Scrunch time - Chris Dyson · Mind-bending metal works ‘trappeD’ Mirror€90by osepilaap DeVila...

writer: laura hawkins

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Customisation is key this season, and

issey Miyake has put a unique twist on

the trend with a womenswear collection,

the shape of which can be moulded at

will. the collection, which includes

undulating dresses and sculptural sun

hats, is formed from ‘Dough Dough’

fabric, conceived by creative director

Yoshiyuki Miyamae, who was inspired by

the process of kneading bread. we’ll be

getting into shape this spring, twisting

and crumpling these pieces into a range

of new silhouettes. isseymiyake.com

Scrunch timesculptable fabric adds spring to our wardrobe

PhotograPhY: oskar ProCtor

fashion: lune kuiPers

Dress, £2,130, BY isseY MiYake

PhotograPheD at

Chris DYson arChiteCts’

alBion works in haCkneY,

lonDon, see Page 073

for stoCkists throughout,

see Page 216

∑ 069

The sharpest trends, trailblazers and sartorial triumphs

93WPR19MAR107.pgs 22.01.2019 16:53 BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN

writer: rosa bertoli

Folded metal is having its moment in the sun.

Designers Kim Colin and sam Hecht, founders of

industrial Facility, have collaborated with new brand

Fucina on a furniture collection featuring thin, flat

panels arranged in graphic compositions. applying the

technique to smaller objects, swiss designer laetitia

de allegri used discreet folded elements throughout

her ‘secant’ collection of containers for london’s

ace Hotel, while Josep Vila Capdevila’s ‘trapped’ mirror

for aparentment serves both as a decorative and a

functional object. originally designed for an exhibition

exploring joints, leon ransmeier’s chair offers a softer

approach to the fold, with multiple curves intersecting

to create the sleek seat, combining aluminium and

carbon fibre in its composition. it’s a design device

that delivers clean lines and maximum impact.

Into the foldMind-bending metal works

‘trappeD’ Mirror, €90, by

Josep Vila CapDeVila, For

aparentMent. ‘piatto’ siDe

table, £2,625, by inDustrial

FaCility, For FuCina,

FroM twentytwentyone.

‘Carbon tilt’ CHair, $10,000,

by leon ransMeier. ’seCant’

Container, prototype,

by laetitia De allegri

Newspaper

∑ 071


writers: emma moore, ellie stathaki

Steep showwe’re raising our spirits to new heights

the fashion for aromatising your own alcohol can be

credited to two prevailing trends. the one that wants

none of your fake flavours, chemical contaminations

or superfluous sweetenings, and therefore insists all

enhancement processes be done in the home; and

the one that has us imbuing drinks with the flavour

heft of a five-course meal. to accommodate the trend,

the domestic design arena is gaining a new product.

kicked off by martin kastner of Crucial Design, who

designed his ‘Porthole’ vessel for Chicago’s the aviary

bar, alcohol infusers are proliferating, including the

‘alkemista’ by Californian brand ethan + ashe and

the spinning ‘incanter’ carafe by sempli. whether it’s

to macerate some moringa or permeate your pick-

me-up with parmesan or meadow hay, we now have

increasingly stylish ways to transform our tipples.

‘inCanter’ Carafe, $65,

by Daniele ‘Danne’

semeraro, for semPli

at albion works, Ceilings

were Cast against

sanDblasteD Douglas fir,

giving a rough, wooD-

textureD aPPearanCe. in

Contrast, walls were Cast

against PhenoliC PlywooD,

giving a smooth, almost

PolisheD aPPearanCe

work houses

our shoot location is in the east london

borough of hackney, where creative hubs

nestle among derelict warehouses and growing

residential neighbourhoods. Conceived by

Chris Dyson architects for a private owner,

the structure – a disused victorian cabinet-

making workshop – now houses five

contemporary, loft-style residences on the top

three floors and studio space on the ground

level. the development offers minimalist living

and all mod cons, at the same time referencing

its industrial origins through materials, shapes

and treatments, resulting in a richly textured

whole. inside, Dyson’s attention to detail, from

the bespoke fittings to the specially made

concrete ceilings, cast using sandblasted

Douglas fir, celebrates the site’s heritage. ‘this

project is simultaneously contemporary and

rooted in the 19th century,’ says the architect.

