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Note:The walls and roof panels disassemble easily when its time to store away the cottage.
Even if you dont make your children or grandchildren anything elsethis year, surprise them with this winner of a project. We guaranteethat theyll spend hundreds of hours in it and cherish every minute.Theyll think youre pretty special, too.
Make-believe will abound in this playhouse
Even if you dont make your children or grandchildren anything elsethis year, surprise them with this winner of a project. We guaranteethat theyll spend hundreds of hours in it and cherish every minute.Theyll think youre pretty special, too.
TM
page 1 of 14
DOWNLOADABLE PROJECT PLANS FROM THE EDITORS OF WOOD MAGAZINE http://www.woodmagazine.com
Make-believe will abound in this playhouse
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Part
10
Bill of Materials
WINDOW AND DOOR TRIM
R catch supports
C 4P roof end blanksC 468fi"" 2fi"
C2"" "
Qty.
O roof panels 70"" 30" PL 2
T W L
Finished Size
Matl.
31"" 4"
ROOF AND CATCH SUPPORTS
Q eaves & ridgeboards
D ends
PL 1B doorPL 421"" 9"
PL 258"" 48"
Materials Key: PLplywood, Ccedar.
Supplies: 1fi"-diameter wooden knob, 10ornamental cabinet hinges (Stanley #1475), 10magnetic catches and strike plates, " acrylicfor window and doors, #6fi" flathead woodscrews, #81" flathead wood screws, #81fi"flathead wood screws, #82fi" flathead woodscrews, 32" hexhead bolts with washersand nuts, 1" self-adhesive foamweatherstrip, wood putty, acrylic caulk, primer,exterior latex paints.
Qty.
A front & back 58fi"" 48" PL 2
Part T W L
Finished Size
Matl.
41"" 17"
FRONT, BACK, AND ENDS
C windows
BATTENS, SHUTTERS, AND CLEATS
E window sides C 826"" 2"
F window tops & btm. C 814"" 2"
G door sides C 233"" 2"
H arched door tops C 222"" 4"
I door panel PL 114"" 13"
J front battens C 448"" 2"
K end battens C 448"" 1fi"
L shutters PL 422"" 7"
M roof cleats C 423"" "
N wall cleats C 448"" "
3/4x 111/4x 96" Cedar
FE
3/4x 91/4x 96" Cedar
JP
H
3/4x 91/4x 96" Cedar
H
K
J
FG
E
KFG
E
F
CUTTING DIAGRAM
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Start with the plywood front,back, and ends1Using the dimensions onpage 10and the layout on the Cutting
Diagram above, mark the outlines for
the front and back (A) on " plywood.
Mark the door and window openings.
(For interior use, we recommendbirch or fir plywood; for outdoor use
youll need exterior-grade plywood.
Use the best grade available. The time
you save not having to fill, sand, and
repaint the voids of a less-expensive
plywood will make up for the extra
expense.)
2Using a straightedge and a circularsaw, cut the front and back panels to size.
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3/4x 111/4x 72" Cedar
Q
1/4x 24 x 24"Plywood
IQ
P R
3/4x 91/4x 96" Cedar
K
M N M
3/4x 48 x 96"Plywood
(2 pieces)D
C
O
3/4x 48 x 96"Plywood
(2 pieces)
CUTTING DIAGRAM
C C
3/4x 48 x 96"Plywood
L
L
A B
22"
30"
A
3/4x 48 x 96"Plywood
3To form the openings, use a jigsawfitted with a plywood-cutting blade.
Cut the front-door opening to shape,
creating the front door (B). Next, cut
the window openings to shape. (To
avoid drilling blade-start holes when
forming the window openings, we
made plunge cuts with our jigsaw. Todo this, tip the saw as shown in Photo
A. Start the saw (if you have a variable-
speed jigsaw, start with a medium to
high speed and the blade set for straight
reciprocation rather than the orbital
motion). With the front end of the
saws bottom plate firmly against the
plywood, lower the reciprocating blade
into the plywood at the marked line as
shown in Photo B. Keeping the front
end of the plate firmly against the
plywood, continue lowering the saw
until the plate is in full contact with
the plywood. Make the cut. Cut
carefully, and save the cutouts: youll
use them for the windows (C).
4 Using the dimensions onpage 9, layout the outline, notch, and windowopening, and cut each end (D) to size.
Again, save the cutout from each end
panel for the windows.
