Post on 07-Apr-2018
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FORMULATINGWITHSURFACTANTSfromhttp://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com 1
Whattheheckisasurfactant?Thewordsurfactantisshortfor"surfaceactive
agent"andhasahydrophilic(water-loving)headandalipophilic(oil-loving)or
hydrophobic(water-hating)tail.Thismeansitcanbringthingstogetherlikeoil
andwater.Soanemulsifier,likeemulsifyingwaxorIncroquatBTMS,isasurfactant.
ButI'mmoreinterestedintalkingaboutsurfactantsasdetergents,thosefoaming,
lathering,bubblyingredientsweusetocreatebubblebaths,bodywashes,
shampoos,andothercleansingitemsfortheshowerortub.
Therearefourmaincategoriesofsurfactantswewouldusewhenmakingbubbly
items....
Anionic:Negativelycharged,thesewouldbethebaseofyoursurfactantmix.
Theyofferalotoflatheranddetergencytothemix,excellentfoamers.Somecan
beirritatingtoskin,soyoucanaddotheringredientsformildness.
Amphoteric:NegativelyorpositivelychargeddependinguponthepHlevel.The
onewe'llbeusingthemostiscocamidopropylbetaine(AmphosolCG).Itadds
mildnessandviscositytomix,butwillofferlessfoamthantheanionic
surfactants,whichiswhywedon'tuseitonitsown.
Non-ionic:Thesearenotgreatfoamers,andareusedprimarilyasemulsifiersin
yourbubblyproducts.Polysorbate20isgreatforaddingsmallamountsof
fragranceoressentialoilstoyourcreations.Polysorbate80isgreatforadding
oilstoshampoos.Bothwillreducethefoamyouseeinyourcreationjustslightly.
Cationic:Thesearepositivelycharged,andaregenerallyfoundinconditioning
ingredients(IncroquatBTMS,IncroquatCR,polyquat7orCondition-eze7,
honeyquat,cetrimoniumchloride).Thesedoreducesomeofthefoamingofyour
bodywash(forinstance),sousingitat1to2%shouldofferyourconditioning
featureswithoutreducingthefoamtoomuch.
SURFACTANTS–BUBBLY,LATHERY,FOAMYFUN!
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Therearedozensofsurfactantstochoosefromwhencreating;thelistbeloware
surfactantsIliketouseandonesIcanfindlocally.
Cocamidopropylbetaine(AmphosolCG,foundatVoyageur):Amphoteric.A
humectant.Goodfoamingproperties.Goodflashfoamandfoamstabilization
properties.Addingthisamphoterictoananionicmixwillreducetheharshnessoftheothersurfactantsandchangestheviscosity.Itisagoodanti-staticforhair.
Poortomildcleanser.Goodwheremildnessisvital--babiesorsensitiveskin--
butprimarilyusedasasecondarysurfactant.
Bioterge804(foundatVoyageur):Anionic.Agentlesurfactant.Goodcleansing,
fluffylather.Ifindthisoneisgreatforoilyhairshampoos.
BiotergeAS-40(Sodiumc-14-16olefinsulfonate,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.
Goodcleansing.Excellentflashfoam.
BiotergeAS-90:(sodiumc-14-16olefinsulfonate,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.
PowderformofAS-40.
SLeS(SodiumLaurethSulphate,foundatVoyageurandAquarius):Anionic.A
verymildcleanserwithlowirritationproperties.Richfoam,goodcleansing.I
generallyuseSteolC-230fromVoyageur.
BSB(PEG-80SorbitanLaurate,SodiumTridecethSulfate,Cocamidopropyl
Betaine,DisodiumLauroamphodiacetate,PEG-150Distearate,SodiumLaureth-13Carboxylate,Quaternium-15,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.Verygentlewithmild
cleansing.Verythick,soaddsviscosity.UsetheHerbarie’sBabyBlendinplaceof
BSB.
SCI(sodiumcocoylisethionate,foundatAquariusasJordapronprilled):Anionic.
