Role of a Merchandiser in a Sewing Room

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• Tommy Hilfiger• WAL-MART• Marks and Spencer• Zara• Esprit• Ann Taylor• Gap• Nautica• Mango• Nine West• Liz Claiborne

How many of you have heard the names of these international retailers?

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  Some Facts

• Did you know almost all these retailers and brands get there apparel manufactured in India, exported to their stores in the US and Europe?

• Export houses in India manufacture in mass for them• With retailers placing close to 20 – 30 styles on order each

season• Order sizes range from 2,000 – 2,00,000 pieces per style for

each buyer

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Some Facts

• This means on an average an exporter can manufacture anywhere between 40,000 units to 20,00,000 units for each buyer

• So who is the person who co-ordinates between buyers in USA/Europe/Australia and the manufacturers in India?

• That person is a ‘Merchandiser’

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What is Garment Merchandising

• The word “MERCHANDISING” evolves from Merchandise

• Merchandise is the commodities and goods that are bought and sold in business

• Hence, merchandising is a function resulting in sale and purchase of goods at the agreed price, at the agreed date and of the agreed quality.

• Merchandising function involves all activities directly or indirectly linked with procuring and selling of goods, planning and monitoring.

MerchandisingDefinition Merchandising is the business art of matching

goods to the needs and preferences of customers to ensure shelf off take". In other word merchandising is the marketing activity responsible for ensuring a product’s desirability, both in qualitative and quantitative.

Merchandising• Merchandising’ word is originated from Merchant

or Shopkeeper. The duty of the shopkeeper is to arrange right products with right price before a consumer decides to buy or knows about the product from promotion or media. If a merchant fails to supply goods on time or fails to supply the right packaging, customer will go to other shops and buy the products from competitors, who keep the desired product in stock.

Merchandiser

A person who ensures that the right product reaches at the right price in right quantity and at the right time to the final destination.

Merchandising…as the eyes may behold

The marketing methods and techniques of presenting products for sale.

(Branson) Any activity to stimulate trade interest in moving

the product to the prospect. (Wright)

The planning involved in marketing the right merchandise at the right place, at the Right time, in the right quantities, and at the

right price.(American Marketing Assoc.)

In Eastern Europe, particularly in Russia, the term “merchandising” is commonly used

within the trading industry and denotes all marketing and sales stimulation activities

around PoS (point of sale): design, creation, promotion, care and training of the sales staff.

as commonly used in marketing, means maximizing merchandise sales using product selection, product design, product packaging, product pricing, and product display that stimulates consumers to spend more.

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MerchandisingDefinition• Planning to have the right

merchandise at the right time, in the right quantity & at the right price.

• It is the integral part of the management policies.

• Ultimate success lies in having on time deliveries.

• It is a continuous process and involves a strong element and understanding of detailing.

DEFINITION: MERCHANDISE /MERCHANDISING / MERCHANDISER

• MERCHANDISE: Products that the entrepreneur deals on a

commercially viable scale.• MERCHANDISING: Merchandising is basically planning, buying and

selling the merchandise for a profit.• MERCHANDISER: Driver who have logical and analytical thinking with

intuitive and expressive capability to transform the entire range into 3D MERCHANDISE.

Marketing and Merchandising

Point 1• Marketing works with the brand on a community/advertising level. • • Merchandising works with the product on a retail level.

Point 2• Marketing is how a company advertises itself, and how it raises awareness of it’s public image.

• Merchandising is how a product is

displayed in a retail market, including signage, shelf space and placement, end caps, displays, planned promotions, etc.

Point 3• Marketing is creating a feeling around a company and a brand that makes a consumer want to buy

company products. • Merchandising is creating promotions, displays, and maximizing revenue per square foot of floor

space.

Point 4• Marketing is the management process through which goods and services move

from concept to the customer. As a practice, it consists in coordination of four elements called 4P's: (1) identification, selection, and development of a product, (2) determination of its price, (3) selection of a distribution channel to reach the customer's place, and (4) development and implementation of a promotional strategy.

