Caffe Europa No. 35

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www.scae.com Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 • December 2008 Голос Европейской кофейной ассоциации SCAE № 35 • декабрь 2008 г Café Europa

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Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 • December 2008

Transcript of Caffe Europa No. 35

  • www.scae.com

    Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of EuropeNo. 35 December 2008

    SCAE 35 2008

    CafEuropa

  • The firstcup

    One of the mostremarkable develop-ments in the decadesince the SCAE wasfounded has been theeastward spread ofthe speciality coffeemovement and of our

    Association we now have members and chap-ters across Central and Eastern Europe, in Rus-sia, in Turkey and in the Middle East!

    To celebrate that, in this issue were present-ing a number of articles with an easterntheme, travelling to Russia, Ukraine andTurkey, and also learning more about theibrik, which plays a fundamental part in cof-fee cultures across the region.

    We also look at bulk filter coffee brewing sys-tems and the potential they offer to the spe-ciality coffee world, and we talk to our newestWBC champion, Stephen Morrissey.

    Until next time, to all our readers we offerour best wishes for this holiday season and fora healthy and prosperous New Year.

    Charles Prager

    Editor

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    . WBC Stephen Morrissey.

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 1

    The Speciality Coffee Association of Europe is a companylimited by guarantee registered in United Kingdom, Co.Reg. No. 3612500. Copies of the SCAE bye-laws are avail-able from the Secretariat. VAT Reg. no. GB 894 2009 15.

    Views expressed in Caf Europa do not necessarily represent those of its Editor, the Information Commit-tee or the Publisher, the Speciality Coffee Associationof Europe. Articles and contributions by members areinvited; please contact the Editor.

    Information Committee: Colin Smith (Chairman), HughGilmartin, Charles Prager, Michael Segal, Jens HenrikThomsen, Mick Wheeler, Inga SchaeperEditor: Charles Prager E-mail: [email protected]

    Advertisement Manager: Jens Henrik ThomsenTel.: + 44 (0)1245 426060 Mobile: +44 (0)7775 504594E-mail: [email protected]

    Caf EuropaNo. 35, December 2008 Copyright 2008, Speciality Coffee Association of EuropeCaf Europa (Print) ISSN 1752-8429Caf Europa (Online) ISSN 1752-8437 Cover photo by Charles Prager, Stephen Morrissey, the 2008World Barista Champion and Tone Liavaag at the BaristaParty hosted by Caf Europa, Copenhagen, 22 June 2008.

    Printed in England at the Gemini Press, Shoreham-by-SeaAddress all correspondence to:SCAE Secretariat, Oak Lodge Farm, Leighams Road, Bick-nacre, Chelmsford, Essex CM3 4HF, United Kingdom.Tel.: + 44 (0)1245 426060 Fax: + 44 (0)1245 426080E-mail: [email protected]

    www.scae.com

    In this issue

    The Russian speciality coffee market . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2

    Coffee tour: Moscow & St. Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6

    Kofefest PIRSCAE 2008 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7 -SCAE

    A short history of coffee in Ukraine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

    The ibrik 1,001 recipes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 1001

    Cezve/Ibrik champions Gleb Nevejkin and Nadezhda Motylkova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18 /

    Serif Basaran Passionate Educator . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20

    Coffee quality AND quantity speciality coffee solutions for filter coffee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .21Coffee quality AND quantity speciality coffee solutions for filter coffee

    Gold Cup on course for a massive roll-out in 2009 . . . . . . . . . .26 Gold Cup 2009

    Growing SCAJ event chooses Okada as Barista Champion . . . . . .28 (SCAJ)

    Stephen Morrissey the 2008 World Barista Champion . . . . . . . .30 2008

    Swiss Coffee Day . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .34

    Round-up of international news . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .35

    Index of Advertisers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

    Coffee Calendar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44

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    The Soviet Union was predominantly a tea-drinking collection ofnations. However there wereexceptions, particularly thesouthern republics, and notablyArmenia and Georgia, wherecoffee consumption was consid-erably higher. During the Sovietperiod, the availability of goodquality coffee was limited.Import of green coffee was astate monopoly, and arabica wasmainly imported from friendlynations, particularly India. Thepreferred method of preparingcoffee at home was the turka(ibrik). In the lead-up to the1980 Olympic games, the SovietUnion began to import Italianespresso blends under thepatronage of the Italian Com-munist Party. At this time, theSoviet Union started to importprofessional espresso machines.However, training on how to usethese machines was limited atbest.

    After the end of the SovietUnion and during the transitionto a free market in the early1990s, private importers startedto import international brands ofinstant coffee to Russia. At thattime, the consumption of instantcoffee accounted for 98% oftotal coffee consumption inRussia. Today instant coffee isabout 80% and natural coffee20% (this statistic is from SFTtrading company at the end of2007). Overall, coffee consump-tion in Russia is growing:instant coffee at 3% per year,and natural coffee at 30%.

    Independent roastersemergeThe first independent roastersand importers of green coffeebegan to appear at the begin-ning of the 1990s. Today thereare about 30 small roasters inRussia that position themselvesin the speciality coffee segment.37 different types of green cof-fee are now imported into Rus-sia, the main origins beingBrazil, India, Vietnam, Colom-bia, Nicaragua, Ethiopia, Tanza-nia, Guatemala and Costa Rica.Of this, 5% is speciality coffee.All of this gives optimism thatthe speciality coffee movementhas got a foothold in the Russ-ian market. Imports of roastedcoffee continue to come intothe Russian market (mainlyfrom Italy, Spain and Switzer-land), and still supply up to80% of the Horeca market.However the move towardsquality gives reason to believethat in the next few years thesituation will change and con-sumers will turn towards fresh-roasted coffee. This will resultin an increase in the number oflocal roasters competing amongthemselves and driving qualityhigher. It is expected that thesame will happen with the retailmarket in the next 3-5 years,whereby locally roasted coffeewill replace imported roastedcoffee. While Moscow and StPetersburg have had a traditionof coffee drinking among theintelligentsia, the Russianregions were different. Accord-ing to Yuri Popov, the directorof the speciality coffee shop

    Coffee cultures

    Less than a generation ago, sellingspeciality coffee in Russia seemed adream, but times have changed. OurRussian chapter reports

    The Russian specialitycoffee market giant steps in a giant land

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 2

    Coffee lovers enjoying their drinks on a spring day, outsideone of Moscows Coffee House shops

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  • Coffeeshenk in Nizhny Nov-gorod: Historically NizhnyNovgorod was a centre of thetea trade, and tea was the pre-ferred drink in the restaurantsector: for every 20 cups of tea,only one cup of coffee wassold. However, over the last tenyears, the consumption of cof-fee has grown considerably.Today the proportion is 30%coffee to 70% tea. The numberof suppliers in the market hasalso increased where thereused to be two competitors,now we have seven competitorssupplying the Horeca segment,and there is room for more - themarket is growing at 30% peryear. Over the last ten years, wehave seen the sale of specialtycoffee through specialisedshops to the population growfive times.

    Local chainsThe first local chains of coffeeshops in Russia started toappear in the mid 1990s. In1996 the first Coffee Beanopened in Moscow, offeringclients a range of coffees fromdifferent origins, prepared indifferent ways. Clients couldalso buy roasted coffee to takehome. Over the years, the food

    menu grew to include cakes,sandwiches, quiche and otheritems. The chain now has shopsin eight cities around Russia.

    Coffee House opened itsfirst coffee shop in Moscow in1999. Now it is the biggest cof-fee shop operator in Russia,with more than 222 shopsaround Russia and the Ukraine.Coffee House started its ownproduction of roasted coffee in2007.

    Shokoladnitsa is currentlythe second biggest operator inRussia with 195 coffee shops ,and plans to open a further 100per year. In 2001, after carefulplanning,

    Coffeemania opened thefirst coffee shop in Moscow,which can truly be described asbeing speciality. Perfectionismto the smallest detail is the mainprinciple of the company, withtraining being at an unprece-dented level, using its owntraining centre: baristas are test-ed using WBC rules three timesa year, and since 2003 baristasfrom Coffeemania have wonkey places in SCAE worldchampionships six times. In

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    90. 1996 , , . . , , Coffee Bean , , . 8 . o 1999 . : 222 . Coffee House 2007 .

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    An elegant coffee shop in the Shokoladnitsa chain

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 3

  • 2003, Irina Puzackova was afinalist at the WBC (Boston). In2006, Anna Serova won theSCAE World Latte Art Champi-onship; in 2007 Maria Bozard-jan came second in the SCAEWorld Coffee in Good SpiritsChampionship and AlesiaSchichko came third in theSCAE World Latte Art Champi-onship; in 2008 Gleb Neveikinand Nadezhda Motilkova wonfirst place in the SCAE WorldCezve/Ibrik Championship andKira Malchenko won secondplace in the SCAE World LatteArt Championship. Coffeemaniaroasts its own coffee.