5 Carefully mark the panel openingson oneof the four window cutouts (C),
and cut the four openings in each
window to size. Use a drum sander to
sand the rounded corners.
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Now, using this window as a template,
mark the openings on the three
remaining windows. Cut and sand the
openings in the windows to shape.
6Mark the openings on the door, andcut them to shape.
7 Rout " round-overs along theoutsideface of the window openings
on the door (B) where shown on theFront drawing. Switch bits, and rout
" round-overs along the outsideface
of window-pane openings where
shown on the End drawing.
8Buy a wooden door knob (we useda 1fi"-diameter knob), and drill a
mounting hole through the door for
adding the knob later.
Cut the trim, door panel,and window panel next
1From " solid stock (we recommendcedar or redwood), cut the windowtrim (E, F) and door-side trim (G) to
size.
2Using a waterproof glue (we usedTitebond II), glue and clamp the solid-
wood trim around the window
openings.
3 Using the patterns onpage 11forreference, miter-cut the door-top trim
(H) to size. Then, mark a 9" and 11"
radius on each piece where shown on
the drawing. Cut the pieces to shape,
and check that the inside radius on thedoor-top trim is flush with the door
opening. Sand the trim to match. Glue
and clamp the door trim pieces (G, H)
in place.
4Cut the door bottom panel (I) to thesize listed in the Bill of Materials from
" plywood. Drill mounting holes,
and screw the panel to the back side
of the door.
Now, lets add the battens,shutters, and cleats1Cut the corner battens (J, K) to size.As shown on the Front and End
drawings, miter-cut the top ends of the
battens to match the roofline on the
ends (D).
2Glue and clamp the corner battens(J) to the front and back panels (A),
using a scrap piece of " plywood and
a piece of scrap batten material to
To start the plunge cut for the window, position the jigsaw on
the plywood with the blade not touching the wood but centeredover the cutline.
Turn on the saw, and lower the blade into the wood, causing thereciprocating blade to cut through the plywood at the markedcutline.
B
A
gauge the overhang. See the Cleat
detail accompanying the Exploded
View drawing for reference. Also make
certain that the beveled top tip of the
batten is flush with the top edge of the
front panel.
3Glue and clamp the corner battens(K) to the end panels (D). Make certain
the mitered top end of the batten is
flush with the top edge of the end panel
and that the edge of the batten is flush
with the outside edge of the end panel.
4To rout the numerous grooves in theshutters, start by cutting a shutter blank
to 2230" as shown on the Cutting
Diagram. Mark a series of lines 1"
apart across the front face of the 30"-
wide blank. Fit your router with a "
MAKING A PLUNGE CUT WITH A JIGSAW
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round-nose bit. Using a straightedge,
rout "-deep grooves across the front
of the shutter blank. For reference, see
Photo C for how we used this same
setup to rout the shingle facsimiles on
the roof panels. Cut the four shutters
(L) to size from the large routed blank.
5Rip " square stock for the roofcleats (M) and corner cleats (N). Miter-
cut the top end of the roof cleats (M)
to match the notch at the top center of
the end panel.
6Rout a " round-over along whatwill be the inside cornerof each cleat
(M, N). See the Exploded View and
accompanying Cleat detail for
reference.
7 Drill countersunk holes for #8
flathead wood screws through thecleats for securing them to the mating
panels. Glue and screw the cleats to
the end panels.
A roof to keep the rain out1From " plywood, cut the two roofpanels (O) to size. As shown on
page 12, lay out the shingle grooves
where dimensioned.
To start the plunge cut for the window, position the jigsaw on the plywood with the blade not touchingthe wood but centered over the cutline.
2 Chuck a " round-nose bit in a hand-held router, and adjust it to cut "
deep. Measure from the edge of the
router base to the center of the bit, and
cut a piece of plywood to this width.
Using the plywood strip as a gauge to
space a straightedge parallel with each
marked line, rout a series of grooves
the length of each roof panel (O).
3Using the straightedge perpendicularto the top and bottom edges of the roof
panel, rout the 3"-long grooves
between the long grooves to form the
individual shingles as shown in Photo C.
4 Bevel-rip the top edge of each roofpanel (O) at 24.
5Cut the roof-end blanks (P) to thesize listed in the Bill of Materials.
