The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them...
Transcript of The American Duchess Guide to 18th Century Dressmaking: How to Hand Sew Georgian Gowns and Wear Them...
TheAMERICANDUCHESS
Guideto18thCenturyDressmaking
HowtoHandSewGeorgianGownsandWearThemwithStyle
LaurenStowellFounderofAmericanDuchess
And
AbbyCox
BeginReading
TableofContents
AbouttheAuthors
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Thisbookisdedicatedtoallthenamelessdressmakersandmillinersthroughouthistory.Thankyou.
WhatThisBookIsAllAbout
DearReader,Welcome to thewildworldof eighteenth-centuryhistorical costuming.WithinthesepageswewilltakeyouonadressmakingjourneythroughtheGeorgian era, helping you to learn about, create anddress in fourtypesofgownsandtheiraccessories.OurgoalwithTheAmericanDuchessGuideto18thCenturyDressmakingisto turn our research and experience into an accessible book that willtakeyoufromyourfirstprojecttothatfabulousfinishedensemble.Weencourageyoutouseourinstructionsstitch-for-stitchoras jumping-offpointsforcreatingoutfitsthatrepresentyouruniquestyle.Finally,whenwesetouttowritethisbook,wewantedaboveallelsetoshow how fun and exciting the eighteenth century can be. Though itmightseemintimidating,weknowyoucandoit!Stayfabulousandsewfearlessly!
SoYouWanttoSewanEighteenth-CenturyGown,Eh?
TheAmericanDuchessGuideto18thCenturyDressmakingisdividedintofourbeefychapters,eachrepresentingadifferenttypeofgowncommonintheeighteenthcentury.We’vealsoincludedtheaccompanyingaccessories,ormillinery,neededtocreateafull,accurateensembleforeachgown.Youwillfindcaps,hats,aprons,mitts,kerchiefs,muffsandmore,plusasectionattheendofeachchaptershowinghowtogetfullydressedinallthewonderfulthingsyoujustmade.Ourintentistoillustratehowimportantthecombinationofallofthesepiecesisincreatingthat“steppedoutofaportrait”look.All of the projects in this book are hand sewn with period-correctmethods,whichdiffergreatlyfrommoderntechniques.Scarythoughitmay be, we encourage you to learn and follow the hand-stitchingtechniques. For Georgian gowns, these methods genuinely makeconstruction easier, and the resulting gown and accessories are moreaccurate,attractiveandwell-madethanthosesewnonamachine.Time-consuming?Yes.Worthit?Absolutely.With hand sewing inmind, youwill notice thatweuse thread of twodifferentweights. The choice to use “quilter”weight (#30) thread forour seamsandbodiceconstructionand themorenormalweight (#50)for hems and finer sewing, follows the same decisions made byeighteenth-century dressmakers. Youwill also notice thatwe used silkalmostexclusively,butitisjustasaccuratetousecottonorlinenthreadforyourgownconstruction.We’ve chosen linen for all the gown linings in this book, as it wasubiquitous in its use as lining fabric for women’s gowns during the
eighteenthcentury.Whilewetalkaboutthebenefitsoflinenasatextilehere,usinglinenforyourliningswillhelpprovideastableandauthenticstructureforyourgowns.Finally,wehavenot includedpatternsor instructions formakingyourown stays (corset). Staymaking is a complicated and time-consumingendeavorthatwarrantsevenmorepublicationsthanwhatalreadyexist.Foreverygowninthisbook,wewearadifferentstyleofstay,essentialincreatingthespecificsilhouetteofeachtimeperiod.Thoughwecouldnotincludestaymakinghere,youwillneedtohavestaysbeforemakingyourgown.Justremembertohavefun,beboldandsewwithoutfear!
PATTERNS:PAPERORGRIDDEDORDRAPED?OHMY!Whileweallstrivetobeashistoricallyaccurateaspossible,sometimesmodernityandlifemakeitborderlineimpossible.Forexample,oneofthebiggestissueswitheighteenth-centurydressmakingisfindingthebalancebetweenpaperpatternsanddraping.Mostmodernseamstressesprefertousepaperpatterns,butintheeighteenthcentury,mantuamakerscutandfitthegownsdirectlyontheirclients.Itdoesn’tmeanthatpaperpatternsdidn’texist;tailorsusedpapershapeswhenconstructingmen’sgarments,andmillinersusedthemfordifferentaccessories.Mantuamakersdidnotseemtoworkthisway,though.But that doesn’t always work for us, does it? Sometimes finding thatbalancebetweenaccessibilityandaccuracyisastruggle.Whenwemadethegownsforthisbook,weusedgriddedorscaledpatternsinpublishedbooks or websites for our starting points, noted at the start of eachchapter,andthendrapedtheshapesdirectlyonthemodel.Werealizethatdrapingisanadvanced,complextechniqueinitself,sotohelp find a balance between paper patterns and draping, we haveincluded gridded patterns of the linings used in our gowns. Thisway,youcanseetheshapeofthegownliningyouwillneed,scaleordrapeandadjust themto fityouandbuild thegownuponyour fitted lining.It’simportanttonotethatthesepatternsaredirectcopiesofourlinings,andtheyreflectourdifferentproportions,measurementsandquirks.Youwillneedtomakeadjustmentsforyourownproportions,measurements
andquirks.
FITTINGYOURMOCK-UPWhenstartingwithourliningshapesorapaperpattern,itisessentialtofirstcreateamuslinmock-uptosortoutanymajorfittingissues.Below,wewalkyouthroughhowtofitamock-upusingourgriddedpatterns.Ifyouchoosetouseapreprintedpaperpattern,cutoutthelargersizetofityourmock-up.Thisreferencecanalsobeusedincorrespondencewiththefittingguidesseenthroughoutthebook.
1.Measureyourself(oryourmodel)andcomparethemeasurementstothatoftheliningyouwishtouse.Adjustthelinesaccordinglytobetteraccommodateyourshape.
2.Cutouttheliningshapesinmuslin,adding1to2inches(2.5to5cm)seamallowanceonallsides.Checkgrainlinestomakesuretheycorrespondwiththepattern.
3.Roughlypintheseamstogetherandtrythemock-uponoveralltheunderpinnings.Pinthefrontinplace.
4.Withapencil,markand/oradjustwherethemuslinbodiceistooshortortoolong,iftheshoulderstrapsaretoolooseorthenecklinegapesopen,ifthearmscyesaretoolowandopen,andifthefitistoolooseortootight.RefertotheTroubleshootingGuide(here)forcommonfittingwrinklesandrumples.
5.Smooththebodice,pinchinguptheseamsandrepinningtoadjustthefit.Ifneeded,clipintothewaistedge,pullingdownonthebodicewhilefoldingtheexcessupward,andpin.Smooththeexcesstowardthecenterfrontandcenterbackseams,repinningandmarkingasyougo.
6.Withapencil,sketchalongthewaistfold,thebaseofalltheseamsonbothsidesandtheshoulderstraps.Alsotakethisopportunitytodrawthenecklinejustasyouwantit.
7.Needtoextendorfillinabit?Ifthewaististooshort,shoulderstrapstoobroadoryourarmscyetoolowandwide,pinascrapofmuslinin
andredrawthelines.Besurenottoremovethesepinswhentakingthemuslinmock-upoffthebody.
8.Checktheplacementofthesideseamlineonthebodyandredrawthenewseamlineinthecorrectplaceifneeded.Referenceoriginalgowns,butdon’tbecomeparalyzedbyexactplacement—goforthegeneralarea.Hatchmarkacrossthisnewlinetocreatematchpoints.Sideseamsareplacedfarthertothebackthanmodernplacement.Adeeper,curviersideseamhelpsflatterthewearerandcreatesaprettierline.
9.Unpinthefrontclosureofthemock-upandremovefromthebody.Double-checkthatyournewseamlines,waistedge,armscyeandnecklineareadequatelymarked,thenunpinallthepiecesandlayflat.
10.Youwillseequiteafewscratchylines.TruetheselinesupwitharulerandFrenchcurve.Cutallthepiecesoutontheseamandedgelines.
11.Thisisnowyournewpattern.Ifyoulike,traceitontopaperandaddseamallowance.You’renowreadytocut!
Armscyesintheeighteenthcenturyweremuchhigherthantoday.Thoughitmaybeataduncomfortableduringfittings,itisbettertohaveatoo-tightarmscyethatyouwillcutoutafteryoursleevesaresetthanhavinganarmscyethatistoobigandneedstobepieced.
Jacket(Detail),late18thcentury,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,2010.151
Dress(BackDetail),1775–85,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,2009.300.1340
PIECINGISPERIOD,PERIODIntheeighteenthcentury,fabricwasexpensiveandlaborwascheap.Itwasstandardpracticeforoldgownstobedeconstructedandmadeanew.Economicalconstructionwasessential,anditwasthegoalof
earlymantuamakerstoavoidcuttingthefabricwheneverpossible,favoringtucks,pleatsandfoldstopreservewholewidthsandlengths.Whilethiscuttingstyleevolvesandchangesthroughtheeighteenthcentury,thedesiretobeaseconomicalaspossiblewithfabricdoesnot.Almost every original eighteenth-century gown we have studied inmuseums features piecing, whether it’s from remaking, mistakes orfabric conservation. Piecing can be found in every component of aneighteenth-century gown: sleeves, bodices, skirts and even linings. Theeighteenth-century mantua maker did not view having to piece as amistake,butratherasthebestwaytomakethemostofthetextileandmeet the customer’s needs. In turn, it does not appear that customerscared if their gowns had been pieced; it was just a normal part ofclothingmanufacture.Soifyouenduprunningshortonfabricormakeacuttingmistake—it’sOK!Justpiece inwhat’smissingandappreciatetheairofauthenticitythatpiecinglendstoyourgarment.The first step is tosaveyour fabricscraps.Whenpiecing, try tomatchthegrainlineandanynapordirectionalelements,particularlywithshotsilkswhere thewarp andweft are twodifferent colors. Try to patternmatch ifyoucan,butevenGeorgianmantuamakers sometimesdidn’t.Pieces can be prick stitched, applique stitched or sewn right sidestogether.Throughouttheprojectsinthisbook,wehavehadtopiecepartsofthegowns, whether to extend a sleeve head, lengthen a train, let out abodiceorbuildenoughyardageforapetticoat.Cleverpiecingcantakea“stuck” project to a finished one and adds a twist of Georgianauthenticitythatmakesyourgownnotonlymoreaccuratebutuniquetoyou.
CHAPTERONE
HistoricStitchesandHowtoSewThem
RUNNINGSTITCHWorkingfromrighttoleft,weavetheneedleupanddownthroughalllayers.Whenyou’reusingrunningstitchesforhemmingoraseam,makesurethatthevisiblestitchisveryfine.Bastingstitchesshouldbelongandeven.
BACKSTITCHWorkingrighttoleft,anchortheknotonthewrongsideofthefabric,bringingtheneedleupthroughalllayers.Travelacoupleofthreadstotherightofwhereyourneedlecamethrough,pushtheneedlethroughallthelayers,andbringitbackupequidistantfromthefirstpuncture.Bringtheneedletothatsamethreadentrypoint,pushingdownthroughalllayers,travelingequidistanttotheleft,bringtheneedleupthrough
andrepeat.Thisisthestrongeststitch,idealforseams.
RUNNINGBACKSTITCHUsingtheinstructionsabove,combinetherunningandbackstitch.Stitchtwoorthreerunningstitchesandthenabackstitchforstrength.Thisstitchiscommonlyusedinskirtandpetticoatseams.
PRICKSTITCHWorkingfromrighttoleft,anchortheknotonthewrongsideofthefabric,andcomestraightupthroughalllayers.Bringyourneedledown1or2threadstotheright,makingsuretheneedlegoesthroughallthelayers.Bringtheneedleupequidistantfromhowfaryouspacedthestitchesfromtheseamedge.Forexample,ifyou’resewing¼inch(6mm)infromthefoldededge,spaceyourstitches¼inch(6mm)apart.Thiscarefulandvisiblespacedbackstitchisusedmostoftenonsideseams.
HEMSTITCHWITHBASTINGWorkinglefttoright,turnuphalfoftheseamallowanceontheedgeofyourfabricandbastewithlongrunningstitches.Turnuptheremainingseamallowanceagaintoencasetherawedge.Tohemstitch,buryyourknotbetweenthefoldandfabric,bringingtheneedleouttowardyou.Travelalittlebittotheleftandpasstheneedlethroughtheouterfabric,bringingitbackinthroughthefoldedlayers.Theresultingstitchisvisibleontheoutsideofthegarment,andshouldbesmallandfine.
NARROWHEMWorkinglefttoright,turnupanarrowseamallowance(⅛to¼inch[3to6mm])ontheedgeofyourfabricandbastewithlongrunningstitches.Thenfoldthisedgeupagaininhalfsothefinishedhemisbetween⅛and⅛inch(1to3mm)wide.Hemstitchfromrighttoleftinthesametechniqueexplainedabove.
ROLLEDHEMKeepingtensionwithyourdominanthand,rolltherawedgebackand
forthbetweenyourfingersuntiltheedgetightlyrollsoveritselfatleasttwice.Holdtherollededgebetweenyourfingerstokeepitinplaceasyouhemstitchitalltogether.Itwilltakeabitoftimebeforeitstartstolooksmallandeven.Somethinglickingyourfingerscanhelpmakethisprocesseasier.
EDGESTITCH/EDGEHEMSTITCHThisstitchiscommonlyusedtojointhefashionfabricandthelining.Beforestitching,turnintheseamallowancesonbothpiecesandbaste.Withthetwopiecesplacedwrongsidestogether,offsetthefashionfabrictobeslightlyabovetheliningfabricandpinintoplace.Withtheliningsidefacingyou,buryyourknotbetweenthetwolayerswiththeneedlecomingouttowardyouthroughthelining.Travelasmallamounttotheleftandmakeasmallstitchcatchingalllayers,andbringtheneedlebacktowardyou.Repeat.Thisstitchisvisibleontheoutsideandshouldbesmall.
APPLIQUESTITCHThisisperformedjustlikethehemstitchexceptthatthetravelandcatchesareinreverse.Thesmallstitchistheoneyousee,andyouwilltravelontheunderside.Thisisusedwhenyou’resewingfromtherightsideofthefabric.
WHIPSTITCHThisstitchiscommonlyusedoveranedge,eitherraworfinished.Placethetwopiecesoffabricrightsidestogetherandpin.Workingrighttoleft,workwiththeneedlepointingtowardyou,passingthroughalllayers.Bringtheneedlebackaroundtothefarlayer,passingthroughthelayerswiththeneedlefacingyou.Repeat.
WHIPGATHERWorkingrighttoleft,whipovertheedgeofthefabricadetermineddistance.Thenpullthethreadgatheringupthefabrictothedesiredlength,andknotthethread(butdonotcut)beforemovingontothenextsection.
HERRINGBONESTITCHFirst,youwillworkfromlefttoright.Passyourneedlethroughthefabricacoupleofthreadstowardtheleft.Bringtheneedleupandthenangleitdownandtotheright.Bringtheneedledownandtravelacoupleofthreadstotheleft,bringingtheneedlebackup.Repeat.
STROKEDGATHERSThistechniqueisusedforyourapronsand1790sensemble.Itconsistsofthreeevenlyspacedandstitchedrunningstitchesthatarethengathereduptofitthedesiredspace.Thegathersarethencarefullystitchedwithahemorwhipstitch,makingsurethatyoucatcheverybumpinthegathers.
FELLINGThistechniquecleanlyjoinstwopiecesoffabricinanencasedseam.Withrightsidestogether,offsetoneedgeby¼inch(6mm)andrunningstitchtojoin.Opentheseamoutflatwiththeseamallowancefacingup.Foldupthelongeredgeoftheseamallowanceovertheshorterrawedgeby¼inch(6mm),fingerpress,thenfoldoveragainalongtheseamline.Runningstitchorhemstitchthefolded,cleanedgedown,thenpresstheseamflat.
THEENGLISHSTITCHThisstitch/seamingtechniqueisprobablyoneoftheweirdestthingsyouwillcomeacrossinthisbook.However,itisextremelycommonandusefulineighteenth-centurydressmaking,perfectforseamingtogethertheliningandfashionfabricofbodiceseamsinonestitchinsteadoftwo.Thoughthenameofthisstitchhaspreviouslybeenshroudedinmystery,PernillaRasmussenfoundevidenceofitbeingknownasthe“EnglishStitch”inthe1824tailoringbookbyF.Heyder.1Whiletherearemanyplacesthisseamingtechniquecouldbeuseful,itismostrepresentedinoriginalbodicesofItaliangowns,butalsosometimesmakesanappearanceinsacquesandotherextantbodicestoo.Workingrighttoleft,youwillhavethetwopiecesyouareseamingwithall theiredgesbasted intoplace facing right side to right side.Makeaquickstitchontheliningfabricclosesttoyourperson,buryingtheknotbetween the fashion fabric and the lining fabric. Thenpass theneedlethroughthefashionfabricsandliningtotheotherside.Bringtheneedleupandpointitbackatyou,passingthroughbothfashionfabricsandtheliningon thesideclosest toyou(see illustration1).Repeat.Keepyourstitchesverysmalland tighthere,about12stitchesper inch(2.5cm).Youshouldhaveaneat,finishedseamwhenopenedflat(seeillustration2).
MANTUAMAKER’SSEAMThisseamingtechniqueisnotasscaryasyoumightthink.Infact,it’sdeceptivelyeasy.It’sknownasamantuamaker’sseamormantuamaker’shemming,anditdominateswomen’sclothinginthistimeperiodandevenintothenineteenthcentury.AccordingtoTheWorkwoman’s
Guidefrom1838,
“Thisisoftenusedinsteadofsewing,forbagsandsleevesthathavenolinings,orskirtsofpetticoats&c.,andtheworkispreparedasfollows.Laytherawedgesofonepiecealittlebelowthatoftheother,thenturntheupperedgeoverthelower,twice,asinhemming,andfellitsecurelydown.”2
Themantuamaker’sseamisaningenious,efficientwaytoconnectandencase raw edges on skirt panels in gowns, andwe evenuse it in our1790sreticules.ThoughsimilartoamodernFrenchseamorfelledseam,themantuamaker’sseamisfast,easyandperiodcorrect.Towork amantuamaker’s seam, startwith two layers of fabric, rightsidetorightside.Offsetthebottomfabricby⅛to¼inch(3to6mm),dependingonhowwideyouneedthisseamtobe.Foldthebottomfabricupandoverthetopfabriconceandbasteintoplacesewingfromrighttoleft.Next,foldthebasteedgeuponcemoreandhemstitchthroughalllayers.When you’re finished, you will open up this seam and have acleanfinishontheoutsideandanencasedrawedgeontheinterior.
CHAPTERTWO
TheEnglishGown,1740s
BASEDONDIAGRAMXIVFROMCUTOFWOMEN’SCLOTHINGBYNORAHWAUGH1
Thefirstgowninourbookisrootedinoneofthemostfundamentalmomentsinfashionandwomen’shistory.Thisgown,whatwewillrefertoasthe“Englishgown,”isbasedonthegroundbreakingmantua,ormanteaux,gown.Themantuaallowedwomenthechancetostepoutoftheshadowofmaletailorsandcreatetheirowntrade,usheringinaneweraoffashionanddressmakingwith
thenewcentury.2
Amoreinformalstyleofgownwornbywomenofallsocialclasses,themantuacameintofashionduringthelastquarteroftheseventeenthcenturyanddevelopedovertimeintowhatwascalledthe“night-gown,”“gown”and/or“mantua.”WhilethisgownmayhavebeencalledRobeal’AnglaiseinFrench,thistermisuncommonineighteenth-centuryEnglishandAmericansources.Forthesakeofclarity,wewillsimplycallittheEnglishgown.
Thegownwere-createinthischapterisrepresentativeoftheperiodfrom1740to1750.Theclose-fittingpleatedback,separatestomacherfront,robingscut-in-oneandlargefullsleevesareallstylehallmarksofthisdecade.Overtime,thistypeofgownchanges,exhibitingsmallerbackpleats,aclosedfrontandnarrowersleeves,beforefallingoutoffashioninthe1780s.
ARake’sProgress,Plate4,WilliamHogarth,June25,1735,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,32.35(31)
Robeàl’Anglaise(Back),1770–75,BrooklynMuseumCostumeCollectionatTheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2009.300.648
OURCHOICESFORTHEENGLISHGOWNTo achieve the appropriate silhouette of the 1740s, the correctundergarmentsareessential.Shiftshadlargefullsleevestofilloutanddecorate the gown sleeves. Stays were often fully boned, straight andlonginthetorso.Thesepiecesmustcomefirst—weknow,youwanttojumprightintomakingthedress,butdon’tskipyourunderpinnings!Whilewedonotprovideinstructionsforshiftsorstaysinthisbook,youwill find in this chapter the instructions for making a basic under-petticoat,astandardunderpinningthatmaybeusedforallofyourothergownprojectsbeforethe1790s.It’sagoodstarterprojectandwillserveyouwell.For thisproject,we’vechosen toportrayaworkingwoman’sensembleand so have styled our gownwithout a hoop or false rump.However,thisverysamedesignmadeinsilk,fittedoverhoops(seehereforpockethoops),wouldcreateafashionablearistocraticlook.Finally, this gown ismade from amedium-weight blueworstedwool.While wool is a great fiber for women’s gowns, all the other historicfibersareopen toyou: learnabout silk (here), linen (here)andcotton(here).
UNFOURREAU?UNFOR-NO!Ifyou’vebeenstudyingeighteenth-centurydress,you’veundoubtedlyseentheterm“enfourreau”usedtodescribewhatwearecallingtheEnglishgown.We’renotsurewheretheusageofthistermtodescribethepleatscutinonewiththeskirtcamefrom,butitdoesn’tappeartocomefromtheeighteenthcentury.Whenlookingatprimarysources,theterm“unfourreau”unequivocallymeans“afrock”forachild.3,4Sofarinourresearch,onlyoneeighteenth-centurydictionarytranslates“unfour[r]eau”as“afrockforawomanorchild”ratherthanexclusivelyforachild.5WhileyoumightfindoriginalFrenchfashionplatesoccasionallylabelwomen’sandgirls’dresses“enfourreau,”orjust“fourreau,”
thedesignofthesegownsasrelatestobackpleatingisinconclusive.However,wedoknowfromsurvivingexamplesandimagesthatchildren’sfrockswerebackfasteningintheeighteenthcentury.Sowhileassociating“fourreau”withthebackiscorrect,primarysourceslendmoreevidencetowarditbeingaback-fastening-stylegownpredominantlywornbychildrenthatmayhavealsoinfluencedwomen’sdress.
ANODETOWOOLWool,commonlycalled“stuff” in theeighteenthcentury,wasarguablythemostcommonfibertypewornbywomenbelowacertainsocialclassin the eighteenth century.6 While spun and woven wools, such asworsteds,wereextremelycommon, therewasahugevarietyofwovenwools and wool blends used for clothing: glazed calamanco, camlet,bombazine,baize,cassimere, linsey-woolseyandmore.7Hereareafewgreatreasonswhywestronglyrecommendadress-weightworstedwoolfortheEnglish,Italianandeventhe1790sgowns:
1.Woolisn’tactuallythathot…unlessitneedstobe.Woolnaturallyreactstotheenvironmenttoregulateyourbodytemperature.Woolwillkeepadrylayerclosetotheskinwhilestillbeingabletowithstandcold,moistclimates,andwhenit’shot,itwillwickawayyourperspiration.8
2.Sincewoolissogoodatwickingawaymoisture,itmakesforanantimicrobial,antibacterialfabric.It’shardtomakeitstinkyandgross.9
3.Woolisamazingtoworkwith.Itdoesn’twrinkleorshowfittingfaultsinthesamewaythatsilk,linenorcottondoes.It’saveryforgivingfabrictoworkwith,resultinginabetter-lookinggownwithouttheheartacheoffightingwithaslipperysilkorwigglylinen.
4.Woolishard-wearinganddurable.Thisgownwilllastyoualongtime,andyou’llgetyourmoney’sworth.
5.Wooldoesn’tcombustintoflame—itsmolders.Ifyouareworking
nearanopenfire,woolisyoursafesttextilechoice.
6.Awoolgowniseasytodressupordressdownwithmillinery.Crispwhiteaccessoriesincottonorsilkwillgofarinmakinga“plainol’woolgown”lookveryfashionable.Alternatively,thesamewoolgownpairedwithacheckedapronandprintedkerchiefdoeswellforcommonimpressionsanddirtywork.
7.Wearingwoolcouldbeverypatriotic.WoolfabricswereacornerstoneofEnglishmanufacturing,anditwasimperativetosupportone’shomeindustry.10
Workingwithwoolisn’twithoutchallenges,butitdoescreateamazingtextilesthataregreattosewwith.Weespeciallyrecommendwooltobeginninghistoricalcostumersasanexcellentchoiceforthatfirstgown.
1740sUndiesBasicUnder-Petticoat
This petticoat is an example of the most basic and commonunderpinning, second only to the shift. This under-petticoat can andshouldbewornwiththeEnglishGown(here),Sacque(here)andItalianGown(here).Makingitoutofamatelassécottonwillhelpgiveitextrabody and loftinesswithout theweight. You can alsomake it out of asturdy linen, cotton, or wool flannel. This petticoat should be on the
shorter side; the hem should be somewhere between below your kneeandlowercalf.Under-petticoatsdon’thavetobeasfullasouterpetticoats.Thefullnessof thepetticoatdependsonyoursize.Youwantenoughroomforyourlegstomovefreely.Agoodruleofthumbistoaimforabout100inches(2.5meters).For the under-petticoat, we use just one seam to close the skirt.Dependingonyourfabricwidth,youmayneedtojoinpanelstogethertoachieve the needed hem circumference. Also assess the seamingtechnique needed according to your fabric edges. If they are selvageedges, carry on with assembly steps 4 through 6; if they are raw cutedges,youwillwanttousethemantuamaker’sseam(here).
MATERIALS•2–3yards(2–3m)ofcottonmatelassé,sturdylinenorwoolflannel•Heavy-weightsewingthread(35/2linenor#30silk)•1.5–2yards(1.5–2m)¾–1”(1.9–2.5cm)-widelinenorcottontape
ASSEMBLY1.Useasofttapemeasureatyournaturalwaistpoint(usuallyaroundyourbellybutton,justbelowyourribs)andnotethenumber.Measuredowntheapproximatehemlength(waisttosomewherebelowyourkneeandabovelowercalf).
2.Cutoutthefabric,measuringthelengthofthewaisttocalfonthestraightofthegrainandcuttingselvagetoselvage.
3.Pinonepetticoatseamrightsidestogether,leaving10inches(25.5cm)freeatthetopfortheopening.Stitchtheseamusingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseam(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])forrawcutedges(here).
4.Baste,thenhemtheedgesoftheopening(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
5.Withthepetticoatopenedoutflat,hemat½-inch(1.2-cm)wide(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
6.Findthecenterofthefrontpanelandmark.
7.Timetopleat.Onthefront,makeonelargeboxpleatatthecenterfront,about3to6inches(7to15cm)wideandbetween1to3inches(2.5to7.6cm)deep.Thenknifepleateachsideofthefrontpetticoatpaneltowardtheback,checkingthecircumferenceagainstyourwaistmeasurement.Pleatingwasnotanexactscienceintheeighteenthcentury,anditdoesn’tneedtobetoday.Justpleattofitwith1-to2-inch(2.5-to5-cm)-widepleatsonthevisibleside;theycanbeasdeepasneededontheunderside.Don’tworryiftheyarenotperfect.
8.Backstitchthepleatsdownabout¼to½inch(6mmto1cm)fromtheedge,stitchingthroughalllayerstosecure(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
9.Findthecenterpointofyourwaisttape,pintothecenterfrontofyourpetticoat.Thenworkingfromthecenterfrontaroundtotheback,pinthewaisttapehalfwayovertherawedgeofthepetticoat,leavingtheotherhalftofoldoverandbindtheedge.
10.Finelyhemstitchthewaisttapedownontherightsideofthefabric(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
11.Foldthewaisttapeovertherawedgeandfinelyhemstitchitintoplace.
12.Oncebothsidesareattached,whipthetapetogetheratbothendstokeepitsecure.
Done!
1740sTheEnglishGownPetticoat
Thispetticoatismadetogowiththe1740sEnglishgown.Constructedinatypicaleighteenth-centuryway,thepetticoatisopenatbothsidestoallowthewearertoreachherpocketsandistiedatthefrontandback.Fortheportrayalofcommondressinthisperiod,neitherthepetticoatwaistnorhemisadjustedoveranyadditionalunderpinningssuchasafalserumporhoop.Thelengthofapetticoatdependsonwhatis
fashionablefortheperiodandwhatthewomanwillbedoing.Forexample,ifthewomanwillbedoingmorephysicallabor,shewouldwantherpetticoathemtobeabitabovetheankletopreventtripping.Finally,plainpetticoatslikethiswerewornthroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury,soyoucanwearthissamepetticoatwithalatergownaslongasthegowndoesn’tneedtobewornoverahooporfalserump.
MATERIALS•2–3yards(2–3m)offabric,enoughtohaveacircumferenceof108–120inches(2.7–3m)(Note:Thisexampleuses60”(1.5-m)-widefabricwithapanelforthefrontandonefortheback.Ifyouareusingnarrowerfabric,youmightneedtoaddextrapanelstoyourpetticoat.)
•Silkthread(#30forconstructionand#50forhemming)•2.5–4yards(2.5–4m)of1”(2.5-cm)-widelinenorcottontape
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutyourpetticoataccordingtoyourdesiredlengthandfullness.For60-inch(1.5-m)-widefabric,twopanelsarerequired—frontandback—fora120-inch(3-m)hem.
2.Withrightsidestogether,selvage-to-selvage,pinonesideseam.Leaveopen10inches(25.5cm)fromthetopforthepocketslit.
3.Forthepocketslit,turnbacktheedgesoftheopeningandhemstitch.Forselvageedges,onlyturningbackoncewillsuffice;forrawedges,turndoubletoenclose.Press.
4.Startingfromthehem,sewthesideseamwitharunningbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Stopatthebottomofthepocketslit.Pressopentheseam.
5.Eachsideofthepetticoatwillbepleatedtohalfthewaistmeasurement.Forexample,thewaistbandofourpetticoatwillbepleatedtofita28-inch(71-cm)waist.Therefore,thefrontandbackeachneedtobepleatedto14inches(35cm),respectively.Thesizeanddepthoftheknifepleatswillbeinpartdeterminedbyyoursizeandtheamountoffabricinthepetticoat.Thereisnoneedforthepleatstobeeven—feelyourwaythrough,strivingforauniformlookontheexterior,butnotworryingabouttheinteriormeasurementsofeachpleat.Checkagainstyourmeasuringtaperegularlyandadjustthepleatsasneeded.Thismighttakeacoupleoftries,andthat’sOK.You’llgetthere.
6.Foldthefrontpanelofthepetticoatinhalftofindthecenterfront.Markwithapin.
7.Starting3inches(7cm)fromthecentermark,begintoknifepleatinthedirectionofthesideseams.Thiswillformaboxpleatatthecenterfrontthatis6inches(15cm)wide.
8.Backstitchthepleatsinplace,closetotheedge(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
9.Foldthebackpanelofthepetticoatinhalftofindthecenterback.Markwithapin.
10.Begintopleattowardthecenterback,forminganinvertedboxpleat.Continuetoknifepleatinthedirectionofthecenterback.
11.Backstitchthepleatsinplace,closetotheedge.12.Withrightsidestogether,laythefrontandbackpanelstogetherattheremainingsideseam.Pin,leavingopen10inches(25.5cm)fromthetopforthepocketslit.
13.Forthepocketslit,turnbacktheedgesoftheopeningandhemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Forselvageedges,onlyturningbackoncewillsuffice;forrawedges,turndoubletoenclose.Press.
14.Startingfromthehem,sewthesideseamwitharunningbackstitch.Stopatthebottomofthepocketslit(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Pressopentheseam.
15.Cuttwolengthsoflinentapeapproximatelydoubleyourtotalwaistcircumference.Foldeachtapeinhalftomarkthecenterpoints.Matchthesecenterpointstothecenterpointsofeachpetticoatpanel.Pinalongthewaistedgewiththetape½inch(1.2cm)deep,leaving½inch(1.2cm)freetofoldovertotheinsidelater.Appliquestitchtheedgeofthetapeinplace,makingsuretocatchallthelayers(12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
16.Foldthetapetotheinside,pin,andhemstitchinplace.Securewithseveralstrongstitchesateachsideseam.Theremainingtapeformstheties.
