TheAMERICANDUCHESS

Guideto18thCenturyDressmaking

HowtoHandSewGeorgianGownsandWearThemwithStyle

LaurenStowellFounderofAmericanDuchess

And

AbbyCox

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Thisbookisdedicatedtoallthenamelessdressmakersandmillinersthroughouthistory.Thankyou.

WhatThisBookIsAllAbout

DearReader,Welcome to thewildworldof eighteenth-centuryhistorical costuming.WithinthesepageswewilltakeyouonadressmakingjourneythroughtheGeorgian era, helping you to learn about, create anddress in fourtypesofgownsandtheiraccessories.OurgoalwithTheAmericanDuchessGuideto18thCenturyDressmakingisto turn our research and experience into an accessible book that willtakeyoufromyourfirstprojecttothatfabulousfinishedensemble.Weencourageyoutouseourinstructionsstitch-for-stitchoras jumping-offpointsforcreatingoutfitsthatrepresentyouruniquestyle.Finally,whenwesetouttowritethisbook,wewantedaboveallelsetoshow how fun and exciting the eighteenth century can be. Though itmightseemintimidating,weknowyoucandoit!Stayfabulousandsewfearlessly!

SoYouWanttoSewanEighteenth-CenturyGown,Eh?

TheAmericanDuchessGuideto18thCenturyDressmakingisdividedintofourbeefychapters,eachrepresentingadifferenttypeofgowncommonintheeighteenthcentury.We’vealsoincludedtheaccompanyingaccessories,ormillinery,neededtocreateafull,accurateensembleforeachgown.Youwillfindcaps,hats,aprons,mitts,kerchiefs,muffsandmore,plusasectionattheendofeachchaptershowinghowtogetfullydressedinallthewonderfulthingsyoujustmade.Ourintentistoillustratehowimportantthecombinationofallofthesepiecesisincreatingthat“steppedoutofaportrait”look.All of the projects in this book are hand sewn with period-correctmethods,whichdiffergreatlyfrommoderntechniques.Scarythoughitmay be, we encourage you to learn and follow the hand-stitchingtechniques. For Georgian gowns, these methods genuinely makeconstruction easier, and the resulting gown and accessories are moreaccurate,attractiveandwell-madethanthosesewnonamachine.Time-consuming?Yes.Worthit?Absolutely.With hand sewing inmind, youwill notice thatweuse thread of twodifferentweights. The choice to use “quilter”weight (#30) thread forour seamsandbodiceconstructionand themorenormalweight (#50)for hems and finer sewing, follows the same decisions made byeighteenth-century dressmakers. Youwill also notice thatwe used silkalmostexclusively,butitisjustasaccuratetousecottonorlinenthreadforyourgownconstruction.We’ve chosen linen for all the gown linings in this book, as it wasubiquitous in its use as lining fabric for women’s gowns during the

eighteenthcentury.Whilewetalkaboutthebenefitsoflinenasatextilehere,usinglinenforyourliningswillhelpprovideastableandauthenticstructureforyourgowns.Finally,wehavenot includedpatternsor instructions formakingyourown stays (corset). Staymaking is a complicated and time-consumingendeavorthatwarrantsevenmorepublicationsthanwhatalreadyexist.Foreverygowninthisbook,wewearadifferentstyleofstay,essentialincreatingthespecificsilhouetteofeachtimeperiod.Thoughwecouldnotincludestaymakinghere,youwillneedtohavestaysbeforemakingyourgown.Justremembertohavefun,beboldandsewwithoutfear!

PATTERNS:PAPERORGRIDDEDORDRAPED?OHMY!Whileweallstrivetobeashistoricallyaccurateaspossible,sometimesmodernityandlifemakeitborderlineimpossible.Forexample,oneofthebiggestissueswitheighteenth-centurydressmakingisfindingthebalancebetweenpaperpatternsanddraping.Mostmodernseamstressesprefertousepaperpatterns,butintheeighteenthcentury,mantuamakerscutandfitthegownsdirectlyontheirclients.Itdoesn’tmeanthatpaperpatternsdidn’texist;tailorsusedpapershapeswhenconstructingmen’sgarments,andmillinersusedthemfordifferentaccessories.Mantuamakersdidnotseemtoworkthisway,though.But that doesn’t always work for us, does it? Sometimes finding thatbalancebetweenaccessibilityandaccuracyisastruggle.Whenwemadethegownsforthisbook,weusedgriddedorscaledpatternsinpublishedbooks or websites for our starting points, noted at the start of eachchapter,andthendrapedtheshapesdirectlyonthemodel.Werealizethatdrapingisanadvanced,complextechniqueinitself,sotohelp find a balance between paper patterns and draping, we haveincluded gridded patterns of the linings used in our gowns. Thisway,youcanseetheshapeofthegownliningyouwillneed,scaleordrapeandadjust themto fityouandbuild thegownuponyour fitted lining.It’simportanttonotethatthesepatternsaredirectcopiesofourlinings,andtheyreflectourdifferentproportions,measurementsandquirks.Youwillneedtomakeadjustmentsforyourownproportions,measurements

andquirks.

FITTINGYOURMOCK-UPWhenstartingwithourliningshapesorapaperpattern,itisessentialtofirstcreateamuslinmock-uptosortoutanymajorfittingissues.Below,wewalkyouthroughhowtofitamock-upusingourgriddedpatterns.Ifyouchoosetouseapreprintedpaperpattern,cutoutthelargersizetofityourmock-up.Thisreferencecanalsobeusedincorrespondencewiththefittingguidesseenthroughoutthebook.

1.Measureyourself(oryourmodel)andcomparethemeasurementstothatoftheliningyouwishtouse.Adjustthelinesaccordinglytobetteraccommodateyourshape.

2.Cutouttheliningshapesinmuslin,adding1to2inches(2.5to5cm)seamallowanceonallsides.Checkgrainlinestomakesuretheycorrespondwiththepattern.

3.Roughlypintheseamstogetherandtrythemock-uponoveralltheunderpinnings.Pinthefrontinplace.

4.Withapencil,markand/oradjustwherethemuslinbodiceistooshortortoolong,iftheshoulderstrapsaretoolooseorthenecklinegapesopen,ifthearmscyesaretoolowandopen,andifthefitistoolooseortootight.RefertotheTroubleshootingGuide(here)forcommonfittingwrinklesandrumples.

5.Smooththebodice,pinchinguptheseamsandrepinningtoadjustthefit.Ifneeded,clipintothewaistedge,pullingdownonthebodicewhilefoldingtheexcessupward,andpin.Smooththeexcesstowardthecenterfrontandcenterbackseams,repinningandmarkingasyougo.

6.Withapencil,sketchalongthewaistfold,thebaseofalltheseamsonbothsidesandtheshoulderstraps.Alsotakethisopportunitytodrawthenecklinejustasyouwantit.

7.Needtoextendorfillinabit?Ifthewaististooshort,shoulderstrapstoobroadoryourarmscyetoolowandwide,pinascrapofmuslinin

andredrawthelines.Besurenottoremovethesepinswhentakingthemuslinmock-upoffthebody.

8.Checktheplacementofthesideseamlineonthebodyandredrawthenewseamlineinthecorrectplaceifneeded.Referenceoriginalgowns,butdon’tbecomeparalyzedbyexactplacement—goforthegeneralarea.Hatchmarkacrossthisnewlinetocreatematchpoints.Sideseamsareplacedfarthertothebackthanmodernplacement.Adeeper,curviersideseamhelpsflatterthewearerandcreatesaprettierline.

9.Unpinthefrontclosureofthemock-upandremovefromthebody.Double-checkthatyournewseamlines,waistedge,armscyeandnecklineareadequatelymarked,thenunpinallthepiecesandlayflat.

10.Youwillseequiteafewscratchylines.TruetheselinesupwitharulerandFrenchcurve.Cutallthepiecesoutontheseamandedgelines.

11.Thisisnowyournewpattern.Ifyoulike,traceitontopaperandaddseamallowance.You’renowreadytocut!

Armscyesintheeighteenthcenturyweremuchhigherthantoday.Thoughitmaybeataduncomfortableduringfittings,itisbettertohaveatoo-tightarmscyethatyouwillcutoutafteryoursleevesaresetthanhavinganarmscyethatistoobigandneedstobepieced.

Jacket(Detail),late18thcentury,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,2010.151

Dress(BackDetail),1775–85,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,2009.300.1340

PIECINGISPERIOD,PERIODIntheeighteenthcentury,fabricwasexpensiveandlaborwascheap.Itwasstandardpracticeforoldgownstobedeconstructedandmadeanew.Economicalconstructionwasessential,anditwasthegoalof

earlymantuamakerstoavoidcuttingthefabricwheneverpossible,favoringtucks,pleatsandfoldstopreservewholewidthsandlengths.Whilethiscuttingstyleevolvesandchangesthroughtheeighteenthcentury,thedesiretobeaseconomicalaspossiblewithfabricdoesnot.Almost every original eighteenth-century gown we have studied inmuseums features piecing, whether it’s from remaking, mistakes orfabric conservation. Piecing can be found in every component of aneighteenth-century gown: sleeves, bodices, skirts and even linings. Theeighteenth-century mantua maker did not view having to piece as amistake,butratherasthebestwaytomakethemostofthetextileandmeet the customer’s needs. In turn, it does not appear that customerscared if their gowns had been pieced; it was just a normal part ofclothingmanufacture.Soifyouenduprunningshortonfabricormakeacuttingmistake—it’sOK!Justpiece inwhat’smissingandappreciatetheairofauthenticitythatpiecinglendstoyourgarment.The first step is tosaveyour fabricscraps.Whenpiecing, try tomatchthegrainlineandanynapordirectionalelements,particularlywithshotsilkswhere thewarp andweft are twodifferent colors. Try to patternmatch ifyoucan,butevenGeorgianmantuamakers sometimesdidn’t.Pieces can be prick stitched, applique stitched or sewn right sidestogether.Throughouttheprojectsinthisbook,wehavehadtopiecepartsofthegowns, whether to extend a sleeve head, lengthen a train, let out abodiceorbuildenoughyardageforapetticoat.Cleverpiecingcantakea“stuck” project to a finished one and adds a twist of Georgianauthenticitythatmakesyourgownnotonlymoreaccuratebutuniquetoyou.

CHAPTERONE

HistoricStitchesandHowtoSewThem

RUNNINGSTITCHWorkingfromrighttoleft,weavetheneedleupanddownthroughalllayers.Whenyou’reusingrunningstitchesforhemmingoraseam,makesurethatthevisiblestitchisveryfine.Bastingstitchesshouldbelongandeven.

BACKSTITCHWorkingrighttoleft,anchortheknotonthewrongsideofthefabric,bringingtheneedleupthroughalllayers.Travelacoupleofthreadstotherightofwhereyourneedlecamethrough,pushtheneedlethroughallthelayers,andbringitbackupequidistantfromthefirstpuncture.Bringtheneedletothatsamethreadentrypoint,pushingdownthroughalllayers,travelingequidistanttotheleft,bringtheneedleupthrough

andrepeat.Thisisthestrongeststitch,idealforseams.

RUNNINGBACKSTITCHUsingtheinstructionsabove,combinetherunningandbackstitch.Stitchtwoorthreerunningstitchesandthenabackstitchforstrength.Thisstitchiscommonlyusedinskirtandpetticoatseams.

PRICKSTITCHWorkingfromrighttoleft,anchortheknotonthewrongsideofthefabric,andcomestraightupthroughalllayers.Bringyourneedledown1or2threadstotheright,makingsuretheneedlegoesthroughallthelayers.Bringtheneedleupequidistantfromhowfaryouspacedthestitchesfromtheseamedge.Forexample,ifyou’resewing¼inch(6mm)infromthefoldededge,spaceyourstitches¼inch(6mm)apart.Thiscarefulandvisiblespacedbackstitchisusedmostoftenonsideseams.

HEMSTITCHWITHBASTINGWorkinglefttoright,turnuphalfoftheseamallowanceontheedgeofyourfabricandbastewithlongrunningstitches.Turnuptheremainingseamallowanceagaintoencasetherawedge.Tohemstitch,buryyourknotbetweenthefoldandfabric,bringingtheneedleouttowardyou.Travelalittlebittotheleftandpasstheneedlethroughtheouterfabric,bringingitbackinthroughthefoldedlayers.Theresultingstitchisvisibleontheoutsideofthegarment,andshouldbesmallandfine.

NARROWHEMWorkinglefttoright,turnupanarrowseamallowance(⅛to¼inch[3to6mm])ontheedgeofyourfabricandbastewithlongrunningstitches.Thenfoldthisedgeupagaininhalfsothefinishedhemisbetween⅛and⅛inch(1to3mm)wide.Hemstitchfromrighttoleftinthesametechniqueexplainedabove.

ROLLEDHEMKeepingtensionwithyourdominanthand,rolltherawedgebackand

forthbetweenyourfingersuntiltheedgetightlyrollsoveritselfatleasttwice.Holdtherollededgebetweenyourfingerstokeepitinplaceasyouhemstitchitalltogether.Itwilltakeabitoftimebeforeitstartstolooksmallandeven.Somethinglickingyourfingerscanhelpmakethisprocesseasier.

EDGESTITCH/EDGEHEMSTITCHThisstitchiscommonlyusedtojointhefashionfabricandthelining.Beforestitching,turnintheseamallowancesonbothpiecesandbaste.Withthetwopiecesplacedwrongsidestogether,offsetthefashionfabrictobeslightlyabovetheliningfabricandpinintoplace.Withtheliningsidefacingyou,buryyourknotbetweenthetwolayerswiththeneedlecomingouttowardyouthroughthelining.Travelasmallamounttotheleftandmakeasmallstitchcatchingalllayers,andbringtheneedlebacktowardyou.Repeat.Thisstitchisvisibleontheoutsideandshouldbesmall.

APPLIQUESTITCHThisisperformedjustlikethehemstitchexceptthatthetravelandcatchesareinreverse.Thesmallstitchistheoneyousee,andyouwilltravelontheunderside.Thisisusedwhenyou’resewingfromtherightsideofthefabric.

WHIPSTITCHThisstitchiscommonlyusedoveranedge,eitherraworfinished.Placethetwopiecesoffabricrightsidestogetherandpin.Workingrighttoleft,workwiththeneedlepointingtowardyou,passingthroughalllayers.Bringtheneedlebackaroundtothefarlayer,passingthroughthelayerswiththeneedlefacingyou.Repeat.

WHIPGATHERWorkingrighttoleft,whipovertheedgeofthefabricadetermineddistance.Thenpullthethreadgatheringupthefabrictothedesiredlength,andknotthethread(butdonotcut)beforemovingontothenextsection.

HERRINGBONESTITCHFirst,youwillworkfromlefttoright.Passyourneedlethroughthefabricacoupleofthreadstowardtheleft.Bringtheneedleupandthenangleitdownandtotheright.Bringtheneedledownandtravelacoupleofthreadstotheleft,bringingtheneedlebackup.Repeat.

STROKEDGATHERSThistechniqueisusedforyourapronsand1790sensemble.Itconsistsofthreeevenlyspacedandstitchedrunningstitchesthatarethengathereduptofitthedesiredspace.Thegathersarethencarefullystitchedwithahemorwhipstitch,makingsurethatyoucatcheverybumpinthegathers.

FELLINGThistechniquecleanlyjoinstwopiecesoffabricinanencasedseam.Withrightsidestogether,offsetoneedgeby¼inch(6mm)andrunningstitchtojoin.Opentheseamoutflatwiththeseamallowancefacingup.Foldupthelongeredgeoftheseamallowanceovertheshorterrawedgeby¼inch(6mm),fingerpress,thenfoldoveragainalongtheseamline.Runningstitchorhemstitchthefolded,cleanedgedown,thenpresstheseamflat.

THEENGLISHSTITCHThisstitch/seamingtechniqueisprobablyoneoftheweirdestthingsyouwillcomeacrossinthisbook.However,itisextremelycommonandusefulineighteenth-centurydressmaking,perfectforseamingtogethertheliningandfashionfabricofbodiceseamsinonestitchinsteadoftwo.Thoughthenameofthisstitchhaspreviouslybeenshroudedinmystery,PernillaRasmussenfoundevidenceofitbeingknownasthe“EnglishStitch”inthe1824tailoringbookbyF.Heyder.1Whiletherearemanyplacesthisseamingtechniquecouldbeuseful,itismostrepresentedinoriginalbodicesofItaliangowns,butalsosometimesmakesanappearanceinsacquesandotherextantbodicestoo.Workingrighttoleft,youwillhavethetwopiecesyouareseamingwithall theiredgesbasted intoplace facing right side to right side.Makeaquickstitchontheliningfabricclosesttoyourperson,buryingtheknotbetween the fashion fabric and the lining fabric. Thenpass theneedlethroughthefashionfabricsandliningtotheotherside.Bringtheneedleupandpointitbackatyou,passingthroughbothfashionfabricsandtheliningon thesideclosest toyou(see illustration1).Repeat.Keepyourstitchesverysmalland tighthere,about12stitchesper inch(2.5cm).Youshouldhaveaneat,finishedseamwhenopenedflat(seeillustration2).

MANTUAMAKER’SSEAMThisseamingtechniqueisnotasscaryasyoumightthink.Infact,it’sdeceptivelyeasy.It’sknownasamantuamaker’sseamormantuamaker’shemming,anditdominateswomen’sclothinginthistimeperiodandevenintothenineteenthcentury.AccordingtoTheWorkwoman’s

Guidefrom1838,

“Thisisoftenusedinsteadofsewing,forbagsandsleevesthathavenolinings,orskirtsofpetticoats&c.,andtheworkispreparedasfollows.Laytherawedgesofonepiecealittlebelowthatoftheother,thenturntheupperedgeoverthelower,twice,asinhemming,andfellitsecurelydown.”2

Themantuamaker’sseamisaningenious,efficientwaytoconnectandencase raw edges on skirt panels in gowns, andwe evenuse it in our1790sreticules.ThoughsimilartoamodernFrenchseamorfelledseam,themantuamaker’sseamisfast,easyandperiodcorrect.Towork amantuamaker’s seam, startwith two layers of fabric, rightsidetorightside.Offsetthebottomfabricby⅛to¼inch(3to6mm),dependingonhowwideyouneedthisseamtobe.Foldthebottomfabricupandoverthetopfabriconceandbasteintoplacesewingfromrighttoleft.Next,foldthebasteedgeuponcemoreandhemstitchthroughalllayers.When you’re finished, you will open up this seam and have acleanfinishontheoutsideandanencasedrawedgeontheinterior.

CHAPTERTWO

TheEnglishGown,1740s

BASEDONDIAGRAMXIVFROMCUTOFWOMEN’SCLOTHINGBYNORAHWAUGH1

Thefirstgowninourbookisrootedinoneofthemostfundamentalmomentsinfashionandwomen’shistory.Thisgown,whatwewillrefertoasthe“Englishgown,”isbasedonthegroundbreakingmantua,ormanteaux,gown.Themantuaallowedwomenthechancetostepoutoftheshadowofmaletailorsandcreatetheirowntrade,usheringinaneweraoffashionanddressmakingwith

thenewcentury.2

Amoreinformalstyleofgownwornbywomenofallsocialclasses,themantuacameintofashionduringthelastquarteroftheseventeenthcenturyanddevelopedovertimeintowhatwascalledthe“night-gown,”“gown”and/or“mantua.”WhilethisgownmayhavebeencalledRobeal’AnglaiseinFrench,thistermisuncommonineighteenth-centuryEnglishandAmericansources.Forthesakeofclarity,wewillsimplycallittheEnglishgown.

Thegownwere-createinthischapterisrepresentativeoftheperiodfrom1740to1750.Theclose-fittingpleatedback,separatestomacherfront,robingscut-in-oneandlargefullsleevesareallstylehallmarksofthisdecade.Overtime,thistypeofgownchanges,exhibitingsmallerbackpleats,aclosedfrontandnarrowersleeves,beforefallingoutoffashioninthe1780s.

ARake’sProgress,Plate4,WilliamHogarth,June25,1735,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,32.35(31)

Robeàl’Anglaise(Back),1770–75,BrooklynMuseumCostumeCollectionatTheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2009.300.648

OURCHOICESFORTHEENGLISHGOWNTo achieve the appropriate silhouette of the 1740s, the correctundergarmentsareessential.Shiftshadlargefullsleevestofilloutanddecorate the gown sleeves. Stays were often fully boned, straight andlonginthetorso.Thesepiecesmustcomefirst—weknow,youwanttojumprightintomakingthedress,butdon’tskipyourunderpinnings!Whilewedonotprovideinstructionsforshiftsorstaysinthisbook,youwill find in this chapter the instructions for making a basic under-petticoat,astandardunderpinningthatmaybeusedforallofyourothergownprojectsbeforethe1790s.It’sagoodstarterprojectandwillserveyouwell.For thisproject,we’vechosen toportrayaworkingwoman’sensembleand so have styled our gownwithout a hoop or false rump.However,thisverysamedesignmadeinsilk,fittedoverhoops(seehereforpockethoops),wouldcreateafashionablearistocraticlook.Finally, this gown ismade from amedium-weight blueworstedwool.While wool is a great fiber for women’s gowns, all the other historicfibersareopen toyou: learnabout silk (here), linen (here)andcotton(here).

UNFOURREAU?UNFOR-NO!Ifyou’vebeenstudyingeighteenth-centurydress,you’veundoubtedlyseentheterm“enfourreau”usedtodescribewhatwearecallingtheEnglishgown.We’renotsurewheretheusageofthistermtodescribethepleatscutinonewiththeskirtcamefrom,butitdoesn’tappeartocomefromtheeighteenthcentury.Whenlookingatprimarysources,theterm“unfourreau”unequivocallymeans“afrock”forachild.3,4Sofarinourresearch,onlyoneeighteenth-centurydictionarytranslates“unfour[r]eau”as“afrockforawomanorchild”ratherthanexclusivelyforachild.5WhileyoumightfindoriginalFrenchfashionplatesoccasionallylabelwomen’sandgirls’dresses“enfourreau,”orjust“fourreau,”

thedesignofthesegownsasrelatestobackpleatingisinconclusive.However,wedoknowfromsurvivingexamplesandimagesthatchildren’sfrockswerebackfasteningintheeighteenthcentury.Sowhileassociating“fourreau”withthebackiscorrect,primarysourceslendmoreevidencetowarditbeingaback-fastening-stylegownpredominantlywornbychildrenthatmayhavealsoinfluencedwomen’sdress.

ANODETOWOOLWool,commonlycalled“stuff” in theeighteenthcentury,wasarguablythemostcommonfibertypewornbywomenbelowacertainsocialclassin the eighteenth century.6 While spun and woven wools, such asworsteds,wereextremelycommon, therewasahugevarietyofwovenwools and wool blends used for clothing: glazed calamanco, camlet,bombazine,baize,cassimere, linsey-woolseyandmore.7Hereareafewgreatreasonswhywestronglyrecommendadress-weightworstedwoolfortheEnglish,Italianandeventhe1790sgowns:

1.Woolisn’tactuallythathot…unlessitneedstobe.Woolnaturallyreactstotheenvironmenttoregulateyourbodytemperature.Woolwillkeepadrylayerclosetotheskinwhilestillbeingabletowithstandcold,moistclimates,andwhenit’shot,itwillwickawayyourperspiration.8

2.Sincewoolissogoodatwickingawaymoisture,itmakesforanantimicrobial,antibacterialfabric.It’shardtomakeitstinkyandgross.9

3.Woolisamazingtoworkwith.Itdoesn’twrinkleorshowfittingfaultsinthesamewaythatsilk,linenorcottondoes.It’saveryforgivingfabrictoworkwith,resultinginabetter-lookinggownwithouttheheartacheoffightingwithaslipperysilkorwigglylinen.

4.Woolishard-wearinganddurable.Thisgownwilllastyoualongtime,andyou’llgetyourmoney’sworth.

5.Wooldoesn’tcombustintoflame—itsmolders.Ifyouareworking

nearanopenfire,woolisyoursafesttextilechoice.

6.Awoolgowniseasytodressupordressdownwithmillinery.Crispwhiteaccessoriesincottonorsilkwillgofarinmakinga“plainol’woolgown”lookveryfashionable.Alternatively,thesamewoolgownpairedwithacheckedapronandprintedkerchiefdoeswellforcommonimpressionsanddirtywork.

7.Wearingwoolcouldbeverypatriotic.WoolfabricswereacornerstoneofEnglishmanufacturing,anditwasimperativetosupportone’shomeindustry.10

Workingwithwoolisn’twithoutchallenges,butitdoescreateamazingtextilesthataregreattosewwith.Weespeciallyrecommendwooltobeginninghistoricalcostumersasanexcellentchoiceforthatfirstgown.

1740sUndiesBasicUnder-Petticoat

This petticoat is an example of the most basic and commonunderpinning, second only to the shift. This under-petticoat can andshouldbewornwiththeEnglishGown(here),Sacque(here)andItalianGown(here).Makingitoutofamatelassécottonwillhelpgiveitextrabody and loftinesswithout theweight. You can alsomake it out of asturdy linen, cotton, or wool flannel. This petticoat should be on the

shorter side; the hem should be somewhere between below your kneeandlowercalf.Under-petticoatsdon’thavetobeasfullasouterpetticoats.Thefullnessof thepetticoatdependsonyoursize.Youwantenoughroomforyourlegstomovefreely.Agoodruleofthumbistoaimforabout100inches(2.5meters).For the under-petticoat, we use just one seam to close the skirt.Dependingonyourfabricwidth,youmayneedtojoinpanelstogethertoachieve the needed hem circumference. Also assess the seamingtechnique needed according to your fabric edges. If they are selvageedges, carry on with assembly steps 4 through 6; if they are raw cutedges,youwillwanttousethemantuamaker’sseam(here).

MATERIALS•2–3yards(2–3m)ofcottonmatelassé,sturdylinenorwoolflannel•Heavy-weightsewingthread(35/2linenor#30silk)•1.5–2yards(1.5–2m)¾–1”(1.9–2.5cm)-widelinenorcottontape

ASSEMBLY1.Useasofttapemeasureatyournaturalwaistpoint(usuallyaroundyourbellybutton,justbelowyourribs)andnotethenumber.Measuredowntheapproximatehemlength(waisttosomewherebelowyourkneeandabovelowercalf).

2.Cutoutthefabric,measuringthelengthofthewaisttocalfonthestraightofthegrainandcuttingselvagetoselvage.

3.Pinonepetticoatseamrightsidestogether,leaving10inches(25.5cm)freeatthetopfortheopening.Stitchtheseamusingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseam(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])forrawcutedges(here).

4.Baste,thenhemtheedgesoftheopening(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

5.Withthepetticoatopenedoutflat,hemat½-inch(1.2-cm)wide(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

6.Findthecenterofthefrontpanelandmark.

7.Timetopleat.Onthefront,makeonelargeboxpleatatthecenterfront,about3to6inches(7to15cm)wideandbetween1to3inches(2.5to7.6cm)deep.Thenknifepleateachsideofthefrontpetticoatpaneltowardtheback,checkingthecircumferenceagainstyourwaistmeasurement.Pleatingwasnotanexactscienceintheeighteenthcentury,anditdoesn’tneedtobetoday.Justpleattofitwith1-to2-inch(2.5-to5-cm)-widepleatsonthevisibleside;theycanbeasdeepasneededontheunderside.Don’tworryiftheyarenotperfect.

8.Backstitchthepleatsdownabout¼to½inch(6mmto1cm)fromtheedge,stitchingthroughalllayerstosecure(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

9.Findthecenterpointofyourwaisttape,pintothecenterfrontofyourpetticoat.Thenworkingfromthecenterfrontaroundtotheback,pinthewaisttapehalfwayovertherawedgeofthepetticoat,leavingtheotherhalftofoldoverandbindtheedge.

10.Finelyhemstitchthewaisttapedownontherightsideofthefabric(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

11.Foldthewaisttapeovertherawedgeandfinelyhemstitchitintoplace.

12.Oncebothsidesareattached,whipthetapetogetheratbothendstokeepitsecure.

Done!

1740sTheEnglishGownPetticoat

Thispetticoatismadetogowiththe1740sEnglishgown.Constructedinatypicaleighteenth-centuryway,thepetticoatisopenatbothsidestoallowthewearertoreachherpocketsandistiedatthefrontandback.Fortheportrayalofcommondressinthisperiod,neitherthepetticoatwaistnorhemisadjustedoveranyadditionalunderpinningssuchasafalserumporhoop.Thelengthofapetticoatdependsonwhatis

fashionablefortheperiodandwhatthewomanwillbedoing.Forexample,ifthewomanwillbedoingmorephysicallabor,shewouldwantherpetticoathemtobeabitabovetheankletopreventtripping.Finally,plainpetticoatslikethiswerewornthroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury,soyoucanwearthissamepetticoatwithalatergownaslongasthegowndoesn’tneedtobewornoverahooporfalserump.

MATERIALS•2–3yards(2–3m)offabric,enoughtohaveacircumferenceof108–120inches(2.7–3m)(Note:Thisexampleuses60”(1.5-m)-widefabricwithapanelforthefrontandonefortheback.Ifyouareusingnarrowerfabric,youmightneedtoaddextrapanelstoyourpetticoat.)

•Silkthread(#30forconstructionand#50forhemming)•2.5–4yards(2.5–4m)of1”(2.5-cm)-widelinenorcottontape

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutyourpetticoataccordingtoyourdesiredlengthandfullness.For60-inch(1.5-m)-widefabric,twopanelsarerequired—frontandback—fora120-inch(3-m)hem.

2.Withrightsidestogether,selvage-to-selvage,pinonesideseam.Leaveopen10inches(25.5cm)fromthetopforthepocketslit.

3.Forthepocketslit,turnbacktheedgesoftheopeningandhemstitch.Forselvageedges,onlyturningbackoncewillsuffice;forrawedges,turndoubletoenclose.Press.

4.Startingfromthehem,sewthesideseamwitharunningbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Stopatthebottomofthepocketslit.Pressopentheseam.

5.Eachsideofthepetticoatwillbepleatedtohalfthewaistmeasurement.Forexample,thewaistbandofourpetticoatwillbepleatedtofita28-inch(71-cm)waist.Therefore,thefrontandbackeachneedtobepleatedto14inches(35cm),respectively.Thesizeanddepthoftheknifepleatswillbeinpartdeterminedbyyoursizeandtheamountoffabricinthepetticoat.Thereisnoneedforthepleatstobeeven—feelyourwaythrough,strivingforauniformlookontheexterior,butnotworryingabouttheinteriormeasurementsofeachpleat.Checkagainstyourmeasuringtaperegularlyandadjustthepleatsasneeded.Thismighttakeacoupleoftries,andthat’sOK.You’llgetthere.

6.Foldthefrontpanelofthepetticoatinhalftofindthecenterfront.Markwithapin.

7.Starting3inches(7cm)fromthecentermark,begintoknifepleatinthedirectionofthesideseams.Thiswillformaboxpleatatthecenterfrontthatis6inches(15cm)wide.

8.Backstitchthepleatsinplace,closetotheedge(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

9.Foldthebackpanelofthepetticoatinhalftofindthecenterback.Markwithapin.

10.Begintopleattowardthecenterback,forminganinvertedboxpleat.Continuetoknifepleatinthedirectionofthecenterback.

11.Backstitchthepleatsinplace,closetotheedge.12.Withrightsidestogether,laythefrontandbackpanelstogetherattheremainingsideseam.Pin,leavingopen10inches(25.5cm)fromthetopforthepocketslit.

13.Forthepocketslit,turnbacktheedgesoftheopeningandhemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Forselvageedges,onlyturningbackoncewillsuffice;forrawedges,turndoubletoenclose.Press.

14.Startingfromthehem,sewthesideseamwitharunningbackstitch.Stopatthebottomofthepocketslit(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Pressopentheseam.

15.Cuttwolengthsoflinentapeapproximatelydoubleyourtotalwaistcircumference.Foldeachtapeinhalftomarkthecenterpoints.Matchthesecenterpointstothecenterpointsofeachpetticoatpanel.Pinalongthewaistedgewiththetape½inch(1.2cm)deep,leaving½inch(1.2cm)freetofoldovertotheinsidelater.Appliquestitchtheedgeofthetapeinplace,makingsuretocatchallthelayers(12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

16.Foldthetapetotheinside,pin,andhemstitchinplace.Securewithseveralstrongstitchesateachsideseam.Theremainingtapeformstheties.