Noodlesorflakes.Mildcleansing.Offersarichcreamyfoam--hairfeels
conditionedafterwards.Foambooster.Thickensmixtures.
SLSa(sodiumlaurylsulfoacetate,LanthanolatVoyageurorSuds&Scents,SLSaatVoyageur):Anionic.Powderform.Mildandnon-drying(Idisagreethe"non
drying"part.)Highvolumeandlonglastingfoam.ProvidesLOTSofbubbles.
biodegradable.
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DecylGlucose(Plantapon2000,foundatVoyageur):Amildsurfactantmade
fromglucoseandcoconutoil.Wouldbegreatformildcleansing.Itdoeshavea
highpH,soifyouhaveapHmeterorpHstrips,usethemwhenformulatingwith
thisproduct!Itisplantderived,soitissuitableforveganproducts,andis100%
biodegradable.(Asanote,I'mnotsurewhyPlantaponisdescribedasveganbecauseit'snotliketheothersurfactantsaremadeofpork!)
LSBSurfactant (SodiumLaurylSulfoacetateandDisodiumLaureth
Sulfosuccinate,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.Verymildandagoodsubstitutionfor
BSB.Asitcontainsasulfosuccinate,itisagreatdegreaserandwouldbe
wonderfulforuseinproductsdesignedforoilyhairandbodyproducts.Wouldbe
niceinafacialcleanser.YoucansubstituteDLSmildforthissurfactantorababy
blendsurfactant.
DLSMild(disodiumlaurethsulfosuccinate):Anionic.Mildcleanser,goodfor
sensitiveskin.Agoodco-surfactantforoilyhair.Skinfeelssoftandconditioned.
SMCTaurate(sodiummethylcocoyltaurate):Anionic.Highfoaming.Mild
cleanser.Primaryorco-surfactant.
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FORMULATINGWITHSURFACTANTS!
Ifyouareformulatingfromscratch,askyourselfhowconcentratedyouwantthe
mixtobe.Iusuallyusebetween40to50%surfactants,withtherestbeingwater
andothergoodiessuitabletotheproduct,likeproteinsorhairlovingsilicones!
(Asanote,somesuggestionsaremadeaboutbeing20to40%mixtureofsurfactantstowater,butIlikemyproductstobeveryconcentratedsoIcanuse
less.)
Ifyouarecreatingabubblebath,you'llwanttousesurfactantswithgoodflash
foam(cocobetaineorAS-90),foamstabilization(cocobetaine),foamboosting
(cocobetaineorSCI),longlastingbubbles(SLSa),andhighvolumebubbles
(SLSa).
Ifyouwanttocreateashampooforoilyhair,considersomethinglikeBioterge804(goodcleansing,fluffylather)andDLSMildorLSB(sulfosuccinatesaregreat
atdegreasing)orSCI(richcreamyfoam,conditioning).Fordryhair,youmight
wanttoincludecocobetaineforthehumectant-yqualities.Forababyshampoo,
mildisthekey--BSB,LSB,orDLSMild.
Ifyouwantabodywash,you'llwantmildtogoodcleansingwithfluffylather,so
considercocobetaine(itreducesirritationandthickensthemixture),Bioterge
AS-90(goodflashfoam,goodcleanser)andBSB(thickens,gentlecleanser).
Ifyouwantafacialcleanser,youwillwantmildnesswithouthugebubblesor
lather,andsomethingthatreducesirritationwouldbeagoodthingaswell,soI'd
choosetheBSBorDLSmildforthemildcleansing,orImightusetheAS-40fora
strongercleanser.AlthoughtheSMCtauratelookslikeagoodidea,itisvery
foamy,whichishardtorinseoff!Ialwaysaddadashofcocobetainetomakeit
milder,sothatwouldbeagoodinclusion--it'sahumectant,amildcleanser,and
reducesirritation,butIdon'twantmuchbecauseIdon'twantatonoffoam.