17.Hemthepetticoateither¼inchor½inchwide(8to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
Done!
1740sTheEnglishGownStomacher
WeknowyouwanttojumprightintomakingyourEnglishGown(here),but just as with the petticoat, you need one more piece first: thestomacher.Inthe1740s,stomacherscouldbesimpleorverydecorativeforhigher-classensembles.Aplainself-fabricorhand-embroideredlinendesignworksatreatforacommonwoman’sgown,whilemetalliclace,embroideryorberibbonedstomachersareenvogue for the fashionablelady.
MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)offabric•½yard(0.5m)ofstiffenedlinenbuckram•Silkthread#30
ASSEMBLY1.Measurethelengthandwidthneededforthestomacher,orseepatternhere.Thelengthshouldbefromthetopedgeofthestaystojustbelowthe“points”ofthebodicefrontedges.Thewidthshouldbeacrossthebustandacrossthewaistwithadditionalwidthaddedforthegownfrontedgestooverlap.Add½to¾inch(1.2to2cm)seamallowance.
2.Cutonelayeroffashionfabric,onelayeroflinenandonelayeroflinenbuckram.Tomakelinenbuckram,liberallypaintmedium-weightlinenwithgumtragacanthandallowtodryinthesun.You’llwanttodothisoutside—gumtragacanthstinks.
3.Cutofftheseamallowanceofthelinenandlinenbuckrampiecesand
pinorbastebothlayerstogether.
4.Turnuphalfoftheseamallowanceonthefashionfabricandbaste.
5.Centerthelinenpiecesonthefashionfabricwithevenseamallowanceonalledges.Pintohold.
6.Workthesidesandbottomcurveofthestomacherfirst.Foldintheremainingseamallowance,coveringtherawedgeofthelinenbuckram.Atthebottomcurve,withalooserunningstitch,gatherandeasethefashionfabricaroundthebottom.Pinasyougo,thenhemstitchinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),catchingjustthelinenbuckram.
7.Foldoverthetopedgeandhemstitchinplace.Besuretoworkthestomacherabsolutelyflat,beingcarefulnottopullorcreatetensioninthefashionfabricinanyway.
8.Optional:Stitchasmalltabofcottonorlinentapetothesidesofthestomacheratthetop.Thishelpswithpinningthestomachertothestayswhendressing.
1740sTheEnglishGown
TobegintheEnglishgown,wewilldemonstratehowtopattern,cutandassemble robings that are all-in-one with the body. This techniqueproducesthedoublerobingsseenin1740sportraitsandmakesuseofahidden dart to manipulate the straight-cut fabric over the bust andshoulder.Anotheruniquedesigninthefirsthalfoftheeighteenthcenturywasthe
broad and roomy sleeve. These sleeveswere cut straightwith a singleseamanddecoratedwithpleatedcuffs,wingedcuffsorruffledflounces.Sleevesbecomenarrowerlateronintheeighteenthcentury,sokeepthisinmindifyouwanttomakeyourgowntoalaterfashion.Finally,earlyeighteenth-centurycuffscouldbelargeorsmall,wingedoropen.Withtheverybroadsleevesonourworkingwoman’sgown,we’vechosen a large open cuff only slightly bigger than the sleeve itself.Wingedcuffsareconstructedexactlythesamewaybutwiththeadditionofatackingstitchatthebackoftheelbowtoclosetheloopandcreatethewing.
MATERIALS•4–6yards(4–6m)ofgownfabric•2–2.5yards(2–2.5m)unbleachedlinen•Silkthread(#30forgathersandtopstitchingand#50forhemming)
THEBODICEWewillbegintheEnglishgownbyconstructingthepleatedfrontandbackpiecesseparately,inpreparationforlaterjoiningthetwotogether.Thepleatingonthisgownisnoeasything,buttheresultsarebeautifulandcomewithasenseofaccomplishment.
1.Determinetheapproximatelengthoftherobingsbymeasuringfromroughlytheshoulderseamonyourbackoverthebustandjustpastthewaist.Addseamallowanceatbothends.
2.Placethebodicefrontliningatopyourfashionfabricand4to6inches(10to15cm)fromthestraightedge.
3.Atthebottomofyourrobings,drawaperpendicularlinefromthestraightfrontedgetoaboutthewidthofyourtoppleatoncepleated.
4.Nowtracethewaistcurveofthebodiceliningandextendthelinedownwardtowardthecenterfrontedge,meetingthestraightlinefromthepreviousstep.AFrenchcurvewillhelpplacethisline.
5.Basteuptheseamallowancealongthecurvedwaistedgefromwheretheskirtswillattach,aroundthesquaredbottomandthefrontedgeoftherobings.
6.Turnupandnarrowhemthecurvedwaistedgefromwheretheskirtswillattach,aroundthesquaredbottom,andthefrontedgeoftherobingsjusttowherethefrontedgewillmeetthecenterpointofthebodicelining.
7.Nowpleattherobings,keepingthelinesonthestraight.Thetoppleatdoesnotneedtobedeep,butthesecond/bottompleatmustbethefullwidth,allowingyoutoreachthefrontedgeofthebodicebeneath.Thisisvitaltopinningthegownwhendressing.
8.Pinandpressthepleatsinplace.Donotstitch.
9.Withthepleatedrobingsfoldedoutflatawayfromthebodice,prickstitchtherobingstogetheralongbothedgesofthetoppleat.Spaceyourstitches¼inch(6mm)apartand¼inch(6mm)fromtheedge.Thisstitchconnectsthetoppleattotheonebelowitonly—donotstitchthepleatstothebodice!
10.Turnuptheseamallowanceontheneckedge,frontedgeandwaistedgeofthebodiceliningandbaste.
11.Placetheliningontothebodiceouterfabric,liningupthefrontedgeoftheliningbelowthebustpointwiththefoldlineoftherobingsandabout¼inch(6mm)back.Useaspacedprickstitchalongthebodiceliningedge,throughalllayers,securingthebodiceliningandouterfabrictogetherandleaving2to3inches(5to8cm)
unhemmedattheshoulder.Therobingsarenowheldinplaceontheoutside,buttheundersideofthepleatsisstillaccessible.
12.Laythebodicefrontpieceoutflatandsmooththeouterfabrictothelining.Pintherawedgesofthebodicetogetheratthesideseamandarmscye.Youwillseethatyouhaveexcessfabricintheshoulderarea.
13.Pinchupthe“wedge”ofexcessfabricintheshoulderarea,folding,fingerpressingandpinningasneededtowardthefrontedgeandtaperingdowntoapoint.Ifthewedgeistoodeep,youcancutsomeoftheexcessfabrictomakeiteasierandlessbulky.Theplacementofthisdartisvariablebutshouldbecoveredbytherobings.
14.Appliquestitchthedartseamfromshoulderdowntothepointonthefashionfabriconly(10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotstitchittothelining.
15.Whileoptional,theinteriorlacingstripsonstomacher-frontgownsassistgreatlyinclosingthegownwithmorethanjustpins.Thislacingkeepsthebackwell-fittedwhilealsoallowingeaseofdressing.Tocreateyourlacingstrips,measurefromjustbelowyourbusttojustaboveyourwaist.Addseamallowance.Cutastripoflinenthislengthandabout4inches(10cm)wide.
16.Foldinandbastealltherawedgesoneachstrip,thenfoldeachlacingstripinhalflengthwiseandpress.
17.Marktheholesforspirallacingonbothpiecesabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Makesureyouhavearightandleftside.
18.Piercetheholewithyourawl.Withheavylinenthread,wellwaxedanddoubled,whipstitchtherawedgeofthehole,workingaroundandpullingthethreadsnugtocreateyoureyelets.Eyeletsweren’tperfectintheeighteenthcenturyandyoursdon’thavetobeeither.Thesewnthreadsaremerelytheretokeeptheholeopen,sodon’tworryifthey’renotdenselysewn.
19.Whenyou’vestitchedaroundtheeyelet,pokethroughtheholewiththeawloncemoretoreopentheeyelet.
20.Withthelacingstripscomplete,pinthemtothebodicefrontliningandhemstitchinplace,carefultocatchonlytheliningfabric.Theplacementofthelacingstripsneedstobefarenoughapartwhenlacedsecurelytoallowtheedgesofthestomachertotuckinbetweenthelacingstripsandthebodicefrontedges.
21.Nowwewillpleatthebackofthegownbodice.Determinethefulllengthofthebackofyourgownbymeasuringfromthenapeofthenecktotheflooroveryourunderpinningsandwithyourpropershoeson.Cutthislengthoffabricthefullwidthfromselvagetoselvage.Thisbeginsthebackofyourgown.
22.Cutthelinenbodiceliningpiecesaccordingtoyourpattern.23.Backstitchthecenterbackseamoftheliningwithyourseamallowance(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Pressopentheseam.
24.Withthebackpieceofthegownfabricandyourliningbothfoldedlengthwise,placetheliningatopthegownfabric,matchingthetopedgeonthestraight.Theliningwillsitatanangletothefoldofthegownfabric.Pin.
25.Tohelpmanagethevolumeoffabric,wewillcutawaysomeoftheexcessbeforepleatingtheback.Todothis,measureacrossthebackoftheliningattheneckline,doubleitandadd2inches(5cm)forsafety’ssake.Markwithapin,thenmeasurestraightdownandmarkthisline.
26.Atthecenterbackwaistedgeofthelining,measuredown2inches(5cm)andmarkwithapin.Measurestraightoutacrossthefabrictomeettheverticallineandmark.Don’tcutityet!
27.Tracetheangleoftheliningcenterbackseam,thenmeasureup2inches(5cm)fromthebottomandmarkthattoo.
28.Nowcutouttheexcessfabricrectanglemeasuredoutearlier.Measuretwice,cutonce!Ifyou’reanywherenearthelining,stopandtriplecheckeverything.Weused60-inch(1.5-m)-widefabricforthisgown.Ifyouhavenarrowerfabric,youmightnotneedtocutanythingaway,butyoumayneedtoaddextrapanelsintheskirtlateron.
29.Nowit’stimetogetstitching.Backstitchthegownfabricalongtheangledcenterbackseamlinepreviouslymarked(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
30.Here’sthesecretsauce:justabovethesmallmark2inches(5cm)abovethewaistedgeofthecenterbackseam(rememberthatmark?),makeanangledcut,stoppingaboutaninch(2.5cm)abovethemark.
31.Cutopenthebackseamalongthefolduntilyoumeettheangledcut.32.Pressopenthebackseam.Youcannowseehowtheangledcutplaysnicewiththeopenseam.Ontheoutside,atuckisformed—thebeginningofyourbackpleats.
33.Next,placetheliningwrongsidestogetheroverthegownfabric,matchingthetopneckedgesandthecenterbackseams.Prickstitch“intheditch”throughbothlayersofthecenterbackseams,matchingtheseamlinesonbothsides(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
34.Lastly,markthebottomofthecenterseam2inches(5cm)upfromthebottomoftheliningrawedge.Readytopleat?Webetyouare.Let’sdoit.
35.PleatingthebackofanEnglishgownisafiddlybusiness.Stickwithit,though,andyourresultswillbestunning!Determinethewidthandstyleofyourpleatsforyourtimeperiodandaestheticlook—earliergownstendtohavewiderbackpleatswhilelatergownstendtohavenarrowerbackpleats.
36.Startthepleatsatthetop,pinchingupseveralinchesoffabrictogetthedepthandwidthyouwant.Workthefirstpleatfromthecenterbackseam,pinningasyougo.
37.Workthesecondpleatfromthecenterback.Thissecondpleatcanbeanydistancefromthefirst—werecommend1to1.5inches(2.5to4cm)orso.Workthispleatfromnecktowaist,pinningasyougo.Nope,we’renotgoingtostitchitdownyet.
38.Timetoworkthepleatsontheotherside.Forthetoppleats,togetthosetwosidesofthepleatseven,pinchupandfoldoverthecenterbackseam,matchingtheoppositepleat.Foldbackintopositionandpininplace.Measureasneededtocheckyourwork.Pin,pin,adjust,pin!
39.Now,weknowyoureallywanttostitchthisdown,butbeforeyoudo,makeonelastcheckonthebody.Holdupthebackpieceorpinitinplaceonthemodel.Checktheproportion,placementofthewaistseamandoveralleffect.Adjustasnecessary.
40.Prickstitchthepleatstothelining,about¼inch(6mm)apartand¼inch(6mm)fromtheedge.About2inches(5cm)fromthebottomwaistedgeofthelining,continuetostitchthepleatsthroughthegownfabric,butnotthelining.Endyourstitchingabout½inch(1.25cm)belowtheliningwaistedge.
41.Ifyouhavealotofexcessfabriconthesideseamsofthebackpanel,youcancutthisaway.Donotcutalongthebottomwaistedgeyet—thatcomeslater!—justcutstraightoutatarightangle,meetingupwiththepreviousstraightcut.
FIRSTFITTINGANDATTACHINGTHESKIRTSNext,wewillfitthebodiceonthebodytoachievethatperfect,uniquefit.WiththeEnglishgown,thefirstfittingcanbeunwieldy,withthe
backskirthangingfromthestitchedbodicebackpleats.Becarefulwiththeskirtinthisstep—youdon’twanttotearorstretchit.
1.First,followingtheshapeofthelining,cutthefashionfabricwithseamallowanceatthesameangleonbothsides.Cutbeneaththebackpleatsjustasmidge.Beverycarefulwithhowyouhandlethegownatthispointbecausethereisalotofstressonthefabricnowandyoudon’twanttoaccidentallytearanything.
2.Withthemodelinallofherunderpinnings,pinthebackofthegowntothestays,liningupthecenterbackseamwiththecenterbackofthemodelandsecurelypininplace.
3.Pinthestomachertothestays,liningupthecenterfrontofthestomacherwiththecenterfrontofthemodel.
4.Roughlypinthebodicefrontsonthemodel,notingtheangleofthebodiceandwherethewaistissitting.Youdonotwantyourwaisttobetooshort!Itcanhelptopinthewaisttothepetticoatsoitdoesn’trideupinthefittingprocess.
5.Securelypinthebodicetothestomacherontheedgeoforbeneaththerobings,makingsureeachsideiseven.
6.Roughlypintheshoulderstrapliningtothebackpiece.Thisisnotyourfinalshoulderstrapfitting.Thisisjusttohelpkeepthebodiceinplace.
7.Beginfittingthesidebackseamsbypullingandpinchingthelinenliningsofthebackandfrontpiecestogetherandpinning.Keeptheliningtautandsmoothandevenonbothsides.Don’ttrimanythingawayunlessitisabsolutelyvital,includingthearmscyes—thesewillbetrimmedawaylater.
8.Ifthewaististoolow,youwillseewrinklesthere.Removeanybastingandfoldtheseamallowanceuporslicetheteeniesttiniestcutsintotheseamallowancetoreleasethewrinkles.
9.Continuallycheckthroughoutthefittingthatnothinghasgonewonky.It’sagoodruleofthumbtocheckyourcenterfront,centerbackandsidesasyougo.Don’thyperfocusononespotfortoolongwithoutcheckinghowthatfittingisaffectingtherestofthegown.
10.Mark/pin/bastethefinalwaistpoint.Ifthisisdifferentfromthebastedwaistedgeoftheliningfrontfromstep10(TheBodice,here),removethebastingstitch,fiddleandbasteagain.
11.Whenfinished,makesureyouandyourmodelarebothhappywiththeoveralllookandfit.Thencarefullyremovethegownfromthemodelbyunpinningthestomacher,frontsandshoulderstraps.Leavethesideseamsandwaistpinsandmarkingsinplace.
12.Laythegownandbodiceoutopenandflat.Stitchtheliningstogetheratthemarked,fittedsidebackseamsfromtheinsideusingahemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),avoidingthefashionfabric.Presstheseamsopenandtrimseamallowanceto¾to1inch(2to2.5cm).
13.Nowfromtheoutside,smoothandpinthefashionfabrictowardthesidebackseam,foldingundertheseamallowancetocreatetheprettycurvingsideseamsseeninoriginals.Youwantthesidebackseamstobeflatteringandevenonbothsides.Itdoesnothavetomatchtheliningsidebackseams.Oneoftheeasiestwaystomatchthesidebackseamsistodoonesidefirst,getitexactlyhowyoulikeit,andthencopyitontheothersidebydoingapoint-for-pointmeasureandmarkingthepointswithpins,pencilorchalk.Measureonefinaltimeaftereverythingispinnedintoplacetocheckthatyourcurvesareeven.
14.Prickstitchthesidebackseamsintoplaceusingthesamedistance/methodthatwasusedfortherobingsandbackpleats(here).
15.Basteupthefashionfabricwaistseamaccordingtoyourpinsorothermarkingmethod.Basteupthewaistedgeofthefashionfabricasbestyoucanbeneaththebodicepleatsattheback—itmaytapertonothing,butbesurethisrawnessishiddenunderthebodicepleats.
16.OriginalEnglishgownsshowanumberoftreatmentsforthetopofthebodiceback.Themostcommonfinishingistobindtheedgewithastripofself-fabric,sometimesdonebeforetheshoulderstrapsaresetandsometimesafterward.We’vechosentobindfirst,bypassingthetrickyanglesandfussystitchingthatcomewithbindingthetopedgelast.Todothis,cutastripofself-fabriconthestraight,thelengthofyourbodicetopedge,andyourdesiredwidthdoubled.Addseamallowancetothelongedges.
17.Applyhalfthewidthofthebindingtothetopedgeofthebodice,overthepleats.Prickstitchthebindingontheexterior(¼x¼inch[6x6mm]),thenfoldtheremainingwidthovertheedgeandtotheinsideofthebodice.Hemstitchtheedgetotheliningontheinside(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Don’tworryaboutfinishingtheshortedgesontheendsofthebinding—thesewillbecoveredbytherobingslater.
18.Next,wewillattachtherestofthegownskirting.Sewtheadditionalsideskirtpanelstothebackofthegownusingamantuamaker’sseamforrawcutedgesorarunningbackstitchforselvageedges(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
19.Leave10inches(25.5cm)fromthetopofskirtsopenatthatseamforthepocketopenings.Turnbackandrunningstitchselvageedgesorbasteandhemstitchtheopeningonrawcutedges(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
20.Beforepleatingtheskirt,marktheplacementofyourpocketslitsonthewaistedgeofyourbodice.It’susuallyjustalittleforwardofthecenterofyourunderarm.Keepitevenonbothsides.
21.Nowwe’regoingtoknifepleatallthisskirtintothebodice.Thefirstcouplepleatsstartingatthecenterbackofthegownaretricky.Thebodicepleatsflowingfromthebackintotheskirtmustoverlaytheskirtpleats.Todothis,scoochtheprepleatedskirtpaneltowardthecenterback,underthebodicepleats,toformonehiddenknifepleat.Pin.
22.Continuetopleatandpinthesidebackskirts,workingtheknifepleatsfromthecenterbacktowardthefront.Adjustasneeded,thenbaste.
23.Pleatandpintheskirtfrontpanels,workingtheknifepleatsfromthefronttowardtheback,andcheckingthelengthagainstthebodicewaistmeasurementtheskirtneedstofitinto.Adjustasneeded,thenbaste.Thesizeandnumberofpleatsaredependentonhowmuchfabricyouhave,yourwaistsizeandyourtargettimeperiod:largerpleatsforearlier;smallerpleatsforlater.WecannotgiveyouaformulaforpleatingyourGeorgiangown.Youjustneedtoembraceyourinnereighteenth-centurymantua-maker.Makeitwork.Makethempretty,butdon’twasteyourtimewithmathandperfection.Ifonesidehasanextrapleatinit,that’sfine—originalsdidtoo—andnobodywillbecountingthem.
24.Pullbacktheliningfromthewaistedgeontheinsideandpinoutoftheway.
25.Workingflatfromtheoutside,lapthebastedbodicewaistedgeoverthepleatsofthesidebackskirtandpin.Checkthatnothingispullingorrumpled,especiallywherethebodicebackpleatstransitionintotheskirtpleats.Allshouldliesmoothandflat.
26.Fromtheoutside,prickstitchthepleatstothewaistedgethroughallfashionfabriclayers,catchingeachpleatasyougo.Aimfora⅛-inch(3-mm)squareprickstitchanddon’tfusstoomuchtryingtogetitperfect.Stitchfromthebackpleatstothepocketslitmark.Leavethepleatedfrontskirtsfreeatthispoint.
27.Flipthegowntotheinsideandunpinthelining.Workingflat,smooththelining,foldundertheseamallowanceontherawwaistedgeatthebackhalfofthebodice,andhemstitchoverthepleats(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Don’tworryaboutcatchingallthelayers—thepleatsarenowsecuredonboththeexteriorandinterior.
SLEEVESANDCUFFSDuringthegreatspanofyearstheEnglishgownwasinfashion,variouscufftreatmentscameinandoutofstyle.EarlyEnglishgownshadlargeopencuffswhilewingedcuffsandruffledsleeveflounces(here)cameintostylelater.We’vechosenlargepleatedcuffstopairwiththebroad,early-stylesleeves.Wingedcuffsaremadewiththesamemethodinvaryingsizesandflares.
1.Cutouttheliningandthefashionfabricforbothsleeves,makingsureyouhavealeftsleeveandarightsleeve.Ithelpstoworkbothsleevestogethertomakesureyouhavealeftandright.
2.Basteupthefashionfabricseamallowanceonthecuffedgeofthesleeve.
3.Placetheliningonthefashionfabricwrongsidestogether.Foldtheliningseamallowanceintositjustbelowthefashionfabric,andedgehemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).It’sokayifthestitchisvisiblefromtheoutside.
4.Bastethesleeveheadliningandfashionfabrictogethertohelpwithfittinglater.
5.Foldthesleeveinhalf,matchingtherawedges,andpinallfourlayerstogether.Backstitchtogether(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
6.Presstheseamallowanceopenortooneside.
7.Nowwewillconstructthecuffs.Foldandbasteupallfoursidesofthefashionfabriccuff.
8.Placethecuffliningonthefashionfabric,wrongsidetogether.Pinthroughthemiddletoholdthelininginplace,thenturneachedgeoftheliningtositslightlyinsidetheouterfabricedge,pinandhemstitcharoundallfoursides(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
9.Withtheliningandouterfabricattached,markthepleatsontheoutsidewithchalkorwashable/removableink.
10.Foldthecuffinhalf,rightsidestogether,matchingtheshortedges,andwhipstitchtogether(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
11.Fromtheoutsideofthecuff,pleatupwardthreetimesaccordingtoyourmarks.Besuretolineuptheverticalseam.Pinintopositionandtackeachpleatdownwithsmallprickstitches(5to6stitchesperinch[2.5cm])tosecurethepleatsforatleast1inch(2.5cm)oneachsideofthecenterseam.
SECONDFITTINGANDFINISHINGUPTheeighteenth-centurymethodforsettingsleevesdifferedgreatlyfromtoday’stechniques.Sleevesweresetonthebody,workingfromtheoutside,toachievecomfortandmobility.Thismethodisusedthroughalltheprojectsinthisbook.
1.Putthegownonoverallunderpinningsandwithyourpropershoeson.Atthispointyoucanusethelacingstripstoclosethegown,keepingthebackwell-fitted.Placethestomacheroverthelacingstrip,thenpinthegowntothestomacher,placingthepinsbeneaththerobings.
2.Pulltheliningoftheshoulderstrapverysnugglyoverthemodel’sshoulder.Pinchtherawedgesofthestrapandbackshoulderseamtogether,pin,thenallowtolieflat,withtheseamallowancefacingupward.Balanceisimportant,butnothingisworsethanpoorlyfittedshoulderstrapsthatfalloff.Theyneedtobetight!Dependingontheshapeofyourshoulders,yourstrapsmayneedtobesetnarrowlyorbroadlyintheback.Adjustasneededuntilthestrapsaresecureand
thefrontandbackbodicepiecesdonotgapealongtheneckline.
3.Repeatfortheothershoulderstrap,matchingtheanglesasbestyoucan.Almosteveryonehasashouldertheyholduphigherthantheother—that’snormal,buttrytomaketheshoulderstrapsappearevenfromtheoutside.Don’tworryabouttheseamallowancebeingevenontheinterior—fitandoutwardappearanceismostimportant.
4.Pullthefirstsleeveontothemodel’sarm,roughlypinningthesleeveseamandshoulderpoint.Manyeighteenth-centurysleeveseamsusuallysitsomewherebetweenthetrueunderarmandalmostvisiblebackofthearm.
5.Workingfromroughlywhereyourarmpitstartsinfront,fittheundersideofthesleeve,foldinguptheseamallowanceandcarefullypinningintoplace.
6.Withtheunderarmpinned,workthetopofthesleeve,tuckingandpleatingatthetopoftheshoulderandworkingtowardthebacktomaketheextravolumeofthesleeveheadfit.Turntheseamallowanceunderandpinasyougo.Earliergownsarecommonlyfitovertheshoulderstrapsbutundertherobings,withtheseamallowanceturnedunder,butrawedgesmayalsobeleft,tobecoveredlaterbytherobings.
7.Withbothsleevesset,pullthecuffsoverthesleevesandpinintopositionallaroundthetopofthecuff.Whenyoureachthebackofthearm,youwillhaveextralengthinthecuffversusthecircumferenceofthesleeve.Foropencuffs,likeours,justleavethisextrabitto“float.”Forwingedcuffs,pinchtheexcessatthetopjustwherethecuffmeetsthesleeveandpin.
8.Next,wewillfittheskirtpanels.Wehavefounditeasiesttofitthefrontskirtpanelsofmostgownsonthebody,overallunderpinningsandwithyourpropershoeson.Tucktheprepleatedandbastedskirtfrontpanelbetweentheouterfabricandtheliningofthebodicefront.Adjustthelengthandangleasneededuntiltheskirtpleatsfallgracefullyoverthepetticoatwithnotwisting,collapsingorbuckling.Pin.
9.Marktheskirthemlength,thencarefullyremovethegownfromthemodel.
10.Insidethebodice,wheretheshoulderstrapattachestothebackofthebodice,carefullystitchdownthestraptotheliningofthegownusingsmallhemmingstitches.
11.Nowit’stimeforthemagicalarmscyepinningtrick.Tomakeiteasiertobackstitchtheunderarmofthesleeves,thepinsareadjustedtogointothearmscye.Pintheentireunderarmthiswayfromwhereitstartsatthefrontcreasetowheretheshoulderstrapwillbegininthebackofthegown.
12.Afterperfectingyourpinning,drawapencillinetoshowthecurveofthearmscye,matchingbothsides.Tightlybackstitchalongthisline(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
13.Movingontothetopofthesleeve,prickstitchthesleeve(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm])intoplacethroughalllayers,overthetopoftheshoulderstrap.Thetopofthesleevewillbecoveredbytherobing.
14.Ontheinside,cutouttheexcessfabricinthearmscye,leavingabout¼to½inch(6.3to12.7mm)rawseamallowance.
15.Onthecuffs,doaspacedprickstitcharoundjustthetopedge.Allowanyexcessto“fly”attheback.Forwingedcuffs,makeafewstitchesatjustthetopwhereyoupinnedthecuffinback.
16.Nextlaytheshoulderstrapovertopofthebindinginback,turntherawedgesunder,andmakesurethattheanglesandmatchpointsarethesameonbothsidesofthegown.Prickstitchintoplace(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm]).Thiscanbetricky,especiallyifyourshouldersareuneven.Powerthrough!Youcandoit!
17.Hemstitchclosedanyremainingopeningalongtheneckline(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
18.Atthewaistedge,turnbacktheliningandpintokeepitoutoftheway.Thenprickstitchthebodiceandskirttogethercatchingineachpleatthroughalllayers(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm]).
19.Releasethebodicelining.Smoothtowardthewaistedge,thenturnundertheseamallowanceandhemstitchovertheskirtfrontpleats(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
20.Finally,hemyourgown.Thesizeofthehemshouldbebetween¼inch(6mm)and½inch(1.3cm)wide(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Nomoreoritstartstolooktoomodern.Yourhemmaybelongerinback,angledupatthefront,orevenallthewayaround,dependingonyourfigure,underpinningsandstylisticpreferences.
Congratulations!Youdidit!TheEnglishgownisdone!
1740sNeckHandkerchief
Neck handkerchiefs in the 1740s were large and full. They could besquares folded in half or triangular with slits or shaping on the longedge.Somekerchiefsweretrimmedwithlacewhileothersweresimpleand plain. This kerchief has some shaping in the neck, and is inpossessionoflonger“tails”tofilloutthestomachersectionofthe1740sgown.Thisprojectisanothergreatpracticepieceforfinehemming,andyoucanalsomakeitoutoffancierfabrictomakeitamorefashionablepiece.
MATERIALS•1yard(1m)oflightweightlinen•Linen(60/2)orcottonthread
ASSEMBLY1.Ironandstarchthekerchiefpiece.Folditinhalf,matchingcorners,andpressagain.Openandlayflat.
2.Fromthelongedge,measuredownintothebodyoftheneck
handkerchief3.5inches(8.9cm)alongthecentercreaseandmarkwithapin.Cutopenalongthislinetothepin.
3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onalledges,includingtheslitandbaste.Thepointwheretheneckslitendsandtheneckhandkerchiefbodystartswillnotbasteback.Leaveitfreefornow.
4.Turnupalledgesagain,foldingthe¼inch(6mm)bastededgeinhalftocreatea⅛-inch(3-mm)-widenarrowhem.Hemstitch(12to16stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
5.Attherawendpointoftheslit,closelywhipstitchovertherawedgetofinish.
1740sApron
Madeoutofaplainwovenwhitelinen,thisprojectisexcellentpracticeforyourfinehemmingandstrokegathers.We’veshapedthetopoftheapron with a dip, which accommodates the robings and presents thatnice tidy appearancewhenworn. Aswith all the accessories, you candressitupordownwithyourfabricchoices.
MATERIALS•1yard(1m)Irishlinen,cottonorsilkorganza•Linen(60/2)orcottonthread•2.5yards(2.5m)½–1”(1.3–2.5-cm)widelinenorcottontape
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthebodyoftheapronaccordingtothecuttingdiagram(here).
2.Basteandhemstitchthreesidesoftheapron,leavingthewaistedgeraw(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
3.Startingfromtheoutsideedge,runningstitchtothecenteroftheapron,spacingyourrunningstitchesabout¼inch(6mm)apart.Continuewithtwoadditionalrowsofrunningstitchesabout⅛inch(3mm)belowthisfirstrow,followingthespacing.
4.Repeatstepthree,thistimestartingfromthecenterandstitchingtowardtheoutsideedge.
5.Withthethreeendsofthethreadheldtogether,drawuptherunningstitchestotheneededwidth,approximatelyaquarterofyourwaistmeasurement.Anchorthethreadsbywrappingtheminafigureeight
aroundapin.Repeatforthesecondhalf.
6.Keepthegatherseven.“Stroke”eachbumpofthegatherswiththepointofyourscissors,orasimilartool,tospaceeachgatherevenly.Workonesideoftheapron,thentheother.Tohelpcontrolthefullness,shootalittlesteamfromtheironontothegathersandtapwithyourfingers.
7.Cutthewaisttapeapproximatelydoubleyourwaistcircumferenceplusenoughtotieabow.Foldthislengthinhalfandmarkthecenterwithapin.
8.Matchingthecenteroftheaprontoptothecenterofthewaisttape,laytheedgeofthewaisttapeoverthewaistedgeoftheapronapproximatelyhalfthewidthofthetape.Pin.Leavetheotherhalfofthewaisttapetofoldover.
9.Hemstitchtheedgeofthewaisttapetotheapron,catchingevery“bump”ofthegathers.
10.Ontheinside,foldtheremainingwaisttapeovertherawedgeandhemstitchtotheapron,againcatchingeverybumpofthegathers.
Done!
1740sCap
This cute little cap is based on fashion prints from the 1740s.10 Weconsider it a “Lappet Cap Lite” as it has tiny lappet-like shapes at theside of the face but does not tie under the chin. Themini-lappets canalsobepinnedupoutoftheway,whichwascommonduringthe1740s–1750s.We’veoptedtomakethecapoutofaplainwhitelinentomatchourotherworking-classmillinery,butthispatterncaneasilybemadein
cottonorgandyorsilkgauzeforamorefashionablelook.
MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)Irishlinen,cottonorgandyorsilkorganza•Linenthread(60/2&35/2)•20”(51cm)of¼”(6-mm)widefinecottontapeorcandlewicking•1+yard(1+m)of1”(2.5-cm)widesilkribbonfordecoration
ASSEMBLY1.Lightlystarchandironthepieces.Thishelpsavoidthewibbly-wobblyoflinen.
2.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onallsidesofthebandandruffleofthecap
andbaste.Foldthis¼inch(6mm)inhalfagaintocreatea⅛-inch(3-mm)-widenarrowhem.Hemstitch(12to16stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)ontheedgesofthecaulandbaste.
4.Foldthecaulpieceinhalftofindthecenterback.Markwithapin.
5.Usinganawl,workaholeatthecenterofthebottomedgeofthecauljustabovethebasting.
6.Usewaxedlinenthread,doubled,toovercasttheedgesofthehole.Whencomplete,pokewiththeawlagaintoopenandshapetheeyelet.
7.Atoptheturnedandbastededge,securethetapetothebaseofthecaulpieceoneachendusingafewstrongbackstitches.
8.Pulltheexcesstapethroughtheeyelet,usinganawlorpintopushthetapethrough.Cutthetapeatthecenter.
9.Foldupthestraightbottomedgeofthecaulpieceoverthetape.Finelyhem,makingsurenottocatchthetapeinthestitches.
10.Finehemtheremainingbastededgesofthecaul(seestep2).11.Withapin,markwherethegatheringshouldstartoneachsideofthecaulofthecapsothatitwillfitintotheband.Thisisabout1to1.5inches(2.5to3.8cm)uponeachside.
12.Foldthecaulinhalftofindthetopcenterpointandmarkwithapin.
13.Foldthebandinhalftofindthetopcenterpointandmarkwithapin.
14.Usingaheavierthread,looselywhipoverthecurvedhemmededgeofthecaulfromonesidetothecenterpoint,about4to6stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Pullupthisthreadtogatherhalfofthecaultoapproximatelyhalfthelengthofthebandandtieoff.Repeatstep14fortheothersideofthecaul.
15.Pinthecaultothebandwithrightsidestogether,matchingthecentermarks.Whipstitchthetwopiecestogether,catchingeverybumpofthegathers.Whencomplete,openouttheseam,pressandpullflatwithyourfingers.
16.Theruffleisapproximately1.5timesthelengthoftheband.Theruffleisnotastightlygatheredasthecaul.Startthegatheringbylooselywhippingoveronelongedgeofruffle,stopping3inches(8cm)in.Pullthegatheringthreaduptoreducethis3-inch(8-cm)sectionto2inches(6cm),thentackstitchtheendtosecurethegatheredsection.Donotcutthethread.
17.Continuealongthelengthofthebandin3-inch(8-cm)sections,eachtimewhipping3inches(8cm),gatheringto2inches(5cm),thentackstitchingbeforecontinuing.
18.Withrightsidestogether,pintheruffletotheband.Whipstitchtheedgestogether,beingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathersthentieoff.Openouttheseam,fingerpressandpulltosetthestitching.
19.Irontheseamssoeverythinglayssmoothlyandrestarchasneeded.20.Addthesilkribbonasdecoration.
1740sMitts
Mittswere a goodway to keep your forearmswarm in the eighteenthcentury.Theycouldbefancyorplainandunlikegloves,wereopenontheends.Thesemittsareasimpledesignmadefromlightweightwool,cutonthebiastoprovidestretchandfittotheintendedwearer’sarms.
MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)worstedwool•Silkthread#30•Smallscrapincomplementarysilktaffeta
ASSEMBLY1.Hemthebottomedgeofthesilkfacingpiece(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Setaside.
2.Cutthethumbholewithseamallowanceinthebodypieceofthe
mitts.Setaside.
3.Hemthetopedgeofthethumbpiece(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
4.Stitchtheseamofthethumbpieceusingabackstitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
5.Turnuptheseamallowanceonthebaseofthethumbpieceandbaste.
6.Pinthebaseofthethumbpiecearoundtheholeinthebodyofthemittsontherightside.Thisisatopicalapplicationandwillbestitchedfromtheoutside.Matchtheseamofthethumbpiecetothepeakofthethumbhole.Appliquestitchthethumbpiecetothebodyofthemittsfromtheoutside(10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Keepyourstitchessmallandneat.
7.Withthethumbpieceappliedbutthebodyofthemittsstillflat,turnunderandbastehalfoftheseamallowancealongthetopedgeofthemitts.
8.Withwrongsidestogether,matchthepointofthemittsandthepointofthefacingpiece.Turnundertheseamallowanceofthefacingpiecetomatchthebastededgeofthemitts,andhemstitchinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leavethepreviouslyhemmedbottomedgeofthemittsfree.
9.Turnandhemstitchtheremaining,unfacedtopedgeofthemitts(theundersideofthehand).
10.Nowwewillhaveamitt-fit.Withwrongsidestogether,matchthesideseamsofthebodyofthemittsandpinlengthwise.Thenwiththemittsonthemodelright-side-outandtheseamallowanceontheoutside,adjustthepinsalongtheseamuntilthefitissmoothandcloselyfitted.Avoidmakingthemittstootight,especiallyaroundthewrist.Testyourpinningbytakingthemittsonandoff,adjustinganywherethatmaybetootightortooloose.
11.Removethemitts,layflat,andmark¼inch(6mm)seamallowanceoutfromthepinmarks.Cutofftheexcess.
12.Unpinandturnthemittsinsideout,matchingtheseamsright-sidestogether.
13.Backstitchalongtheseamline(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),leavingthe¼inch(6mm)seamallowance.Presstheseamopen.
14.Hemtheelbowedgeofthemitts¼inch(6mm)(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
1740sSimpleStrawHat
The ever-popular strawhatwas a staple ofGeorgian dress throughouttheentirecentury.Asimplestrawhat,liketheonewe’redemonstratinghere, is a great example of a working-class piece. However, there aremanywaystoskinahat!Justaquicklookatperiodimageswillshowyoumyriaddesignoptions.Becreativeandhavefun!
MATERIALS•1strawhatblank—afinestrawwithashallowcrown,approximately15”(38cm)indiameter,naturalorblack
•3–4yards(3–4m)ofsilkribbon,1–2”(2.5–5cm)wide•Silkthread(#30)
ASSEMBLY1.Measurealengthofribbonlongenoughtocarryoverthetopofthehat,downthesides,andtieunderthechin(about60inches[1.5m]).Foldthisribboninhalftofindthecenterpoint,andpinittothecentertopofthecrown.
2.Smooththeribbondownthesidesofthecrownandstitchinplaceon
eachside.
3.Smooththeribbonalongthebrimtotheedgesandfinelytackstitcheachsideoftheribbon.
4.Tomakethebows,cuttwoshortlengthsofribbon,approximately6-inches(15-cm)long.Laptheendsoftheribbontomakealoop.Stitchtohold.
5.Withthejoinattheback,pinchthebowinthemiddle.Passafewstitchesthroughthebackofthepinchedportiontoholdinplace,thenpressthebowflatwiththeiron.Repeatforthesecondbow.
6.Placethetwobowsatoponeanotheratrightanglestoformtherosette.Stitchthroughalllayerstosecurethebowstogether.
7.Stitchthefinishedrosettetothehatatthebaseofthecrown.Repeatfortheoppositeside.
Done!
HowtoGetDressedandWearYourEnglishGown
ASSEMBLY1.Startwithyourshift,stockingsandshoeson.Putonyourunder-petticoatandtieitaroundyourwaist.Nextcomethestays,lacedonovertheunder-petticoat.Ifyouhaveapocket,tieiton.Hookthebowunderoneofyourstaytabs.
2.Putonyourcapandpinintoplacewithtwostraightpinsoneitherside.
3.Nextisthepetticoat.Putthepetticoatonoveryourhead,thentiethebacktapestothefrontofthebodywiththebowofftooneside.Thentiethefrontofthepetticoattothebackofthebody.
4.Putonyourgownandlaceupthehiddenlacingstripstosecurethegowntoyourbody.Pullyourshiftsleevesdownandoutsotheyarevisibleatyourelbow.
5.Pinyourstomacheroverthetopofyourgownlacesbutbeneaththefrontedgesandrobingsofthegownitself.
6.Pintwolovelypiecesofribbontoeachsideofthegownfrontedges,justbelowthetopofthestomacher.Theseribbonsmayalsobestitchedtothegownpermanently.
7.Tietheribbonstogetherinabowatthecenterfrontofyourstomacher.
8.Nowpinthegownclosedwithstrongstraightpins.Pinunderneaththerobings,throughthehiddenfrontedgesofthegownandtothestomacher.Thepinningdoesn’thavetobeperfect,justsecure.Pinallthewaydowntothewaistonbothsides.Ifneeded,pinthetopoftherobingsinplaceatthewaistedgetokeepthemsmoothandsecure.
9.Tieonyourapronbyhookingthefront“dip”undertherobingsandallowingthisareatobealittleloose.Crosstheaprontiesinbackandbringbackaroundtothefront,tyinginabowandhookingitundertherobingsandstomacher.
10.Putthekerchiefonwiththelongedgearoundthebackofyourneckandtuckthetailsthroughtheribbonatthetopofyourstomacher.
11.Lastly,foroutdooractivities,tieandpinthehatoveryourcap.Forthe1740s,thehattiesmaybeworneitheratthebackoftheheadorunderthechin.Werecommendtyingtothebackofthehead;underthechincanlookunintentionallydorky.
12.Andifithappenstobecoldthatday,pullonyourmitts.Thesetakealittletuggingifthefitisright,sodon’tdespairshouldtheyfeeltoosmallatfirst—thebiascutallowsthemtostretch.
Nowyou’rereadyforthemarket!
CHAPTERTHREE
TheSacqueGown1760s-1770s
INSPIREDBYFRANCISCOTES’SAPORTRAITOFALADY,1768&PATTERNSOFFASHION,PG25.1,2
Oftenwhennewcostumersthinkoftheir1700s“dreamdress,”theyimmediatelyenvisiontherobealafrançaise,orwhatwascontemporarilyknowninEnglishasthesacquegown.
Thestackedboxpleatsfallingfromtheshoulderstothefloorcreatesomeofthemostelegantlinesinthehistoryofwomen’sfashion.
Thebeautifulsilhouetteandpeculiarconstructionofthesacquegowndoesmakeittricky,evenfortheskilledcostumer,butwehopetobringclaritytothequirksofthisbeautifulstyle.
Oursacquegowncomesfromthelate1760s,andwhileitisnotextremeinitsproportions,wearen’tskimpingontheruffles.Oh,therewillberuffles!
Themostpopularfiberforthesacqueissilk:silktaffeta,silkdamaskorsilksatin.Pretty,expensiveprintedcottonswereusedtoo,aswellastheoccasionalembroideredlinen.
Thisdesignalsolendsitselftotheshortform,knownastheshortsacqueorpetenl’air.It’sallinthename—theshortsacqueiscutjacket-length,longerearlierinthecenturyandshorterlateron.Now,ifyouknowFrenchoryou’reawizatGoogleTranslate,thenyou’llknowthatpetenl’airmeans“fartintheair.”Thissaucynameisindeedhistoricallyaccurate!Asitturnsout,MadamePompadourinventedthisstyleofshortdress,andonthefirstdayshedebutedtheoutfit,oneofhermaids“gaveventtosomeconfinedair.”ApparentlyMadamePompadourthoughtthiswashilariousanddecidedtonamehernewoutfitafterthishappylittleaccident.3
RobeàlaFrançaise(Detail),c.1760,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,1996.374a-c
RobeàlaFrançaise(Detail),c.1775,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.2007.211.720a-b
RobeàlaFrançaise,c.1775,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2005.61a,b
OURCHOICESFORTHESACQUEGOWNLet’sbehonest.Ourmainmotivationandgoalforourlate1760ssacquewastolooklikeacakecoveredindeliciousfrosting.ItwasthemotivationofmanyaGeorgianladyaswell!Whenlookingatportraitsfromthe1760sandearly1770s,weseethatwomenlovedusingmatchingtrimfortheirgowns.Whiletrimcouldbehemmedorpinked,gatheredorpleated,evensacquegownsthatwerenot“formal”werestillheavilytrimmed,oftenwithpassementerietrimmingthetrimofthegown!Wehaveusedpinkedself-fabrictrimforthegownandpetticoat,withcarefulattentiontotheproportionofthetrimtoachievethatflatteringandhistoricallyaccurateeffect.Our gown is designed to go over moderately sized hoops. Theirconstructionissuchthattheyshouldbeeasyandquicktomakeandtostoreor travelwith.Wedon’t recommendwearing a full sacquegownwithouthoops.Havingthatadditionalwidthisimportanttosuccessfully
showoff the trimon the frontof thegownand thepleats in thebackwhilegivingtheillusionofasmallerwaist.Bonus!Inthischapter,wewilldemonstrateanumberofsacque-specificfittingtechniquesalongwithtrimmingtipsandtricksfortight-wovensilkandtutorialsforworkingwithlighter-than-airorganza.Onward!
ANOTEONHAIRSTYLINGFORYOURSACQUEGOWNBeforewemoveontotheprojects,wewanttoaddresssomepotentialstylingissues.Ninety-fivepercentofladieswhowanttomakeandwearasacquegownensemblealsowanttorocktheverylarge,supertallhairstylesbecause“that’ssoeighteenthcentury!”Butthat’snotalwaysthecase.Hairstyleschangedconstantlythroughoutthecentury,andtherearedistinctshiftsinhairstyleseverycoupleofyearsinthelasthalfofthe1700s.ThetallGeorgianhairstylewasactuallyonlyinfashionforashorttime:1772to1775.Before1772attheearliest,Englishwomenworetheirhairmuchlower,andusuallyunpowderedorverylightlypowdered.Post1776,whilehairisstilltall,thestylestartstowidenoutatthetopcreatingamoreheart-shapedstyleandeventuallymorphsintothe“hedgehog”hairstyleofthe1780s,widerthanitwastall.Asalways,returntoresearch.Collectprimary-sourceimagesfromtheyearyouareportrayingandstudythehairstylesclosely.Compareandcontrastwithotheryears,particularlyinthesamedecade,todevelopyourGeorgianstylesense.4
OH,SWEET,SWEETSILKWorkingwithandwearingrealsilkismagical.Whilethereweremanydifferenttypesofsilkfabricusedintheeighteenthcentury,silktaffetaisago-tochoicetoday.Anincrediblycommonfabricintheeighteenthcentury,silktaffetaiscrisp,lightweightandmakesthebestswooshynoiseswhenyouwalk.Whenyou’reworkingwithrealsilk,itdoesn’tslipandslidelikefauxpolyestersilk.It’seasytopleatalotoffabricintoatinyspace,allowingthosesuperfull,superprettyskirts.Itreallycan
makeyoufeelluxuriousandglamorous.However,therearesomedrawbacksandtrickstosilkthatweneedtoaddress.Did you know that silk is the hottest fabric to wear? It is the leastbreathableofthefournaturalfibers(yes,evenwool!).Youwillprobablyregret wearing it to an outdoor summer event, unless becoming awalkingsaunaisyourplan.Silkalsodoesn’tdowater,soavoidarainyday.Therearenotenoughtissuesintheworldtosoakupthosetearsofdevastation.The biggest problem with silks today is the loom widths. You see,eighteenth-centurysilkwaswovenathalfanellwide,whichequatestoanywhere between 18 and 24 inches (20.3 to 60.9 cm) wide,significantlynarrowerthantheup-to-60-inch(152.4-cm)-widefabricwehave today.5Thewidthof silkaffected thewayamantuamakercutagown,howithung,howtheyachievedthefullnessinsomeplaces,etc.Whilecuttingsilkupintopanelsissometimesasmartoption,therearesomecaseswherethismightnotbenecessary,optinginsteadforafalseseam. Why create more work for yourself? The eighteenth-centurymantuamakercertainlywouldn’thave!Silk came in different qualities andweights in the eighteenth century.Not all silks were, or are, created equal. Here’s a quick guide forshoppingeighteenth-century-stylesilktaffetas.
1.Plainwovenandchangeable(differentcolorsforwarpandweft).Thesearealwaysacceptableandagoodchoice,butavoidslubbyplainweavessuchasduppioni,raworThaisilk.Slubsinsilkareconsideredfaultsintheeighteenthcentury,andsothebiggertheslubs,thelowerthequality.Whileamodernmachinewovenduppioniwithverysmallandminimalslubbingcouldworkfora“cheap”eighteenth-centurysilkgown,giveitapassforaballgownoranysortofformaldress.
2.Stripes.Popularthroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury.Besuretomakenoteofstripewidthanddesignrepeatinrelationtothedecadeyou’rere-creating.Notallstripeswilldo.
3.Plaidsor“cross-barred.”Popularforsacquesduringthe1760sand1770s.Bemindfulofcolors,densityandscaleandchoosewisely.Eighteenth-centurycross-barredsilksarenottartans!
4.Embroidered.Mostmodernsilksaremachineembroideredintoo-moderndesigns.Becarefulwhenchoosingoneofthese,orconsiderhand-embroideringplain-weavetaffetayourself.
5.Brocade/jacquard/damask.Agorgeouschoiceforearly-to-mid-eighteenth-centurysacques.Becarefulofthefabricweight,scaleandcolorsused.AvoidtheHomeDecorsectionliketheplague,andsteerawayfromVictorianesquemotifs.
6.Painted.OriginalpaintedsilkwascommonlydoneinChinaorIndiaandisimpossibletofindtoday.Thisisoneyou’llhavetodoyourselfwithreadilyavailablesilkpaintsonplain-weavetaffeta.
Whichevertypeofsilkyoudecideon,besuretoreallystudythescale,colorandlayoutoffabricdesignsonoriginalgarmentsbeforespendingmoneyonthewrongfabric!
1760sUndiesSideHoops
Eighteenth-centurygownsarewellknownfortheir“hippy”silhouettes.Theseshapeswereachievedwithvarioustypesofhoopedpetticoats,fromthefull-lengthgrandpannierstohippadstopockethoopslikethese.Thesehoopscanbemadesmallerorlargerfordifferenteffects.
MATERIALS•1–1½yards(1–1.5m)oflinenorcotton•15–17yards(15–17m)of¾”(2-cm)cottonorlinentape•4yards(4m)of½”(1.3-cm)-widecaneboning•Linenthread(60/2)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepatternaccordingtothediagram(here).
2.CutthepocketopeningandasmallTatthebottom,turnandhembothedges.Whipoverthebottomcut.
3.Turnupandbastethebottomedge½inch(1.3cm).
4.Markchannelsfor¾-inch(2-cm)tapeatthebottom,acrossthebottomofthepocketopeningandhalfwaybetweenthetwo(seepattern).Lineupthebottomtapeoverthebastededgeandthetoptapealongthewhippedbottomofthepocketslit.
5.Pinthetapeandrunningbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])bothedgesinplace,leavingtheendsopen.(Ifyouwanttosavetime,youcanuseamachineforsewingyourchannels.)
6.Turn,basteandhemonesideofthehoop,closingoneendoftheboningchannels.
7.Addtheties—theseneedtobestronglystitchedon.Onthewrongsideofthehoop,placethetiewiththerawedgejustinfromthehemmededgeofthehoop.Stitchacrosstheend.Donotcutyourthread.Foldthetapetotheoutside,overtherawedge.Hemstitchtheside,backstitchacrosstheend,hemstitchtheoppositeshortside,thenhemstitchtheotherlongendtosecureitallinplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
8.Onthebottomtie,foldthelongtapeinhalf,markthecenterandmatchthispointtothehemmededgeatthebottomhoopchannel.Backstitchsecurelyinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
9.Inserttheboning.Cliptheendsabout½to¾inch(1.3to2cm)shortoftheendsoftheboningchannelstoallowturningtheedges.
Yourboningmaybeabittoocurly.Toflattenit,spritzlightlywithwaterandweighitdownwithbooksuntildryandflatter.
10.Hemtheremainingsideovertheboningchannelsandaddthetiesasbefore.
11.Foratrimwaist,pleatthetopedgedowntoabout10to11inches(25to28cm)withseveralknifepleats.Thisisnotanexactscience.Wetook3pleatsoneachsidetowardthepocketslit.Matchtheedgesofthepocketslittogetherandtackstitchtohold.
12.Findthecenterofthewaisttapeandmatchthispointtothepocketslit.Applythetapetotheoutsideofthehoop,overlappingtherawedgebyhalfthewidthofthetape.Hemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
13.Foldthetapeovertherawedgetoencaseit,andhemstitchontheinside.
14.Ontheinsideofthehoops,pullthetiesoneachhooptoaboutthesamearcandtieinabow.Youcanadjustthespringofthehoopsbytyingthesetapestighterorlooser.
15.Nowyougettodothisallagainforthesecondhoop!
1760sTheSacquePetticoat
Petticoatsmadetofitoverunderstructuresarealittledifferentthanyouraverageall-one-lengthpetticoat.Thispetticoatfeaturesashapedtopandstraighthemandismeasuredoverthesidehoopscreatedinthischapter.Rememberthemeasuringforthepetticoatmustbedoneonthebodyordressformoverallunderpinningsandwiththeintendedshoeson.
MATERIALS•3yards(3m)of60”(153.4-cm)-widefabric(Youryardagewillvarydependingonfabricwidth,model’sheightandsizeofunderstructures.)
•2yards(2m)offabricforpetticoattrim(optional)•Silkthread(#30forseams,gathersandtopstitchingand#50forhemming)
•3.5+yards(3.5+m)¾–1”(2–2.5-cm)-widecottonorlinentape
ASSEMBLY1.Fromwaisttofloor,measurethecenterfront,centerbackandsidelengthoverthehoops.Yoursidemeasurementwillbelongerthanyourfrontandback.
2.Determinehowhighyourhemwillbefromthefloorandsubtractthismeasurementfromthecenterfront,centerbackandsidenumbers.Addseamallowanceforthehem.
3.Cutallofyourpanelsbylengthaccordingtothesidemeasurement,andbywidthtocreateatotalhemmeasurementbetween100and130
inches(2.4to3.3m).
Dependingonyourfabricwidth,youmayneedtocutandseamyourpanelstogetherorcreatefauxseams.Forourpetticoat,ourfabricwas60inches(153.4cm)wide,sowehaveusedonefullpanelforthebackandoneforthefront,trisectingeachandstitching¼-inch(6.35-mm)-narrowfalseseamstogivethelookofa6-paneledpetticoat.
4.Markthecenterpointatthetopwaistedgeofthepetticoatfront.Subtractthecenterfrontmeasurementfromthesidemeasurement,andmeasuredownthisamountfromthecenterpoint.Mark.
5.Drawalinefromthetopsideedgeofthepetticoatpaneltothecentermarkyoujustmade,andbackuptotheoppositesideofthetopedgeofthepetticoat,creatingaV.Youcansmooththisintoasoftcurve.Repeatsteps4and5forthebackandcutthisVshapeout.
6.Applyalltrimtothefrontofyourpetticoatbeforemakingup.
7.Stitchonesideseamofthepetticoatusingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges(6to8stitches
perinch[2.5cm]).Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslitandhemtheseedgestofinishthem.
8.Pleatthefrontandbackofthepetticoatatthewaist.Youarepleatingalongthecurvesyoucutearlier,butbesuretolinethepleatsupasiftheywerecutonthestraight.Leave½inch(1.3cm)seamallowanceontheunsewnsideseam.
9.Forthefront,beginknifepleats2inches(5cm)fromcenter,workingthepleatstowardthesideseams.
10.Fortheback,boxpleatinwardatthecenterback,thencontinueknifepleatstowardcenterbackonbothsides,workingouttothesideseams.Basteacrossthefrontandbackwaistpleatstoholdthem.
11.Stitchthesecondsideseam,usingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges.Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslit.Turnandhemtheedgesofthepocketslit.
12.Ontherightsideofthepleatedpetticoatwaistapplythecottontaperightsidestogether,matchingtherawedgeatthetop.Hemstitchthe
bottomedgeofthetapeinplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
13.Turnthetapefullytotheinsideandhemstitchthefreeedgeinplace.Repeatfortheback.
14.Hemthebottomofthepetticoat(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Done!Thefinalresultwillbeapetticoatthatfitsoveryourpockethoopswithaperfectlylevelhem.
1760sPinkedTrim!
Oneofthemostfunandiconictypesofeighteenth-centurydecorationispinked trimmings. Pinking became extremely popular in the sixteenthcentury and went in and out of fashion up through the nineteenthcentury.Originally,pinkingwasdonewithsharp,shapedpunchesratherthanshearsorscissors.Thesepunchesaredifficulttofindandtrickytousetoday,butscallopedpinkingshearsareavailableandcanbeusedto
createaconvincinglook.Pinkededgesweremostcommonlyscalloped,oftenwithsmallscallopswithinlargerscallops.Whilezigzagpinkingpunchesexisted,itisbesttowield your zigzag pinking shears with caution to avoid a too-modernlook.Tightlywovensilkfabricisthebestfabricforpinking.Thedenseweaveandstiffhandallowedthepinkededgetofrayverylittle.Wedonotseepinking on cotton or linen garments. These materials fray too easily,resultinginamessylook,andsocottonorlinentrimsfeaturehemmededges.Finally,whilewe’veshownthemethodforwhip-gatheringpinkedtrim,there are other treatments too. Try box pleats, knife pleats, stuffedpleats, undulating serpentine ruffles, flipped ruffles, offset gathers,appliedfly-fringeontopof thegatheredruffles, loops,puffsandbows.Youroptionsaretrulylimitless!
MATERIALS•1–3yards(1–3m)fabric(gatheringratio1:2)•Silkthread#30
READY,SET,PINK!1.Foldyourfabricyardageinhalfselvagetoselvageandtracethetemplateontoyourfabric,movingitalongtorepeatthepattern.Whentracingoutmultiplelinesoftrim,giveyourselfspacebetweenthescallopededgestobeabletoworktheshearslater.
2.Pinthroughthecenterofthefabricstripstoholdthetwolayerstogether,thencutthescallopswithyourscallopedshears.Thisisapain,buttheresultisworthit.
3.Forsinglerowgatheredtrim:foldthestripinhalflengthwiseandrunawhipgatheringstitchalongthefoldededge.
4.Ifyourtrimratiois2to1,whipgatherstitch12inches(30.5cm)andpullupthestitchtogatherthetrimdownto6inches(15.2cm),thentackstitchtoholdinplace.Carryonwiththesamethread,12inches(30.5cm)atatime.Ifyouaredoingaratioof1.5to1thisequals12inches(30.5cm)gathereddownto8inches(20.3cm).
5.Fordoublerowgatheredtrim:drawoutbothfoldlinesoncuttrimpieces.
•Foldthefirstrowandwhipstitchoverthefold,butdonotgatherup.
•Foldthesecondrowandwhipstitchoverthefold,stoppingatthesamepointasthefirstrow.
•Gatherupboththreadssimultaneouslytofityourdesiredratio.•Individuallylockstitchbothrowsinplace,andcontinueoninthismanneruntilcomplete.
6.Aftergatheringupthetrim,presstherufflesopenwithyouriron.
7.Pinthegatheredtrimwhereyoulikeonthegownorpetticoatandprickstitchinthegutterofthewhipgatherswithsmallrunningstitches.Fordouble-gatheredtrim,stitchbothlines.
1760sTheSacqueStomacher
Thestomacherofagownwasatonceamethodofclosureandavehicleformoretrim.Wehavechosentomimictrimdesignsseeninportraitureforoursacque,butyouhaveanendlessarrayofoptionswhenitcomestohowyouwishtotrimyourown.Justrememberthatyoudoneedtobeabletopinitintoplace—youdon’twantyourbowstobeintheway!Finally,whilewe’veincludedagriddedpatternforthestomacher(here),wedorecommendthatyoutakeyourownmeasurementstoensureaproperfit.
MATERIALS•1yard(1m)fashionfabric•½yard(0.5m)linenbuckram•½yard(0.5m)linenorcotton•Silkthread(#30forconstructionand#50forhemmingbows)
ASSEMBLY1.Measurethelengthandwidthneededforthestomacherorfollowourpatternhere.Thelengthshouldbefromthetopedgeofthestaystojustbelowthe“points”ofthebodicefrontedges.Thewidthshouldbeacrossthebustandacrossthewaistwithanadditional1inch(2.5cm)addedonbothsidesforthegownfrontedgestooverlap.Add½inch(1.3cm)seamallowance.
2.Cut1layeroflinen,1layeroflinenbuckramand1layerofthefashionfabric.
3.Tomakelinenbuckram,liberallypaintmedium-weightlinenwithgumtragacanthandallowtodryinthesun.Doitoutside.Thisstuffstinks.
4.Cutofftheseamallowanceofthelinenbuckrampiecesandpinorbastebothlayerstogether.Turninhalfoftheseamallowanceonthefashionfabricandbaste.
5.Centerthelinenpiecesonthefashionfabricwithevenseamallowanceonalledges.Pintohold.
6.Foldthestraighttopedgeofthefashionfabricovertherawedgeofthelinenbuckramandhemstitch.Continueworkingthesidesandbottomedge.Foldintheremainingseamallowance,coveringtherawedgeofthelinenbuckram.
7.Atthebottomcurve,withalooserunningstitch,gatherandeasethefashionfabricaroundthebottom.Pinasyougo,thenhemstitchinplace(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),catchingjustthelinenbuckram.Makesuretokeepthestomacherabsolutelyflattoavoidweirdtensionissueswiththefashionfabric.
8.Decorate!Therearesomanydifferentwaystodecorateyoursacquestomacher.Bows,lace,embroidery,ruffles,flyfringe,younameit.Weused5-LoopBows(here)andpinkedruffles(here)forours,butdon’tbeafraidtoexperimentandreallystackthosetrimson.
1760s5-LoopBows
ThisbowconfigurationiscopiedfromPortraitofaLadybyFrancisCotes.Five-loopbowsareconstructed,nottied.Forthistutorial,eachbowwillusetwopiecesofribbonstitchedtogether.Useyour5-LoopBowstodecorateyourgownstomacherandsleeves.
MATERIALS•1yard(1m)of3”(7.6-cm)-wideribbon(hemmedtaffetaorsilkribbon)perbow
•Silkthread(#30gathersand#50forhemming)
ASSEMBLY1.Cuttwopiecesofribbonapproximately19inches(48.3cm)longand12inches(30.5cm)long.Thelengthandwidthofyourribbonwilldeterminethesizeofyourbow—forsmallerbows,useashorterlengthofribbon;forlarger,uselongerribbon.
2.Withthelongerlengthofribbon,rollthefirstloopovermatchingthe
rawendtoaboutonethirdofthewaydowntheribbon.Doafinerunningstitchthroughbothlayershalfwaybetweentherawedgeandfold.Drawupthethreadandtackstitchinplace.Donotcutthethread.
3.Findthelengthofthesecondloopbyrollingituptowardwhatwillbethecenterofyourbow.Justmarkthislengthwithyourfingersorapin,thenopenflatagain.
4.Doafinerunningstitchatthispoint,drawupthethread,rolltheloopbackuptothebaseofthefirstloopandtackstitchinplace.
5.Fortheremaining2loops,rolltheshortlengthofribbonintoaloop,lappingtheends.Runafinegatheringstitchacrossthisjointhen,withoutcuttingthethread,useagatheringstitchontheoppositeside,stitchingintheoppositedirection.Pullthethreadtogatherupbothsidestogetherandtackstitchthecenterinplace.
6.Placethe2-loopbowbehindthe3-loopbowandtackstitchthebowstogetherfrominsidetheloops.
1760sTheSacqueGown
Aswithallofourgowns,thesacquebodiceliningisfittedonthebodyandthegownisconstructedontop.Theliningforthesacqueplaysanimportantroleforthelook,fitandwearabilityofthegown,formingastructuralfoundationforthefree-hangingbackpleatswhilecontrollingfullnessandfitatthesides.
