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1The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
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acsT pt tt b i d J B lt ctg. T tk t pt
ptpt t t t tbt pg pb j t. T pt
t t :
Greg Valerio cred J, - t a rpb mg
(arm) - J at
Marc Choyt Pt rftv ig - J at
Veerle van Wauwe Tp sa b rJc t tt
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Luc Zandvliet dt t Tp r a
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Saleem Ali at P evt st t t uvt Vt
rbt s evt nt r
Sonya Maldar stg ctt b ittv rpb mg a (irma)
Ian Smillie c, d dvpt ittv, t Kb P.
mb rJc t g ppt ttv p.
Jennifer Horning G Pg mg, s, g t 2007 et J
st. mb rJc t ttv p.
Estelle Levin dt et lv lt., btq vpt t pg
tbt pp . mb rJc c ct
st mg sppt cttv P.
sp tk g t nk Bk pt t tbt k pptt t
t b tvt m. a ipt r ctt t t tg, t t
cpt ctzp mg, et cpt a, d B uK lt. h pt pt
ttv pt ggt ft-t g-k . i 2010, pt
tt sttg mgt, g pt tzp t g t m.
T t tk e i tg t t t pb g, J
Gv t. mk d s bg pv ptt bk t. T pjt t v b pt tt t p J B tg t pt,
l Jz t pt g, Gb oz v pt g, ebt Bk t a4id
-tg g t e hg-J t Bt g pt.
w gt t t g pp k t t g: cred J, Gg
V, ct c, Ptk s (.ptk./k/) Bgtt t.
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3The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
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kg t v -
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ptg gt pt pbt
t v tg p
p t t g, pvg t
t pt p.
s 2007, lt pt t t t t att
l ntk(www.authenticluxury.net) t
tt g gt p t
bjt tbt.
www.lieworth.com/consult
J at (Ja)
gt vt
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t t j
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p . Ja bjtv t t t
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kg t t j t
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vt kt vtg
pvg t pt.
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t t: t, pgg g pp t b g
p ppt -
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http://www.airjewelry.org/
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5 lisT o acronyms
6 oreword
7 execuTiVe summary
10 inTroducTion
13 conTexT
18 The research
22 leadinG PracTice
26 analysis
28 unVeilinG eThical excellence
36 conclusion
37 aPPendix: The Brand BenchmarKinG
49 Glossary o Terms and iniTiaTiVes
Cs
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5The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
ARM a rpb mg
ASM at s- mg
BMP B m Pt
CSR cpt s rpbt
DDI d dvpt ittv
DTC d Tg cp
FLO t lbg ogt
GAF Gb at t
GR G r
GRI Gb rptg ittv
IRMA ittv rpb mg a
ISEAL itt s evtatt lbg
ISO itt ogt stt
FJA J at
JoA J a
LSM lg s mg
KPCS Kb P ctt s
NDG n dt G
NGO n Gvt ogt
RJC rpb J c
SEC st eg c
SoW st wt
TAWOMA Tz w m at
TNG T nt G
UNHCR ut nt rg ag
WDC w d c
ls acs
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6 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
a t pb
t gg pvt
vt gt,
v. nt
k t jt
pbt t t
pb, bt k
tt gt ptt
t t tt tk t
t vt vt ttp. B
t v t pptt t p j
t pt t tk t g.
s, gt p t
p tt ppt g. w tt t
p t vt pb
pvt bt t b
v. w gt t tt
t g. Pp b j
t tvt b t bt b
t gtt, b t tt t v
t p. s t t tgt bt
t t t bt t t b.
hv, t pt tbt tt p, t g qt.
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pt t v. a t pt ,
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In Change, an Opportunit
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pt tt t v, t t
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pp, tg pt tptg
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tpt t g p .
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pt g vt t
.
Upliting the Earth t t gt t t tt
t g bt pt. ot t bt
p tp p t t
t bt t ttv. T
tt tgg p g
t g-g. it t gt t gt g,
t pt gt t t. ag
t vt p
j b, g tt t,
v t t g
ttt tt b
t t .
MARA EUGENIA GIRN Carrera y Carrera ceo t Inside
Luxury (lid et, 2010)
f
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7The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
ecu
Su
Luur jeweller brands have alwassought to set new standards. Consumerconcerns over the ethical sourcing ogemstones and precious metals havepushed luur jeweller brands toredene business ecellence. Corporateresponsibilit, thereore, needs to be
integrated as a core business unction tonot onl address these concerns, but alsoencourage more responsible aspirationsacross the sector and within societ.