Andifyouwantedasolidsurfactantmixture,likeabubblebarorshampoobar,
you'dwanttousemostlythepowdered,noodled,orflakedsurfactantslikeSCIorSLSa,withasplashofliquidsurfactant(IlikeDLSMild,Bioterge804,orLSBfor
myoilyhair)toenhancethemixture.Obviously,youaren'tgoingtohavethe
50:50mixofsurfactantstowaterhere.You'regoingtousea100%non-water
mixture,withabout60to80%solidsurfactants,therestliquidsurfactantsor
goodiesforyourhair(likeproteins,silicones,andconditioners).
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BODYWASH
Youcanleavealotoftheingredientsinthisbodywashout–really,
theonlynecessarythingsarethesurfactants,thewater,theglycerin
(biggerbubbles),andpreservative.Butweaddthecationic
polymerslikeCondition-eze7orhoneyquattomakethismore
moisturizing.Andthepanthenolissogoodforskin!Andthehydrolyzedproteinmakesitfeelmoremoisturizing.Soleaveout
whatyouwant…justrememberweneedthesurfactants!
37.5%water
15%AmphosolCG(cocobetaine)
15%AmphosolAS-90orSLeS
15%BSBorLSB
5%aloevera
3%glycerin3%Condition-eze7
2%cromoistorotherhydrolyzedprotein
2%panthenol
1%fragranceoressentialoil
1%liquidCrothix
0.5%preservative
Colouring,ifwanted
Inacontainer,mixthesurfactantstogetherwell,thenaddthewater.(Youcan
heatthewaterslightlytomakeiteasiertomix).Whenthesurfactantsaremixed
together,addtherestoftheingredients-EXCEPTTHECROTHIX-andblendwell.
Trynottogetatonofbubblesatthetop.Letitrestuntilthemixtureisclearofthe
bubblesandchecktheviscosity.Ifyouarehappywithit,bottleit!Ifyouwantit
thicker,startat0.5%liquidCrothixandstirwell,ensuringyouhaveblendedit
completely.Ifyoustillwantitthicker,addanother0.5%Crothix.Youcangoupto
2%Crothixifyouwish.
Youcanchoosetocolouryourbodywashifyoulike.Iliketo,soIusecoloursI
boughtatthesupplyshopforthispurpose.Don'tusemuch-youjustwantahintofcolour!
Whenfragrancingyourbodywash,you’llnoticesomefragranceoilsmight
thickenit–usuallylavenderbasedonesbutalsocitrusones–andsomemight
thinitout–usuallyvanillabasedones.Keeparecordofwhatdoeswhatsoyou
don’thavetoplaytheCrothixgameeverysingletimeyouwanttomakeabody
wash!
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BUBBLEBATH!
Ourmaingoalwhencreatingabubblebathistoformulate
somethingwithbubbles–bubblesshowupwhenwepourit
intothewater,theygrowbigandfoamy,thenstickaroundso
youcanenjoyalovelyscentedsoak.Weobviouslyneedsurfactants,andwe’lladdsomeglycerintokeepthebubbles
coming!Crothixisnecessaryasathickener–wedon’twantto
pouratonintothetubandwasteit!
BUBBLEBATHRECIPE
36.5%water
30%AmphosolCG
22%BiotergeAS-40
6%BSBupto2%Crothix
1%glycerin
0.5%to1%preservative(GermallPlusorGermaben)
2%fragranceoil
Colouring,ifdesired
Mixyoursurfactantstogetheruntilwellblended,thenaddthewaterandblend
well.Addtheglycerin,preservative,fragranceoil,andcolouringandblendwell,
butnottoowellaswedon'twantatonofbubbles.Letitrestforabit-sayan
hourorso-andchecktheviscosity.Ifyouarehappywithit,bottleandlabelit.If
youaren'thappywithit,thenadd1%liquidCrothixandstirwell.Ifyoustill
aren'thappywithit,addanother0.5%Crothix.Youcangoupto2%Crothix,but
ensureyoustirverywellinbetweenadditions.
