.comSoap-makingresources:www.soapguild.orgAromatherapysoapresources:www.your-aromatherapy-guide.com

AbouttheAuthor

SarahHarpergrewupwithamotherthatmadeeverythingfromscratchandownedhoardsofbooksonaromatherapyandnaturalliving,sotherewasnosurprisewhenshewentinthatdirectionwithherowncareer.Sarahhasalwaysdabbledinnaturallivingandmadeherownlotions,facemasksandcreamsfromayoungage.Shebecamesensitivetochemicalsinherearlytwentiesandlearnedtomakeallherownnaturalcleaningproductstoavoidexposuretoartificialproducts.

products.Sarahstartedmakingherownsoapnineyearsagoandhasprogressedfrom

experimentinginhersmallkitchenbasedinClovelly,Devon,toowningherownsoapcompany,TheClovellySoapCompany,andcraftstudio,RowanTreeStudio,wheresheteachestheseskillstoothers.Herhusbandandmotherhavebothbecomeexpertsoapcraftersandassistherinhergoaltoconverteveryoneshemeetstonaturalchemical-freeliving.Sheisproudtosaythatherfive-year-olddaughterhasonlyeverhadhersoapandhomemadecreamsonherskinandsheisallthebetterforit!

AcknowledgmentsWritingthisbookhasbeenadreamforsometimeandfinallygettingtheopportunitytocompleteitisinnosmallpartduetothefantasticsupportofmyhusbandwhohastakenovermotheringandhouseholddutieswhileIburiedmyselfinrecipesandideas.

Iwouldliketothankmymotherforalwaysbeingattheendofthephoneandforgivingmemyenthusiasmforallthingsnaturalsincechildhood.MylovelydaughterRowanforgivingmeinspirationtostartwritingandforshowingmehoweasyitistopassthisontothenextgeneration.Ialsowanttothankmyfatherforhelpingoutinthestudioandwithbabysitting,sothatIcanconcentrateonthejobathand,andforbeingagreatcheerleader.

Ihavemetsomanypeopleovertheyearsthatleadinspiringnaturallivesandgivemehopethatwecanturnthetideonthechemicalladenlifestyleswithoutcompromisingonquality.

AbigthankyoutoF&WMediaforgivingmemyfirstrealwritingjobandformakingthisareallyeasyandstress-freeprocess.Finally,thankyoutoMartinatTheSoapKitchenforneverbeingtoobusytoanswermysometimesinanequestionsonallaspectsofsoapmaking!

ADAVID&CHARLESBOOK

©F&WMediaInternational,Ltd2014David&CharlesisanimprintofF&WMediaInternational,LtdBrunelHouse,FordeClose,NewtonAbbot,TQ124PU,UKF&WMediaInternational,LtdisasubsidiaryofF+WMedia,Inc10151CarverRoad,Suite#200,BlueAsh,OH45242,USATextanddesigns©SarahHarper2014

Layoutandphotography©F&WMediaInternational,LTD2014

SarahHarperhasassertedherrighttobeidentifiedasauthorofthisworkinaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct,1988.

eISBN-10:1-4463-6409-7epubeISBN-13:978-1-4463-6409-3epub

Layoutofthisdigitaleditionmayvarydependingonreaderhardwareanddisplaysettings.

Allrightsreserved.NopartofthiseBookmaybereproducedinanyformorbyanyelectronicormechanicalmeansincludinginformationstorageandretrievalsystemswithoutpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher,exceptbyareviewerwhomayquotebriefpassagesinareview.

Readersarepermittedtoreproduceanyofthepatternsordesignsinthisbookfortheirpersonaluseandwithoutthepriorpermissionofthepublisher.Howeverthedesignsinthisbookarecopyrightandmustnotbereproducedforresale.

Theauthorandpublisherhavemadeeveryefforttoensurethatalltheinstructionsinthebookareaccurateandsafe,andthereforecannotacceptliabilityforanyresultinginjury,damageorlosstopersonsorproperty,howeveritmayarise.

Namesofmanufacturersandproductrangesareprovidedfortheinformationofreaders,withnointentiontoinfringecopyrightortrademarks.

AcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibrary.

DavidandCharlespublishhighqualitybooksonawiderangeofsubjects.Formoregreatbookideasvisit:www.stitchcraftcreate.co.uk