17.Hemthepetticoateither¼inchor½inchwide(8to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

Done!

1740sTheEnglishGownStomacher

WeknowyouwanttojumprightintomakingyourEnglishGown(here),but just as with the petticoat, you need one more piece first: thestomacher.Inthe1740s,stomacherscouldbesimpleorverydecorativeforhigher-classensembles.Aplainself-fabricorhand-embroideredlinendesignworksatreatforacommonwoman’sgown,whilemetalliclace,embroideryorberibbonedstomachersareenvogue for the fashionablelady.

MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)offabric•½yard(0.5m)ofstiffenedlinenbuckram•Silkthread#30

ASSEMBLY1.Measurethelengthandwidthneededforthestomacher,orseepatternhere.Thelengthshouldbefromthetopedgeofthestaystojustbelowthe“points”ofthebodicefrontedges.Thewidthshouldbeacrossthebustandacrossthewaistwithadditionalwidthaddedforthegownfrontedgestooverlap.Add½to¾inch(1.2to2cm)seamallowance.

2.Cutonelayeroffashionfabric,onelayeroflinenandonelayeroflinenbuckram.Tomakelinenbuckram,liberallypaintmedium-weightlinenwithgumtragacanthandallowtodryinthesun.You’llwanttodothisoutside—gumtragacanthstinks.

3.Cutofftheseamallowanceofthelinenandlinenbuckrampiecesand

pinorbastebothlayerstogether.

4.Turnuphalfoftheseamallowanceonthefashionfabricandbaste.

5.Centerthelinenpiecesonthefashionfabricwithevenseamallowanceonalledges.Pintohold.

6.Workthesidesandbottomcurveofthestomacherfirst.Foldintheremainingseamallowance,coveringtherawedgeofthelinenbuckram.Atthebottomcurve,withalooserunningstitch,gatherandeasethefashionfabricaroundthebottom.Pinasyougo,thenhemstitchinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),catchingjustthelinenbuckram.

7.Foldoverthetopedgeandhemstitchinplace.Besuretoworkthestomacherabsolutelyflat,beingcarefulnottopullorcreatetensioninthefashionfabricinanyway.

8.Optional:Stitchasmalltabofcottonorlinentapetothesidesofthestomacheratthetop.Thishelpswithpinningthestomachertothestayswhendressing.

1740sTheEnglishGown

TobegintheEnglishgown,wewilldemonstratehowtopattern,cutandassemble robings that are all-in-one with the body. This techniqueproducesthedoublerobingsseenin1740sportraitsandmakesuseofahidden dart to manipulate the straight-cut fabric over the bust andshoulder.Anotheruniquedesigninthefirsthalfoftheeighteenthcenturywasthe

broad and roomy sleeve. These sleeveswere cut straightwith a singleseamanddecoratedwithpleatedcuffs,wingedcuffsorruffledflounces.Sleevesbecomenarrowerlateronintheeighteenthcentury,sokeepthisinmindifyouwanttomakeyourgowntoalaterfashion.Finally,earlyeighteenth-centurycuffscouldbelargeorsmall,wingedoropen.Withtheverybroadsleevesonourworkingwoman’sgown,we’vechosen a large open cuff only slightly bigger than the sleeve itself.Wingedcuffsareconstructedexactlythesamewaybutwiththeadditionofatackingstitchatthebackoftheelbowtoclosetheloopandcreatethewing.

MATERIALS•4–6yards(4–6m)ofgownfabric•2–2.5yards(2–2.5m)unbleachedlinen•Silkthread(#30forgathersandtopstitchingand#50forhemming)

THEBODICEWewillbegintheEnglishgownbyconstructingthepleatedfrontandbackpiecesseparately,inpreparationforlaterjoiningthetwotogether.Thepleatingonthisgownisnoeasything,buttheresultsarebeautifulandcomewithasenseofaccomplishment.

1.Determinetheapproximatelengthoftherobingsbymeasuringfromroughlytheshoulderseamonyourbackoverthebustandjustpastthewaist.Addseamallowanceatbothends.

2.Placethebodicefrontliningatopyourfashionfabricand4to6inches(10to15cm)fromthestraightedge.

3.Atthebottomofyourrobings,drawaperpendicularlinefromthestraightfrontedgetoaboutthewidthofyourtoppleatoncepleated.

4.Nowtracethewaistcurveofthebodiceliningandextendthelinedownwardtowardthecenterfrontedge,meetingthestraightlinefromthepreviousstep.AFrenchcurvewillhelpplacethisline.

5.Basteuptheseamallowancealongthecurvedwaistedgefromwheretheskirtswillattach,aroundthesquaredbottomandthefrontedgeoftherobings.

6.Turnupandnarrowhemthecurvedwaistedgefromwheretheskirtswillattach,aroundthesquaredbottom,andthefrontedgeoftherobingsjusttowherethefrontedgewillmeetthecenterpointofthebodicelining.

7.Nowpleattherobings,keepingthelinesonthestraight.Thetoppleatdoesnotneedtobedeep,butthesecond/bottompleatmustbethefullwidth,allowingyoutoreachthefrontedgeofthebodicebeneath.Thisisvitaltopinningthegownwhendressing.

8.Pinandpressthepleatsinplace.Donotstitch.

9.Withthepleatedrobingsfoldedoutflatawayfromthebodice,prickstitchtherobingstogetheralongbothedgesofthetoppleat.Spaceyourstitches¼inch(6mm)apartand¼inch(6mm)fromtheedge.Thisstitchconnectsthetoppleattotheonebelowitonly—donotstitchthepleatstothebodice!

10.Turnuptheseamallowanceontheneckedge,frontedgeandwaistedgeofthebodiceliningandbaste.

11.Placetheliningontothebodiceouterfabric,liningupthefrontedgeoftheliningbelowthebustpointwiththefoldlineoftherobingsandabout¼inch(6mm)back.Useaspacedprickstitchalongthebodiceliningedge,throughalllayers,securingthebodiceliningandouterfabrictogetherandleaving2to3inches(5to8cm)

unhemmedattheshoulder.Therobingsarenowheldinplaceontheoutside,buttheundersideofthepleatsisstillaccessible.

12.Laythebodicefrontpieceoutflatandsmooththeouterfabrictothelining.Pintherawedgesofthebodicetogetheratthesideseamandarmscye.Youwillseethatyouhaveexcessfabricintheshoulderarea.

13.Pinchupthe“wedge”ofexcessfabricintheshoulderarea,folding,fingerpressingandpinningasneededtowardthefrontedgeandtaperingdowntoapoint.Ifthewedgeistoodeep,youcancutsomeoftheexcessfabrictomakeiteasierandlessbulky.Theplacementofthisdartisvariablebutshouldbecoveredbytherobings.

14.Appliquestitchthedartseamfromshoulderdowntothepointonthefashionfabriconly(10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotstitchittothelining.

15.Whileoptional,theinteriorlacingstripsonstomacher-frontgownsassistgreatlyinclosingthegownwithmorethanjustpins.Thislacingkeepsthebackwell-fittedwhilealsoallowingeaseofdressing.Tocreateyourlacingstrips,measurefromjustbelowyourbusttojustaboveyourwaist.Addseamallowance.Cutastripoflinenthislengthandabout4inches(10cm)wide.

16.Foldinandbastealltherawedgesoneachstrip,thenfoldeachlacingstripinhalflengthwiseandpress.

17.Marktheholesforspirallacingonbothpiecesabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Makesureyouhavearightandleftside.

18.Piercetheholewithyourawl.Withheavylinenthread,wellwaxedanddoubled,whipstitchtherawedgeofthehole,workingaroundandpullingthethreadsnugtocreateyoureyelets.Eyeletsweren’tperfectintheeighteenthcenturyandyoursdon’thavetobeeither.Thesewnthreadsaremerelytheretokeeptheholeopen,sodon’tworryifthey’renotdenselysewn.

19.Whenyou’vestitchedaroundtheeyelet,pokethroughtheholewiththeawloncemoretoreopentheeyelet.

20.Withthelacingstripscomplete,pinthemtothebodicefrontliningandhemstitchinplace,carefultocatchonlytheliningfabric.Theplacementofthelacingstripsneedstobefarenoughapartwhenlacedsecurelytoallowtheedgesofthestomachertotuckinbetweenthelacingstripsandthebodicefrontedges.

21.Nowwewillpleatthebackofthegownbodice.Determinethefulllengthofthebackofyourgownbymeasuringfromthenapeofthenecktotheflooroveryourunderpinningsandwithyourpropershoeson.Cutthislengthoffabricthefullwidthfromselvagetoselvage.Thisbeginsthebackofyourgown.

22.Cutthelinenbodiceliningpiecesaccordingtoyourpattern.23.Backstitchthecenterbackseamoftheliningwithyourseamallowance(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Pressopentheseam.

24.Withthebackpieceofthegownfabricandyourliningbothfoldedlengthwise,placetheliningatopthegownfabric,matchingthetopedgeonthestraight.Theliningwillsitatanangletothefoldofthegownfabric.Pin.

25.Tohelpmanagethevolumeoffabric,wewillcutawaysomeoftheexcessbeforepleatingtheback.Todothis,measureacrossthebackoftheliningattheneckline,doubleitandadd2inches(5cm)forsafety’ssake.Markwithapin,thenmeasurestraightdownandmarkthisline.

26.Atthecenterbackwaistedgeofthelining,measuredown2inches(5cm)andmarkwithapin.Measurestraightoutacrossthefabrictomeettheverticallineandmark.Don’tcutityet!

27.Tracetheangleoftheliningcenterbackseam,thenmeasureup2inches(5cm)fromthebottomandmarkthattoo.

28.Nowcutouttheexcessfabricrectanglemeasuredoutearlier.Measuretwice,cutonce!Ifyou’reanywherenearthelining,stopandtriplecheckeverything.Weused60-inch(1.5-m)-widefabricforthisgown.Ifyouhavenarrowerfabric,youmightnotneedtocutanythingaway,butyoumayneedtoaddextrapanelsintheskirtlateron.

29.Nowit’stimetogetstitching.Backstitchthegownfabricalongtheangledcenterbackseamlinepreviouslymarked(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

30.Here’sthesecretsauce:justabovethesmallmark2inches(5cm)abovethewaistedgeofthecenterbackseam(rememberthatmark?),makeanangledcut,stoppingaboutaninch(2.5cm)abovethemark.

31.Cutopenthebackseamalongthefolduntilyoumeettheangledcut.32.Pressopenthebackseam.Youcannowseehowtheangledcutplaysnicewiththeopenseam.Ontheoutside,atuckisformed—thebeginningofyourbackpleats.

33.Next,placetheliningwrongsidestogetheroverthegownfabric,matchingthetopneckedgesandthecenterbackseams.Prickstitch“intheditch”throughbothlayersofthecenterbackseams,matchingtheseamlinesonbothsides(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

34.Lastly,markthebottomofthecenterseam2inches(5cm)upfromthebottomoftheliningrawedge.Readytopleat?Webetyouare.Let’sdoit.

35.PleatingthebackofanEnglishgownisafiddlybusiness.Stickwithit,though,andyourresultswillbestunning!Determinethewidthandstyleofyourpleatsforyourtimeperiodandaestheticlook—earliergownstendtohavewiderbackpleatswhilelatergownstendtohavenarrowerbackpleats.

36.Startthepleatsatthetop,pinchingupseveralinchesoffabrictogetthedepthandwidthyouwant.Workthefirstpleatfromthecenterbackseam,pinningasyougo.

37.Workthesecondpleatfromthecenterback.Thissecondpleatcanbeanydistancefromthefirst—werecommend1to1.5inches(2.5to4cm)orso.Workthispleatfromnecktowaist,pinningasyougo.Nope,we’renotgoingtostitchitdownyet.

38.Timetoworkthepleatsontheotherside.Forthetoppleats,togetthosetwosidesofthepleatseven,pinchupandfoldoverthecenterbackseam,matchingtheoppositepleat.Foldbackintopositionandpininplace.Measureasneededtocheckyourwork.Pin,pin,adjust,pin!

39.Now,weknowyoureallywanttostitchthisdown,butbeforeyoudo,makeonelastcheckonthebody.Holdupthebackpieceorpinitinplaceonthemodel.Checktheproportion,placementofthewaistseamandoveralleffect.Adjustasnecessary.

40.Prickstitchthepleatstothelining,about¼inch(6mm)apartand¼inch(6mm)fromtheedge.About2inches(5cm)fromthebottomwaistedgeofthelining,continuetostitchthepleatsthroughthegownfabric,butnotthelining.Endyourstitchingabout½inch(1.25cm)belowtheliningwaistedge.

41.Ifyouhavealotofexcessfabriconthesideseamsofthebackpanel,youcancutthisaway.Donotcutalongthebottomwaistedgeyet—thatcomeslater!—justcutstraightoutatarightangle,meetingupwiththepreviousstraightcut.

FIRSTFITTINGANDATTACHINGTHESKIRTSNext,wewillfitthebodiceonthebodytoachievethatperfect,uniquefit.WiththeEnglishgown,thefirstfittingcanbeunwieldy,withthe

backskirthangingfromthestitchedbodicebackpleats.Becarefulwiththeskirtinthisstep—youdon’twanttotearorstretchit.

1.First,followingtheshapeofthelining,cutthefashionfabricwithseamallowanceatthesameangleonbothsides.Cutbeneaththebackpleatsjustasmidge.Beverycarefulwithhowyouhandlethegownatthispointbecausethereisalotofstressonthefabricnowandyoudon’twanttoaccidentallytearanything.

2.Withthemodelinallofherunderpinnings,pinthebackofthegowntothestays,liningupthecenterbackseamwiththecenterbackofthemodelandsecurelypininplace.

3.Pinthestomachertothestays,liningupthecenterfrontofthestomacherwiththecenterfrontofthemodel.

4.Roughlypinthebodicefrontsonthemodel,notingtheangleofthebodiceandwherethewaistissitting.Youdonotwantyourwaisttobetooshort!Itcanhelptopinthewaisttothepetticoatsoitdoesn’trideupinthefittingprocess.

5.Securelypinthebodicetothestomacherontheedgeoforbeneaththerobings,makingsureeachsideiseven.

6.Roughlypintheshoulderstrapliningtothebackpiece.Thisisnotyourfinalshoulderstrapfitting.Thisisjusttohelpkeepthebodiceinplace.

7.Beginfittingthesidebackseamsbypullingandpinchingthelinenliningsofthebackandfrontpiecestogetherandpinning.Keeptheliningtautandsmoothandevenonbothsides.Don’ttrimanythingawayunlessitisabsolutelyvital,includingthearmscyes—thesewillbetrimmedawaylater.

8.Ifthewaististoolow,youwillseewrinklesthere.Removeanybastingandfoldtheseamallowanceuporslicetheteeniesttiniestcutsintotheseamallowancetoreleasethewrinkles.

9.Continuallycheckthroughoutthefittingthatnothinghasgonewonky.It’sagoodruleofthumbtocheckyourcenterfront,centerbackandsidesasyougo.Don’thyperfocusononespotfortoolongwithoutcheckinghowthatfittingisaffectingtherestofthegown.

10.Mark/pin/bastethefinalwaistpoint.Ifthisisdifferentfromthebastedwaistedgeoftheliningfrontfromstep10(TheBodice,here),removethebastingstitch,fiddleandbasteagain.

11.Whenfinished,makesureyouandyourmodelarebothhappywiththeoveralllookandfit.Thencarefullyremovethegownfromthemodelbyunpinningthestomacher,frontsandshoulderstraps.Leavethesideseamsandwaistpinsandmarkingsinplace.

12.Laythegownandbodiceoutopenandflat.Stitchtheliningstogetheratthemarked,fittedsidebackseamsfromtheinsideusingahemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),avoidingthefashionfabric.Presstheseamsopenandtrimseamallowanceto¾to1inch(2to2.5cm).

13.Nowfromtheoutside,smoothandpinthefashionfabrictowardthesidebackseam,foldingundertheseamallowancetocreatetheprettycurvingsideseamsseeninoriginals.Youwantthesidebackseamstobeflatteringandevenonbothsides.Itdoesnothavetomatchtheliningsidebackseams.Oneoftheeasiestwaystomatchthesidebackseamsistodoonesidefirst,getitexactlyhowyoulikeit,andthencopyitontheothersidebydoingapoint-for-pointmeasureandmarkingthepointswithpins,pencilorchalk.Measureonefinaltimeaftereverythingispinnedintoplacetocheckthatyourcurvesareeven.

14.Prickstitchthesidebackseamsintoplaceusingthesamedistance/methodthatwasusedfortherobingsandbackpleats(here).

15.Basteupthefashionfabricwaistseamaccordingtoyourpinsorothermarkingmethod.Basteupthewaistedgeofthefashionfabricasbestyoucanbeneaththebodicepleatsattheback—itmaytapertonothing,butbesurethisrawnessishiddenunderthebodicepleats.

16.OriginalEnglishgownsshowanumberoftreatmentsforthetopofthebodiceback.Themostcommonfinishingistobindtheedgewithastripofself-fabric,sometimesdonebeforetheshoulderstrapsaresetandsometimesafterward.We’vechosentobindfirst,bypassingthetrickyanglesandfussystitchingthatcomewithbindingthetopedgelast.Todothis,cutastripofself-fabriconthestraight,thelengthofyourbodicetopedge,andyourdesiredwidthdoubled.Addseamallowancetothelongedges.

17.Applyhalfthewidthofthebindingtothetopedgeofthebodice,overthepleats.Prickstitchthebindingontheexterior(¼x¼inch[6x6mm]),thenfoldtheremainingwidthovertheedgeandtotheinsideofthebodice.Hemstitchtheedgetotheliningontheinside(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Don’tworryaboutfinishingtheshortedgesontheendsofthebinding—thesewillbecoveredbytherobingslater.

18.Next,wewillattachtherestofthegownskirting.Sewtheadditionalsideskirtpanelstothebackofthegownusingamantuamaker’sseamforrawcutedgesorarunningbackstitchforselvageedges(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

19.Leave10inches(25.5cm)fromthetopofskirtsopenatthatseamforthepocketopenings.Turnbackandrunningstitchselvageedgesorbasteandhemstitchtheopeningonrawcutedges(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

20.Beforepleatingtheskirt,marktheplacementofyourpocketslitsonthewaistedgeofyourbodice.It’susuallyjustalittleforwardofthecenterofyourunderarm.Keepitevenonbothsides.

21.Nowwe’regoingtoknifepleatallthisskirtintothebodice.Thefirstcouplepleatsstartingatthecenterbackofthegownaretricky.Thebodicepleatsflowingfromthebackintotheskirtmustoverlaytheskirtpleats.Todothis,scoochtheprepleatedskirtpaneltowardthecenterback,underthebodicepleats,toformonehiddenknifepleat.Pin.

22.Continuetopleatandpinthesidebackskirts,workingtheknifepleatsfromthecenterbacktowardthefront.Adjustasneeded,thenbaste.

23.Pleatandpintheskirtfrontpanels,workingtheknifepleatsfromthefronttowardtheback,andcheckingthelengthagainstthebodicewaistmeasurementtheskirtneedstofitinto.Adjustasneeded,thenbaste.Thesizeandnumberofpleatsaredependentonhowmuchfabricyouhave,yourwaistsizeandyourtargettimeperiod:largerpleatsforearlier;smallerpleatsforlater.WecannotgiveyouaformulaforpleatingyourGeorgiangown.Youjustneedtoembraceyourinnereighteenth-centurymantua-maker.Makeitwork.Makethempretty,butdon’twasteyourtimewithmathandperfection.Ifonesidehasanextrapleatinit,that’sfine—originalsdidtoo—andnobodywillbecountingthem.

24.Pullbacktheliningfromthewaistedgeontheinsideandpinoutoftheway.

25.Workingflatfromtheoutside,lapthebastedbodicewaistedgeoverthepleatsofthesidebackskirtandpin.Checkthatnothingispullingorrumpled,especiallywherethebodicebackpleatstransitionintotheskirtpleats.Allshouldliesmoothandflat.

26.Fromtheoutside,prickstitchthepleatstothewaistedgethroughallfashionfabriclayers,catchingeachpleatasyougo.Aimfora⅛-inch(3-mm)squareprickstitchanddon’tfusstoomuchtryingtogetitperfect.Stitchfromthebackpleatstothepocketslitmark.Leavethepleatedfrontskirtsfreeatthispoint.

27.Flipthegowntotheinsideandunpinthelining.Workingflat,smooththelining,foldundertheseamallowanceontherawwaistedgeatthebackhalfofthebodice,andhemstitchoverthepleats(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Don’tworryaboutcatchingallthelayers—thepleatsarenowsecuredonboththeexteriorandinterior.

SLEEVESANDCUFFSDuringthegreatspanofyearstheEnglishgownwasinfashion,variouscufftreatmentscameinandoutofstyle.EarlyEnglishgownshadlargeopencuffswhilewingedcuffsandruffledsleeveflounces(here)cameintostylelater.We’vechosenlargepleatedcuffstopairwiththebroad,early-stylesleeves.Wingedcuffsaremadewiththesamemethodinvaryingsizesandflares.

1.Cutouttheliningandthefashionfabricforbothsleeves,makingsureyouhavealeftsleeveandarightsleeve.Ithelpstoworkbothsleevestogethertomakesureyouhavealeftandright.

2.Basteupthefashionfabricseamallowanceonthecuffedgeofthesleeve.

3.Placetheliningonthefashionfabricwrongsidestogether.Foldtheliningseamallowanceintositjustbelowthefashionfabric,andedgehemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).It’sokayifthestitchisvisiblefromtheoutside.

4.Bastethesleeveheadliningandfashionfabrictogethertohelpwithfittinglater.

5.Foldthesleeveinhalf,matchingtherawedges,andpinallfourlayerstogether.Backstitchtogether(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

6.Presstheseamallowanceopenortooneside.

7.Nowwewillconstructthecuffs.Foldandbasteupallfoursidesofthefashionfabriccuff.

8.Placethecuffliningonthefashionfabric,wrongsidetogether.Pinthroughthemiddletoholdthelininginplace,thenturneachedgeoftheliningtositslightlyinsidetheouterfabricedge,pinandhemstitcharoundallfoursides(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

9.Withtheliningandouterfabricattached,markthepleatsontheoutsidewithchalkorwashable/removableink.

10.Foldthecuffinhalf,rightsidestogether,matchingtheshortedges,andwhipstitchtogether(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

11.Fromtheoutsideofthecuff,pleatupwardthreetimesaccordingtoyourmarks.Besuretolineuptheverticalseam.Pinintopositionandtackeachpleatdownwithsmallprickstitches(5to6stitchesperinch[2.5cm])tosecurethepleatsforatleast1inch(2.5cm)oneachsideofthecenterseam.

SECONDFITTINGANDFINISHINGUPTheeighteenth-centurymethodforsettingsleevesdifferedgreatlyfromtoday’stechniques.Sleevesweresetonthebody,workingfromtheoutside,toachievecomfortandmobility.Thismethodisusedthroughalltheprojectsinthisbook.

1.Putthegownonoverallunderpinningsandwithyourpropershoeson.Atthispointyoucanusethelacingstripstoclosethegown,keepingthebackwell-fitted.Placethestomacheroverthelacingstrip,thenpinthegowntothestomacher,placingthepinsbeneaththerobings.

2.Pulltheliningoftheshoulderstrapverysnugglyoverthemodel’sshoulder.Pinchtherawedgesofthestrapandbackshoulderseamtogether,pin,thenallowtolieflat,withtheseamallowancefacingupward.Balanceisimportant,butnothingisworsethanpoorlyfittedshoulderstrapsthatfalloff.Theyneedtobetight!Dependingontheshapeofyourshoulders,yourstrapsmayneedtobesetnarrowlyorbroadlyintheback.Adjustasneededuntilthestrapsaresecureand

thefrontandbackbodicepiecesdonotgapealongtheneckline.

3.Repeatfortheothershoulderstrap,matchingtheanglesasbestyoucan.Almosteveryonehasashouldertheyholduphigherthantheother—that’snormal,buttrytomaketheshoulderstrapsappearevenfromtheoutside.Don’tworryabouttheseamallowancebeingevenontheinterior—fitandoutwardappearanceismostimportant.

4.Pullthefirstsleeveontothemodel’sarm,roughlypinningthesleeveseamandshoulderpoint.Manyeighteenth-centurysleeveseamsusuallysitsomewherebetweenthetrueunderarmandalmostvisiblebackofthearm.

5.Workingfromroughlywhereyourarmpitstartsinfront,fittheundersideofthesleeve,foldinguptheseamallowanceandcarefullypinningintoplace.

6.Withtheunderarmpinned,workthetopofthesleeve,tuckingandpleatingatthetopoftheshoulderandworkingtowardthebacktomaketheextravolumeofthesleeveheadfit.Turntheseamallowanceunderandpinasyougo.Earliergownsarecommonlyfitovertheshoulderstrapsbutundertherobings,withtheseamallowanceturnedunder,butrawedgesmayalsobeleft,tobecoveredlaterbytherobings.

7.Withbothsleevesset,pullthecuffsoverthesleevesandpinintopositionallaroundthetopofthecuff.Whenyoureachthebackofthearm,youwillhaveextralengthinthecuffversusthecircumferenceofthesleeve.Foropencuffs,likeours,justleavethisextrabitto“float.”Forwingedcuffs,pinchtheexcessatthetopjustwherethecuffmeetsthesleeveandpin.

8.Next,wewillfittheskirtpanels.Wehavefounditeasiesttofitthefrontskirtpanelsofmostgownsonthebody,overallunderpinningsandwithyourpropershoeson.Tucktheprepleatedandbastedskirtfrontpanelbetweentheouterfabricandtheliningofthebodicefront.Adjustthelengthandangleasneededuntiltheskirtpleatsfallgracefullyoverthepetticoatwithnotwisting,collapsingorbuckling.Pin.

9.Marktheskirthemlength,thencarefullyremovethegownfromthemodel.

10.Insidethebodice,wheretheshoulderstrapattachestothebackofthebodice,carefullystitchdownthestraptotheliningofthegownusingsmallhemmingstitches.

11.Nowit’stimeforthemagicalarmscyepinningtrick.Tomakeiteasiertobackstitchtheunderarmofthesleeves,thepinsareadjustedtogointothearmscye.Pintheentireunderarmthiswayfromwhereitstartsatthefrontcreasetowheretheshoulderstrapwillbegininthebackofthegown.

12.Afterperfectingyourpinning,drawapencillinetoshowthecurveofthearmscye,matchingbothsides.Tightlybackstitchalongthisline(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

13.Movingontothetopofthesleeve,prickstitchthesleeve(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm])intoplacethroughalllayers,overthetopoftheshoulderstrap.Thetopofthesleevewillbecoveredbytherobing.

14.Ontheinside,cutouttheexcessfabricinthearmscye,leavingabout¼to½inch(6.3to12.7mm)rawseamallowance.

15.Onthecuffs,doaspacedprickstitcharoundjustthetopedge.Allowanyexcessto“fly”attheback.Forwingedcuffs,makeafewstitchesatjustthetopwhereyoupinnedthecuffinback.

16.Nextlaytheshoulderstrapovertopofthebindinginback,turntherawedgesunder,andmakesurethattheanglesandmatchpointsarethesameonbothsidesofthegown.Prickstitchintoplace(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm]).Thiscanbetricky,especiallyifyourshouldersareuneven.Powerthrough!Youcandoit!

17.Hemstitchclosedanyremainingopeningalongtheneckline(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

18.Atthewaistedge,turnbacktheliningandpintokeepitoutoftheway.Thenprickstitchthebodiceandskirttogethercatchingineachpleatthroughalllayers(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm]).

19.Releasethebodicelining.Smoothtowardthewaistedge,thenturnundertheseamallowanceandhemstitchovertheskirtfrontpleats(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

20.Finally,hemyourgown.Thesizeofthehemshouldbebetween¼inch(6mm)and½inch(1.3cm)wide(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Nomoreoritstartstolooktoomodern.Yourhemmaybelongerinback,angledupatthefront,orevenallthewayaround,dependingonyourfigure,underpinningsandstylisticpreferences.

Congratulations!Youdidit!TheEnglishgownisdone!

1740sNeckHandkerchief

Neck handkerchiefs in the 1740s were large and full. They could besquares folded in half or triangular with slits or shaping on the longedge.Somekerchiefsweretrimmedwithlacewhileothersweresimpleand plain. This kerchief has some shaping in the neck, and is inpossessionoflonger“tails”tofilloutthestomachersectionofthe1740sgown.Thisprojectisanothergreatpracticepieceforfinehemming,andyoucanalsomakeitoutoffancierfabrictomakeitamorefashionablepiece.

MATERIALS•1yard(1m)oflightweightlinen•Linen(60/2)orcottonthread

ASSEMBLY1.Ironandstarchthekerchiefpiece.Folditinhalf,matchingcorners,andpressagain.Openandlayflat.

2.Fromthelongedge,measuredownintothebodyoftheneck

handkerchief3.5inches(8.9cm)alongthecentercreaseandmarkwithapin.Cutopenalongthislinetothepin.

3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onalledges,includingtheslitandbaste.Thepointwheretheneckslitendsandtheneckhandkerchiefbodystartswillnotbasteback.Leaveitfreefornow.

4.Turnupalledgesagain,foldingthe¼inch(6mm)bastededgeinhalftocreatea⅛-inch(3-mm)-widenarrowhem.Hemstitch(12to16stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

5.Attherawendpointoftheslit,closelywhipstitchovertherawedgetofinish.

1740sApron

Madeoutofaplainwovenwhitelinen,thisprojectisexcellentpracticeforyourfinehemmingandstrokegathers.We’veshapedthetopoftheapron with a dip, which accommodates the robings and presents thatnice tidy appearancewhenworn. Aswith all the accessories, you candressitupordownwithyourfabricchoices.

MATERIALS•1yard(1m)Irishlinen,cottonorsilkorganza•Linen(60/2)orcottonthread•2.5yards(2.5m)½–1”(1.3–2.5-cm)widelinenorcottontape

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthebodyoftheapronaccordingtothecuttingdiagram(here).

2.Basteandhemstitchthreesidesoftheapron,leavingthewaistedgeraw(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

3.Startingfromtheoutsideedge,runningstitchtothecenteroftheapron,spacingyourrunningstitchesabout¼inch(6mm)apart.Continuewithtwoadditionalrowsofrunningstitchesabout⅛inch(3mm)belowthisfirstrow,followingthespacing.

4.Repeatstepthree,thistimestartingfromthecenterandstitchingtowardtheoutsideedge.

5.Withthethreeendsofthethreadheldtogether,drawuptherunningstitchestotheneededwidth,approximatelyaquarterofyourwaistmeasurement.Anchorthethreadsbywrappingtheminafigureeight

aroundapin.Repeatforthesecondhalf.

6.Keepthegatherseven.“Stroke”eachbumpofthegatherswiththepointofyourscissors,orasimilartool,tospaceeachgatherevenly.Workonesideoftheapron,thentheother.Tohelpcontrolthefullness,shootalittlesteamfromtheironontothegathersandtapwithyourfingers.

7.Cutthewaisttapeapproximatelydoubleyourwaistcircumferenceplusenoughtotieabow.Foldthislengthinhalfandmarkthecenterwithapin.

8.Matchingthecenteroftheaprontoptothecenterofthewaisttape,laytheedgeofthewaisttapeoverthewaistedgeoftheapronapproximatelyhalfthewidthofthetape.Pin.Leavetheotherhalfofthewaisttapetofoldover.

9.Hemstitchtheedgeofthewaisttapetotheapron,catchingevery“bump”ofthegathers.

10.Ontheinside,foldtheremainingwaisttapeovertherawedgeandhemstitchtotheapron,againcatchingeverybumpofthegathers.

Done!