You'llnotewe'reusing2%fragranceoilsinsteadof1%.Ifyouareusingessential
oils,donotincreaseto2%unlessyoureallyknowwhatyouaredoing!Weusean
increasedamountoffragranceoilasasmallamountofthismixturewillgointoa
largebath,andbubblebathisallaboutthescent.
Andwe'recolouringthismixture.Bubblebathisafeastforyoursenses,anda
colourcangoalongwaytosettingthestageforsuperhappyfunbubbletime.You
canusefancycolouringslikeLabColours(whichIlove!)orbyusingfood
colouring.
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SHAMPOO!
Whenmakingashampoo,considerthehairtypeforwhichyou
areformulating.
Oilyhair:Goal-mildcleansing,degreasing
IusuallychooseBioterge804andLSB(orDLSMild)asgoodcleansersandmilddegreasing.IalwaysaddabitofAmphosolCG
formoremildness.
Dryhair:Goal-mildcleansing,moisturizing
I'dchooseBSBorLSBformildness,andAmphosolCGtoaddeven
moremildness(andit'sahumectant,anddryhaircanalways
benefitfromsomemoisture!)
Normalhair:Goal-mildcleansingHowIenvyyounormalhairedpeople.I'dsuggestAmphosolCGformildness,SLeS
forgentlecleansing,andBSBorLSBformildcleansing.
Weneedsomegoodhairlovingthingsintheretomakeourscalpsandtressesfeel
great!Ialwaysaddthefollowing
Hydrolyzedprotein:Youcanchoosefromanumberofdifferenthydrolyzed
proteins-silk,corn,wheat,soy,oats,andsoon.Formycoarse,oilyhair,Iprefer
Cromoist,hydrolyzedoatprotein.Ihavefoundpeoplewithdryhairlikethesilkproteins.Normalpeoplecanusewhatevertheylike,butPhytokeratinwithsoy,
wheat,andcornproteinsisalovelychoiceforalmostanyone!Useat2%.(Asthis
isanecdotalinformation,tryanyhydrolyzedproteinyoulike!)
Panthenol:IthelpsbuildstronghairandaddsVitaminB5.Sowe'llwantthisat
2%.(Thereissomedebateaboutwhetherornotthisisvaluableinashampooas
itisrinsedoff.Ifigure2%isn'tbreakingthebank,soIincludeit.Feelfreetoleave
itoutifyouwish.)
Glycerin:Itgivesusbubblesandisahumectant,soIliketoaddthisat3to5%.
Conditioningagents:2in1shampooscontaindimethicone,asilicone,asa
conditioner.Thisisagoodchoicefornon-2in1shampoosat2%.Oryoucould
includesomethinglikeCondition-eze7,polyquat7,at2to3%.Thiswillgiveyou
hairaconditionedfeel.(Wecan'tusecationicslikeBTMSorCRwellinashampoo,
that'swhywe'returningtothecationicpolymerslikethepolyquatsorsilicones).
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Extracts:Youcouldincludesomethinglikerosemaryextractinyourhair.It's
supposedtobegoodforbuildingstronghair.
Essentialoils:Iloveusingessentialoilsinshampoo.Formyoilyhair,Iliketo2%
ofanoilyhairblend(equalpartslemon,rosemary,sage,andcedarwood).Fordry
hair,2%equalamountsofgeranium,ylangylang,andlavendercanbeagoodthing.Fordandruff-yhair,youmightconsiderusingpeppermintandteatreeat
1%each(foratotalof2%)inyourmixture.Andnormalhairedpeoplecanchoose
whatevertheywant,includingvariousfragranceoils.
Crothix:Forthickeningandincreasingmildness
Therearemanydifferentwaystomakeashampoo,butIlikea40to50%
surfactantmix.Again,youcangowith30%orless,butIlikemyshampoostobe
concentrated,soIusemoresurfactants.