• Merchandising is the activity of promoting the sale of goods at retail markets. Merchandising activities may include display techniques, free samples, on-the-spot demonstration, pricing, shelf talkers, special offers, and other point-of-sale methods. According to American Marketing Association, merchandising encompasses "planning involved in marketing the right merchandise or service at the right place, at the right time, in the right quantities, and at the right price”

Washing/no washing

Fabric sourcing

Segregation on thebasis of shade and

shrinkageShrinkage testing

Fabric store Segregationacc. to shade, lot

etc

Shade approval by local buyer

Checking for lay widthand no of panels

Numbering

Cutting

Bundling Checking inCutting section Sewing section

Inline andEndline checkers With roaming

QCsTrimming Section

Presentationchecking

Finishingand pressingRough Checking

Final checking Measurement checkingWarehouse

Buttoning

Garment factory Department

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Soul of Merchandising – co ordination with other department

Merchandiser

SamplingFabric

ProductionProductionQualityQualityControlControl

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Merchandising is a• Central body which coordinates

between various department.• Is the main link of correspondence

between different levels.• Is responsible for smooth flow of

inventory for timely delivery.• Follow up with each & every aspect

involved in the shipment of final merchandise.

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How an order flows..

Lead time from order enquiry to dispatch 3-4 months

Order

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT,

Costing & ORDER CONFIRMATION

FABRIC/ TRIMS ORDERING &

APPROVALS

PRODUCTION PLANNING &

MANUFACTURING

INSPECTION AND SHIPPING

Apparel Merchandising Activity Cycle

Merchandising and interdepartmental relations:

Supply ChainDesign Conceptualization Planning

Sourcing

Planning

Cost Negotiation

Order Placement

Fabric & Sourcing

Pattern & Samples

Fitting

Testing

Promotion

ProductionFinishing

Inspection

Packing

Shopping

Distribution

Store Allocation

Store Setup

Visual Merchandising

Sales

Replenishment

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Function of Merchandising• Function of a Merchandiser

garment firm include: Coordination with other departments. Generation, execution and management

of business. Understanding the importance of

working in a team. Helping organizations in achieving their

targets. Helping in meeting the expectations of

the buyers. Representing buyers and conveying

message to & fro.

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Duties and responsibilities of a Merchandiser.

• Plans purchasing – fabric & trims.• Sourcing – right kind of

merchandise to satisfy buyers expectations.

• Schedules Production.• Follow up on sent shipments –

Handling customers complaints if any.

• Works on costing of garments.• Works on deadlines of various

stages of the order – sampling, production, finishing and shipment.

Types of merchandisers• Design- Merchandiser interface:

(mainly in import sourcing or buying agent or liaison offices)

• Manufacture merchandiser (mainly in export organs)

• Retail merchandiser (in centralized or localized retail buying operations)

TYPES OF MERCHANDISING

1.EXPORT MERCHANDISING: a) In an Export Production House b) In Buying House

2.RETAIL MERCHANDISING: a) For domestic Market

MERCHANDISING ROLE- EXPORT HOUSEMERCHANDISING DEVELOPMENT BASED ON BUYER’S OBJECTIVE

PO – FROM BUYERPROTO SAMPLE WITH COSTING (As per details provided)

DEVELOPMENT OF LAB-DIP / DESKLOOMSORDER FOR RAW MATERIAL (AFTER LB-DIPS / DESKLOOMS APPROAL)

PROCUREMENT OF TRIMS SAMPLE YARDAGE RECEIVED

SALESMAN SAMPLES BULK FABRIC / ACCESSORIES – INHOUSEPILOT RUN/ PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES

INCEPTION OF BULK PRODUCTION ONLINE AND MIDDLE INSPECTION

PACKINGFINAL INSPECTION

SHIPMENT

ROLE OF MERCHANDISER: A Merchandiser must be a multi faceted individual who is involved in all functions that result in the creation , development, execution and delivery of the product

MERCHANDISER

MARKET KNOWLEDGE

MATERIAL MANAGEMENT

PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT

INTERFACE WITH MANUFACTURING INTERFACE WITH SALES

SOURCING

PRODUCTION AUTHORIZATION

PLANNING & CONTROLING

A merchandiser is involved in every stage of the process from design to sales……… they• advise the designer on market trends,

• collect specifications from the buyers,

• get the samples approved

• and also negotiate the price.

• even responsible for ensuring that consignments are delivered to the customers in time.

The Life of a Merchandiser

• Most work in fashion merchandising involves juggling the past, present, and future.

• Merchandisers spend a great deal evaluating sales from previous time periods in order to plan and make decisions for future sales.

• This requires an ability to forecast trends & then translate them into a profitable business plan for the company.

Functions of the buyer

• Planning

• Inventory replenishment

• Buying (procurement)

• Vendor management

• Selling

Role of a Merchandiser• Merchandisers need to have updated information

on colors, fabrics, and styling for the forthcoming season

• Based on this information, sourcing merchandisers should work with mills, fabric sources and export houses for new developments.