‘the new elevations present a palimpsest of

the past with their recessed blind windows,

while generously proportioned Crittall

windows frame long views across the gardens.’

chrisdyson.co.uk. See more at Wallpaper.com ∏

Newspaper

∑ 073



Big leagueBottega Veneta turns up the volume this season

Bottega Veneta’s new creative director Daniel lee

has been thinking big. the former director of

ready-to-wear design at Celine, under Phoebe Philo,

has designed two bags for the italian brand, and

our favourite comes in Xl proportions. lee drew

from Bottega Veneta’s renowned skill for intrecciato

technique, which sees strips of leather woven into

accessories, like its signature ‘Cabat’ tote. it takes

two days by hand to entwine the leather into this

hyperbolic take on the style, proof that time does

indeed work wonders. bottegaveneta.com

Bag, £6,825, By

Bottega Veneta

‘weaVe’ CaBinet, sek51,680

(€5,042), By lukas Dahlén,

for ringViDe

Newspaper

∑074


writer: rosa bertoli

Quilt by

associationUnique, handmade covers inspired by art, architecture, aunts, allies and apparel

Friends for more than three decades,

annabelle Harty and sheelagh boyce

recently joined forces on a creative

project inspired by their mutual love for

art and architecture. last year, the pair

launched arrange whatever Pieces

Come Your way to make handcrafted

quilts that reference architecture by

le Corbusier and Carlo scarpa, scenic

vistas and more conceptual images,

using materials they gather from family

and friends. For their two latest quilts,

QUilt 9, £12,000; QUilt 10,

£10,000, botH bY sHeelagH

boYCe and annabelle

HartY, For arrange

wHateVer PieCes CoMe

YoUr waY

the duo referenced a staircase in a house

in italy designed by architects act

romegialli, made using old Comme des

garçons and brooks brothers shirts

previously owned by artist Martin boyce

and chef Fergus Henderson; and oscar

niemeyer’s Communist Party HQ in Paris

recreated using clothes from issey

Miyake’s Plantation collection, belonging

to Harty’s mother. so why not take a

quilt trip down memory lane?

arrangewhateverpiecescomeyourway.com

Newspaper

∑076


writer: emma moore

‘Faaborg’ chair, £2,910, by

Kaare Klint; ‘Society’ table,

£5,442, by arne JacobSen,

both For carl hanSen &

SØn, From SKandium.

balance box, £50, by PhiliPPe

malouin, For umbra

ShiFt. ’gloo’ roller taPe

glue, ¥310 ($3), by nendo,

For KoKuyo. imitation

Squirrel-hair Sword

StriPerS, From £16, by

da Vinci; oil PaintS, £3 each,

all From JacKSon’S art

SuPPlieS. retouch PaStel

PencilS and cubeS, £38, by

caran d’ache. treStle

bowl, Price on requeSt,

by Zoë mowat. handmade

beSPoKe PaPerS, £8 For

an a4 Sheet, by mandy

brannan. ‘colorS:

retooling crayonS’, £34,

by Keetra dean dixon, From

PreSent & correct. ‘gloo’

taPe diSPenSer, ¥1,600 ($15),

by nendo, For KoKuyo.

comPuter Keyboard

bruSheS, £13 each, by

geoFFrey FiSher. throwing

toolS, PrototyPeS,

by chriStoPher riggio

leave it to nendo to revolutionise the childhood

joy of gluing. why have a round glue stick when

you can have a square one with a tip that glides

seamlessly into corners. the designer’s new range

of glue products, designed for Japanese stationer

Kokuyo, addresses all manner of adhesive

conundrums, from wandering cap to single hand

use. there’s a roller tape glue with sliding lid and

additional dotting mechanism and a colour fading

technique that serves as an alert for users of the

strong stuff – keep fingers clear until the bright red

colour has gone. Forget children, this is a joy for all.