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j b g t pt
pbt, pt t g gt
p t. B bkg B,
Bt, Bg, ct, c, cp, G
d, h wt, Pgt V c &
ap, t pt ggt v v -
pt pbt ggt. B
ct t t tv b tg t -
t t, vt pt
t b tgt t pp ,
t g b t tv p-
t tv.
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t v p p
qt tbt p-p
vpt , t tp, t
p t t t pptt,
t ttt t tp. T t
k p g t b t b
ptv v pb j. atg
t t ft vt
g j pp b
p pt, t t t p pt
j. T b k -
t, t t vg ptv t. B
g t pb j p,
t pt t v t
j, b t upt t
et b pvg t k, bg t
tg vt.
Tv k g :
1 it vt p- t t bt jp, tg g k tp.
T pt t t tt t b
b tt, t--pt g-
t t rpb J c (rJc),
k t t tk t t j t. wt t
t vb t t pb,
b t b tbtg t
jt tb . a gt t
t tp tt p qt,
gt pt tp b
j b.
2Gt t t pqt t t t t pt t. B tt pv t
t t tt .
Btt ttt t -t. t, b tt tt t ppt
ft- g tg t ttv
The jewellery industry has
excelled in transforming theearths minerals into objects
of exquisite character
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8 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
k t Kb P (KPcs),
t t ppt t? T ttt gt
t g bgt p b
t p t t KPcs k.h b tt t
t pt gt
p vg g t ? ept t
tp gt v. l
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t v t t b.
3T b t howt bt pt. a k t t rJc pt, b t
t gt p-
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-
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b g b tt t
k t gt
p t .
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tp t g
j b b tbt
t b pt. i gt t t tt -pt tbt t t
btq j b, t g b
tt b kg t g
b.
5T k t g b, b t tgt tp t t p-p . Tbt p t t. w
t rJc t g t bt
t, k t b -
b t tt bt t
tgt b k. T ggg
t p t tt t pp
t t ttg vtt t
t t t t. s vtt q
t k-tkg b t b tp. Gv tt j pt
t t, bt g b
t g, t g p
j t t b pp.
6a vpt k t pb b- t tt pg-v pp pg t . a
t p g
vg, pptt b b t gg
t p -
t vpt
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pgv p-
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7
T j t t .
ittv KPcs rJc pgptt pg p t
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gt. hv, g pt t
g t t t pt t
t pb pt t j t
t qt bt t pt t
g, pt g t t -
-g (asm). j b tt
tv pb b ,
t t t t tgt
ttv bt v b t p
pb b .
Gemstone clarity:
a metaphor
for corporate
transparency
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9The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
8 B t b g. skgt tg p perhaps p-tt b ptt, bt t tt -
t t t p, k ggt p. l tk k tv.
rt t kg t p, pg
p gt t t tkg t
b p v t tbt
t t tt p k tk-
g t t. t, b
vtg t tkg, t vt pg
t t t tt.
9a k pt pb b ptvv ftg tmeaning b- tbtg t t . B v-
g pb pt t p t-g t pp t tp,
p t gt t k tk t
p t. B
t t tg t, tttg g
pbt t gt t
pt. T pp f g
tp tt j p b
pb gt t .
10ag t t gv b t tb btq, b v B -b pt t t. apt kg b
ptt g B b, t -t bt pt p t ppg
t p f. Btt tgt pt p-
bt p q gt.
11 o pt pt pbt tt t j b t t g-t bjtv. a g b ttg tt
t pt pbt t g-t
g, v btt t, vt
p. it t b pp.
c t b kg
t tg t b t b p-
bt pt t pp bpv t j t.
12o t t bk b, t pp tt ct gt tv gt pbt. T j-
b t k bg t b -
g pt ktp. T g tb -
t b tvt, t b t t.
Brand
Boucheron
Buccellati
Bulgari
Cartier
Chanel
Chopard
Graff
Harry Winston
Piaget
Van Cleef
Burmese ruBies in ColleCtion?
Pre-embargo Burmese rubies
Unclear
Unclear
Pre-embargo Burmese rubies
No
Yes
Yes
Pre-embargo Burmese rubies
Yes
No
assessment
Active
Inactive
Partially active
Significantly active
Partially active
Partially active
Inactive
Partially active
Partially active
Partially active
SUmmary of the ethiCal performanCeof lUxUry Jewellery BrandS
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10 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
Adornments made o precious metalsand set with gemstones have been aeature o most societies or thousands oears. The buing and giting o bracelets,rings, necklaces and watches to markspecial occasions continues to growworldwide. The social and environmentalimpact o these items is important dueto the meanings the embod or thosethe adorn, but also because millionso people depend on the industr or aliving. Around 100 million o the worldspoor depend on the inormal artisanaland small-scale mining (ASM) sector,which supplies 10% to 15% o globalgold and diamond production. Thejeweller industr can thereore be animportant vector to improve the qualito lie in poor communities and thelives o all involved in jeweller romground to git. Responsible jeweller is
made o components that are sourced,traded, processed and assembled, thenpromoted and sold, in air, environmentallappropriate and sociall benecialwas. Luur jeweller brands have aparticular role to pla, as the have theconsumer mandate and product marginsto demonstrate ecellence to others. Assuch, the are the ocus o this report.