    In 2005, Volkonsky Kayseropened its first coffee shop-bak-ery, selling genuine Frenchpatisserie and speciality coffee.Volkonsky Kayser now has twostores, and its baristas havealready won five first and quali-fying places in the RussianSCAE barista and cup tasterscompetitions.

    Of the regional chains ofcoffee shops, Idealnaya Chash-ka (Ideal Cup) has 10 coffeeshops in St Petersburg and sixin other Russian cities. Siberian

    Travelers Coffee operates ninecoffee shops in Novosibirsk andthree in other cities, and has itsown roasting operation.

    The coffee shop sector inRussia is just beginning, and themarket is far from saturated.Even in Moscow, which has thehighest number of coffee shopsin Russia, it is not unusual tohave to drive for about an hourto get to the nearest coffee shop(although, to be fair, it may bequicker walking as the traffic isso bad!). In 2008, the first inter-national coffee shop operatorsfinally entered the Russian mar-ket: Starbucks, Gloria JeansCoffees, and Costa Coffee.Vladislav Rogov, managingdirector of Costa Coffee in Rus-sia says: Costa Coffee intendsto open stores in Russia and theCIS (more than 200 coffeeshops over five years). Ofcourse, the economic situationin the US and Europe affectsour country. On the other handthis motivates us to work moreefficiently and better, minimis-ing risks and not allowing mis-takes. Sabriye Berkant, generalmanager of Regusto LLP, Glo-ria Jeans Coffees Master Fran-

    : 195 100 . 2001 , . . : 3 WBC, -. , 2003 6 SCAE. 2003 WBC (). 2006 . World Latte Art Championship; 2007 . World Coffee in Good Spirits championship, A World Latte Art Championship; 2008 . World Cezve/IbrikChampionship 2008 . World Latte Art Championship. . 2005 , ( 2 ). 5 SCAE.

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    One of the Coffee Bean chain of coffee shops

    (Coffee Bean)

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    Not Paris, but Moscow: outside a Coffeemania shop

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  • freshly ground. Centrally locat-ed on Nevsky Prospekt, oppo-site Gostiny Dvor metro station. Nevsky Prospekt 40 (MetroNevsky Prospekt) 09.00 - 23.00

    Idealnaya Chashka St Petersburgs first chain ofcoffee shops. All the storeshave recently been refurbished.Sandwiches, fresh bakery prod-ucts, fresh-roasted coffee. www.idealcup.ru Locations include: Kareroostrovsky 2 (MetroGorkovskaya) Sredry 46 (Metro Vasilieostro-vskaya) Sadovaya 26 (Metro Sadovaya)Vladimirsky 1 (MetroVladimirskaya / Mayakovskaya) Ligovsky 89 (Metro LigovskyProspekt) Kirochnaya 19 (Metro Cherny-shevskaya) 07.00 - 23.00

    GammaCafe-Club, with three locations,DJ music and belly dancing.Coffee and alcohol menu.Wide range of salads, pies andpastries. www.coffeegamma.ruMoskovsky 63 (Metro ParkPobedy) Gorokhovaya 32 (MetroSadovaya) Griboyed va 20 (Metro NevskyProspekt) 09.00 - 23.00

    MoscowCoffee Bean The first specialised coffee shopchain in Moscow (6 coffeeshops in Moscow; 7 in othercities). The menu is focused oncoffee drinks, but also includesother drinks and desserts. Oper-ating since 1996. Cappuccinocosts 3 euros, espresso 2 euros.No smoking area. Interiors aredecorated in coffee motives.www.coffeebean.ruAddresses in the centre of city:5, Pyatnitskaya Str., metro sta-tion Novokuznetskaya, 8 a.m.-11 p.m.22/1, Sretenka Str., metro stationSukharevskaya, 8 a.m.-11 p.m.18/3, Pokrovka Str., metro sta-tion Chyistie Prudy, 8 a.m.-11p.m.

    CoffeemaniaA chain of restaurants with dif-ferent style of interior in eachof its six restaurants in Moscowand three outlets located atDomodedovo airport. Coffee-mania offers a big specialitycoffee menu. A cup of cappuc-cino costs 6 euros, and espressocosts 3 euros. The menu offersa large variety of hot dishesand appetisers as well as pre-mium quality pastries andcakes from its pastry shop. Cof-feemania baristas gained sixSCAE world championshipawards, won the EuropeanLatte Art Championship in2005 (Hamburg). Coffeemaniahas its own coffee roastery. www.coffeemania.ruAddresses in the centre of thecity: 2, Trubnaya Square Metrostation Trubnaya 8 a.m.-12 a.m.13, Bolshaya Nikitskaya Str.,Metro station Okhotny Ryad orArbatskaya or Pushkinskaya, 24hours46/54, Sadovo-KudrinskayaSquare, metro station Barrikad-naya, 24 hours6/9/20, Rozhdestvenka Str.,metro station Kuznetsky Most,8 a.m.-11 p.m.

    Volkonsky BakeryCoffee shop and bakery chain a real French bakery, the bestin Moscow. Interiors designedin the French style and theirown bakery production. Cap-puccino costs 4 euros, espresso2 euros. The menu offers bak-ery, soups, and salads. Volkon-sky gained six SCAE Russianchampionships awards. www.wolkonsky.ru Addresses in the centre of thecity:4/2, Maroseika Str., metro sta-tion Kitai-Gorod, 8 a.m.-11p.m. 2/46, Bolshaya Sadovaya Str.,metro station Mayakovskaya8 a.m.-11 p.m.

    ShokoladnitsaOne of two biggest coffeeshops networks in Russia: 195coffee shops across the coun-try, 139 in Moscow. This is thebest known coffee chain inMoscow. Open since 1965, inte-riors re-designed in coffeemotifs. Cappuccino costs 4euros, espresso 2 euros. Themenu offers bakery, soups, andsalads. Drinks menu includesbeer, wines, spirits, and tea.www.shoko.ru Address in the centre of city:58/2, Bolshaya Yakimanka Str.,metro station Oktyabrskaya, 24hours

    Coffee House One of two biggest coffeeshop networks in Russia: 222coffee shops across the coun-try, 119 in Moscow. The menuoffers more than 40 coffeedrinks with espresso, bagels,bakery, salads and Russianpancakes. Cappuccino costs 4euros, espresso 2 euros. Drinksmenu includes beer, wines,spirits, and tea. Interiors dec-orated in coffee motifs.www.coffeehouse.ruAddress in the centre of city:11, bldg. 1, Bolshaya Dmitrov-ka Str., metro station Teatralnaya, 24hours

    StarbucksOpened in Moscow in 2008.Cappuccino costs 4 euros,espresso 2 euros. Besides tradi-tional Starbucks, the menuoffers Caesar salad and cinna-mon rolls. Interiors in tradition-al Starbucks style. Address in the centre of city:19, Old Arbat Str., metro sta-tion Arbatskaya, 8 a.m.-11 p.m.

    Gloria Jeans CoffeesOpened in Moscow in 2008.Cappuccino costs 4 euros;espresso 2 euros. Interiors dec-orated in traditional GloriaJeans Coffees style. The menuoffers bakery, sandwiches, andsalads. Address:MEGA White Dacha-2 TradeCentre, 9 a.m.- 11 p.m.

    Costa CoffeeOpened in Moscow in 2008.Cappuccino costs 4 euros,espresso 2 euros. Interiors dec-orated in traditional Costa Cof-fee style. The menu offers bak-ery, sandwiches, and salads.www.costacoffee.ru Address in the centre of city:7, 1st Tverskaya-Yamskaya Str.,metro station Mayakovskaya, 9 a.m.-9 p.m.

    St Petersburg Black and WhiteHi-tech coffee shop opened in2002. WiFi. Award-winningdesign. Serves breakfasts, pan-cakes, pastries and snacks, anda wide range of coffees. www.bIackwhite.ru 25 Sixth Line, Vasilievsky Island(Metro Vasileostrovskaya) 08.30 - 23.00

    Abrikosov Traditional coffee shop with in-store roasting and a large foodmenu. Beautiful pre-Revolution-ary oriental decor. Wide rangeof fresh-roast coffee for sale as

    Moscow& St. Petersburga coffee tour...

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 6

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  • Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 7

    Winners (left to right): Valentina Kazachkova (Cup Tasters Championship), Tatyana Elizarova (Coffee MastersChampionship), and Nikolay Ilyasov (Coffee in Good Spirits Championship)

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    KOFEFEST PIRSCAE 2008This past October 1-4, in the framework of the big Horeca indus-try exhibition PIR held in Moscow, the chapter organised KOFE-FEST PIRSCAE 2008. The event included an educational pro-gramme, entitled Marketing of Your Coffee, with Bruce Millet-to of Bellissimo Coffee InfoGroup in the US and Sonja BjrkGrant of Kaffismidja Islands in Iceland.

