surfactanttutorialthingie

8/4/2019 surfactanttutorialthingie

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FORMULATINGWITHSURFACTANTSfromhttp://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com 1

Whattheheckisasurfactant?Thewordsurfactantisshortfor"surfaceactive

agent"andhasahydrophilic(water-loving)headandalipophilic(oil-loving)or

hydrophobic(water-hating)tail.Thismeansitcanbringthingstogetherlikeoil

andwater.Soanemulsifier,likeemulsifyingwaxorIncroquatBTMS,isasurfactant.

ButI'mmoreinterestedintalkingaboutsurfactantsasdetergents,thosefoaming,

lathering,bubblyingredientsweusetocreatebubblebaths,bodywashes,

shampoos,andothercleansingitemsfortheshowerortub.

Therearefourmaincategoriesofsurfactantswewouldusewhenmakingbubbly

items....

Anionic:Negativelycharged,thesewouldbethebaseofyoursurfactantmix.

Theyofferalotoflatheranddetergencytothemix,excellentfoamers.Somecan

beirritatingtoskin,soyoucanaddotheringredientsformildness.

Amphoteric:NegativelyorpositivelychargeddependinguponthepHlevel.The

onewe'llbeusingthemostiscocamidopropylbetaine(AmphosolCG).Itadds

mildnessandviscositytomix,butwillofferlessfoamthantheanionic

surfactants,whichiswhywedon'tuseitonitsown.

Non-ionic:Thesearenotgreatfoamers,andareusedprimarilyasemulsifiersin

yourbubblyproducts.Polysorbate20isgreatforaddingsmallamountsof

fragranceoressentialoilstoyourcreations.Polysorbate80isgreatforadding

oilstoshampoos.Bothwillreducethefoamyouseeinyourcreationjustslightly.

Cationic:Thesearepositivelycharged,andaregenerallyfoundinconditioning

ingredients(IncroquatBTMS,IncroquatCR,polyquat7orCondition-eze7,

honeyquat,cetrimoniumchloride).Thesedoreducesomeofthefoamingofyour

bodywash(forinstance),sousingitat1to2%shouldofferyourconditioning

featureswithoutreducingthefoamtoomuch.

SURFACTANTS–BUBBLY,LATHERY,FOAMYFUN!




Therearedozensofsurfactantstochoosefromwhencreating;thelistbeloware

surfactantsIliketouseandonesIcanfindlocally.

Cocamidopropylbetaine(AmphosolCG,foundatVoyageur):Amphoteric.A

humectant.Goodfoamingproperties.Goodflashfoamandfoamstabilization

properties.Addingthisamphoterictoananionicmixwillreducetheharshnessoftheothersurfactantsandchangestheviscosity.Itisagoodanti-staticforhair.

Poortomildcleanser.Goodwheremildnessisvital--babiesorsensitiveskin--

butprimarilyusedasasecondarysurfactant.

Bioterge804(foundatVoyageur):Anionic.Agentlesurfactant.Goodcleansing,

fluffylather.Ifindthisoneisgreatforoilyhairshampoos.

BiotergeAS-40(Sodiumc-14-16olefinsulfonate,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.

Goodcleansing.Excellentflashfoam.

BiotergeAS-90:(sodiumc-14-16olefinsulfonate,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.

PowderformofAS-40.

SLeS(SodiumLaurethSulphate,foundatVoyageurandAquarius):Anionic.A

verymildcleanserwithlowirritationproperties.Richfoam,goodcleansing.I

generallyuseSteolC-230fromVoyageur.

BSB(PEG-80SorbitanLaurate,SodiumTridecethSulfate,Cocamidopropyl

Betaine,DisodiumLauroamphodiacetate,PEG-150Distearate,SodiumLaureth-13Carboxylate,Quaternium-15,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.Verygentlewithmild

cleansing.Verythick,soaddsviscosity.UsetheHerbarie’sBabyBlendinplaceof

BSB.

SCI(sodiumcocoylisethionate,foundatAquariusasJordapronprilled):Anionic.

Noodlesorflakes.Mildcleansing.Offersarichcreamyfoam--hairfeels

conditionedafterwards.Foambooster.Thickensmixtures.

SLSa(sodiumlaurylsulfoacetate,LanthanolatVoyageurorSuds&Scents,SLSaatVoyageur):Anionic.Powderform.Mildandnon-drying(Idisagreethe"non

drying"part.)Highvolumeandlonglastingfoam.ProvidesLOTSofbubbles.

biodegradable.