we’ve seen it as an excuse to review our grown-up

craft box, designed for moments when we down our

everyday tools and pick up the fun ones. nendo.jp

Sticky

situationwe’re bonding with a new range of crafty accessories

Newspaper

∑ 079


writer: caragh mckay

Groom serviceJewellery designers are ringing the changes for men’s wedding bands

Opulent wedding rings have long been the bride’s

preserve, but jewellery designers are now responding

to singular requests from men. georgina Boyce’s black

rhodium ring is one such offering. ‘traditional black

rhodium tends to lose depth of colour quite quickly

and i wanted it to last, so i experimented using a

resin bake, which essentially locks the rhodium in,’

she says. the result is a glossy black, lacquer-like finish.

minimalist French brand Le gramme has toyed with

guilloché finishes and hidden-diamond formations to

create an elegantly rich alternative to the classic gold

band, while malcolm Betts finds that male clients are

‘increasingly keen to mix metals, experiment with

textures, and sometimes add diamonds, too’.

tOp right, Dk01 tuBe ring

in 18ct white gOLD (LeFt),

£2,785, By Dina kamaL, FrOm

DOver street market; FLat

cOurt weDDing BanD in

18ct white gOLD, BLack

rhODium anD resin, £880,

By geOrgina BOyce

BOttOm right, 2mm BanD in

18ct BrusheD reD gOLD with

Baguette-cut DiamOnDs

(LeFt), price On request;

verticaL guiLLOchÉ BanD

in 18ct white gOLD, €1,400,

BOth By Le gramme

BeLOw, pLatinum eternity

ring with channeL-set

DiamOnDs (LeFt), £3,950,

By maLcOLm Betts;

hOrizOntaL guiLLOchÉ

BanD in 18ct white gOLD,

€1,400, By Le gramme

‘carBOn tiLt’ chair

(as surFace), $10,000,

By LeOn ransmeier

Newspaper

∑080


writer: emma moore

From top to bottom, 601 Amber & Gaiac Wood eau de parfum; 301 Jasmine & Sandalwood eau de parfum; 701 Leather & Vetiver eau de parfum; 201 Apple & Driftwood eau de parfum; 501 Iris & Vanilla eau de parfum; 401 Lavender & Juniper eau de parfum; 101 Clementine & Violet Flower eau de parfum, all £51 for 50ml, by NCP Olfactives

Coast cologne, £59 for 50ml; Country cologne, £59 for 50ml, both by Thomas Clipper

I Don’t Know What eau de parfum; Amber Teutonic eau de parfum, both $260 for 100ml, by DS & Durga

‘Piatto’ side table, £2,625, by Industrial Facility, for Fucina, from Twentytwentyone

Mixed spicewe’re in tiers with our new multi-ply perfumes

Layering scent is not new, but a new push to put

customisation in the hands of the consumer is

taking hold. British brand thomas Clipper has

developed a trio of scents, called City, Coast and

Country, designed to mix according to mood and

location, while US brand DS & Durga has developed

a fragrance enhancer called i Don’t Know what,

which has the ability to re-animate any other scent

in your repertoire. the London-based experimental

Perfume Club has produced Layers, a blending

collection comprising three scents that can be used

to mix a unique smell in a fourth empty bottle.

meanwhile, the newest line to emerge from Sweden,

NCP olfactives, a collaborative effort between

actress Noomi rapace, hairdresser Steve terry,

record producer ash Pournouri, perfumer Yann

Vasnier and businessman Jonas Nilsson, puts you

in total control of your fragrance experience. the

line consists of short formula scents in bottles with

lids whose monochromatic bar design varies in

spacing according to its intensity, guiding the

consumer in the layering process. we’re now on

the scent of our own unique smell.

Newspaper

∑082


writers: rosa bertoli, emma moore

pump up the base

this new wood pizza oven, designed by

broberg and ridderstråle for röshults,

has got us all fired up. made from stainless

steel and teak with built-in storage, plus

the option of a marble-topped side table,

it can easily integrate into an outdoor

kitchen. want to update your pizza offering

to match your oven? Pimping your pizza

this year is less about toppings and all

about the base – the more nutrition you

can pack in, the better. italian flour

purveyor Polselli is selling paprika, turmeric

and hemp-laced flours, while alternative

grains, such as spelt and barley, and seeded

flours are also getting a look in. meanwhile,

keep an eye out for Modernist Pizza, the

next book in the modernist Cuisine series.

brda.se; roshults.com; polselli.it;

modernistcuisine.com

Born againachille Castiglioni’s iconic flowerpot stand returns in brand new colours

the strength of celebrated italian designer achille

Castiglioni, who died in 2002, lay in his unique

ability to combine simplicity with irony. His functional

pieces often took utilitarian elements and refashioned

them into works that combine style and substance,

the ‘albero’ plant holder being a perfect example.