1740sCap

This cute little cap is based on fashion prints from the 1740s.10 Weconsider it a “Lappet Cap Lite” as it has tiny lappet-like shapes at theside of the face but does not tie under the chin. Themini-lappets canalsobepinnedupoutoftheway,whichwascommonduringthe1740s–1750s.We’veoptedtomakethecapoutofaplainwhitelinentomatchourotherworking-classmillinery,butthispatterncaneasilybemadein

cottonorgandyorsilkgauzeforamorefashionablelook.

MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)Irishlinen,cottonorgandyorsilkorganza•Linenthread(60/2&35/2)•20”(51cm)of¼”(6-mm)widefinecottontapeorcandlewicking•1+yard(1+m)of1”(2.5-cm)widesilkribbonfordecoration

ASSEMBLY1.Lightlystarchandironthepieces.Thishelpsavoidthewibbly-wobblyoflinen.

2.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onallsidesofthebandandruffleofthecap

andbaste.Foldthis¼inch(6mm)inhalfagaintocreatea⅛-inch(3-mm)-widenarrowhem.Hemstitch(12to16stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)ontheedgesofthecaulandbaste.

4.Foldthecaulpieceinhalftofindthecenterback.Markwithapin.

5.Usinganawl,workaholeatthecenterofthebottomedgeofthecauljustabovethebasting.

6.Usewaxedlinenthread,doubled,toovercasttheedgesofthehole.Whencomplete,pokewiththeawlagaintoopenandshapetheeyelet.

7.Atoptheturnedandbastededge,securethetapetothebaseofthecaulpieceoneachendusingafewstrongbackstitches.

8.Pulltheexcesstapethroughtheeyelet,usinganawlorpintopushthetapethrough.Cutthetapeatthecenter.

9.Foldupthestraightbottomedgeofthecaulpieceoverthetape.Finelyhem,makingsurenottocatchthetapeinthestitches.

10.Finehemtheremainingbastededgesofthecaul(seestep2).11.Withapin,markwherethegatheringshouldstartoneachsideofthecaulofthecapsothatitwillfitintotheband.Thisisabout1to1.5inches(2.5to3.8cm)uponeachside.

12.Foldthecaulinhalftofindthetopcenterpointandmarkwithapin.

13.Foldthebandinhalftofindthetopcenterpointandmarkwithapin.

14.Usingaheavierthread,looselywhipoverthecurvedhemmededgeofthecaulfromonesidetothecenterpoint,about4to6stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Pullupthisthreadtogatherhalfofthecaultoapproximatelyhalfthelengthofthebandandtieoff.Repeatstep14fortheothersideofthecaul.

15.Pinthecaultothebandwithrightsidestogether,matchingthecentermarks.Whipstitchthetwopiecestogether,catchingeverybumpofthegathers.Whencomplete,openouttheseam,pressandpullflatwithyourfingers.

16.Theruffleisapproximately1.5timesthelengthoftheband.Theruffleisnotastightlygatheredasthecaul.Startthegatheringbylooselywhippingoveronelongedgeofruffle,stopping3inches(8cm)in.Pullthegatheringthreaduptoreducethis3-inch(8-cm)sectionto2inches(6cm),thentackstitchtheendtosecurethegatheredsection.Donotcutthethread.

17.Continuealongthelengthofthebandin3-inch(8-cm)sections,eachtimewhipping3inches(8cm),gatheringto2inches(5cm),thentackstitchingbeforecontinuing.

18.Withrightsidestogether,pintheruffletotheband.Whipstitchtheedgestogether,beingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathersthentieoff.Openouttheseam,fingerpressandpulltosetthestitching.

19.Irontheseamssoeverythinglayssmoothlyandrestarchasneeded.20.Addthesilkribbonasdecoration.

1740sMitts

Mittswere a goodway to keep your forearmswarm in the eighteenthcentury.Theycouldbefancyorplainandunlikegloves,wereopenontheends.Thesemittsareasimpledesignmadefromlightweightwool,cutonthebiastoprovidestretchandfittotheintendedwearer’sarms.

MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)worstedwool•Silkthread#30•Smallscrapincomplementarysilktaffeta

ASSEMBLY1.Hemthebottomedgeofthesilkfacingpiece(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Setaside.

2.Cutthethumbholewithseamallowanceinthebodypieceofthe

mitts.Setaside.

3.Hemthetopedgeofthethumbpiece(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

4.Stitchtheseamofthethumbpieceusingabackstitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

5.Turnuptheseamallowanceonthebaseofthethumbpieceandbaste.

6.Pinthebaseofthethumbpiecearoundtheholeinthebodyofthemittsontherightside.Thisisatopicalapplicationandwillbestitchedfromtheoutside.Matchtheseamofthethumbpiecetothepeakofthethumbhole.Appliquestitchthethumbpiecetothebodyofthemittsfromtheoutside(10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Keepyourstitchessmallandneat.

7.Withthethumbpieceappliedbutthebodyofthemittsstillflat,turnunderandbastehalfoftheseamallowancealongthetopedgeofthemitts.

8.Withwrongsidestogether,matchthepointofthemittsandthepointofthefacingpiece.Turnundertheseamallowanceofthefacingpiecetomatchthebastededgeofthemitts,andhemstitchinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leavethepreviouslyhemmedbottomedgeofthemittsfree.

9.Turnandhemstitchtheremaining,unfacedtopedgeofthemitts(theundersideofthehand).

10.Nowwewillhaveamitt-fit.Withwrongsidestogether,matchthesideseamsofthebodyofthemittsandpinlengthwise.Thenwiththemittsonthemodelright-side-outandtheseamallowanceontheoutside,adjustthepinsalongtheseamuntilthefitissmoothandcloselyfitted.Avoidmakingthemittstootight,especiallyaroundthewrist.Testyourpinningbytakingthemittsonandoff,adjustinganywherethatmaybetootightortooloose.

11.Removethemitts,layflat,andmark¼inch(6mm)seamallowanceoutfromthepinmarks.Cutofftheexcess.

12.Unpinandturnthemittsinsideout,matchingtheseamsright-sidestogether.

13.Backstitchalongtheseamline(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),leavingthe¼inch(6mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamopen.

14.Hemtheelbowedgeofthemitts¼inch(6mm)(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

1740sSimpleStrawHat

The ever-popular strawhatwas a staple ofGeorgian dress throughouttheentirecentury.Asimplestrawhat,liketheonewe’redemonstratinghere, is a great example of a working-class piece. However, there aremanywaystoskinahat!Justaquicklookatperiodimageswillshowyoumyriaddesignoptions.Becreativeandhavefun!

MATERIALS•1strawhatblank—afinestrawwithashallowcrown,approximately15”(38cm)indiameter,naturalorblack

•3–4yards(3–4m)ofsilkribbon,1–2”(2.5–5cm)wide•Silkthread(#30)

ASSEMBLY1.Measurealengthofribbonlongenoughtocarryoverthetopofthehat,downthesides,andtieunderthechin(about60inches[1.5m]).Foldthisribboninhalftofindthecenterpoint,andpinittothecentertopofthecrown.

2.Smooththeribbondownthesidesofthecrownandstitchinplaceon

eachside.

3.Smooththeribbonalongthebrimtotheedgesandfinelytackstitcheachsideoftheribbon.

4.Tomakethebows,cuttwoshortlengthsofribbon,approximately6-inches(15-cm)long.Laptheendsoftheribbontomakealoop.Stitchtohold.

5.Withthejoinattheback,pinchthebowinthemiddle.Passafewstitchesthroughthebackofthepinchedportiontoholdinplace,thenpressthebowflatwiththeiron.Repeatforthesecondbow.

6.Placethetwobowsatoponeanotheratrightanglestoformtherosette.Stitchthroughalllayerstosecurethebowstogether.

7.Stitchthefinishedrosettetothehatatthebaseofthecrown.Repeatfortheoppositeside.

Done!

HowtoGetDressedandWearYourEnglishGown

ASSEMBLY1.Startwithyourshift,stockingsandshoeson.Putonyourunder-petticoatandtieitaroundyourwaist.Nextcomethestays,lacedonovertheunder-petticoat.Ifyouhaveapocket,tieiton.Hookthebowunderoneofyourstaytabs.

2.Putonyourcapandpinintoplacewithtwostraightpinsoneitherside.

3.Nextisthepetticoat.Putthepetticoatonoveryourhead,thentiethebacktapestothefrontofthebodywiththebowofftooneside.Thentiethefrontofthepetticoattothebackofthebody.

4.Putonyourgownandlaceupthehiddenlacingstripstosecurethegowntoyourbody.Pullyourshiftsleevesdownandoutsotheyarevisibleatyourelbow.

5.Pinyourstomacheroverthetopofyourgownlacesbutbeneaththefrontedgesandrobingsofthegownitself.

6.Pintwolovelypiecesofribbontoeachsideofthegownfrontedges,justbelowthetopofthestomacher.Theseribbonsmayalsobestitchedtothegownpermanently.

7.Tietheribbonstogetherinabowatthecenterfrontofyourstomacher.

8.Nowpinthegownclosedwithstrongstraightpins.Pinunderneaththerobings,throughthehiddenfrontedgesofthegownandtothestomacher.Thepinningdoesn’thavetobeperfect,justsecure.Pinallthewaydowntothewaistonbothsides.Ifneeded,pinthetopoftherobingsinplaceatthewaistedgetokeepthemsmoothandsecure.

9.Tieonyourapronbyhookingthefront“dip”undertherobingsandallowingthisareatobealittleloose.Crosstheaprontiesinbackandbringbackaroundtothefront,tyinginabowandhookingitundertherobingsandstomacher.

10.Putthekerchiefonwiththelongedgearoundthebackofyourneckandtuckthetailsthroughtheribbonatthetopofyourstomacher.

11.Lastly,foroutdooractivities,tieandpinthehatoveryourcap.Forthe1740s,thehattiesmaybeworneitheratthebackoftheheadorunderthechin.Werecommendtyingtothebackofthehead;underthechincanlookunintentionallydorky.

12.Andifithappenstobecoldthatday,pullonyourmitts.Thesetakealittletuggingifthefitisright,sodon’tdespairshouldtheyfeeltoosmallatfirst—thebiascutallowsthemtostretch.

Nowyou’rereadyforthemarket!

CHAPTERTHREE

TheSacqueGown1760s-1770s

INSPIREDBYFRANCISCOTES’SAPORTRAITOFALADY,1768&PATTERNSOFFASHION,PG25.1,2

Oftenwhennewcostumersthinkoftheir1700s“dreamdress,”theyimmediatelyenvisiontherobealafrançaise,orwhatwascontemporarilyknowninEnglishasthesacquegown.

Thestackedboxpleatsfallingfromtheshoulderstothefloorcreatesomeofthemostelegantlinesinthehistoryofwomen’sfashion.

Thebeautifulsilhouetteandpeculiarconstructionofthesacquegowndoesmakeittricky,evenfortheskilledcostumer,butwehopetobringclaritytothequirksofthisbeautifulstyle.

Oursacquegowncomesfromthelate1760s,andwhileitisnotextremeinitsproportions,wearen’tskimpingontheruffles.Oh,therewillberuffles!

Themostpopularfiberforthesacqueissilk:silktaffeta,silkdamaskorsilksatin.Pretty,expensiveprintedcottonswereusedtoo,aswellastheoccasionalembroideredlinen.

Thisdesignalsolendsitselftotheshortform,knownastheshortsacqueorpetenl’air.It’sallinthename—theshortsacqueiscutjacket-length,longerearlierinthecenturyandshorterlateron.Now,ifyouknowFrenchoryou’reawizatGoogleTranslate,thenyou’llknowthatpetenl’airmeans“fartintheair.”Thissaucynameisindeedhistoricallyaccurate!Asitturnsout,MadamePompadourinventedthisstyleofshortdress,andonthefirstdayshedebutedtheoutfit,oneofhermaids“gaveventtosomeconfinedair.”ApparentlyMadamePompadourthoughtthiswashilariousanddecidedtonamehernewoutfitafterthishappylittleaccident.3

RobeàlaFrançaise(Detail),c.1760,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,1996.374a-c

RobeàlaFrançaise(Detail),c.1775,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.2007.211.720a-b

RobeàlaFrançaise,c.1775,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2005.61a,b

OURCHOICESFORTHESACQUEGOWNLet’sbehonest.Ourmainmotivationandgoalforourlate1760ssacquewastolooklikeacakecoveredindeliciousfrosting.ItwasthemotivationofmanyaGeorgianladyaswell!Whenlookingatportraitsfromthe1760sandearly1770s,weseethatwomenlovedusingmatchingtrimfortheirgowns.Whiletrimcouldbehemmedorpinked,gatheredorpleated,evensacquegownsthatwerenot“formal”werestillheavilytrimmed,oftenwithpassementerietrimmingthetrimofthegown!Wehaveusedpinkedself-fabrictrimforthegownandpetticoat,withcarefulattentiontotheproportionofthetrimtoachievethatflatteringandhistoricallyaccurateeffect.Our gown is designed to go over moderately sized hoops. Theirconstructionissuchthattheyshouldbeeasyandquicktomakeandtostoreor travelwith.Wedon’t recommendwearing a full sacquegownwithouthoops.Havingthatadditionalwidthisimportanttosuccessfully

showoff the trimon the frontof thegownand thepleats in thebackwhilegivingtheillusionofasmallerwaist.Bonus!Inthischapter,wewilldemonstrateanumberofsacque-specificfittingtechniquesalongwithtrimmingtipsandtricksfortight-wovensilkandtutorialsforworkingwithlighter-than-airorganza.Onward!

ANOTEONHAIRSTYLINGFORYOURSACQUEGOWNBeforewemoveontotheprojects,wewanttoaddresssomepotentialstylingissues.Ninety-fivepercentofladieswhowanttomakeandwearasacquegownensemblealsowanttorocktheverylarge,supertallhairstylesbecause“that’ssoeighteenthcentury!”Butthat’snotalwaysthecase.Hairstyleschangedconstantlythroughoutthecentury,andtherearedistinctshiftsinhairstyleseverycoupleofyearsinthelasthalfofthe1700s.ThetallGeorgianhairstylewasactuallyonlyinfashionforashorttime:1772to1775.Before1772attheearliest,Englishwomenworetheirhairmuchlower,andusuallyunpowderedorverylightlypowdered.Post1776,whilehairisstilltall,thestylestartstowidenoutatthetopcreatingamoreheart-shapedstyleandeventuallymorphsintothe“hedgehog”hairstyleofthe1780s,widerthanitwastall.Asalways,returntoresearch.Collectprimary-sourceimagesfromtheyearyouareportrayingandstudythehairstylesclosely.Compareandcontrastwithotheryears,particularlyinthesamedecade,todevelopyourGeorgianstylesense.4

OH,SWEET,SWEETSILKWorkingwithandwearingrealsilkismagical.Whilethereweremanydifferenttypesofsilkfabricusedintheeighteenthcentury,silktaffetaisago-tochoicetoday.Anincrediblycommonfabricintheeighteenthcentury,silktaffetaiscrisp,lightweightandmakesthebestswooshynoiseswhenyouwalk.Whenyou’reworkingwithrealsilk,itdoesn’tslipandslidelikefauxpolyestersilk.It’seasytopleatalotoffabricintoatinyspace,allowingthosesuperfull,superprettyskirts.Itreallycan

makeyoufeelluxuriousandglamorous.However,therearesomedrawbacksandtrickstosilkthatweneedtoaddress.Did you know that silk is the hottest fabric to wear? It is the leastbreathableofthefournaturalfibers(yes,evenwool!).Youwillprobablyregret wearing it to an outdoor summer event, unless becoming awalkingsaunaisyourplan.Silkalsodoesn’tdowater,soavoidarainyday.Therearenotenoughtissuesintheworldtosoakupthosetearsofdevastation.The biggest problem with silks today is the loom widths. You see,eighteenth-centurysilkwaswovenathalfanellwide,whichequatestoanywhere between 18 and 24 inches (20.3 to 60.9 cm) wide,significantlynarrowerthantheup-to-60-inch(152.4-cm)-widefabricwehave today.5Thewidthof silkaffected thewayamantuamakercutagown,howithung,howtheyachievedthefullnessinsomeplaces,etc.Whilecuttingsilkupintopanelsissometimesasmartoption,therearesomecaseswherethismightnotbenecessary,optinginsteadforafalseseam. Why create more work for yourself? The eighteenth-centurymantuamakercertainlywouldn’thave!Silk came in different qualities andweights in the eighteenth century.Not all silks were, or are, created equal. Here’s a quick guide forshoppingeighteenth-century-stylesilktaffetas.

1.Plainwovenandchangeable(differentcolorsforwarpandweft).Thesearealwaysacceptableandagoodchoice,butavoidslubbyplainweavessuchasduppioni,raworThaisilk.Slubsinsilkareconsideredfaultsintheeighteenthcentury,andsothebiggertheslubs,thelowerthequality.Whileamodernmachinewovenduppioniwithverysmallandminimalslubbingcouldworkfora“cheap”eighteenth-centurysilkgown,giveitapassforaballgownoranysortofformaldress.

2.Stripes.Popularthroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury.Besuretomakenoteofstripewidthanddesignrepeatinrelationtothedecadeyou’rere-creating.Notallstripeswilldo.

3.Plaidsor“cross-barred.”Popularforsacquesduringthe1760sand1770s.Bemindfulofcolors,densityandscaleandchoosewisely.Eighteenth-centurycross-barredsilksarenottartans!

4.Embroidered.Mostmodernsilksaremachineembroideredintoo-moderndesigns.Becarefulwhenchoosingoneofthese,orconsiderhand-embroideringplain-weavetaffetayourself.

5.Brocade/jacquard/damask.Agorgeouschoiceforearly-to-mid-eighteenth-centurysacques.Becarefulofthefabricweight,scaleandcolorsused.AvoidtheHomeDecorsectionliketheplague,andsteerawayfromVictorianesquemotifs.

6.Painted.OriginalpaintedsilkwascommonlydoneinChinaorIndiaandisimpossibletofindtoday.Thisisoneyou’llhavetodoyourselfwithreadilyavailablesilkpaintsonplain-weavetaffeta.

Whichevertypeofsilkyoudecideon,besuretoreallystudythescale,colorandlayoutoffabricdesignsonoriginalgarmentsbeforespendingmoneyonthewrongfabric!

1760sUndiesSideHoops

Eighteenth-centurygownsarewellknownfortheir“hippy”silhouettes.Theseshapeswereachievedwithvarioustypesofhoopedpetticoats,fromthefull-lengthgrandpannierstohippadstopockethoopslikethese.Thesehoopscanbemadesmallerorlargerfordifferenteffects.

MATERIALS•1–1½yards(1–1.5m)oflinenorcotton•15–17yards(15–17m)of¾”(2-cm)cottonorlinentape•4yards(4m)of½”(1.3-cm)-widecaneboning•Linenthread(60/2)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepatternaccordingtothediagram(here).

2.CutthepocketopeningandasmallTatthebottom,turnandhembothedges.Whipoverthebottomcut.

3.Turnupandbastethebottomedge½inch(1.3cm).

4.Markchannelsfor¾-inch(2-cm)tapeatthebottom,acrossthebottomofthepocketopeningandhalfwaybetweenthetwo(seepattern).Lineupthebottomtapeoverthebastededgeandthetoptapealongthewhippedbottomofthepocketslit.

5.Pinthetapeandrunningbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])bothedgesinplace,leavingtheendsopen.(Ifyouwanttosavetime,youcanuseamachineforsewingyourchannels.)

6.Turn,basteandhemonesideofthehoop,closingoneendoftheboningchannels.

7.Addtheties—theseneedtobestronglystitchedon.Onthewrongsideofthehoop,placethetiewiththerawedgejustinfromthehemmededgeofthehoop.Stitchacrosstheend.Donotcutyourthread.Foldthetapetotheoutside,overtherawedge.Hemstitchtheside,backstitchacrosstheend,hemstitchtheoppositeshortside,thenhemstitchtheotherlongendtosecureitallinplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

8.Onthebottomtie,foldthelongtapeinhalf,markthecenterandmatchthispointtothehemmededgeatthebottomhoopchannel.Backstitchsecurelyinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

9.Inserttheboning.Cliptheendsabout½to¾inch(1.3to2cm)shortoftheendsoftheboningchannelstoallowturningtheedges.

Yourboningmaybeabittoocurly.Toflattenit,spritzlightlywithwaterandweighitdownwithbooksuntildryandflatter.

10.Hemtheremainingsideovertheboningchannelsandaddthetiesasbefore.

11.Foratrimwaist,pleatthetopedgedowntoabout10to11inches(25to28cm)withseveralknifepleats.Thisisnotanexactscience.Wetook3pleatsoneachsidetowardthepocketslit.Matchtheedgesofthepocketslittogetherandtackstitchtohold.

12.Findthecenterofthewaisttapeandmatchthispointtothepocketslit.Applythetapetotheoutsideofthehoop,overlappingtherawedgebyhalfthewidthofthetape.Hemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

13.Foldthetapeovertherawedgetoencaseit,andhemstitchontheinside.

14.Ontheinsideofthehoops,pullthetiesoneachhooptoaboutthesamearcandtieinabow.Youcanadjustthespringofthehoopsbytyingthesetapestighterorlooser.

15.Nowyougettodothisallagainforthesecondhoop!

1760sTheSacquePetticoat

Petticoatsmadetofitoverunderstructuresarealittledifferentthanyouraverageall-one-lengthpetticoat.Thispetticoatfeaturesashapedtopandstraighthemandismeasuredoverthesidehoopscreatedinthischapter.Rememberthemeasuringforthepetticoatmustbedoneonthebodyordressformoverallunderpinningsandwiththeintendedshoeson.

MATERIALS•3yards(3m)of60”(153.4-cm)-widefabric(Youryardagewillvarydependingonfabricwidth,model’sheightandsizeofunderstructures.)

•2yards(2m)offabricforpetticoattrim(optional)•Silkthread(#30forseams,gathersandtopstitchingand#50forhemming)

•3.5+yards(3.5+m)¾–1”(2–2.5-cm)-widecottonorlinentape

ASSEMBLY1.Fromwaisttofloor,measurethecenterfront,centerbackandsidelengthoverthehoops.Yoursidemeasurementwillbelongerthanyourfrontandback.

2.Determinehowhighyourhemwillbefromthefloorandsubtractthismeasurementfromthecenterfront,centerbackandsidenumbers.Addseamallowanceforthehem.

3.Cutallofyourpanelsbylengthaccordingtothesidemeasurement,andbywidthtocreateatotalhemmeasurementbetween100and130

inches(2.4to3.3m).

Dependingonyourfabricwidth,youmayneedtocutandseamyourpanelstogetherorcreatefauxseams.Forourpetticoat,ourfabricwas60inches(153.4cm)wide,sowehaveusedonefullpanelforthebackandoneforthefront,trisectingeachandstitching¼-inch(6.35-mm)-narrowfalseseamstogivethelookofa6-paneledpetticoat.

4.Markthecenterpointatthetopwaistedgeofthepetticoatfront.Subtractthecenterfrontmeasurementfromthesidemeasurement,andmeasuredownthisamountfromthecenterpoint.Mark.

5.Drawalinefromthetopsideedgeofthepetticoatpaneltothecentermarkyoujustmade,andbackuptotheoppositesideofthetopedgeofthepetticoat,creatingaV.Youcansmooththisintoasoftcurve.Repeatsteps4and5forthebackandcutthisVshapeout.

6.Applyalltrimtothefrontofyourpetticoatbeforemakingup.

7.Stitchonesideseamofthepetticoatusingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges(6to8stitches

perinch[2.5cm]).Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslitandhemtheseedgestofinishthem.

8.Pleatthefrontandbackofthepetticoatatthewaist.Youarepleatingalongthecurvesyoucutearlier,butbesuretolinethepleatsupasiftheywerecutonthestraight.Leave½inch(1.3cm)seamallowanceontheunsewnsideseam.

9.Forthefront,beginknifepleats2inches(5cm)fromcenter,workingthepleatstowardthesideseams.

10.Fortheback,boxpleatinwardatthecenterback,thencontinueknifepleatstowardcenterbackonbothsides,workingouttothesideseams.Basteacrossthefrontandbackwaistpleatstoholdthem.

11.Stitchthesecondsideseam,usingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges.Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslit.Turnandhemtheedgesofthepocketslit.

12.Ontherightsideofthepleatedpetticoatwaistapplythecottontaperightsidestogether,matchingtherawedgeatthetop.Hemstitchthe

bottomedgeofthetapeinplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

13.Turnthetapefullytotheinsideandhemstitchthefreeedgeinplace.Repeatfortheback.

14.Hemthebottomofthepetticoat(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Done!Thefinalresultwillbeapetticoatthatfitsoveryourpockethoopswithaperfectlylevelhem.

1760sPinkedTrim!

Oneofthemostfunandiconictypesofeighteenth-centurydecorationispinked trimmings. Pinking became extremely popular in the sixteenthcentury and went in and out of fashion up through the nineteenthcentury.Originally,pinkingwasdonewithsharp,shapedpunchesratherthanshearsorscissors.Thesepunchesaredifficulttofindandtrickytousetoday,butscallopedpinkingshearsareavailableandcanbeusedto

createaconvincinglook.Pinkededgesweremostcommonlyscalloped,oftenwithsmallscallopswithinlargerscallops.Whilezigzagpinkingpunchesexisted,itisbesttowield your zigzag pinking shears with caution to avoid a too-modernlook.Tightlywovensilkfabricisthebestfabricforpinking.Thedenseweaveandstiffhandallowedthepinkededgetofrayverylittle.Wedonotseepinking on cotton or linen garments. These materials fray too easily,resultinginamessylook,andsocottonorlinentrimsfeaturehemmededges.Finally,whilewe’veshownthemethodforwhip-gatheringpinkedtrim,there are other treatments too. Try box pleats, knife pleats, stuffedpleats, undulating serpentine ruffles, flipped ruffles, offset gathers,appliedfly-fringeontopof thegatheredruffles, loops,puffsandbows.Youroptionsaretrulylimitless!

MATERIALS•1–3yards(1–3m)fabric(gatheringratio1:2)•Silkthread#30

READY,SET,PINK!1.Foldyourfabricyardageinhalfselvagetoselvageandtracethetemplateontoyourfabric,movingitalongtorepeatthepattern.Whentracingoutmultiplelinesoftrim,giveyourselfspacebetweenthescallopededgestobeabletoworktheshearslater.

2.Pinthroughthecenterofthefabricstripstoholdthetwolayerstogether,thencutthescallopswithyourscallopedshears.Thisisapain,buttheresultisworthit.

3.Forsinglerowgatheredtrim:foldthestripinhalflengthwiseandrunawhipgatheringstitchalongthefoldededge.

4.Ifyourtrimratiois2to1,whipgatherstitch12inches(30.5cm)andpullupthestitchtogatherthetrimdownto6inches(15.2cm),thentackstitchtoholdinplace.Carryonwiththesamethread,12inches(30.5cm)atatime.Ifyouaredoingaratioof1.5to1thisequals12inches(30.5cm)gathereddownto8inches(20.3cm).

5.Fordoublerowgatheredtrim:drawoutbothfoldlinesoncuttrimpieces.

•Foldthefirstrowandwhipstitchoverthefold,butdonotgatherup.

•Foldthesecondrowandwhipstitchoverthefold,stoppingatthesamepointasthefirstrow.

•Gatherupboththreadssimultaneouslytofityourdesiredratio.•Individuallylockstitchbothrowsinplace,andcontinueoninthismanneruntilcomplete.

6.Aftergatheringupthetrim,presstherufflesopenwithyouriron.

7.Pinthegatheredtrimwhereyoulikeonthegownorpetticoatandprickstitchinthegutterofthewhipgatherswithsmallrunningstitches.Fordouble-gatheredtrim,stitchbothlines.

1760sTheSacqueStomacher

Thestomacherofagownwasatonceamethodofclosureandavehicleformoretrim.Wehavechosentomimictrimdesignsseeninportraitureforoursacque,butyouhaveanendlessarrayofoptionswhenitcomestohowyouwishtotrimyourown.Justrememberthatyoudoneedtobeabletopinitintoplace—youdon’twantyourbowstobeintheway!Finally,whilewe’veincludedagriddedpatternforthestomacher(here),wedorecommendthatyoutakeyourownmeasurementstoensureaproperfit.

MATERIALS•1yard(1m)fashionfabric•½yard(0.5m)linenbuckram•½yard(0.5m)linenorcotton•Silkthread(#30forconstructionand#50forhemmingbows)

ASSEMBLY1.Measurethelengthandwidthneededforthestomacherorfollowourpatternhere.Thelengthshouldbefromthetopedgeofthestaystojustbelowthe“points”ofthebodicefrontedges.Thewidthshouldbeacrossthebustandacrossthewaistwithanadditional1inch(2.5cm)addedonbothsidesforthegownfrontedgestooverlap.Add½inch(1.3cm)seamallowance.

2.Cut1layeroflinen,1layeroflinenbuckramand1layerofthefashionfabric.

3.Tomakelinenbuckram,liberallypaintmedium-weightlinenwithgumtragacanthandallowtodryinthesun.Doitoutside.Thisstuffstinks.

4.Cutofftheseamallowanceofthelinenbuckrampiecesandpinorbastebothlayerstogether.Turninhalfoftheseamallowanceonthefashionfabricandbaste.

5.Centerthelinenpiecesonthefashionfabricwithevenseamallowanceonalledges.Pintohold.

6.Foldthestraighttopedgeofthefashionfabricovertherawedgeofthelinenbuckramandhemstitch.Continueworkingthesidesandbottomedge.Foldintheremainingseamallowance,coveringtherawedgeofthelinenbuckram.

7.Atthebottomcurve,withalooserunningstitch,gatherandeasethefashionfabricaroundthebottom.Pinasyougo,thenhemstitchinplace(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),catchingjustthelinenbuckram.Makesuretokeepthestomacherabsolutelyflattoavoidweirdtensionissueswiththefashionfabric.

8.Decorate!Therearesomanydifferentwaystodecorateyoursacquestomacher.Bows,lace,embroidery,ruffles,flyfringe,younameit.Weused5-LoopBows(here)andpinkedruffles(here)forours,butdon’tbeafraidtoexperimentandreallystackthosetrimson.

1760s5-LoopBows

ThisbowconfigurationiscopiedfromPortraitofaLadybyFrancisCotes.Five-loopbowsareconstructed,nottied.Forthistutorial,eachbowwillusetwopiecesofribbonstitchedtogether.Useyour5-LoopBowstodecorateyourgownstomacherandsleeves.

MATERIALS•1yard(1m)of3”(7.6-cm)-wideribbon(hemmedtaffetaorsilkribbon)perbow

•Silkthread(#30gathersand#50forhemming)

ASSEMBLY1.Cuttwopiecesofribbonapproximately19inches(48.3cm)longand12inches(30.5cm)long.Thelengthandwidthofyourribbonwilldeterminethesizeofyourbow—forsmallerbows,useashorterlengthofribbon;forlarger,uselongerribbon.

2.Withthelongerlengthofribbon,rollthefirstloopovermatchingthe

rawendtoaboutonethirdofthewaydowntheribbon.Doafinerunningstitchthroughbothlayershalfwaybetweentherawedgeandfold.Drawupthethreadandtackstitchinplace.Donotcutthethread.

3.Findthelengthofthesecondloopbyrollingituptowardwhatwillbethecenterofyourbow.Justmarkthislengthwithyourfingersorapin,thenopenflatagain.

4.Doafinerunningstitchatthispoint,drawupthethread,rolltheloopbackuptothebaseofthefirstloopandtackstitchinplace.

5.Fortheremaining2loops,rolltheshortlengthofribbonintoaloop,lappingtheends.Runafinegatheringstitchacrossthisjointhen,withoutcuttingthethread,useagatheringstitchontheoppositeside,stitchingintheoppositedirection.Pullthethreadtogatherupbothsidestogetherandtackstitchthecenterinplace.

6.Placethe2-loopbowbehindthe3-loopbowandtackstitchthebowstogetherfrominsidetheloops.

1760sTheSacqueGown

Aswithallofourgowns,thesacquebodiceliningisfittedonthebodyandthegownisconstructedontop.Theliningforthesacqueplaysanimportantroleforthelook,fitandwearabilityofthegown,formingastructuralfoundationforthefree-hangingbackpleatswhilecontrollingfullnessandfitatthesides.