DecylGlucose(Plantapon2000,foundatVoyageur):Amildsurfactantmade

fromglucoseandcoconutoil.Wouldbegreatformildcleansing.Itdoeshavea

highpH,soifyouhaveapHmeterorpHstrips,usethemwhenformulatingwith

thisproduct!Itisplantderived,soitissuitableforveganproducts,andis100%

biodegradable.(Asanote,I'mnotsurewhyPlantaponisdescribedasveganbecauseit'snotliketheothersurfactantsaremadeofpork!)

LSBSurfactant (SodiumLaurylSulfoacetateandDisodiumLaureth

Sulfosuccinate,foundatVoyageur):Anionic.Verymildandagoodsubstitutionfor

BSB.Asitcontainsasulfosuccinate,itisagreatdegreaserandwouldbe

wonderfulforuseinproductsdesignedforoilyhairandbodyproducts.Wouldbe

niceinafacialcleanser.YoucansubstituteDLSmildforthissurfactantorababy

blendsurfactant.

DLSMild(disodiumlaurethsulfosuccinate):Anionic.Mildcleanser,goodfor

sensitiveskin.Agoodco-surfactantforoilyhair.Skinfeelssoftandconditioned.

SMCTaurate(sodiummethylcocoyltaurate):Anionic.Highfoaming.Mild

cleanser.Primaryorco-surfactant.




FORMULATINGWITHSURFACTANTS!

Ifyouareformulatingfromscratch,askyourselfhowconcentratedyouwantthe

mixtobe.Iusuallyusebetween40to50%surfactants,withtherestbeingwater

andothergoodiessuitabletotheproduct,likeproteinsorhairlovingsilicones!

(Asanote,somesuggestionsaremadeaboutbeing20to40%mixtureofsurfactantstowater,butIlikemyproductstobeveryconcentratedsoIcanuse

less.)

Ifyouarecreatingabubblebath,you'llwanttousesurfactantswithgoodflash

foam(cocobetaineorAS-90),foamstabilization(cocobetaine),foamboosting

(cocobetaineorSCI),longlastingbubbles(SLSa),andhighvolumebubbles

(SLSa).

Ifyouwanttocreateashampooforoilyhair,considersomethinglikeBioterge804(goodcleansing,fluffylather)andDLSMildorLSB(sulfosuccinatesaregreat

atdegreasing)orSCI(richcreamyfoam,conditioning).Fordryhair,youmight

wanttoincludecocobetaineforthehumectant-yqualities.Forababyshampoo,

mildisthekey--BSB,LSB,orDLSMild.

Ifyouwantabodywash,you'llwantmildtogoodcleansingwithfluffylather,so

considercocobetaine(itreducesirritationandthickensthemixture),Bioterge

AS-90(goodflashfoam,goodcleanser)andBSB(thickens,gentlecleanser).

Ifyouwantafacialcleanser,youwillwantmildnesswithouthugebubblesor

lather,andsomethingthatreducesirritationwouldbeagoodthingaswell,soI'd

choosetheBSBorDLSmildforthemildcleansing,orImightusetheAS-40fora

strongercleanser.AlthoughtheSMCtauratelookslikeagoodidea,itisvery

foamy,whichishardtorinseoff!Ialwaysaddadashofcocobetainetomakeit

milder,sothatwouldbeagoodinclusion--it'sahumectant,amildcleanser,and

reducesirritation,butIdon'twantmuchbecauseIdon'twantatonoffoam.

Andifyouwantedasolidsurfactantmixture,likeabubblebarorshampoobar,

you'dwanttousemostlythepowdered,noodled,orflakedsurfactantslikeSCIorSLSa,withasplashofliquidsurfactant(IlikeDLSMild,Bioterge804,orLSBfor

myoilyhair)toenhancethemixture.Obviously,youaren'tgoingtohavethe

50:50mixofsurfactantstowaterhere.You'regoingtousea100%non-water

mixture,withabout60to80%solidsurfactants,therestliquidsurfactantsor

goodiesforyourhair(likeproteins,silicones,andconditioners).




BODYWASH

Youcanleavealotoftheingredientsinthisbodywashout–really,

theonlynecessarythingsarethesurfactants,thewater,theglycerin

(biggerbubbles),andpreservative.Butweaddthecationic

polymerslikeCondition-eze7orhoneyquattomakethismore

moisturizing.Andthepanthenolissogoodforskin!Andthehydrolyzedproteinmakesitfeelmoremoisturizing.Soleaveout

whatyouwant…justrememberweneedthesurfactants!