• Understand the buyer’s requirements after receiving specification in sample order

• To get updated on the current status of the order• Receiving of PO from buyer. • Development of Proto sample with costing.

Role of a Merchandiser• Coordinating with factories for submits such as

yarns/ lab dips, desk loom, bulk fabrics, fit samples, pre-production samples, etc.

• Ordering of Bulk fabrics and accessories or manufactured in-house.

• Carrying out pilot run• Cross check samples at the pilot run, inline and

midline and keep a track of day-to-day production output based on the status given by the factory as well as the stationed QCs.

• To communicate with the buyers regarding the order

• Merchandisers should perform the role of a product technologist.

Role of a Merchandiser-As a Production Technologist• Buyer contact and communication• Product development• Costing and Pricing of merchandise• Selling and booking of orders• Production follow up• Quality Control• The knowledge of IT applications and

training thereof• Basic economics and world trade

knowledge

Role of a Merchandiser –for Production Plan• Planned date to start knitting to make the

required fabrics.• Planned date to start dyeing to color the

fabrics.• Planned date to start cutting fabrics.• Planned date to start sewing the required

garments.• Planned date to start packing the required

garments.• Planned date to hand over finished goods

to buyer nominated sea or air forwarder.

Role of a Merchandiser-In Quality Control• Provide correct and clear information on time

to relevant departments• Ensure fabric quality• Ensure production friendly samples• On time sealer sample availability• Make sure to get the sources of accessories

and fabrics at as early as sampling stage of the style

• Ensure timely trims arrival• Ensure right first time submissions to buyer to

save time, money and reputation

Role of a Merchandiser-In Quality Control• Ensure timely approvals from buyers• Identify possible problems in the style and the

ways to avoid them• Discuss the style, its target and its T&Awith

production team• Timely handing over production file with all the

required contents• Timely preparation of budget for fabric and trims• Conduct/be present for in-line inspection to

anticipate defects and avoidance of the same in the future.

• Merchant should regularly visit production floor in order to locate if any defect is left unnoticed

Challenge• Rapid Response is the buzz word

• Decision Support Systems• Real Time Merchandising• Responsive Manufacturing• Functional Integration• Time Compression• Partnership Relationship

Efficiency Vs Effectiveness

Efficiency : Doing the job right

Effectiveness : Doing the right job

 Its fundamental prerequisite is that person has a complete understanding of his job and what he is expected to contribute in an organization

Inculcate Effectiveness

We are what we repeatedly do. Excellence, then is not an act but a habit

A habit is an intersection of knowledge, skill & desire.

Knowledge - What and Why to do? Desire - Want to do? Skill - How to do?

Habit

Roles and Responsibilities Product Development & Sampling Fabric & Trim Sourcing Costing & Negotiation Fits & Pre-Production Approvals Maintaining Records Plan Factory Capacity & Allocations Fabric Booking Trim Confirmations Color / Fabric approval Fit approval Testing Product Safety Production & Line Planning Production Follow up Quality Audits & Shipment Status Quota / Embargo Movements Vessel / Flight Planning Documentation

Skills• Time Management• Planning and Organizing• Communication• Negotiation• Teamwork

Time Management“If you can not manage yourself, you can not manage anyone else”A disorganized person does not know where the problem lies. You miss deadlines,

however fast you work, you seem to be running behind your schedule.

Time is MoneySpend time in important goals & tasks.

Plan your results

Stay in control

Utilize your available time effectively.

Clear, specific goals

Well-defined priorities

Key area is a main area on which to concentrate your time and effort in order to achieve the overall purpose.

Tasks should form the basis of your action of what to do, when to do and how to do.

Proactive-nessBe Proactive

Proactive tasks – Active positive tasks you must do to achieve the objective. It is taking initiative by not being pushy, obnoxious or aggressive but by being affirmative and assertive.

Reactive tasks – Day to day tasks that land on your desk everyday and has to dealt with to keep things running

Proactive personManages current tasks well.

Allocates time for the projects.

Completes small part of huge goals everyday.

Is guided by the goal set for future.

Translates desires into results.

 Reactive PersonGets bogged down by the external environment – emails, phone

Uses time to get by.

Has no time for development projects.

Works to find a short term solution.

Importance vs. UrgencyThese are not the same things. Something urgent is not necessarily important. Urgent tasks should be dealt with straight way taking out the minimum time. Positive tasks are always the important ones and reactive tasks are rarely important.

The objective here is to :

Maximize return of time.