MATERIALS•6–8yards(6–8m)silk(taffeta,satin,damask,jacquard)orfloralprintedcotton

•1–2yards(1–2m)linen•Silkthread(#30forseams,gathersandprickstitchingand#50forhemming)

•Linenthread(60/2)—optional

BODICEANDFIRSTFITTINGThesacquebodicelining(here)formsthefoundationuponwhichtheflowing,“loose”-lookinggownisbuilt.Thoughsimilartotheliningpiecesoftheothergownsinthisbook,thesacqueliningfeaturesadjustabletiesinbackandtwoshoulderstrapfittingseams.

1.Onthebackliningpieces,measuredown4to4½inches(10to11.4cm)atthecenterbackandmark.Thismeasurementdetermineshowdeepthestitchedbackpleatswillbelater.

2.Foldthelininginhalfandcutinabout1inch(2.5cm)fromthefolduptothemark.Opentheliningbackupandhembackall3sidesoftheresultingrectangularcutout(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

3.Attach3to4lacesevenlydownthebackopeningandstitchintoplace.Tiethebacklacesinloosebowssothebackliningliesevenandsmooth.

4.Roughlypintheliningpiecestogetheratthefrontandbackshoulderseamsandthesideseams.Thenputthebodiceonthemodeloveralltheunderpinnings.

5.Pinthefrontedgesofthebodicetothestaysintheirintendedplacementandbeginworkingaroundthebody,pinningandadjustingthefrontedgesandshoulderstrapsuntilthebodiceliningiscorrectlyplacedatthewaist,frontandcenterback.

6.Nowpinchupthesidebackseamsandpin,alternatingbetweenbothsidesofthebody.Smoothandpinuntilthebodiceliningfitssnuggly,thenmarkalongthewaistlinewithapencil,chalkorpins.

7.Measureforthestomacheracrossthebustandwaistatthefrontforthewidthandlengthofthestomacher.

8.Unpintheshoulderstrapsandbodicefrontedgesandcarefullyremovetheliningfromthemodel.Donotremovethepinsinthesidebackseamsoranymarkingthewaist.

9.Turnupandbastetheseamallowanceonthebodicefrontedges,necklineandwaist.Atthewaist,turnuptheexcessalongthewaistmarkingsyoumadeearlier.

10.Withthebodiceliningflat,stitchthesidebackseamsfromtheinsidewithafinehemorwhipstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

11.Presstheseamallowanceopenandtrimtheexcess,leavingagood½inch(1.3cm)allowance.

12.Workingflat,aligntherawedgesofthebodicefrontfashionfabricandliningalongtheshoulderstrapedgeandarmscye.Pintohold.

13.Smooththefashionfabricovertheliningworkingouttowardthefrontedge.Turnundertheseamallowancealongthebodicefront,necklineandwaistedgesandstitchtotheliningusingasmallrunningstitchorhemstitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leavethewaistfabricandliningfreeabout4to5inches(10to12.7cm)fromthesidebackseam.

14.Next,weneedtomakethebeautifulboxpleatsfortheback.Weused

4panelsof20-inch(50-cm)-widefabrictocreatethebackofthegown,eachseamedtogetherwithamantuamaker’sseamforrawcutedgesandarunningbackstitchforselvageedges.Theoverallwidthneedstobequitewide—atleast80inches(2m)wideormoreforbroaderbacks.

15.Workingflatonyourtableandoverthebodicebacklining,makethebackboxpleatsasshownhere,makingsurethatallpleatsareonthestraightofgrain.Theinteriorpleatsatthecenterbackarenotasdeepasthepleatstotheside.Inearliergownsthepleatsarewideracrosstheshouldersandinlatergownstheyarenarrower.Keepthisinmindwhenyou’remakinganddesigningyourgown.

16.Afteryoucreatetheboxpleats,ateachsidemakeathirdhiddenpleatthatwilllieunderneaththesecondpleat.Itwillnotbevisibleatthetopoftheboxpleats,butyouwillseeitatthesidewhenthepleatsflowawayfromthebody.Thisthirdpleatisextremelycommoninsacquegownsandistheretokickoutthepleatsfromthe

bodyandgivethatprettyline.Don’tskipitlestyouruntheriskofdroopypleats!

17.Placethepleatedfashionfabriccenteredoverthebodicelining,wrongsidestogether.Pin,thenprickstitchthepleatsthroughalllayersateither⅛inchor¼inch(3or6mm)squareanddowntothat4-to4½-inch(10-to11.4-cm)markyoumadeinstep1.

18.Oncecomplete,flipthebodicelining-sideup.Herringbonestitchthepleatsfromthebackfromedgetoedge,usingthetopoftheopenpanelbackasaguide.

19.Withthebacklaidoutrightsideupandalllayerssmoothandstraight,pinbeneaththebackpleatsjusttothesideofthecenterbackopeninginthebodicelining.Prickstitchthefashionfabrictotheliningparalleltothecenterbackopening.Thiscreatesasmooth,fittedbackwhileallowingthepleatstoflowoutfromthebody.Makesureyoukeepthisonthestraightanditdoesn’tpullortwistoryou’llhavetopickthestitchesoutanddoitagain.

20.You’llnoticeyouhavealotofexcessfabrictothesidesoftheback.Smooththebackofthegownoverthesidebackseamontheliningandpin.Cutouttheexcessfabricatthebodicesideseamedge,thensquareitoffabout1to2inches(2.5to5cm)abovethewaistline,leavingthelowerportionoftheextrafabricforyourskirt.

21.Atthesidebackseam,turnundertherawedgeofthefrontbodicefashionfabric,lapitoverthebodicebackrawedgeandpinitintoagentlecurve.Repeatontheothersideandmakesurethatbothseamsarecurvingsymmetricallyandarethesamedistancefromthecenterback.Theseouterseamsdonotneedtolineupwiththebodiceliningsidebackseams.

22.Prickstitchthesidebackseamsdownusingeither⅛or¼inch(3or6mm)square.Whenyoureachabout1½inches(3.8cm)fromthewaist,continueprickstitchingbutdonotcatchthelining.Youwilllaterslideyourskirtpleatsintothispocket.

SKIRTPANELSANDSECONDFITTINGNowcomesthetrickiestpartofthesacquegown—fittingtheskirts.Becauseofthelargeshapeofthehoops,sacquegownswereextended,arranged,pleatedandsmoothedtogracefullyfitoverthemwhilealsocreatingacanvasforthetrimmings.Thesetechniquesmustbedoneonthebodyordressformovertheunderpinnings.

1.Cutyourfrontskirtpanels.Weusedthehistoricwidthforsilkof20inches(50.8cm)andthewaist-to-floormeasurementtakenforthepetticoatpreviously(here).

2.Thegoreiscutfromthefrontskirtpanel,thenflippedandseamed(seehere).Atthetopedgeoftheskirtpanel,markapproximately6inches(15.2cm)infromonesideand2inches(5cm)attheoppositeend.Connectthesetwomarkswithastraightlinetodrawthegore.Thissmall-but-mightygoreaddedtothesideofthesacqueskirtscreatesextralengthinthehemthatallowsthetraintolayproperly.Don’tskipit,darlings!

3.Cutalongtheline,thenflipthegoresothe6-inch(15.2-cm)widthisnowatthebottomoftheskirtpanel,matchingangledcuttoangledcut.Usingamantuamaker’sseam,stitchthegoretothefrontskirtpanel(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)freeatthetopforthepocketslit.

4.Finishthepocketslitedgeswithanarrowhemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Thiswillbealittletrickywherethemantuamaker’sseambegins.Takeyourtime.Presstheseamsandpocketslithems.

5.Withamantuamaker’sseam,stitchthefrontskirtpanelandgoretothebackskirtandpress.

6.Turnandbastethefrontlongedgeofthefrontskirtpanels¼inch(6mm)topreparetheskirtforthefitting.

7.Nowwe’regoingtoexplainthesecondgownfitting.Startwithputtingthegownonthemodeloverallunderpinnings,andpininplace.Withtheshoulderstrapsroughlypinnedatthefront,pullthestrapsovertheshouldertomeettheshoulderseamatback.Pinchthetwoedgestogetherandpin.

8.Adjusttheshoulderstrapseamonthefront,pinchingandpinningasneededtogetaperfectlysmooth,tightfit.Don’tworryaboutkeepingtherawedgesevenhere—workoutanygapping,excessorloosenessatthisfrontseam.

9.Holdthefrontedgeoftheskirtuptothewaistsothefrontedgeshangmostlystraightdowntothefloor.Youwillnotmatchthetopedgeoftheskirtpaneltothecurvedwaistseamofthebodice;itwilloverlap.Pulltheskirtupfromthetopandpinatthebodicewaistseamuntiltheskirtpanelhangssmoothlyoverthepetticoat.Thiswillcreatean

excesswedgeofskirtatthewaistseam,butdon’tworryaboutityet.

10.Pinthepocketslittogetheratthetopedgeandplaceit1to2inches(2.5to5cm)behindthepetticoatpocketslit.Thisseemscounterintuitive,butthisplacementisimportantforthevolumeoverthepockethoops.

11.Pleattheexcessofthefrontskirtpanelatthewaistbacktowardthepocketslitwith2to3pleats.Placethesepleatsfarenoughbacksoasnottointerferewithanytrimyouplanforthefrontoftheskirt.Theideaistocreateasmooth,flat-ishcanvasontheskirtfrontpanelsforyourtrim.

12.Thetopofthefrontskirtpanelwillnowhaveanobviouswedgeshape.Pinalongthewaistedgeofthebodicetomark.Youwilllaterfolddownthisexcessandappliquestitchittothebodice,sodon’tcutitoff!Withyourpreferredmarkingmethod,markthebodicewaistedgeontheskirtpanels.

13.TurnthefrontedgeofthefrontskirtpanelbacktocreatetheinvertedVopening.Turnitbackasmuchoraslittleasyoulike—thisispersonaltaste.Thefrontskirtpanelsonsacquesareoftenangledopenatthefrontedgestoshowoffthetrimmedpetticoat.Thiscutawayisvitaltothedrapeofthesacqueskirtsandinachievingtherightsilhouette.Don’tworryaboutyourstitchesbeingvisiblefromtheturnback,thispartofthegownwillbecoveredwithtrimlater.

14.Oncesatisfied,carefullyremovethegownfromthemodel,keepingtheskirtpleats,edgepinsandshoulderstrappinsinplace.

15.Securelystitchtheshoulderstrapsatthebackandfrontseamsontheinsidewithafinehemorbackstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

16.Workingflat,runningstitchthefoldedfrontskirtpaneledgesintoplace,keepingthevisiblestitchsmall(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

17.Markthepocketslitplacementonthebodicewithapin,thenunpintheskirtsfromthebodicecompletelybutleavetheskirtpleatspinnedinplace.

18.Lapthebodicewaistedgeovertheskirt,followingthewaistmarkingontheskirtascloselyaspossible.Itmaynotbeexact,buttaketheaverageline.Pintheskirtsinplaceandadjustthepleatsifnecessarytoavoidbubbling.Fromtheoutside,appliquestitchthebodicewaistlinetotheskirts,stoppingatthepocketslit(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

19.Pleattheremainingbackskirtpanelin3to4pleatstowardthecenterback,matchingtheremainingspacebetweenthepocketslitandthesidebackseam.

20.Tucktherawedgeofthebackskirtpanelpleatsupbetweenthebodicefashionfabricandlining.Appliquestitchfromtheoutside(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])andhemstitchtheliningontheinside(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

21.Thereareanumberofwaystofinishthebackofasacquegown,frombindingthetoppleatsinthesamemannerastheEnglishGown(here),tosimplyturningtotheinsideandstitchinginplace.Bothareaccurateforsacques,sofeelfreetousewhichevermethodyouprefer.Here,wehavefoldedthebacktopnecklinetotheinsideabout½inch(1.3cm)andlooselybasteddown.

22.Cutastripoffashionfabriconthestraightabitmorethanthelengthoftheturnededgeandalittlemorethanthewidthneededtofullycovertherawedge.Addseamallowance.

23.Turnupandbastetheseamallowanceonalledgesofthisstrip,thenapplythestripovertherawnecklineedge,hemstitchingittojustthelining(6stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Itdoesn’thavetobepretty;itjustneedstocovertherawedgesoftheneckline.

SLEEVES,THIRDFITTING,HEMANDTRIMThroughouttheeighteenthcentury,sleevewidthsevolve.Broadandfullintheearlierdecadesandnarrowandtightinthelater,1760ssacquesleeveswererightbetween—nottoofullandnottootight.Hereyouwilllearnasecondmethodforsleeveconstruction,alongwiththeeighteenth-centurysleeve-settingtechniqueonthebody.Lastly,wewillfinishupthegownwithtrimapplicationandafacedhem.

1.Layoutthesleeveswithleftandrightsleeveswrongsidestogether.Cutofftheseamallowanceofthebottomedge/cuffofthesleeveliningtoreducebulkinlaterfinishing.

2.Withtheliningatopthefashionfabric,foldjusttheliningovertomatchtherawedgesandpin.Marktheseamallowanceonthelining,thenbastethethreelayerstogether.

3.Nowturnupandbastetheseamallowanceontheoppositeedgeofthefashionfabric.Lapthisedgeovertheotherthree,pinandprickstitchthroughalllayers⅛x⅛inchor¼x¼inch(3x3mmor6x6mm).Placeyourhandinsidethesleeveasyoustitchtoavoidsewingthroughtheotherside.

4.Turnthesleeveinsideoutandfinishtheelbow/cuffbybastinguptheseamallowanceofthefashionfabric,thenfoldingitupagainovertherawedgeoftheliningandhemminginplace(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).It’sokayifyougothroughallthelayers.Therufflewillhidethestitching.

5.Sleeveruffleswereanotherfacetoftheextravaganceofeighteenth-centurysacquegownsandcouldbesingle,doubleortrebleruffles.We’vechosenadoubleruffle,pinkedandwhipgathered,butletyourcreativityguideyouinyourchoiceoffluff.Forpinkedtaffetaruffles,seehere.

6.Ifyouarecreatingdoubleortrebleruffles,laythemalltogetherwiththesmallestastheouterruffle.Matchthetopedges.Pinorbastetoholdthelayerstogether,thenturnupandhembothshortendswiththetworufflesasone.

7.Fromthewrongside,foldalongthegatheringlinesandruntwolinesofwhipgatheringstitchesoverthefold.Stitchbothfoldsashere.Gatheruptherufflesbydrawingupboththreadstogether.Adjusttofitthesleevesandpinintoplace.

8.Pin,thenprickstitchtothesleevethroughbothgatheringlines,andcarefullyconnectthesleeveruffleattheshortendswithafineappliquestitch(6stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

9.Nowit’stimeforthefinalfitting.Startbyputtingonthegownwithallitsunderpinnings.Thenpullthesleeveoverthearmandpinittothetopoftheshouldertoanchorit.

10.Startingatthefrontarmpitcrease,workyourwayunderthearm,foldinginthesleeveseamallowanceandpinninginplace.Youmightbetemptedtonot“getupinthere”butremember:thehigherthearmscye,thegreaterthemobility.Justbecarefulwithyourpinningifyou’refittingthegownonarealperson.Continuepinningtothebackofthearmandaroundthetopofthearmpitcrease.

11.Onthefront,smoothandpinthesleeveovertopoftheshoulder,workingtowardtheback.Thereisnoneedtoturntheseamallowanceonthesleevehead—itwillbecoveredbythefashionfabricshoulderstraplater.Anyexcessfabricleftinthesleeveheadshouldbepleatedortuckedtowardtheback,betweentheshoulderpointandarmpitcrease.

12.Checkthatbothsleevesareeven,thatthebackseamsaresymmetricalandthatbothsleevesliesmoothlywithnorucking,twistingorweirdness.Gotweirdness?RefertoTroubleshootingheretoidentifyandcorrectanysleevefittingissues.Onceyou’refinishedwiththefitting,removethegownfromthemodel.

13.Nowtostitchthesleeves.First,verycarefullyconverttheunderarmpinsintotheverticalpinningmethodshown.Markthestitchlinewithapencil,makingsurebotharmsmatch.

14.Oncecompleted,backstitchtheunderarmintoplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Ontheexterior,withbigbackstitches,stitchthetopofthesleevetothelining,includingthepleats.Thesestitchesdon’thavetobepretty.

15.Nextlaythefashionfabricshoulderstrapinplacewithenoughseamallowanceoverlappingtheshoulderstrapseams,neckedgesandsleeveedge.Pininplace.Turnundertheseamallowanceonallfoursides.Appliquestitchtheshortedgeatthefrontshoulderstrapseam(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),thenprickstitch⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)theshoulderedge.Appliquestitchthebackofthestrapinplaceoverthebackshoulderstrapseam.Finally,withahemorfinerunningstitch,attachthestraparoundtheneckline(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Finally,cutawaytheexcessfabricinthearmscyeunderarm.

16.Nowit’stimetofinishtheskirtofthegownwithafacedhem.Withthegownskirtslaidoutflat,drawastraightlinefromtheedgeofthefrontskirtpaneltothesidebackskirtseam.Addseamallowanceandcut.Thiscreatesagentleslopefromthefrontofthegowntothetrain.Ifyoursacquedoesnothaveatrain,youcanskipthisstep.

17.Determinethewidthofyourhemfacing—thisshouldbeabitwiderthanthelengthofskirtthatdragsonthefloor,sothetopedgedoesnotmakecontactwiththeground.Addseamallowancetobothedges.

18.Onthestraightofgrain,cutyourhemfacingthewidthfromthepreviousstepbythelengthoftheentiregownhem.Youmayneedtopiecefabrictogethertogetthefulllengthneeded.Thereisnoneedtocutshapedfacingseventhoughthehemofthegownisangled.

19.Turnandbasteuptheseamallowanceonalledgesofthefacing.Turnupandbastethebottomedgeofthegownskirtaccordingtoyourseamallowancetoo.

20.Applythefacingtothebottomofthegownskirt,wrongsidetowrongside,matchingthebottomedgesandskirtfrontedgeswiththefacingset⅛inch(3mm)infromthegownskirtedge.Stitchthesetwolayerstogetherwithaveryfinerunningstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

21.Smooththefacingandgownskirtupward,pinningatintervals.Tucktheexcessalongthetopedgeofthefacing,pinninginplace.It’sbettertotakeacoupleoftucksineachpanelthanonelargetuck.Justbesureeverythinglookssmoothandlovelyontheoutside.Oncepinnedintoplace,stitchthetopedgeofthefacingintoplacewithafinerunningorhemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Press.

22.Nowit’stimetoapplythetrimtoyourgown.Ourgowntrimswerecreatedusingthepinkingandgatheringmethoddetailedonpages85,usingasingle-gathered,narrowertrimforthenecklineandadouble-gathered,widertrimforthegownskirt.

23.Startwiththenarrowtrim.Sinceourswasonewidth,westarteditatthebeginningoftheshouldersandpinneditdownthefrontofthebodicetotheedgeoftheskirt.Stitchitdownusingalargelyspacedoutprickstitch.

24.Withtheserpentinetrim,makesurethetrimissymmetricalonbothskirtpanels.It’seasiertoplacetheselarge-scaletrimswiththegownlaidoutflat.Measure,adjustandpinasyougo.Becarefulnottopinthroughtothebackofthegown.Whenplacingyourtrimontheskirt,beawareofwherethetrimissittingontheskirtpanels.Makesurethatthetrimdoesn’twanderofftowardthebackofthegown!Oncesatisfied,prickstitchthetrimintoplaceinthegrooveofbothwhipgathers.Trimoffanyexcessontheends,foldandappliquestitchintoplacetopreventfraying.

25.Lastofall,makeandstitchalovelybowtoaddtothesleeverufflesatthecrookoftheelbow.Forthe4-LoopBowand5-LoopBow,seehereand90.

Hey,guesswhat?You’redone!

1760sRibbonChokerNecklace

Thiseasychokerwasaclassicadditiontowomen’sensemblesinthe1760sandearly1770s.They’reeasytomakeandsupercute!Thisisjustonewaytomakeachoker,butyouroptionsareendless:pinkedsilk,lace,bows,etc.Findanexampleinaportraityoulikeandbecreative!The silk ribbon in this tutorial was generously provided by BritexFabrics,SanFrancisco.

MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)2”(5-cm)-widesilksatinribbon•Silkthread(#30)•½”(1.3-cm)-widelinenorcottontapethecircumferenceofyourneck•⅛–¼”(3–6mm)-widesilkribbonfortiesintheback—enoughtotieabowplusalittleextra

ASSEMBLY1.Basteandhemtheendsoftheribbonandcottontape.

2.Foldtheribboninhalflengthwiseandrightsidestogether,thenwhipoverthefoldwithheavyweightsilkthread.Pullupthethread,

gatheringtheribbontofitthelengthofthecottontapeandsecurethethread,thenopenuptheribbonandgentlypressflatwiththeiron.

3.Prickstitchthegatheredribbontothecottontapethroughthemiddleofthegatherssothestitchesarenotvisiblefromtheoutside(6stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

4.Foldtheedgeoftheribbonandsecurelywhipittotheedgeofthelinentape.

5.Cutyourribbontieswithenoughlengthtotieinabow,plusalittleextra.Stitcheachtiesecurelytoeachendofthechoker.

1760sOrganzaandLaceApron

Apronsweremorethanfunctionalgarmentsthroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury.Womenworethemasawaytofinishthelookoftheirensemble,furtheradorningthemselvesinmoresilk,laceandembroidery.Thedrawnwaistonthisapronisuniquelysuitedtosilkorganza.Wedo

notrecommendthismethodforlinenorcottonaprons,asitwillappearbulkyandunflattering,butthedelicatelacepairedwithlighter-than-airorganzamakesforanattractiveandtexturalaccessory.

MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)silkorganza•4yards(4m)lacefordecoratingtheedgeoftheapron•1.5yards(1.5m)Jacob’sLadderBeadingLaceforthetop•Silkthread(#50)•2yards(2m)of¼”(6-mm)-widesilkribbonforwaistties

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthesilkorganzaaccordingtodiagram(here).

2.Basteupandhemallfoursidesusingfinerunningstitches(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotrollhemthisorganza,asyouareapplyinglaceoverthetopandneedaflatsurfacetoworkwith.

3.Laythelaceoverthetopofthehemmededgeandattachwithfinerunningstitches(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Takesmalltucksatintervalswhenapplyingthelacetopreventitfrombucklingandhangingfunny.

4.Whenyoureachthecorner,easethelacearounditbytakingtinytucks.Don’tskimponthelacewhenturningthecorner.Thereneedstobeenoughforthecornertolieflat.

5.ApplytheJacob’sLadderBeadingLacealongthetopedgeoftheapronusingfinerunningstitches.Threadwiththenarrowsilkribbonandgathertheaprontosuityourpreferenceswhenworn.

1760s–1770sOrganzaandLaceCap

Thiscapisinspiredbyimagesfromtheearly1770s.6,7It’sagoodtransitionaldesignlinkingthe1760sand1770s,andiswell-suitedtothemoderatehairstylesoftheseyears.Thecap’ssmallsizewillalsoaccommodatemodernshorthairstyles,too.

MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)silkorganza•2yards(2m)of¼”or½”(6-mmor1.3-cm)lace•18”(45.7cm)cordingorcandlewicking•Silkthread(#30gatheringandseamsand#50hemming)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutthefabricaccordingtothepattern(here).Bastethecauledges⅛to¼inch(3to6mm)onallsides.

2.Foldthecaulinhalflengthwise,andusinganawlpokeaholejustabovethebottombastededge.

3.Withsilkthread#30,whiptheeyeletopen,andpoketheholewiththeawlagaintorounditout.

4.Onthewrongsideofthecaul,backstitchthecordorcandlewickingtoeachsideofthestraightbottomjustabovethebastededge.Pullthetailsthroughthehole.

5.Turnupthebottomedgeofthecaulagainoverthecordandfinelyhem,makingsurenottocatchthecord.Turntheremainingbastededgesofthecaulupagainandfinelyhemwithafinerunningorhemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

6.Basteandfinelyhemallsidesofthebandwithnarrowturningsabout⅛to¼inch(3to6mm)wide.

7.Basteandfinelyhemallsidesoftheruffleswithnarrowturningsabout⅛to¼inch(3to6mm)wide.

8.Hemtheshortendsofthelace,thenattachittothefacesideoftherufflewithfinerunningstitches,takingsmalltucksasyougotoeasethelacearoundthecurvededge.

9.Oncethelaceisattached,pleatandpintherufflestofittheband.Next,whipstitchtheruffletotheband,catchingalllayersofthepleatsfromthewrongsideofthecap.

10.Matchthecenterpointofthebandandruffletogetherandstitchtoformonelength.

11.Referencingthepattern,markthestraightsidesofthecauljust

wherethesidesbegintocurveintothetopofthecaul.Foldthecaulinhalflengthwiseandpintomarkthehalfwaypointatthetop.

12.Whipstitchoverthehemmededgeofthecaulbetweenthemarkingsfromstep10.Pintheungathered,straightsideofthecaultothebandandthengatheruptherestofthecaultofittherestofthathalfoftheband.

13.Withrightsidestogether,whipstitchthecaultotheband,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.Repeatfortheothersideofthecaul.

14.Trimthecapwithasilkribbonorbow,usingsometackingstitchestoholdthetriminplace.Youcanfindinstructionsforthestandard4-LoopBowhereandthe5-LoopBowhere.

1760sOrganzaandLaceTrebleStacked

SleeveFlounces

Thesethreedelicatelayersaddtothefluffy,frothygoodnessthatissucha hallmark of Georgian dress. Our method here uses layers of silkorganzatrimmedinlace,butthepatternmayalsobeusedasaguideforall-laceflouncesorfinelyhemmedcottonorlinenruffles.

MATERIALS•2yards(2m)silkorganza•10yards(10m)lace•Silkthread(#30gathersandseamingand#50hemming)•1–1.5yards(1–1.5m)linenorcottontape

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepatternandbasteandhemall6flounceswithfinerunningstitches(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Alsohemtheendsofthetapethatyouwillattachtheflounces

to.

2.Applythelacewithafinerunningstitch(10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),takingsmalltucksatintervalstoeasethelacearoundthecurvesoftheflounces.Hemtheedgesofthelacerufflesateachend.

3.Lineuptheflouncessoyouhavealeftsideandarightsidewiththeopeningangledtowardtheinsideofyourarm,closesttothebody.Pintheflouncessothattheshortestflounceisontheoutsideandthelongestflounceistheclosesttothearm.Whipstitchthethreelayerstogether,andgatherthemuptofitthelinentape.

4.Withrightsidestogether,whiptheflouncestothetape,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.Finally,tacktherufflesintothegownsleeveliningusinglargehemstitches.

1760sLaceTucker

Duringthe1760s,womenhadmanychoicesfordecoratingthenecklinesoftheirgowns.Eventhoughtheirgownsweretrimmed,theywouldstillwearakerchieforatuckeraroundtheirnecklines.Herewe’vechosenasimple tucker of gathered lace to match the apron and treble elbowflounces. Simple, quick and darling, this tucker is the final step inachievingthe“steppedoutofaportrait”look.

MATERIALS•2yards(2m)lace•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)linen/cottontape•Silkthread(#30)

ASSEMBLY1.Measurethenecklineofyourgownandtheentiretopwidthofthestomacher.Cutthelinentapetofitwithanadditional1-inch(2.5-cm)overlap.

2.Finelyhemtheshortendsofthelaceandthetape.

3.Attachthelacetothelinentapeusingafinerunningstitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Takesmalltucksasyougotogive

dimensionandallowthetuckertocurvearoundtheneckline.

4.Laythetuckerintothenecklineofthegownandattachusingbighemstitches.Makesureyousewthroughonlytheliningofthegown.Withstomacher-frontgowns,attachthetuckeralongthesidesandbackofthenecklineonthegownonly,leavingalengthofthetuckerfreeononeside.Thislengthshouldapproximatelymatchthewidthofyourstomachertopedge.Oncedressed,pullthislooseendacrossthetopofthestomachertotheoppositesideofthegown,tuckingthetapeedgetotheinsideandpinninglightlytoholdthepieceinplace.

HowtoGetDressedandWearYourSacquewithStyle

ASSEMBLY1.Startwithyourshift,stockingsandshoeson.Putonyourunder-petticoat,laceupyourstaysandifyouhaveapocket,tieitonaroundyourwaist.

2.Putonyourhoops:tiethebacktapesatcenterbackandthefronttapesoffcenterwiththebowhookedunderyourstays.Adjustasneededuntilthehoopsarepositionedcorrectlyonyourhips.Tiethetapesatthekneesacrossthebackandfrontloosely—theseshouldn’tbepulling,butdon’tskipthem,astheyarevitaltokeepingthehoopsfromfoldingupwhenyousit.

3.Putonthepetticoatoveryourhead.Tiethebacktapestothefrontandofftotheside,thentiethefronttapestothecenterback.

4.Ifyouhavechosentowearacapthisfineday,putitonnow,pinningitintoplaceoneachside.

5.Next,pinyourstomachertothestays,matchingthetopedgeofthestomachertothetopofyourstays.

6.Putonyourgown,overlappingthefrontedgesofthegownoverthesidesofthestomacher.Pinthefrontedgesofthegowntotheedgesofthestomacherundertherufflessothepinsarehidden.Ifyourgownisabitlooseortightafterpinningthefrontedges,adjustthetiesinthebodicebackliningforasmoothfit.

7.Pullthetailofthelacetuckeracrossthebust,tuckingunderthetopedgeofthestomacher.Pinatthecenterandoppositesidetosecurethetucker.

8.Ifyou’rewearinganapron,putitonnow.Youmaychoosetotuckthecenterfrontoftheapronbeneaththebottomedgeofthestomacher,butoverthestomacherisalsoaccurate.Pullthetiesthroughthepocketslitsandtiebehindyourback,underthebackpleatsofthegown.Youmayneedanextrasetofhandsforthis.

Timetoturnheadsatcourt!

CHAPTERFOUR

TheItalianGown,1770s-1790s

INSPIREDBYCUTOFWOMEN’SCLOTHESDIAGRAMXXII

TheItaliangown,orItaliannight-gown,istheEnglishnameforthefitted gownwith two to four pieces in the back and the separateskirt attached at thewaist.1 Remember the EnglishGown (here)?Though long tagged with just one label, these gowns are not thesame.While the English gown evolves early on from themantua,theItaliangownappearstohavemadeitsdebutaround1776.From the number of extant Italian gowns that survive today, itappears that the Italian gown completely overtook the Englishgowninpopularity.EvenbookslikeTheNewBathGuideandperiodnewspapers implicate that the Italian gown is equal to, andeventually replaced, the sacque gown for full dress in the 1780sand spawned many a 1790s gown too.2 Even though earlyreferences to this gown involve theupper social class, the Italiangown is suitable for every social level, and can be made out ofeverytypeoffabric,fromworstedwooltosilksatin.3

Finally, therewere twomajor aesthetic shifts coincidingwith theItalian gown in the late 1770s and early 1780s that affectedwomen’sfashionfortherestofthecentury.First,wehavetheshiftfrom wide side hoops to large and full false rumps. While earlyItaliangownscouldbewornwithhoops,theyarebestsuitedforafashionablefalserump,asbothstyletrendsseemtoappeararoundthesametime.4Next,sleevestylesandlengthsforwomen’sgownsdiversified. Inthischapter,wedemonstratethe“split”sleeveatafashionableforearmlength,whileinstructionsforfull-length,two-piecesleevescanbefoundonpg143.