37.5%water

15%AmphosolCG(cocobetaine)

15%AmphosolAS-90orSLeS

15%BSBorLSB

5%aloevera

3%glycerin3%Condition-eze7

2%cromoistorotherhydrolyzedprotein

2%panthenol

1%fragranceoressentialoil

1%liquidCrothix

0.5%preservative

Colouring,ifwanted

Inacontainer,mixthesurfactantstogetherwell,thenaddthewater.(Youcan

heatthewaterslightlytomakeiteasiertomix).Whenthesurfactantsaremixed

together,addtherestoftheingredients-EXCEPTTHECROTHIX-andblendwell.

Trynottogetatonofbubblesatthetop.Letitrestuntilthemixtureisclearofthe

bubblesandchecktheviscosity.Ifyouarehappywithit,bottleit!Ifyouwantit

thicker,startat0.5%liquidCrothixandstirwell,ensuringyouhaveblendedit

completely.Ifyoustillwantitthicker,addanother0.5%Crothix.Youcangoupto

2%Crothixifyouwish.

Youcanchoosetocolouryourbodywashifyoulike.Iliketo,soIusecoloursI

boughtatthesupplyshopforthispurpose.Don'tusemuch-youjustwantahintofcolour!

Whenfragrancingyourbodywash,you’llnoticesomefragranceoilsmight

thickenit–usuallylavenderbasedonesbutalsocitrusones–andsomemight

thinitout–usuallyvanillabasedones.Keeparecordofwhatdoeswhatsoyou

don’thavetoplaytheCrothixgameeverysingletimeyouwanttomakeabody

wash!




BUBBLEBATH!

Ourmaingoalwhencreatingabubblebathistoformulate

somethingwithbubbles–bubblesshowupwhenwepourit

intothewater,theygrowbigandfoamy,thenstickaroundso

youcanenjoyalovelyscentedsoak.Weobviouslyneedsurfactants,andwe’lladdsomeglycerintokeepthebubbles

coming!Crothixisnecessaryasathickener–wedon’twantto

pouratonintothetubandwasteit!

BUBBLEBATHRECIPE

36.5%water

30%AmphosolCG

22%BiotergeAS-40

6%BSBupto2%Crothix

1%glycerin

0.5%to1%preservative(GermallPlusorGermaben)

2%fragranceoil

Colouring,ifdesired

Mixyoursurfactantstogetheruntilwellblended,thenaddthewaterandblend

well.Addtheglycerin,preservative,fragranceoil,andcolouringandblendwell,

butnottoowellaswedon'twantatonofbubbles.Letitrestforabit-sayan

hourorso-andchecktheviscosity.Ifyouarehappywithit,bottleandlabelit.If

youaren'thappywithit,thenadd1%liquidCrothixandstirwell.Ifyoustill

aren'thappywithit,addanother0.5%Crothix.Youcangoupto2%Crothix,but

ensureyoustirverywellinbetweenadditions.

You'llnotewe'reusing2%fragranceoilsinsteadof1%.Ifyouareusingessential

oils,donotincreaseto2%unlessyoureallyknowwhatyouaredoing!Weusean

increasedamountoffragranceoilasasmallamountofthismixturewillgointoa

largebath,andbubblebathisallaboutthescent.

Andwe'recolouringthismixture.Bubblebathisafeastforyoursenses,anda

colourcangoalongwaytosettingthestageforsuperhappyfunbubbletime.You

canusefancycolouringslikeLabColours(whichIlove!)orbyusingfood

colouring.




SHAMPOO!

Whenmakingashampoo,considerthehairtypeforwhichyou

areformulating.

Oilyhair:Goal-mildcleansing,degreasing

IusuallychooseBioterge804andLSB(orDLSMild)asgoodcleansersandmilddegreasing.IalwaysaddabitofAmphosolCG

formoremildness.

Dryhair:Goal-mildcleansing,moisturizing

I'dchooseBSBorLSBformildness,andAmphosolCGtoaddeven

moremildness(andit'sahumectant,anddryhaircanalways

benefitfromsomemoisture!)

Normalhair:Goal-mildcleansingHowIenvyyounormalhairedpeople.I'dsuggestAmphosolCGformildness,SLeS

forgentlecleansing,andBSBorLSBformildcleansing.

