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MODELLING WAVE-COASTAL STRUCTURE ......-0.005 0 0.005 0.01 0.015 0.02 0.025 0.03 η (m) 0.4s 0.8s 1.28s 1.12s 1.6s 2.0s 1.44s 1.36s Figure 5. Spatial profiles of free surface along
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