Gown,c.1780,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,1976.146a,b

RobeàlaFrançaise(FabricDetail),c.1770,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.2007.211.718

Robeàl’Anglaise(Detail),1770–1780,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.57.24.8a-b

OURCHOICESFORTHEITALIANGOWNPrintedcottonswerealltheragethroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury,includingtheearly1780s,whenthisstyleofItaliangownwastrendy.Forourthirdhistoricfiberwe’vechosenalightweightprintedcottonthatiscloseinstyletoexamplesfromthe1780s.Inthischapter,youwillalsoseeasilkpetticoatleveledoverasplitbumpairedwithourprintedcottongown.Thoughitmightseemoddtoourmodern eyes, colorful printed cottonswere expensive in the eighteenthcentury, and these two fibers were commonly paired.Whilematchingprintedcottonpetticoatsareanexpectedchoice,acolorful,contrastingsilkpetticoat isanexcellentwaytopickupthecolor in the flowersofyourcottongownandtoencouragethatfull-skirtedsilhouette.However,pairingaprintedcottonpetticoatwithasilkgownorjacketdoesn’tquitefit the dominant eighteenth-century aesthetic. Avoid this combination

unlessyouhavesoliddocumentationtobackupyourchoices.Withtheriseoflargefalserumps,weseealotoffabricintheskirtsofItalian gowns, often up to a 120-inch (3-m) hem. Focusing all of thatfabric in the back creates the fashionable fullness over the false rumpandmakestyinguptheskirtsevenmorefluffy.However,thickerfabricsmaywantforlessvolume—bothlooksareaccurate.Lastly,onourItaliangownyouwillseenotrim.Yep,notrim!Thoughnot a hard-and-fast rule, many primary references depict this populardresswithminimalornotrim,andthefluffcomesinotherforms—theapron, the cap, the tucker and sleeve ruffles, each included in thischapter.Gown trims,of course, areup toyou,butwhateveryoudo—andwecannotstressthisenough—donotpinkyourcotton!Don’tdoit!Cottons, historic and modern, are not woven tightly enough to pinkwithout the fabrics raveling terribly, and extant cotton gowns simplydon’t show pinked self-fabric trim. If you want to add trim to yourcottongown,westronglyencourageyoutohemtheedges.

PRINTEDCOTTONDO’SANDDON’TS5,6A beautiful floral-printed cotton is one of the most beloved andrecognizable textiles of the eighteenth century. We all lust after thatperfectprintedchintz,butthepursuitofanaccurateeighteenth-centuryprintcanbeamurkyflowerswampofconfusion.Notallmodernfloralcottonsarecreatedequal.Thevastmajorityofprintedcottonsavailablearetotallywrongforthisperiod.Ittakesskillandknowledgetospotaneighteenth-century-appropriate printed cotton, so study, study, studythoseoriginalgownstotrainyoureye.Hereareourguidelinesforhuntingthatperfectprintedfloralcotton.

Colors=Cash.Themorecolorsinaprintedcotton,themoreexpensiveitwas.Eachcolorrequiredadifferentmordantandaspecialapplication,whichmeantseriouscashforenoughyardageforagown.Someprintedcottonsweremoreexpensivethansilk!Block Printing. Most eighteenth-century prints were block printedratherthanrollerprinted,whichwasnotinventeduntilthe1790s.Blockprintingcreatesauniquelook,sometimesappearingquitesloppy.

Scale. Printed cottonsweremanufactured for varioususes. Large-scaleprints are often earlier, intended for large, early eighteenth-centuryhooped gowns or furniture. Smaller prints became popular after 1750withthechangingsilhouette.KeepItNatural.Whilewhitegroundswerearguablythemostcommonforprintedcottons,andthesafestchoiceforcostumerstoday,youdoseedark brown, Turkey red and blue grounds too. Pastel backgrounds areuncommon.Generally,lookforcolorsthatcanbeachievedwithnaturaldyes.Reds,blues,purplesandyellowswerecommonforflowers.Stemsandleaveswereachievedwithgreen,blackandbrown.Notethatcolorslike purple were caustic in the eighteenth century and turned brownvery quickly—what might appear to be a brown flower could haveoriginallybeenpurple.

Whattoavoidatthefabricstore:

1.IfitlooksVictorian,walkaway.Cabbageroseshavenoplaceintheeighteenthcentury.

2.Avoidtoile.That“toile”fabricthatweallthinkofas“classicallyGeorgian”comesfromcopperplateprintinginventedinthe1750s.Itwasmostcommonlyusedforhomeinteriors,notclothing.

3.Technology.Iftheprintlookslikeitisinspiredbysilkorwooldamaskorjacquard,leaveitbehind.Whatworkedforweavingdidnotalwaysworkforprintedcottons.

4.Exercisecautionwithacertainamountofforgiveness.Thatcarefullyreproducedprintedcottonfromamuseumisasafebet,butthatdoesnotmeanit’sperfect.Beawareofwhatmightnotbecorrect.

Overwhelmed?Fearnot!Printedcottonstripes,polkadotsandsomebasicgeometricshapesarealsoaccuratefortheeighteenthcenturyandareeasilyfoundinyourlocalfabricstores!

1780sUndiesTheFalseRump

Thefirstreferencestofalserumps,orcorkrumps,seemtobeginaround1776, which interestingly coincides with the rise in popularity of theItalian gown.7 These false rumps came in a variety of shapes anddesigns.We’vechosentocreateasplitrump,whichcleverlyallowsthelong center back point of the Italian gown to lie flat to the body andcreates that beautiful and suggestive silhouette thatwas so popular inthisdecade.Ourfalserumpisstuffedwithfeatherdownfromanoldpillow,areadilyavailablematerial today,butgroundcorkappears tobe the stuffingofchoiceintheeighteenthcentury.Bothareaccurateoptions.Aswith all historic silhouettes, proportion is key. For this particularlytricky understructure, we’ve analyzed original fashion prints andportraiture versus satirical prints.We found the normal proportion forthebumtoberoughlydoublethesizeofthewaistwhilesatiricalprintslike“TheBumShop”8showthehipsatalmosttriplethewaist.Thishasresultedinasimpleformulathatshouldcreatetheperfect,flatteringandaccuratesizeforyourfalserump.

MATERIALS•1–2yards(1–2m)tightlywovenlinenorcotton•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)cottonorlinentape•Thread•1oldfeatherthrowpillow

ASSEMBLY1.Beforeconstructingyourfalserump,determineyourwaist-to-bumsize.Here’sourexample:Waist—28inches(71.1cm)Hip(Full)—40inches(101.6cm)28x2=56;56–40=16

2.Yourfalserumpneedstoadd16inches(40.6cm)offullnesstoyourhips.Usethegriddedpattern(here)asaguideandadjustasneeded.

3.Hem(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebottomandsidesoftheskirtwitha½-inch(1.3-cm)hem.Ifthereisagoodselvageonthesidesyoucanskipit.Pleattheskirttohalfofthewaistmeasurement(e.g.,14inches[35.6cm]),andbasteintoplace.Thesedonotneedtobeprettyoreven.Noonewillseethem.

4.Withrightsidestogether,backstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])therumppillowstogether,leavingthetopopen.Clip,turnandpresstheseamssmooth.Youshouldnowhave2rumppillows.

5.Pleattheunderpartofeachrumppillowtofithalfthewidthofthe

skirt.Keepthepillowsflushtothesidesoftheskirtsanddonotworryifthereisabitofagap(¼to½inch[6mmto1.3cm])betweenthebumpillowsatthecenterback.Pinthepillowsinplace,leavingtheupperpartofthepillowopenandfreesoyoucanstufftherumplater.

6.Hemstitchtheskirtandunderrumppillowstothebottomhalfofthewaisttape(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotsecuretheupperpartofthepillows.

7.Nowit’stimetostuffthebum.Onyourmodelordressform,stuffthebumpillows,measuringthenewhipcircumferenceasyougo.Rememberthatpetticoatsandgownskirtswilladdmoregirth,sodon’toverstuffyourpillows.

8.Pleattheopenedgeofthebumpillowstomatchtheundersideand

tacktotheskirt.Foldthewaistbandoverthetopofthefalserumpandhemstitchthewaistbandthroughalllayers(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

Done!

1780sSilkPetticoatovertheFalseRump

Petticoatsmadetofitoverunderstructuresarealittledifferentfromyouraverageall-one-lengthpetticoat.Whileyoucanpatternoutthispetticoatwithashapedtoptoaccommodatethecurveofthefalserump,wedemonstratehowyoucanfitandlevelpetticoatsonthebody,too.

MATERIALS•3yards(3m)of60”(152.4-cm)-widefabric—yardagewillvarydependingonfabricwidth,model’sheightandsizeoffalserump

•Silkthread(#30seamsandwaistbandand#50hemming)•3½+yards(3.5+m)¾–1”(1.9–2.5-cm)-widecottonorlinentape

ASSEMBLY1.Determinethepetticoatlengthaccordingtothefullnessofyourbackside.Overthemiddleofoneofthefalserumppillows,measuredowntojustbelowyourankle.Cutallyourpetticoatpanelsaccordingtothislength.

2.Stitchonesideseamofthepetticoatusingarunningbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])forselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges.Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslitandhemtheseedgestofinishthem.

3.Pleatthefrontandbackofthepetticoatatthewaist.Forthefront,beginwithaboxpleatabout4inches(10.1cm)wide,andcontinueknifepleatingtowardthesideseams.Fortheback,makeaninvertedboxpleatatthecenterback,thencontinuetheknifepleatsfacingthecenterbackonbothsides,whileworkingouttowardthesideseams.Leave½inch(1.3cm)seamallowanceontheunsewnside.

4.Basteacrossthefrontandbackwaistpleatstoholdthem.Leaveyourpinsinplacetohelpwiththefitting.

5.Stitchthesecondsideseam,usingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges.Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslit.Turnandhemtheedgesofthepocketslit.

6.Hemthepetticoatwitheithera¼-or½-inch(6-mmor1.3-cm)hem(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

7.Withyourmodelordressforminallunderpinningsandshoes,pullthepetticoatoverherheadandsituateitaroundherwaist.Tiethebackwaisttapesecurelyaroundthemodel’swaisttothefront,overthepleats,thenpullthepleatededgeofthepetticoatupwardtocreateanevenhem.Checkthehemwithyouryardstickasyougo,measuringfromhemtofloor.Whenthepetticoatislevel,pinittothewaisttape.Repeatthisonthefrontpetticoatpanel.Thissoundseasy,butit’snot.Ittakestimeandpatiencebuttheresultsarelovely.

8.Ontheoutsideofthepleatedpetticoatwaist,hemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebottomedgeofthetapeinplace,sewingthroughalllayersofthepetticoatpleats.Then,turnthetapefullytotheinsideandhemstitchthefreeedgeinplace.Repeatforthebackpanel.

1780sTheItalianGown

Italiangownswerefirstidentifiedwithfourbackpiecessewnincurvestocreateaflatteringlineforthewaist.Thisstylecanbemadewithjusttwobackpiecesaswell.Itisimportantthatyourmock-upbewell-fittedthroughthebackbeforecuttingandsewingthegownpieces.

MATERIALS•6–7yards(6–7m)fashionfabric•1–2yards(1–2m)linenlining•Silkorlinenthread(#30forgownconstructionand#50forskirthemonly,or60/2and80/2)

•1pieceof¼”(6-mm)-wideboning,thelengthofthecenterbackbodice

•5yards(5m)¼”(6-mm)-widetwilltape

BODICEANDFIRSTFITTINGBythemid-1770s,theseamedbackoftheItaliangownovertakesthepleatedbackoftheEnglishgowninpopularity.ThisseamingmadeuseofaspecificstitchingtechniquecalledtheEnglishstitch(here),acleverandefficientwaytostitchfouredgestogetherinonego,resultinginaveryfineandeasilyalterableseam.Readontolearnmoreaboutthisingeniousmantuamaker’stechnique.

1.Marktheseamallowanceontheliningforthecenterbackseam.

2.Measuredown¾to1inch(1.9to2.5cm)fromthetopofthenecklineandmarkwheretheeyeletfortheboningneedstogo.Thefinishedeyeletmustfacethebodywhenthepiecesaremadeupsothatyoucanremovetheboninglatertocleanthegown.Withanawl,maketheholefortheeyeletandwhipitopenusingthickordoubledthread.

3.Turnbacktheseamallowanceandstitchwithafinerunningstitchtocreatetheboningchannel(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

4.Onthetwocenterbackpieces,matchtherawedgesofthefashionfabrictothelining,wrongsidestogether,atthesidebackedgesandsmooth.Foldinandbastethecenterbackseamallowancesofthefashionfabric.Wrongsidestogether,laytheliningintositjustinsidethefashionfabricandbastethetwolayerstogether.Alsofoldandmatchthefashionfabricandseamallowanceforthetopnecklineedges.

5.Rightsidestogether,matchthetwocenterbackpiecesatthecenterbackseam.Pinthroughalllayers—twoliningsandtwofashionfabrics—startingatthetopandworkingdownward.Englishstitchthepiecestogetherinthesamedirectionasyoupinned(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Oncestitched,openthebackpiecesoutflatandpresstheseam.

6.Thesamemethodisusedtoattachthesidebackpiecestothecenterbackpieces.Followsteps4and5untiltheentirebackisconstructed.Donotbastetheremainingsideseamsontheback.Theyareimportantforfittingthebodice.Nowplacetheboningintothechannelsatthecenterbackseam.

7.Onthebodicefrontpieces,basteuptheseamallowanceatthewaist,centerfrontedgesandnecklineonyourfashionfabric,startingwhereyouplantoplacethefrontedgesoftheskirtandendingjustbelowtheshoulderstrapseam.

8.Withwrongsidestogether,matchthebodicefrontliningtotherawbodicefrontsideseamandarmscye.Smoothandpinthefabricstogether.Alongthebastededges,foldintheseamallowanceoftheliningtojustinsidethefashionfabric,pinandbaste.Finelyrunningstitchthetwolayerstogetheralongtheedge.Repeatonotherbodicepiece.

Triple-checkthatthelengthofthecenterfrontsmatch.Layonesideovertopoftheotherandsmoothitdowntoconfirmtheirlength.Youmightfindthateventhoughyoubastedthemthesame,onesidecameoutlongerthantheother.It’sthatweirdmagicofdressmaking—stuffgetsfunkywhenonthebias.

9.Turninandbastetheseamallowanceontheneckedgeoftheshoulderstrappieces.

10.Nowit’stimetofitthebodice.Withthemodelinallofherunderpinnings,pinthebackofthebodiceinplace,makingsurethatthecenterbacklineisstraightandeven.

11.Pinthefrontbodicepiecesintoplacewiththedesiredoverlapatcenterfront,makingsurethecenterfrontlineisstraightonthebody.

12.Pintheshoulderstrapsinplaceatthefront,thenpullovertheshoulderandpintothebackshoulderseamstoholdthebodiceinplace.Checkthatthewaistisstillinplace—don’tpullitupwhenfittingtheshoulderstraps!

13.Smooththefrontbodiceliningtowardtheback.Atthesideseams,pinchandpinthethreelayerstogether,leavingthefashionfabriconthebodicefree.Pinchandpinthesideseamsforasmooth,tightfit,workingbothsidesofthebodicesimultaneouslyandensuringthatnothingispulledaskew.

14.Adjustthefitatthefrontifneededandcontinuallycheckthewaistlengthandnecklinefit.Refertothetroubleshootingguideheretoworkoutanyissues.

1.Ifyoufindthatthebackofyourgownisstandingawayfromthebody,addawaisttie.Markthewaistonthecenterbackseamontheinsideofthebodiceandstitchanarrowtapeatjustthispoint.Thiscanbedoneatanytime.

15.Ifthenecklineistoohighorwibbly,youcaneasilyadjustitonthebody.Pickoutthebastingstitchesandrolltheseamallowancedownuntilyougettheshapeyouwant.

16.Intheback,turnunderthewaistedge,curvingdownintothecenterbackpoint.Pin.

17.Carefullyunpinthefrontclosureofthegown,leavingtheshoulderstrapsandsidebackseamspinned,andremovethegownfromthemodel.

FINISHINGTHEBODICEANDATTACHINGTHESKIRTSAgaindepartingfromitsoldersistertheEnglishgown,theskirtsoftheItaliangownwereveryfull,finelypleatedandsurprisinglyroughlyfinished.TheskirtsofmanyextantItaliangownsshowrawedgesontheinside,merelyfoldeddownandsplitatthecenterback.Inthissection,wedemonstratethehowandwhyofthistechnique.

1.Atthesideseams,hemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theliningthroughall3layers.Presstheseamopenandtrimoutanyexcessseamallowanceleavingabout½inch(1.3cm).

2.Nowsmooththebodicefrontfashionfabricoverthelining,foldingunderandpinningtheedgeofthefashionfabricoverthesideseamtocreateanelegantcurvethatmirrorsthebackseams.Repeatfortheoppositeside,matchingthecurvesandplacementsobothseamsaresymmetrical.Prickstitchthesidebackseamsthroughalllayersusinga⅛-inch(3-mm)squarestitch.

3.Insidethebodice,hemstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thefrontshoulderstrapliningtothebodice.Donotstitchthebackseamyet.

4.Atthewaistedge,turnundertheseamallowanceoffashionfabricandliningtogetherandbaste.Whilerawedgesonthewaistseamareperiodaccurate,youmayinsteadwishtofinishthisedge.Todoso,turnunderandbastethefashionfabricandliningseparately,matchingtheedges,andhemstitchorrunningstitchtogether.

5.Seamalltheskirtpanelstogetherwithamantuamaker’sseamforrawedgesorarunningbackstitchforselvageedges.Hemthefrontedgesoftheskirt(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

6.Withthebodicelaidopenflat,measurestraightacrossthewaistfromthemarkonthesidefrontofthebodicewheretheskirtwillattachtoitscorrespondingpointontheoppositesideofthebodice.Thisisthemeasurementyouwillbepleatingtheskirtinto.Dividebytwoandworkeachsideoftheskirtinsections.

7.Findthecenteroftheskirt—usuallyaseam,butnotalways—and

knifepleattheskirtsonbothsidestowardthecenterback.Keepthevisiblepartofthepleatsmall,around¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm).Pinasyougoandcontinuallycheckpleatsagainstthewaistmeasurement.Verticallybastethepleatedskirtstogetheratthetoptohold.

8.Laythewaistedgeofthebodiceovertopoftheskirt,wrongsidetorightside,andpin.Sliceoropenthecenterbackseamoftheskirtatthetopwherethebodicepointoverlapsit.Thishelpsthepleatsflareoutcorrectlyandcanmakethefittingprocesseasier.

Because of the how the bodice is constructed, skirts on Italiangownsarecommonlymountedtothebodicewiththeinteriorrawedgesfoldeddowntowardthehem.Thispreventsbulkatthewaistwhile the uncut fullness adds volume to the top of the skirts.Additionally, this method allows the gown to easily be pickedapartandremadelaterwithoutanylossofyardage.

9.Double-checktheseamallowanceoftheskirtonbothsides.Ifyouhaveatrainedskirt,youmightneedtopulltheskirtuphigheratthesidestoaccommodateforthelength.

10.Appliquestitchthebodicetotheskirtfromtheoutside(8to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Catchallthelayersandallthepleats.Thiswillbeslowandabittedious,butstickwithit.Oncesewn,foldandpresstheedgeoftheskirtdowntowardthehem.

THESLEEVESANDFINALFITTINGFormostoftheeighteenthcentury,thestandardthree-quarter-lengthsleevedominatedwomen’sfashion.Inthe1780s,though,sleeveoptionscomealive.Whilethethree-quartersleevewouldneverlosepopularity,full-lengthandforearm-lengthsleevesrosetomeetthem.Sleeveconstructiondiversifiedaswell,withsingle-piece,splitandtwo-piecesleevesappearing.Inthissection,wewillconstructaforearm-length“split”sleeve,shapedattheelbow,usinganingeniousseamingmethod,anddemonstratefittingthesleevesintheeighteenth-centurymanner.

1.Hereisathirdmethodofsleeveconstructionthatwearereallyfondof:foldboththeliningandfashionfabricinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Laythematopeachother,sandwichingthesleeveheadstogetherandmatchingtherawedges.Backstitchallfourlayerstogether(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leavetheelbowdartfree.

2.Stickyourarmthroughthetwofashionfabriclayersandpullthesleeveright-sideout.Thiscleverlyleavestheseamallowancesandwichedintheotherlayersofthefabric,seamingbothlayerswithjustonelineofstitching.

3.Putthegownonthemodeloverallunderpinnings.Pinthebodice

closedatcenterfront.Doublecheckthefitofthebodiceandgownskirtsandmakenoteofanyadjustmentsneeded.

4.Fittheshoulderstrapsintheback.Pullthemtightovertheshoulderandpinsecurelyatthebackshoulderseam,keepingtheirangleandplacementonthebackassymmetricalaspossible.Youmayneedtosetthemfartherinorouttoachieveawell-fitnecklinebothinfrontandback.Ifyoufeelaneedtostitchtheshoulderstrapsbeforefittingthesleeves,removethegownfromthemodelandhem-stitchtheshoulderstraplininginplacefromtheinside,thenputthegownbackonthemodelforthesleevefitting.

5.Slidethesleeveupthearmandpinattheshoulderpoint.Startingatthefrontandworkingaroundtheunderarmtowardtheback,pinthesleeveintoplacetryingyourbesttocatchthegownbutnottheshift,staysorperson.

6.Atthefrontunderarmcrease,smooththesleeveupovertheshoulder,workingtowardtheback.Ifyouhaveanyexcessfabric,takeatuckonthebacksideofthesleeve,rightbehindthetopoftheshoulder.

7.Pinchuptherawedgesofthesleevedarttofitthemodel’selbow.

Don’tfallvictimtothe“sexybuttootightsleeve.”Makesurethemodelcanbendherarmtotakeadrinkofwater.Ifonesleeveisabitlongerthantheother,markwhereitneedstobeshortenedandmakethatadjustmentoffthebody.Thissometimeshappensinthefittingprocess.Oncefinished,removethegownfromthemodel,leavingthesleeveandshoulderstrappinsinplace.

8.Onthesleeveunderarm,verycarefullyadjustthepinstoverticalpinning.Ontheinside,markthestitchlineinpencil,makingsurebotharmsmatch.Backstitchtheunderarminplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])throughalllayers.

9.Ontheoutside,stitchthetopofthesleeveinplaceovertheshoulderstrapwithlargebackstitches.Laythefashionfabricshoulderstrapinplace,lininguptheseamallowanceontheneckedgeofthestrap,andpinningandsmoothingovertowardtheshoulder.Carefullyturnundereachedgeandpininplacetocompletelycoveralltherawedges.Takeyourtimewiththis.

10.Ontheoutside,appliquestitchtheshortedgeofthestrapatthefrontshoulderstrapseam.Thenprickstitch⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)overthetopoftheshoulder.Ontheoutside,appliquestitchthebackoftheshoulderstrapinplace.Finally,edgehemorfinelyrunningstitchtheshoulderstraparoundtheneckline.Oncesatisfiedwiththesleeve,trimouttheexcessunderarmfabricinsidethebodice,leaving¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)seamallowance.

11.Releasejustthefashionfabricfromthepinnedelbowdart.Keeptheliningpinnedandbackstitchalongthisseamline.Trimandpresstheseamallowanceopenortooneside.

12.Ontheoutsideofthesleeve,smoothonesideofthefashionfabricovertheliningdartandpin.Turnundertheseamallowanceontheremainingfashionfabricedge,lapitoverthedartseam,coveringallrawedges,andprickstitch(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm])tofinishthedart.

13.Foldupthesleevecuffhemtotheinside,baste,thenhemstitchinplace(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

14.It’stimetofinishthegown.Marktheskirtfrontlength.Thisiseasilydoneonthemodel,butanapproximatelengthwilldo.Aimforacoupleofinchesoffthefloortojustabovetheankle,dependingonyourpreference.Withtheskirtlaidoutopenandflat,drawastraightlinefromthismarkdowntotherawhematthesidebackofyourskirt.Ifyourskirthaspocketslits,usetheseasareference,ifyoudon’thavepocketslits,it’sokaytoeyeballitusingyourskirtpanelsandreference.Justmakesurethatthelinesaresymmetrical.Cutalongthislinetocreateatrain.Ifyoudon’twantatrain,youcanskipthispartbyjustmakingsureyourskirtsareevenwhenyousettheskirttothebodice.Oncesatisfied,basteandhemtheskirtwithabout8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm].

15.Ontheinsidewherethesideseamsofthebodiceliningmeetthewaistedge,stitchanarrowtapeoneachsideabout12to16inches(35to41cm)long.Withtheskirtlaidoutopenandflat,determinetheplacementofyourskirtties.Thiswillvarydependingonthefullnessandlengthofyourskirt.Ourtieswereplaced27inches(69cm)fromtheskirtfrontedgesand13inches(33cm)upfromthe

hem.Experimentwithplacementtofindthesweetspot.Totietheskirtup,matchthewaisttieandskirttieoneachsideandtieinabow.Thetiesmaybepulleduphighorleftlooserfordifferentlooks.Thisisjustonewaythatyoucanattachtapestoyourskirtstogatherthemup.Thereweremanydifferentwaystoachievethislookintheeighteenthcentury,includingapplyingbuttonsontheexteriorwaistandusingribbonstogatheruptheskirt.

AnItaliangownwiththeskirtpulledupisnotarobeàlapolonaise.Therobeàlapolonaiseisanentirelydifferentstyleexhibitingacutawaybodiceoftencutall-in-onelikeaman’sfrockcoat.Theywerewornlooseatthefrontanddrawnupattheback,inlongorshortform.9

Done! Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a fabulousItaliangown!

Early1780sCap

Thiscap isbasedonseveralprintspublished in theearly1780sand istypical of the large, decorative styles in this decade. Proportion isimportant with caps and hair, which means you have to take thehairstyleintoconsiderationwhenmakingacap.Findingthebalancecanbedifficult,butwethinkthiscapisjustright.It’sacutecapthatisbigandfluffybutnotoverwhelming.10,11

MATERIALS•2yards(2m)cottonvoile/muslin,silkorganzaorfineIrishlinen•Silkorcottonthread(#30forgathersandseamsand#50forhems)•20”(50.8cm)of¼”(6-mm)-widefinecottontapeorcandlewicking

ASSEMBLY1.Usethepatternhereandcutthefabric.Lightlyspraystarchandironallthecappieces.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onallsidesofthebandandrufflesofthecapandbaste.Foldthis¼inch(6mm)inhalfagaintocreatea⅛-inch(3-mm)-widenarrowhem.Hemstitchinplacewithaminimumof12stitchesperinch(2.5cm).

2.Pleatupthefirstruffletofithalfoftheband,andpinintoplace.Withrightsidestogether,whipstitchtheruffletotheband,catchinginallthelayersofthepleats.Repeatthisfortheothersideandthecaulruffles.Oncealltherufflesareattached,starchandpresstheseamsopen,andthenfoldthebandinhalftofindthecenterandmarkwith

apin.

3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onalloftheedgesofthecaulandbaste.Foldthecaulpieceinhalflengthwisetofindthecenterandmarkjustabovethebastedseamatthebottomofthecaul.Piercethefabricwithanawlatthismark,thenstitchtheeyeletopenwith#30thread.Whencomplete,pokewiththeawlagaintofurtheropenandshapetheeyelet.

4.Atoptheturnedandbastedseamallowance,securethecandlewickingtothebaseofthecaulpieceoneachendusingafewstrongbackstitches.Pulltheexcesscandlewickingthroughtheeyelet,usinganawlorpintopushthewickingthrough.

5.Foldupthestraightbottomedgeofthecaulpieceoverthecandlewicking.Hem,makingsurenottocatchthewickinginthestitches.Continuetohemtherestofthecaulusingthenarrowhemmethodshownhere.

6.Followingthepattern,markwherethegatheringshouldstartoneachsideofthecaulofthecapwithapin.

7.Foldthecaulinhalflengthwisetofindthetopcenterpointandmarkwithapin.Looselywhipoverthecurvedhemmededgeofthecaulfromonesidetothecenterpoint,about4to6stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Pullupthisthreadtogatherhalfofthecaultoapproximatelyhalfthelengthoftheband.Repeatfortheothersideofthecaul.

8.Pinthecaultothebandwithrightsidestogether,matchingthecentermarks.Whipstitchthetwopiecestogether,catchingeverybumpofthegathers.Whencomplete,openuptheseamandpress.

9.Smooththecaulruffleoverthecaulandlooselytackitdownateverypleattokeeptherufflefromfloppingover.Irontheseamssoeverythingliessmoothlyandstarchasneeded.

10.Attachyourdecorationtoyourcapwithsmalltackingstitches.Inthenextprojectyouwilllearnhowtomakepoufsandbowstogoonthiscap.

Done!Nowlet’sworkondecoratingyournewcap!

1780sPoufsandBows

We’vedecoratedour1780scapwitharowofprestitchedpoufswithabowat thecenter.This typeofcapdecorationcanbeused throughoutmuch of the century, and the skills learned here can be applied innumerous ways. Try these techniques on caps, hats, gown trims andwhereverelseyoufancysomepoufsandbows.ThesilkribboninthistutorialwasgraciouslyprovidedbyBritexFabrics,SanFrancisco.

MATERIALS•1–3yards(1–3m)silkribbon•Silkthread(#30or#50)

ASSEMBLY1.Let’sstartwiththepoufs.Firsthemthestartingendoftheribbon.

2.Markyourribbonatevenintervals,thenstitchalongthesemarksacrossthewidthoftheribbonwithalooserunningstitch.Pullthethreadtogathertheribbon,tackstitchandknotoffyourthread.

3.Repeatuntilyouhavearowofpoufsthatfitthebandofyourcap.Beforeyoumakeyourlastpouf,quicklyhemtheremainingendoftheribbon.

4.Whileweonlyaddone4-loopbowatthecenterofthecap,youcanaddmore.Tolearnhowtomakea4-loopbow,refertothe1740sSimpleStrawHathere.

5.Laythedecorationonthecapandsecureitinplacewithacoupleoftackingstitches.

Done!

1780sSilk-Covered“Brain”Hat

Fluffy,puffyandnever stuffy.The silk-coveredhat in this tutorialwashighlyfashionableforthe1770sand1780s.Depictedinblack,whiteoreven multicolored, this hat presents almost limitless variations andoptions for creative expression. Have fun and don’t be scared toexperimentwithsize,color,textureandtrimmings.

MATERIALS•Shallowcrownstrawhat(approximately15”[38cm]diameterorless)

•2yards(2m)silktaffeta•2yards(2m)silkorganza•Silkthread(#30forconstructionand#50forhemming)•Assortedfeathers,ribbonsandtrims•Hatpin(optional)

ASSEMBLY1.Measurethediameterofthestrawhatcrowninteriorandcuttwosquaresofthesilktaffetaapproximately4inches(10.2cm)larger.Centeronesquarepieceoverthecrowninteriorandworkitintotheconcaveshape,smoothing,stretchingandpinningasyougo.Stitchinplacewithlargebastingstitches.Cutawaytheexcess,leavingsomeseamallowanceforlater.

2.Placethestrawhatbaseonadoublelayerofthesilktaffetaandtracearoundtheedgeofthebrim.Add1inch(2.5cm)seamallowanceandcutoutthecircles.Youwillhavetwocircles.

3.RoughlymarkthecentercrownwithanX.CutopentheX,thencontinuetoclipoutwardsfromcenterwhileworkingthesilkpieceoverthecrown.Clipasneeded,alittleatatime,toreleaseanywrinklesortensionsothatthesilkpiecesmoothlyfitsdownoverthecrown.Pinasyougo,andbastethesilktothehataroundthebaseofthecrown.Oncethesilkissmooth,trimoffexcessfabricthatmightflapoverthecrown,andcutanyextranotchesyoumightneedforthatsmoothfit.

4.Nextsmooththesilkoverthestrawbasetowardtheouteredgeofthebrim.Turntheseamallowanceofthesilkovertheedgeofthestrawbase.Donotoverstretchthis—ithelpstorollthebrimovertheedgeofatablewhilepinningtokeepthesilkfrompullingthebrimup.Oncepinnedintoplace,bastethesilkinplacearoundtheedgeofthebrim.

5.Thisnextstepwasdonebecauseourstrawbasewasalightcolorandwedidnotwantittoshowthroughtheblacksilkgauze.Ifyouareusingahatbasethatisclosetothecolorofthesilk,youcanskipthispart.Placethesecondsquareofsilktaffetafromstep1overthecrownandroughlypindownaroundthebase.Markthesilkaroundthebaseofthecrown,adding½to1inch(1.3to2.5cm)seamallowance.Removethetaffetafromthecrown,layflat,thencutoutthecircleyoumarked.