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iuc
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g pt t t t. a , b-
kg t btt t ptt
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j b t t, vt p, t pt t-
tt t t g p t
gt. T b t t
gt, pvg -
t t gt tp t t.
T b B, Bt, Bg, ct,
c, cp, G d, h wt,
Pgt V c & ap. atg t
vt t j
b t , t pt t -
g t gt, gv t pt
g pp t vt.
T bkg t -
t v g t gb
. i t pt t t tg v
pt ktp, g-
Nuggets of gold
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11The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
pt t
b pt bg p -
p pvg ptg pt. hggtg t
vpt, t nvb 2010 sp t
Vogue pb t t
j, -t J B ggt
t bg pt
b gt:
Today, taking our time is a rare pleasure,
and so seems something o a luxury. Taking
the time to create a product o exceptionalquality is thereore a hallmark o luxury. So is
taking the time to make the right decisions
rom a companys oce... Luxury needs to
take the time to demonstrate transparency
and humanity.1
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pt t tt t tt t j-
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m, b 2010 pt etk,
-pt gt t t pttg -
t t vt t ttv pt
vpt, t b vg p t t g
t bgt pt t n dt G pg.3T, t pt tt ctt p t gb
vt t j t t
t g. it t t gt kt
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g v, b t
t p.
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pb vb t t t
b pt pbt, t vtt t, t tt t b,
p-f t b btq,
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pt t b g pb pt
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tg: gv gt, v-
t, kp, t t.
T pt a p b t
p t t pp t
Uplifting the Earth
co-author Jem Bendell
discusses responsible
jewellery inVogue
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12 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
t pt -
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g. T t
tt, t g j-
b , t pp tt t t
tt g t t,
vt pt t b tgt
t pp . T ggt tt kg qt tb-
t p-p vpt , t
tp, t p t t t
pptt, t ttt t tp.
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bt ggt. B ct
t b kg vt
gt , Bg, Bt,
c, cp, G, h wt, Pgt
V c & ap t b t tv
pt tv t .
T t t b b b t t v t t j b.
atg t t ft
vt g j pp
b t t pt, t
t t pt j.
Kangaba-Mali
access hole to
the underground
shafts
Tg t v g pt p
pb j v t
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vg et e. it pv g
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ptt, t pp t t gt t t v v. B t t
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Deeper Luxury: Quality and Style When the World
Matters kg t v p
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b t t Deeper Luxury, t pt
tt g b lt ctg
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b pbt.
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13The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
C
The luur industr is going throughturbulent times. While growth orecastspredict a return to business-as-usualollowing the nancial crisis, there arenumerous unprecedented eternal actorsthat are impacting the industr.4Globalcommunication has, or one, enabledconsumers to be more aware o socialand environmental issues. The eplosion
o social media is changing the role oadvertising and branding. The shit romthe West to the rest has likewise maturedsucientl so that emerging culturalideas and icons rom around the worldare complimenting the well-establishedcultural assumptions that have guided theluur industr until now.
T gg pg t t
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t . a pt Bt ctg Gp
t 2010 tt b t ,
t t tq pp
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g p b t pt t b
t tg t t g
tt t . 5
T l ittt - t v
pb sptb 2010 tt, The State
o the Luxury Industry, tt us -
qtg t v
g t v t-t p-
t tg tt b p t g
tv t t v t v.
t-t pt t pp tt
b bg t tt
t k vt. T p
gt t t tt 56% tt tp
pt t ; 51% tt
pt qt g; 50% t ppg t v qt 48% tt
pt g t g v.6
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t t t ptt t t,
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a 2010 t b kt ip tt
47% v t tp 25% bkt
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g. i c, t tp 20%
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g t t tt - ptt pg g. s-
Jp, t tp 5% k
g pbt t g
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tvt.7w p t
The Ritz Hotel,
Paris, an emblem
of luxury for over
a century
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14 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
b tk t, t t
tt t b ,
t a, vt .