MATERIALS•6–8yards(6–8m)silk(taffeta,satin,damask,jacquard)orfloralprintedcotton
•1–2yards(1–2m)linen•Silkthread(#30forseams,gathersandprickstitchingand#50forhemming)
•Linenthread(60/2)—optional
BODICEANDFIRSTFITTINGThesacquebodicelining(here)formsthefoundationuponwhichtheflowing,“loose”-lookinggownisbuilt.Thoughsimilartotheliningpiecesoftheothergownsinthisbook,thesacqueliningfeaturesadjustabletiesinbackandtwoshoulderstrapfittingseams.
1.Onthebackliningpieces,measuredown4to4½inches(10to11.4cm)atthecenterbackandmark.Thismeasurementdetermineshowdeepthestitchedbackpleatswillbelater.
2.Foldthelininginhalfandcutinabout1inch(2.5cm)fromthefolduptothemark.Opentheliningbackupandhembackall3sidesoftheresultingrectangularcutout(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
3.Attach3to4lacesevenlydownthebackopeningandstitchintoplace.Tiethebacklacesinloosebowssothebackliningliesevenandsmooth.
4.Roughlypintheliningpiecestogetheratthefrontandbackshoulderseamsandthesideseams.Thenputthebodiceonthemodeloveralltheunderpinnings.
5.Pinthefrontedgesofthebodicetothestaysintheirintendedplacementandbeginworkingaroundthebody,pinningandadjustingthefrontedgesandshoulderstrapsuntilthebodiceliningiscorrectlyplacedatthewaist,frontandcenterback.
6.Nowpinchupthesidebackseamsandpin,alternatingbetweenbothsidesofthebody.Smoothandpinuntilthebodiceliningfitssnuggly,thenmarkalongthewaistlinewithapencil,chalkorpins.
7.Measureforthestomacheracrossthebustandwaistatthefrontforthewidthandlengthofthestomacher.
8.Unpintheshoulderstrapsandbodicefrontedgesandcarefullyremovetheliningfromthemodel.Donotremovethepinsinthesidebackseamsoranymarkingthewaist.
9.Turnupandbastetheseamallowanceonthebodicefrontedges,necklineandwaist.Atthewaist,turnuptheexcessalongthewaistmarkingsyoumadeearlier.
10.Withthebodiceliningflat,stitchthesidebackseamsfromtheinsidewithafinehemorwhipstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
11.Presstheseamallowanceopenandtrimtheexcess,leavingagood½inch(1.3cm)allowance.
12.Workingflat,aligntherawedgesofthebodicefrontfashionfabricandliningalongtheshoulderstrapedgeandarmscye.Pintohold.
13.Smooththefashionfabricovertheliningworkingouttowardthefrontedge.Turnundertheseamallowancealongthebodicefront,necklineandwaistedgesandstitchtotheliningusingasmallrunningstitchorhemstitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leavethewaistfabricandliningfreeabout4to5inches(10to12.7cm)fromthesidebackseam.
14.Next,weneedtomakethebeautifulboxpleatsfortheback.Weused
4panelsof20-inch(50-cm)-widefabrictocreatethebackofthegown,eachseamedtogetherwithamantuamaker’sseamforrawcutedgesandarunningbackstitchforselvageedges.Theoverallwidthneedstobequitewide—atleast80inches(2m)wideormoreforbroaderbacks.
15.Workingflatonyourtableandoverthebodicebacklining,makethebackboxpleatsasshownhere,makingsurethatallpleatsareonthestraightofgrain.Theinteriorpleatsatthecenterbackarenotasdeepasthepleatstotheside.Inearliergownsthepleatsarewideracrosstheshouldersandinlatergownstheyarenarrower.Keepthisinmindwhenyou’remakinganddesigningyourgown.
16.Afteryoucreatetheboxpleats,ateachsidemakeathirdhiddenpleatthatwilllieunderneaththesecondpleat.Itwillnotbevisibleatthetopoftheboxpleats,butyouwillseeitatthesidewhenthepleatsflowawayfromthebody.Thisthirdpleatisextremelycommoninsacquegownsandistheretokickoutthepleatsfromthe
bodyandgivethatprettyline.Don’tskipitlestyouruntheriskofdroopypleats!
17.Placethepleatedfashionfabriccenteredoverthebodicelining,wrongsidestogether.Pin,thenprickstitchthepleatsthroughalllayersateither⅛inchor¼inch(3or6mm)squareanddowntothat4-to4½-inch(10-to11.4-cm)markyoumadeinstep1.
18.Oncecomplete,flipthebodicelining-sideup.Herringbonestitchthepleatsfromthebackfromedgetoedge,usingthetopoftheopenpanelbackasaguide.
19.Withthebacklaidoutrightsideupandalllayerssmoothandstraight,pinbeneaththebackpleatsjusttothesideofthecenterbackopeninginthebodicelining.Prickstitchthefashionfabrictotheliningparalleltothecenterbackopening.Thiscreatesasmooth,fittedbackwhileallowingthepleatstoflowoutfromthebody.Makesureyoukeepthisonthestraightanditdoesn’tpullortwistoryou’llhavetopickthestitchesoutanddoitagain.
20.You’llnoticeyouhavealotofexcessfabrictothesidesoftheback.Smooththebackofthegownoverthesidebackseamontheliningandpin.Cutouttheexcessfabricatthebodicesideseamedge,thensquareitoffabout1to2inches(2.5to5cm)abovethewaistline,leavingthelowerportionoftheextrafabricforyourskirt.
21.Atthesidebackseam,turnundertherawedgeofthefrontbodicefashionfabric,lapitoverthebodicebackrawedgeandpinitintoagentlecurve.Repeatontheothersideandmakesurethatbothseamsarecurvingsymmetricallyandarethesamedistancefromthecenterback.Theseouterseamsdonotneedtolineupwiththebodiceliningsidebackseams.
22.Prickstitchthesidebackseamsdownusingeither⅛or¼inch(3or6mm)square.Whenyoureachabout1½inches(3.8cm)fromthewaist,continueprickstitchingbutdonotcatchthelining.Youwilllaterslideyourskirtpleatsintothispocket.
SKIRTPANELSANDSECONDFITTINGNowcomesthetrickiestpartofthesacquegown—fittingtheskirts.Becauseofthelargeshapeofthehoops,sacquegownswereextended,arranged,pleatedandsmoothedtogracefullyfitoverthemwhilealsocreatingacanvasforthetrimmings.Thesetechniquesmustbedoneonthebodyordressformovertheunderpinnings.
1.Cutyourfrontskirtpanels.Weusedthehistoricwidthforsilkof20inches(50.8cm)andthewaist-to-floormeasurementtakenforthepetticoatpreviously(here).
2.Thegoreiscutfromthefrontskirtpanel,thenflippedandseamed(seehere).Atthetopedgeoftheskirtpanel,markapproximately6inches(15.2cm)infromonesideand2inches(5cm)attheoppositeend.Connectthesetwomarkswithastraightlinetodrawthegore.Thissmall-but-mightygoreaddedtothesideofthesacqueskirtscreatesextralengthinthehemthatallowsthetraintolayproperly.Don’tskipit,darlings!
3.Cutalongtheline,thenflipthegoresothe6-inch(15.2-cm)widthisnowatthebottomoftheskirtpanel,matchingangledcuttoangledcut.Usingamantuamaker’sseam,stitchthegoretothefrontskirtpanel(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)freeatthetopforthepocketslit.
4.Finishthepocketslitedgeswithanarrowhemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Thiswillbealittletrickywherethemantuamaker’sseambegins.Takeyourtime.Presstheseamsandpocketslithems.
5.Withamantuamaker’sseam,stitchthefrontskirtpanelandgoretothebackskirtandpress.
6.Turnandbastethefrontlongedgeofthefrontskirtpanels¼inch(6mm)topreparetheskirtforthefitting.
7.Nowwe’regoingtoexplainthesecondgownfitting.Startwithputtingthegownonthemodeloverallunderpinnings,andpininplace.Withtheshoulderstrapsroughlypinnedatthefront,pullthestrapsovertheshouldertomeettheshoulderseamatback.Pinchthetwoedgestogetherandpin.
8.Adjusttheshoulderstrapseamonthefront,pinchingandpinningasneededtogetaperfectlysmooth,tightfit.Don’tworryaboutkeepingtherawedgesevenhere—workoutanygapping,excessorloosenessatthisfrontseam.
9.Holdthefrontedgeoftheskirtuptothewaistsothefrontedgeshangmostlystraightdowntothefloor.Youwillnotmatchthetopedgeoftheskirtpaneltothecurvedwaistseamofthebodice;itwilloverlap.Pulltheskirtupfromthetopandpinatthebodicewaistseamuntiltheskirtpanelhangssmoothlyoverthepetticoat.Thiswillcreatean
excesswedgeofskirtatthewaistseam,butdon’tworryaboutityet.
10.Pinthepocketslittogetheratthetopedgeandplaceit1to2inches(2.5to5cm)behindthepetticoatpocketslit.Thisseemscounterintuitive,butthisplacementisimportantforthevolumeoverthepockethoops.
11.Pleattheexcessofthefrontskirtpanelatthewaistbacktowardthepocketslitwith2to3pleats.Placethesepleatsfarenoughbacksoasnottointerferewithanytrimyouplanforthefrontoftheskirt.Theideaistocreateasmooth,flat-ishcanvasontheskirtfrontpanelsforyourtrim.
12.Thetopofthefrontskirtpanelwillnowhaveanobviouswedgeshape.Pinalongthewaistedgeofthebodicetomark.Youwilllaterfolddownthisexcessandappliquestitchittothebodice,sodon’tcutitoff!Withyourpreferredmarkingmethod,markthebodicewaistedgeontheskirtpanels.
13.TurnthefrontedgeofthefrontskirtpanelbacktocreatetheinvertedVopening.Turnitbackasmuchoraslittleasyoulike—thisispersonaltaste.Thefrontskirtpanelsonsacquesareoftenangledopenatthefrontedgestoshowoffthetrimmedpetticoat.Thiscutawayisvitaltothedrapeofthesacqueskirtsandinachievingtherightsilhouette.Don’tworryaboutyourstitchesbeingvisiblefromtheturnback,thispartofthegownwillbecoveredwithtrimlater.
14.Oncesatisfied,carefullyremovethegownfromthemodel,keepingtheskirtpleats,edgepinsandshoulderstrappinsinplace.
15.Securelystitchtheshoulderstrapsatthebackandfrontseamsontheinsidewithafinehemorbackstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
16.Workingflat,runningstitchthefoldedfrontskirtpaneledgesintoplace,keepingthevisiblestitchsmall(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
17.Markthepocketslitplacementonthebodicewithapin,thenunpintheskirtsfromthebodicecompletelybutleavetheskirtpleatspinnedinplace.
18.Lapthebodicewaistedgeovertheskirt,followingthewaistmarkingontheskirtascloselyaspossible.Itmaynotbeexact,buttaketheaverageline.Pintheskirtsinplaceandadjustthepleatsifnecessarytoavoidbubbling.Fromtheoutside,appliquestitchthebodicewaistlinetotheskirts,stoppingatthepocketslit(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
19.Pleattheremainingbackskirtpanelin3to4pleatstowardthecenterback,matchingtheremainingspacebetweenthepocketslitandthesidebackseam.
20.Tucktherawedgeofthebackskirtpanelpleatsupbetweenthebodicefashionfabricandlining.Appliquestitchfromtheoutside(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])andhemstitchtheliningontheinside(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
21.Thereareanumberofwaystofinishthebackofasacquegown,frombindingthetoppleatsinthesamemannerastheEnglishGown(here),tosimplyturningtotheinsideandstitchinginplace.Bothareaccurateforsacques,sofeelfreetousewhichevermethodyouprefer.Here,wehavefoldedthebacktopnecklinetotheinsideabout½inch(1.3cm)andlooselybasteddown.
22.Cutastripoffashionfabriconthestraightabitmorethanthelengthoftheturnededgeandalittlemorethanthewidthneededtofullycovertherawedge.Addseamallowance.
23.Turnupandbastetheseamallowanceonalledgesofthisstrip,thenapplythestripovertherawnecklineedge,hemstitchingittojustthelining(6stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Itdoesn’thavetobepretty;itjustneedstocovertherawedgesoftheneckline.
SLEEVES,THIRDFITTING,HEMANDTRIMThroughouttheeighteenthcentury,sleevewidthsevolve.Broadandfullintheearlierdecadesandnarrowandtightinthelater,1760ssacquesleeveswererightbetween—nottoofullandnottootight.Hereyouwilllearnasecondmethodforsleeveconstruction,alongwiththeeighteenth-centurysleeve-settingtechniqueonthebody.Lastly,wewillfinishupthegownwithtrimapplicationandafacedhem.
1.Layoutthesleeveswithleftandrightsleeveswrongsidestogether.Cutofftheseamallowanceofthebottomedge/cuffofthesleeveliningtoreducebulkinlaterfinishing.
2.Withtheliningatopthefashionfabric,foldjusttheliningovertomatchtherawedgesandpin.Marktheseamallowanceonthelining,thenbastethethreelayerstogether.
3.Nowturnupandbastetheseamallowanceontheoppositeedgeofthefashionfabric.Lapthisedgeovertheotherthree,pinandprickstitchthroughalllayers⅛x⅛inchor¼x¼inch(3x3mmor6x6mm).Placeyourhandinsidethesleeveasyoustitchtoavoidsewingthroughtheotherside.
4.Turnthesleeveinsideoutandfinishtheelbow/cuffbybastinguptheseamallowanceofthefashionfabric,thenfoldingitupagainovertherawedgeoftheliningandhemminginplace(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).It’sokayifyougothroughallthelayers.Therufflewillhidethestitching.
5.Sleeveruffleswereanotherfacetoftheextravaganceofeighteenth-centurysacquegownsandcouldbesingle,doubleortrebleruffles.We’vechosenadoubleruffle,pinkedandwhipgathered,butletyourcreativityguideyouinyourchoiceoffluff.Forpinkedtaffetaruffles,seehere.
6.Ifyouarecreatingdoubleortrebleruffles,laythemalltogetherwiththesmallestastheouterruffle.Matchthetopedges.Pinorbastetoholdthelayerstogether,thenturnupandhembothshortendswiththetworufflesasone.
7.Fromthewrongside,foldalongthegatheringlinesandruntwolinesofwhipgatheringstitchesoverthefold.Stitchbothfoldsashere.Gatheruptherufflesbydrawingupboththreadstogether.Adjusttofitthesleevesandpinintoplace.
8.Pin,thenprickstitchtothesleevethroughbothgatheringlines,andcarefullyconnectthesleeveruffleattheshortendswithafineappliquestitch(6stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
9.Nowit’stimeforthefinalfitting.Startbyputtingonthegownwithallitsunderpinnings.Thenpullthesleeveoverthearmandpinittothetopoftheshouldertoanchorit.
10.Startingatthefrontarmpitcrease,workyourwayunderthearm,foldinginthesleeveseamallowanceandpinninginplace.Youmightbetemptedtonot“getupinthere”butremember:thehigherthearmscye,thegreaterthemobility.Justbecarefulwithyourpinningifyou’refittingthegownonarealperson.Continuepinningtothebackofthearmandaroundthetopofthearmpitcrease.
11.Onthefront,smoothandpinthesleeveovertopoftheshoulder,workingtowardtheback.Thereisnoneedtoturntheseamallowanceonthesleevehead—itwillbecoveredbythefashionfabricshoulderstraplater.Anyexcessfabricleftinthesleeveheadshouldbepleatedortuckedtowardtheback,betweentheshoulderpointandarmpitcrease.
12.Checkthatbothsleevesareeven,thatthebackseamsaresymmetricalandthatbothsleevesliesmoothlywithnorucking,twistingorweirdness.Gotweirdness?RefertoTroubleshootingheretoidentifyandcorrectanysleevefittingissues.Onceyou’refinishedwiththefitting,removethegownfromthemodel.
13.Nowtostitchthesleeves.First,verycarefullyconverttheunderarmpinsintotheverticalpinningmethodshown.Markthestitchlinewithapencil,makingsurebotharmsmatch.
14.Oncecompleted,backstitchtheunderarmintoplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Ontheexterior,withbigbackstitches,stitchthetopofthesleevetothelining,includingthepleats.Thesestitchesdon’thavetobepretty.
15.Nextlaythefashionfabricshoulderstrapinplacewithenoughseamallowanceoverlappingtheshoulderstrapseams,neckedgesandsleeveedge.Pininplace.Turnundertheseamallowanceonallfoursides.Appliquestitchtheshortedgeatthefrontshoulderstrapseam(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),thenprickstitch⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)theshoulderedge.Appliquestitchthebackofthestrapinplaceoverthebackshoulderstrapseam.Finally,withahemorfinerunningstitch,attachthestraparoundtheneckline(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Finally,cutawaytheexcessfabricinthearmscyeunderarm.
16.Nowit’stimetofinishtheskirtofthegownwithafacedhem.Withthegownskirtslaidoutflat,drawastraightlinefromtheedgeofthefrontskirtpaneltothesidebackskirtseam.Addseamallowanceandcut.Thiscreatesagentleslopefromthefrontofthegowntothetrain.Ifyoursacquedoesnothaveatrain,youcanskipthisstep.
17.Determinethewidthofyourhemfacing—thisshouldbeabitwiderthanthelengthofskirtthatdragsonthefloor,sothetopedgedoesnotmakecontactwiththeground.Addseamallowancetobothedges.
18.Onthestraightofgrain,cutyourhemfacingthewidthfromthepreviousstepbythelengthoftheentiregownhem.Youmayneedtopiecefabrictogethertogetthefulllengthneeded.Thereisnoneedtocutshapedfacingseventhoughthehemofthegownisangled.
19.Turnandbasteuptheseamallowanceonalledgesofthefacing.Turnupandbastethebottomedgeofthegownskirtaccordingtoyourseamallowancetoo.
20.Applythefacingtothebottomofthegownskirt,wrongsidetowrongside,matchingthebottomedgesandskirtfrontedgeswiththefacingset⅛inch(3mm)infromthegownskirtedge.Stitchthesetwolayerstogetherwithaveryfinerunningstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
21.Smooththefacingandgownskirtupward,pinningatintervals.Tucktheexcessalongthetopedgeofthefacing,pinninginplace.It’sbettertotakeacoupleoftucksineachpanelthanonelargetuck.Justbesureeverythinglookssmoothandlovelyontheoutside.Oncepinnedintoplace,stitchthetopedgeofthefacingintoplacewithafinerunningorhemstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Press.
22.Nowit’stimetoapplythetrimtoyourgown.Ourgowntrimswerecreatedusingthepinkingandgatheringmethoddetailedonpages85,usingasingle-gathered,narrowertrimforthenecklineandadouble-gathered,widertrimforthegownskirt.
23.Startwiththenarrowtrim.Sinceourswasonewidth,westarteditatthebeginningoftheshouldersandpinneditdownthefrontofthebodicetotheedgeoftheskirt.Stitchitdownusingalargelyspacedoutprickstitch.
24.Withtheserpentinetrim,makesurethetrimissymmetricalonbothskirtpanels.It’seasiertoplacetheselarge-scaletrimswiththegownlaidoutflat.Measure,adjustandpinasyougo.Becarefulnottopinthroughtothebackofthegown.Whenplacingyourtrimontheskirt,beawareofwherethetrimissittingontheskirtpanels.Makesurethatthetrimdoesn’twanderofftowardthebackofthegown!Oncesatisfied,prickstitchthetrimintoplaceinthegrooveofbothwhipgathers.Trimoffanyexcessontheends,foldandappliquestitchintoplacetopreventfraying.
25.Lastofall,makeandstitchalovelybowtoaddtothesleeverufflesatthecrookoftheelbow.Forthe4-LoopBowand5-LoopBow,seehereand90.
Hey,guesswhat?You’redone!
1760sRibbonChokerNecklace
Thiseasychokerwasaclassicadditiontowomen’sensemblesinthe1760sandearly1770s.They’reeasytomakeandsupercute!Thisisjustonewaytomakeachoker,butyouroptionsareendless:pinkedsilk,lace,bows,etc.Findanexampleinaportraityoulikeandbecreative!The silk ribbon in this tutorial was generously provided by BritexFabrics,SanFrancisco.
MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)2”(5-cm)-widesilksatinribbon•Silkthread(#30)•½”(1.3-cm)-widelinenorcottontapethecircumferenceofyourneck•⅛–¼”(3–6mm)-widesilkribbonfortiesintheback—enoughtotieabowplusalittleextra
ASSEMBLY1.Basteandhemtheendsoftheribbonandcottontape.
2.Foldtheribboninhalflengthwiseandrightsidestogether,thenwhipoverthefoldwithheavyweightsilkthread.Pullupthethread,
gatheringtheribbontofitthelengthofthecottontapeandsecurethethread,thenopenuptheribbonandgentlypressflatwiththeiron.
3.Prickstitchthegatheredribbontothecottontapethroughthemiddleofthegatherssothestitchesarenotvisiblefromtheoutside(6stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
4.Foldtheedgeoftheribbonandsecurelywhipittotheedgeofthelinentape.
5.Cutyourribbontieswithenoughlengthtotieinabow,plusalittleextra.Stitcheachtiesecurelytoeachendofthechoker.
1760sOrganzaandLaceApron
Apronsweremorethanfunctionalgarmentsthroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury.Womenworethemasawaytofinishthelookoftheirensemble,furtheradorningthemselvesinmoresilk,laceandembroidery.Thedrawnwaistonthisapronisuniquelysuitedtosilkorganza.Wedo
notrecommendthismethodforlinenorcottonaprons,asitwillappearbulkyandunflattering,butthedelicatelacepairedwithlighter-than-airorganzamakesforanattractiveandtexturalaccessory.
MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)silkorganza•4yards(4m)lacefordecoratingtheedgeoftheapron•1.5yards(1.5m)Jacob’sLadderBeadingLaceforthetop•Silkthread(#50)•2yards(2m)of¼”(6-mm)-widesilkribbonforwaistties
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthesilkorganzaaccordingtodiagram(here).
2.Basteupandhemallfoursidesusingfinerunningstitches(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotrollhemthisorganza,asyouareapplyinglaceoverthetopandneedaflatsurfacetoworkwith.
3.Laythelaceoverthetopofthehemmededgeandattachwithfinerunningstitches(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Takesmalltucksatintervalswhenapplyingthelacetopreventitfrombucklingandhangingfunny.
4.Whenyoureachthecorner,easethelacearounditbytakingtinytucks.Don’tskimponthelacewhenturningthecorner.Thereneedstobeenoughforthecornertolieflat.
5.ApplytheJacob’sLadderBeadingLacealongthetopedgeoftheapronusingfinerunningstitches.Threadwiththenarrowsilkribbonandgathertheaprontosuityourpreferenceswhenworn.
1760s–1770sOrganzaandLaceCap
Thiscapisinspiredbyimagesfromtheearly1770s.6,7It’sagoodtransitionaldesignlinkingthe1760sand1770s,andiswell-suitedtothemoderatehairstylesoftheseyears.Thecap’ssmallsizewillalsoaccommodatemodernshorthairstyles,too.
MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)silkorganza•2yards(2m)of¼”or½”(6-mmor1.3-cm)lace•18”(45.7cm)cordingorcandlewicking•Silkthread(#30gatheringandseamsand#50hemming)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutthefabricaccordingtothepattern(here).Bastethecauledges⅛to¼inch(3to6mm)onallsides.
2.Foldthecaulinhalflengthwise,andusinganawlpokeaholejustabovethebottombastededge.
3.Withsilkthread#30,whiptheeyeletopen,andpoketheholewiththeawlagaintorounditout.
4.Onthewrongsideofthecaul,backstitchthecordorcandlewickingtoeachsideofthestraightbottomjustabovethebastededge.Pullthetailsthroughthehole.
5.Turnupthebottomedgeofthecaulagainoverthecordandfinelyhem,makingsurenottocatchthecord.Turntheremainingbastededgesofthecaulupagainandfinelyhemwithafinerunningorhemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
6.Basteandfinelyhemallsidesofthebandwithnarrowturningsabout⅛to¼inch(3to6mm)wide.
7.Basteandfinelyhemallsidesoftheruffleswithnarrowturningsabout⅛to¼inch(3to6mm)wide.
8.Hemtheshortendsofthelace,thenattachittothefacesideoftherufflewithfinerunningstitches,takingsmalltucksasyougotoeasethelacearoundthecurvededge.
9.Oncethelaceisattached,pleatandpintherufflestofittheband.Next,whipstitchtheruffletotheband,catchingalllayersofthepleatsfromthewrongsideofthecap.
10.Matchthecenterpointofthebandandruffletogetherandstitchtoformonelength.
11.Referencingthepattern,markthestraightsidesofthecauljust
wherethesidesbegintocurveintothetopofthecaul.Foldthecaulinhalflengthwiseandpintomarkthehalfwaypointatthetop.
12.Whipstitchoverthehemmededgeofthecaulbetweenthemarkingsfromstep10.Pintheungathered,straightsideofthecaultothebandandthengatheruptherestofthecaultofittherestofthathalfoftheband.
13.Withrightsidestogether,whipstitchthecaultotheband,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.Repeatfortheothersideofthecaul.
14.Trimthecapwithasilkribbonorbow,usingsometackingstitchestoholdthetriminplace.Youcanfindinstructionsforthestandard4-LoopBowhereandthe5-LoopBowhere.
1760sOrganzaandLaceTrebleStacked
SleeveFlounces
Thesethreedelicatelayersaddtothefluffy,frothygoodnessthatissucha hallmark of Georgian dress. Our method here uses layers of silkorganzatrimmedinlace,butthepatternmayalsobeusedasaguideforall-laceflouncesorfinelyhemmedcottonorlinenruffles.
MATERIALS•2yards(2m)silkorganza•10yards(10m)lace•Silkthread(#30gathersandseamingand#50hemming)•1–1.5yards(1–1.5m)linenorcottontape
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepatternandbasteandhemall6flounceswithfinerunningstitches(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Alsohemtheendsofthetapethatyouwillattachtheflounces
to.
2.Applythelacewithafinerunningstitch(10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]),takingsmalltucksatintervalstoeasethelacearoundthecurvesoftheflounces.Hemtheedgesofthelacerufflesateachend.
3.Lineuptheflouncessoyouhavealeftsideandarightsidewiththeopeningangledtowardtheinsideofyourarm,closesttothebody.Pintheflouncessothattheshortestflounceisontheoutsideandthelongestflounceistheclosesttothearm.Whipstitchthethreelayerstogether,andgatherthemuptofitthelinentape.
4.Withrightsidestogether,whiptheflouncestothetape,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.Finally,tacktherufflesintothegownsleeveliningusinglargehemstitches.
1760sLaceTucker
Duringthe1760s,womenhadmanychoicesfordecoratingthenecklinesoftheirgowns.Eventhoughtheirgownsweretrimmed,theywouldstillwearakerchieforatuckeraroundtheirnecklines.Herewe’vechosenasimple tucker of gathered lace to match the apron and treble elbowflounces. Simple, quick and darling, this tucker is the final step inachievingthe“steppedoutofaportrait”look.
MATERIALS•2yards(2m)lace•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)linen/cottontape•Silkthread(#30)
ASSEMBLY1.Measurethenecklineofyourgownandtheentiretopwidthofthestomacher.Cutthelinentapetofitwithanadditional1-inch(2.5-cm)overlap.
2.Finelyhemtheshortendsofthelaceandthetape.
3.Attachthelacetothelinentapeusingafinerunningstitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Takesmalltucksasyougotogive
dimensionandallowthetuckertocurvearoundtheneckline.
4.Laythetuckerintothenecklineofthegownandattachusingbighemstitches.Makesureyousewthroughonlytheliningofthegown.Withstomacher-frontgowns,attachthetuckeralongthesidesandbackofthenecklineonthegownonly,leavingalengthofthetuckerfreeononeside.Thislengthshouldapproximatelymatchthewidthofyourstomachertopedge.Oncedressed,pullthislooseendacrossthetopofthestomachertotheoppositesideofthegown,tuckingthetapeedgetotheinsideandpinninglightlytoholdthepieceinplace.
HowtoGetDressedandWearYourSacquewithStyle
ASSEMBLY1.Startwithyourshift,stockingsandshoeson.Putonyourunder-petticoat,laceupyourstaysandifyouhaveapocket,tieitonaroundyourwaist.
2.Putonyourhoops:tiethebacktapesatcenterbackandthefronttapesoffcenterwiththebowhookedunderyourstays.Adjustasneededuntilthehoopsarepositionedcorrectlyonyourhips.Tiethetapesatthekneesacrossthebackandfrontloosely—theseshouldn’tbepulling,butdon’tskipthem,astheyarevitaltokeepingthehoopsfromfoldingupwhenyousit.
3.Putonthepetticoatoveryourhead.Tiethebacktapestothefrontandofftotheside,thentiethefronttapestothecenterback.
4.Ifyouhavechosentowearacapthisfineday,putitonnow,pinningitintoplaceoneachside.
5.Next,pinyourstomachertothestays,matchingthetopedgeofthestomachertothetopofyourstays.
6.Putonyourgown,overlappingthefrontedgesofthegownoverthesidesofthestomacher.Pinthefrontedgesofthegowntotheedgesofthestomacherundertherufflessothepinsarehidden.Ifyourgownisabitlooseortightafterpinningthefrontedges,adjustthetiesinthebodicebackliningforasmoothfit.
7.Pullthetailofthelacetuckeracrossthebust,tuckingunderthetopedgeofthestomacher.Pinatthecenterandoppositesidetosecurethetucker.
8.Ifyou’rewearinganapron,putitonnow.Youmaychoosetotuckthecenterfrontoftheapronbeneaththebottomedgeofthestomacher,butoverthestomacherisalsoaccurate.Pullthetiesthroughthepocketslitsandtiebehindyourback,underthebackpleatsofthegown.Youmayneedanextrasetofhandsforthis.
Timetoturnheadsatcourt!
CHAPTERFOUR
TheItalianGown,1770s-1790s
INSPIREDBYCUTOFWOMEN’SCLOTHESDIAGRAMXXII
TheItaliangown,orItaliannight-gown,istheEnglishnameforthefitted gownwith two to four pieces in the back and the separateskirt attached at thewaist.1 Remember the EnglishGown (here)?Though long tagged with just one label, these gowns are not thesame.While the English gown evolves early on from themantua,theItaliangownappearstohavemadeitsdebutaround1776.From the number of extant Italian gowns that survive today, itappears that the Italian gown completely overtook the Englishgowninpopularity.EvenbookslikeTheNewBathGuideandperiodnewspapers implicate that the Italian gown is equal to, andeventually replaced, the sacque gown for full dress in the 1780sand spawned many a 1790s gown too.2 Even though earlyreferences to this gown involve theupper social class, the Italiangown is suitable for every social level, and can be made out ofeverytypeoffabric,fromworstedwooltosilksatin.3
Finally, therewere twomajor aesthetic shifts coincidingwith theItalian gown in the late 1770s and early 1780s that affectedwomen’sfashionfortherestofthecentury.First,wehavetheshiftfrom wide side hoops to large and full false rumps. While earlyItaliangownscouldbewornwithhoops,theyarebestsuitedforafashionablefalserump,asbothstyletrendsseemtoappeararoundthesametime.4Next,sleevestylesandlengthsforwomen’sgownsdiversified. Inthischapter,wedemonstratethe“split”sleeveatafashionableforearmlength,whileinstructionsforfull-length,two-piecesleevescanbefoundonpg143.
Gown,c.1780,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,1976.146a,b
RobeàlaFrançaise(FabricDetail),c.1770,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.2007.211.718
Robeàl’Anglaise(Detail),1770–1780,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.57.24.8a-b
OURCHOICESFORTHEITALIANGOWNPrintedcottonswerealltheragethroughoutmostoftheeighteenthcentury,includingtheearly1780s,whenthisstyleofItaliangownwastrendy.Forourthirdhistoricfiberwe’vechosenalightweightprintedcottonthatiscloseinstyletoexamplesfromthe1780s.Inthischapter,youwillalsoseeasilkpetticoatleveledoverasplitbumpairedwithourprintedcottongown.Thoughitmightseemoddtoourmodern eyes, colorful printed cottonswere expensive in the eighteenthcentury, and these two fibers were commonly paired.Whilematchingprintedcottonpetticoatsareanexpectedchoice,acolorful,contrastingsilkpetticoat isanexcellentwaytopickupthecolor in the flowersofyourcottongownandtoencouragethatfull-skirtedsilhouette.However,pairingaprintedcottonpetticoatwithasilkgownorjacketdoesn’tquitefit the dominant eighteenth-century aesthetic. Avoid this combination
unlessyouhavesoliddocumentationtobackupyourchoices.Withtheriseoflargefalserumps,weseealotoffabricintheskirtsofItalian gowns, often up to a 120-inch (3-m) hem. Focusing all of thatfabric in the back creates the fashionable fullness over the false rumpandmakestyinguptheskirtsevenmorefluffy.However,thickerfabricsmaywantforlessvolume—bothlooksareaccurate.Lastly,onourItaliangownyouwillseenotrim.Yep,notrim!Thoughnot a hard-and-fast rule, many primary references depict this populardresswithminimalornotrim,andthefluffcomesinotherforms—theapron, the cap, the tucker and sleeve ruffles, each included in thischapter.Gown trims,of course, areup toyou,butwhateveryoudo—andwecannotstressthisenough—donotpinkyourcotton!Don’tdoit!Cottons, historic and modern, are not woven tightly enough to pinkwithout the fabrics raveling terribly, and extant cotton gowns simplydon’t show pinked self-fabric trim. If you want to add trim to yourcottongown,westronglyencourageyoutohemtheedges.