6.Reapplythistaffetacircletothecrown,pinningatthecenter,thensmoothingthefabricoverthesidesofthecrownandpinningatthebase.Workaroundthecircle,pinninguntilitistotallysmoothacrossthetop.Don’tworryabouttherawedgesonthispiece,astheywillbecoveredbythesilkgauze“brain”bit.

7.Stitcharoundthebaseofthecrowntosecurethesilkcoveringtothehat.

8.Nowthefunpart:it’stimetomakethebrain!Measureandcutyoursilkorganzaabout24to30inches(61to76.2cm)longandselvagetoselvage.Foldthisorganzapieceinhalf,matchingrawedges,soitisabout12to16inches(30.5to40.7cm)high.Bastethelayerstogether,creatingalongtube.Donotpressthefoldededge!

9.Onthefoldedorganza,quarterthelengthandmarkwithchalkorpins.Repeatthissteponthebrimofthehat,markingabout1½to2inches(3.8to5cm)outfromthebaseofthecrown.

10.Applytheorganzatothehat,withtherawedgefacingthecrown,matchingupthequarterpoints,andsecurewithpins.Therewillbelotsofexcessfabricbetweenthepinnedquarters.Pleatthisexcessdownandpintothebrimroughlyalongthat1½to2-inch(3.8-to5-cm)circleawayfromthebaseofthecrown.Thesepleatsdon’thavetobefancy—justafewbetweeneachquarterwilldothejob.Makesureyoucatchalllayersofthepleatasyoupin.Stitchtheorganzatothebrimwithrunningstitches.

11.Pulltheorganzatubeupwardtowardthemiddleofthecrown.Finelyrunningstitchtheselvageedgesofthetubetogethertocloseitoff.

12.Beginthe“brain”puffsbypullingthetwolayersoforganzaapartatthetop,foldedoveredge.Atintervals—quartersorfifths—pulltheinnerlayeroforganzadowntothecentertopofthecrownandpin.

13.Workfromthetopofthecrownoutward,pushingtheorganzadowntothecrownandpinningatanypointthatfeelstoopuffy.Futzasneeded,butavoidbeingtooparticularwiththeplacement.There’snorightwaytodothis—pinandadjustuntilyoufeelthebrainiswell-balancedandbrainyenoughtosuityourtaste.Thedesiretomakethisbitsymmetricalishumannature,butstriveforanatural,uncontrivedlook.Takeasmuchtimeasyouneedtobrainthroughthis.

14.Nowyougettosewthose30-some-oddpinsyoujuststabbedintothecrowninplace.Withalong,well-waxedthread,tack-stitchateachpin.Thereisnoneedtoknotandcutthethread—movefromonepointtothenextontheinsideuntilcomplete.Thisistediousasheckandyouwillstabyourself.Ifyoudon’tbleedduringthisproject,it’snotdoneyet.

15.Timetotrimthehat.Anorganzaribbonlooksjollygoodaroundthebrimofabrainhat.Youmayusepremadeorganzaribbonabout2inches(5cm)wide,ormakeyourown.Dothisbydoublingthecircumferenceofyourhatbrimtofindthelengthforyourorganzaribbon—ourhatwas37.5inches(95.3cm)around,sowecutourorganzastrip75inches(190.5cm)longby2inches(5cm)wide.Finelyrollhemyourorganza(seehere).

16.Pintheorganzaribbonaroundthehatbrimbyquarters.Thenpleatorgatheronequarteratatime,workingaroundthebrimandpinningthepleatsorgathersinplacealongtheedge.Prickstitchtheorganzaribbontriminplace,makingsuretocatcheverypleat.

17.Onceyourtrimisattached,itistimetoaddtheunder-brimlining.Laythesecondlargecircleoftaffetacutinstep2atoptheundersideofthebrim,pinningitinplace.

18.Aroundthesilkbrim,clipintotheseamallowance,thenturntotheinsideandpinaroundthebrimedge.Appliquestitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theedgeoftheunder-brimsilktotheedgeofthesilkrolledoverthebrim.Donotgothroughtheentirehat,youjustneedtocatchthesilkalongtheedge.

19.Ontheinteriorcircle,clipintotheseamallowance,turnunderandpintothecrownlining.Appliquestitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theturnededgeoftheunder-brimliningtothecrownlining.

20.Forthehatties,chooseprefinishedribbonorhemtheedgesofsilktaffetatomakeyourown.Thetiesshouldbelongenoughtoeasilytieinabowatthenapeofyourneck.Oursareabout26inches(66cm)longand2inches(5cm)wide.Appliquestitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theribbontiestotheundersideedgeofthehatbrim.

21.Youmaynowchoosetodecoratethehatevenmore!Trybows,feathers,flowersorcockadestofinishoffyourfashionablenewhat!

Early1780sRuffledApron

Thefluffy,rufflyapronsoftheearly1780saretrulypiecesofjoy.Theyaresofuntowear,withgreattexture,movementandwhimsythatreallytakeanensembletothenextlevel.Addthisaprontoyouroutfitwiththematching cap, neck tucker or handkerchief and elbow ruffles and youwilllooklikeyoujustwalkedoutofaneighteenth-centuryportrait.

MATERIALS•2yards(2m)cottonvoile•2yards(2m)½”(1.3-cm)widecottonorlinentape•Silkthread(#30forgathersandtopstitchingand#50forhemming)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern(here).

2.Hemthreeedgesoftheapronwithafinerunningstitch.Leavethetopoftheapronunsewn.Setaside.

3.Next,connectandhemtherufflesonallsides.Seamtheedgesselvagetoselvagewithfinerunningstitches(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])andpressopen.Forthehem,youcaneitherusethenarrowhem(here)orrollhem(here)techniqueoncottonvoile.

4.Afteralltheruffleedgesarehemmedandseamed,foldoverthetopoftheruffle1to1½inch(2.5to6.4cm),andwhipstitchoverthefold,workinginsectionsof12inches(30.5cm)atatimeandgatheringthemdownto6inches(15.2cm).Tackstitchateachintervalandcarryontothenext.Continuewhipgatheringuntilyou’vegathered

uptheentireruffle,thensteamandfingerpresstheruffleopen.

5.Pinthegatheredlineoftheruffleoverthehemmededgeoftheapron,easingitaroundthecurvesandleavingabout¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)unruffledatthetop.Prickstitchintoplacethroughthegatheredlinetohidethestitches.

6.Markthecenterofthewaistedgewithapin.Using#30thread,stitch3linesofevenrunningstitchesforstrokegathers,stoppingatthecenteroftheapron.Thenstartnewlinesatthecenterandworktowardtheotherendoftheapron.Gatheruptothedesiredwidthbetween13and16inches(33and40.6cm),anchorthetailstoapinand“stroke”thegatherstoeventhemout.

7.Applyhalfthewidthofthewaisttapeoverthestroke-gatheredwaistedge.Hemstitchalongthetapeedge,catchingeverybumpofthestrokedgathers.Foldovertheremaininghalfofthetapetotheinsideandrepeatthestep.Checkandadjustthegathersasyougo.Youwanttokeepthemasevenlyspacedaspossible.Donotrushthis;itisworthittotakeyourtime.

8.Oncefinished,starchandirontheapronandrufflestokeeptheirshapeandvolume.

1780sNeckTuckerandElbowRuffles

FortheGeorgianwoman,havingsomethingaroundthenecklineofhergownwasjustasimportantasputtingonhershift.Whileyoucanwearthisstyleofgownwithalargeandfullneckhandkerchief(anditlooksfabulouswhenyoudo!),havingacottonvoilesetofapron,tuckerandrufflesisnotonlyeasybutextremelyfashionable.Whetheryouchoosethekerchieforthetucker,donotgooutwithoutoneortheother.It’sacardinalruleofbeingagorgeousGeorgianlady!

MATERIALS•¼–½yard(0.25–0.5m)cottonmuslinorvoile,silkorganzaorfinelinencutintostripsabout1½”(3.8-cm)wide

•Silkthread(#30forattachingpiecesand#50forhemming)•2–3yards(2–3m)½”(1.3-cm)-widecottonorlinentape

1.Cutthetapetofitthenecklineofyourgown.Hemtherawendsofthetape.

2.Joinyourstripsofvoiletomakeonelengthdoublethelengthofyourgown’snecklinemeasurement.Joinpiecesselvagetoselvagewithafinewhipstitch,orfinehemeachendbeforewhippingtheseams.

3.Next,narrowhemorrollhemthelongandshortedgesofthetucker.

4.Whipoveronelongedgeofthetuckerandgatheruptofitthetape.Withrightsidestogether,pintheruffletothetapeandwhipstitchittotheedge,makingsuretocatcheverybump.Opentheruffleandtapeoutflatandpressjusttheseamifneeded.

5.Laythetuckerintotheinteriornecklineofthegown,pinandtackitintoplaceusinglargehemstitches.Makesuretosewthetuckertoonlytheliningofthegown!

6.Repeattheseexactstepsforyourelbowruffles,justinsmallerlengths.

HowtoGetDressedandWearYourItalianGownwithStyle

ASSEMBLY1.Startbyputtingonyourshift,under-petticoat,shoes,staysandpocket.

2.Putonyourfalserump,tyingthebowofftothesideofyourcenterfrontandmakingsureyoucanstillreachyourpocket.

3.Next,putyourpetticoatonoveryourheadandarrangetheskirtoverthefalserump.Tiethebacktapestothefrontwiththebowtiedofftooneside,thenlapthefrontofthepetticoatoverthebacktapeandtieinback.

4.Pinyourcaponbothsidesofyourheadwithsmallpins,catchingyourhair.

5.Putonyourgownandtiethewaisttapearoundyourwaistwiththebowofftooneside.Don’tpinyourgownyet!

6.Ifyouwanttohaveyourgownpointoveryourapron,putyouraprononnowandtieitatyourcenterback,underneaththegown.

7.Nowyoucanpinyourgownclosed.Ifyou’rerighthanded,laytherightsideofthebodicedownfirstandoverlapwiththeleftsidesoyoucanpushyourpinsinattheseamoftheleftpiece(thishelpshidethem).Dotheoppositeifyou’realefty.Startatthebottomedgesofthebodiceandpinuptowardthenecklineuntilthegownissecureandsmooth.Burytheedgesofthepinsintoyourstays.Pinningyourgarmentstakespatienceandpractice,andyouwillalsodevelopyourownpreferencesandtechniquesforstartingpointandpinorientation.

8.Youmaywishtoaddaboworotherornamenttoyourneckline—pinthisonlast,hidingtheheadofthepinintheloopsofthebow.

9.Ifyouarewearingyourhat,placeitonoveryourcapataforwardangle.Carefullypassahatpinthroughonesideofthehat,intoyourhair,andbackouttheoppositesideofthehat.Thentiethehattiesinabowinbackatthebaseofyourskull.

Youarenowreadyforafashionablejaunttothemilliner’sshop!

CHAPTERFIVE

TheRoundGown,1790s

INSPIREDBYTIDENSTØJ,WHITEWEDDINGDRESS,C.1797#426–1923&CUTOFWOMEN’SCLOTHINGDIAGRAMXXXIIIFABRIC&THREADPROVIDEDBYBRITEXFABRICS,SANFRANCISCO

The1790sissuchanincredibledecadeforclothing.Themassivepoliticalandsocialchangesduringthisdecade,coupledwiththepopularityofClassicalGreece,RomeandtheOrient,resultedinfashionthatwasunlikeanythingprior.Therisingwaistlines,preferencesforsheer,gauzyfabricsandthegrowingemphasisonamorenaturalbodyshapeforwomenwereallmeanttoreference

Classicalart,adeparturefromtheartificiallyenhancedGeorgiansilhouette.1Thoughitmayseemsudden,therewasactuallyagradualprogressionofthesilhouettebeginninginthe1780sandslowly,subtlyshiftinguntilthewaistwaswellandtrulyunderthebustinthemid-1790s.2

Gownsfromthemid-tolate-1790sarealsoquitedifferentfromthedressesseenintheearly1800s.The1790ssilhouetteisfullandround,transitioningtowardthelatercolumnarRegencyshape.Almostallofthegownsinourbookusebetween5and7yards(5and7m)offabric.Thisgownisnodifferent,withover4yards(4m)offabricintheskirtand1yard(1m)offabricinthetwo-pieceshapedsleevesalone.Thoughitmayseemexcessive,thesegownsneedthismuchfabrictogivethatbeautifulethereallookthatisnecessarytostepbackintothe1790s.

Finally,staysstartedlosingtheirrigid,primarilyconicalshapebytheearly1780s,continuingtogetsofterand“thrustier”intothe1790s.Afullbosomthatsitsinawell-supportednaturalpositiononthebodyiscrucialforasuccessful1790slook.However,thebustlineofthe1790sisstillnothinglikethe“liftandseparate”ofearly1800scorsets.Weencourageyoutomakeorpurchaseadedicatedpairof1790sstaysoracorsettoachievethenaturalshapeofthisuniqueperiodofdress.

Woman’sDress(RoundGown),c.1795,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.57.24.12

CollectionofEnglishOriginalWatercolourDrawings:MorningDress1795,AnnFranklandLewis,1795,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,

www.lacma.org,AC1999.154.21

OURCHOICESFORTHEROUNDGOWNThefabricforthisgownisacreamyopenweavelinenwithembroideredspots.Thedrapeandsheernessofthislinenhelpscreatethatbeautiful,

flowing,elegantandclassicallook.Whenstifferfabricsuchassilktaffetaisused,itisimportanttoadapttheskirtwidthsfortheadditionalfullness.Sinceourlinenissosheerandopen,wewereabletomakeourskirthemcircumferenceabout150inches(3.8m).However,ifthisgownweremadeofsilktaffeta,itwouldneedtobecloserto90to100inches(2.3to2.5m)skirthemcircumferencetoaccommodatethedifferenceinfabricdrape.You will notice there are many additional millinery projects for thischapter.This is because the1790s is all about accessories! It’s easy tochange your whole look with just your choice of chemisette, sash,turban, cap, etc. A white or ivory linen or cotton gown provides theperfect backdrop to display all the funmillinery that reallymakes the1790spopwithpersonality.We encourage you to try various colors and textures throughout youraccessories. The late eighteenth century did not abide by modernmatchy-matchy rules. Complementary colors were popular in the lateeighteenthcentury,whichmayseemboldandgarish toamoderneye,butwhenyoustartputtingthesevariouspiecestogether,you’llseewhata difference it makes in gaining that “fashion-plate perfect” look. Ifyou’renervous, experimentwithcolorful shoes,glovesor reticulesandexpandyourcolorcombinationsfromthere!

Woman’sDress,c.1800,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.2007.211.868

Women1790–1799,Plate034,N.Heideloff,February1,1795,ThomasJ.WatsonLibrary,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,b17509853

LEARNINGTOLOVELINEN3,4Linen,oh,darlinglinen,youareawell-lovedpaininthebackside.Lineniswrinkly,wonkyandwackadoodletoworkwith.Naturally,wewanttouseitforacoolandcomfortablesummergown,butwhenyouactuallygettoworkingwithit,youendupjustwantingtosetthegownonfire.Whileweadorelinenforstructuralgownlinings,shifts,capsand

kerchiefs,usingmodernlinentomakeagowncanbearealstruggle.Here’sthedeal:mostlinenisn’tmadetodaylikeitwasintheeighteenthornineteenthcentury.Therehasbeenashiftinthewaylinenistreatedbeforemanufacturingthatcausesittobeallwibbly-wobbly.Itisalmostimpossibletodaytofindaffordablelinenmadeoflong,strongfibers.Andsowepreach cautionwhen it comes toworkingwith linen forgowns.It’s not because the fabric isn’t accurate or pretty. It’s simply becausemodernity has made modern linen much more difficult to work withthaninthepast.However, linen is a great fabric for summer. As a reed plant, it is farsuperior inwickingawaymoisture thancottonand isnaturallycool tothetouch.Whenlinenisstarched,itiscrispandeasytofingerpressandfold,noironneeded.Itholdsupwelltowashing(thoughgoeasyonitinthedryer),anddifferentweightsareavailablefordifferentpurposes. Itwasthecheapgo-tofabricintheeighteenthcenturyandtheyuseditforeverything,thoughironicallytodaylinencanbequiteexpensive!To help stabilize modern linen and make it easier to work with, werecommend that you spray starch your fabric before cutting out thepieces.Forour1790sgown,we’veusedavery loose-woven linen,andwe found that using spray starch on the lining and the fashion fabricthroughouttheconstructionprocessreallyminimizedthewonkiness.Finally,wewouldliketoquicklyaddresssolidcoloredlinen.Whilelinendoesn’t take dye as well as other fibers, dyed linen did exist in theeighteenth century. There are plenty of primary sources that advertisedyed linen for sale, and there are even original garmentsmade out ofdyed linen. Now, does this mean you should make a gown out of abrightlycoloredlinen?Asalwayswerecommendcaution,researchandgoodjudgmentwhenitcomestocolorchoicesinyourlinengarments.

1790sUndiesUnder-PetticoatandBackPad

Because there are precious few primary sources for 1790s under-petticoats,wehadadifficult timedecidinghow topatternone for thebook.Oursisbasedontwoextantpetticoats:aridinghabitpetticoatintheSalisburyMuseum5andabodicedpetticoatthatdatestocirca1790sintheSnowshillCollection.6Itisimportanttonotethatthebackpadiscrucial to the success of your silhouette, because it helps prevent the

gown skirts from collapsing onto themselves. Don’t skip it! Finally,though we tried to create an under-petticoat pattern “one size fitsmany,” you may need to adjust the pattern and subsequent fabricyardagetobestfityou.

MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)medium-toheavy-weightlinen•2½yards(2.5m)cottonvoileat54”(137-cm)-wide•1yard(1m)cottoncandlewickingor¼”(6-mm)-widecottontape•Scrapofcottonfabriclargeenoughforthepad•Stuffing(feathers,woolorcork)•Silkthread(#30forseamsandgatheringand#50forhems)•Linenthread(60/2)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern.Thenturnunderandbastetheseamallowanceonthebodicefrontpiecesonthewrongsideofthefabric.Onthebodicebackpiece,turnundertheseamallowance

andbastetotherightside.

2.Attachthebodicefrontstothebodicebackbypinningthefrontbodicesideseamovertopthebackbodicesideseam,coveringthebastededges.Hemstitchdowntheedgesonoutsideandinsideofthesideseam.Repeatfortheoppositeside.

3.Attachtheshoulderstrapseamsusingthesamemethodasabove.

4.Basteandhemalloftheremainingrawedgesonthebodice—neckline,centerfront,waistedgeandarmscyes.

5.Cutouttheskirtsaccordingtoyourmeasurements.

6.Dividethefrontskirtpanelinhalfselvagetoselvageandmarkthecenterwithapin.Fromthispoint,measuredown10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm),markandcutstraightdownfromthetopedgetothismark.Finehemtheedgesofthisslitopenandcarefullywhipstitchthebottomoftheslittopreventfrayingortearing.

7.Seamthepetticoatpanelstogetherusingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforcutedges.Next,baste¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)aroundthetopoftheskirt.

8.Nowfoldeachhalfofthefrontpanelinhalfagainandmarkthequarterpointswithpins.Withthelengthofthedrawstringlaidoutflattowardthecenterfrontslit,backstitchthefrontdrawstringendsinplaceatbothpins.

9.Hemaroundtheentiretopoftheskirt.Whenhemmingoverthedrawstring,makesureyoudon’tcatchitinthestitches.

10.Startingfromthesidefrontskirtmarking(wheretheanchorendofyourdrawstringis),stitch3rowsofequalrunningstitchestotheskirtsideseam.Donotyetgatherup.Foldthebackskirtpanelinhalfandmarkthecenterwithapin.Stitch3rowsofrunningstitchesoneachhalfoftheskirtbackpanel.Nowrepeatthisstepontheotherfrontskirtpanel.Youshouldnowhave4sectionsofrunningstitchestogatheruptheskirt.

11.Gatheruptheportionsoftheskirtinsectionstomatchthesideseamsandcenterbackofthebodice.Pinthebodicetothepetticoatrightsidestogetherasyougatheruptheskirt.Thereisnotalotoffabricinthisunder-petticoat,sokeepyourgathersevenlyspacedandanchorthegatheringthreadsbywrappingtheexcessthreadaroundapin.

12.Whipstitchtheskirttothebodice,carefullycatchingeverybumpinthegathers.Finally,hemyourpetticoat.

13.Nowlet’smoveontothebackpad.Cutouttheshapeaccordingtothepattern,addingseamallowance.

14.Withrightsidestogether,backstitcharoundthecrescentshape,leavingabout3inches(7.6cm)openatthetopstraightedge.Turnthepadright-sideout,takingcaretopushoutthecorners.

15.Stuffthepadveryfullofyourstuffingofchoice(weusedfeatherdown).Thenturntheseamallowanceinandcloseupthe3-inch(7.6-cm)holeusingawhipstitch.Ifdesired,placeafewtuftingstitchesinthepadtoholdthestuffinginplace.

16.Lineupandpinthepadinthemiddleofthebackofyourunder-

petticoatwherethebodiceandskirtmeet,andwhipstitchthepadtothepetticoat.

1790sTheRoundGown

Bodiceconstructioninthe1790sseemedtofollowthe“under-bodiceplusover-bodice”conventionsetearlierinthe1780swiththechemisealareineandsimilargowns.Thepurposeoftheunder-bodiceistokeepthebackofthegownsecureandwell-fittedwhiletheover-bodicefloatedoverthetopwithnostructuraldemands.Youcanusethisdesignasthefoundationfornearlyany1790sgowndesign.Forourgownwehave

chosenapleated-front,V-neckedover-bodice,butmanydifferentbodicefrontdesignsareopentoyou.Roundgatherednecklines,bibbedfronts,surplice,andsquarefittedtopswillallworkwiththeunder-bodiceconstructiontoo.We finished nearly all the seams and edges in this project due to theshreddy nature of the fashion fabric. If your gown fabric is a tightlywovensilkorcotton,youcanleavethetopoftheskirtsandthebottomofthebodiceedgesunhemmed.

MATERIALS•5½–6yards(5.5–6m)fashionfabric•1–2yards(1–2m)linenforlining•Silkthread(#30forseamsandgathersand#50forhems)•2yards(2m)¼”(6-mm)-widewoventapeorcandlewicking

THEUNDER-BODICEANDFIRSTFITTINGThe1790sgownistrulyatransitionalgarment,drawingonformerstandardsofconstructionandblendingthemwithnewsilhouettesandstyles.Readontoassembleandfitthisstructuralbodice.

1.Turnundertheseamallowanceandbastetheneckedge,sidebackseamedgesandwaistedgeofthebodicebacklining.Matchthebodicebackfashionfabrictotherawarmscyesandshoulderstrapedgesofthebodicebackliningandpin.Foldundertheseamallowanceonthegownfabricattheneckedgesandstitchthetwo

piecestogetherwithfinerunningstitches.Foldinthesidebackseamandwaistedgesofthegownfabrictomatchtheliningandbastethroughbothlayerstosecurethemtogether.

2.Onthesidebackliningpieces,turnandbastethesidebackseamsandwaistedges.Matchthegownfabrictotheliningatthearmscyeandsideseam,turnintheseamallowancetomatchtheliningalongthesidebackseamsandwaistedgesandbastethetwolayerstogether.

3.Withrightsidestogether,pinthebackandsidebackpiecestogetheratthesidebackseam,workingthecurvefromthewaistedgeintothearmscye.Thefinishedwaistedgesneedtomatch,buttherecanbeexcessinthearmscye.Englishstitchfromthewaistedgetothearmscye,pullingthestitchestaught(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Openoutthepiecesandpresstheseam.Repeatontheotherside.

4.Useafinerunningstitchtofinishthebottomedgesofthebodiceback.Stopyourstitching1to2inches(2.5to5cm)fromthebodicesideseams.Thiswillleaveroomforfitting.

5.Onthefrontbodicelining,turnintheseamallowance,baste,turnupagain,thenhemthenecklineandcenterfront.Alsohemthebottomwaistedgejusttothedottedlinewherethegownfabricwillbeapplied.

6.Pintheunder-bodicefrontfashionfabricontheliningmatchingtherawedgesattheshoulderstrapandarmscye.Foldunderthefashionfabricalongthedottedlineandtomatchthewaistedge,thenfinelyrunningstitch,stopping1to2inches(2.5to5cm)fromthesideseam.

7.Turnuptheseamallowanceontheneckedgeandfrontbodiceseamoftheshoulderstrapsandbaste.Ontheinside,lapthebastedfrontshoulderstrapedgeoverthebodicefrontshoulderstrapseamandstitchwithasmallhemstitchorbackstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Pressandstarchthebodicepieces.

8.Nowit’stimetofitthebodice.Beginwithputtingonallofyourunderpinnings.Roughlypinthebodicetogetheratthesideseamsandbackshoulderseamandputonthebodice.Overlapthecenterfrontedgesandpinclosed.Adjustthepinsoftheshoulderstrapsinbackasneededtoachievethecorrecthighwaistplacement.Ifyouneedbustdarts,pinchthemupandpininplacenow.

Bustdartsarenormalbytheendofthe1790swiththedevelopmentofthesofter,morenaturalbustshape.Itisimportanttofitthebustdartsonthebody,asoftenaladyisnotsymmetrical.

9.Pinjustthefashionfabricoutofthewayatthesideseams,thenpinchupandpinthesideseamstocreateasmooth,tightfit.Workbothsideseamssimultaneouslyforsymmetry.

10.Nowadjustthebackshoulderseamsagaintocreateasmooth,symmetricalandsecurefit.Oncesatisfied,removethebodicefromthemodel,leavingthesideseam,shoulderstrapandbustdartpinsinplace.

11.Next,hemstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebackshoulderstrapstotheliningontheinside.

12.Forthesidesseams,foldtheliningopenandcreasetheseamallowancewithyourfingersalongthepinline.Thenwithrightsidestogether,tightlywhipstitchthefoldededgesfromtheinside.Removethepinsandpresstheseamopen.Cutoffanyextraseamallowance,leaving¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm).

13.Pinthesidebackbodicefashionfabrictooverlaptheliningsideseam.Trimawayanyexcessseamallowance.Nowpinthebodicefrontfashionfabricoverthelayersandfoldundertheseamallowancetocovertherawedges.Useyourliningsideseamasaguideforwherethefashionfabricseamshouldgo.Prickstitchthefashionfabricsideseamfromtheoutside(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm]).

14.Moveontoyourbustdartsnext,andlightlymarkwithapencilorerasableinkthedartplacementalongthebaseofthepins.Unpinthedarts,foldrightsidestogether,carefullymatchingupthepencillinesandbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Foldthefabricoutflatandpressthedartstowardthesideseams.

SKIRTSANDSLEEVESInthisnextsection,wewillmakethefrontandbackoftheskirtaswellasthelong,two-piecesleeves.Itisatthispointthatyourgownmaygoontobearoundgownorremainanopenrobe:justomitthefrontskirtpanel.ThosecleverGeorgianmantua-makersknewtheconstructionwasthesame!Additionally,wehaveincludedadiagram(here)formeasuringandpatterningatwo-pieceshapedsleeveandhowtoassemblewiththeefficienttailor’smethod.

1.Cutyourskirtpanelsaccordingtothediagramhere.Foldthefrontskirtpanelinhalflengthwiseandmarkthecenterwithapin.Measuredown10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)andmark.Thencutstraightdownfromthetopedgetothismark.Finelyhemtheslitopen,andcarefullywhipstitchthebottomtosecureandstrengthentheopening.

2.Seamalltheskirtpanelstogether.Useamantuamaker’sseamforrawcutedgesorarunningbackstitchforselvageedges.Turnovertheseamallowanceandbastetheentiretopedgeoftheskirt.Fromthecenterfrontoftheskirtmeasureabout16inches(40.7cm)towardthesideseamandmarkwithapin.Repeatfortheoppositeside.Thismeasurementcanbealittlelongerorshorter,dependingonyourmodel’ssize.

3.Cuttwolengthsofnarrowtapeorcandlewickingabout18to20inches(45.7to50.8cm)long.Thislengthmayalsovaryifyouchangethefrontoftheskirtmeasurementabove.Pintheendofthetapetothepinmarkandsecurelystitchitinplace.Repeatfortheoppositeside.

4.Next,turntheedgeoveragainandhemstitchtheentiretopoftheskirt,makingsurenottocatchthedrawstringontheskirtfront.

5.Ifyourgownskirtistrained,nowisagoodtimetomarkandadjustit.Workingonalargeflatsurface,foldtheskirtinhalfatthecenterback,matchingupeachoftheskirtpanelseamsandpintogether.Withtheentireskirtfoldedandsmoothedflat,youwillseea“stairstep”effectatthehemwiththedifferentlengthsofeachskirtpanel.Drawastraightlinefromthebottomcorneroftheskirtfrontpanelsideseamtothebottomcorneroftheskirtbackpanelsideseam,creatinganangleacrossthewidthoftheskirtsidepanel.Continuethislinetointersectthebottomedgeoftheskirtbackpanel,smoothingintoagentlecurve.Cutthisangle.Donothemtheskirtyet.

6.Oneachside,measurestraightdownfromthestartofthearmscyeinthebodicefronttofindtheanchorpointsforwheretheskirtisattachedtothebodiceofthegownandmarkwithapin.

7.Findthecenterbackofyourbackskirtpanelonemoretimeandmark.With#30thread,make3rowsofevenrunningstitchesatthetopoftheskirtfromthedrawstringtothecenterback,thenaseparatetriplerowofrunningstitchesfromthecenterbacktotheoppositedrawstring.Pullthestitchesuptogatherthemtofitthesections

markedonthebodice.Theywillbeverytightandfull.Pintheskirttothebodicerightsidestogetherasyougoandsecurethelongtailsofthegatheringthreadsbywindingthemaroundanotherpin.

8.Whipstitchtheskirttothebodice,catchingeverybumpofthegatherstouchingthebodice.Whencomplete,openthebodiceandskirtoutflatandpress.

9.Cutoutyoursleevesusingthediagramhereandadd1inch(2.5cm)seamallowanceonallsides.Pintogether,thencheckthefitofyoursleevesandmarkanyadjustmentsbeforeyouseamthemtogether.Don’tmakeyoursleevestootight—makesureyoucanbendyourarms!Oncesatisfied,separatetheliningfromthegownfabricandlaythemrightsidestogether.Thenstacktheliningsleeveontopofthefashionfabricsleeve,sandwichingthesleeveheads.Matchupthewristedgeofall4piecesandsmootheverythingout.

10.Ontheoutsideseamedgemeasureupandmark3to4inches(7.6to10.2cm)fromthewrist,whichwillbethewristopening.Ontheinsideseammark½inch(1.3cm)upfromthebottomedge.Thiswillgiveyouroomtofinishyourwristedgeoncethesleevesarestitched.Backstitchbothseamsat8to10stitchesperinch(2.5cm).

11.Trimtheseamallowanceto½inch(1.3cm).Stickyourarmbetweenthetwofashionfabriclayersandturnthesleeveright-sideout.Thiswillleaveyourrawedgesencasedinthelayersofthesleeves.Carefullypresstheseamssmoothandshapethesleeve.

SETTINGTHESLEEVESANDFINISHINGTHEBODICEInthenextsection,weonceagaindemonstratetheeighteenthcenturymethodofsettingthesleevesonthebody.Additionally,theunder-bodiceiscompleted,readyforthefinalover-bodicetreatment.

1.Nowit’stimetosetthesleeves.Beginbyputtingthegownonthemodeloverallunderpinnings.Slidethefirstsleeveupthearmandpinattheshoulderpoint.Startingatthefrontandworkingaroundtheunderarmtowardtheback,pinthesleeveintoplacetryingyourbesttocatchthegownbutnottheshift,staysorperson.Atthefrontunderarmcrease,smooththesleeveupovertheshoulder,workingtowardtheback.Ifyouhaveanyexcessfabric,takeatuckonthebacksideofthesleeve,betweentheshoulderpointandthestartoftheunderarmcrease.Checkmobility.Themodelshouldbeabletocrossherarmsandraisethemaboveherhead.Repinasnecessaryandrepeatfortheothersleeve.

2.Checkthehemofyourgowninfrontandmarkashorterlengthifit’s

toolong.Thehemshouldjustbrushthetopofyourtoesandextendgracefullyintothetrainattheback.Carefullyremovethegown,keepingallthepinsinplace.