T tt p t tg
t p pt g
vv, gvg t pt
p vt. a 2010 w J
ct pt tt, Responsible Luxury,
ggt tt kg -
tt b ggg p v t p-
, , tt :
the awareness o the provenance and
production process o a luxury item has
become as important to the consumer as
the actual product itsel. Buying no longerjust demonstrates nancial or stylistic inde-
pendence. Knowing its oundation signies
a social conscience, a duty o care and a
deeper knowledge o cratsmanship, skill
and quality. In response, luxury companies
providing greater and more transparent
product inormation during the consumer
journey, can elevate a buyer rom simple ac-
quirer to inormed enquirer, an upward leap
o status in our post-recession society.8
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t t. T, t v pb
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gg.
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i 2010, t t v b, b
b v gt ptv pt vpt b ptg t b t -
g vpt t, pp.9T tp kg t
ptb g p-
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a t, t g pb
gg. mgg k g
qt t p t t gt t
. T l ittt pt Wealth and LuxuryTrends 2011 and Beyond tt
b g t ft bvt
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t btt t t -
t pb t t p
pt pbt tt gtv
pt t pp pttg b pt-
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ppt t t b ttg tt
p-vpt k pt -
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wt t t t, g -
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t v-
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Contrasts, Place
Vendme, Paris,
January 2011
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15The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
pt t p
qt, tbt
t t bttt t. T
pt
tt q b t tk t ttg t
gg t pt t pptt tt pb b pp.
l p t t
vt qt t pt f
t b. Jt b
t bg t tt t
pb pt. i
pt pbt g t f-
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t, t k tt g -
t t bv tt
t j kt t g t p vt qt
b , g gt pg pt
v.
s, t t t v
tvt b vt p
tvt b g t qt pt-
t t tt f b t t
t bv. Bt t -
b
t ttg vt
t t t. T, p v-
t p t vt btt b v p b.
T, t tt tg ktg
vtg t t v-
g, bt tt b gg vt
tt tt vv. o tt
p b tg t t t-
, t pvg btt vgp . ag t t stb c-
pt rtb, t pt Looking For-
ward, Looking Back, t t p b
t . T pt tt tt,
historically, the green consumer has
not been the tipping point in driving green
innovation. Instead, choice-editing or
quality and sustainability by government
and business has been the critical driver in
the majority o cases ... Choice-editing or
sustainability is about shi ting the eld o
choice or mainstream consumers: cut-ting out unnecessarily damaging products
and getting real sustainable choices on the
shelves.10
t t
t k t b t
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g g, j b k-
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t Kb P (KPcs)
ttg gt pt pbt.
rJc t p ptt pg
p t tt t,t vt gt. Tg t
Place Vendme,
the heart of the
luxury industry
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16 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
tt , g t -
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pg. KPcs t f
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ttg pt ttg pb j-
t.
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t t t t pt pp t
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t p vpg t
pt tb vpt. i gt
t t G 2011, t
g tt b t gg
b t b. i
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t t .
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KPcs t J 2011 t J-
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Legal goldmine in French
Guiana
bb gt KPcs qt
t t pt, g t t i
d it bt:
At Zimbabwes insistence, the agree-
ments violence clause has been altered
and now requires that three rather than
two KPCS member nations support a call
or monitoring, in eect making it more di-
cult [to] seek a ormal KPCS investigation
into alleged human rights abuses in the
Marange diamond elds.12
t, t bt t gt
qtb gt t b Zbb
mt m, m. obt mp, tt t gv-
t 100 t i -pt t KPcs b t tt t.13wt -g bg gt t bt c i
jt vt t t gvt- Zbb
d ct (Zdc) p t t gt,
Zbb gg t t .14
Bt b, ptt qt t b
k: t p t t pp
t tt t t pt g b
t k tt p pt
gt b pp t Zbb
pp?15i gg t t c, mgb
t tg pttv tt tt,
There is a memorandum o understanding
between China and Zimbabwe Beijing
supplies weapons to us, and we allow them
to mine diamondsYou can write 1,000
stories, and print them 1,000 times, but it
wont make any dierenceWe have all
the diamonds, so we have all the weapons
and we will kill anyone who tries to take
anything rom us.16
apt t t tt ttt t
bv t qt t t g j- t b v t b, ft
t v pt t tt tg t
KPcs-t t pt t .
t, t t ttt t
t ptt pt t
j t tt bg bt t t
p t tt Zbb. T
t 4% gb g pp t
t t t pt tt Zbb
b t t-gt pt p t
.17 wt 40% pt pp bg
j, qt KPcs b
g b t k t bgg qt
k t t pp .
