KNITTING TECHNOLOGY

Needles

• Needles are considered as the heart of the knitting machine.

• Types– Spring beard needle– Latch needle– Compound needle

Spring beard needle Latch needle Compound needle

LAtch

Weft Knit

Course

Wales

• Course: horizontal row of successive loops.

• Wale: Vertical row of loops produced by the individual needle

• Gauge: it expresses the no of needles / inch)

• Stitch length: Length of yarn required to form a single loop.

Knitting terminologies

Weft knitting

• Types– Single Jersey– Rib – Interlock

Single Jersey:

• This structure is produced by using one set of needles placed in the needle bed.

• It is done by drawing all the loops towards the technical face side

Single jersey

Face side

Back side single jersey

Single Jersey: properties

• Simplest form of knitted structure

• V shaped loop on face side –Semi circular loops at backside

• Widthwise extensibility

• Non reversible

• If the single loop gets breaks, they tend to run or ladder

Rib

• This structure is produced by using Two set of needles ( arrangement of needles side by side). – Cylinder needle– Dial needle

• It is done by drawing the loops towards the technical face side and backside alternatively

1x1 Rib

2x1 Rib

2x2 Rib

Rib knits-Properties

• Face & back side having the same appearance (reversible)

• Used for collar, cuff and neck line

• More elastic than the single jersey

• Looks alternate vertical cords and thin ridges ( 1x1 Rib,2x2 Rib)

Interlock

• This structure is produced by using Two set of needles placed opposite to each other. – Cylinder needle– Dial needle

• It is done by drawing the loops towards the technical face side at front and backside

RIB Interlock

Interlock -properties

• It looks with the V shaped structure at both front and back

• It is called double jersey

• Thicker fabric

• Having less elongation than single jersey than & Rib

Purl knit structure

• The appearance of the Purl knit fabric ( both technical face & technical back) resemble the backside of the single jersey ( semi circular effect).

• Because of heavy structure, the edges will not curl. It improves the sew ability.

• Expensive than other structure.

Purl structure

Float or miss stitch

If the needle is not raised by the clearing cam, the needle does not receive the new yarn and the goes back side of the needle forms miss stitch

Tuck stitch

Here, the needle is raised partially by the clearing cam, so the old loop is not cleared by the latch and also the feeder feeds the new yarn in to the hook. In this condition the loop consists of two yarn.

End