PRINTEDCOTTONDO’SANDDON’TS5,6A beautiful floral-printed cotton is one of the most beloved andrecognizable textiles of the eighteenth century. We all lust after thatperfectprintedchintz,butthepursuitofanaccurateeighteenth-centuryprintcanbeamurkyflowerswampofconfusion.Notallmodernfloralcottonsarecreatedequal.Thevastmajorityofprintedcottonsavailablearetotallywrongforthisperiod.Ittakesskillandknowledgetospotaneighteenth-century-appropriate printed cotton, so study, study, studythoseoriginalgownstotrainyoureye.Hereareourguidelinesforhuntingthatperfectprintedfloralcotton.
Colors=Cash.Themorecolorsinaprintedcotton,themoreexpensiveitwas.Eachcolorrequiredadifferentmordantandaspecialapplication,whichmeantseriouscashforenoughyardageforagown.Someprintedcottonsweremoreexpensivethansilk!Block Printing. Most eighteenth-century prints were block printedratherthanrollerprinted,whichwasnotinventeduntilthe1790s.Blockprintingcreatesauniquelook,sometimesappearingquitesloppy.
Scale. Printed cottonsweremanufactured for varioususes. Large-scaleprints are often earlier, intended for large, early eighteenth-centuryhooped gowns or furniture. Smaller prints became popular after 1750withthechangingsilhouette.KeepItNatural.Whilewhitegroundswerearguablythemostcommonforprintedcottons,andthesafestchoiceforcostumerstoday,youdoseedark brown, Turkey red and blue grounds too. Pastel backgrounds areuncommon.Generally,lookforcolorsthatcanbeachievedwithnaturaldyes.Reds,blues,purplesandyellowswerecommonforflowers.Stemsandleaveswereachievedwithgreen,blackandbrown.Notethatcolorslike purple were caustic in the eighteenth century and turned brownvery quickly—what might appear to be a brown flower could haveoriginallybeenpurple.
Whattoavoidatthefabricstore:
1.IfitlooksVictorian,walkaway.Cabbageroseshavenoplaceintheeighteenthcentury.
2.Avoidtoile.That“toile”fabricthatweallthinkofas“classicallyGeorgian”comesfromcopperplateprintinginventedinthe1750s.Itwasmostcommonlyusedforhomeinteriors,notclothing.
3.Technology.Iftheprintlookslikeitisinspiredbysilkorwooldamaskorjacquard,leaveitbehind.Whatworkedforweavingdidnotalwaysworkforprintedcottons.
4.Exercisecautionwithacertainamountofforgiveness.Thatcarefullyreproducedprintedcottonfromamuseumisasafebet,butthatdoesnotmeanit’sperfect.Beawareofwhatmightnotbecorrect.
Overwhelmed?Fearnot!Printedcottonstripes,polkadotsandsomebasicgeometricshapesarealsoaccuratefortheeighteenthcenturyandareeasilyfoundinyourlocalfabricstores!
1780sUndiesTheFalseRump
Thefirstreferencestofalserumps,orcorkrumps,seemtobeginaround1776, which interestingly coincides with the rise in popularity of theItalian gown.7 These false rumps came in a variety of shapes anddesigns.We’vechosentocreateasplitrump,whichcleverlyallowsthelong center back point of the Italian gown to lie flat to the body andcreates that beautiful and suggestive silhouette thatwas so popular inthisdecade.Ourfalserumpisstuffedwithfeatherdownfromanoldpillow,areadilyavailablematerial today,butgroundcorkappears tobe the stuffingofchoiceintheeighteenthcentury.Bothareaccurateoptions.Aswith all historic silhouettes, proportion is key. For this particularlytricky understructure, we’ve analyzed original fashion prints andportraiture versus satirical prints.We found the normal proportion forthebumtoberoughlydoublethesizeofthewaistwhilesatiricalprintslike“TheBumShop”8showthehipsatalmosttriplethewaist.Thishasresultedinasimpleformulathatshouldcreatetheperfect,flatteringandaccuratesizeforyourfalserump.
MATERIALS•1–2yards(1–2m)tightlywovenlinenorcotton•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)cottonorlinentape•Thread•1oldfeatherthrowpillow
ASSEMBLY1.Beforeconstructingyourfalserump,determineyourwaist-to-bumsize.Here’sourexample:Waist—28inches(71.1cm)Hip(Full)—40inches(101.6cm)28x2=56;56–40=16
2.Yourfalserumpneedstoadd16inches(40.6cm)offullnesstoyourhips.Usethegriddedpattern(here)asaguideandadjustasneeded.
3.Hem(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebottomandsidesoftheskirtwitha½-inch(1.3-cm)hem.Ifthereisagoodselvageonthesidesyoucanskipit.Pleattheskirttohalfofthewaistmeasurement(e.g.,14inches[35.6cm]),andbasteintoplace.Thesedonotneedtobeprettyoreven.Noonewillseethem.
4.Withrightsidestogether,backstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])therumppillowstogether,leavingthetopopen.Clip,turnandpresstheseamssmooth.Youshouldnowhave2rumppillows.
5.Pleattheunderpartofeachrumppillowtofithalfthewidthofthe
skirt.Keepthepillowsflushtothesidesoftheskirtsanddonotworryifthereisabitofagap(¼to½inch[6mmto1.3cm])betweenthebumpillowsatthecenterback.Pinthepillowsinplace,leavingtheupperpartofthepillowopenandfreesoyoucanstufftherumplater.
6.Hemstitchtheskirtandunderrumppillowstothebottomhalfofthewaisttape(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotsecuretheupperpartofthepillows.
7.Nowit’stimetostuffthebum.Onyourmodelordressform,stuffthebumpillows,measuringthenewhipcircumferenceasyougo.Rememberthatpetticoatsandgownskirtswilladdmoregirth,sodon’toverstuffyourpillows.
8.Pleattheopenedgeofthebumpillowstomatchtheundersideand
tacktotheskirt.Foldthewaistbandoverthetopofthefalserumpandhemstitchthewaistbandthroughalllayers(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
Done!
1780sSilkPetticoatovertheFalseRump
Petticoatsmadetofitoverunderstructuresarealittledifferentfromyouraverageall-one-lengthpetticoat.Whileyoucanpatternoutthispetticoatwithashapedtoptoaccommodatethecurveofthefalserump,wedemonstratehowyoucanfitandlevelpetticoatsonthebody,too.
MATERIALS•3yards(3m)of60”(152.4-cm)-widefabric—yardagewillvarydependingonfabricwidth,model’sheightandsizeoffalserump
•Silkthread(#30seamsandwaistbandand#50hemming)•3½+yards(3.5+m)¾–1”(1.9–2.5-cm)-widecottonorlinentape
ASSEMBLY1.Determinethepetticoatlengthaccordingtothefullnessofyourbackside.Overthemiddleofoneofthefalserumppillows,measuredowntojustbelowyourankle.Cutallyourpetticoatpanelsaccordingtothislength.
2.Stitchonesideseamofthepetticoatusingarunningbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])forselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges.Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslitandhemtheseedgestofinishthem.
3.Pleatthefrontandbackofthepetticoatatthewaist.Forthefront,beginwithaboxpleatabout4inches(10.1cm)wide,andcontinueknifepleatingtowardthesideseams.Fortheback,makeaninvertedboxpleatatthecenterback,thencontinuetheknifepleatsfacingthecenterbackonbothsides,whileworkingouttowardthesideseams.Leave½inch(1.3cm)seamallowanceontheunsewnside.
4.Basteacrossthefrontandbackwaistpleatstoholdthem.Leaveyourpinsinplacetohelpwiththefitting.
5.Stitchthesecondsideseam,usingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforrawedges.Leave10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)openatthetopforthepocketslit.Turnandhemtheedgesofthepocketslit.
6.Hemthepetticoatwitheithera¼-or½-inch(6-mmor1.3-cm)hem(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
7.Withyourmodelordressforminallunderpinningsandshoes,pullthepetticoatoverherheadandsituateitaroundherwaist.Tiethebackwaisttapesecurelyaroundthemodel’swaisttothefront,overthepleats,thenpullthepleatededgeofthepetticoatupwardtocreateanevenhem.Checkthehemwithyouryardstickasyougo,measuringfromhemtofloor.Whenthepetticoatislevel,pinittothewaisttape.Repeatthisonthefrontpetticoatpanel.Thissoundseasy,butit’snot.Ittakestimeandpatiencebuttheresultsarelovely.
8.Ontheoutsideofthepleatedpetticoatwaist,hemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebottomedgeofthetapeinplace,sewingthroughalllayersofthepetticoatpleats.Then,turnthetapefullytotheinsideandhemstitchthefreeedgeinplace.Repeatforthebackpanel.
1780sTheItalianGown
Italiangownswerefirstidentifiedwithfourbackpiecessewnincurvestocreateaflatteringlineforthewaist.Thisstylecanbemadewithjusttwobackpiecesaswell.Itisimportantthatyourmock-upbewell-fittedthroughthebackbeforecuttingandsewingthegownpieces.
MATERIALS•6–7yards(6–7m)fashionfabric•1–2yards(1–2m)linenlining•Silkorlinenthread(#30forgownconstructionand#50forskirthemonly,or60/2and80/2)
•1pieceof¼”(6-mm)-wideboning,thelengthofthecenterbackbodice
•5yards(5m)¼”(6-mm)-widetwilltape
BODICEANDFIRSTFITTINGBythemid-1770s,theseamedbackoftheItaliangownovertakesthepleatedbackoftheEnglishgowninpopularity.ThisseamingmadeuseofaspecificstitchingtechniquecalledtheEnglishstitch(here),acleverandefficientwaytostitchfouredgestogetherinonego,resultinginaveryfineandeasilyalterableseam.Readontolearnmoreaboutthisingeniousmantuamaker’stechnique.
1.Marktheseamallowanceontheliningforthecenterbackseam.
2.Measuredown¾to1inch(1.9to2.5cm)fromthetopofthenecklineandmarkwheretheeyeletfortheboningneedstogo.Thefinishedeyeletmustfacethebodywhenthepiecesaremadeupsothatyoucanremovetheboninglatertocleanthegown.Withanawl,maketheholefortheeyeletandwhipitopenusingthickordoubledthread.
3.Turnbacktheseamallowanceandstitchwithafinerunningstitchtocreatetheboningchannel(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
4.Onthetwocenterbackpieces,matchtherawedgesofthefashionfabrictothelining,wrongsidestogether,atthesidebackedgesandsmooth.Foldinandbastethecenterbackseamallowancesofthefashionfabric.Wrongsidestogether,laytheliningintositjustinsidethefashionfabricandbastethetwolayerstogether.Alsofoldandmatchthefashionfabricandseamallowanceforthetopnecklineedges.
5.Rightsidestogether,matchthetwocenterbackpiecesatthecenterbackseam.Pinthroughalllayers—twoliningsandtwofashionfabrics—startingatthetopandworkingdownward.Englishstitchthepiecestogetherinthesamedirectionasyoupinned(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Oncestitched,openthebackpiecesoutflatandpresstheseam.
6.Thesamemethodisusedtoattachthesidebackpiecestothecenterbackpieces.Followsteps4and5untiltheentirebackisconstructed.Donotbastetheremainingsideseamsontheback.Theyareimportantforfittingthebodice.Nowplacetheboningintothechannelsatthecenterbackseam.
7.Onthebodicefrontpieces,basteuptheseamallowanceatthewaist,centerfrontedgesandnecklineonyourfashionfabric,startingwhereyouplantoplacethefrontedgesoftheskirtandendingjustbelowtheshoulderstrapseam.
8.Withwrongsidestogether,matchthebodicefrontliningtotherawbodicefrontsideseamandarmscye.Smoothandpinthefabricstogether.Alongthebastededges,foldintheseamallowanceoftheliningtojustinsidethefashionfabric,pinandbaste.Finelyrunningstitchthetwolayerstogetheralongtheedge.Repeatonotherbodicepiece.
Triple-checkthatthelengthofthecenterfrontsmatch.Layonesideovertopoftheotherandsmoothitdowntoconfirmtheirlength.Youmightfindthateventhoughyoubastedthemthesame,onesidecameoutlongerthantheother.It’sthatweirdmagicofdressmaking—stuffgetsfunkywhenonthebias.
9.Turninandbastetheseamallowanceontheneckedgeoftheshoulderstrappieces.
10.Nowit’stimetofitthebodice.Withthemodelinallofherunderpinnings,pinthebackofthebodiceinplace,makingsurethatthecenterbacklineisstraightandeven.
11.Pinthefrontbodicepiecesintoplacewiththedesiredoverlapatcenterfront,makingsurethecenterfrontlineisstraightonthebody.
12.Pintheshoulderstrapsinplaceatthefront,thenpullovertheshoulderandpintothebackshoulderseamstoholdthebodiceinplace.Checkthatthewaistisstillinplace—don’tpullitupwhenfittingtheshoulderstraps!
13.Smooththefrontbodiceliningtowardtheback.Atthesideseams,pinchandpinthethreelayerstogether,leavingthefashionfabriconthebodicefree.Pinchandpinthesideseamsforasmooth,tightfit,workingbothsidesofthebodicesimultaneouslyandensuringthatnothingispulledaskew.
14.Adjustthefitatthefrontifneededandcontinuallycheckthewaistlengthandnecklinefit.Refertothetroubleshootingguideheretoworkoutanyissues.
1.Ifyoufindthatthebackofyourgownisstandingawayfromthebody,addawaisttie.Markthewaistonthecenterbackseamontheinsideofthebodiceandstitchanarrowtapeatjustthispoint.Thiscanbedoneatanytime.
15.Ifthenecklineistoohighorwibbly,youcaneasilyadjustitonthebody.Pickoutthebastingstitchesandrolltheseamallowancedownuntilyougettheshapeyouwant.
16.Intheback,turnunderthewaistedge,curvingdownintothecenterbackpoint.Pin.
17.Carefullyunpinthefrontclosureofthegown,leavingtheshoulderstrapsandsidebackseamspinned,andremovethegownfromthemodel.
FINISHINGTHEBODICEANDATTACHINGTHESKIRTSAgaindepartingfromitsoldersistertheEnglishgown,theskirtsoftheItaliangownwereveryfull,finelypleatedandsurprisinglyroughlyfinished.TheskirtsofmanyextantItaliangownsshowrawedgesontheinside,merelyfoldeddownandsplitatthecenterback.Inthissection,wedemonstratethehowandwhyofthistechnique.
1.Atthesideseams,hemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theliningthroughall3layers.Presstheseamopenandtrimoutanyexcessseamallowanceleavingabout½inch(1.3cm).
2.Nowsmooththebodicefrontfashionfabricoverthelining,foldingunderandpinningtheedgeofthefashionfabricoverthesideseamtocreateanelegantcurvethatmirrorsthebackseams.Repeatfortheoppositeside,matchingthecurvesandplacementsobothseamsaresymmetrical.Prickstitchthesidebackseamsthroughalllayersusinga⅛-inch(3-mm)squarestitch.
3.Insidethebodice,hemstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thefrontshoulderstrapliningtothebodice.Donotstitchthebackseamyet.
4.Atthewaistedge,turnundertheseamallowanceoffashionfabricandliningtogetherandbaste.Whilerawedgesonthewaistseamareperiodaccurate,youmayinsteadwishtofinishthisedge.Todoso,turnunderandbastethefashionfabricandliningseparately,matchingtheedges,andhemstitchorrunningstitchtogether.
5.Seamalltheskirtpanelstogetherwithamantuamaker’sseamforrawedgesorarunningbackstitchforselvageedges.Hemthefrontedgesoftheskirt(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
6.Withthebodicelaidopenflat,measurestraightacrossthewaistfromthemarkonthesidefrontofthebodicewheretheskirtwillattachtoitscorrespondingpointontheoppositesideofthebodice.Thisisthemeasurementyouwillbepleatingtheskirtinto.Dividebytwoandworkeachsideoftheskirtinsections.
7.Findthecenteroftheskirt—usuallyaseam,butnotalways—and
knifepleattheskirtsonbothsidestowardthecenterback.Keepthevisiblepartofthepleatsmall,around¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm).Pinasyougoandcontinuallycheckpleatsagainstthewaistmeasurement.Verticallybastethepleatedskirtstogetheratthetoptohold.
8.Laythewaistedgeofthebodiceovertopoftheskirt,wrongsidetorightside,andpin.Sliceoropenthecenterbackseamoftheskirtatthetopwherethebodicepointoverlapsit.Thishelpsthepleatsflareoutcorrectlyandcanmakethefittingprocesseasier.
Because of the how the bodice is constructed, skirts on Italiangownsarecommonlymountedtothebodicewiththeinteriorrawedgesfoldeddowntowardthehem.Thispreventsbulkatthewaistwhile the uncut fullness adds volume to the top of the skirts.Additionally, this method allows the gown to easily be pickedapartandremadelaterwithoutanylossofyardage.
9.Double-checktheseamallowanceoftheskirtonbothsides.Ifyouhaveatrainedskirt,youmightneedtopulltheskirtuphigheratthesidestoaccommodateforthelength.
10.Appliquestitchthebodicetotheskirtfromtheoutside(8to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Catchallthelayersandallthepleats.Thiswillbeslowandabittedious,butstickwithit.Oncesewn,foldandpresstheedgeoftheskirtdowntowardthehem.
THESLEEVESANDFINALFITTINGFormostoftheeighteenthcentury,thestandardthree-quarter-lengthsleevedominatedwomen’sfashion.Inthe1780s,though,sleeveoptionscomealive.Whilethethree-quartersleevewouldneverlosepopularity,full-lengthandforearm-lengthsleevesrosetomeetthem.Sleeveconstructiondiversifiedaswell,withsingle-piece,splitandtwo-piecesleevesappearing.Inthissection,wewillconstructaforearm-length“split”sleeve,shapedattheelbow,usinganingeniousseamingmethod,anddemonstratefittingthesleevesintheeighteenth-centurymanner.
1.Hereisathirdmethodofsleeveconstructionthatwearereallyfondof:foldboththeliningandfashionfabricinhalflengthwise,rightsidestogether.Laythematopeachother,sandwichingthesleeveheadstogetherandmatchingtherawedges.Backstitchallfourlayerstogether(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Leavetheelbowdartfree.
2.Stickyourarmthroughthetwofashionfabriclayersandpullthesleeveright-sideout.Thiscleverlyleavestheseamallowancesandwichedintheotherlayersofthefabric,seamingbothlayerswithjustonelineofstitching.
3.Putthegownonthemodeloverallunderpinnings.Pinthebodice
closedatcenterfront.Doublecheckthefitofthebodiceandgownskirtsandmakenoteofanyadjustmentsneeded.
4.Fittheshoulderstrapsintheback.Pullthemtightovertheshoulderandpinsecurelyatthebackshoulderseam,keepingtheirangleandplacementonthebackassymmetricalaspossible.Youmayneedtosetthemfartherinorouttoachieveawell-fitnecklinebothinfrontandback.Ifyoufeelaneedtostitchtheshoulderstrapsbeforefittingthesleeves,removethegownfromthemodelandhem-stitchtheshoulderstraplininginplacefromtheinside,thenputthegownbackonthemodelforthesleevefitting.
5.Slidethesleeveupthearmandpinattheshoulderpoint.Startingatthefrontandworkingaroundtheunderarmtowardtheback,pinthesleeveintoplacetryingyourbesttocatchthegownbutnottheshift,staysorperson.
6.Atthefrontunderarmcrease,smooththesleeveupovertheshoulder,workingtowardtheback.Ifyouhaveanyexcessfabric,takeatuckonthebacksideofthesleeve,rightbehindthetopoftheshoulder.
7.Pinchuptherawedgesofthesleevedarttofitthemodel’selbow.
Don’tfallvictimtothe“sexybuttootightsleeve.”Makesurethemodelcanbendherarmtotakeadrinkofwater.Ifonesleeveisabitlongerthantheother,markwhereitneedstobeshortenedandmakethatadjustmentoffthebody.Thissometimeshappensinthefittingprocess.Oncefinished,removethegownfromthemodel,leavingthesleeveandshoulderstrappinsinplace.
8.Onthesleeveunderarm,verycarefullyadjustthepinstoverticalpinning.Ontheinside,markthestitchlineinpencil,makingsurebotharmsmatch.Backstitchtheunderarminplace(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm])throughalllayers.
9.Ontheoutside,stitchthetopofthesleeveinplaceovertheshoulderstrapwithlargebackstitches.Laythefashionfabricshoulderstrapinplace,lininguptheseamallowanceontheneckedgeofthestrap,andpinningandsmoothingovertowardtheshoulder.Carefullyturnundereachedgeandpininplacetocompletelycoveralltherawedges.Takeyourtimewiththis.
10.Ontheoutside,appliquestitchtheshortedgeofthestrapatthefrontshoulderstrapseam.Thenprickstitch⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)overthetopoftheshoulder.Ontheoutside,appliquestitchthebackoftheshoulderstrapinplace.Finally,edgehemorfinelyrunningstitchtheshoulderstraparoundtheneckline.Oncesatisfiedwiththesleeve,trimouttheexcessunderarmfabricinsidethebodice,leaving¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)seamallowance.
11.Releasejustthefashionfabricfromthepinnedelbowdart.Keeptheliningpinnedandbackstitchalongthisseamline.Trimandpresstheseamallowanceopenortooneside.
12.Ontheoutsideofthesleeve,smoothonesideofthefashionfabricovertheliningdartandpin.Turnundertheseamallowanceontheremainingfashionfabricedge,lapitoverthedartseam,coveringallrawedges,andprickstitch(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm])tofinishthedart.
13.Foldupthesleevecuffhemtotheinside,baste,thenhemstitchinplace(8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
14.It’stimetofinishthegown.Marktheskirtfrontlength.Thisiseasilydoneonthemodel,butanapproximatelengthwilldo.Aimforacoupleofinchesoffthefloortojustabovetheankle,dependingonyourpreference.Withtheskirtlaidoutopenandflat,drawastraightlinefromthismarkdowntotherawhematthesidebackofyourskirt.Ifyourskirthaspocketslits,usetheseasareference,ifyoudon’thavepocketslits,it’sokaytoeyeballitusingyourskirtpanelsandreference.Justmakesurethatthelinesaresymmetrical.Cutalongthislinetocreateatrain.Ifyoudon’twantatrain,youcanskipthispartbyjustmakingsureyourskirtsareevenwhenyousettheskirttothebodice.Oncesatisfied,basteandhemtheskirtwithabout8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm].
15.Ontheinsidewherethesideseamsofthebodiceliningmeetthewaistedge,stitchanarrowtapeoneachsideabout12to16inches(35to41cm)long.Withtheskirtlaidoutopenandflat,determinetheplacementofyourskirtties.Thiswillvarydependingonthefullnessandlengthofyourskirt.Ourtieswereplaced27inches(69cm)fromtheskirtfrontedgesand13inches(33cm)upfromthe
hem.Experimentwithplacementtofindthesweetspot.Totietheskirtup,matchthewaisttieandskirttieoneachsideandtieinabow.Thetiesmaybepulleduphighorleftlooserfordifferentlooks.Thisisjustonewaythatyoucanattachtapestoyourskirtstogatherthemup.Thereweremanydifferentwaystoachievethislookintheeighteenthcentury,includingapplyingbuttonsontheexteriorwaistandusingribbonstogatheruptheskirt.
AnItaliangownwiththeskirtpulledupisnotarobeàlapolonaise.Therobeàlapolonaiseisanentirelydifferentstyleexhibitingacutawaybodiceoftencutall-in-onelikeaman’sfrockcoat.Theywerewornlooseatthefrontanddrawnupattheback,inlongorshortform.9
Done! Congratulations! You are now the proud owner of a fabulousItaliangown!
Early1780sCap
Thiscap isbasedonseveralprintspublished in theearly1780sand istypical of the large, decorative styles in this decade. Proportion isimportant with caps and hair, which means you have to take thehairstyleintoconsiderationwhenmakingacap.Findingthebalancecanbedifficult,butwethinkthiscapisjustright.It’sacutecapthatisbigandfluffybutnotoverwhelming.10,11
MATERIALS•2yards(2m)cottonvoile/muslin,silkorganzaorfineIrishlinen•Silkorcottonthread(#30forgathersandseamsand#50forhems)•20”(50.8cm)of¼”(6-mm)-widefinecottontapeorcandlewicking
ASSEMBLY1.Usethepatternhereandcutthefabric.Lightlyspraystarchandironallthecappieces.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onallsidesofthebandandrufflesofthecapandbaste.Foldthis¼inch(6mm)inhalfagaintocreatea⅛-inch(3-mm)-widenarrowhem.Hemstitchinplacewithaminimumof12stitchesperinch(2.5cm).
2.Pleatupthefirstruffletofithalfoftheband,andpinintoplace.Withrightsidestogether,whipstitchtheruffletotheband,catchinginallthelayersofthepleats.Repeatthisfortheothersideandthecaulruffles.Oncealltherufflesareattached,starchandpresstheseamsopen,andthenfoldthebandinhalftofindthecenterandmarkwith
apin.
3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)onalloftheedgesofthecaulandbaste.Foldthecaulpieceinhalflengthwisetofindthecenterandmarkjustabovethebastedseamatthebottomofthecaul.Piercethefabricwithanawlatthismark,thenstitchtheeyeletopenwith#30thread.Whencomplete,pokewiththeawlagaintofurtheropenandshapetheeyelet.
4.Atoptheturnedandbastedseamallowance,securethecandlewickingtothebaseofthecaulpieceoneachendusingafewstrongbackstitches.Pulltheexcesscandlewickingthroughtheeyelet,usinganawlorpintopushthewickingthrough.
5.Foldupthestraightbottomedgeofthecaulpieceoverthecandlewicking.Hem,makingsurenottocatchthewickinginthestitches.Continuetohemtherestofthecaulusingthenarrowhemmethodshownhere.
6.Followingthepattern,markwherethegatheringshouldstartoneachsideofthecaulofthecapwithapin.
7.Foldthecaulinhalflengthwisetofindthetopcenterpointandmarkwithapin.Looselywhipoverthecurvedhemmededgeofthecaulfromonesidetothecenterpoint,about4to6stitchesperinch(2.5cm).Pullupthisthreadtogatherhalfofthecaultoapproximatelyhalfthelengthoftheband.Repeatfortheothersideofthecaul.
8.Pinthecaultothebandwithrightsidestogether,matchingthecentermarks.Whipstitchthetwopiecestogether,catchingeverybumpofthegathers.Whencomplete,openuptheseamandpress.
9.Smooththecaulruffleoverthecaulandlooselytackitdownateverypleattokeeptherufflefromfloppingover.Irontheseamssoeverythingliessmoothlyandstarchasneeded.
10.Attachyourdecorationtoyourcapwithsmalltackingstitches.Inthenextprojectyouwilllearnhowtomakepoufsandbowstogoonthiscap.
Done!Nowlet’sworkondecoratingyournewcap!
1780sPoufsandBows
We’vedecoratedour1780scapwitharowofprestitchedpoufswithabowat thecenter.This typeofcapdecorationcanbeused throughoutmuch of the century, and the skills learned here can be applied innumerous ways. Try these techniques on caps, hats, gown trims andwhereverelseyoufancysomepoufsandbows.ThesilkribboninthistutorialwasgraciouslyprovidedbyBritexFabrics,SanFrancisco.
MATERIALS•1–3yards(1–3m)silkribbon•Silkthread(#30or#50)
ASSEMBLY1.Let’sstartwiththepoufs.Firsthemthestartingendoftheribbon.
2.Markyourribbonatevenintervals,thenstitchalongthesemarksacrossthewidthoftheribbonwithalooserunningstitch.Pullthethreadtogathertheribbon,tackstitchandknotoffyourthread.
3.Repeatuntilyouhavearowofpoufsthatfitthebandofyourcap.Beforeyoumakeyourlastpouf,quicklyhemtheremainingendoftheribbon.
4.Whileweonlyaddone4-loopbowatthecenterofthecap,youcanaddmore.Tolearnhowtomakea4-loopbow,refertothe1740sSimpleStrawHathere.
5.Laythedecorationonthecapandsecureitinplacewithacoupleoftackingstitches.
Done!
1780sSilk-Covered“Brain”Hat
Fluffy,puffyandnever stuffy.The silk-coveredhat in this tutorialwashighlyfashionableforthe1770sand1780s.Depictedinblack,whiteoreven multicolored, this hat presents almost limitless variations andoptions for creative expression. Have fun and don’t be scared toexperimentwithsize,color,textureandtrimmings.
MATERIALS•Shallowcrownstrawhat(approximately15”[38cm]diameterorless)
•2yards(2m)silktaffeta•2yards(2m)silkorganza•Silkthread(#30forconstructionand#50forhemming)•Assortedfeathers,ribbonsandtrims•Hatpin(optional)
ASSEMBLY1.Measurethediameterofthestrawhatcrowninteriorandcuttwosquaresofthesilktaffetaapproximately4inches(10.2cm)larger.Centeronesquarepieceoverthecrowninteriorandworkitintotheconcaveshape,smoothing,stretchingandpinningasyougo.Stitchinplacewithlargebastingstitches.Cutawaytheexcess,leavingsomeseamallowanceforlater.
2.Placethestrawhatbaseonadoublelayerofthesilktaffetaandtracearoundtheedgeofthebrim.Add1inch(2.5cm)seamallowanceandcutoutthecircles.Youwillhavetwocircles.
3.RoughlymarkthecentercrownwithanX.CutopentheX,thencontinuetoclipoutwardsfromcenterwhileworkingthesilkpieceoverthecrown.Clipasneeded,alittleatatime,toreleaseanywrinklesortensionsothatthesilkpiecesmoothlyfitsdownoverthecrown.Pinasyougo,andbastethesilktothehataroundthebaseofthecrown.Oncethesilkissmooth,trimoffexcessfabricthatmightflapoverthecrown,andcutanyextranotchesyoumightneedforthatsmoothfit.
4.Nextsmooththesilkoverthestrawbasetowardtheouteredgeofthebrim.Turntheseamallowanceofthesilkovertheedgeofthestrawbase.Donotoverstretchthis—ithelpstorollthebrimovertheedgeofatablewhilepinningtokeepthesilkfrompullingthebrimup.Oncepinnedintoplace,bastethesilkinplacearoundtheedgeofthebrim.
5.Thisnextstepwasdonebecauseourstrawbasewasalightcolorandwedidnotwantittoshowthroughtheblacksilkgauze.Ifyouareusingahatbasethatisclosetothecolorofthesilk,youcanskipthispart.Placethesecondsquareofsilktaffetafromstep1overthecrownandroughlypindownaroundthebase.Markthesilkaroundthebaseofthecrown,adding½to1inch(1.3to2.5cm)seamallowance.Removethetaffetafromthecrown,layflat,thencutoutthecircleyoumarked.
6.Reapplythistaffetacircletothecrown,pinningatthecenter,thensmoothingthefabricoverthesidesofthecrownandpinningatthebase.Workaroundthecircle,pinninguntilitistotallysmoothacrossthetop.Don’tworryabouttherawedgesonthispiece,astheywillbecoveredbythesilkgauze“brain”bit.
7.Stitcharoundthebaseofthecrowntosecurethesilkcoveringtothehat.