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17The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
Qt bt t p rJc
gv tt t gv tt
t vpt tt t
b t t, ptt vg t tt pt t t tt
t .21w rJc vg tgv t vpt p
t b t b t iseal a,
t gb t vt
t, t t t iseal t t b
pt t pt, t-tk-
ttv.22rftg v t k pt t g, t cv st ct
tt ptptg t t tt
p t t ppt sptb 2009.23
T b v t t t, t b t t t t.
hv, rJc gt t KPcs
tt t ttv t t pt vt
Zbb, t v tt
t t pg p t
gt t k. i t t rJc
ppt KPcs t mg ,
et J op s m v
g rJc ptt.24
cb t t g t t
g g ,
t t vpt ggt tt gtpt pbt g t p .
B pg pt, t t
pt t t, t g tt
p tk f tt pt
v pt tvt pv ppt-
t t tk b . it t
tt tt t pt b t
btt t j b
b t vvg t b -
pt pb t. rk gt
t pt, bt t pt
t gt pt pbt
p gt qt, p p-p t b k t pp-
tt t t t tbt t t-
b vpt, t p tt t
b j b t tt t v
pb .
Quimbelete PitsPeru, used for
amalgamating
gold to mercury.
h tv t rJc t-t pp tgt
b t j
b. wt tt
v t b . i 2009
tv t Gg V, ceo rJc, m. m
r tt tt rJc t t tp
g b g tg
t pp .18T b p-p t t t, t t -
bt b t g tt t
b t pv pp pt.
T bt t t tv b pt t t tt rJc b t b
t b t 2011. i t t
t rJc b g p agG
at t t t G evt
Ptt att (ePa), g t p
p vt ,
t t t tv bg t b
g t t g.19s, rJc b J a (Ja),
t t t t j, p-
p gt tt pv gt tp
, t t pp-
t tt t b k pg. i t Ja, t tt t d k at,
bg us t p t t
t st eg c (sec) t
g t t -
tg p.20
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18 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
The Research
To benchmark the brands, data wascollected in our was: a review o publicinormation, direct contact with brands,a surve o eperts knowledgeable othe issues relating to ethical sourcing,and research on the shop foor o thecompanies. In addition, insights romeleven eperts on the leading responsiblepractices in the sector were used to helpidenti uture agenda.
Public Inormation Review
o t k pt btt pt p-
bt tp. T, j pt t
k t t vb t t
pb. T :
u t pb b t p
t vb t bt,
u v tbt ttv vt t t
j t tt gt t t -
p bg . ep , bt t t t, rJc, n dt G (ndG)
t a rpb mg (arm),
u vt nGo bt J
at etk tt gt t t
p bg ,
u csr tb, gt t t
vt p b,
u t t tg cv-
eiris (ept rpb ivt-
t st)
u t t pv 24 t.25
T t gt t pb-
t v tg
ptg t v-
t p b: gv
gt, vt, kp, -
t t.
i t t t b-p , pb
t gt g t j-
t t t g pt.
ep Bt et, cred J
Tp sa.
Contact with Companies
T pt t t tt
b t t t pb t
t g t t p, t p t
t tg pp t v-
t p t
j t. T t, v g
t t, vt
k t t j t t.
avb pb t t ppt
t p b ttg t b
t k t t t pt t v.
e b tt v tp t
p t pp t t k
t t k t ptpt. w
t t pb t pk t t tt
t, g t -p
v t p t v qt.
a b v p t v q-
t b . B p
t tg pt tt t
g t ptpt. sv b
-ptpt t g t
t p t . it t p-
t gv b.
Alluvial diamond
diggers, Sierra
Leone, Kono District
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19The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
expert
Greg Valerio
Marc Choyt
Veerle Van
Wauwe
Patrick Schein
Luc Zandvliet
Cristina
Echavarria
Saleem Ali
Sonya Maldar
Ian Smillie
Jennifer
Horning
Estelle Levin
affiliation
Founder of CRED Jewellery,
co-founder of the Alliance for
Responsible Mining (ARM)
and co-founder of Fair Jewelry
Action
President of Reflective Images
and co-founder of Fair Jewelry
Action
Founder of Transparence SA
and member of RJC standardscommittee
Founder of S&P Trading and
board member of ARM
Director at Triple R Alliance
Executive Director ARM
and member of RJC mining
supplement consultative panel
Associate Professor of
Environmental Studies at
the University of Vermonts
Rubenstein School of
Environment and NaturalResources
Steering Committee member
of Initiative for Responsible
Mining Assurance (IRMA)
Chair, Diamond Development
Initiative and a founder of the
Kimberley Process. Member
of RJC standards and mining
supplement consultative panel
Gold Programme Manager,
Solidaridad and organiser of
the 2007 Ethical Jewellery
Summit. Member of RJC
standards consultative panel
Director of Estelle Levin Ltd.