    Four coffee competitions formed part of the event, including theMoscow qualifying round of the 2009 Russian Barista Champi-onship, with the top 12 participants going on to the finals to beheld in St. Petersburg on March 3-5, 2009.

    Also held was the Russian Cup Tasters Championship, won byValentina Kazachkova (Moscow, Montana Coffee Roaster Com-pany), with Sergey Zacarinny (Belgorod, KofeIn chain) in sec-ond place, and Mikhail Yanchenko (Bryansk, Coffee Paradisetrading company) in third.

    The Russian Coffee in Good Spirits Championship waswon by Nikolay Ilyasov (Moscow, Volkonsky chain), withPhilipp Leites (Moscow, Volkonsky chain) in second place,and Dmitry Boroday (St. Petersburg, Coffee Machines Ser-vice) in third.

    The chapter also introduced a new competition, the Coffee Mas-ters Championship 2008, which was won by Moscows TatyanaElizarova. The competition was held on superautomatic coffeemachines (Franke Spectra S) supplied by Franke. The aims ofthe competition were to raise awareness of quality and the impor-tance of stability of quality in the Horeca sector, where more andmore superautomatic machines are being used.

    The principal difference of the Coffee Master Championship andother barista competitions is the fact that the contestants have toprepare their drinks according to a pre-prepared flavour profile.The judges have to assess the finished drink compared to theflavour profile. The competition was held in two rounds. In thefirst round, the contestants had to make a flavour profile usingtheir own espresso blend. In the second round, the contestantswere given an espresso blend and flavour profile by the organis-ers, and they then had to prepare the drinks according to theflavour profile.

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  • chisee Russia: We plan to open70 coffee shops in Russia overthe next ten years. Apart fromMoscow and St Petersburg, nextyear we plan to actively developin the southern regions -Krasnodar, Stavropol, Pyatig-orsk and Sochi. The worldfinancial crisis has not affectedour plans. Lia Dovgun, Mar-keting manager of Starbucks:Thanks to excellent quality andexperience, coffee as a drink hashuge prospects all over theworld. And Russia is no excep-tion. We strongly believe thatoffering our respected clients inRussia the best-ever coffeeexpertise is the shortest way tobusiness success, consumer trustand public excitement over Star-bucks in this country. Starbuckshas deep respect for the strongcoffee culture in Russia and webelieve we will complement andinvigorate the local coffee cul-ture with our unique experi-ence.

    SCAE in Russia The SCAE has been active inRussia from the very beginning.Konstantin Voevodkin, SCAE

    Russian Chapter National Coor-dinator: Starting in 2003, wehave continually tried to show themarket what an amazing and var-ied product coffee is. We haveheld barista championshipsthroughout Russia, organisededucational programmes, andstarted forums. Today the profes-sion of barista is no longer a sur-prise to most Horeca operators,and many coffee shop owners arenow making sure that their staffhave adequate coffee training. Ofcourse, this is still only the begin-ning, but we are witnessing thebirth of coffee culture in Russiaand in a few years we will seethat quality coffee has become apart of our life. Our aim is tomake sure this happens soonerrather than later. The SCAE hasbeen holding competitions inRussia since 2003. Many youngcoffee specialists have beenthrough them and now hold keymanagement positions in the spe-ciality coffee industry in Russia.

    Even though today Russiastill remains predominantly atea-drinking nation, the coffeerevolution has started ...

    . , . SCAE 2003 . .

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 8

    National Coordinator for Russia, Konstantin Voevodkin

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  • The Ukraine is situated inthe heart of CentralEurope, and at 603,500square kilometers is the biggestfully European country, with itsrich agriculture making it histor-ically the breadbasket ofEurope. Not surprisinging,then, in former times it was usu-ally the Soviet Unions windowto Europe. With 49 million peo-ple, the country was also thesecond biggest republic in theUSSR, but now it is is lookingfor its own way in economy,politics andin coffee.

    A legendary coffeepioneerThe first Ukrainian working incoffee is legendary. His namewas Yuriy Kulchitsky. He was aCossack from Sambor inUkraine, and during a campaignagainst the Turks he was takenprisoner by them. During hisimprisonment, he masteredTurkish and developed a passionfor coffee. Later, he worked inVienna as interpreter. In 1683,when the city was besieged byTurks, Kulchitsky was sent as amessenger for reinforcements.Dressed in traditional Turkish

    attire, he penetrated enemy linesand succeeded in reaching andbringing the Emperor Leopoldsarmy to the aid of Vienna. Afterthe great battle and the defeat ofthe attackers, the city was liber-ated and Kulschitsky was hailedas a hero. As his reward, hereceived the now-famous 300sacks of coffee abandoned bythe retreating Turkish forces.Kulchitsky lost no time in usingthem wisely.

    Kulshitsky was arguablyEuropes first real coffee pro-moter. He personally handed outcoffee for free on the streets ofVienna. He organised a kind ofadvertising campaign, wearingTurkish clothing. He adaptedcoffee to European taste, literal-ly inventing Viennese coffee adding sugar and milk to easethe bitter taste of Turkish coffee.He opened the first coffee shopin Vienna, one of the first cafsin Europe. Kulschitsky, in awonderful exercise in publicrelations, also wrote a best-sell-ig book about his adventures.After his death, a monument tothis pioneer of Viennese coffeewas raised in Vienna, and there

    Coffee cultures

    Ukraine National Coordinator SERGIYREMINNY reports

    A short history of coffeein Ukraine

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 10

    An electric moka coffee maker from Ukraine

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  • is a street in the city that bearshis name. What other figure inthe history of coffee has been sohonoured?

    But all this was more than300 years ago. Thereafter, wecan only really talk of an his-toric coffee tradition for thewestern region of Ukraine andnamely, the city of Lviv, our so-called Coffee City where acoffee tradition (originated inAustro-Hungary) was neverinterrupted. People there havebeen making coffee for at leasta century by boiling it in smallpots (baniatchok).

    In the much less distant past under Soviet rule there isalmost nothing to say about thecapitalist drink which iswhat coffee was during thatperiod. Tea was totally domi-nant, and this why we inUkraine have the Samovar butno native coffee maker. Alwaysin short supply, coffee was forthe privileged nomenklatura,and what coffee culture therewas centred on instant coffee,mostly supplied by friendlyIndia, and Turkish-style coffee

    brewed in a turka (cezve/ibrik),long known here due to historicTurkish influence.

    During the Soviet era, a fewinstant coffee factories werebuilt, including the biggestUkrainian coffee factoryGALKA (making mostly instantcoffee), which was the only sup-

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 11

    Sergiy Reminny, NationalCoordinator for Ukraine

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    SCAE

    plier for coffee lovers here. The1980 Moscow Olympic Games(with events in Kiev as well)ushered in another coffee peri-od. La Cimbali had a big con-tract with the Soviet Union tosupply their espresso machinesfor serving coffee to internation-al tourists coming to theOlympics, effectively introduc-ing the new beverage to theUSSR. Maybe espresso wasresponsible for a new kind ofthinking in any event, just afew years after this, Perestroikabegan. And soon, even produc-tion of a Soviet style versionof the Italian stovetop mokabrewer started.

    Coffee today regionaldifferencesLooking at the country as awhole, it would not be correctto describe a national Ukrainiancoffee culture in general andinterestingly, for historic rea-sons, different regions todayconsume coffee in differentways. Basically we have fourcoffee regions.

    The EastRepresented by Donetsk andKharkov, this was traditionallyinfluenced by Russia (especiallyduring Soviet era) and has verypoor coffee history, mostlybased on instant coffee con-sumption and with no specialtycoffee traditions at all. But beingrich and with very big industrialcities, it has enjoyed the fastesteconomic development, and inthe last six to seven years it hasvery quickly reached what Iwould call the basic level of spe-ciality coffee consumption drinking espresso.

    The Centre This is represented by Kiev. Asthe nations capital as is gen-erally the case in developingcountries it plays an importanteconomic role. With traditional-ly 25-30% of national GDP, ithas been the centre of coffeedevelopment in the country. Thefirst restaurant and fast-foodchains and the first supermar-kets chains all began their pene-tration of the national marketfrom the capital.

    The South The big city here is Odessa.This region is a very attractiveto tourists, and as is often the

    case in such places, we see theextreme growth of coffee con-sumption in the summer seasonhere and coffee consumptionentering sleep mode in thecold months.