Weneedsomegoodhairlovingthingsintheretomakeourscalpsandtressesfeel

great!Ialwaysaddthefollowing

Hydrolyzedprotein:Youcanchoosefromanumberofdifferenthydrolyzed

proteins-silk,corn,wheat,soy,oats,andsoon.Formycoarse,oilyhair,Iprefer

Cromoist,hydrolyzedoatprotein.Ihavefoundpeoplewithdryhairlikethesilkproteins.Normalpeoplecanusewhatevertheylike,butPhytokeratinwithsoy,

wheat,andcornproteinsisalovelychoiceforalmostanyone!Useat2%.(Asthis

isanecdotalinformation,tryanyhydrolyzedproteinyoulike!)

Panthenol:IthelpsbuildstronghairandaddsVitaminB5.Sowe'llwantthisat

2%.(Thereissomedebateaboutwhetherornotthisisvaluableinashampooas

itisrinsedoff.Ifigure2%isn'tbreakingthebank,soIincludeit.Feelfreetoleave

itoutifyouwish.)

Glycerin:Itgivesusbubblesandisahumectant,soIliketoaddthisat3to5%.

Conditioningagents:2in1shampooscontaindimethicone,asilicone,asa

conditioner.Thisisagoodchoicefornon-2in1shampoosat2%.Oryoucould

includesomethinglikeCondition-eze7,polyquat7,at2to3%.Thiswillgiveyou

hairaconditionedfeel.(Wecan'tusecationicslikeBTMSorCRwellinashampoo,

that'swhywe'returningtothecationicpolymerslikethepolyquatsorsilicones).




Extracts:Youcouldincludesomethinglikerosemaryextractinyourhair.It's

supposedtobegoodforbuildingstronghair.

Essentialoils:Iloveusingessentialoilsinshampoo.Formyoilyhair,Iliketo2%

ofanoilyhairblend(equalpartslemon,rosemary,sage,andcedarwood).Fordry

hair,2%equalamountsofgeranium,ylangylang,andlavendercanbeagoodthing.Fordandruff-yhair,youmightconsiderusingpeppermintandteatreeat

1%each(foratotalof2%)inyourmixture.Andnormalhairedpeoplecanchoose

whatevertheywant,includingvariousfragranceoils.

Crothix:Forthickeningandincreasingmildness

Therearemanydifferentwaystomakeashampoo,butIlikea40to50%

surfactantmix.Again,youcangowith30%orless,butIlikemyshampoostobe

concentrated,soIusemoresurfactants.

SHAMPOORECIPE

OILYHAIRBASE

15%Bioterge804

15%DLSMildorLSB

DRYHAIRBASE

30%BSB

NORMALHAIRBASE

15%SLeS

15%BSBorLSB

FORALLHAIRTYPES

46%water

10%AmphosolCG(forallhairtypes)

3%glycerin

2%hydrolyzedoatprotein

2%panthenol2%dimethiconeorcondition-eze7

2%essentialoils

(optional)0.5%extract

upto2%Crothix

0.5%GermallPlusor1.0%GermabenII

Colour,ifdesired




Mixthesurfactantstogetherandblendwell.Addthewaterandglycerinandmix

well,avoidingbubblesasbestyoucan.Thenaddalltheotheringredients,except

theCrothixandextract.

Ifyouwishtoaddapowderedextract,additabitofhotwaterandstiruntil

dissolved,thenaddtoyourmixture.

AddtheCrothixafterlettingthemixturesettleandcometoroomtemperature.

Startwith1%Crothix,mixwellandseeifyouliketheconsistency.Ifyoudo,letit

sitforanhourorsoatroomtemperaturetoseeifitmaintainsit.Ifyoudon't,then

addupto0.5%more,then0.5%againifyouaren'thappywithit.

Bottle,name,andenjoy!

ANOTEONCLARIFYINGSHAMPOO:Ifyouarelookingforaclarifyingshampoo,makeupthebasicshampoorecipebutleaveoutthedimethiconeorcondition-eze

7asclarifyingshampoosDONOTuseanyconditioningagentsorsilicones.Ilike

tousetheseonceinawhile.Ifyouwantmoreinformationonwhatmakesa

clarifyingshampooclarifying,checkoutthepostonthebeautybrains.com"How

DoClarifyingShampoosWork?"(Ilovethissite!Bookmarkitnow!)




SOLIDSHAMPOOBARS!

Sowhatexactlyisashampoobar?It'sabarinwhichweputall

thethingswewouldnormallyputintoashampoo-surfactants,

oils,silicones,panthenol,proteins-butweleaveoutthewater.

Thisisyourgeneralbreakdown....