Maximum fulfillment.Reduces stress.

Planning and Organizing skills

Allows us to effectively utilize resources.

Allows us to anticipate problems.

Enables us to communicate our intentions to others.

Assists us to evaluate how realistic the objectives are. Assists us to evaluate alternative means of achieving objectives.

Assists us to establish priorities.

Helps reduce firefighting.

Planning tools

Helps us track our priorities.

Helps communicate and track programs and results.

Increases productivity.

Manifests and induces capacity.

Organizes tasks.

Saves time and increases productivity

Daily tool

" If you are not in control of your day, you are not in control at all. "

Most important self organizing tool ( if used) is a diary.

Maintain a diary.

Allocate time meeting with yourself.

Fill gaps by doing routine work.

Allow time to meet unexpected tasks, unmet deadlines.

Weekly toolLinks to long term planning of a month with details of a daily planner , reminds you not to lose track formats/time and action calendar/reports etc can be classified in this category

Likewise are monthly and annual tools.

Analyze crisis by using the following checklist :

How did this happen.

Why am i doing it now.

When did i know about it.

Has it occurred before.

Is there a system we can set up today to avoid this in future.

Overcome obstacles by organizing yourselfOrganize your desk

Carefully arranged workplace enables you to work efficiently, feel good and save time.

" Messy desks reflect messy brain "

Desk filingDo now Do it today

Do soon Within a week

Read magazines/journals etc.

pass on pass/delegate.

file info that needs to be preserved.

misc. vouchers/invoices etc.

Throw away InterruptionsNecessary foreseeableNecessary unforeseeableWelcome socialUnwelcome, that disrupt and frustrate you.

If there are too many interruptions, something is drastically wrong.Why do they happen ?Poor communicationLack of informationUnclear communicationCrisis managementCommitments not metSocial interruptions.

Being aware of the problem is more than 90% of the solution.

Manage Meetings Have clear objective and an agenda.

Have correct choice of participants.

Prepare well.

Have clear idea.

Need sound leadership.

Avoid unnecessary interruptions.

Proper Filing & Record Maintenance What to file?

The material that has value and relevance and that needs to be preserved.

Proper Classification

Have proper classification correspondence in separate folders/style files.

Special files poplin qualities/ trim file

Should be easily accessible to everybody.

Effective Communication & Negotiation Skills"Seek first to understand, then to be understood "Communication It is the process by which a person, a group or an organization (sender) transmits some information ( message ) to another person/group or and organization (receiver)

Channels of communicationWritten

Telephonic

Face – to-Face

Need to choose an appropriate channel for maximum effectiveness. It is a very important tool which is very critical for your success as an individual as well as a company.

Proper & Effective Communication

You should have proper background.

Current knowledge of the subject.

Right perspective & attitude

It should be precise, clear and to the point.

Good Listening skills.

Better relationships.

Access to relevant info.

Should be open minded

Not judgmental

Build RapportReduce differences.

Build common ground and similarities at an unconscious level.

Develop respect and trust through authority, credibility and sincerity.

With PeersShow respect, kindness and friendliness.

Talk willingly and openly.

Help others achieve goals and develop capacity.

Give constructive feedback.

With SubordinatesLearn what they expect from you.

Communicate expectations unambiguously.

Be fair, don't play favorite.

Be honest and ethical.

Show concern.

With SuperiorsKnow what is expected of you.

Know what info serves his needs.

Give well considered ideas.

Share important suggestions and grievances.

Role of a Merchandiser in a Buying Office• Communicating with buyers by mail

(mostly) for new queries as well as updates• Meeting with vendors and explaining new

development requirement to vendor team • Planning for new season sampling and

production orders • Collecting of garment samples, trims and

different types of swatches from the vendors 

• Submission of samples to buyer through courier 

• Follow up with vendors for samples • Follow up with buyers for approvals and

feedback • Giving approval on samples where buyer

intervention is not required • Updating latest comments on particular

styles or order to vendor representative • Update the buyers with the order status at

all stages •

• Execution of running orders (production) • Visit to vendor site • Sourcing of materials for new

development • Preparation of material requirement • Selection and finalizing of vendors for the

upcoming orders based on vendor’s experience of making similar products 

• Preparing Purchase order 

• Costing and negotiation with trim & accessory suppliers 

• Handle quality issues for sampling as well as production 

• Preparing inspection schedule for shipment and notifying to quality department in the buying house or third party QA. 

• Maintaining files and Accounts • Updating Time and Action calendar