    The West This is represented by Lviv andUzhgorod, and, while last in thelist, it is in fact the leading cof-fee region in Ukraine, influ-enced by Polish/Austrian (Lviv)or Hungarian (Uzhgorod) coffeeculture. These are the so-calledpro-European regions, wherecoffee consumption is highest inthe country. Uzghorod is not avery rich or big town, but itboasts the highest consumptionof espresso in Ukraine. Peoplehere are the biggest coffee con-sumers in the country, drinkingthree to four times more coffeethan the national average.

    Consumption todayPer capita coffee consumption inUkraine has tripled over the pastsix to seven years. It rose fromaround around 0.4 kg/person in2000 to 1.31 kg/person in 2005(ICO data). For last two years,however, coffee consumptionhas steadied at more or less atthe same level. The explanationis simple: the speedy growth ofearlier in the decade is now isstabilising, as the increase inprices at coffee bars fails to bemirrored by increasing quality.Interestingly, the trends in coffeeconsumption closely mirror thecountrys GDP growth.

    TomorrowCoffee consumption in Ukrainewill unavoidably grow, but wecertainly need to work on it.The future is something that webuild today, and, for the future,we clearly see the necessity towork more on advertising andpublic relations. One approachthat we have used is to involvecelebrities in coffee promotion(generally not for any specif-ic brands). Last year welaunched a coffee show inUkraine called Coffee Star ofUkraine a kind of cup tastingcontest with Ukrainian celebri-ties a fashion designer,singer, theater producer, profes-sor of psychology, etc. instead of coffee professionals.The winner was legendary foot-ball goalkeeper of DynamoKiev, Michailov. Goal!

    We issue our SCAE Coffee Espresso gazette

    SCAE

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 12

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  • SCAE UkraineToday we have some 30 membersin our national chapter. Amongthe main initiatives in recent yearshave been four national WBCchampionships (developed as partof the major trade show in thefield) two Coffee in Good Spiritschampionships, Cup Tastingchampionships and our CelebrityCup Tasting championship. Weissue our SCAE Coffee Espressogazette, we have promoted a qual-ity espresso standard and distrib-uted an explanatory menu ofespresso-based beverages acrossthe country for coffee bars to use.Now we have announced a newproject for a Ukrainian BaristaGuild, and we have many moreinteresting ideas.

    Cooperation with the massmedia is an extremely importantpart of our SCAE Ukraine activi-ties. The Chapter works quiteclosely with journalists, andalmost all coffee market commen-tary in the media relies on expertconsultation with SCAE Ukraine.One Ukrainian television channelran a daily broadcast for almosttwo years dedicated to coffee andcoffee culture.

    Lastly, real drama unfoldedat the Fifth Ukrainian BaristaChampionship in mid-Novem-ber, as a suspenseful competi-tion was capped by the closestscore ever recorded between thetop two contestants.

    The battle between thesetwo, in the final of the event,was ended with the smallestpossible difference betweenthem: just a half point separat-ed winner Alexander Hadji(with 509 points) from hisrival, the eventual runner-upRuslan Yakubov, formerUlkrainian Barista Champion,who managed to achieve 508.5points from the judges in thecontest.

    The performances this yearwere beautiful, encompassinga wide variety of themes fromHawaii, through Life iswonderful, Coffee palitra,Chocolate glasses, CostaRica taming, to Coffee clas-sics. The themes, togetherwith the terrific suspense ofthe competition itself madefor some unforgettableimpressions.

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 13

  • For many in the West, theirfirst experience of ibrikcoffee is in a Greek orTurkish restaurant or on aholiday to one of the manyEastern European or Africancountries where the ibrik othernames for it are the briki, cezveor turka is the local tradition.Over the ages, a vast number ofmethods have evolved forbrewing up coffee in thisubiquitous and simple vessel.But, far more than just a lovelyand exotic experience, it alsorepresents a vast and variedcoffee culture on our doorstep.Recipes vary in the number oftimes the coffee is allowed to bebrought to a boil, in terms of theingredients, and in countlessother ways. Here are just someof the variations

    RussiaGleb Nevejkin in Moscow tellsus: In Russian homes, the mostpopular way of making coffeeis in an ibrik. But, like NewYork, Moscow is a melting potof people from all over thecountry, and there is no singletraditional recipe for doingthis. Here, each family has itsown recipe for brewing coffeein an ibrik, just like everyfamily in Italy has its ownrecipe for tiramisu. Peopleprefer different blends andsome only use specialitycoffee. Some of us just usecopper ibriks, while some useonly ceramic ibriks. Some useplain water, some onlysparkling mineral water, andothers only use non-sparklingmineral water. And, of course,everyone has their favouriteadded ingredients.

    TurkeySerif Basaran writes fromIstanbul: Here in Turkey thetraditional way of brewingcoffee in an ibrik is, for eachcup, to add 3-4 grams of coffeeto the ibrik, plus 70-80 ml ofwater, and sugar. Stir well, placethe ibrik on the heat and waituntil you see bubbles begin to

    appear on the surface of thecoffee. Immediately remove theibrik from the heat and pouraround one-third of the coffeeinto the cup (fincam). Replacethe ibrik on the heat and waitfor the second boil, pour out asimilar volume into the cup, andrepeat for a third and final time,pouring the remainder into thecup. Serve immediately, beforethe crema disappears.

    One of our famous styles ofusing the ibrik in Turkey is inpreparing Mirra coffee. Thiscoffee is from TurkeysSanliurfa region, located in thesoutheastern part of thecountry. It is brewed in a cezvewith a lid. To make it, we add 3tablespoons (per cup) ofcoarsely ground coffee into acezve filled with boiling (notcold) water. We continueboiling until a third of thewater has boiled off. Next, welet the boiled water cool untilthe grounds (telve) have settledto the bottom of the cezve.Then we slowly and carefullypour the brewed coffee without the coffee grounds into a second cezve and let thisboil again for 3-4 minutes.During the boiling we add also3-4 pieces of cardamom(kakule). If we dont usecardamom, we boil it 2-3minutes longer then usual. Weallow it to boil until the cremadisappears, and then it is readyto serve.

    The Dibek The dibek is a old and simplecoffee grinding system usedformerly in Turkey. The coffeeis ground in a large stone bowlusing a metal or wooden pestle(shaped like a baseball bat),until it reaches the finepowdered state traditionallyused for Turkish coffee.Grinding coffee this way takes along time and effort, and this isone of the first grinding systemsto have been developed. Theother was the hand grinder (ormill), still used by many.

    Coffee traditions

    The ibrik one of the oldest coffee traditions is also one of the most varied

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 14

    An elaborate brass and porcelain coffee service fromTurkey

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  • GreeceKalomira Gerantonaki, SCAENational Coordinator for Greecewrites: Amazing but true, thereare 40 to 45 different ways ofserving Greek coffee. If youorder varis glykos you will get avery strong and sweet coffee,which is prepared with 3tablespoons (tbs) of coffee and 4tbs of sugar. Elafris glykos isprepared with 1.5 tbs of coffeeand 5 tbs of sugar. Polla varyglykos is made with 3 tbs ofcoffee and 6 tbs of sugar, andmetrios varis with 3 tbs ofcoffee and 3 tbs of sugar, and soon, which means that, dependingthe amount of sugar and coffeeyou want, there is a differentname to use when ordering yourGreek coffee. Many years ago,it was very important for thelady of the house to know all ofthese different ways of servingGreek coffee, and when a guestvisited her house, she had to beprepared to meet all therequirements of her guest andalways accompanied the coffeewith a traditional hand made

    sweet like mastixa or anothertraditional sweet, to show herhospitality and good feeling forher guests. Nowadays, thesetraditional customs have beenlost, but it is still very importantto know all different ways toprepare the drink. Greek coffeeis still first in consumption athome, and can be purchased insupermarkets, coffee shops,bakeries in fact nearlyeverywhere. One thing thatdistinguishes Greek coffee fromothers is that is roasted verylightly and has a blond colour.And it is ground very finely. Onelarge multinational company thatis trying to increase consumptionof Greek coffee has recentlylaunched a new recipe calledFRIO, designed for brewingusing an espresso machine andthen served cold, topped withcold milk froth. This has becomequite popular as well, as the two-shot (or double as we call it)Greek coffee, which is highlypreferred by young peopleduring their long stays in ourcafs.

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    16

    A modern Greel briki (top photo) being heated over hotsand and (below) traditional style Greek copper briki

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  • On June 21 , the 1stSCAE WorldCezve/IbrikChampionship was held inCopenhagen, with participantsfrom Belgium, the CzechRepublic, Germany, Greece,Italy, Lebanon, Russia, Turkeyand the United Kingdom. Inthis colourful and entertainingevent, the top prize went toGleb Nevejkin and Nadezhda(Nadia) Motylkova ofRussias Coffeemania,bringing home yet anothermedal to a country that has re-kindled its love affair withcoffee.

