Colorado Snow Climbsand Lessons from the

Backcountry

High Altitude Mountaineering School (HAMS)

Seminar Series

Purpose

- Encourage you to enjoy superb snow climbs that abound in our backyard playground.

- Practice, improve, and learn new alpine skills.- Target more challenging routes in preparation for

climbing big mountains.- Share lessons learned from my own climbs- Discuss risk management in Colorado’s

backcountry

HAMS skills practiced in CO backcountryapply to high peaks:

- Trip planning- Route-finding- Winter camping- Crampon technique- Ice axe technique- Self arrest- Roped travel, running belays- Clothing management and testing- Nutrition, hydration and systems- Technical gear

Finding Colorado snow climbs

- Online resources, e.g. summitpost.com trip reports, 14ers.com, Mountain Project

- CMC.org trip schedule- Books, e.g. Cooper’s Colorado Snow Climbs- Friends, etc.

Maroon Bells, Bellcord Couloir

Mt. Meeker,Dreamweaver Couloir

- Mixed climbing

Lessons learned

- Training for Mt.

Rainier

- June 26th, 2010

- South aspect- Late start

Flattop Mtn,Dragon’s Tail Couloir

- Carefully assess snow conditions and avalanche risk

- Beware summit fever

- Establish your personal risk threshold

- Take WFA- Be conservative if

potential C-spine injury

Lessons learned

- April 7th, 2012

- Training for Denali

Flattop Mtn,Dragon’s Tail Couloir

- Thank BMS for requiring alpine starts

Arapahoe Peak, Skywalker Couloir

Lessons learned

Ascending St. Mary’s Glacier

James Peak , Superstar Couloir

Superstar Couloiron James Peak

- Carefully and continuously assess snow conditions and avalanche risk

Lessons learned

- Retreat when necessary!

Lessons learned

Superstar Couloiron James Peak

“Plan B” Couloirnear James Peak

- Live and climb another day --

maybe even today!

Lessons learned

Lessons learned- Climbing is only

half the fun!

James Peak,Superstar Couloir (two weeks later)

- Slope angle difficult to judge head-on

- You can do it! (maybe) You won’t know until you try it.

- Work your way up (so to speak).

- Assess risk and protect as needed.

- Bring a compass or GPS!

Lessons learned

Lessons learned- Training- Explore!

Pacific Peak, North CouloirPacific Peak, North Couloir

Lessons learned- Practice

mountaineering skills

- White helmets, scruffy beards, and black Julbo Explorer glacier glasses are hot!

Lessons learned

- Topping out 100’ shy of 14k’ is a beautiful thing!

Lessons learned

Thatchtop Mtn NW Gully

- Dealing with cold

Lessons learned

- Don’t try this at home!

- Learn from an experienced leader

Lessons learned

Thatchtop – Powell Icefield

Thatchotop – Powell Icefield

- Snow / ice climbing is not just a Spring sport!

Lessons learned

- Meet fellow climbers in HAMS!

- Get out and climb!- Have fun!

The Citadel, Snoopy Couloir

Lessons learned

The Possibilities are Endless!

- Angel of Shavano- Lost Rat Couloir on Grays Pk- Notchtop Couloir on Notchtop Mtn- Dead Dog Couloir on Torreys Pk- Cristo Couloir, North Couloir on Quandary Pk- Emperor Couloir on Torreys Pk- Cross Couloir on Mt of the Holy Cross- Flying Dutchman on Mt Meeker- Martha’s Couloir on Mt Lady Washington- Y Couloir on Ypsilon Mtn

Upper Crater Lake, IPW June 2013

- Leader must consider varying levels of experience

- Be cognizant of changing snow conditions

- Be wary of large cornices at the top of your climb

Lessons learned

Mt. Evans, Crystal Couloir June 2013

- Acclimatization matters!

Lessons learned

Flattop Mtn, Ptarmigan Finger Couloir June 2013

Flattop Mtn Apr 2007

Mt. of the Holy CrossJune 2013

- Practice helps stretchyour comfort zone.

- High camps are great for gettingaway from people and mosquitos!

Lessons learned

Long’s Peak, Notch CouloirJune 2013

- Use a gear checklist!- Weather risk in remote

high, alpine environment

Lessons learned

Get out and climb!- Deal with adverse and changing weather- Identify safe routes- Practice self arrest- Dig snow pits- Practice running belays, setting pro- Learn your nutrition, hydration, electrolyte,

and recovery needs- Acclimatize (to cold, as well as elevation)- Get fit

- Have FUN!

- Push your limits carefully.- Gain experience managing

risk.- Build your confidence to climb

more challenging routes.- Have fun!

Lessons learned in the Colorado Backcountry