SHAMPOORECIPE
OILYHAIRBASE
15%Bioterge804
15%DLSMildorLSB
DRYHAIRBASE
30%BSB
NORMALHAIRBASE
15%SLeS
15%BSBorLSB
FORALLHAIRTYPES
46%water
10%AmphosolCG(forallhairtypes)
3%glycerin
2%hydrolyzedoatprotein
2%panthenol2%dimethiconeorcondition-eze7
2%essentialoils
(optional)0.5%extract
upto2%Crothix
0.5%GermallPlusor1.0%GermabenII
Colour,ifdesired
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Mixthesurfactantstogetherandblendwell.Addthewaterandglycerinandmix
well,avoidingbubblesasbestyoucan.Thenaddalltheotheringredients,except
theCrothixandextract.
Ifyouwishtoaddapowderedextract,additabitofhotwaterandstiruntil
dissolved,thenaddtoyourmixture.
AddtheCrothixafterlettingthemixturesettleandcometoroomtemperature.
Startwith1%Crothix,mixwellandseeifyouliketheconsistency.Ifyoudo,letit
sitforanhourorsoatroomtemperaturetoseeifitmaintainsit.Ifyoudon't,then
addupto0.5%more,then0.5%againifyouaren'thappywithit.
Bottle,name,andenjoy!
ANOTEONCLARIFYINGSHAMPOO:Ifyouarelookingforaclarifyingshampoo,makeupthebasicshampoorecipebutleaveoutthedimethiconeorcondition-eze
7asclarifyingshampoosDONOTuseanyconditioningagentsorsilicones.Ilike
tousetheseonceinawhile.Ifyouwantmoreinformationonwhatmakesa
clarifyingshampooclarifying,checkoutthepostonthebeautybrains.com"How
DoClarifyingShampoosWork?"(Ilovethissite!Bookmarkitnow!)
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SOLIDSHAMPOOBARS!
Sowhatexactlyisashampoobar?It'sabarinwhichweputall
thethingswewouldnormallyputintoashampoo-surfactants,
oils,silicones,panthenol,proteins-butweleaveoutthewater.
Thisisyourgeneralbreakdown....
50to65%powderedsurfactants
10to26%liquidsurfactants
2to7%barhardenerlikestearicacid,cetylalcohol,orsodiumlactate(liquid)
1to3%emulsifiers(usuallye-wax,butBTMSwoulddoubledutyhere)
2to7%conditioningagentlikeIncroquatCRorBTMS
2to3%butters-shea,mango,cocoa
1to2%hydrolyzedproteins
1to4%silicones--dimethiconeat1to2%,cyclomethiconeat1to2%.5to2%panthenol
1to2%fragranceoressentialoils
Sohere'swhatIlikeinmyshampoobarforoilyhair.
SHAMPOOBARFOROILYHAIR
30%SCInoodlesorflakes
30%SLSa
15%LSBorDLSmild
10%cocobetaine
3%cetylalcohol
3%emulsifyingwax,Polawax,orIncroquatBTMS
2%orangebutterorotherbutter–coconutoilisnice
2%conditioningagent–IncroquatBTMSorCR
1%hydrolyzedproteins
1%panthenol
1%dimethicone
2%essentialoilblend–equalpartsrosemary,sage,lemon,andcedarwood.
1.WeighyourSCIandliquidsurfactantsintoaheatproofcontainerandaddtoa
doubleboiler.Letmelt,stirringregularlytoensureevenheating.
2.Whenmelted,weighoutandaddeverythingbuttheprotein,panthenol,
dimethicone,andessentialoilblendintothecontainerandcontinuetomelt.Your
mixturewillbethickandgooey!
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3.Whenmelted,removefromthedoubleboilerandaddtherestofthe
ingredients.
4.Getsomekindofmould-Ifindsomethingthatwillgiveyou100gramsorsois
agoodamount-andspoonthemixtureintoit.Freezingitfor30minutesisthe
bestwaytohardenthese.