    Performing before a packedaudience and with the SabreDance from Armenian com-poser Aram Khachaturiansballet Gayane setting themood in the background, thecouple impressed the twojudges not only with their pre-sentation but also with thefreshness and great taste ofthe ibrik-based beverages theyserved: a plain black coffee, aspiced and sweetened coffee(using dark muscovado sugar,cloves and cardamom), andtheir signature drink, namedMish Mash.

    How they did itNobody wins a worldchampionship without greatpreparation, and together thepair put in well over a monthin rigorously perfecting theirroutine for the event. Now, inRussian homes, the mostcommon way of makingcoffee is to use an ibrik, so forGleb and Nadia this was by nomeans exotic. What theydecided focus on, early on,was first and foremost thetaste of what they wereserving.

    They had to decide onwhich water to use for brew-

    ing the coffee. It provedimpossible to bring the miner-al water they wanted fromMoscow, so in the end theysampled a range of watersavailable in Copenhagen,brewing up coffee in theirhotel, before making theirchoice. They were equallydemanding about their choiceof coffee beans. Gleb says,We went to Copenhagen withour own Ethiopian coffee, butwe tried brewing differentEthiopian beans in our hotelto see what was most suitablefor the competition. In the endwe used Ethiopian beans fromCoffee Collective. We are veryimpressed by the help theygave us. Coffee CollectivesKlaus Thomsen, the 2006WBC Champion, is a goodfriend, and I continue to beimpressed by the goodwill ofpeople in the coffee worldinternationally. Nadia adds,to make ibrik coffee, youneed a find grind. And whenyou prepare it, you use veryhot water and its easy to burnthe coffee. We decided to usean Ethiopian Harrar, since itcould stand up to brewing inan ibrik and still deliver afresh, berry taste.

    For consistency, individualibriks were prepared for eachjudge, to deliver identical bev-erages with good crema.Every ingredient used in eachof the three different drinkswas carefully measured so thatthe drinks served to eachjudge tasted the same.

    Mish MashGleb and Nadia named theirsignature beverage MishMash a name suggested byan Australian friend, a slangword signifying, says Nadia,an unusual but interestingmixture, something unpre-dictable but quite tasty. Each

    Winners circle

    CHARLES PRAGER talks with Cezve/Ibrikchampions Gleb Nevejkin and NadezhdaMotylkova

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 18

  • ibrik was dosed with 50ml ofwater and 2-3g of coffee andthen heated on a bed of hotsand until it came to a boiltwice. Small glasses weremeanwhile being chilled on abed of crushed ice. Around5ml of Grand Marnier waspoured into the glasses, fol-lowed by the coffee. This wasthen topped by a flowingmousse prepared by Nadiausing egg yolks, melted whitechocolate and the seeds fromfreshly broken vanilla pods,creating a layered beveragelooking something like anIrish coffee, with the judgesinvited to drink the top layerfirst.

    Nadia MotylkovaNadia has worked for Coffee-mania for five years, startingas a waitress. She thenbecame a barista. She says,For us Russians, its a newand interesting profession.Since then, she has judged invarious competitions in Rus-sia, and is now one of thecompanys four barista train-ing managers.

    Gleb Nevejkin A graduate of the Moscow Avi-ation Institute (State Universityof Aerospace Technology),Gleb says his fascination withcoffee began as Perestroikatook hold in the former USSRand new coffee shops beganopening in Moscow. Near theend of my studies, he recalls,I found my main interest wasin the atmosphere of a caf.And, step by step, I started tofind myself interested just incoffee not cocktails, not ser-vice or musicjust in coffee.He took his first job in coffeein 1996, and joined in the cre-ation of Coffeemania in 2000,where he is now the Directorof the Barista Department. Itsa job that involves, with thehelp of four barista trainers,overseeing the training of thecompanys 70 baristas in some14 different outlets, includingputting each barista through aWBC-style examination everythree months! As if thatwerent enough, Gleb is also incharge of Coffeemanias greencoffee buying, blending androasting.

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 19

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  • Serif Basaran spent mostof the day on June 21presiding over the 1stSCAE World Cezve/IbrikChampionship in Copenhagen,handling the announcements onstage, introducing thecontestants, and generallykeeping the show going. Thatsame evening, he collected theSCAEs Passionate EducatorAward for Coffee Excellence.Back home in Istanbul, he hashis own business the KivaHan roasting company buyingonly speciality coffees that havea Cup of Excellence score of 80or better, which he blends andsells to coffee stores in Istanbuland the rest of Turkey.He is alsothe importer for Rancilio coffeemachines, Puly Caff detergentand Routin 1883 syrups. On topof this, he offers coffee trainingto big coffee bar chains. Heconsults clients on how to set upcoffee bars, and provides theequipment, know-how, andfollow-up for them to get upand running smoothly. And, inaddition, hes SCAEs NationalCoordinator for Turkey. Inshort, hes a one-man specialitycoffee movement.

    Serif only came into thecoffee business in 2001. He wasliving in Sydney, Australia, and,he recalls, we had a franchiseand operated our own MichelsEspresso store, and I had theluck that my trainers at the timewere the current WBCchampion, Paul Bassett, andGeorge Sabados. Instaurator wasmy roaster. Clearly, he caughtthe coffee bug, because he beganroasting his own coffee, andsoon gained his Level 3 BaristaCertification. He became abarista trainer at Michels, andthen a franchise trainer. But heand his wife saw an opportunityand came to a decision to moveto Turkey, where his family isfrom, and Serif came to Istanbulto set up his own coffeebusiness.

    For those who dont know thecountry, Turkey already has over100 Starbucks outlets, as well asGloria Jeans Coffee, CoffeeRepublic and Costa Coffee allvying for market share. But Serifwas clearly undaunted by this,and within three weeks ofarriving in Turkey in 2007organised the first trial baristacompetition, in closecollaboration with SCAE, and onthe basis of that, staged the firstofficial Turkish baristachampionship in December 2007,sending the winner Turkeysfirst national champion to theWorld Barista Championship(WBC) in Copenhagen.

    While doing all this, he alsofound the time to train some 50baristas every month, and tolaunch a website and forumwhich now has 250 baristas asmembers. He says, Barista herewant to move more and moretowards world standards, andthe forum uses pictures andvideos to show them how dothis, and how things are donefor the WBC.

    He says there was a cryingneed for barista training in thecountry. Despite the presence ofthe big name companies, hesays, Nobody had a properbarista trainer or someone toshow how to make coffeecorrectly. So since the start in2003 when Starbucks came intothe country everyone wasexperimenting, but withoutguidance. Starting thecompetitions has made peoplerealise that there is a place theycan go SCAE to learn howto do things and get feedback onwhat they are doing.

    He tells them, Get a bettercup of coffee out of yourmachine. Look after yourequipment. Change the gasketsif needed. Get the best milk andlook after it, and get the rightjugs In a year, he reckons,

    SCAE

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    SCAE Awards for Coffee Excellence

    CHARLES PRAGER talks to our man inTurkey

    Serif Basaran Passionate Educator

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 20

    Serif Basaran (right), judging at the very first Turkishbarista championship in December 2007

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  • hes taught 250 people. Thats250 more baristas keen to learnthe art in one year alone. Nextyear there will be more. Serifwas elected Turkeys NationalCoordinator in April 2008, and

    since then the local chapter hasexpanded to 12 members. All inall, a most deserving recipientof the 2008 SCAE PassionateEducator award for CoffeeExcellence.

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 21

    Roasting coffee by hand, Istanbul

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  • In speciality coffee, we oftentalk about the perfect cup.Seldom do we hear thephrase, perfect cups. But forbrewing large volumes of cof-fee, the equipment that is avail-able today offers greater controlover the final brew than everbefore. The bottom line is thatwe can brew our coffee better,in greater volumes, hold it bet-ter, and serve more of this bettercoffee. Speciality filter coffee isreaching out. With the right cof-fee and the right equipment,hotels, conference centres, andeven petrol stations can alsoclimb aboard the speciality cof-fee train. Modern bulk brewingand serving systems offer themall flexible ways of managingtheir filter coffee service. Andbrew not just perfect cups, butperfect litres

    In this article, well be look-ing specifically at systemsdesigned for brewing into largeportable thermally insulatedservers sometimes calledshuttles or satellites. The capac-ity of these thermal servers canrange from around 5 litres to asmuch as 40 litres. One centralbrewing unit can fill severalservers in an hour, and a twinbrewing unit can fill even more.There are models available formounting on a wall, so thatlarge servers can be wheeledinto position underneath ontrolleys and then sent to wheretheyre needed. For cruise shipsand ferries, special models areavailable to run on shipboardpower supplies.