Transfer the full-sized roof-end patternto one of the blanks. Cut the roof end
to shape, and use it as a template to
mark the other three pieces.
6Cut the eaves and ridgeboards (Q) tosize. Bevel-rip one edge of each pieceto match the slope of the roof (24).7 Clamp the two ridgeboards (Q)together face-to-face. Drill three "
holes through both ridgeboards where
shown on the Roof de ta i l
accompanying the Exploded View
drawing. Later, youll fit bolts through
these holes to pull the roof sections
tightly together .
8 Clamp the roof ends (P) andridgeboard and eaves (Q) to the bottom
side of the roof panels (O). Check the
fit, and trim if necessary. Now, glue
and screw each roof section together
in the configuration shown on the
Exploded View drawing.
Final assembly andpainting come next1With the aid of a helper, clamp andthen screw the ends (D) to the front
and back (A). To save time, dont drive
all the screws now; do just enough tohold the pieces together to check the
fit. A cordless screwdriver comes in
ha ndy fo r a s s e mbl i ng a nd
disassembling the pieces.
2Drill mounting holes, and hinge thedoor to the left-hand door trim piece
(G). Hinge the windows (C) to window
trim pieces (E).
C
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3Cut 10 catch supports (R) to size,
and use a pair at each window and a
pair at the door to mount the magnetic
catches. See the patterns onpage 10
for location and the Magnetic Catch
detail belowfor reference.4Check the fit of the two roof sections
on the walls, and verify that the three
" holes align for inserting the "bolts later. See the Roof detail
accompanying the Exploded View for
reference.
MAGNETIC CATCH DETAIL(TOP VIEW)
581/2"
11/2" overlap
11/2"
21/4"
#6 x 1/2" F.H. wood screws
8"
20"
1/8" acrylic panel,centered on insideface of window
217/8"
97/8"
1/4" round-overs
F
E
C
B
A
Magnetic catch
#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screw
Magnetic catch
Mitered corner
E
F
I
Strike plate
4"
4"
C
FE
F
1/8" acrylic centered overinside face of door windows
#6 x 1/2" F.H. wood screw
3/8" round-overs
Strike plate
#6 x 1/2" F.H.wood screws
J
J
H
G
11/2"-dia.wooden
knob 1/8" hole
1/4" plywoodcentered overback face ofdoor cutout
R=13/4"
Strike plate
3/8" round-over
FRONT
Ornamentalcabinet hinge(Stanley #1475)
Ornamental cabinet hinge(Stanley #1475)
R
R
R
9/64" shank hole,countersunk
24obevel
Note: The back is made the sameas the front but without any windowor door cutouts.
A
Magnetic catch
Magnetic-catchstrike plate
Door
A
B G
R
5Use an exterior wood putty to fill
the screw heads and voids in the
plywood. (Inspect the roof carefully;
we exposed a couple of voids when
routing the shingles. Due to the size of
the voids in the roof, we used acrylic
caulk to seal them rather than the wood
putty.)
6Remove the catches, strike plates,and hinges from the assemblies. Prime
all the wood pieces (we used a latex
primer). The edges of the plywood and
the end grain on the solid stock should
have at least two coats of primer,
sanded lightly with 220-grit sandpaper
between coats. Dont forget to prime
the routed edges at the window
openings.7Using an exterior paint compatible
with the primer, paint the house to
match the one shown in the openingphotograph, or paint it to match the
color of your house. (We used an
exterior semigloss latex for the walls,
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Produced by: Marlen KemmetProject Design: Don Mostrom
Illustrations: Kim Downing
Graphic Design: Jamie Downing
COPYRIGHT MEREDITH CORPORATION 1997
The purchase of these plans does nottransfer any copyright or other ownershipinterest in the plans, the design, or thefinished project to the buyer. Buyer mayneither reproduce the plans for sale noroffer for sale any copies of the finishedproject.
TM
page 8 of 14
24omiters
N
M
L
K F
E
D
C
2" notch21/2" deep
48"
11/2"
K
L
M N
Top end of cleatsstop at notch in top of .
MD
#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screws
5
/32" hole, countersunk onback side
#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screws
3/4x 3/4x 2"catch support
5/32" hole,counter-sunk
1/8x 8 x 20" acrylic panel,centered on inside face of window
#6 x1
/2
" F.H. wood screw
217/8"
97/8"
1/4" round-overs
Mitered corners
E
F
Strike plate
END
R
Ornamentalcabinet hinges
(Stanley #1475)
1/4" grooves 1/8" deep, cutusing a round-nose routerbit and spaced 1" apart
1"
Fasten shutters with #8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screws from inside.