8.Nowthefunpart:it’stimetomakethebrain!Measureandcutyoursilkorganzaabout24to30inches(61to76.2cm)longandselvagetoselvage.Foldthisorganzapieceinhalf,matchingrawedges,soitisabout12to16inches(30.5to40.7cm)high.Bastethelayerstogether,creatingalongtube.Donotpressthefoldededge!
9.Onthefoldedorganza,quarterthelengthandmarkwithchalkorpins.Repeatthissteponthebrimofthehat,markingabout1½to2inches(3.8to5cm)outfromthebaseofthecrown.
10.Applytheorganzatothehat,withtherawedgefacingthecrown,matchingupthequarterpoints,andsecurewithpins.Therewillbelotsofexcessfabricbetweenthepinnedquarters.Pleatthisexcessdownandpintothebrimroughlyalongthat1½to2-inch(3.8-to5-cm)circleawayfromthebaseofthecrown.Thesepleatsdon’thavetobefancy—justafewbetweeneachquarterwilldothejob.Makesureyoucatchalllayersofthepleatasyoupin.Stitchtheorganzatothebrimwithrunningstitches.
11.Pulltheorganzatubeupwardtowardthemiddleofthecrown.Finelyrunningstitchtheselvageedgesofthetubetogethertocloseitoff.
12.Beginthe“brain”puffsbypullingthetwolayersoforganzaapartatthetop,foldedoveredge.Atintervals—quartersorfifths—pulltheinnerlayeroforganzadowntothecentertopofthecrownandpin.
13.Workfromthetopofthecrownoutward,pushingtheorganzadowntothecrownandpinningatanypointthatfeelstoopuffy.Futzasneeded,butavoidbeingtooparticularwiththeplacement.There’snorightwaytodothis—pinandadjustuntilyoufeelthebrainiswell-balancedandbrainyenoughtosuityourtaste.Thedesiretomakethisbitsymmetricalishumannature,butstriveforanatural,uncontrivedlook.Takeasmuchtimeasyouneedtobrainthroughthis.
14.Nowyougettosewthose30-some-oddpinsyoujuststabbedintothecrowninplace.Withalong,well-waxedthread,tack-stitchateachpin.Thereisnoneedtoknotandcutthethread—movefromonepointtothenextontheinsideuntilcomplete.Thisistediousasheckandyouwillstabyourself.Ifyoudon’tbleedduringthisproject,it’snotdoneyet.
15.Timetotrimthehat.Anorganzaribbonlooksjollygoodaroundthebrimofabrainhat.Youmayusepremadeorganzaribbonabout2inches(5cm)wide,ormakeyourown.Dothisbydoublingthecircumferenceofyourhatbrimtofindthelengthforyourorganzaribbon—ourhatwas37.5inches(95.3cm)around,sowecutourorganzastrip75inches(190.5cm)longby2inches(5cm)wide.Finelyrollhemyourorganza(seehere).
16.Pintheorganzaribbonaroundthehatbrimbyquarters.Thenpleatorgatheronequarteratatime,workingaroundthebrimandpinningthepleatsorgathersinplacealongtheedge.Prickstitchtheorganzaribbontriminplace,makingsuretocatcheverypleat.
17.Onceyourtrimisattached,itistimetoaddtheunder-brimlining.Laythesecondlargecircleoftaffetacutinstep2atoptheundersideofthebrim,pinningitinplace.
18.Aroundthesilkbrim,clipintotheseamallowance,thenturntotheinsideandpinaroundthebrimedge.Appliquestitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theedgeoftheunder-brimsilktotheedgeofthesilkrolledoverthebrim.Donotgothroughtheentirehat,youjustneedtocatchthesilkalongtheedge.
19.Ontheinteriorcircle,clipintotheseamallowance,turnunderandpintothecrownlining.Appliquestitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theturnededgeoftheunder-brimliningtothecrownlining.
20.Forthehatties,chooseprefinishedribbonorhemtheedgesofsilktaffetatomakeyourown.Thetiesshouldbelongenoughtoeasilytieinabowatthenapeofyourneck.Oursareabout26inches(66cm)longand2inches(5cm)wide.Appliquestitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])theribbontiestotheundersideedgeofthehatbrim.
21.Youmaynowchoosetodecoratethehatevenmore!Trybows,feathers,flowersorcockadestofinishoffyourfashionablenewhat!
Early1780sRuffledApron
Thefluffy,rufflyapronsoftheearly1780saretrulypiecesofjoy.Theyaresofuntowear,withgreattexture,movementandwhimsythatreallytakeanensembletothenextlevel.Addthisaprontoyouroutfitwiththematching cap, neck tucker or handkerchief and elbow ruffles and youwilllooklikeyoujustwalkedoutofaneighteenth-centuryportrait.
MATERIALS•2yards(2m)cottonvoile•2yards(2m)½”(1.3-cm)widecottonorlinentape•Silkthread(#30forgathersandtopstitchingand#50forhemming)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern(here).
2.Hemthreeedgesoftheapronwithafinerunningstitch.Leavethetopoftheapronunsewn.Setaside.
3.Next,connectandhemtherufflesonallsides.Seamtheedgesselvagetoselvagewithfinerunningstitches(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])andpressopen.Forthehem,youcaneitherusethenarrowhem(here)orrollhem(here)techniqueoncottonvoile.
4.Afteralltheruffleedgesarehemmedandseamed,foldoverthetopoftheruffle1to1½inch(2.5to6.4cm),andwhipstitchoverthefold,workinginsectionsof12inches(30.5cm)atatimeandgatheringthemdownto6inches(15.2cm).Tackstitchateachintervalandcarryontothenext.Continuewhipgatheringuntilyou’vegathered
uptheentireruffle,thensteamandfingerpresstheruffleopen.
5.Pinthegatheredlineoftheruffleoverthehemmededgeoftheapron,easingitaroundthecurvesandleavingabout¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)unruffledatthetop.Prickstitchintoplacethroughthegatheredlinetohidethestitches.
6.Markthecenterofthewaistedgewithapin.Using#30thread,stitch3linesofevenrunningstitchesforstrokegathers,stoppingatthecenteroftheapron.Thenstartnewlinesatthecenterandworktowardtheotherendoftheapron.Gatheruptothedesiredwidthbetween13and16inches(33and40.6cm),anchorthetailstoapinand“stroke”thegatherstoeventhemout.
7.Applyhalfthewidthofthewaisttapeoverthestroke-gatheredwaistedge.Hemstitchalongthetapeedge,catchingeverybumpofthestrokedgathers.Foldovertheremaininghalfofthetapetotheinsideandrepeatthestep.Checkandadjustthegathersasyougo.Youwanttokeepthemasevenlyspacedaspossible.Donotrushthis;itisworthittotakeyourtime.
8.Oncefinished,starchandirontheapronandrufflestokeeptheirshapeandvolume.
1780sNeckTuckerandElbowRuffles
FortheGeorgianwoman,havingsomethingaroundthenecklineofhergownwasjustasimportantasputtingonhershift.Whileyoucanwearthisstyleofgownwithalargeandfullneckhandkerchief(anditlooksfabulouswhenyoudo!),havingacottonvoilesetofapron,tuckerandrufflesisnotonlyeasybutextremelyfashionable.Whetheryouchoosethekerchieforthetucker,donotgooutwithoutoneortheother.It’sacardinalruleofbeingagorgeousGeorgianlady!
MATERIALS•¼–½yard(0.25–0.5m)cottonmuslinorvoile,silkorganzaorfinelinencutintostripsabout1½”(3.8-cm)wide
•Silkthread(#30forattachingpiecesand#50forhemming)•2–3yards(2–3m)½”(1.3-cm)-widecottonorlinentape
1.Cutthetapetofitthenecklineofyourgown.Hemtherawendsofthetape.
2.Joinyourstripsofvoiletomakeonelengthdoublethelengthofyourgown’snecklinemeasurement.Joinpiecesselvagetoselvagewithafinewhipstitch,orfinehemeachendbeforewhippingtheseams.
3.Next,narrowhemorrollhemthelongandshortedgesofthetucker.
4.Whipoveronelongedgeofthetuckerandgatheruptofitthetape.Withrightsidestogether,pintheruffletothetapeandwhipstitchittotheedge,makingsuretocatcheverybump.Opentheruffleandtapeoutflatandpressjusttheseamifneeded.
5.Laythetuckerintotheinteriornecklineofthegown,pinandtackitintoplaceusinglargehemstitches.Makesuretosewthetuckertoonlytheliningofthegown!
6.Repeattheseexactstepsforyourelbowruffles,justinsmallerlengths.
HowtoGetDressedandWearYourItalianGownwithStyle
ASSEMBLY1.Startbyputtingonyourshift,under-petticoat,shoes,staysandpocket.
2.Putonyourfalserump,tyingthebowofftothesideofyourcenterfrontandmakingsureyoucanstillreachyourpocket.
3.Next,putyourpetticoatonoveryourheadandarrangetheskirtoverthefalserump.Tiethebacktapestothefrontwiththebowtiedofftooneside,thenlapthefrontofthepetticoatoverthebacktapeandtieinback.
4.Pinyourcaponbothsidesofyourheadwithsmallpins,catchingyourhair.
5.Putonyourgownandtiethewaisttapearoundyourwaistwiththebowofftooneside.Don’tpinyourgownyet!
6.Ifyouwanttohaveyourgownpointoveryourapron,putyouraprononnowandtieitatyourcenterback,underneaththegown.
7.Nowyoucanpinyourgownclosed.Ifyou’rerighthanded,laytherightsideofthebodicedownfirstandoverlapwiththeleftsidesoyoucanpushyourpinsinattheseamoftheleftpiece(thishelpshidethem).Dotheoppositeifyou’realefty.Startatthebottomedgesofthebodiceandpinuptowardthenecklineuntilthegownissecureandsmooth.Burytheedgesofthepinsintoyourstays.Pinningyourgarmentstakespatienceandpractice,andyouwillalsodevelopyourownpreferencesandtechniquesforstartingpointandpinorientation.
8.Youmaywishtoaddaboworotherornamenttoyourneckline—pinthisonlast,hidingtheheadofthepinintheloopsofthebow.
9.Ifyouarewearingyourhat,placeitonoveryourcapataforwardangle.Carefullypassahatpinthroughonesideofthehat,intoyourhair,andbackouttheoppositesideofthehat.Thentiethehattiesinabowinbackatthebaseofyourskull.
Youarenowreadyforafashionablejaunttothemilliner’sshop!
CHAPTERFIVE
TheRoundGown,1790s
INSPIREDBYTIDENSTØJ,WHITEWEDDINGDRESS,C.1797#426–1923&CUTOFWOMEN’SCLOTHINGDIAGRAMXXXIIIFABRIC&THREADPROVIDEDBYBRITEXFABRICS,SANFRANCISCO
The1790sissuchanincredibledecadeforclothing.Themassivepoliticalandsocialchangesduringthisdecade,coupledwiththepopularityofClassicalGreece,RomeandtheOrient,resultedinfashionthatwasunlikeanythingprior.Therisingwaistlines,preferencesforsheer,gauzyfabricsandthegrowingemphasisonamorenaturalbodyshapeforwomenwereallmeanttoreference
Classicalart,adeparturefromtheartificiallyenhancedGeorgiansilhouette.1Thoughitmayseemsudden,therewasactuallyagradualprogressionofthesilhouettebeginninginthe1780sandslowly,subtlyshiftinguntilthewaistwaswellandtrulyunderthebustinthemid-1790s.2
Gownsfromthemid-tolate-1790sarealsoquitedifferentfromthedressesseenintheearly1800s.The1790ssilhouetteisfullandround,transitioningtowardthelatercolumnarRegencyshape.Almostallofthegownsinourbookusebetween5and7yards(5and7m)offabric.Thisgownisnodifferent,withover4yards(4m)offabricintheskirtand1yard(1m)offabricinthetwo-pieceshapedsleevesalone.Thoughitmayseemexcessive,thesegownsneedthismuchfabrictogivethatbeautifulethereallookthatisnecessarytostepbackintothe1790s.
Finally,staysstartedlosingtheirrigid,primarilyconicalshapebytheearly1780s,continuingtogetsofterand“thrustier”intothe1790s.Afullbosomthatsitsinawell-supportednaturalpositiononthebodyiscrucialforasuccessful1790slook.However,thebustlineofthe1790sisstillnothinglikethe“liftandseparate”ofearly1800scorsets.Weencourageyoutomakeorpurchaseadedicatedpairof1790sstaysoracorsettoachievethenaturalshapeofthisuniqueperiodofdress.
Woman’sDress(RoundGown),c.1795,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.57.24.12
CollectionofEnglishOriginalWatercolourDrawings:MorningDress1795,AnnFranklandLewis,1795,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,
www.lacma.org,AC1999.154.21
OURCHOICESFORTHEROUNDGOWNThefabricforthisgownisacreamyopenweavelinenwithembroideredspots.Thedrapeandsheernessofthislinenhelpscreatethatbeautiful,
flowing,elegantandclassicallook.Whenstifferfabricsuchassilktaffetaisused,itisimportanttoadapttheskirtwidthsfortheadditionalfullness.Sinceourlinenissosheerandopen,wewereabletomakeourskirthemcircumferenceabout150inches(3.8m).However,ifthisgownweremadeofsilktaffeta,itwouldneedtobecloserto90to100inches(2.3to2.5m)skirthemcircumferencetoaccommodatethedifferenceinfabricdrape.You will notice there are many additional millinery projects for thischapter.This is because the1790s is all about accessories! It’s easy tochange your whole look with just your choice of chemisette, sash,turban, cap, etc. A white or ivory linen or cotton gown provides theperfect backdrop to display all the funmillinery that reallymakes the1790spopwithpersonality.We encourage you to try various colors and textures throughout youraccessories. The late eighteenth century did not abide by modernmatchy-matchy rules. Complementary colors were popular in the lateeighteenthcentury,whichmayseemboldandgarish toamoderneye,butwhenyoustartputtingthesevariouspiecestogether,you’llseewhata difference it makes in gaining that “fashion-plate perfect” look. Ifyou’renervous, experimentwithcolorful shoes,glovesor reticulesandexpandyourcolorcombinationsfromthere!
Woman’sDress,c.1800,TheLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArt,www.lacma.org,M.2007.211.868
Women1790–1799,Plate034,N.Heideloff,February1,1795,ThomasJ.WatsonLibrary,TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,b17509853
LEARNINGTOLOVELINEN3,4Linen,oh,darlinglinen,youareawell-lovedpaininthebackside.Lineniswrinkly,wonkyandwackadoodletoworkwith.Naturally,wewanttouseitforacoolandcomfortablesummergown,butwhenyouactuallygettoworkingwithit,youendupjustwantingtosetthegownonfire.Whileweadorelinenforstructuralgownlinings,shifts,capsand
kerchiefs,usingmodernlinentomakeagowncanbearealstruggle.Here’sthedeal:mostlinenisn’tmadetodaylikeitwasintheeighteenthornineteenthcentury.Therehasbeenashiftinthewaylinenistreatedbeforemanufacturingthatcausesittobeallwibbly-wobbly.Itisalmostimpossibletodaytofindaffordablelinenmadeoflong,strongfibers.Andsowepreach cautionwhen it comes toworkingwith linen forgowns.It’s not because the fabric isn’t accurate or pretty. It’s simply becausemodernity has made modern linen much more difficult to work withthaninthepast.However, linen is a great fabric for summer. As a reed plant, it is farsuperior inwickingawaymoisture thancottonand isnaturallycool tothetouch.Whenlinenisstarched,itiscrispandeasytofingerpressandfold,noironneeded.Itholdsupwelltowashing(thoughgoeasyonitinthedryer),anddifferentweightsareavailablefordifferentpurposes. Itwasthecheapgo-tofabricintheeighteenthcenturyandtheyuseditforeverything,thoughironicallytodaylinencanbequiteexpensive!To help stabilize modern linen and make it easier to work with, werecommend that you spray starch your fabric before cutting out thepieces.Forour1790sgown,we’veusedavery loose-woven linen,andwe found that using spray starch on the lining and the fashion fabricthroughouttheconstructionprocessreallyminimizedthewonkiness.Finally,wewouldliketoquicklyaddresssolidcoloredlinen.Whilelinendoesn’t take dye as well as other fibers, dyed linen did exist in theeighteenth century. There are plenty of primary sources that advertisedyed linen for sale, and there are even original garmentsmade out ofdyed linen. Now, does this mean you should make a gown out of abrightlycoloredlinen?Asalwayswerecommendcaution,researchandgoodjudgmentwhenitcomestocolorchoicesinyourlinengarments.
1790sUndiesUnder-PetticoatandBackPad
Because there are precious few primary sources for 1790s under-petticoats,wehadadifficult timedecidinghow topatternone for thebook.Oursisbasedontwoextantpetticoats:aridinghabitpetticoatintheSalisburyMuseum5andabodicedpetticoatthatdatestocirca1790sintheSnowshillCollection.6Itisimportanttonotethatthebackpadiscrucial to the success of your silhouette, because it helps prevent the
gown skirts from collapsing onto themselves. Don’t skip it! Finally,though we tried to create an under-petticoat pattern “one size fitsmany,” you may need to adjust the pattern and subsequent fabricyardagetobestfityou.
MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)medium-toheavy-weightlinen•2½yards(2.5m)cottonvoileat54”(137-cm)-wide•1yard(1m)cottoncandlewickingor¼”(6-mm)-widecottontape•Scrapofcottonfabriclargeenoughforthepad•Stuffing(feathers,woolorcork)•Silkthread(#30forseamsandgatheringand#50forhems)•Linenthread(60/2)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern.Thenturnunderandbastetheseamallowanceonthebodicefrontpiecesonthewrongsideofthefabric.Onthebodicebackpiece,turnundertheseamallowance
andbastetotherightside.
2.Attachthebodicefrontstothebodicebackbypinningthefrontbodicesideseamovertopthebackbodicesideseam,coveringthebastededges.Hemstitchdowntheedgesonoutsideandinsideofthesideseam.Repeatfortheoppositeside.
3.Attachtheshoulderstrapseamsusingthesamemethodasabove.
4.Basteandhemalloftheremainingrawedgesonthebodice—neckline,centerfront,waistedgeandarmscyes.
5.Cutouttheskirtsaccordingtoyourmeasurements.
6.Dividethefrontskirtpanelinhalfselvagetoselvageandmarkthecenterwithapin.Fromthispoint,measuredown10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm),markandcutstraightdownfromthetopedgetothismark.Finehemtheedgesofthisslitopenandcarefullywhipstitchthebottomoftheslittopreventfrayingortearing.
7.Seamthepetticoatpanelstogetherusingarunningbackstitchforselvageedgesoramantuamaker’sseamforcutedges.Next,baste¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)aroundthetopoftheskirt.
8.Nowfoldeachhalfofthefrontpanelinhalfagainandmarkthequarterpointswithpins.Withthelengthofthedrawstringlaidoutflattowardthecenterfrontslit,backstitchthefrontdrawstringendsinplaceatbothpins.
9.Hemaroundtheentiretopoftheskirt.Whenhemmingoverthedrawstring,makesureyoudon’tcatchitinthestitches.
10.Startingfromthesidefrontskirtmarking(wheretheanchorendofyourdrawstringis),stitch3rowsofequalrunningstitchestotheskirtsideseam.Donotyetgatherup.Foldthebackskirtpanelinhalfandmarkthecenterwithapin.Stitch3rowsofrunningstitchesoneachhalfoftheskirtbackpanel.Nowrepeatthisstepontheotherfrontskirtpanel.Youshouldnowhave4sectionsofrunningstitchestogatheruptheskirt.
11.Gatheruptheportionsoftheskirtinsectionstomatchthesideseamsandcenterbackofthebodice.Pinthebodicetothepetticoatrightsidestogetherasyougatheruptheskirt.Thereisnotalotoffabricinthisunder-petticoat,sokeepyourgathersevenlyspacedandanchorthegatheringthreadsbywrappingtheexcessthreadaroundapin.
12.Whipstitchtheskirttothebodice,carefullycatchingeverybumpinthegathers.Finally,hemyourpetticoat.
13.Nowlet’smoveontothebackpad.Cutouttheshapeaccordingtothepattern,addingseamallowance.
14.Withrightsidestogether,backstitcharoundthecrescentshape,leavingabout3inches(7.6cm)openatthetopstraightedge.Turnthepadright-sideout,takingcaretopushoutthecorners.
15.Stuffthepadveryfullofyourstuffingofchoice(weusedfeatherdown).Thenturntheseamallowanceinandcloseupthe3-inch(7.6-cm)holeusingawhipstitch.Ifdesired,placeafewtuftingstitchesinthepadtoholdthestuffinginplace.
16.Lineupandpinthepadinthemiddleofthebackofyourunder-
petticoatwherethebodiceandskirtmeet,andwhipstitchthepadtothepetticoat.
1790sTheRoundGown
Bodiceconstructioninthe1790sseemedtofollowthe“under-bodiceplusover-bodice”conventionsetearlierinthe1780swiththechemisealareineandsimilargowns.Thepurposeoftheunder-bodiceistokeepthebackofthegownsecureandwell-fittedwhiletheover-bodicefloatedoverthetopwithnostructuraldemands.Youcanusethisdesignasthefoundationfornearlyany1790sgowndesign.Forourgownwehave
chosenapleated-front,V-neckedover-bodice,butmanydifferentbodicefrontdesignsareopentoyou.Roundgatherednecklines,bibbedfronts,surplice,andsquarefittedtopswillallworkwiththeunder-bodiceconstructiontoo.We finished nearly all the seams and edges in this project due to theshreddy nature of the fashion fabric. If your gown fabric is a tightlywovensilkorcotton,youcanleavethetopoftheskirtsandthebottomofthebodiceedgesunhemmed.
MATERIALS•5½–6yards(5.5–6m)fashionfabric•1–2yards(1–2m)linenforlining•Silkthread(#30forseamsandgathersand#50forhems)•2yards(2m)¼”(6-mm)-widewoventapeorcandlewicking
THEUNDER-BODICEANDFIRSTFITTINGThe1790sgownistrulyatransitionalgarment,drawingonformerstandardsofconstructionandblendingthemwithnewsilhouettesandstyles.Readontoassembleandfitthisstructuralbodice.
1.Turnundertheseamallowanceandbastetheneckedge,sidebackseamedgesandwaistedgeofthebodicebacklining.Matchthebodicebackfashionfabrictotherawarmscyesandshoulderstrapedgesofthebodicebackliningandpin.Foldundertheseamallowanceonthegownfabricattheneckedgesandstitchthetwo
piecestogetherwithfinerunningstitches.Foldinthesidebackseamandwaistedgesofthegownfabrictomatchtheliningandbastethroughbothlayerstosecurethemtogether.
2.Onthesidebackliningpieces,turnandbastethesidebackseamsandwaistedges.Matchthegownfabrictotheliningatthearmscyeandsideseam,turnintheseamallowancetomatchtheliningalongthesidebackseamsandwaistedgesandbastethetwolayerstogether.
3.Withrightsidestogether,pinthebackandsidebackpiecestogetheratthesidebackseam,workingthecurvefromthewaistedgeintothearmscye.Thefinishedwaistedgesneedtomatch,buttherecanbeexcessinthearmscye.Englishstitchfromthewaistedgetothearmscye,pullingthestitchestaught(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Openoutthepiecesandpresstheseam.Repeatontheotherside.
4.Useafinerunningstitchtofinishthebottomedgesofthebodiceback.Stopyourstitching1to2inches(2.5to5cm)fromthebodicesideseams.Thiswillleaveroomforfitting.
5.Onthefrontbodicelining,turnintheseamallowance,baste,turnupagain,thenhemthenecklineandcenterfront.Alsohemthebottomwaistedgejusttothedottedlinewherethegownfabricwillbeapplied.
6.Pintheunder-bodicefrontfashionfabricontheliningmatchingtherawedgesattheshoulderstrapandarmscye.Foldunderthefashionfabricalongthedottedlineandtomatchthewaistedge,thenfinelyrunningstitch,stopping1to2inches(2.5to5cm)fromthesideseam.
7.Turnuptheseamallowanceontheneckedgeandfrontbodiceseamoftheshoulderstrapsandbaste.Ontheinside,lapthebastedfrontshoulderstrapedgeoverthebodicefrontshoulderstrapseamandstitchwithasmallhemstitchorbackstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Pressandstarchthebodicepieces.
8.Nowit’stimetofitthebodice.Beginwithputtingonallofyourunderpinnings.Roughlypinthebodicetogetheratthesideseamsandbackshoulderseamandputonthebodice.Overlapthecenterfrontedgesandpinclosed.Adjustthepinsoftheshoulderstrapsinbackasneededtoachievethecorrecthighwaistplacement.Ifyouneedbustdarts,pinchthemupandpininplacenow.
Bustdartsarenormalbytheendofthe1790swiththedevelopmentofthesofter,morenaturalbustshape.Itisimportanttofitthebustdartsonthebody,asoftenaladyisnotsymmetrical.
9.Pinjustthefashionfabricoutofthewayatthesideseams,thenpinchupandpinthesideseamstocreateasmooth,tightfit.Workbothsideseamssimultaneouslyforsymmetry.
10.Nowadjustthebackshoulderseamsagaintocreateasmooth,symmetricalandsecurefit.Oncesatisfied,removethebodicefromthemodel,leavingthesideseam,shoulderstrapandbustdartpinsinplace.
11.Next,hemstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebackshoulderstrapstotheliningontheinside.
12.Forthesidesseams,foldtheliningopenandcreasetheseamallowancewithyourfingersalongthepinline.Thenwithrightsidestogether,tightlywhipstitchthefoldededgesfromtheinside.Removethepinsandpresstheseamopen.Cutoffanyextraseamallowance,leaving¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm).
13.Pinthesidebackbodicefashionfabrictooverlaptheliningsideseam.Trimawayanyexcessseamallowance.Nowpinthebodicefrontfashionfabricoverthelayersandfoldundertheseamallowancetocovertherawedges.Useyourliningsideseamasaguideforwherethefashionfabricseamshouldgo.Prickstitchthefashionfabricsideseamfromtheoutside(⅛x⅛inch[3x3mm]).
14.Moveontoyourbustdartsnext,andlightlymarkwithapencilorerasableinkthedartplacementalongthebaseofthepins.Unpinthedarts,foldrightsidestogether,carefullymatchingupthepencillinesandbackstitch(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Foldthefabricoutflatandpressthedartstowardthesideseams.
SKIRTSANDSLEEVESInthisnextsection,wewillmakethefrontandbackoftheskirtaswellasthelong,two-piecesleeves.Itisatthispointthatyourgownmaygoontobearoundgownorremainanopenrobe:justomitthefrontskirtpanel.ThosecleverGeorgianmantua-makersknewtheconstructionwasthesame!Additionally,wehaveincludedadiagram(here)formeasuringandpatterningatwo-pieceshapedsleeveandhowtoassemblewiththeefficienttailor’smethod.
1.Cutyourskirtpanelsaccordingtothediagramhere.Foldthefrontskirtpanelinhalflengthwiseandmarkthecenterwithapin.Measuredown10to12inches(25.4to30.5cm)andmark.Thencutstraightdownfromthetopedgetothismark.Finelyhemtheslitopen,andcarefullywhipstitchthebottomtosecureandstrengthentheopening.
2.Seamalltheskirtpanelstogether.Useamantuamaker’sseamforrawcutedgesorarunningbackstitchforselvageedges.Turnovertheseamallowanceandbastetheentiretopedgeoftheskirt.Fromthecenterfrontoftheskirtmeasureabout16inches(40.7cm)towardthesideseamandmarkwithapin.Repeatfortheoppositeside.Thismeasurementcanbealittlelongerorshorter,dependingonyourmodel’ssize.
3.Cuttwolengthsofnarrowtapeorcandlewickingabout18to20inches(45.7to50.8cm)long.Thislengthmayalsovaryifyouchangethefrontoftheskirtmeasurementabove.Pintheendofthetapetothepinmarkandsecurelystitchitinplace.Repeatfortheoppositeside.
4.Next,turntheedgeoveragainandhemstitchtheentiretopoftheskirt,makingsurenottocatchthedrawstringontheskirtfront.
5.Ifyourgownskirtistrained,nowisagoodtimetomarkandadjustit.Workingonalargeflatsurface,foldtheskirtinhalfatthecenterback,matchingupeachoftheskirtpanelseamsandpintogether.Withtheentireskirtfoldedandsmoothedflat,youwillseea“stairstep”effectatthehemwiththedifferentlengthsofeachskirtpanel.Drawastraightlinefromthebottomcorneroftheskirtfrontpanelsideseamtothebottomcorneroftheskirtbackpanelsideseam,creatinganangleacrossthewidthoftheskirtsidepanel.Continuethislinetointersectthebottomedgeoftheskirtbackpanel,smoothingintoagentlecurve.Cutthisangle.Donothemtheskirtyet.
6.Oneachside,measurestraightdownfromthestartofthearmscyeinthebodicefronttofindtheanchorpointsforwheretheskirtisattachedtothebodiceofthegownandmarkwithapin.
7.Findthecenterbackofyourbackskirtpanelonemoretimeandmark.With#30thread,make3rowsofevenrunningstitchesatthetopoftheskirtfromthedrawstringtothecenterback,thenaseparatetriplerowofrunningstitchesfromthecenterbacktotheoppositedrawstring.Pullthestitchesuptogatherthemtofitthesections
markedonthebodice.Theywillbeverytightandfull.Pintheskirttothebodicerightsidestogetherasyougoandsecurethelongtailsofthegatheringthreadsbywindingthemaroundanotherpin.
8.Whipstitchtheskirttothebodice,catchingeverybumpofthegatherstouchingthebodice.Whencomplete,openthebodiceandskirtoutflatandpress.
9.Cutoutyoursleevesusingthediagramhereandadd1inch(2.5cm)seamallowanceonallsides.Pintogether,thencheckthefitofyoursleevesandmarkanyadjustmentsbeforeyouseamthemtogether.Don’tmakeyoursleevestootight—makesureyoucanbendyourarms!Oncesatisfied,separatetheliningfromthegownfabricandlaythemrightsidestogether.Thenstacktheliningsleeveontopofthefashionfabricsleeve,sandwichingthesleeveheads.Matchupthewristedgeofall4piecesandsmootheverythingout.
10.Ontheoutsideseamedgemeasureupandmark3to4inches(7.6to10.2cm)fromthewrist,whichwillbethewristopening.Ontheinsideseammark½inch(1.3cm)upfromthebottomedge.Thiswillgiveyouroomtofinishyourwristedgeoncethesleevesarestitched.Backstitchbothseamsat8to10stitchesperinch(2.5cm).
11.Trimtheseamallowanceto½inch(1.3cm).Stickyourarmbetweenthetwofashionfabriclayersandturnthesleeveright-sideout.Thiswillleaveyourrawedgesencasedinthelayersofthesleeves.Carefullypresstheseamssmoothandshapethesleeve.
SETTINGTHESLEEVESANDFINISHINGTHEBODICEInthenextsection,weonceagaindemonstratetheeighteenthcenturymethodofsettingthesleevesonthebody.Additionally,theunder-bodiceiscompleted,readyforthefinalover-bodicetreatment.
1.Nowit’stimetosetthesleeves.Beginbyputtingthegownonthemodeloverallunderpinnings.Slidethefirstsleeveupthearmandpinattheshoulderpoint.Startingatthefrontandworkingaroundtheunderarmtowardtheback,pinthesleeveintoplacetryingyourbesttocatchthegownbutnottheshift,staysorperson.Atthefrontunderarmcrease,smooththesleeveupovertheshoulder,workingtowardtheback.Ifyouhaveanyexcessfabric,takeatuckonthebacksideofthesleeve,betweentheshoulderpointandthestartoftheunderarmcrease.Checkmobility.Themodelshouldbeabletocrossherarmsandraisethemaboveherhead.Repinasnecessaryandrepeatfortheothersleeve.
2.Checkthehemofyourgowninfrontandmarkashorterlengthifit’s
toolong.Thehemshouldjustbrushthetopofyourtoesandextendgracefullyintothetrainattheback.Carefullyremovethegown,keepingallthepinsinplace.
3.Onthesleeveunderarm,carefullyconverttoverticalpinning.Markthestitchlineinpencil,makingsurebotharmsmatch,thenbackstitchtheunderarmportionofthesleevewithabout10to12stitchesperinch(2.5cm).