    The advantages: spaceThe smaller servers in therange are generally compactand take little counter space, sobrewing which can some-times get messy can be doneinside the kitchen and theservers can then be dispatched

    to a countertop, to a self-ser-vice station or to a conferencehall some distance away.Moreover, many portableservers also have a very smallfootprint. One of the most pop-ular sizes for a portable serveris 5 to 6 litres (c. 1.5 US gal-lons). Using a single brewerand these servers, a caf,restaurant or roadside petrolstation can brew range of cof-fees their regular houseblend, a decaffeinated blend,and a speciality or flavouredcoffee into servers that makeefficient use of counter space,either for dispensing by staffmembers or for self-service bytheir customers. For example,Brambles in Ireland (readersmay remember that their Dun-drum Shopping Centre cafwas the first to gain SCAEGold Cup Certification) usesthe Marco Filtro Shuttle brew-er in the kitchens of its sevenDublin-based delicatessen-cafes. The portable 5.5 litreservers allow them to max-imise visible counter space forproduct offers while guarantee-ing coffee quality. CaolnReid, General Manager ofBrambles, says, The coffeequality, holding capacity andtransportability of the RobertRoberts Shuttle solution hasgiven us an improved offerwith the ability to cater effi-ciently for low and peak vol-umes without compromisingquality in the cup.

    and timeThe systems also offer a num-ber of time advantages. First,they reduce the amount of stafftime needed for brewing andserving, and, of course, theservers can also be positionedfor customers to serve them-selves, which also saves stafftime. A second time advantageis that the great temperature sta-

    Equipment

    CHARLES PRAGER looks at bulk brewingand thermal coffee server systems

    Coffee quality ANDquantity speciality coffeesolutions for filter coffee

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 23

  • bility of the servers also helpsto keep coffee fresh for longer for example, during times whencustomer traffic eases off, thuseliminating the trouble andexpense of having to brew cof-fee over these slack periods.Conversely, for those parts ofthe day when there is suddenbut high demand, coffee can bebrewed ahead of time, freeingthe kitchen from just-in-timebrewing and allowing staff ingeneral to perform other dutiesat those moments of peak traf-fic. For hotels and conferencecentres where such sudden highdemand is routine, these brew-ing systems are ideal.

    Brewing unitsWhen looking at a brewingunit, you will be considering anumber of options. The firstthing you need to decide iswhat your peak brewingdemand will be, i.e., the maxi-mum number of litres that youneed to brew per hour at thebusiest time of your day. Youwill need a brewing unit thatcan cope with that peakdemand. You also need to con-sider the power supply require-ments of the brewer: some runon normal mains electricity,and others require a 3-phaseelectrical supply to achievetheir throughput. Some brewersheat the water on demand usingflash boilers, while othersrely on a tank of pre-heatedwater: here too, the choice willdepend on your particularrequirements.

    Digital or analogue?Perhaps the most important dif-ference in brewing systems,however, is the presence orabsence of digital controls. Sys-tems with digital controls arecommon, and the most sophisti-cated of them allow you to pro-gramme such variables as brewtemperature, water dosage, pre-infusion, bypass and pulsebrewing. Some manufacturersprovide pre-set recipes or willhelp you develop your own cus-tom recipes. You can find brew-ers that communicate withgrinders to adjust the brewingrecipe to what you are grinding,as well as monitoring softwareto assess your machinery andcoffee usage. These sophisticat-ed systems are designed forbusinesses that want to control

    the exact taste profile of the cof-fees they serve for example, alarge coffee chain, or a hotel orrestaurant chain that wants itssignature house blend to tasteexactly the same in all of itsoutlets, or alternatively, a coffeeshop that wants similar controlover brewing variables. Ana-logue systems, by contrast, havefar fewer controls and are engi-neered to brew coffee at the cor-rect temperature, with their verysimplicity minimising the com-plexity of the process and thechances of operator error. Forsmaller operations, these can beideal.

    Heat or InsulationIts commonly argued in spe-ciality coffee circles that apply-ing any heat to coffee that isbeing held in a vessel harms thecoffee, accelerating the develop-ment of quinones that give cof-fee a stale taste. Others arguethat low levels of gently appliedheat can be used with portableservers, helping to keep coffeeat the best temperature withoutimpairing the flavour. But in thepast decade, the manufacture ofinsulated-coffee servers hastaken big steps forward withvacuum-insulated, air-insulatedand foam-insulated servers,allowing you to brew coffee andkeep it at proper serving tem-peratures for a period of severalhours without adding heat. Allthe major manufacturers nowprovide them.

    ChoicesAs weve seen, a vast range ofsystems is now available forlarge-scale brewing intoportable servers. They vary interms of electrical requirements,brewing capacities, server sizes,analogue or digital controls(with or without communica-tions capabilities), non-heatedor heated servers, the type ofinsulation used in the server, aswell as in safety and other fea-tures. As an introduction, weshow brewing systems for eightdifferent manufacturers that alllive up to their promise. In themodels that weve chosen toillustrate this article all areshown with non-heated insulat-ed servers. Visit the manufactur-ers websites to get an idea ofthe full range of configurationsthat are available or to find asupplier near you.

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 24

  • Marco Beverage Systemswww.marco.ie

    Model no. | :

    Filtro Shuttle Server capacity (as shown) | ( ):5.5 litres | 5,5

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:c. 34 litres | 189 cups |

    Server insulation | :Vacuum |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Analogue /

    Coffee Queen ABwww.coffeequeen.com

    Model no. | :

    Tower 2x5 litreServer capacity (as shown) | ( ):5 litres |

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:c. 50 litres | 350 cups | (@ c. 150 ml | )

    Server insulation | :Vacuum |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital |

    Bunn Corporationwww.bunnomatic.com

    Model no. | :

    Titan DualThermoFresh BrewerServer capacity (as shown) | ( ):11.36 litres | 11,36

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:129.8 litres |

    Server insulation | :Vacuum |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital | + pulse, pre-infusion & bypass | + , &

    Animo B.V.www.animo.nl

    Model no. | :

    ComBi-line 2x10wServer capacity (as shown) | ( ):10 litres | 40 cups |

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:c. 60 litres | 240 cups |

    Server insulation | :Polyurethane |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital |

    Bravilor Bonamatwww.bravilor.com

    Model no. | :

    B5 (HW) (W) StandardServer capacity (as shown) | ( ):5 litres |

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:c. 30 litres |

    Server insulation | :Air layer |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital |

    Curtiswww.wilburcurtis.com

    Model no. | :

    Milano G3 DigitalCoffee Brewing SystemTPC15 TwinServer capacity (as shown) | ( ):c. 5.68 litres | 5,68

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:79 litres |

    Server insulation | :Vacuum |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital | + pulse, pre-infusion & bypass | + , &

    Grindmasterwww.grindmaster.com

    Model no. | :

    PrecisionBrew PBIC-430Server capacity (as shown) | ( ):c. 5.68 litres | 5,68

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:c. 500 cups | (@ c. 148 ml | )

    Server insulation | :Vacuum |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital | + pulse & pre-infusion |+ &

    Fetcowww.fetco.com

    Model no. | :

    Extractor 2052eServer capacity (as shown) | ( ):c. 5.68 litres | 5,68

    Max. coffee production/hour. /:c. 125 litres |

    Server insulation | :Vacuum |

    Hot water tap | ():Yes |

    Controls:Digital | + pulse, pre-infusion & bypass | + , &

  • SCAEs Gold Cup Programmeis moving very fast, andarrangements are on coursefor a massive roll-out on severalfronts in 2009. The programme issupported by six sponsoringcompanies, all committed to theGold Cup aims of promoting thehighest standards in filter coffee:Bunn, Bravilor, Coffee Queen,Mahlknig, Marco and Technivorm.

    More BrewmastercoursesSCAE Executive Director MickWheeler reports, we alreadyhave over 100 people who havequalified at Brewmaster Level 1,and over the course of 2009 wewill run up to eight Brewmastercourses. These will be offered inGermany, Ireland, Netherlands,Norway, Sweden and the UnitedKingdom.

    VenuesSCAE conservatively expects thegrowing number of certifiedBrewmasters to certify at least 200new Gold Cup venues in 2009.

    Marketing supportEnhanced marketing activitywill accompany this growth.The Gold Cup brochure up tonow only available in English will be reprinted in Dutch,German and Swedish languageversions. Also, in our all-newwebsite revamp, there will be aspecial menu tab just for theGold Cup taking site visitorsdirectly to a mini-portal offeringfull details on all aspects of theGold Cup Programme andcourses, plus lists of certifiedBrewmasters.