Member of RJC Chain of
Custody Standard and Mining
Supplement Consultative
Panels
madison
dialoguepartiCipant
aCademia
private
seCtor
Civil
soCiety
partiCipating expertS and their Stakeholder Spread
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20 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
Contact with Non-brand Eperts
T t p t tg t tt
pt t p tg pp tvt p t
j t. T t, bg v
t: t pt t t qt
tv b tp. i t
tv, p t t t
vt pt t t.
ept tt v t t
2010. ag t, t p pt-
pt vv t m dg gt.
T m dg -t ttv
tb t pt t -
t g g p, v t gp t kg t g bt pt,
tb vpt, v
pb g, t
. ev ptpt, ptpt
t m dg. T t gt
pt tv t v
tg ptg t
vt p b: gv
gt, vt, kp, -
t t. T tb bv
t tk p t ptpt.
Research in Brands Boutiques
T t t p-f ,
t t t pt vt t b t
l Gv t t pt
p ft -t. i ttpt t btt
t t g p t
t t btq t t v, t
qt t g p t b
t t B b. T
l t b25 t 26, 2010, t Pgt, Gv
J 22, 2010, t l
btq t t t.
T t l btq t-
tg k pg pp b
, t p g
p t gt p.
P qt ptg t t t
g t t, t pt -
p B b t b
t g t t t j.
T p tg t tv tt kg t p-
b g v.
T t Gv btq t t
pp. T btq tt k
v qt bt t g t b
t tt tg bk
tb .
Limitations
lk tg, t tt,
t -ptpt b t t .atg -ptpt b t
p pp t t , t b
p tt t k b bt
ptpt. T t j tt t
t tg pb b pt
b tt pt pt p.26
assessment Categories
Inactive
Partially active
Active
Significantly active
Very active
explanation
No evidence of policies or programmes on environmental, social,and ethical issues within the organisation or value chain
Some evidence of either policies or programmes on either
environmental, social, or ethical issues within the organisation or
value chain
Evidence of policies and programmes on some environmental,
social, and ethical issues within the organisation and value chain
Evidence of substantial policies and programmes on many
environmental, social, and ethical issues within the organisation,
value chain and sector
Evidence of leading-edge policies and programmes on a
comprehensive set of environmental, social, and ethical issues
within the organisation, value chain, sector and society
ethiCal performanCe evalUation Criteria
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21The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
The Benchmarking Results
T t t bv-t t
b t bk t b, g t
v-t t t tb bv.
T t t b t v
v ggt vt
. o t t j b
t t, t t b g pt
pbt B,
tv, ct gt tv. T t
t b t pt tv
tv, tg tt t gt
tt v t t tgt pt -
pbt pv . T tb b
t g.
i t t t bkg, t pt t-
v t t gg t
t bt pt. w t t
t gt.
Brand
Boucheron
Buccellati
Bulgari
Cartier
Chanel
Chopard
Graff
Harry Winston
Piaget
Van Cleef
Burmese ruBies in ColleCtion?
Pre-embargo Burmese rubies
Unclear
Unclear
Pre-embargo Burmese rubies
No
Yes
Yes
Pre-embargo Burmese rubies
Yes
No
assessment
Active
Inactive
Partially active
Significantly active
Partially active
Partially active
Inactive
Partially active
Partially active
Partially active
SUmmary of the ethiCal performanCeof lUxUry Jewellery BrandS
Responsible gold
mining, Americos
mine, Choc,
Colombia
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22 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
l pcc
Overall, the eleven industr epertshad heard little, and had limited directeperience o, responsible businessactivities b the ten brands beingbenchmarked. O the ten brandssurveed, Cartier was mentioned b oureperts as taking the lead on social andenvironmental issues due to its oundingrole in RJC and its partnership with
Goldlakes Eurocantera mine in Honduras.Two brands, Cartier and, although notpart o this stud, Tian & Co, werecomplimented or having taken steps totrace and control their suppl chains andrequiring suppliers to do the same.
w ct vtk t p t t,
t pt g pt bg
ft tg b Jel, cred
J, Bj, o, B t et, rftv
ig, mg c hpt, l B, cb
G h, t t tt, r & ct. cred
J, t, pt t cp o
V cb g t g pt.
o V pb tg t t
t g g pg, g t
tbt, bt g g t
t p t. s, t bJel pt t o V g.
i g t gt, cred J-
gt t g t t
o, b ptg t p at,
Fairtrade Fairmined
Ecological gold
from OroVerde in
its raw alluvial state
pre refining
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23The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
c, st a, Bz, Tz K.
a t pg t t b vp
gt, cred J
rftv ig t t p g -
t tt v.
a , t pt t k t
tt pt t b g pt t
t j t pv t b
t pt uvg et e. T
t v b gp g t t tg-
: gv gt, vt,kp, t t.