3.Onthesleeveunderarm,carefullyconverttoverticalpinning.Markthestitchlineinpencil,makingsurebotharmsmatch,thenbackstitchtheunderarmportionofthesleevewithabout10to12stitchesperinch(2.5cm).

4.Withbigbackstitches,stitchthetopofthesleeveinplaceovertheshoulderstrap.Thesestitchesdon’thavetobepretty—theywillbecoveredlater.Trimawayanyexcessofjustthesleevehead.

5.Nowlaythefashionfabricshoulderstrapovertheliningshoulderstrap,matchinguptheseamallowanceattheneckedge.Turnundertheseamallowanceonalledgesandpinthestrapinplacemakingsurebothsidesaresymmetrical.

6.Next,appliquestitchtheshortedgeofthefashionfabricshoulderstraponthefrontbodice(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Prickstitch⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)aroundthetopofthearm.Appliquestitchthebackofthestrapinplaceoverthebackshoulderstrapseam(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Attheneckline,finelyrunningstitchtoattachthestraps.

7.Cutoutanyexcessseamallowanceinthearmscye,leaving¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm).Ifyouhaveshreddyfabric,orverylittleseamallowance,dowhattheGeorgiansdidbyroughlywhipstitchingoverthearmscyeseamallowance.

8.Onthesleevecuffs,turnupandbastetheseamallowanceonthelining.Thenturnunderthefashionfabricedgestomatch,pinandfinelyrunningstitchtofinish.

OVER-BODICEANDSKIRTFRONT,THIRDFITTINGANDFINISHINGAtlastitistimefortheover-bodice.Forourgownwehavechosenapleated,V-neckstyle,butitisatthispointthatyoumaychoosenearlyanybodicedesign.Theunder-bodiceconstructionandpurposeremainsthesame.

1.Hemallfoursidesoftheover-bodicepiece.Iftheover-bodicepiecesareambiguouslyshaped,besuretomarktheshoulder,bust,leftandrightedges.

2.Atthetopoftheshoulder,finelyknifepleatthefabrictothewidthofthebackshoulderstrap.Thevisiblesideofthepleatshouldbebetween¼and½inch(6mmand1.3cm)buttheywillbeverydeepunderneath.Pinandbasteinmultiplerowsacrossthepleatstoholdtheminplace,thenpresstosetthem.

3.Prickstitchthepleatstogetherattheshoulderedge.Besuretocatchallthelayersandadjustthepleatstokeepthemevenifnecessary.

4.Ontheunderside,backstitcheachpleat,onlycatchingtheedges,acrossthewidthofthepieceabout3½inches(8.9cm)downfromtheshoulderedge.Stitchanotherrowafewinchesdownfromthefirst.Thesestitchesshouldbelooseandinvisibleontherightside.Thiskeepsthepleatslyingcorrectlyovertheshoulder.

5.Withrightsidestogether,pinandwhipstitchtheover-bodicewaistedgetothedrawstringsectionoftheskirt.Beverycarefulnottocatchyourdrawstring.Thisistrickyandtimeconsuming,sogoslowlyandcarefully.

6.Next,putthegownonoverallunderpinningsandpintheunder-bodiceclosedatcenterfront.Tiethefrontdrawstringunderthebustandadjustthegathers.Atthispointtheover-bodicewillhang,attachedonlytothewaistlinedrawstring.

7.Gentlypullthepleatedtopedgeoftheover-bodiceovertheshouldertomeetthebackshoulderseam.Iftheshoulderedgeoftheover-bodiceistoolong,foldtheedgeundertolaywhereyoulikeandpin.Don’toverfitthispiece—youwantittolookgraceful.

8.Movetothesideoftheover-bodiceandlaytheedgealongthesideof

thebust.Placementmayvary—findthenaturalline.It’simportanttosecuretheover-bodicetotheunder-bodicetocontrolthefullnessanddrape.Repeatfortheoppositeside,thenremovethegown,leavingthepinsinplace.

9.Finelyappliquestitchtheover-bodiceshouldersintoplace,makingsuretocatchallthepleats.Thenprickstitchthesideoftheover-bodiceinplacefromtheshouldertoskirt.

10.Hemtheskirtofthegown.

Done!

1790sSash

Whilesashescameintofashioninthe1780s(yes,thismeansyoucanwearonewithyourItalianGown[here]!),theywerealltherageinthe1790s.Veryoftenwomenwouldjustuselonglengthsofwidesilkribbon,butsadlywenolongerhaveaccesstothatqualityofsilkribbon,sowehavetomakeourown.However,makingyourownribbonfromfabricyardageisanexcellentwaytouseupscrapfabric.Foroursash,wecutbrightlycoloredstripedsilkintostripsandhemmedtheedges.Lastly,thereissuchathingasasashthatistoolong.Keepthissashbetween4and6yards(4and6m)long,max.

MATERIALS•⅓–½yard(⅓–½m)of54”(137.2-cm)-widesilkfabricor4–6yards(4–6m)of4–6”(10.2–15.2-cm)-widesilkribbon

•Tassels(optional)•Silkthread(#50forhemmingand#30fortassels)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutenoughpiecestojoinforabouta4-to6-yard(4to6-m)length;54-inch(137.2-cm)-widefabricmeansyou’llneedabout3to4stripsat4inches(10.2cm)wide.

2.Tojointhepieces:placetheselvageedgestogetherandwhipstitchwithsmall,closestitches.Flattenthepiecesoutandgentlypullatthestitchestoabuttheedges.Continueaddinglengthwiththismethod.

3.Narrowhemyoursashwitha¼-inch(6-mm)-widefinishonthelongedges.Thiswilltakeawhile.Putonyourfavoritemovieandyou’llbedonebeforeyouknowit.

4.Tofinishtheends,youhaveoptions—afinehem,afringedhemorourpersonalfavorite:tassels.Withshortrunningstitches,gathertheshortendtightly.Insertthetoploopofthetasselandcarefullystitchthroughthecordtosecureitinplace,allthewayaroundtocoverit.Trimawayanyremainingloopedcord.

1790sV-NeckedRuffledChemisette

Chemisettesinthe1790scouldbequiteintegraltothefashionablelook.Thetwodesignshereappearofteninportraitureandfashionplates,bothwith the same function but quite different styles. The first is aV-neckchemisettewitharuffle.Youcanwearitpinnedshutforasuperrufflylook,orpullitopenforacasual-does-medievalappearance.

MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)cottonvoile,54”(137.1cm)wide•Silkthread(#30forseamsandgathersand#50forhemming)•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)thincordortapefordrawstring

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern(here).Hemthesideseams,frontsandnecklineofthefrontandbackpieces(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])beforehemmingthebottomofthechemisettetocreatea½-inch(1.3-cm)drawstringchannel.

2.Whipoverthefrontshoulderedgesandpullthethreadtogatherthisedgetofitthebackshoulderedges.

3.Matchthefronttothebackattheshoulderedges,rightsidestogether,andpin.Thenwhipstitchtheshoulderpiecestogether,catchingeverybumpofthegathers.

4.Finelyhemalltheedgesoftherufflepieces.Withrightsidestogether,whipstitchthefinished3.5inchshortendstogethertomakeonelongrufflepiece.Openflat,thenpress.

5.Whipstitchoverthestraightedgeoftheruffle9inches(22.9cm)ata

time,pullingupthethreadtogathertheruffledownto3inches(7.6cm)andknottingthethreadbeforecontinuingon.Gatheratintervalsuntiltherufflefitsthenecklineofthechemisette.

6.Right-sidestogether,pintheruffletothechemisetteneckline.Using#30silkthread,attachtheruffleusingawhipstitch,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.

7.Insertthedrawstringthroughallpieces.Pulleven,thentackthedrawstringatthecenterbacktosecureit.

1790sShirt-StyleChemisette

Thissecondchemisetteisinspiredbymenswear.Verysimplymade,whenwornwiththesoftnessoftheroundgown,itgivesoffthatartisticjenesaisquoiattitudeofthe“coolest”90sgals.

MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)finelinenorcottonshirting•Silkthread(#30forseams,gathersandprickstitchingand#50forhemming)orlinenthread(60/2)

•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)candlewickingornarrowtape

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern(here).Hemthesideseamsandfrontsofthefrontandbackpieces(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])beforehemmingthebottomofthechemisettetocreatea½-inch(1.3-cm)drawstringchannel.Leavethenecklineraw.

2.Felltheshoulderseams(here).

3.Next,prepthecollar.Basteup¼inch(6mm)atthebottomandtheshortsidesofthecollar.

4.Foldthecollarinhalflengthwise,liningupthebastededgesandprickstitchthecollartogether⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)startingapproximately1inch(2.5cm)fromthebaseofthecollar,goingall

thewayaroundto1inch(2.5cm)abovethebaseontheotherside.

5.Foldthecollarinhalflengthwiseagainandpress.Markthelengthofthecollarinquarterswithpins.

6.Gatherupthenecklineofthechemisetteusingthreerowsofevenlyspacedrunningstitchesinfoursectionscorrespondingtothequartersofthecollar:leftfront=firstquarter,backhalf=secondquarter,backhalf2=thirdquarter,rightfront=fourthquarter.

7.Turnuponebottomedgeofthecollarandpinitoutoftheway.Lapthebottombastededgeofthecollarovertheraw,gatherednecklineofthechemisette.Pinandfinelyhemstitch,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.

8.Releasetheremainingedgeofthecollar,lapitovertheothersideofthegatheredneckline,thenfinelyhemstitch,againcatchingineverybumpofthegathers.

9.Closeanyremainingopeningsatthefrontofthecollarwithprickstitches.

10.Runthedrawstringthroughthechannelsmadeearlier,andsecurewithacoupleofstitchesatthecenterback.

Done!

1790s“VigéeLeBrun”TurbanCap

This cap was inspired by the portraits by Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun,references from 1790s newspaper advertisements, and the Gallery ofFashionbooks.Asoliddefinitionandclearconstructionofthisheaddressis ambiguous in original sources, so we’ve interpreted it as theeighteenth-century milliner might have: the appearance of a wrappedturban with the construction of a cap. The pattern for this fun bit ofmillinery produces amoderate-sized cap, but feel free to scale up thepiecesforagrandereffect.

MATERIALS•¼yard(0.25m)linen•¼–½yard(0.25–0.5m)silkorganza•Silkthread(#30forgathers,seams,eyeletsand#50forhemming)•Linenthread(60/2optionalforcaul)•1yard(1m)candlewickingor¼”(6-mm)widetape

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepatternpieces.Basteupallsidesoftheband,andhemstitchtheshortsidesandtopedge.

2.Useanawltoworkaneyeletatbothendsofthebandjustabovethebasting.Using#30silkorlinenthread,whipstitchtheeyeletopen.Reworktheholewiththeawlaftersewing,toopentheeyeletupagain.Turnthebottomedgeofthebandupagain,overtheeyelets,andhemtocreatethedrawstringchannel.

3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)andbastearoundtheorganzacaul.Repeatforthelinencaul.Next,centerthelinencaulintheorganzacaulandpleattheorganzatofitthelinencaul.Thisdoesn’thavetobeprecisebecausethecaulisgoingtobegatheredupagainlater.

4.Whipstitchtheedgesofthetwocaulstogetherandpullthethreadtogathertheedge.Gatherandadjusttofittheband.

5.Withrightsidestogether,pinthecaultothebandandwhipstitchtogether,catchingallthebumpsofthegathers.Theshortendsofthecaulshouldmeetbutarenotsewntogether.

6.Threadnarrowtapethroughthedrawstringchannelandcutwithenoughlengthtotieasmallbow.Thisallowsthebandtobetightenedalittletokeepthecapsecure.

7.Cuttheorganzatiesaccordingtothepattern,here.Rollhemeachofthetiesonthefrontandlongsides,andstitchanormalbastedhemfortheback.Gatheruporpleatthebackofthetiestofitthewidthofthebandandappliquestitchthemtothebandattheback,justabovetheeyelets.Thetiesareleftfreeformaximumbow-tyingoptions.

1790sLinenTurbanWrap

This turbanwrap is inspiredbythebeautiful1790sportraitsofFrenchand Russian aristocrats by Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun. A wrap like thisshouldbenolessthan2-yards(2-m)long,butwe’vemadeours6yards(6m).Thatmayseemexcessive,butyou’llbesurprisedhowquicklythislengthwrapsup.Thewrapismadeoutofafinelightweightsheerlinen.Though silk was used for some turban caps and chiffonets, it can be

slipperyanddifficulttosecuretoyourheadasaturbanwrap.Byusingafine linen or cotton organdy, you can have that gauzy look but stillmaintaincontroloveryourturban.

MATERIALS•1–3yards(1–3m)of54”(137-cm)widefabric(addmoreyardageifusinganarrowertextile)

•Silkthread(#50)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutenoughstripsoffabrictocreatethedesiredlength(2to6yards[2to6m])ofyourturban.Yourturbancanbebetween10and20inches(25.4and50.8cm)wide.

2.Fell(here)theedgesofthefabrictogethertocreateonelongpiece.Whenallpiecesarejoined,hemthelongedgeswithafinerunningstitch.Thistakestime.

1790STURBANWRAPPINGTurbansofthe1790sarefunandcreative.Wrappingstylesareendless,andfashionablewomenofthisperiodtiedtheirturbansallmannerofways.There’snorightorwrongwaytowraptheseturbans—up,down,around,over,under,twisted,tucked,looped,younameit.Havefun!

1.Startwiththeturbanatthecenterfrontorcenterbackofyourheadandwrapit.Crossandtwistthefabrictogiveittextureanddimension.Keepdoingthisaroundyourheaduntilyou’rehappywithhowitlooks.

2.Asyouwrap,don’tforgettopulloutyourcurlsfromthespaces.Securelypintheturbaninplaceusingstraightorstickpins.

3.Ifyouhaveextralengthaftertheinitialturbanwrappingyoucandoa

fewdifferentthingswithit.Welovedrapingtheturbanaroundtheneckandface,withthelengthhangingdowntheback.Youcanalsohaveitdrapedoveryourshoulder,and/ortuckedintoyoursash.

1790sTheCarolineHat

Hats:welovethem,butgoodhistoricalshapescanbehardtofind.Whilea decorated or covered straw hat will serve you well, learning toconstruct your own chapeaux in buckram and wire opens a world ofpossibilitiesinanycentury.ThishatisinspiredbytheCarolineHatfromthe Gallery of Fashion, November 1795.7 While newspapers advertisemillinery wire in the eighteenth century and buckram was

commonplace,wedon’tknowforcertainifthesematerialswereusedinthe sameway aswe demonstrate here. There is evidence of buckram,wireandwaddingbeingused in the1830s forbonnets,8 but thatdoesnotmeanthatitwasusedinthe1790s.So,inpursuitoffulldisclosure,the techniquesused for thishat qualify asmodernmillinery. Sincewedon’thavethehatoptions thatourancestorsdid,wehavetomakedoandutilizetheoptionsthatareavailabletous.

MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)heavymillinerybuckram•2yards(2m)#19gaugemillinerywire•1–2yards(1–2m)cottonflannel•2yards(2m)silkforthetopofthehat•1yard(1m)silkfortheunderbrim(ifnotthesame)•¼yard(0.25m)linenorcotton•1yard(1m)candlewickingorcottontape•Silkthread(#30forallconstructionand#50forhemming)•Feathers,ribbons,fakeflowers,fruitandwhateverelseinspiresyou.

ASSEMBLY1.First:cutthebrim,crownandtoppiecesoutofheavymillinerybuckram.Cutthesamepiecesoutofflannelbutwithalargerseamallowance,markedwithapencil.Dampentheflannelandsmoothto

adheretothebuckram,makingsurethattheseamallowancemarkingsarestillvisibleontheflannel.Clipthematerialstogethertokeepinplace.Letdryovernightandcarefullyironthepiecesflannel-sideuptoflattenthebuckram.Orsimplyadheretheyardofflanneltobuckramyardagebeforecuttingoutthepiecesusingthemethodexplainedabove.

Thedampflannelactivatestheglueinthebuckram,whichishowtheycansticktogether.Whenweworkedonthisproject,wehadaslightproblemwithshrinkage,whichiswhywesuggestthesecondoptionofpastingtheflannelandbuckramtogetherfirstbeforecuttingoutthepatternpieces.

2.Whipstitchmillinerywirearoundtheoutsideedgeofthebrim,carefullywrappingandcoveringthecutwireedgeswiththread.Youwantthewiretobeonorasclosetotheedgeofthebrimaspossible.

3.Covertheedgewithalongstripof½-inch(1.3-cm)-wideflannelusing

largerunningorprickstitchesthroughbothsidestoholditintoplaceandcoverthewire.Setaside.

4.Lineupthesideseamallowanceofthecrownbandandwhipdowntheoutsideandinsideedges.It’sokayiftheflannelisraw—itwillbecoveredup.

5.Cutthenotchesthroughtheflannelandbuckramofthetopcrownandfoldthemsotheyfitintothecrownband.Quicklywhiparoundtheedgeofthecircletosecurethetwopiecestogether,adjustingthenotchesifneeded.

6.Cutoutthesilkforthetopcrownandcrownbandwithabouta¾-to1-inch(1.9-to2.5-cm)seamallowanceforbothpieces.Centerandpinthesilktopcrownpiecetothebuckram.Smoothitfromthecenteroutward,overtheedgeofthecrownband,andpininplace.Stitchthesilkonthesideofthecrownbandwithlargebastingstitches.

7.Onthesilkcrownbandpiece,bastetheshortedgethatwillformthefinishedsideseamontheoutside.Intheround,lineupthesilkcrownbandpiecerightsidestogetheratthetopoftheconstructedbuckramcrownandpin.Thesilkpiecewillstickupabovethebuckramcrown.Backstitchintoplace,keepingyourstitchesrightontheedge.

8.Folddownandpinthesilkbandoverthebuckramband.Lapthebastedshortedgeoveritscorrespondingrawedgeandappliquestitchthroughalllayerstosecure.Atthebottom,foldtheseamallowancetotheinsideandbasteitintoplacetokeepthecrownsmooth.Setaside.

9.Cutoutthesilkupperforthebrimwithanextra1-inch(2.5-cm)seamallowanceontheoutsideedge.Lineupthefabricoverthebuckramandrunningstitchinplacearoundthecrownopening.

10.Wherethebrimwillsweepup,prickstitchthesilktothebuckramworkingoutwardinrowswiththestitchesabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Youonlyneedtostitchwherethebrimcurvesupward.Testtheupwardcurveandstitchanywherethefabricneedstobeheldtothebuckram.

11.Aroundtheedgeofthebrim,smooththesilkfabricaroundthewirededgeandpininplaceuntilyouarereadytoprickstitchthelayerstogetheralongthewirededge.Trimtheexcessbrimfabricto½to1inch(1.3to2.5cm).

12.Onthebrim,clipandfolduptheseamallowanceforthecrowntothemarkedline.Withthecrownopen-sideup,placethebrimatop,continuingfoldingthetabsintothecrown.Pinaroundtheinside.Fromtheinside,carefullystitchthecrowntothebrimwithtinyappliquestitches.Theinteriorstitchingcanbemessy,buttheoutsidestitcheswillbesmallandfine.

13.Cutoutyourunder-brimfabricwithdoublethewidthoftheoriginalbrimpatternontheouteredge.Thiswillprovidetheextravolumetobegatheredup.Cuttheovalopenononeofthelongsidesofthebrim,andbasteoneedgeup¼inch(6mm).

14.Rightsidestogether,pintheunder-brimfabrictothecentersides,centerfrontandcenterbackpointsalongthehatbrim.Startingatoneofthesepoints,tackthepointinplaceandthencontinuewitharunningstitchabout¼inch(6mm)fromtheedgeoftheunder-brimfabric.Whenyou’vereachedthenextanchorpoint,drawuptherunningstitchtomatchthehatbrim,thentackstitchagainandcarryontothenextanchorpoint.

15.Whenthebrimliningiscompletelygatheredandanchored,adjustthefullnessthrougheachsection,pinningasneeded.Finelyrunningstitchtheliningfabrictotheseamallowancenexttothewirethatwasfoldedoverfromthetopwithafinerunningstitch,onlycatchingthefabricandstayingrightnexttothewire.

16.Withtheouteredgegatheredandstitched,turntheunder-brimfabricoutside-in,overthehatbrimcompletely,soitnowlaysovertheundersideofthebrim.Stitchthecutseamthatyoubastedearlierinplaceusingfineappliqueorprickstitches.

17.Bringtheunder-brimliningtothecrownandarrangeintopleats,pinningasyougo.Runningstitchtheliningtothecrown,yourstitcheswillgothroughthecrown,butyouwillcoverthispartupwithribbontohideallthesins.Youwilladdthefinallinenliningtothecrownafteryou’vedecoratedyourhat.Itiseasiertodecoratethehatwhenyoudon’thavetopullthecrownliningoutoftheway.Additionally,theliningwillcoverupalltheuglysewingthatwilloccurwhenyou’reattachingyourtrim.

18.Nowyouneedtodecorateyourhat.Startbywrappingribbonaroundthecrown,seamingatthecenterbackwithappliquestitches.Thiswillcoverupthestitchingfromearlier.

19.Therearemanydifferentwaystodecorateahat,andwebelieveitisbesttofollowaperiodimageforinspiration.Tomakepoufsand4-loopbows,refertopages65,andfor5-loopbows,seehere.Don’tforgetthatostrichfeathers,veilsandfauxflowers/fruitwerereallypopularforhatdecoration.Apply,arrangeandroughlytackstitchfeathersandotherdecorationsinplacetoholdtheirpositions.Thevariationsareendlessandcompletelyuptoyourwhims.

20.Afterdecoratingyourhat,addtheliningtothecrown.Cutalongrectangularpieceoflinenfollowingthebandpattern,subtracting1to2inches(2.5to5cm)inwidthbeforeaddingtheseamallowance.Basteallsidesoftheband.

21.Hemtheshortsidesandtopedgeofthelining,makingsureyoucaninsertadrawstringatthetop.Matchuptheshortsidesandwhipstitchtogether,leavingthetop½inch(1.3cm)openforthedrawstring.Runthedrawstringthroughthechannel.

22.Pintheliningintotheinsideofthecrown,matchingthebastedbottomedgetothebottomofthecrown.Appliquestitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebottomedgeoftheliningtojusttheunder-brimfabric.Pullupthedrawstringtoadjustthefit.

1790sGiantFurMuff

While muffs were popular throughout the century, the 1790s seemedlike the best place to explain how tomake one. Not onlyweremuffssuperpopularduringthedecade,theyweresuperbigaswell!Thelargesize of the muffs during this decade make them great hand and armwarmers for men and women alike … and for the occasional pillowfight. If you’d like to adapt this muff for earlier decades, shrink thediagrammeasurementstosuit.Muffs canbe covered in furor silk andcanbe lined in silkoramoreutilitarianfabric.Whilewe’vemadeoursoutoffauxfur,thetechniques—razorcutting,tapingtheedges,etc.—maybeappliedtoworkingwithrealfur,too.

MATERIALS•1yard(1m)fauxfur•1yard(1m)silktaffeta•2yards(2m)½–1”(1.3–2.5-cm)-widecottonorlinentape•Downfeathers,cottonorwoolstuffing

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutyourmaterialsaccordingtothediagram.Youwillprobablyneedtojoinpiecesoffurtogether.Tocutthefur,gentlyslicealongthehidesidewitharazor.Donotcutthefurwithscissorsunlessyou

wanthairallovereverythingyouown.Cuttingwitharazorallowsyoutopiercejustthehide/backsidewithoutcuttingthehairs,whichmakesthejoiningnearlyinvisible.

2.Tojointhefur,laytherawedgesflat,hide-sideup,sotheytoucheachother,andwhipstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotwhiptheedgesrightsidestogether,asthiswillcatchtoomuchfur.Byabuttingtheedges,youwillmakeasmallridgeforthejoinandminimizethelookofthejoinontheexterior.Oncejoined,useapinto“scratch”outanycaughthairs.

3.Laythetapealongtheedgeontopofthefur,andrunningstitchinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])throughthehide.Trimthefurawayunderthetapetoreducebulk.

4.Turnthetapetotheinside.Allowtheedgesofthefurtorollinbyaboutaninch(2.5cm)ormoretocreateaseamallowance.Hemstitchtheedgeofthetapetothebacksideofthefur.

Whenusingrealfur,cutapieceofthin,tightlywovenfabricthesamesizeasthefurpieceandlayitagainstthehidesideofthefurbeforeturningtheedges.Turnthetapededgestotheinsideandhemstitchtothisfabricinterlininginsteadoftothehideitself.Thisisalsoadvisableforloose-knitbackingonfauxfurtopreventthedownfeathersfrompokingthrough.

5.Forlining,bastethesilkup¼inch(6mm)ononelongedge.Layitagainstthehidesideofthefurpiece,matchingthebastededgeuptothetape,andhemstitchinplace(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Opentheliningpieceouttotheside.

6.Tojointhemufftogether,abuttheshortedgesofthefurpieceandwhipstitchfromtheback.Thenbackstitchtheshortedgesoftheliningtogether(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Becarefultofullystitchtotheedgewheretheliningmeetsthefurpiece.

7.Turnthemuffinsideoutandpulltheliningoverthefurpiece.Turnandpintheedgeoftheliningundertomeetthetapededgeofthefur.Hemstitchtheliningtothetape,leavingopenabout12inches(30cm)forstuffing(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

8.Stuffthemuffwithfeathersoryourfillingofchoice.Besurenottooverfill,andifyou’reusingfeathers,it’sbesttodoitoutside.Finally,hemstitchtheremaining12inches(30cm)closed,thenturnthemuffright-sideout.

1790sThe“SundaeBest”Reticule

The1790s is thedecadewhere the reticule, a small purse—sometimesridiculouslysmall,hencethename“ridicule”or“reticule”—reallycomesinto fashion. Reticules could be large, small, boring, whimsical,complicatedorextremelysimple.Forthisbook,we’vecreatedtwostylesfor your amusement. First is the hard-bottom “Sundae Best” Reticule,and the second is a soft-bodied “Frog” Reticule (here). Trims,embroidery and colors are up to you.Remember that the 1790s lovedcolorfulandboldaccessories,sobebraveandhavefunwithyourcolorchoices!

MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)silkin1or2colors•1OldAmericanDuchessshoebox•1yard(1m)of¼”(6-mm)-widesilkribbonfortie•Silkthread(#30seamsand#50hems)•2yards(2m)metalliclacetrim•1–2fringetassels

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthetoppiecesaccordingtothepattern.Measuredown2.75inches(7cm)fromthetop,andmarkwithapinonbothsidesofbothpieces.Finelyhembothedgesofthat2.75inches(7cm).

2.Folddownthetop¼inch(6mm)andbaste.Folddown,again,1inch(2.5cm)andhem(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Fromthathemmededge,measureup¼inch(6mm)anddoafinerunningstitchtocreatethedrawstringcasing.

3.Seamuponesideofthebagusingthemantuamaker’sseam,andprepthesecondseambybastingdownthesidessotheycanbefelledtogetherafterthebagisattachedtothebottom.

4.Foldthebottomup¼inch(6mm)sotherawedgeisontherightsideofthebagandbaste.Therawedgewillbeprotectedbythehardbottomofthereticuleifdonethisway.Ifyoubastetheopposite,therawedgewillbeexposedtoyourhandandwhateverelseyouputinthereticule.Setaside.

5.Cutoutthecardboardandsilkbottompiecesaccordingtothepattern.Besuretoadd½inch(1.3cm)seamallowanceforthesilkpieces.

6.Scorethemiddleofthetriangularpiecessotheywillbend,butdonotbreak.(Iftheydobreak,it’sOK.Youwilljusthavetomakeeverypieceupindividually,buttheoutcomewillbethesame!)

7.Rightsidestogether,backstitchthesilkpiecestogether,leavingthetopopen,tocreatetwopouchesforthecardboard.Turnrightsidesoutandpresstheseamssmooth.Insertthecardboardpiecesintotheircovers.

8.Foldtheseamallowanceinwardandwhipclosed.Youwantthesilktobetightandsmoothoverthecardboard.Whipstitchonesideseamofthehardbottompiecestogether(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

9.Nowlet’sbringthepiecestogether.Withtheinteriorofthehardbottomopen,laythetopofthereticule½to¾inch(1.3to1.9cm)downfromthetopedgeofthecardboard,liningupthesideseams,andpinningtuckstoeasetherestofthetopofthebagtothecardboardbottom.Hemstitchthetoptothebottom,makingsuretocatchalllayersofthetucks.Thisisabittricky,andit’sokayifit’smessy.Noonewilleverseeit.

10.Closethereticuleandcarefullywhipthehardbottomsideseamclosedfromtheoutside.Then,lineupandpinthesideseamofthetoptogetherandstitchclosedwitheitheranappliquestitchorfinerunningstitches(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).

11.Takeyourmetalliclaceandcutalengththatwillcoveroneofthefouredgesofthebottomofthereticuleincludingseamallowance.Foldtheseamallowanceoverthetopofthecardboardandstitchintoplace.Carefullycouchthetrimtotheback,takinggreatcaretokeepyourstitchesasinvisibleaspossible.Whenyoureachthebottom,tucktheextralaceintothehole.Repeatonalledgesofthebottomofthereticule.

12.Now,takeyourtasselsandinserttheloopintotheholeatthebottomofthecone,makingsurethatalltheseamallowancesfromthetrimandsilkcoversarealsoinserted.Whiptheholeclosedtosecurethetasselsandtrim.

13.Insertyourtwolengthsofribbonatthetop,soyoucanpullthebagclosed,andknottheends.

1790sThe“Frog”Reticule

Though “Frog” is not a technical name for this bag, the green silkreminded us of a cute little frog andwe couldn’t help ourselves! Thissmall and soft reticule canbe scaledup for a larger size, andyou canalsoembroideraprettydesignonthebodyofthereticulebeforeputtingittogether.

MATERIALS•¼yard(¼meter)silktaffeta•1yard(1meter)¼”(6mm)-widesilkribbonforties•4–8tassels•Silkthread(#30forseams&#50forhems)

ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesfromtheprovidedpattern(here)andmeasuredown3inches(7.6cm)onbothsidesofbothpiecesatthetopofthereticule,mark,andfinelyhem.Foldandbastethetop¼inch(6mm)ofthepiecesdown.Foldthetopdownanother1inch(2.5cm)andfinelyhemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Measureup¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)fromthehemmededge,anddoafinerunningstitchtocreatetheribbonchannelandruffleforthetopofthereticule.

2.Laybothpiecesrightsidestogetherandpin.

3.Mantuamaker’sseamthereticuletogether,andwhileyou’rebastingtheseam,ateachpointwhereyouwantthetassels,insertthembetweenthelayersbeforeyoumakeyourbastestitch.You’llwantthetasseltobeinsidethebag(becauseit’stherightside)andyou’llseetheloopthatholdsthetasseltogetherwhenyou’resewing.Foldandbastetheedgesandthetasselloop.Finishthemantuamaker’sseamofyourbag,beingsuretocatchyourtasselloopsasyousew.Thiskeepsthetasselssecureandkeepsthestringsoutofyourwaywhenyouusethebag.

4.Turnthebagrightsideoutandpresseverythingsmooth.Inserttheribbondrawstringsatthetopofyourbag.

Done!

GettingDressedandWearingYour1790sEnsemblewithStyle

ASSEMBLY1.Putonyourshift,stockings,shoesandstays.

2.Next,putonyourunder-petticoatbytyingthedrawstringatthecenterfront,justbelowthebust.

3.Ifyouarewearingachemisette,nowisthetimetoputiton,tyingitatthecenterfront.

4.Putonyourgownandpintheunder-bodiceofthegownintoplaceatthecenterfront,thentiethegowndrawstringatthecenterfrontandtuckthetailsintotheskirtfrontopening.Adjustthebodiceandchemisettetosuityourtastes.

5.PutonyourTurbanCap,CarolineHatorwrapyourturban.