    Want to know more?For further information, contactthe SCAE Secretariat or log onto our website www.scae.com,then click on the Education andTraining tab and then the TheSCAE Gold Cup Programmelink, where you can download aPDF brochure and PowerPointpresentation about the GoldCup, and consult an updated listof SCAE Gold Cup CertifiedBrewmasters.

    SCAE Gold Cup Programme

    CHARLES PRAGER reports

    Gold Cup on coursefor a massive roll-outin 2009

    SCAE Gold Cup

    Gold Cup 2009

    SCAE Gold Cup : 2009. , Gold Cup -:Bunn, Bravilor, Coffee Queen, Mahlknig, Marco and Technivorm.

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 26

    Why did we choose SCAE Gold Cup Certification?Our Grafton Street caf is renowned forgood coffee, so we want to be able to saythat our filter coffee is the best in the coun-try. Thats why we wanted to get certifica-tion under the SCAE Gold Cup Programme.And the response from customers has beenvery good. A lot of the coffee we sell is filtercoffee. We serve half a dozen different filtercoffees in the caf, and we brew it all to theGold Cup standard. And, though not every-body notices that we have Gold Cup certifi-cation, we are very busy. And the customersare very pleased with the coffee.

    Bewleys of Grafton Street, Dublin

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  • SCAE Brewmaster Kit

    The SCAE Brewmaster Kit isspecifically designed for the Gold Cup Standard.

    The Kit includes:

    1x SCAE Brewmaster Kit instructions 1x Brew Chart (in grams/litre (tablet

    style of 25 pages)1x Pitcher 4 litres (4 quarts) volume1x TDS Meter (EUTECH Instruments

    TDSTestr11) 0-1900 mg/L1x pH Meter (EUTECH Instruments

    pHTestr10)1x Digital thermometer with K-Type

    probe6x Sample cups, 120ml (4 ounce)

    volume, with lids6x TDS Solution, individual packets

    (1200 mg/L TDS)6x pH Solution, individual packets

    (7.0 pH @ 25C/77F)1x Shipping carton

    The SCAE Brewmaster Kit is availablefrom the SCAE Secretariat, priced450.00 plus VAT and shipping.

    Gold Cup Brewmaster Kit

    SCAE Gold Cup Brewmaster Kit - Gold Cup

    :

    1 SCAE Brewmaster Kit

    1 ( ( 25 .)

    1 4 (4 )1 TDS (

    ) (EUTECHTDSTestr11) 0-1900 /

    1 (EUTECH pHTestr10)

    1 -6 120 (4

    ) 6 TDS , (1200

    / TDS)6 pH , (7.0 pH

    @ 25C/77F)1

    - SCAE, 450 .

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 27

  • The Specialty CoffeeAssociation of Japansexhibition andconference in mid-October wasa larger event than ever beforeand drew prominent sectorvisitors from all over the world,reports SCAE past presidentColin Smith (who representedthe Association in Tokyo).

    The three-day exhibition had135 stands, many representingproducing countries. This wasan increase on previous years,and indicates the expandinginterest in speciality coffee inthe Japanese market. Theimportance of the sector wasunderlined by the presence ofthe Minister of Foreign Affairs,and by presenters includingkeynote speaker Judith Ganes-Chase (who looked at thecritical issues and challengesfacing the speciality market),SCAA president Mark Inman,sector pioneer George Howell,the Brazil Specialty CoffeeAssociations Gabriel CarvalhoDias and Colombias EdgarMoreno.

    The competitions, as usual,attracted much interest. Aftertwo days of heats and semi-finals in the Japanese BaristaChampionship, the winner wasAkihiro Okada of OgawaCoffee in Kyoto (who alsocame third in the World LatteArt Championship inCopenhagen in June). He willgo on to represent Japan at theWorld Barista Championship inAtlanta in April.

    The Japan Siphonist Cham-pionship was held for the firsttime at the SCAJ event thisyear, with steamed milk used todecorate the coffee made by thetraditional Japanese siphonmethod. Meanwhile, as a pro-motion for the Japanese LatteArt Championship, scheduledfor February, a preview trainingsession led by US Latte ArtChampion Layla Osberg drewan enthusiastic audience ofyoung artists. Finally, theEspresso Blend Competitionchallenged six teams of roast-ers from different parts ofJapan, each of which was given

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    EVENTS

    SCAE past President COLIN SMITHreports

    Growing SCAJ eventchooses Okada as BaristaChampion

    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 28

    Akihiro Okada of Ogawa Coffee in Kyoto wins theJapanese Barista Championship

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  • 13 green origins to blend androast to create the best espres-so. The judging teams com-prised four SCAJ members andfour young baristas, and thewinners used a blend ofGuatemala, Kenya and Ethiopiaat a fairly light roast level.

    At the first of the socialevents, the Welcome Party,SCAJ president TatsushiUeshima expressed his thanks toall of the participants andwished them an enjoyable timeat the largest event the SCAJhad ever held. He noted that, inthe centenary year of theJapanese emigration to Brazil,Brazil was the main sponsor ofthe SCAJ event. He also saidthat business-to-businessrelationships would bestrengthened by the event andthat this would help to improvecoffee products for consumers.Thanking the SCAJ for itshospitality, Colin Smithresponded by congratulating theJapanese organisation on itswork in promoting specialitycoffee through education,networking and especially by

    enthusing young people throughthe competitions. Closercooperation between nationalgroups in the sector wouldcreate a better coffee world, headded. The evening concludedwith displays of Brazilian andCentral American dancing;many guests joined in andadded to the entertainment!

    The Barista Party, held in theTokyo nightlife area of Roppongion the last evening after theChampionship final, was a funevening, and was well supportedby the younger element.

    Congratulations to the SCAJfor arranging a successful eventand thanks to them for theirwonderful hospitality. Manypeople I spoke to commentedon how valuable the conferenceand exhibition had been, andare looking forward to nextyears event.

    To see Colin Smiths imagesfrom the SCAJ Conference andExhibition in Tokyo, click onthe Gallery tab on the SCAEwebsite www.scae.com

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 29

    Clockwise from top left: (1) SCAJ President Tatsushi Ueshima and SCAE past President Colin Smith confer, (2) SCAJand guests at breakfast meeting, (3) preparing coffee with the Japanese siphon method, (4) Opening ceremony

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  • Stephen Morrissey wastwo years into his degreestudies in classicalmusic composition, when, herecalls, I realised wasenjoying the coffee shop I wasworking in more than Ishould. That enjoyment andrealisation have carried himall the way to victory in the2008 World BaristaChampionship (WBC).

    As a teenager in the town ofSkerries, in his native Ireland,Stephen learned his skills as awaiter while working a localItalian restaurant. His realintroduction to the art of thebarista came later, when hestarting working in a RioCoffee Co. caf in Dublin thatwas managed by his brother.Stephen recalls, My brothertrained me up one day. I thinkin a period of around four hoursI must have made 500cappuccinos, and after each onehe would say, Again. Again.Again. The caf used coffeefrom Bewleys, and some timelater Stephen started working atBewleys famous Grafton Streetcaf in Dublin.

    He says, I started off as abarista, and then a kind of headbarista, and this developed intoquality control. That roledeveloped to include more andmore training responsibilities.And eventually, when there wasbig revamp of the caf, I wasput in charge of quality controland all training, which wasgreat, as it exposed me toroasting. Bewleys has a verystrong training team, so Ilearned how to train efficientlyand how to really get the mostout of a session and how to dealwith people.

    From AthensDuring this time, he also begancompeting in Irish baristachampionships, placing second

    in the national competitions in2003 and 2004. In 2005, hetravelled to the annual SCAEevent in Athens, where he wasinvited to compete in the firstSCAE World Latte Art and firstSCAE Coffee in Good Spiritschampionships.

    He recalls: Troels OverdalPoulsen was there it was justbefore he won the 2005 WBC ashort while later. I rememberturning up to do somecompetitions and not beingsuper well prepared and askinghim if I could borrow somethings. To his credit, he gaveme what he could. Lookingback and knowing what I knownow and how I prepare for acompetition, its kind of funnyto think of somebody being thatunprepared. In any event, hecompeted well, placing third inthe Latte Art and joint third inthe Coffee in Good Spiritscompetitions. Modestly, hesays, I had the good fortune ofbeing quick. I think it helpedme in that situation.

    He describes his experiencesin Athens as something of awatershed. More important thanthe trophies that he broughtback to Ireland, were thelessons that he took home. Itwas in Athens that I saw thewider coffee community andthat there were people forwhom it wasnt just a means toan end or a part-time job, butwho took it very seriously. Isaw a standard among thecompetitors that was veryimpressive. It was an eye-opener.