Governance and Management
T t v t gv -
gt t t tt g pt:
u tbt
u t g
u t t t pppt
ptt v p
Traceabilit
Tbt, b t kt, t
t bt t t pt g t pp
bk t t . it t t tp-
, vv t t t
t pb. t, tpt t
pb t bt tb pt
bt t b t t jt t pt t
t g. Tbt k b t b
b t f pt t pp p-
v b gt. Tp
tt tbt t b p-
g t kt bt t gt
t tt. o t v pt, gt
p tbt g pt.
i gt rJc p t t t b t -
-t tt pt t rJc t-
t t d k at, tbt t
t t ptt t g
gv gt. T d k at
bg us t p t t t st
eg c (sec) t g
t t tg p. 27
Ethical Sourcing
et g pg p t-
p t tt t t
gt gt, , vt -
t t tg t pp . ept g
tt gt p t t b t-
, t j t t
t p t t t btg
t, , t g, pg, g
g gt p t,
tg. et g - t t g gv-
gt pt.
o pt p tt bt pt q
kg t pp t g t -
g, t t p pg v t
g tvt pp.
Control Mechanisms
s pt ggt t pt p-
tg t t gt t
t g gt. T bg
b t t tt p vg
p vg t t.
pt t t tg k
gv gt pt. o pt
t ct t t dB
T & c t v pt p
t. T z t t t p
t t t, t
j bt t v
g g pt.
Worst Practice
rp v t t tpt. hv, t t pt.
t, pt g t b tt
gt t . ig t t
tg t pt. it t
g:
u g tt t g t pb
t k g t t
ttt,
u g t t ,
u g b ttv t kg tt
g t b t.
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24 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
T t t t t
tt vt p.
it p gv gt
t t v ) p t pt t t -g b) t t t g
p.
w t t pt, pt
g t p tt tk vtg
t k ttt tt
t gt pt pt gvt
tt t bt t t .
G b k t p k t
p t gt t t p
t tv g t. ep pj-
t t g tg bgpt t b Vt o, i,
g pt i ptt .
Environment
T t pvt p t pt t v-
t bt pt tt p
t p t gt p-
b vt pt tgt t pp
. s pt p, tg
pb tt pb ,
t t t p pb
vt pt. s pt -pt t g:
u ttg pgv tgt t pt t
vt ;
u g tt t v t b
ptt g v-
t v;
u g t pppt t tt t
b t -
t g p;
u g pb t gt
;
u g t pb , pb, t
v t tgt.
o pt t tt g p-
t vt gt pt pt
t ggt g g
. hv,
t pt t t t, at ct, s
VP Gb eggt t PacT, tt -
g g t b t g -
g, t g bg t
t pt pb g. PacT
tt nGo tt tgt pt t, gg tv gv t,
tg kt t vp-
t.28a t kt v
g v, t tb t
g, b p b t.
atg g btt t t g,
t k t f t g g pt gg pp, t ttt
gt t .29
rp t pt t t pt
tt. T t pv, , t p-
b g t g p
tv tg p t
kg, g, g vg t
vt t t t
. o pt ggt tt asm, pt t
, b vt g.
Workplace
wkp bt pt t t tg
tt gt k -
pt t t. T itt lb
ogt (ilo) vt t un u-
v dt h rgt
t bt pt.
opt t t p
t t pppt g. Bt t
q g gt g tg,
pppt vtt pttv qp-
t. o pt tt bt tk p kp, t t
btt, kg t
t t t t wt v.
Kouroussa,
Guinea-Conakry,
woman washing
gold ore
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25The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
T t t
, , t tg -
t pt t -
g, t vpt
k, pt .
Gg V pt ct t t
tg t tg t t
tt rJc t t tv t t -
ptv vpt.
w t t t pt, t pt
pt. T vg t t pt
v b g pt.
Communit
pt ggt tt p b gt
vpt. T pt t t t t -b tp t tt
t t t-b t. wtt
tt t t ptp, t b pb t
b t t tbt .
sv k t t b
tp tt t g p tt
pt jt t t:
u g tt g bg
tt bt bg pt t t
, p, t -
t,u pt g pp gt,
u vpt tt t t t -
t,
u g tbt v g
pt,
u g t vpt pt
g t v tt tt v t b t
t t.
o pt t tt t tgb t
pt pt tg pp
t gg t pt
b lo.
a pt t pt g t
t gg t t g
pt. w t t pt
t, t tg t t t t
t. T pt tt t pk bt t gt tt t-
t ft.