50to65%powderedsurfactants

10to26%liquidsurfactants

2to7%barhardenerlikestearicacid,cetylalcohol,orsodiumlactate(liquid)

1to3%emulsifiers(usuallye-wax,butBTMSwoulddoubledutyhere)

2to7%conditioningagentlikeIncroquatCRorBTMS

2to3%butters-shea,mango,cocoa

1to2%hydrolyzedproteins

1to4%silicones--dimethiconeat1to2%,cyclomethiconeat1to2%.5to2%panthenol

1to2%fragranceoressentialoils

Sohere'swhatIlikeinmyshampoobarforoilyhair.

SHAMPOOBARFOROILYHAIR

30%SCInoodlesorflakes

30%SLSa

15%LSBorDLSmild

10%cocobetaine

3%cetylalcohol

3%emulsifyingwax,Polawax,orIncroquatBTMS

2%orangebutterorotherbutter–coconutoilisnice

2%conditioningagent–IncroquatBTMSorCR

1%hydrolyzedproteins

1%panthenol

1%dimethicone

2%essentialoilblend–equalpartsrosemary,sage,lemon,andcedarwood.

1.WeighyourSCIandliquidsurfactantsintoaheatproofcontainerandaddtoa

doubleboiler.Letmelt,stirringregularlytoensureevenheating.

2.Whenmelted,weighoutandaddeverythingbuttheprotein,panthenol,

dimethicone,andessentialoilblendintothecontainerandcontinuetomelt.Your

mixturewillbethickandgooey!




3.Whenmelted,removefromthedoubleboilerandaddtherestofthe

ingredients.

4.Getsomekindofmould-Ifindsomethingthatwillgiveyou100gramsorsois

agoodamount-andspoonthemixtureintoit.Freezingitfor30minutesisthe

bestwaytohardenthese.

5.Afteraminimumof30minutes,turnoveryourmouldandletthebarssitfora

whilebeforepackaging.Iliketowaitabout24hourstoletallthewaterevaporate

(youhavesomehumectantsinhere,soyou'llhavesomemoisturedrawntothe

bars!)

SHAMPOOBARFORDRYHAIR


30%SLSa

25%BSBorbabyblendconcentrate3%cetylalcohol


2%verymoisturizingbutterorcoconutoil

2%conditioningagent–IncroquatBTMSorCR

1%hydrolyzedproteins–silkisagreatchoicefordryhair!

1%panthenol

1%dimethicone

2%essentialoilblendorfragranceoil

SHAMPOOBARFORNORMALHAIR


30%SLSa

15%Babyblendconcentrate,BSBorLSB

10%cocobetaine

3%cetylalcohol


2%coconutoilorothermoisturizingoilorbutter

2%conditioningagent–IncroquatBTMSorCR1%hydrolyzedproteins

1%panthenol

1%dimethicone

2%essentialorfragranceoil

Theinstructionsarethesameforallbars!




Ihopeyou’veenjoyedthislittletutorialthingieonsurfactants.Feelfreetoshare

theserecipeswithwhomeveryouchoose,butifyouarepostingitonawebsite,

pleasegivecredittoSwiftorSusanBarclay-Nicholsandnotemyblog

(http://swiftcraftymonkey.blogspot.com)[email protected] .That

wouldbegreat!

Ifyoureallylikethislittletutorialthingie,pleaseconsiderdonatingafewdollars

totheChilliwackYouthLibraryprogramfund(Ourprogramsarecollectively

calledRatedTforTeen).Ifyouwanttodonate,youcanreachmeat

[email protected] throughhyperwallet(Canada)orthroughPayPal.

WeprovidedifferentprogramstoyouthattheChilliwackandYarrowLibraries

(inChilliwack,B.C.,Canada)andmostofthefundingcomesfromthevolunteers’

pockets.Weoffercraftgroupstoteens,tweens,andpregnantandparenting

teens.Weprovidetwocardandboardgameclubs,twovideogameclubs,anda

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lovetobeabletocontinuetheprogramsandexpandtoothercommunities.Ifyou

candonatealittletoourgroups,we’dbeincrediblygrateful!

Okay,themoochingendshere…buttheyareprettyawesomeprograms.We’ve

donesomanybath&bodyprojects-haircareproducts,bodywash,bubblebath,mineralmake-up,andsoon–whichisafantasticopportunitytosharethoughts

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Theyreallyareamazingkidsandsoenthusiastic.Iftheideaofayoungwoman

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Okay,themoochingreallyendsnow.Ipromise!

Happyformulating!

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