5.Afteraminimumof30minutes,turnoveryourmouldandletthebarssitfora
whilebeforepackaging.Iliketowaitabout24hourstoletallthewaterevaporate
(youhavesomehumectantsinhere,soyou'llhavesomemoisturedrawntothe
bars!)
SHAMPOOBARFORDRYHAIR
30%SCInoodlesorflakes
30%SLSa
25%BSBorbabyblendconcentrate3%cetylalcohol
3%emulsifyingwax,Polawax,orIncroquatBTMS
2%verymoisturizingbutterorcoconutoil
2%conditioningagent–IncroquatBTMSorCR
1%hydrolyzedproteins–silkisagreatchoicefordryhair!
1%panthenol
1%dimethicone
2%essentialoilblendorfragranceoil
SHAMPOOBARFORNORMALHAIR
30%SCInoodlesorflakes
30%SLSa
15%Babyblendconcentrate,BSBorLSB
10%cocobetaine
3%cetylalcohol
3%emulsifyingwax,Polawax,orIncroquatBTMS
2%coconutoilorothermoisturizingoilorbutter
2%conditioningagent–IncroquatBTMSorCR1%hydrolyzedproteins
1%panthenol
1%dimethicone
2%essentialorfragranceoil
Theinstructionsarethesameforallbars!
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Ihopeyou’veenjoyedthislittletutorialthingieonsurfactants.Feelfreetoshare
theserecipeswithwhomeveryouchoose,butifyouarepostingitonawebsite,
pleasegivecredittoSwiftorSusanBarclay-Nicholsandnotemyblog
(http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com)ore-mailatsjbarclay@telus.net .That
wouldbegreat!
Ifyoureallylikethislittletutorialthingie,pleaseconsiderdonatingafewdollars
totheChilliwackYouthLibraryprogramfund(Ourprogramsarecollectively
calledRatedTforTeen).Ifyouwanttodonate,youcanreachmeat
sjbarclay@telus.net throughhyperwallet(Canada)orthroughPayPal.
WeprovidedifferentprogramstoyouthattheChilliwackandYarrowLibraries
(inChilliwack,B.C.,Canada)andmostofthefundingcomesfromthevolunteers’
pockets.Weoffercraftgroupstoteens,tweens,andpregnantandparenting
teens.Weprovidetwocardandboardgameclubs,twovideogameclubs,anda
Japanesepopcultureprogram,aswell.Wealsoofferparent-childcraftingprograms.Allofourprogramsarefreeofchargeandweprovideallsuppliesfor
allcraftprojectsfreesonooneisleftout.Weaverage15to20youthpergroup
fromeverypartofthecommunity–fosterchildren,pregnantandparentingteens,
studentsinalternateschools,homeschooledyouth,andeveryoneinbetween.We
havehadover7,000youthparticipateinourprogramssince2005,andwewould
lovetobeabletocontinuetheprogramsandexpandtoothercommunities.Ifyou
candonatealittletoourgroups,we’dbeincrediblygrateful!
Okay,themoochingendshere…buttheyareprettyawesomeprograms.We’ve
donesomanybath&bodyprojects-haircareproducts,bodywash,bubblebath,mineralmake-up,andsoon–whichisafantasticopportunitytosharethoughts
anddiscussself-esteem,personalhygiene,applyingmake-up,andsoon.We’ve
madepackagesforwomenintransitionhousesandcollectedforthefoodbank.
Theyreallyareamazingkidsandsoenthusiastic.Iftheideaofayoungwoman
takingchemistrysoshecanlearnmoreaboutbathandbodyproductsmakesyou
smile…iftheideaofyouthenjoyingthelibraryandgettingtheirowncardsmakes
youhappy…orifseeingayoungpersonmakeherownpurseandcrochetscarves
forChristmaspresents,thenpleaseconsiderdonatingalittle.
Okay,themoochingreallyendsnow.Ipromise!
Happyformulating!
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