    To CopenhagenFast forward to 2008: Stephenhas clearly learned how toprepare. He wins the IrishBarista Championship, the IrishLatter Art Championship andthe Irish Cup TastersChampionship the first person

    WBC

    CHARLES PRAGER reports

    Meet Stephen Morrissey the 2008 World BaristaChampion

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 30

    Athens 2005: World Latte Art Championship winners (leftto right): Torels Poulsen (Denmark, 2nd place), JohanCarlstrm (Sweden, 1st), Stephen Morrissey (Ireland, 3rd)

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  • ever to win three nationalchampionships in one year.Going into the WBC event inCopenhagen, he says, Id put

    in all the hard work inpreparing the technical side ofthings for the Irishchampionship, so the greater

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 31

    Copenhagen 2005: Stephen Morrissey with his first placetrophy

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  • challenge for the WBC was toenjoy it more, to just dosomething personal and dowhat I wanted to do.

    One of the things that manypeople remember about hisperformance in Copenhagen isthat he didnt use a tray whenhe served his espressos to thefour judges. Instead, he carriedthem: 3 cups in his left hand,and one in his right a second-nature habit from his days as awaiter. But that wasnt what hisperformance was really about.I wanted it to be personal. Iwanted to have a genuineconnection with the judges, anda sense of theatre that theaudience would enjoy. Ratherthan tell the judges about thecoffee he was serving, he letthem taste it first. This hadnever been done before in aWBC competition. Stephensays, By getting the judges totaste the coffee first, rather thanmy telling them what they weregoing to taste, I could let themexperience the coffee as I firstexperienced it. Theres always afear, when you tell someone

    what the flavours are, thattheyre going to look for thoseflavours, and that will alter howthey enjoy the coffee. But ifyou let them approach thecoffee with an open mind, theythemselves can have a morenatural response.

    The coffeesFor the record, the coffee heused was the very first blendsold by Square Mile CoffeeRoasters, where he now worksalongside 2007 WBC championJames Hoffmann and 2007SCAE World Cup TastersChampion Annete Moldvaer. Itwas a 50/50 seasonal blend ofcoffee from El Bosque inGuatemala and coffee fromNyamagabe Cooperative inRwanda, both coffees being100% fully washed, sun-driedBourbon varietals. He says,The places where they aregrown, the soil and the climategive the two coffees verydifferent taste profiles, and theywork very well together. Theblend is not too heavy-bodied,and has a nice apricot/custard/buttery taste. Its got

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 32

    At nearly ten minutes into his performance, watched by the WBC technical judges, tasting judges and timekeepers,Stephen Morrissey prepares the signature drink that helps him to victory in the 2008 World Barista Championship

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    fruitiness and acidity, but its allwell controlled, so its veryclean, soft and sweet. Oneattribute that weve alwayslooked for at Square MileCoffee Roasters is to have anespresso that is veryapproachable, that has enoughbalance, clarity and sweetnessthat you can even have a fewespressos without feelingoverwhelmed.

    He used this blend in all thebeverages that he served to thejudges at the WBC: theespressos, cappuccinos and inthe signature drink. Thecappuccinos were made withmilk heated to just 50 C Stephen likes it that way. Theresult, he says, was acappuccino with great balance,at a great temperature, withreally nice brown sugarsweetness all the attributes ofa great dessert. For thesignature drinks, which hedeveloped with London chefBea Vo, he placed a lightchocolate mousse into smallglasses and then topped thiswith a piece of panna cotta and

    then some blueberry jelly. Hethen used a blowtorch to getthese to start melting, and thenadded espressos to finish themelting process. The result wasa drink that combined theflavours of coffee, blueberryand chocolate.

    On coffee competitionsAsked about the role played bychampionships such as theWBC, Stephen replied,Theyre very, very important.If you even just took thetechnical score sheets for theWBC and gave them to cafsaround the world and askedthem to follow it, and if theyjust did that alone, they wouldsee an immense difference inthe coffee being served. Thecompetition is not there, Ithink, to help or glorify thechampions. Its there topresent a standard for theworld to follow. It doesntoffer a direct or very real cafexperience, but its notsupposed to its to show howthings could be. For himself,he says, I just hope that Inever stop learning.

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 33

  • Seventy percent of Swiss adultsdrink coffee every day butmany may be unaware of thetechniques and precision involved in itsproduction and processing. Switzer-lands first National Coffee Dayaimed to change that by raisingawareness of the increasinglysophisticated beverages producedfrom the roasting and grinding ofbeans. Coffee is such a part ofeveryday life in Switzerland itshard to believe there hasnt beena national event to celebrate itbefore.

    But that changed on Friday,September 26, Swiss NationalCoffee Day, when more than 250restaurants, roasters, bakeries,hotels, coffee bars and shops paidtribute to the beverage with arange of activities. The day wasrganised by the Swiss Chapterof the Speciality CoffeeAssociation of Europe, inpartnership with the SwissCoffee Roasters Association,Swiss Coffee Traders

    Association, Swiss Coffee ShopOwners Association, SwissGastronomy Association,Procafe Coffee PromotionBoard, Johann Jacobs Museumand Brita.

    The first of what promises tobe an annual event, the day wasorganised in all three parts ofSwitzerland, with web pagespublished in the German, Frenchand Italian languages, involvingconsiderable translation work.Some 300 different events wereheld across the country, reachingsome 5 million people. Over1,000 reports appeared in theprinted press and a specialwebsite received 10,000 visitors.The biggest Swiss newspaper,Blick, circulated 275,000 specialSwiss Coffee Day supplements,and 2,000 posters were displayedall over Switzerland all in all, agreat success! Next year, we willfollow up with our second SwissCoffe Day on September 25,2009.

    Swiss Coffee Day

    SCAE National Coordinator forSwitzerland, HEINZ TRACHSEL, reports

    Switzerland celebrates aday devoted to coffee

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    Caf Europa Voice of the Speciality Coffee Association of Europe No. 35 2008 34

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  • ITALY:Denmark triumphs at theEuropean Team CoffeeChallenge in TriesteFollowing up on its winningof the best nation award atthe Wonderful Coffee eventin Copenhagen in June,Denmark has once againproved it is the best in the artof preparing coffee in variousdisciplines by triumphing atthe European Team CoffeeChallenge in Trieste in mid-November, Alf Kramerreports. Congratulations,Denmark!

    The runner-up once againwas Russia. They were soclose this time could thatmean a win next time?

    Very happy and cheerfulwith their number three placewas Ireland, with the currentWorld Barista ChampionStephen Morrissey looking onduring the last day. Well doneto Ireland and to all theteams. Alf Kramer in Trieste

    To see Alf Kramers imagesfrom the European TeamCoffee Challenge at theTriestespresso Expo, click onthe Gallery tab on the SCAEwebsite www.scae.com

    UNITED KINGDOM:UKBC announces dates anddetails for 2009 regionalheatsThe UK Barista ChampionshipCommittee in early Novemberannounced the dates for theheats of the 2009 event.

    The heats for theChampionship will beginJanuary 14-15 for NorthernIreland in Belfast; thenScotlands finalist will bedecided at an event inEdinburgh January 21, whilethe West England and SouthWales final is set for January28 in Cardiff.

    February 4-5 sees theSouth West championshiptaking place in Exeter, whilethe North chooses its finalistin Newcastle on February 18,and the South East eventtakes place in Lewes onFebruary 25. (The Februarydate and venue for theMidlands competition are still

    to be announced.)The heats will lead to the

    Semi-finals and Finals inScotland in early March,according to the organisers.The winner of the UKBC willcompete in the World BaristaChampionship in Atlanta inApril.

    Baristi who wish toregister to compete in theUKBC should send a chequepayable to SCAE UK for 35(or 25 in the case of SCAEmembers), to Paul Meikle-Janney at Coffee Community,Midway House, HuddersfieldRoad, Meltham, HuddersfieldHD9 4AF, UK; or [email protected] visit www.scaeuk.com formore details.

    FRANCE: Llia Ltin becomes first everFrench cup tasting championSCAE France in early Octoberheld the countrys first everCup Tasting Championship,the chapters MichaelMcCauley reports. Held partlyto mark the 20th anniversaryof Fairtrade coffee, the eventhighlighted this sector byusing 22 different Fairtradecoffees in the competition.

    Ten candidates competedin the beautiful setting ofsome refurbished winestorehouses in the Parc deBercy in Paris, and theirnumber was narrowed downto four finalists. Llia Ltinbecame the first French cuptasting champion, and shewill go on to compete in theWorld Cup TastersChampionship in Colognenext June.

    After the contest, sixFairtrade coffee producerswere given awards, after ajury of coffee experts andconnoisseurs chose theircoffees as the best in thecompetition.

    There was also anexhibition showing off thearomas and tastes ofFairtrade coffees, which wasprobably the first time thatwe in France publicly madethe connection in the chainbetween the coffee producer

    Brie