6.Ifyouarewearingasash,putitonnow.Youcantucktheedgesofyourturbanintothesash.Thereareendlesswaystowearalongsashlikethisone.Wrapitaroundandaroundandtiewithabigbowatthebackorside.Wrapitaroundthehighwaistandupandovertheshouldersforadifferentlook.Allowtheendstotrailorloopthemup.Mostimportantly,havefun!

7.Grabyourreticuleandmuffandheadonoutthedoor!

Nowyou’rereadytogolookatartattheSalon!

Troubleshooting

GAPINGNECKLINECause: The shoulder straps are too loose, too long or on the bias andstretchingout.Solution: Be sure the shoulder straps are cut on the straight of grain.Recut ifnecessary.Refit the shoulder straps through thebackshoulderseams,pullinguptheexcesstight.Ifthenecklinestillgapesatthefront,adjusttheseamortakeasmalltucktosmooththefit.

BODICEFRONTSIDEWRINKLESCause:Thefrontbodicepiecesarecutonthestraight,andthestaysare

curvierinthefront.-or—Thewaistedgesaretoolong.Solution:Double-checkthatthefrontbodicepiecesarecutontheslightbias,recutifnecessary,orseeifyoucanadjustthefitofthecenterfrontseamtohavemorebias.-or—Clip and turn up the raw waist edge on the body and over all yourunderpinnings,pullingdowntowardthewaistandsmoothingthepiecesfromarmpittowaist.

BODICEFRONTARMPITWRINKLESCause:Thearmscyesaretootight.Solution: Carefully clip the armscye to release the tension and smooththewrinkles upward into the armpit.Do not overcut or youmight havemoreproblemsdowntheroad!

BUBBLYBODICEFRONTCause:Thebodicefrontpiecesarecutonthestraight,andyourstaysare“thrusty.”-or—Thebodiceneedssmoothingoverthebust.Solution:Firsttrysmoothingtheexcessfabricfromthesidetothecenterfront, pulling taught. Pin and redraw the center front line. This mayresult in a curved front edge, especially for larger busts and “thrusty”stays.-or—Recutyourbodicepiecessothecenterfrontisontheslightbias.

BUBBLYORLOOSEBACKPIECESCause:Thecenterbackpiecesarecutonthestraight.-or—Yourmodelissway-backed.Solution: Check that the back pieces are on the slight bias. Recut ifnecessary.-or—Onthebodyandoverall theunderpinnings,smooththepiecestowardthecenterbackseam,pinchinguptheexcess.Markthenewseamline.

SIDEBACKWRINKLESCause: The sidebackpieces are slightly twistedwhere they are joinedandarepulling.Solution: Release the side back seams prick stitches. On the body andover all the underpinnings, smooth the side back pieces downward tosmoothoutthewrinkles.Overlaptheturnededgeofthesidebackseamand repin. Remove from the body and prick stitch the new seam inplace.

WRINKLEDBACK—STRESSLINESCause:Thebodiceisoverfittedandtootight.Solution:Loosenup!Adjustyourpinningatthecenterfrontclosureor,ifnecessary, loosenthesideseams.Refit thesideseamsonthebodyandoveralltheunderpinnings.

SHOULDERSTRAPSFALLINGDOWNCause:Theshoulderstrapsaresettoowide.-or—Thesleeveheadistooshallowandispullingtheshoulderstrapofftheshoulder.-or—The shoulder straps have accidently been cut on the bias and havestretchedout.Solution: At the back shoulder seams, release and reset the shoulderstrapsatanarrowerangle,closertothecenterbackseam.-or—Remove the sleeves and recut or piece with a higher sleeve head.Remember,it’salwaysbettertohaveabitmoreinthesleeveheadthannotenough.-or—

Recutandrefitthestrapsonthestraightofgrain.

SLEEVESARETOOTIGHT

Cause:Thesleevesarecut/sewntoonarrow.Solution:Restitchtheseams,orrecutthesleeveswithmoreease.-or—Addatriangulargoreattheunderarmeitheratyoursleeveseamorcutintothesleeveattheunderarmandaddthegorethere.

SLEEVESARETWISTEDCause:Thesleeveispinnedorstitchedontwistedatthearmscye.Solution: Release the sleeve and reset, working the fitment until thetwistsareworkedout.-or—Recutthebottomofthesleevetoshortenit.

STRAIGHTSLEEVESARESTACKINGATTHEELBOWCause:Thesleevesaretoolong,causingstackingupatthecrookofthearm.Solution:Takeatuckupwardatthecrookofthearm,shorteningjustthefrontofthesleeve,andprickstitchintoplace.-or—Recutthebottomofthesleevetoshortenit.

SACQUESILHOUETTEISROUNDANDBUBBLYCause:Thesacquefrontskirtpanelsarecutstraightatthefrontandsideedges.Solution: The sacque front skirt panelsmust be cut on the straight ofgrainbutwiththesideseamatanangleandthefrontedgecutorfoldedback at an angle to expose the decorative petticoat. The correctsilhouetteistrapezoidalratherthanroundedorbulbous.

SACQUETRAINBUCKLESCause: The train folds up on itself due to too little fabric in the skirtcircumferenceatthehemcombinedwithmisplacedsidepleats.Solution: Add a gored panel at the side seam, between the front skirtpanelandthebackbreadth,thenre-pleattheskirt,workingthefullnessof the skirt toward the side-back seam. The side pleats that controlvolume over the pocket hoops should be placed further back than thetrueside-seam.

SAGGYSADSACQUEBACKCause:Thefabricistooheavyandispullingdownward.-or—Thepleatedbacklacksthethirdpleatsocollapsesinonitselfagainstthebackinsteadofflowingoutward.Solution:Reinforcethebindingatthetopedge.Alsosecurelystitchtheouterfabrictothebodiceliningunderthepleatsatthesideback.-or—Repleatthebacktoincludethethird,hiddenpleatasshownhere.

FRONTSKIRTPANELSBUCKLINGATWAISTCause: The skirt needs fitting at the curved waist edge. There is toomuchvolumejustbelowthewaistedge.Solution:Releasethetopedgeoftheskirtpanel.Onthebodiceandoverallunderpinnings,pullupwarduntil theskirthangssmoothly.Foldtheexcessoverorcutitoff,thenrestitchtheskirttothewaistedge.

SAGGYHOOPEDSILHOUETTECause: Thewidth of the top of the hoop is too long and is drooping,and/orthehoopsaretiedtoolowonthewaist.Solution:Tiethehoopsatyourtruewaist.-or—Shorten the topof thehoops tobring themuphigheron thehips.Seehereforourhooppattern.

PETTICOATISTOOSHORTINBACKORONTHESIDESCause: The petticoat breadth is cut all one length instead of with ashapedtoptofitoverunderpinnings(bum,pads,hoops,etc.).Solution: Measure over the bum or hoops, waist to floor. Cut thepetticoatandskirtpanelaccordingtothelongestmeasurement.Thencutor fold at the waist edge to level the hem over the underpinning.Petticoatsmaybe leveledonthebodyoronadress form.For levelingoverhoops,seehere.Forlevelingoverasplitbum,seehere.

Appendix

CITATIONS

HISTORICSTITCHESANDHOWTOSEWTHEM1.Rasmussen,Pernilla.Skräddaren,sömmerskanochmodet:Arbetsmetoderocharbetsdelningitillverkningenavkvinnligdräkt1770-1830,pg.188-189,NordiskaMuseetHandlinger,2010.

2.ALady,TheWorkwoman’sGuide:AGuideto19thCenturyDecorativeArts,FashionandPracticalCrafts1838,page2,PiperPublishingLLC,2002.

CHAPTER2:THEENGLISHGOWN,1740S1.Waugh,Norah.CutofWomen’sClothes1600–1930,MPGBooksGroup,1968.

2.Crowston,ClareHaru.FabricatingWomen,pg.40,DukeUniversityPress,2001.

3.TheCompleteVocabularyinEnglishandFrench,andinFrenchandEnglish…,pg.85,1785.Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.

4.Boyer,Abel.Boyer’sRoyalDictionaryabridged.Intwoparts.1.FrenchandEnglish2.EnglishtoFrench,“Fourreau,”1777,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.

5.TheCompleatFrenchMasterforLadiesandGentlemen,pg.173,1744,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.

6.Buck,Ann,DressinEighteenth-CenturyEngland,pg.187,Holmes&

MeierPublishers,1979.

7.Montgomery,Florence.TextilesinAmerica:1650–1870,W.W.Norton&CompanyInc.,2007.

8.AmericanSheepIndustryAssociation,“FastFacts,AboutAmericanWoolIndustry”https://www.sheepusa.org/ResearchEducation_FastFacts,November2016.

9.Buck,Ann.DressinEighteenth-CenturyEngland,pg.187,Holmes&MeierPublishers,1979.

10.May,JohnJune,1749,BritishMuseum,1850,1109.32.

CHAPTER3:THESACQUEGOWN1760S-1770S1.APortraitofaLady,1768,FrancisCotes,TateMuseumLondon,N04689.

2.Arnold,Janet.PatternsofFashion:Englishwomen’sDressesandTheirConstructionc.1660–1860,pg.25,Macmillan/QSM,1964.

3.TheworksofLaurenceSterneM.A.Insevenvolumes,Sterne,Laurence(1713-1768),London:printedfortheproprietors,1783,Volume7.

4.Thisinformationisasummarizationofthreetofouryearsofcarefulstudyoforiginalimages,andperiodhairdressingmanuals,magazinesandnewspapers.

5.Whenstudyingoriginalsilkgowns,skirtpanelswereoftensewnselvagetoselvage.Theirmeasurementsconsistentlyrangefrom18to24inches(45.7to60.9cm)wide.

6.TheUnwelcomeCustomer,JohnCollet&JamesCaldwell,August17,1772,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,1953-205.

7.TheLoveLetter,JeanHonoréFragonard,c.early1770s,MetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,49.7.49.

CHAPTER4:THEITALIANGOWN,1770S-1790S1.Wenman,J.TheMagazineàlamode,orFashionablemiscellany,October1777,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.

2.Cruttwell,R.ThenewBathguide;or,Usefulpocketcompanion…Anewedition,correctedandmuchenlarged,FirstEdition:1777,Reprinted1784,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.

3.QueenCharlotteworean“Italiannight-gownandpetticoatofwhitesattinandsilvergauze,trimmedwithVandykesofgreenfoilofrichgoldtrimandtassels.”March28–30,1792,TheEveningMail,BurneyPapersDigitalArchive,November2016.

4.TheTownandCountryMagazine,December1776,pg.650,OxfordUniversityviaGoogleBooks,March2017.

5.Watt,Melinda.“TextileProductioninEurope:Printed,1600–1800.”InHeilbrunnTimelineofArtHistory.NewYork:TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2000–.http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_p/hd_txt_p.htm(October2003)6.Sardar,Marika.“IndianTextiles:TradeandProduction.”InHeilbrunnTimelineofArtHistory.NewYork:TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2000–.http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm(October2003)7.Goadby,R.TheWeeklyMiscellany;Or,InstructiveEntertainer:ContainingaCollectionofSelectPieces,BothinProseandVerse;CuriousAnecdotes,InstructiveTales,andIngeniousEssaysonDifferentSubjects,Volume7,December16,1776,NewYorkPublicLibrary,March2017.

8.TheBumShop,c.1785,MetropolitanMuseumofArt.NewYork,1970.541.12.

9.VanCleave,Kendra,andBrookeWelborn.“VeryMuchtheTasteandVariousaretheMakes:ReconsideringtheLateEighteenth-CenturyRobeàlaPolonaise,”DressVol39No.1,2013,CostumeSocietyofAmerica.

10.TheFairPenitent,1781,BritishMuseum,2010,7081.1022.11.Plenty/L’Abondance,c.1780,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,1980-232.

CHAPTER5:THEROUNDGOWN,1790S1.Bissonette,Anne,andSarahNash.“TheRe-BirthofVenus:Neo-ClassicalFashionandtheAphroditeKallipygos,”Dress:Vol41No.1,2015.

2.Thestudyoforiginalgarmentsshowsthesubtleriseinwaistlinesoverthelate1780sandearly1790s.Forexample:PrintedCottonJacketandPetticoat,c.1790,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,AccessionNo.1990-10showsalterationsofraisingthewaistapprox.1inch(2.5cm)fromthepreviousconstruction,withwhatappearstobekeepingeverythingelseaboutthegarmentintact.

3.Huenlich,R.HowtoDistinguishQuicklyCottonfromLinen,TheMelliand,Vol.2,No.11(February1931),2pages.PostedDecember11,2002,UniversityofArizona.

4.England,John.IrishLinen,TheIrishLinenStory.http://johnengland.com/irish-linen-story/,March2017.

5.Arnold,Janet.PatternsofFashion:Englishwomen’sDressesandTheirConstructionc.1660–1860,pg.46,Macmillan/QSM,1964.

6.SnowshillWadeCostumeCollection,Gloucestershire,DressSkirt,1790-1800,NT1348737.1.

7.Heideloff,N.GalleryofFashion:Volume2,1795,BunkaGakuenDigitalArchivesofRareMaterials,AccessedJanuary2017.

8.ALady,TheWorkwoman’sGuide:AGuideto19thCenturyDecorativeArts,FashionandPracticalCrafts1838,pg.158,PiperPublishingLLC,2002.

WORKSCITEDCountess Ekaterina Vasilievna Skaronskaya, Élisabeth Louise Vigée LeBrun,1790,InstitutdeFrance,MuséeJacquemart-André,Paris(MJAP-P578)LadyMaryCunliffe,FrancisCotes,1768,WalkerArtGallery,WAG1514MariaLuisadiBorbone,PrincessoftheTwoSicilies,ÉlisabethLouiseVigéeLe Brun, 1790, Museo di Capodimonte, Naples (OA 7228)May, JohnJune,1749,BritishMuseum,1850,1109.32

Plenty/L’Abondance, Carington Bowles, 1780, Colonial WilliamsburgFoundation,1980-232PortraitofaLady,FrancisCotes,1768,TateMuseum,N04689Portrait of Marquise d’Orvilliers, Jacques-Louis David, 1790, LouvreMuseum,RF2418Princess Louisa and Princess Caroline, Francis Cotes, 1767, The RoyalCollection,RCIN404334Self-Portrait,ÉlisabethLouiseVigéeLeBrun,1790,GalleriedegliUffizi,CorridoioVasariano,Florence,1890,n.1905September, Thomas Burford, 1745, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation,1988-291,9

EXTANTGOWNSCITEDNote:Thegarmentslistedbelowareaselectionoftheoriginalmuseumpiecesthathavebeencarefullystudiedandexaminedinpersonbytheauthors.Thesegarmentswerenotonpublicdisplayatthetime,givingtheauthorsunprecedentedaccesstoconstructionanddesigndetails.Thislistdoesnotincludetheassortmentoforiginalpiecesthathavebeenstudiedthatareheldinprivatecollections.

LOSANGELESCOUNTYMUSEUMOFARTLACMACottonItalianGownM.80.138LACMAPink/GreenSackM.2007.211.720A-BLACMASilkRedingoteM.57.24.9LACMARidingHabitM.82.16.2a-c

THECOLONIALWILLIAMSBURGFOUNDATIONCWF2009-43.3CWF1996-95CWF1991-449A-CCWF1989-446

CWF1989-330CWF1991-520CWF1991-520CWF1991-519CWF1983-230CWF2000-86CWF1947-511(4464)CWF1988-223CWF1990-10CWF1991-450CWF1991-470CWF1951-150CWF1991-466A&BCWF1991-474,ACWF1983-233

GLASGOWMUSEUMS/THEBURRELLCOLLECTION1932.51.oE.1940.47.c

NORDISKAMUSEET,STOCKHOLMNM.0186311NM.0222648A-ENM.0020602NM.0158629

BIBLIOGRAPHYANDFURTHERREADING“AmericanSheepIndustry|FastFacts.”AmericanSheepIndustry|FastFacts. Accessed January 10, 2017.http://www.sheepusa.org/ResearchEducation_FastFacts“What Makes Wool So Special?” Accessed January 10, 2017.http://www.woolrevolution.com/virtues.htmlALady,TheWorkwoman’sGuide:AGuideto19thCenturyDecorativeArts,

FashionandPracticalCrafts,PiperPublishingLLC,1838/2002.Akiko Fukai, Tamami Suoh, Miki Iwagami, Reiko Koga, and Rii Nie.Fashion:AHistoryfromthe18th–20thCentury,Taschen,2005.AldenO’Brien,AnAgreeableTyrant:FashionAftertheRevolutionExhibitionCatalogue,DARMuseum,2016.Anne Buck. Dress in Eighteenth-Century England, Holmes & MeierPublishersInc.,1979.BiancaM.DuMortierandNinkeBloemberg,Accessorize!250ObjectsofFashion&Desire,Rijksmuseum&YaleUniversityPress,2012.ClareHaruCrowston.FabricatingWomen:TheSeamstressesofOldRegimeFrance1675–1791,DukeUniversityPress,2001.Cristina Barreto, Anita Lawrence,Martin Lancaster, Elizabeth Tauroza,andMichaelDavidHaggerty.NapoleonandtheEmpireofFashion:1795–1815.Milano:Skira,2010.FlorenceM.Montgomery,TextilesinAmerica1650–1870,W.W.Norton&Company,2007.Gail Marsh. 18th Century Embroidery Techniques, Guild of MasterCraftsmanPublicationsLtd,2006.Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton. Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion andFurniture in the EighteenthCentury,MetropolitanMuseumofArt&YaleUniversityPress,2006.Janet Arnold. Patterns of Fashion: Englishwomen’s Dresses and TheirConstructionc.1660–1860,Macmillan/QSM,1964.John Styles. The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in EighteenthCenturyEngland,YaleUniversityPress,2007.John Styles. Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital’s TextileTokens1740–70,SynergieGroupUK,2010.JosephBaillio, Katharine Baetjer, Paul Lang, and EkaterinaDeryabina.VigéeLeBrun.NewYork:MetropolitanMuseumofArt,2016.KimberlyChrisman-Campbell.FashionVictims:DressattheCourtofLouisXVIandMarie-Antoinette.NewHaven:YaleUniversityPress,2015.Linda Baumgarten.Eighteenth-Century Clothing atWilliamsburg, ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,1993.

Linda Baumgarten, John Watson, and Florine Carr. Costume Close-Up:Clothing Construction and Pattern 1750–1790, Colonial WilliamsburgFoundation/QSM,1999.Linda Baumgarten. What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing inColonialandFederalAmerica,TheColonialWilliamsburgFoundationandYaleUniversityPress,2002.Marika Sardar. “Indian Textiles: Trade and Production.” In HeilbrunnTimeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art,2000–.http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm(October2003).MelindaWatt. “Textile Production in Europe: Printed, 1600–1800.” InHeilbrunnTimelineofArtHistory.NewYork:TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_p/hd_txt_p.htm(October2003).NancyBradfield.CostumeinDetail,1730–1930.Hollywood,CA:Costume&FashionPress,2009.NorahWaugh.Cut ofWomen’s Clothes 1600–1930, MPG Books Group,1968.Pauline Rushton. 18th Century Costume in National Museums Liverpool,NationalMuseumsLiverpool,2004.Pernilla Rasmussen. Skräddaren, sömmerskan och modet: Arbetsmetoderoch arbetsdelning i tillverkningen av kvinnlig dräkt 1770–1830, NordiskaMuseetHandlinger,2010.Sharon Sadako Takeda and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion:EuropeanDressinDetail1700–1915,LosAngelesCountyMuseumofArtandDelmonicoBooks,2012.SoniaAshmore.Muslin,VictoriaandAlbertPublishing,2012.Victoria and Albert Museum, British Textiles 1700 to the Present, V&APublishing,2010.

SupplierList

SHOES,STOCKINGSANDBUCKLESAmericanDuchessInc.,www.AmericanDuchess.com

FABRICS,SILKRIBBONANDTHEBESTSILKTHREADFORDRESSMAKINGBritexFabrics,SanFrancisco,www.britexfabrics.com

FABRICS,NECK-HANDKERCHIEFS,THREADS,PATTERNSANDASSORTEDNOTIONSBurnley&TrowbridgeCompany,www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com

FABRICS,PATTERNSANDSOMENOTIONSWilliamBooth,Draper,www.wmboothdraper.com

FABRICSilkBaron,www.silkbaron.comPureSilks,www.puresilks.usRenaissanceFabrics,www.renaissancefabrics.netMoodFabricsInc,www.moodfabrics.com

Acknowledgments

ABBY’SACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Iwouldnothavebeenabletocoauthorthisbookifitwasn’tformyexperienceworkingfortheColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,specificallytheMargaretHunterMillineryShop.JaneaWhitacre,MarkHutter,BrookeWelborn,NealHurst,SarahWoodyardandMikeMcCartyarenotonlymyfriendsbutfellowscholarsinthefield.TheexchangeofinformationbetweenusthroughoutmyyearsatColonialWilliamsburghavehelpedshapethisbook.Also,mygratitudegoesouttoLindaBaumgarten,theformercuratorofCostumeandTextilesatColonialWilliamsburg,andAngelaBurnleyforbeingmymentorsandfriends.A

hugethankyoutooureditor,LaurenKnowles,andtheincrediblestaffatPageStreetPublishingforworkingwithusthroughthisprocess.Mydeepestloveandgratitudetomyfamilyfortheirloveandsupport,specificallytomymother,SusanMeeks,foralltheStarbucksgiftcardsandsmallgiftstokeepupmorale,andtomycoauthor,Lauren,forincludingmeinthisonce-in-a-lifetimeopportunity.Finally,toMaggieRoberts,becauseyouarearockstar,andwecouldn’thavedonethisbookwithoutyoursupport.

LAUREN’SACKNOWLEDGMENTS

Iwouldliketothanktheamazinglysupportivehistoricalcostumingcommunityacrosstheworld,withoutwhichnoneofthiswouldbepossibleorneeded.Also,thankyoutoChrisStowell,whoputupwithourmesses;MaggieRoberts,forhelpingusmakethem;andAlbertRobertsforgraciouslylettingushaveher.Wewouldalsoliketo

acknowledgetheMetropolitanMuseumofArtandLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArtfortheirsupportiveandprogressivepoliciesinsharingtheircollectionsandmakingthemavailableforpublicuse.Additionally,we’dliketothanktheauthorsandresearchersofourcollectivepasts—JanetArnold,NancyBradfield,LindaBaumgarten,NorahWaugh—whoseworksweconstantlyreferbackto,andtheteamatPageStreetPublishingforgivingustheopportunitytojointheranks.Finally,IwouldliketothankAbbyCox,whohasbeenateacher,friendandpartnerthroughoutmyhistoricalcostumingjourney.

Index

Theindexthatappearedintheprintversionofthistitledoesnotmatchthe pages in your eBook. Please use the search function on youreReadingdevicetosearchfortermsof interest.Foryourreference, thetermsthatappearintheprintindexarelistedbelow.

appliquestitchapron1740sorganzaandlaceruffled

armscyes

backpadbackstitchblockprintingbodiceEnglishgownItaliangownroundgownsacquegowntroubleshootingwrinkles

bows5-loop1780s

bubblybodicefront

bubblyorloosebackpiecesbustdarts

cap1740searly1780sorganzaandlaceVigéeLeBrunturbancapCarolinehatchemisetteshirt-styleV-neckedruffledcorsetscrosslacingcuffseighteenth-centuryEnglishgownpleatedcuffsshapedstraight

draping

edgehemstitchedgestitchelbowrufflesEnglishgownapronassemblyattachingtheskirtsbodicecapchoicesforfabricfor

firstfittinggettingdressedandwearingmaterialsformittsneckhandkerchiefpetticoatsecondfittingsleevesandcuffsstomacherstrawhatundergarmentsEnglishstitch

fabricscrapsfacedhemfalserumpsfellingfitting5-loopbowsflounces“Frog”reticule

gapingnecklineGeorgiansilhouettegiantfurmuffgownsEnglishItalianmantuaroundsacquegriddedpatterns

hairstyling,forsacquegownhandkerchief,neckhatsCarolinehatsilk-covered“brain”hatstrawhat

hems,facedhemstitchwithbastingherringbonestitchhistoricstitcheshoops

Italiangownattachingtheskirtsbodicecapforchoicesforfabricforfalserumpfinalfittingfirstfittinggettingdressedandwearingmaterialsfornecktuckerandelbowrufflespoufsandbowsruffledapronforsilk-covered“brain”hatforsilkpetticoatsleeves

lacetuckerlinen

mantuagownmantuamaker’sseammittsmock-upsmuffs

narrowhemneckhandkerchiefnecklace,ribbonchokernecktucker

organzaandlaceapronorganzaandlacecaporganzaandlacetreblestackedsleeveflouncespaperpatternspatternspetenl’airpetticoatsEnglishgownunder-petticoatsacquesilktroubleshootingpiecingpinkedtrimpleatedcuffspoufsprickstitchprintedcottons

quilterweightthreadreticule“Frog”reticuleSundaeBestreticuleribbonchokernecklaceRobealaFrancaiseRobeal’Anglaiserolledhemroundgownbackpadunder-bodiceCarolinehatforchoicesforfabricfor

finalfittingfinishingfirstfitting“Frog”reticuleforgettingdressedandwearinggiantfurmuffforlinenturbanwrapformaterialsforover-bodiceunder-petticoatsashforsettingthesleevesandfinishingbodiceshirt-stylechemisetteforskirtsandsleeves

SundaeBestreticuleforVigéeLeBrunturbancapforV-neckedruffledchemisetteforruffledapron

ruffleselbowtreblestackedsleeverunningbackstitch

runningstitch

sacquegown5-loopbowsbodicechoicesforfabricforfirstfittinggettingdressedandwearinghairstylingforhemandtrimlacetuckermaterialsfororganzaandlaceapronorganzaandlacecaporganzaandlacetreblestackedsleeveflounces

petticoatpinkedtrimribbonchokernecklacesecondfitting

sidehoopsskirtpanelssleevesstomacherthirdfittingtroubleshooting

saggyhoopedsilhouettesashserpentinetrimshapedcuffsshiftsshirt-stylechemisetteshortsacqueshoulderstrapsfallingdownsidebackwrinklessidehoopssilhouettessilksilk-covered“brain”hatsilkpetticoatssilktaffetasilkthreadskirtsEnglishgownItaliangownroundgownsacquegowntroubleshooting

sleeveflouncessleeverufflessleeveseighteenth-centuryEnglishgownItaliangownroundgown

sacquegownstackingatelbowtighttroubleshootingtwistedspirallacingstaysstitchesstomacherEnglishgownsacquestraightcuffsstrawhatstrokedgathersSundaeBestreticule

threadweightstoiletrimlackof,onItaliangownspinkedserpentinetroubleshootingturbancapturbanwrapturbanwrappingtechniqueunder-bodiceundergarments1740s1760s1780s1790sEnglishgownpetticoatfalserumpsunder-petticoat

sacquepetticoatsidehoopssilkpetticoatunder-petticoatunfourreau

VigéeLeBrunturbancapV-neckedruffledchemisettewhipgatherwhipstitchwoolworstedwoolwrinkledback-stresslineswrinklesbodicefrontarmpitbodicefrontsidesideback

Biographies

ABBY’SBIOAbby’spassionfordresshistoryandsewingstartedincollegewhilestudyingarthistory,theatreandhistory.Fromthereshepursuedherpassion,studyingDecorativeArtsandDesignHistoryattheUniversityofGlasgow(MLitt2009),andwasabletobeginputtingherpassionintoherworkwhileemployedattheColonialWilliamsburgFoundation.HerfinalthreeyearsworkingfortheFoundationwerespentattheMargaretHunterMillineryShop,servingasanapprenticemilliner/mantuamaker.Thereshelearnedandstudiedeighteenth-centurydressmakingtechniques.AbbynowservesasVice-PresidentofAmericanDuchessandRoyalVintageShoesinReno,NV.

LAUREN’SBIOLaurenStowellstartedbloggingin2009asafunwaytodocumentlearninghistoricalcostuming.Whileshelovesagreatmanyperiodsofdress,fromthesixteenthcenturyallthewaythroughtheearly1960s,Lauren’struelovehasalwaysbeeneighteenth-centuryclothing.In2011,togetherwithherhusband,Chris,Laurenbegandesigningandofferingreproductioneighteenth-centuryshoesforhistoricalcostumersandreenactors,whichquicklygrewintoafull-timebusinessmanufacturingshoes,boots,silkstockings,shoebucklesandotheraccessoriesforallperiodsfromtheRenaissancetotheEdwardianera.Throughoutthistime,Laurencontinuedtosewandblogabouthistoriccostume,experimenting,failing,succeedingandalwayslearningmoreaboutoldclothingandhowitwaswornandlivedin.

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Contents

TitlePageCopyrightNoticeDedicationWhatThisBookIsAllAboutSoYouWanttoSewanEighteenth-CenturyGown,Eh?Patterns:PaperorGriddedorDraped?OhMy!FittingYourMock-UpPiecingIsPeriod,Period

HistoricStitchesandHowtoSewThemRunningStitchBackstitchRunningBackstitchPrickStitchHemStitchwithBastingNarrowHemRolledHemEdgeStitch/EdgeHemStitchAppliqueStitchWhipstitchWhipGatherHerringboneStitchStrokedGathersFellingTheEnglishStitch

Mantua-Maker’sSeam

TheEnglishGown,1740sOurChoicesfortheEnglishGownAnOdetoWool1740sUndies–BasicUnder-Petticoat1740sTheEnglishGownPetticoat1740sTheEnglishGownStomacher1740sTheEnglishGownTheBodiceFirstFittingandAttachingtheSkirtsSleevesandCuffsSecondFittingandFinishingUp

1740sNeckHandkerchief1740sApron1740sCap1740sMitts1740sSimpleStrawHatHowtoGetDressedandWearYourEnglishGown

TheSacqueGown,1760s–1770sOurChoicesfortheSacqueGownANoteonHairStylingforyourSacqueGownOhSweet,SweetSilk1760sUndies—SideHoops1760sTheSacquePetticoat1760sPinkedTrim!1760sTheSacqueStomacher1760s5-LoopBows

1760sTheSacqueGownTheBodiceandFirstFittingSkirtPanelsandSecondFittingSleeves,ThirdFitting,HemandTrim

1760sRibbonChokerNecklace1760sOrganzaandLaceApron1760s–1770sOrganzaandLaceCap1760sOrganzaandLaceTrebleStackedSleeveFlounces1760sLaceTuckerHowtoGetDressedandWearYourSacquewithStyle

TheItalianGown,1770s–1790sOurChoicesfortheItalianGownPrintedCottonDosandDon’ts1780sUndies—TheFalseRump1780sSilkPetticoatOvertheFalseRump1780sTheItalianGownBodiceandFirstFittingFinishingtheBodiceandAttachingtheSkirtsTheSleevesandFinalFitting

Early1780sCap1780sPoufsandBows1780sSilk-Covered“Brain”HatEarly1780sRuffledApron1780sNeckTuckerandElbowRufflesHowtoGetDressedandWearYourItalianGownwithStyle

TheRoundGown,1790sOurChoicesfortheRoundGown

LearningtoLoveLinen1790sUndies—Under-PetticoatandBackPad1790sTheRoundGown

TheUnder-BodiceandFirstFittingSkirtsandSleevesSettingtheSleevesandFinishingtheBodiceOver-BodiceandSkirtFront,ThirdFittingandFinishing

1790sSash1790sV-NeckedRuffledChemisette1790sShirt-StyleChemisette1790s“VigéeLeBrun”TurbanCap1790sLinenTurbanWrap

1790sTurbanWrapping1790sTheCarolineHat1790sTheGiantFurMuff1790sThe“SundaeBest”Reticule1790sThe“Frog”ReticuleGettingDressedandWearingYour1790sEnsemblewithStyle

TroubleshootingAppendix

CitationsWorksCitedExtantGownsCitedBibliographyandFurtherReading

SupplierListAcknowledgmentsIndexAbouttheAuthorsCopyright

Copyright©2017LaurenStowellandAbbyCox

Firstpublishedin2017byPageStreetPublishingCo.27CongressStreet,Suite105Salem,MA01970www.pagestreetpublishing.com

All rights reserved. No part of this bookmay be reproduced or used, in any form or by anymeans,electronicormechanical,withoutpriorpermissioninwritingfromthepublisher.

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LibraryofCongressControlNumber:2017942125

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