4.Withbigbackstitches,stitchthetopofthesleeveinplaceovertheshoulderstrap.Thesestitchesdon’thavetobepretty—theywillbecoveredlater.Trimawayanyexcessofjustthesleevehead.
5.Nowlaythefashionfabricshoulderstrapovertheliningshoulderstrap,matchinguptheseamallowanceattheneckedge.Turnundertheseamallowanceonalledgesandpinthestrapinplacemakingsurebothsidesaresymmetrical.
6.Next,appliquestitchtheshortedgeofthefashionfabricshoulderstraponthefrontbodice(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Prickstitch⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)aroundthetopofthearm.Appliquestitchthebackofthestrapinplaceoverthebackshoulderstrapseam(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Attheneckline,finelyrunningstitchtoattachthestraps.
7.Cutoutanyexcessseamallowanceinthearmscye,leaving¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm).Ifyouhaveshreddyfabric,orverylittleseamallowance,dowhattheGeorgiansdidbyroughlywhipstitchingoverthearmscyeseamallowance.
8.Onthesleevecuffs,turnupandbastetheseamallowanceonthelining.Thenturnunderthefashionfabricedgestomatch,pinandfinelyrunningstitchtofinish.
OVER-BODICEANDSKIRTFRONT,THIRDFITTINGANDFINISHINGAtlastitistimefortheover-bodice.Forourgownwehavechosenapleated,V-neckstyle,butitisatthispointthatyoumaychoosenearlyanybodicedesign.Theunder-bodiceconstructionandpurposeremainsthesame.
1.Hemallfoursidesoftheover-bodicepiece.Iftheover-bodicepiecesareambiguouslyshaped,besuretomarktheshoulder,bust,leftandrightedges.
2.Atthetopoftheshoulder,finelyknifepleatthefabrictothewidthofthebackshoulderstrap.Thevisiblesideofthepleatshouldbebetween¼and½inch(6mmand1.3cm)buttheywillbeverydeepunderneath.Pinandbasteinmultiplerowsacrossthepleatstoholdtheminplace,thenpresstosetthem.
3.Prickstitchthepleatstogetherattheshoulderedge.Besuretocatchallthelayersandadjustthepleatstokeepthemevenifnecessary.
4.Ontheunderside,backstitcheachpleat,onlycatchingtheedges,acrossthewidthofthepieceabout3½inches(8.9cm)downfromtheshoulderedge.Stitchanotherrowafewinchesdownfromthefirst.Thesestitchesshouldbelooseandinvisibleontherightside.Thiskeepsthepleatslyingcorrectlyovertheshoulder.
5.Withrightsidestogether,pinandwhipstitchtheover-bodicewaistedgetothedrawstringsectionoftheskirt.Beverycarefulnottocatchyourdrawstring.Thisistrickyandtimeconsuming,sogoslowlyandcarefully.
6.Next,putthegownonoverallunderpinningsandpintheunder-bodiceclosedatcenterfront.Tiethefrontdrawstringunderthebustandadjustthegathers.Atthispointtheover-bodicewillhang,attachedonlytothewaistlinedrawstring.
7.Gentlypullthepleatedtopedgeoftheover-bodiceovertheshouldertomeetthebackshoulderseam.Iftheshoulderedgeoftheover-bodiceistoolong,foldtheedgeundertolaywhereyoulikeandpin.Don’toverfitthispiece—youwantittolookgraceful.
8.Movetothesideoftheover-bodiceandlaytheedgealongthesideof
thebust.Placementmayvary—findthenaturalline.It’simportanttosecuretheover-bodicetotheunder-bodicetocontrolthefullnessanddrape.Repeatfortheoppositeside,thenremovethegown,leavingthepinsinplace.
9.Finelyappliquestitchtheover-bodiceshouldersintoplace,makingsuretocatchallthepleats.Thenprickstitchthesideoftheover-bodiceinplacefromtheshouldertoskirt.
10.Hemtheskirtofthegown.
Done!
1790sSash
Whilesashescameintofashioninthe1780s(yes,thismeansyoucanwearonewithyourItalianGown[here]!),theywerealltherageinthe1790s.Veryoftenwomenwouldjustuselonglengthsofwidesilkribbon,butsadlywenolongerhaveaccesstothatqualityofsilkribbon,sowehavetomakeourown.However,makingyourownribbonfromfabricyardageisanexcellentwaytouseupscrapfabric.Foroursash,wecutbrightlycoloredstripedsilkintostripsandhemmedtheedges.Lastly,thereissuchathingasasashthatistoolong.Keepthissashbetween4and6yards(4and6m)long,max.
MATERIALS•⅓–½yard(⅓–½m)of54”(137.2-cm)-widesilkfabricor4–6yards(4–6m)of4–6”(10.2–15.2-cm)-widesilkribbon
•Tassels(optional)•Silkthread(#50forhemmingand#30fortassels)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutenoughpiecestojoinforabouta4-to6-yard(4to6-m)length;54-inch(137.2-cm)-widefabricmeansyou’llneedabout3to4stripsat4inches(10.2cm)wide.
2.Tojointhepieces:placetheselvageedgestogetherandwhipstitchwithsmall,closestitches.Flattenthepiecesoutandgentlypullatthestitchestoabuttheedges.Continueaddinglengthwiththismethod.
3.Narrowhemyoursashwitha¼-inch(6-mm)-widefinishonthelongedges.Thiswilltakeawhile.Putonyourfavoritemovieandyou’llbedonebeforeyouknowit.
4.Tofinishtheends,youhaveoptions—afinehem,afringedhemorourpersonalfavorite:tassels.Withshortrunningstitches,gathertheshortendtightly.Insertthetoploopofthetasselandcarefullystitchthroughthecordtosecureitinplace,allthewayaroundtocoverit.Trimawayanyremainingloopedcord.
1790sV-NeckedRuffledChemisette
Chemisettesinthe1790scouldbequiteintegraltothefashionablelook.Thetwodesignshereappearofteninportraitureandfashionplates,bothwith the same function but quite different styles. The first is aV-neckchemisettewitharuffle.Youcanwearitpinnedshutforasuperrufflylook,orpullitopenforacasual-does-medievalappearance.
MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)cottonvoile,54”(137.1cm)wide•Silkthread(#30forseamsandgathersand#50forhemming)•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)thincordortapefordrawstring
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern(here).Hemthesideseams,frontsandnecklineofthefrontandbackpieces(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])beforehemmingthebottomofthechemisettetocreatea½-inch(1.3-cm)drawstringchannel.
2.Whipoverthefrontshoulderedgesandpullthethreadtogatherthisedgetofitthebackshoulderedges.
3.Matchthefronttothebackattheshoulderedges,rightsidestogether,andpin.Thenwhipstitchtheshoulderpiecestogether,catchingeverybumpofthegathers.
4.Finelyhemalltheedgesoftherufflepieces.Withrightsidestogether,whipstitchthefinished3.5inchshortendstogethertomakeonelongrufflepiece.Openflat,thenpress.
5.Whipstitchoverthestraightedgeoftheruffle9inches(22.9cm)ata
time,pullingupthethreadtogathertheruffledownto3inches(7.6cm)andknottingthethreadbeforecontinuingon.Gatheratintervalsuntiltherufflefitsthenecklineofthechemisette.
6.Right-sidestogether,pintheruffletothechemisetteneckline.Using#30silkthread,attachtheruffleusingawhipstitch,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.
7.Insertthedrawstringthroughallpieces.Pulleven,thentackthedrawstringatthecenterbacktosecureit.
1790sShirt-StyleChemisette
Thissecondchemisetteisinspiredbymenswear.Verysimplymade,whenwornwiththesoftnessoftheroundgown,itgivesoffthatartisticjenesaisquoiattitudeofthe“coolest”90sgals.
MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)finelinenorcottonshirting•Silkthread(#30forseams,gathersandprickstitchingand#50forhemming)orlinenthread(60/2)
•1½–2yards(1.5–2m)candlewickingornarrowtape
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesaccordingtothepattern(here).Hemthesideseamsandfrontsofthefrontandbackpieces(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])beforehemmingthebottomofthechemisettetocreatea½-inch(1.3-cm)drawstringchannel.Leavethenecklineraw.
2.Felltheshoulderseams(here).
3.Next,prepthecollar.Basteup¼inch(6mm)atthebottomandtheshortsidesofthecollar.
4.Foldthecollarinhalflengthwise,liningupthebastededgesandprickstitchthecollartogether⅛x⅛inch(3x3mm)startingapproximately1inch(2.5cm)fromthebaseofthecollar,goingall
thewayaroundto1inch(2.5cm)abovethebaseontheotherside.
5.Foldthecollarinhalflengthwiseagainandpress.Markthelengthofthecollarinquarterswithpins.
6.Gatherupthenecklineofthechemisetteusingthreerowsofevenlyspacedrunningstitchesinfoursectionscorrespondingtothequartersofthecollar:leftfront=firstquarter,backhalf=secondquarter,backhalf2=thirdquarter,rightfront=fourthquarter.
7.Turnuponebottomedgeofthecollarandpinitoutoftheway.Lapthebottombastededgeofthecollarovertheraw,gatherednecklineofthechemisette.Pinandfinelyhemstitch,makingsuretocatcheverybumpofthegathers.
8.Releasetheremainingedgeofthecollar,lapitovertheothersideofthegatheredneckline,thenfinelyhemstitch,againcatchingineverybumpofthegathers.
9.Closeanyremainingopeningsatthefrontofthecollarwithprickstitches.
10.Runthedrawstringthroughthechannelsmadeearlier,andsecurewithacoupleofstitchesatthecenterback.
Done!
1790s“VigéeLeBrun”TurbanCap
This cap was inspired by the portraits by Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun,references from 1790s newspaper advertisements, and the Gallery ofFashionbooks.Asoliddefinitionandclearconstructionofthisheaddressis ambiguous in original sources, so we’ve interpreted it as theeighteenth-century milliner might have: the appearance of a wrappedturban with the construction of a cap. The pattern for this fun bit ofmillinery produces amoderate-sized cap, but feel free to scale up thepiecesforagrandereffect.
MATERIALS•¼yard(0.25m)linen•¼–½yard(0.25–0.5m)silkorganza•Silkthread(#30forgathers,seams,eyeletsand#50forhemming)•Linenthread(60/2optionalforcaul)•1yard(1m)candlewickingor¼”(6-mm)widetape
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepatternpieces.Basteupallsidesoftheband,andhemstitchtheshortsidesandtopedge.
2.Useanawltoworkaneyeletatbothendsofthebandjustabovethebasting.Using#30silkorlinenthread,whipstitchtheeyeletopen.Reworktheholewiththeawlaftersewing,toopentheeyeletupagain.Turnthebottomedgeofthebandupagain,overtheeyelets,andhemtocreatethedrawstringchannel.
3.Turnup¼inch(6mm)andbastearoundtheorganzacaul.Repeatforthelinencaul.Next,centerthelinencaulintheorganzacaulandpleattheorganzatofitthelinencaul.Thisdoesn’thavetobeprecisebecausethecaulisgoingtobegatheredupagainlater.
4.Whipstitchtheedgesofthetwocaulstogetherandpullthethreadtogathertheedge.Gatherandadjusttofittheband.
5.Withrightsidestogether,pinthecaultothebandandwhipstitchtogether,catchingallthebumpsofthegathers.Theshortendsofthecaulshouldmeetbutarenotsewntogether.
6.Threadnarrowtapethroughthedrawstringchannelandcutwithenoughlengthtotieasmallbow.Thisallowsthebandtobetightenedalittletokeepthecapsecure.
7.Cuttheorganzatiesaccordingtothepattern,here.Rollhemeachofthetiesonthefrontandlongsides,andstitchanormalbastedhemfortheback.Gatheruporpleatthebackofthetiestofitthewidthofthebandandappliquestitchthemtothebandattheback,justabovetheeyelets.Thetiesareleftfreeformaximumbow-tyingoptions.
1790sLinenTurbanWrap
This turbanwrap is inspiredbythebeautiful1790sportraitsofFrenchand Russian aristocrats by Elisabeth Vigée Le Brun. A wrap like thisshouldbenolessthan2-yards(2-m)long,butwe’vemadeours6yards(6m).Thatmayseemexcessive,butyou’llbesurprisedhowquicklythislengthwrapsup.Thewrapismadeoutofafinelightweightsheerlinen.Though silk was used for some turban caps and chiffonets, it can be
slipperyanddifficulttosecuretoyourheadasaturbanwrap.Byusingafine linen or cotton organdy, you can have that gauzy look but stillmaintaincontroloveryourturban.
MATERIALS•1–3yards(1–3m)of54”(137-cm)widefabric(addmoreyardageifusinganarrowertextile)
•Silkthread(#50)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutenoughstripsoffabrictocreatethedesiredlength(2to6yards[2to6m])ofyourturban.Yourturbancanbebetween10and20inches(25.4and50.8cm)wide.
2.Fell(here)theedgesofthefabrictogethertocreateonelongpiece.Whenallpiecesarejoined,hemthelongedgeswithafinerunningstitch.Thistakestime.
1790STURBANWRAPPINGTurbansofthe1790sarefunandcreative.Wrappingstylesareendless,andfashionablewomenofthisperiodtiedtheirturbansallmannerofways.There’snorightorwrongwaytowraptheseturbans—up,down,around,over,under,twisted,tucked,looped,younameit.Havefun!
1.Startwiththeturbanatthecenterfrontorcenterbackofyourheadandwrapit.Crossandtwistthefabrictogiveittextureanddimension.Keepdoingthisaroundyourheaduntilyou’rehappywithhowitlooks.
2.Asyouwrap,don’tforgettopulloutyourcurlsfromthespaces.Securelypintheturbaninplaceusingstraightorstickpins.
3.Ifyouhaveextralengthaftertheinitialturbanwrappingyoucandoa
fewdifferentthingswithit.Welovedrapingtheturbanaroundtheneckandface,withthelengthhangingdowntheback.Youcanalsohaveitdrapedoveryourshoulder,and/ortuckedintoyoursash.
1790sTheCarolineHat
Hats:welovethem,butgoodhistoricalshapescanbehardtofind.Whilea decorated or covered straw hat will serve you well, learning toconstruct your own chapeaux in buckram and wire opens a world ofpossibilitiesinanycentury.ThishatisinspiredbytheCarolineHatfromthe Gallery of Fashion, November 1795.7 While newspapers advertisemillinery wire in the eighteenth century and buckram was
commonplace,wedon’tknowforcertainifthesematerialswereusedinthe sameway aswe demonstrate here. There is evidence of buckram,wireandwaddingbeingused in the1830s forbonnets,8 but thatdoesnotmeanthatitwasusedinthe1790s.So,inpursuitoffulldisclosure,the techniquesused for thishat qualify asmodernmillinery. Sincewedon’thavethehatoptions thatourancestorsdid,wehavetomakedoandutilizetheoptionsthatareavailabletous.
MATERIALS•½–1yard(0.5–1m)heavymillinerybuckram•2yards(2m)#19gaugemillinerywire•1–2yards(1–2m)cottonflannel•2yards(2m)silkforthetopofthehat•1yard(1m)silkfortheunderbrim(ifnotthesame)•¼yard(0.25m)linenorcotton•1yard(1m)candlewickingorcottontape•Silkthread(#30forallconstructionand#50forhemming)•Feathers,ribbons,fakeflowers,fruitandwhateverelseinspiresyou.
ASSEMBLY1.First:cutthebrim,crownandtoppiecesoutofheavymillinerybuckram.Cutthesamepiecesoutofflannelbutwithalargerseamallowance,markedwithapencil.Dampentheflannelandsmoothto
adheretothebuckram,makingsurethattheseamallowancemarkingsarestillvisibleontheflannel.Clipthematerialstogethertokeepinplace.Letdryovernightandcarefullyironthepiecesflannel-sideuptoflattenthebuckram.Orsimplyadheretheyardofflanneltobuckramyardagebeforecuttingoutthepiecesusingthemethodexplainedabove.
Thedampflannelactivatestheglueinthebuckram,whichishowtheycansticktogether.Whenweworkedonthisproject,wehadaslightproblemwithshrinkage,whichiswhywesuggestthesecondoptionofpastingtheflannelandbuckramtogetherfirstbeforecuttingoutthepatternpieces.
2.Whipstitchmillinerywirearoundtheoutsideedgeofthebrim,carefullywrappingandcoveringthecutwireedgeswiththread.Youwantthewiretobeonorasclosetotheedgeofthebrimaspossible.
3.Covertheedgewithalongstripof½-inch(1.3-cm)-wideflannelusing
largerunningorprickstitchesthroughbothsidestoholditintoplaceandcoverthewire.Setaside.
4.Lineupthesideseamallowanceofthecrownbandandwhipdowntheoutsideandinsideedges.It’sokayiftheflannelisraw—itwillbecoveredup.
5.Cutthenotchesthroughtheflannelandbuckramofthetopcrownandfoldthemsotheyfitintothecrownband.Quicklywhiparoundtheedgeofthecircletosecurethetwopiecestogether,adjustingthenotchesifneeded.
6.Cutoutthesilkforthetopcrownandcrownbandwithabouta¾-to1-inch(1.9-to2.5-cm)seamallowanceforbothpieces.Centerandpinthesilktopcrownpiecetothebuckram.Smoothitfromthecenteroutward,overtheedgeofthecrownband,andpininplace.Stitchthesilkonthesideofthecrownbandwithlargebastingstitches.
7.Onthesilkcrownbandpiece,bastetheshortedgethatwillformthefinishedsideseamontheoutside.Intheround,lineupthesilkcrownbandpiecerightsidestogetheratthetopoftheconstructedbuckramcrownandpin.Thesilkpiecewillstickupabovethebuckramcrown.Backstitchintoplace,keepingyourstitchesrightontheedge.
8.Folddownandpinthesilkbandoverthebuckramband.Lapthebastedshortedgeoveritscorrespondingrawedgeandappliquestitchthroughalllayerstosecure.Atthebottom,foldtheseamallowancetotheinsideandbasteitintoplacetokeepthecrownsmooth.Setaside.
9.Cutoutthesilkupperforthebrimwithanextra1-inch(2.5-cm)seamallowanceontheoutsideedge.Lineupthefabricoverthebuckramandrunningstitchinplacearoundthecrownopening.
10.Wherethebrimwillsweepup,prickstitchthesilktothebuckramworkingoutwardinrowswiththestitchesabout1inch(2.5cm)apart.Youonlyneedtostitchwherethebrimcurvesupward.Testtheupwardcurveandstitchanywherethefabricneedstobeheldtothebuckram.
11.Aroundtheedgeofthebrim,smooththesilkfabricaroundthewirededgeandpininplaceuntilyouarereadytoprickstitchthelayerstogetheralongthewirededge.Trimtheexcessbrimfabricto½to1inch(1.3to2.5cm).
12.Onthebrim,clipandfolduptheseamallowanceforthecrowntothemarkedline.Withthecrownopen-sideup,placethebrimatop,continuingfoldingthetabsintothecrown.Pinaroundtheinside.Fromtheinside,carefullystitchthecrowntothebrimwithtinyappliquestitches.Theinteriorstitchingcanbemessy,buttheoutsidestitcheswillbesmallandfine.
13.Cutoutyourunder-brimfabricwithdoublethewidthoftheoriginalbrimpatternontheouteredge.Thiswillprovidetheextravolumetobegatheredup.Cuttheovalopenononeofthelongsidesofthebrim,andbasteoneedgeup¼inch(6mm).
14.Rightsidestogether,pintheunder-brimfabrictothecentersides,centerfrontandcenterbackpointsalongthehatbrim.Startingatoneofthesepoints,tackthepointinplaceandthencontinuewitharunningstitchabout¼inch(6mm)fromtheedgeoftheunder-brimfabric.Whenyou’vereachedthenextanchorpoint,drawuptherunningstitchtomatchthehatbrim,thentackstitchagainandcarryontothenextanchorpoint.
15.Whenthebrimliningiscompletelygatheredandanchored,adjustthefullnessthrougheachsection,pinningasneeded.Finelyrunningstitchtheliningfabrictotheseamallowancenexttothewirethatwasfoldedoverfromthetopwithafinerunningstitch,onlycatchingthefabricandstayingrightnexttothewire.
16.Withtheouteredgegatheredandstitched,turntheunder-brimfabricoutside-in,overthehatbrimcompletely,soitnowlaysovertheundersideofthebrim.Stitchthecutseamthatyoubastedearlierinplaceusingfineappliqueorprickstitches.
17.Bringtheunder-brimliningtothecrownandarrangeintopleats,pinningasyougo.Runningstitchtheliningtothecrown,yourstitcheswillgothroughthecrown,butyouwillcoverthispartupwithribbontohideallthesins.Youwilladdthefinallinenliningtothecrownafteryou’vedecoratedyourhat.Itiseasiertodecoratethehatwhenyoudon’thavetopullthecrownliningoutoftheway.Additionally,theliningwillcoverupalltheuglysewingthatwilloccurwhenyou’reattachingyourtrim.
18.Nowyouneedtodecorateyourhat.Startbywrappingribbonaroundthecrown,seamingatthecenterbackwithappliquestitches.Thiswillcoverupthestitchingfromearlier.
19.Therearemanydifferentwaystodecorateahat,andwebelieveitisbesttofollowaperiodimageforinspiration.Tomakepoufsand4-loopbows,refertopages65,andfor5-loopbows,seehere.Don’tforgetthatostrichfeathers,veilsandfauxflowers/fruitwerereallypopularforhatdecoration.Apply,arrangeandroughlytackstitchfeathersandotherdecorationsinplacetoholdtheirpositions.Thevariationsareendlessandcompletelyuptoyourwhims.
20.Afterdecoratingyourhat,addtheliningtothecrown.Cutalongrectangularpieceoflinenfollowingthebandpattern,subtracting1to2inches(2.5to5cm)inwidthbeforeaddingtheseamallowance.Basteallsidesoftheband.
21.Hemtheshortsidesandtopedgeofthelining,makingsureyoucaninsertadrawstringatthetop.Matchuptheshortsidesandwhipstitchtogether,leavingthetop½inch(1.3cm)openforthedrawstring.Runthedrawstringthroughthechannel.
22.Pintheliningintotheinsideofthecrown,matchingthebastedbottomedgetothebottomofthecrown.Appliquestitch(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])thebottomedgeoftheliningtojusttheunder-brimfabric.Pullupthedrawstringtoadjustthefit.
1790sGiantFurMuff
While muffs were popular throughout the century, the 1790s seemedlike the best place to explain how tomake one. Not onlyweremuffssuperpopularduringthedecade,theyweresuperbigaswell!Thelargesize of the muffs during this decade make them great hand and armwarmers for men and women alike … and for the occasional pillowfight. If you’d like to adapt this muff for earlier decades, shrink thediagrammeasurementstosuit.Muffs canbe covered in furor silk andcanbe lined in silkoramoreutilitarianfabric.Whilewe’vemadeoursoutoffauxfur,thetechniques—razorcutting,tapingtheedges,etc.—maybeappliedtoworkingwithrealfur,too.
MATERIALS•1yard(1m)fauxfur•1yard(1m)silktaffeta•2yards(2m)½–1”(1.3–2.5-cm)-widecottonorlinentape•Downfeathers,cottonorwoolstuffing
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutyourmaterialsaccordingtothediagram.Youwillprobablyneedtojoinpiecesoffurtogether.Tocutthefur,gentlyslicealongthehidesidewitharazor.Donotcutthefurwithscissorsunlessyou
wanthairallovereverythingyouown.Cuttingwitharazorallowsyoutopiercejustthehide/backsidewithoutcuttingthehairs,whichmakesthejoiningnearlyinvisible.
2.Tojointhefur,laytherawedgesflat,hide-sideup,sotheytoucheachother,andwhipstitch(12to14stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Donotwhiptheedgesrightsidestogether,asthiswillcatchtoomuchfur.Byabuttingtheedges,youwillmakeasmallridgeforthejoinandminimizethelookofthejoinontheexterior.Oncejoined,useapinto“scratch”outanycaughthairs.
3.Laythetapealongtheedgeontopofthefur,andrunningstitchinplace(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm])throughthehide.Trimthefurawayunderthetapetoreducebulk.
4.Turnthetapetotheinside.Allowtheedgesofthefurtorollinbyaboutaninch(2.5cm)ormoretocreateaseamallowance.Hemstitchtheedgeofthetapetothebacksideofthefur.
Whenusingrealfur,cutapieceofthin,tightlywovenfabricthesamesizeasthefurpieceandlayitagainstthehidesideofthefurbeforeturningtheedges.Turnthetapededgestotheinsideandhemstitchtothisfabricinterlininginsteadoftothehideitself.Thisisalsoadvisableforloose-knitbackingonfauxfurtopreventthedownfeathersfrompokingthrough.
5.Forlining,bastethesilkup¼inch(6mm)ononelongedge.Layitagainstthehidesideofthefurpiece,matchingthebastededgeuptothetape,andhemstitchinplace(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Opentheliningpieceouttotheside.
6.Tojointhemufftogether,abuttheshortedgesofthefurpieceandwhipstitchfromtheback.Thenbackstitchtheshortedgesoftheliningtogether(6to8stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Becarefultofullystitchtotheedgewheretheliningmeetsthefurpiece.
7.Turnthemuffinsideoutandpulltheliningoverthefurpiece.Turnandpintheedgeoftheliningundertomeetthetapededgeofthefur.Hemstitchtheliningtothetape,leavingopenabout12inches(30cm)forstuffing(8to10stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
8.Stuffthemuffwithfeathersoryourfillingofchoice.Besurenottooverfill,andifyou’reusingfeathers,it’sbesttodoitoutside.Finally,hemstitchtheremaining12inches(30cm)closed,thenturnthemuffright-sideout.
1790sThe“SundaeBest”Reticule
The1790s is thedecadewhere the reticule, a small purse—sometimesridiculouslysmall,hencethename“ridicule”or“reticule”—reallycomesinto fashion. Reticules could be large, small, boring, whimsical,complicatedorextremelysimple.Forthisbook,we’vecreatedtwostylesfor your amusement. First is the hard-bottom “Sundae Best” Reticule,and the second is a soft-bodied “Frog” Reticule (here). Trims,embroidery and colors are up to you.Remember that the 1790s lovedcolorfulandboldaccessories,sobebraveandhavefunwithyourcolorchoices!
MATERIALS•½yard(0.5m)silkin1or2colors•1OldAmericanDuchessshoebox•1yard(1m)of¼”(6-mm)-widesilkribbonfortie•Silkthread(#30seamsand#50hems)•2yards(2m)metalliclacetrim•1–2fringetassels
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthetoppiecesaccordingtothepattern.Measuredown2.75inches(7cm)fromthetop,andmarkwithapinonbothsidesofbothpieces.Finelyhembothedgesofthat2.75inches(7cm).
2.Folddownthetop¼inch(6mm)andbaste.Folddown,again,1inch(2.5cm)andhem(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Fromthathemmededge,measureup¼inch(6mm)anddoafinerunningstitchtocreatethedrawstringcasing.
3.Seamuponesideofthebagusingthemantuamaker’sseam,andprepthesecondseambybastingdownthesidessotheycanbefelledtogetherafterthebagisattachedtothebottom.
4.Foldthebottomup¼inch(6mm)sotherawedgeisontherightsideofthebagandbaste.Therawedgewillbeprotectedbythehardbottomofthereticuleifdonethisway.Ifyoubastetheopposite,therawedgewillbeexposedtoyourhandandwhateverelseyouputinthereticule.Setaside.
5.Cutoutthecardboardandsilkbottompiecesaccordingtothepattern.Besuretoadd½inch(1.3cm)seamallowanceforthesilkpieces.
6.Scorethemiddleofthetriangularpiecessotheywillbend,butdonotbreak.(Iftheydobreak,it’sOK.Youwilljusthavetomakeeverypieceupindividually,buttheoutcomewillbethesame!)
7.Rightsidestogether,backstitchthesilkpiecestogether,leavingthetopopen,tocreatetwopouchesforthecardboard.Turnrightsidesoutandpresstheseamssmooth.Insertthecardboardpiecesintotheircovers.
8.Foldtheseamallowanceinwardandwhipclosed.Youwantthesilktobetightandsmoothoverthecardboard.Whipstitchonesideseamofthehardbottompiecestogether(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
9.Nowlet’sbringthepiecestogether.Withtheinteriorofthehardbottomopen,laythetopofthereticule½to¾inch(1.3to1.9cm)downfromthetopedgeofthecardboard,liningupthesideseams,andpinningtuckstoeasetherestofthetopofthebagtothecardboardbottom.Hemstitchthetoptothebottom,makingsuretocatchalllayersofthetucks.Thisisabittricky,andit’sokayifit’smessy.Noonewilleverseeit.
10.Closethereticuleandcarefullywhipthehardbottomsideseamclosedfromtheoutside.Then,lineupandpinthesideseamofthetoptogetherandstitchclosedwitheitheranappliquestitchorfinerunningstitches(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).
11.Takeyourmetalliclaceandcutalengththatwillcoveroneofthefouredgesofthebottomofthereticuleincludingseamallowance.Foldtheseamallowanceoverthetopofthecardboardandstitchintoplace.Carefullycouchthetrimtotheback,takinggreatcaretokeepyourstitchesasinvisibleaspossible.Whenyoureachthebottom,tucktheextralaceintothehole.Repeatonalledgesofthebottomofthereticule.
12.Now,takeyourtasselsandinserttheloopintotheholeatthebottomofthecone,makingsurethatalltheseamallowancesfromthetrimandsilkcoversarealsoinserted.Whiptheholeclosedtosecurethetasselsandtrim.
13.Insertyourtwolengthsofribbonatthetop,soyoucanpullthebagclosed,andknottheends.
1790sThe“Frog”Reticule
Though “Frog” is not a technical name for this bag, the green silkreminded us of a cute little frog andwe couldn’t help ourselves! Thissmall and soft reticule canbe scaledup for a larger size, andyou canalsoembroideraprettydesignonthebodyofthereticulebeforeputtingittogether.
MATERIALS•¼yard(¼meter)silktaffeta•1yard(1meter)¼”(6mm)-widesilkribbonforties•4–8tassels•Silkthread(#30forseams2forhems)
ASSEMBLY1.Cutoutthepiecesfromtheprovidedpattern(here)andmeasuredown3inches(7.6cm)onbothsidesofbothpiecesatthetopofthereticule,mark,andfinelyhem.Foldandbastethetop¼inch(6mm)ofthepiecesdown.Foldthetopdownanother1inch(2.5cm)andfinelyhemstitch(10to12stitchesperinch[2.5cm]).Measureup¼to½inch(6mmto1.3cm)fromthehemmededge,anddoafinerunningstitchtocreatetheribbonchannelandruffleforthetopofthereticule.
2.Laybothpiecesrightsidestogetherandpin.
3.Mantuamaker’sseamthereticuletogether,andwhileyou’rebastingtheseam,ateachpointwhereyouwantthetassels,insertthembetweenthelayersbeforeyoumakeyourbastestitch.You’llwantthetasseltobeinsidethebag(becauseit’stherightside)andyou’llseetheloopthatholdsthetasseltogetherwhenyou’resewing.Foldandbastetheedgesandthetasselloop.Finishthemantuamaker’sseamofyourbag,beingsuretocatchyourtasselloopsasyousew.Thiskeepsthetasselssecureandkeepsthestringsoutofyourwaywhenyouusethebag.
4.Turnthebagrightsideoutandpresseverythingsmooth.Inserttheribbondrawstringsatthetopofyourbag.
Done!
GettingDressedandWearingYour1790sEnsemblewithStyle
ASSEMBLY1.Putonyourshift,stockings,shoesandstays.
2.Next,putonyourunder-petticoatbytyingthedrawstringatthecenterfront,justbelowthebust.
3.Ifyouarewearingachemisette,nowisthetimetoputiton,tyingitatthecenterfront.
4.Putonyourgownandpintheunder-bodiceofthegownintoplaceatthecenterfront,thentiethegowndrawstringatthecenterfrontandtuckthetailsintotheskirtfrontopening.Adjustthebodiceandchemisettetosuityourtastes.
5.PutonyourTurbanCap,CarolineHatorwrapyourturban.
6.Ifyouarewearingasash,putitonnow.Youcantucktheedgesofyourturbanintothesash.Thereareendlesswaystowearalongsashlikethisone.Wrapitaroundandaroundandtiewithabigbowatthebackorside.Wrapitaroundthehighwaistandupandovertheshouldersforadifferentlook.Allowtheendstotrailorloopthemup.Mostimportantly,havefun!