CLEAT DETAIL
24o
3/4"
Inside faceof ends
5/32" holes,countersunkon inside,
drilled forattachingthe roof andwall pieces
#8 x 11/4" F.H.wood screw
M
ND
1/8" round-over oninside corner ofall cleats
D
K
Magnetic catch(see detail on Frontdrawing for reference).
both inside and out. Then, we used an
exterior gloss for the door, windows,
trim, shutters, door knob, and roof.)
8Screw the shutters in place.9Using a fine toothed-blade, cut "
acrylic for the doors and windows. See
the patterns onpage 9 for size and
shape. Drill mounting holes, and
secure the acrylic in place with #6fi"
flathead wood screws. Be careful
not to over-tighten the screws; too
much pressure can cause the acrylic
to crack.
10 Reattach the door and windows.
Adhere the weather strip to one edge
of an assembled roof section where
shown on the Roof detail accompanyingExploded View drawing.
11 With the aide of a helper,
reassemble the cottage front, back, and
ends. Check for square. Position the
roof sections in place. Then, use three
" bolts and nuts to pull the roof-
sections/ridgeboards tightly together.
Secure the roof sections to the cleats
(M) with #8 wood screws.
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page 9 of 14
R
=63/4"
63/8"
16"
9/64"ho
les,
countersunk
1/8"acrylic
DOORW
INDOW
3/8"
63/8"131/2"
3/8" 3/
8"
3/8"
20"
8"
12"
WINDOW
(4needed
)
3/8"
71/4"
9/64"holes
,
countersu
nk
3/8"
3/8"
3/8"
1/8"acrylic
21/2"
24"
48"
24O
22"
10"
19"
Mountshutters
here.
2"
2"
2"
19/16"
1011/16"
583/4"
141/2"
2"
D
END
(2needed)
481/16"
L
Moun
t
magn
etic-
catch
supports
here.
R
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page 10 of 14
22"
10"
48"
4"
10"
4"
18"
61/4"
R=9"
42"
FRONT
2"
2"
4"
26"
581/2"
61/4"
141/2"
Theb
ack
isthesamesizeasthefront.Theback
hasnocutoutsforthewindowsanddoor.
29"
AA
A
Mount
magnetic-
catch
supports
here.
R
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page 11 of 14
G
H
G
R=9
"
R=11"
18"
2"
2"
44"
DOORTRIM
33"
221/4"
45O
43/4"
H
R=
1"onall
inside
co
rnersW
indows
aremadefrom
windowcutoutandfromfront
andendpieces.
1"
1"
97/8"
1/4"
ro
und-overs
11/2"
65/8" 21
7/8"
111/4"
11/2"
11/2"
215/16"
11/2"
215/16"
WINDOW
(4
needed)
C
C
33/4"
415/16"
41"
R=1"onall
inside
corners
3"
2
"
3"
2"
71/2"
1/8"holefor
door-knob
scre
w
3"
DOOR
415/16"
3/8"round-over
alongfront
edge
11/2"
31/4"
61/2"
131/4"
117/8"
17
7/8"
3/8"round-overs
alongfront
edge
Door
ismadefrom
doorcutoutfromthe
front
.
B
AB
R=515/16"
R=815/16"
3/4"overlap
of
opening
inbackside
ofthedoor
I
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page 12 of 14
70"
Topedgeofroof
24Obevel
1/4"grooves1/8"de
ep,cut
using1/4"round-no
serouterbit
andstoppedwhereshown
21/2"
33/4"3
0"
1/4"grooves1/8"
deep,cut
using1/4"round-noserouterbit
33/4"
33/4"
21/2"
11/4"
ROOF
(2needed)
O
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page 13 of 14
P
4"
24O
ROOFE
ND
24O
295/8"
311/4"
24O
5/32"shan
kholes,
counte
rsunk
4"
fi
1"
SC
ALE
Toensurefull-sized
patternsarecorrect
size,
yourprintershouldbesettoprint
at100%
(notfittopage).Measurefull-
sizedpatternstove
rifysize.
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page 14 of 14
5/32"shankholes,
countersunk
24O
ROOFEND
(4needed)
P
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