Created in 1983, its tubular metal stands fan out like

the branches of a tree, plant pots balanced at its

tips creating a vertical composition of greenery.

relaunched by Zanotta in four colours (white, black,

amaranth and green), the arms can be rotated

into different settings and fully disassembled. zanotta.it

above, ‘albero’ flowerPot

stand in amarantH, £744,

by aCHille Castiglioni, for

Zanotta, from tHe Conran

sHoP. ConPots, £30 eaCH;

Plants, from £7, all from

forest. terraZZo Pots, £43

eaCH, by marie miCHielssen,

for seraX. ’UneartHed

interiors’ Pots, £70 eaCH, by

sevak Zargarian. watering

Can, £250, by george riding

rigHt, bbq wood oven,

£6,600, by broberg &

ridderstrÅle, for rÖsHUlts

Newspaper

∑084



after seasons of streetwear shapes, the men’s spring

catwalks signalled a shift towards more elegant

silhouettes. Overcoats and suits are returning to

tailoring, with stella McCartney and ermenegildo Zegna

offering sophisticated takes in check, but loro Piana

took things a step further, providing the answer to

all our elegance-meets-outdoors needs. there’s

a dandyish drama behind the houndstooth finish

of this overcoat, one which, thanks to the italian

brand’s weatherproof rain system technology, can

also withstand a downpour. there’s no better way

to steal someone’s thunder. loropiana.com

Shower powerloro Piana’s outerwear is right as rain

COat, £2,575, by lOrO Piana

‘DOra’ ClOthes stanD,

€199, by FerM living.

ClOthes hanger, €227,

by giObagnara

Newspaper

087∑


writer: emma moore

‘instrumentarium’

Pierogi set, including

Pastry board, rolling

Pin, sPatula, brush,

ceramic bowls, atomiser,

round mould cutter,

wheel cutter, dough

scraPer and linen

cloth, PrototyPe, by

stanisław stuPkiewicz

Pierogis, made by

Pierogi comPany

Dough boya student’s sublime pierogi set is top of the class

stanisław stupkiewicz is a proud Pole who wants to

ensure the international profile of his homeland’s

dumpling, the pierogi, is not only high, but high class.

For his graduation project at warsaw’s academy of

Fine arts, he has designed a refined 12-piece set,

‘instrumentarium’, for putting together perfect pierogi.

‘creating uniquely purposed tools encourages us to

not only appreciate the final effect, but also celebrate

the process of making pierogi,’ says stupkiewicz.

the dumpling is celebrated worldwide in festivals

(such as the Pittsburgh Pierogi Festival) and specialist

restaurants (london’s the Pantry by Pierogi company),

which often showcase creative, cross-cultural fillings.

there’s nothing to say you can’t whip up a wonton or

make manti with it – just maybe don’t let on.

Newspaper

∑088



Strap starsPractical accessories with well-hung good looks

Fashion’s current liking for hands-free

accessories seems largely to be of a

sporty sensibility, but for those in search

of both practicality and panache, spring

comes with a sense of gentlemanly ease.

at Burberry, riccardo tisci’s catwalk

debut featured an umbrella with a chain

strap, allowing sensible dressers to bolster

it across the body. spanish accessory

designer Álvaro González had more

sun-kissed adventures in mind. in a bid

to stop people from accidentally leaving

their shades behind on a sun lounger,

his single-strap leather pouch is roomy

enough to accommodate sunglasses,

credit cards and keys. luxuriously honed,

hands-free versatility, come rain or shine.

burberry.com; alvaro.ag

umBrella, £350,

By BurBerry. BaG,

£350, By Álvaro

Newspaper

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Scrunch time - Chris Dyson · Mind-bending metal works ‘trappeD’ Mirror€90by osepilaap DeVila...

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Transcript of Scrunch time - Chris Dyson · Mind-bending metal works ‘trappeD’ Mirror€90by osepilaap DeVila...