7.Grabyourreticuleandmuffandheadonoutthedoor!
Nowyou’rereadytogolookatartattheSalon!
Troubleshooting
GAPINGNECKLINECause: The shoulder straps are too loose, too long or on the bias andstretchingout.Solution: Be sure the shoulder straps are cut on the straight of grain.Recut ifnecessary.Refit the shoulder straps through thebackshoulderseams,pullinguptheexcesstight.Ifthenecklinestillgapesatthefront,adjusttheseamortakeasmalltucktosmooththefit.
BODICEFRONTSIDEWRINKLESCause:Thefrontbodicepiecesarecutonthestraight,andthestaysare
curvierinthefront.-or—Thewaistedgesaretoolong.Solution:Double-checkthatthefrontbodicepiecesarecutontheslightbias,recutifnecessary,orseeifyoucanadjustthefitofthecenterfrontseamtohavemorebias.-or—Clip and turn up the raw waist edge on the body and over all yourunderpinnings,pullingdowntowardthewaistandsmoothingthepiecesfromarmpittowaist.
BODICEFRONTARMPITWRINKLESCause:Thearmscyesaretootight.Solution: Carefully clip the armscye to release the tension and smooththewrinkles upward into the armpit.Do not overcut or youmight havemoreproblemsdowntheroad!
BUBBLYBODICEFRONTCause:Thebodicefrontpiecesarecutonthestraight,andyourstaysare“thrusty.”-or—Thebodiceneedssmoothingoverthebust.Solution:Firsttrysmoothingtheexcessfabricfromthesidetothecenterfront, pulling taught. Pin and redraw the center front line. This mayresult in a curved front edge, especially for larger busts and “thrusty”stays.-or—Recutyourbodicepiecessothecenterfrontisontheslightbias.
BUBBLYORLOOSEBACKPIECESCause:Thecenterbackpiecesarecutonthestraight.-or—Yourmodelissway-backed.Solution: Check that the back pieces are on the slight bias. Recut ifnecessary.-or—Onthebodyandoverall theunderpinnings,smooththepiecestowardthecenterbackseam,pinchinguptheexcess.Markthenewseamline.
SIDEBACKWRINKLESCause: The sidebackpieces are slightly twistedwhere they are joinedandarepulling.Solution: Release the side back seams prick stitches. On the body andover all the underpinnings, smooth the side back pieces downward tosmoothoutthewrinkles.Overlaptheturnededgeofthesidebackseamand repin. Remove from the body and prick stitch the new seam inplace.
WRINKLEDBACK—STRESSLINESCause:Thebodiceisoverfittedandtootight.Solution:Loosenup!Adjustyourpinningatthecenterfrontclosureor,ifnecessary, loosenthesideseams.Refit thesideseamsonthebodyandoveralltheunderpinnings.
SHOULDERSTRAPSFALLINGDOWNCause:Theshoulderstrapsaresettoowide.-or—Thesleeveheadistooshallowandispullingtheshoulderstrapofftheshoulder.-or—The shoulder straps have accidently been cut on the bias and havestretchedout.Solution: At the back shoulder seams, release and reset the shoulderstrapsatanarrowerangle,closertothecenterbackseam.-or—Remove the sleeves and recut or piece with a higher sleeve head.Remember,it’salwaysbettertohaveabitmoreinthesleeveheadthannotenough.-or—
Recutandrefitthestrapsonthestraightofgrain.
SLEEVESARETOOTIGHT
Cause:Thesleevesarecut/sewntoonarrow.Solution:Restitchtheseams,orrecutthesleeveswithmoreease.-or—Addatriangulargoreattheunderarmeitheratyoursleeveseamorcutintothesleeveattheunderarmandaddthegorethere.
SLEEVESARETWISTEDCause:Thesleeveispinnedorstitchedontwistedatthearmscye.Solution: Release the sleeve and reset, working the fitment until thetwistsareworkedout.-or—Recutthebottomofthesleevetoshortenit.
STRAIGHTSLEEVESARESTACKINGATTHEELBOWCause:Thesleevesaretoolong,causingstackingupatthecrookofthearm.Solution:Takeatuckupwardatthecrookofthearm,shorteningjustthefrontofthesleeve,andprickstitchintoplace.-or—Recutthebottomofthesleevetoshortenit.
SACQUESILHOUETTEISROUNDANDBUBBLYCause:Thesacquefrontskirtpanelsarecutstraightatthefrontandsideedges.Solution: The sacque front skirt panelsmust be cut on the straight ofgrainbutwiththesideseamatanangleandthefrontedgecutorfoldedback at an angle to expose the decorative petticoat. The correctsilhouetteistrapezoidalratherthanroundedorbulbous.
SACQUETRAINBUCKLESCause: The train folds up on itself due to too little fabric in the skirtcircumferenceatthehemcombinedwithmisplacedsidepleats.Solution: Add a gored panel at the side seam, between the front skirtpanelandthebackbreadth,thenre-pleattheskirt,workingthefullnessof the skirt toward the side-back seam. The side pleats that controlvolume over the pocket hoops should be placed further back than thetrueside-seam.
SAGGYSADSACQUEBACKCause:Thefabricistooheavyandispullingdownward.-or—Thepleatedbacklacksthethirdpleatsocollapsesinonitselfagainstthebackinsteadofflowingoutward.Solution:Reinforcethebindingatthetopedge.Alsosecurelystitchtheouterfabrictothebodiceliningunderthepleatsatthesideback.-or—Repleatthebacktoincludethethird,hiddenpleatasshownhere.
FRONTSKIRTPANELSBUCKLINGATWAISTCause: The skirt needs fitting at the curved waist edge. There is toomuchvolumejustbelowthewaistedge.Solution:Releasethetopedgeoftheskirtpanel.Onthebodiceandoverallunderpinnings,pullupwarduntil theskirthangssmoothly.Foldtheexcessoverorcutitoff,thenrestitchtheskirttothewaistedge.
SAGGYHOOPEDSILHOUETTECause: Thewidth of the top of the hoop is too long and is drooping,and/orthehoopsaretiedtoolowonthewaist.Solution:Tiethehoopsatyourtruewaist.-or—Shorten the topof thehoops tobring themuphigheron thehips.Seehereforourhooppattern.
PETTICOATISTOOSHORTINBACKORONTHESIDESCause: The petticoat breadth is cut all one length instead of with ashapedtoptofitoverunderpinnings(bum,pads,hoops,etc.).Solution: Measure over the bum or hoops, waist to floor. Cut thepetticoatandskirtpanelaccordingtothelongestmeasurement.Thencutor fold at the waist edge to level the hem over the underpinning.Petticoatsmaybe leveledonthebodyoronadress form.For levelingoverhoops,seehere.Forlevelingoverasplitbum,seehere.
Appendix
CITATIONS
HISTORICSTITCHESANDHOWTOSEWTHEM1.Rasmussen,Pernilla.Skräddaren,sömmerskanochmodet:Arbetsmetoderocharbetsdelningitillverkningenavkvinnligdräkt1770-1830,pg.188-189,NordiskaMuseetHandlinger,2010.
2.ALady,TheWorkwoman’sGuide:AGuideto19thCenturyDecorativeArts,FashionandPracticalCrafts1838,page2,PiperPublishingLLC,2002.
CHAPTER2:THEENGLISHGOWN,1740S1.Waugh,Norah.CutofWomen’sClothes1600–1930,MPGBooksGroup,1968.
2.Crowston,ClareHaru.FabricatingWomen,pg.40,DukeUniversityPress,2001.
3.TheCompleteVocabularyinEnglishandFrench,andinFrenchandEnglish…,pg.85,1785.Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.
4.Boyer,Abel.Boyer’sRoyalDictionaryabridged.Intwoparts.1.FrenchandEnglish2.EnglishtoFrench,“Fourreau,”1777,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.
5.TheCompleatFrenchMasterforLadiesandGentlemen,pg.173,1744,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.
6.Buck,Ann,DressinEighteenth-CenturyEngland,pg.187,Holmes&
MeierPublishers,1979.
7.Montgomery,Florence.TextilesinAmerica:1650–1870,W.W.Norton&CompanyInc.,2007.
8.AmericanSheepIndustryAssociation,“FastFacts,AboutAmericanWoolIndustry”https://www.sheepusa.org/ResearchEducation_FastFacts,November2016.
9.Buck,Ann.DressinEighteenth-CenturyEngland,pg.187,Holmes&MeierPublishers,1979.
10.May,JohnJune,1749,BritishMuseum,1850,1109.32.
CHAPTER3:THESACQUEGOWN1760S-1770S1.APortraitofaLady,1768,FrancisCotes,TateMuseumLondon,N04689.
2.Arnold,Janet.PatternsofFashion:Englishwomen’sDressesandTheirConstructionc.1660–1860,pg.25,Macmillan/QSM,1964.
3.TheworksofLaurenceSterneM.A.Insevenvolumes,Sterne,Laurence(1713-1768),London:printedfortheproprietors,1783,Volume7.
4.Thisinformationisasummarizationofthreetofouryearsofcarefulstudyoforiginalimages,andperiodhairdressingmanuals,magazinesandnewspapers.
5.Whenstudyingoriginalsilkgowns,skirtpanelswereoftensewnselvagetoselvage.Theirmeasurementsconsistentlyrangefrom18to24inches(45.7to60.9cm)wide.
6.TheUnwelcomeCustomer,JohnCollet&JamesCaldwell,August17,1772,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,1953-205.
7.TheLoveLetter,JeanHonoréFragonard,c.early1770s,MetropolitanMuseumofArt,NewYork,49.7.49.
CHAPTER4:THEITALIANGOWN,1770S-1790S1.Wenman,J.TheMagazineàlamode,orFashionablemiscellany,October1777,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.
2.Cruttwell,R.ThenewBathguide;or,Usefulpocketcompanion…Anewedition,correctedandmuchenlarged,FirstEdition:1777,Reprinted1784,Eighteenth-CenturyCollectionsOnline,November2016.
3.QueenCharlotteworean“Italiannight-gownandpetticoatofwhitesattinandsilvergauze,trimmedwithVandykesofgreenfoilofrichgoldtrimandtassels.”March28–30,1792,TheEveningMail,BurneyPapersDigitalArchive,November2016.
4.TheTownandCountryMagazine,December1776,pg.650,OxfordUniversityviaGoogleBooks,March2017.
5.Watt,Melinda.“TextileProductioninEurope:Printed,1600–1800.”InHeilbrunnTimelineofArtHistory.NewYork:TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2000–.http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_p/hd_txt_p.htm(October2003)6.Sardar,Marika.“IndianTextiles:TradeandProduction.”InHeilbrunnTimelineofArtHistory.NewYork:TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt,2000–.http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm(October2003)7.Goadby,R.TheWeeklyMiscellany;Or,InstructiveEntertainer:ContainingaCollectionofSelectPieces,BothinProseandVerse;CuriousAnecdotes,InstructiveTales,andIngeniousEssaysonDifferentSubjects,Volume7,December16,1776,NewYorkPublicLibrary,March2017.
8.TheBumShop,c.1785,MetropolitanMuseumofArt.NewYork,1970.541.12.
9.VanCleave,Kendra,andBrookeWelborn.“VeryMuchtheTasteandVariousaretheMakes:ReconsideringtheLateEighteenth-CenturyRobeàlaPolonaise,”DressVol39No.1,2013,CostumeSocietyofAmerica.
10.TheFairPenitent,1781,BritishMuseum,2010,7081.1022.11.Plenty/L’Abondance,c.1780,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,1980-232.
CHAPTER5:THEROUNDGOWN,1790S1.Bissonette,Anne,andSarahNash.“TheRe-BirthofVenus:Neo-ClassicalFashionandtheAphroditeKallipygos,”Dress:Vol41No.1,2015.
2.Thestudyoforiginalgarmentsshowsthesubtleriseinwaistlinesoverthelate1780sandearly1790s.Forexample:PrintedCottonJacketandPetticoat,c.1790,ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,AccessionNo.1990-10showsalterationsofraisingthewaistapprox.1inch(2.5cm)fromthepreviousconstruction,withwhatappearstobekeepingeverythingelseaboutthegarmentintact.
3.Huenlich,R.HowtoDistinguishQuicklyCottonfromLinen,TheMelliand,Vol.2,No.11(February1931),2pages.PostedDecember11,2002,UniversityofArizona.
4.England,John.IrishLinen,TheIrishLinenStory.http://johnengland.com/irish-linen-story/,March2017.
5.Arnold,Janet.PatternsofFashion:Englishwomen’sDressesandTheirConstructionc.1660–1860,pg.46,Macmillan/QSM,1964.
6.SnowshillWadeCostumeCollection,Gloucestershire,DressSkirt,1790-1800,NT1348737.1.
7.Heideloff,N.GalleryofFashion:Volume2,1795,BunkaGakuenDigitalArchivesofRareMaterials,AccessedJanuary2017.
8.ALady,TheWorkwoman’sGuide:AGuideto19thCenturyDecorativeArts,FashionandPracticalCrafts1838,pg.158,PiperPublishingLLC,2002.
WORKSCITEDCountess Ekaterina Vasilievna Skaronskaya, Élisabeth Louise Vigée LeBrun,1790,InstitutdeFrance,MuséeJacquemart-André,Paris(MJAP-P578)LadyMaryCunliffe,FrancisCotes,1768,WalkerArtGallery,WAG1514MariaLuisadiBorbone,PrincessoftheTwoSicilies,ÉlisabethLouiseVigéeLe Brun, 1790, Museo di Capodimonte, Naples (OA 7228)May, JohnJune,1749,BritishMuseum,1850,1109.32
Plenty/L’Abondance, Carington Bowles, 1780, Colonial WilliamsburgFoundation,1980-232PortraitofaLady,FrancisCotes,1768,TateMuseum,N04689Portrait of Marquise d’Orvilliers, Jacques-Louis David, 1790, LouvreMuseum,RF2418Princess Louisa and Princess Caroline, Francis Cotes, 1767, The RoyalCollection,RCIN404334Self-Portrait,ÉlisabethLouiseVigéeLeBrun,1790,GalleriedegliUffizi,CorridoioVasariano,Florence,1890,n.1905September, Thomas Burford, 1745, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation,1988-291,9
EXTANTGOWNSCITEDNote:Thegarmentslistedbelowareaselectionoftheoriginalmuseumpiecesthathavebeencarefullystudiedandexaminedinpersonbytheauthors.Thesegarmentswerenotonpublicdisplayatthetime,givingtheauthorsunprecedentedaccesstoconstructionanddesigndetails.Thislistdoesnotincludetheassortmentoforiginalpiecesthathavebeenstudiedthatareheldinprivatecollections.
LOSANGELESCOUNTYMUSEUMOFARTLACMACottonItalianGownM.80.138LACMAPink/GreenSackM.2007.211.720A-BLACMASilkRedingoteM.57.24.9LACMARidingHabitM.82.16.2a-c
THECOLONIALWILLIAMSBURGFOUNDATIONCWF2009-43.3CWF1996-95CWF1991-449A-CCWF1989-446
CWF1989-330CWF1991-520CWF1991-520CWF1991-519CWF1983-230CWF2000-86CWF1947-511(4464)CWF1988-223CWF1990-10CWF1991-450CWF1991-470CWF1951-150CWF1991-466A&BCWF1991-474,ACWF1983-233
GLASGOWMUSEUMS/THEBURRELLCOLLECTION1932.51.oE.1940.47.c
NORDISKAMUSEET,STOCKHOLMNM.0186311NM.0222648A-ENM.0020602NM.0158629
BIBLIOGRAPHYANDFURTHERREADING“AmericanSheepIndustry|FastFacts.”AmericanSheepIndustry|FastFacts. Accessed January 10, 2017.http://www.sheepusa.org/ResearchEducation_FastFacts“What Makes Wool So Special?” Accessed January 10, 2017.http://www.woolrevolution.com/virtues.htmlALady,TheWorkwoman’sGuide:AGuideto19thCenturyDecorativeArts,
FashionandPracticalCrafts,PiperPublishingLLC,1838/2002.Akiko Fukai, Tamami Suoh, Miki Iwagami, Reiko Koga, and Rii Nie.Fashion:AHistoryfromthe18th–20thCentury,Taschen,2005.AldenO’Brien,AnAgreeableTyrant:FashionAftertheRevolutionExhibitionCatalogue,DARMuseum,2016.Anne Buck. Dress in Eighteenth-Century England, Holmes & MeierPublishersInc.,1979.BiancaM.DuMortierandNinkeBloemberg,Accessorize!250ObjectsofFashion&Desire,Rijksmuseum&YaleUniversityPress,2012.ClareHaruCrowston.FabricatingWomen:TheSeamstressesofOldRegimeFrance1675–1791,DukeUniversityPress,2001.Cristina Barreto, Anita Lawrence,Martin Lancaster, Elizabeth Tauroza,andMichaelDavidHaggerty.NapoleonandtheEmpireofFashion:1795–1815.Milano:Skira,2010.FlorenceM.Montgomery,TextilesinAmerica1650–1870,W.W.Norton&Company,2007.Gail Marsh. 18th Century Embroidery Techniques, Guild of MasterCraftsmanPublicationsLtd,2006.Harold Koda and Andrew Bolton. Dangerous Liaisons: Fashion andFurniture in the EighteenthCentury,MetropolitanMuseumofArt&YaleUniversityPress,2006.Janet Arnold. Patterns of Fashion: Englishwomen’s Dresses and TheirConstructionc.1660–1860,Macmillan/QSM,1964.John Styles. The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in EighteenthCenturyEngland,YaleUniversityPress,2007.John Styles. Threads of Feeling: The London Foundling Hospital’s TextileTokens1740–70,SynergieGroupUK,2010.JosephBaillio, Katharine Baetjer, Paul Lang, and EkaterinaDeryabina.VigéeLeBrun.NewYork:MetropolitanMuseumofArt,2016.KimberlyChrisman-Campbell.FashionVictims:DressattheCourtofLouisXVIandMarie-Antoinette.NewHaven:YaleUniversityPress,2015.Linda Baumgarten.Eighteenth-Century Clothing atWilliamsburg, ColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,1993.
Linda Baumgarten, John Watson, and Florine Carr. Costume Close-Up:Clothing Construction and Pattern 1750–1790, Colonial WilliamsburgFoundation/QSM,1999.Linda Baumgarten. What Clothes Reveal: The Language of Clothing inColonialandFederalAmerica,TheColonialWilliamsburgFoundationandYaleUniversityPress,2002.Marika Sardar. “Indian Textiles: Trade and Production.” In HeilbrunnTimeline of Art History. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art,2000–.http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/intx/hd_intx.htm(October2003).MelindaWatt. “Textile Production in Europe: Printed, 1600–1800.” InHeilbrunnTimelineofArtHistory.NewYork:TheMetropolitanMuseumofArt, 2000–. http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/txt_p/hd_txt_p.htm(October2003).NancyBradfield.CostumeinDetail,1730–1930.Hollywood,CA:Costume&FashionPress,2009.NorahWaugh.Cut ofWomen’s Clothes 1600–1930, MPG Books Group,1968.Pauline Rushton. 18th Century Costume in National Museums Liverpool,NationalMuseumsLiverpool,2004.Pernilla Rasmussen. Skräddaren, sömmerskan och modet: Arbetsmetoderoch arbetsdelning i tillverkningen av kvinnlig dräkt 1770–1830, NordiskaMuseetHandlinger,2010.Sharon Sadako Takeda and Kaye Durland Spilker. Fashioning Fashion:EuropeanDressinDetail1700–1915,LosAngelesCountyMuseumofArtandDelmonicoBooks,2012.SoniaAshmore.Muslin,VictoriaandAlbertPublishing,2012.Victoria and Albert Museum, British Textiles 1700 to the Present, V&APublishing,2010.
SupplierList
SHOES,STOCKINGSANDBUCKLESAmericanDuchessInc.,www.AmericanDuchess.com
FABRICS,SILKRIBBONANDTHEBESTSILKTHREADFORDRESSMAKINGBritexFabrics,SanFrancisco,www.britexfabrics.com
FABRICS,NECK-HANDKERCHIEFS,THREADS,PATTERNSANDASSORTEDNOTIONSBurnley&TrowbridgeCompany,www.burnleyandtrowbridge.com
FABRICS,PATTERNSANDSOMENOTIONSWilliamBooth,Draper,www.wmboothdraper.com
FABRICSilkBaron,www.silkbaron.comPureSilks,www.puresilks.usRenaissanceFabrics,www.renaissancefabrics.netMoodFabricsInc,www.moodfabrics.com
Acknowledgments
ABBY’SACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Iwouldnothavebeenabletocoauthorthisbookifitwasn’tformyexperienceworkingfortheColonialWilliamsburgFoundation,specificallytheMargaretHunterMillineryShop.JaneaWhitacre,MarkHutter,BrookeWelborn,NealHurst,SarahWoodyardandMikeMcCartyarenotonlymyfriendsbutfellowscholarsinthefield.TheexchangeofinformationbetweenusthroughoutmyyearsatColonialWilliamsburghavehelpedshapethisbook.Also,mygratitudegoesouttoLindaBaumgarten,theformercuratorofCostumeandTextilesatColonialWilliamsburg,andAngelaBurnleyforbeingmymentorsandfriends.A
hugethankyoutooureditor,LaurenKnowles,andtheincrediblestaffatPageStreetPublishingforworkingwithusthroughthisprocess.Mydeepestloveandgratitudetomyfamilyfortheirloveandsupport,specificallytomymother,SusanMeeks,foralltheStarbucksgiftcardsandsmallgiftstokeepupmorale,andtomycoauthor,Lauren,forincludingmeinthisonce-in-a-lifetimeopportunity.Finally,toMaggieRoberts,becauseyouarearockstar,andwecouldn’thavedonethisbookwithoutyoursupport.
LAUREN’SACKNOWLEDGMENTS
Iwouldliketothanktheamazinglysupportivehistoricalcostumingcommunityacrosstheworld,withoutwhichnoneofthiswouldbepossibleorneeded.Also,thankyoutoChrisStowell,whoputupwithourmesses;MaggieRoberts,forhelpingusmakethem;andAlbertRobertsforgraciouslylettingushaveher.Wewouldalsoliketo
acknowledgetheMetropolitanMuseumofArtandLosAngelesCountyMuseumofArtfortheirsupportiveandprogressivepoliciesinsharingtheircollectionsandmakingthemavailableforpublicuse.Additionally,we’dliketothanktheauthorsandresearchersofourcollectivepasts—JanetArnold,NancyBradfield,LindaBaumgarten,NorahWaugh—whoseworksweconstantlyreferbackto,andtheteamatPageStreetPublishingforgivingustheopportunitytojointheranks.Finally,IwouldliketothankAbbyCox,whohasbeenateacher,friendandpartnerthroughoutmyhistoricalcostumingjourney.
Index
Theindexthatappearedintheprintversionofthistitledoesnotmatchthe pages in your eBook. Please use the search function on youreReadingdevicetosearchfortermsof interest.Foryourreference, thetermsthatappearintheprintindexarelistedbelow.
appliquestitchapron1740sorganzaandlaceruffled
armscyes
backpadbackstitchblockprintingbodiceEnglishgownItaliangownroundgownsacquegowntroubleshootingwrinkles
bows5-loop1780s
bubblybodicefront
bubblyorloosebackpiecesbustdarts
cap1740searly1780sorganzaandlaceVigéeLeBrunturbancapCarolinehatchemisetteshirt-styleV-neckedruffledcorsetscrosslacingcuffseighteenth-centuryEnglishgownpleatedcuffsshapedstraight
draping
edgehemstitchedgestitchelbowrufflesEnglishgownapronassemblyattachingtheskirtsbodicecapchoicesforfabricfor
firstfittinggettingdressedandwearingmaterialsformittsneckhandkerchiefpetticoatsecondfittingsleevesandcuffsstomacherstrawhatundergarmentsEnglishstitch
fabricscrapsfacedhemfalserumpsfellingfitting5-loopbowsflounces“Frog”reticule
gapingnecklineGeorgiansilhouettegiantfurmuffgownsEnglishItalianmantuaroundsacquegriddedpatterns
hairstyling,forsacquegownhandkerchief,neckhatsCarolinehatsilk-covered“brain”hatstrawhat
hems,facedhemstitchwithbastingherringbonestitchhistoricstitcheshoops
Italiangownattachingtheskirtsbodicecapforchoicesforfabricforfalserumpfinalfittingfirstfittinggettingdressedandwearingmaterialsfornecktuckerandelbowrufflespoufsandbowsruffledapronforsilk-covered“brain”hatforsilkpetticoatsleeves
lacetuckerlinen
mantuagownmantuamaker’sseammittsmock-upsmuffs
narrowhemneckhandkerchiefnecklace,ribbonchokernecktucker
organzaandlaceapronorganzaandlacecaporganzaandlacetreblestackedsleeveflouncespaperpatternspatternspetenl’airpetticoatsEnglishgownunder-petticoatsacquesilktroubleshootingpiecingpinkedtrimpleatedcuffspoufsprickstitchprintedcottons
quilterweightthreadreticule“Frog”reticuleSundaeBestreticuleribbonchokernecklaceRobealaFrancaiseRobeal’Anglaiserolledhemroundgownbackpadunder-bodiceCarolinehatforchoicesforfabricfor
finalfittingfinishingfirstfitting“Frog”reticuleforgettingdressedandwearinggiantfurmuffforlinenturbanwrapformaterialsforover-bodiceunder-petticoatsashforsettingthesleevesandfinishingbodiceshirt-stylechemisetteforskirtsandsleeves
SundaeBestreticuleforVigéeLeBrunturbancapforV-neckedruffledchemisetteforruffledapron
ruffleselbowtreblestackedsleeverunningbackstitch
runningstitch
sacquegown5-loopbowsbodicechoicesforfabricforfirstfittinggettingdressedandwearinghairstylingforhemandtrimlacetuckermaterialsfororganzaandlaceapronorganzaandlacecaporganzaandlacetreblestackedsleeveflounces
petticoatpinkedtrimribbonchokernecklacesecondfitting
sidehoopsskirtpanelssleevesstomacherthirdfittingtroubleshooting
saggyhoopedsilhouettesashserpentinetrimshapedcuffsshiftsshirt-stylechemisetteshortsacqueshoulderstrapsfallingdownsidebackwrinklessidehoopssilhouettessilksilk-covered“brain”hatsilkpetticoatssilktaffetasilkthreadskirtsEnglishgownItaliangownroundgownsacquegowntroubleshooting
sleeveflouncessleeverufflessleeveseighteenth-centuryEnglishgownItaliangownroundgown
sacquegownstackingatelbowtighttroubleshootingtwistedspirallacingstaysstitchesstomacherEnglishgownsacquestraightcuffsstrawhatstrokedgathersSundaeBestreticule
threadweightstoiletrimlackof,onItaliangownspinkedserpentinetroubleshootingturbancapturbanwrapturbanwrappingtechniqueunder-bodiceundergarments1740s1760s1780s1790sEnglishgownpetticoatfalserumpsunder-petticoat
sacquepetticoatsidehoopssilkpetticoatunder-petticoatunfourreau
VigéeLeBrunturbancapV-neckedruffledchemisettewhipgatherwhipstitchwoolworstedwoolwrinkledback-stresslineswrinklesbodicefrontarmpitbodicefrontsidesideback
Biographies
ABBY’SBIOAbby’spassionfordresshistoryandsewingstartedincollegewhilestudyingarthistory,theatreandhistory.Fromthereshepursuedherpassion,studyingDecorativeArtsandDesignHistoryattheUniversityofGlasgow(MLitt2009),andwasabletobeginputtingherpassionintoherworkwhileemployedattheColonialWilliamsburgFoundation.HerfinalthreeyearsworkingfortheFoundationwerespentattheMargaretHunterMillineryShop,servingasanapprenticemilliner/mantuamaker.Thereshelearnedandstudiedeighteenth-centurydressmakingtechniques.AbbynowservesasVice-PresidentofAmericanDuchessandRoyalVintageShoesinReno,NV.
LAUREN’SBIOLaurenStowellstartedbloggingin2009asafunwaytodocumentlearninghistoricalcostuming.Whileshelovesagreatmanyperiodsofdress,fromthesixteenthcenturyallthewaythroughtheearly1960s,Lauren’struelovehasalwaysbeeneighteenth-centuryclothing.In2011,togetherwithherhusband,Chris,Laurenbegandesigningandofferingreproductioneighteenth-centuryshoesforhistoricalcostumersandreenactors,whichquicklygrewintoafull-timebusinessmanufacturingshoes,boots,silkstockings,shoebucklesandotheraccessoriesforallperiodsfromtheRenaissancetotheEdwardianera.Throughoutthistime,Laurencontinuedtosewandblogabouthistoriccostume,experimenting,failing,succeedingandalwayslearningmoreaboutoldclothingandhowitwaswornandlivedin.
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Contents
TitlePageCopyrightNoticeDedicationWhatThisBookIsAllAboutSoYouWanttoSewanEighteenth-CenturyGown,Eh?Patterns:PaperorGriddedorDraped?OhMy!FittingYourMock-UpPiecingIsPeriod,Period
HistoricStitchesandHowtoSewThemRunningStitchBackstitchRunningBackstitchPrickStitchHemStitchwithBastingNarrowHemRolledHemEdgeStitch/EdgeHemStitchAppliqueStitchWhipstitchWhipGatherHerringboneStitchStrokedGathersFellingTheEnglishStitch
Mantua-Maker’sSeam
TheEnglishGown,1740sOurChoicesfortheEnglishGownAnOdetoWool1740sUndies–BasicUnder-Petticoat1740sTheEnglishGownPetticoat1740sTheEnglishGownStomacher1740sTheEnglishGownTheBodiceFirstFittingandAttachingtheSkirtsSleevesandCuffsSecondFittingandFinishingUp
1740sNeckHandkerchief1740sApron1740sCap1740sMitts1740sSimpleStrawHatHowtoGetDressedandWearYourEnglishGown
TheSacqueGown,1760s–1770sOurChoicesfortheSacqueGownANoteonHairStylingforyourSacqueGownOhSweet,SweetSilk1760sUndies—SideHoops1760sTheSacquePetticoat1760sPinkedTrim!1760sTheSacqueStomacher1760s5-LoopBows
1760sTheSacqueGownTheBodiceandFirstFittingSkirtPanelsandSecondFittingSleeves,ThirdFitting,HemandTrim
1760sRibbonChokerNecklace1760sOrganzaandLaceApron1760s–1770sOrganzaandLaceCap1760sOrganzaandLaceTrebleStackedSleeveFlounces1760sLaceTuckerHowtoGetDressedandWearYourSacquewithStyle
TheItalianGown,1770s–1790sOurChoicesfortheItalianGownPrintedCottonDosandDon’ts1780sUndies—TheFalseRump1780sSilkPetticoatOvertheFalseRump1780sTheItalianGownBodiceandFirstFittingFinishingtheBodiceandAttachingtheSkirtsTheSleevesandFinalFitting
Early1780sCap1780sPoufsandBows1780sSilk-Covered“Brain”HatEarly1780sRuffledApron1780sNeckTuckerandElbowRufflesHowtoGetDressedandWearYourItalianGownwithStyle
TheRoundGown,1790sOurChoicesfortheRoundGown
LearningtoLoveLinen1790sUndies—Under-PetticoatandBackPad1790sTheRoundGown
TheUnder-BodiceandFirstFittingSkirtsandSleevesSettingtheSleevesandFinishingtheBodiceOver-BodiceandSkirtFront,ThirdFittingandFinishing
1790sSash1790sV-NeckedRuffledChemisette1790sShirt-StyleChemisette1790s“VigéeLeBrun”TurbanCap1790sLinenTurbanWrap
1790sTurbanWrapping1790sTheCarolineHat1790sTheGiantFurMuff1790sThe“SundaeBest”Reticule1790sThe“Frog”ReticuleGettingDressedandWearingYour1790sEnsemblewithStyle
TroubleshootingAppendix
CitationsWorksCitedExtantGownsCitedBibliographyandFurtherReading
SupplierListAcknowledgmentsIndexAbouttheAuthorsCopyright
Copyright©2017LaurenStowellandAbbyCox
Firstpublishedin2017byPageStreetPublishingCo.27CongressStreet,Suite105Salem,MA01970www.pagestreetpublishing.com
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