Customer
T p pt tt tp-
k t bt pt g t t.
sv gv t:
u t,
u t t t t t t pt p-
tt b t g,
u t pt t pt tt v p t t t pt t t
pv v,
u tt , t pb t -
t t k t bg pb.
T pt ggt tt tp t
b p t t ktg , p-
t t pt t t ttg.
w t t pt t t , bt
pt b t t t p-
tt. Bt pt tg
t t p t qt bt pb
g t j t.
ig g t p t t
t t pt. ept t t
t kg t t qt bt t
g gt t t pt t
pt. o pt tt t g b
g ttt t t k t
ptb. egg pb
pt b pg t pv v
t v t t b , t
kgg tbtg t v gt
tgt t v , pt-
b. T ggt t g t tpk b bt t ptg b tg
tt pvg t t v pt
t .. t .
Responsible
artisanal
gold mine,
Cuatro Horas,
Arequipa, Peru
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26 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
B ct t t tv t t
b tg t pp . B
p tg t ppt irma,
ct vtv ptp t Gk t
g tt b, t k ptv
pt bg pp pt. ept
t t t tt bt b kg
gg t pp , t ct, pt,
gg b-b g t t t.
ittg, t t b t, b
bgg t g pt p, , B-, ct, Pgt V c & ap,
gt ndG. T p tt b gp
pb t p t b t
vt nGo ( ww), t -
gg t b. T tt t
v p pt pbt
pt p gt t
. hv, t -k b
kg t t , tg tt z
p tt t t t.
General lack o transparenc
T b t t pv t
t tt g k tp.
T qt bg k t t p
t t. i p gg
t tt, t v p-p-
p t t q . T
t pg t b pb -
pv ptg t pt pbt.
B bt p -
t, t t tt t b
p pt t, v-
t t. B tpt bt
t ppt KPcs t rJc bp,
bt p b t pt uvg et-
e, bt ttv q tgtg
t jt k tp.
Not sstematicall managed
T p f vt bt t p
v pb t pt tt
vt t t -
pv tgt t t b.
T p-f tt b p t pbt t t p-
t t p f.
ass
To assess the ethical perormance o theten luur jeweller brands, brand data wascompared with the leading practice datarom eperts to determine the challengesand opportunities or the sector.
T t t :
u vg v pt pbt
ggt v
u g k tp
u t tt g
u p tbt
u p vpt
u kg t t pptt
u t ttt t tp
Varing levels o engagement and drivers
a gt t t b b rJc, t
jt t j b t t
pt pbt v
tt t k t. hv, tt t tt vt p-
p t pb b t j
t. t b Bt G d,
2010 t b bt t t
t t vt -
, t , t t tg tt
tt pb. s t t t t t
b v tt t pb
b pt. T b c cp
vt ,
p tg t rJc bp, bt ,
bt t t t t -
ttg t ptg rJc t.
s t h wt Bg
b . Bt p ft
vt b bt b t
pp t p t ptt g-
t pp t k .
Pgt V c & ap v t -
t bt t pp t pt pbt,
tg pt t rt Gp, p t
gp v vb pb. wtt btt t-
p, t t t g p tg
t t b tgt p. Jhg, v, t t kg ptv
vt .
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27The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
i gt t qt t -
pt tt b -2011 t
t bp t rJc, tt ttv bg btt
gt vt ,
t t t. w p p-
b , t t
tt b b tg ptv pt
t g. T tt b
t pt uvg et e.
No ocus on traceabilit
n t b t tv tt-
t tbt, t t t
t b t pt.
i k ttt g t
t t gt bt t
t , t pp
g b b tb? i
t t gt, t pp-
tt t gg vt
t g t b pb.
hv, tg ttv t tb-
t, g KPcs rJc.
T g p gg
t t t gt
t t, k t,
b B. i t, tt
vp g b t g-
gp g b , t t-
bt b ptt t b ptv pt
g j t .
No ocus on social development
itv t t pt g
t b t tt ptv pt
vpt t k pp-tt. G ttt t bt
pt t t g, bt p
ttv ptg vpt tg
g . o ct, tg t ptp
t et, bt ptv tbt t
vpt. n t b t tt t pt t pb pt
pbt p, t t
vpt tvt t pb t.
m ct vt gtv
, t t b t pt
t j t t bt t t
t t, t g-
g t t t bt t t t
t t. i v, t t
g t t. ct
g t t tg t
. it, t pt, t pt - t g t, pt
t ft , t b bt. a
, tvt k g t
tt tgt tp p
tt bt t t
g t, t t.
Seeking saet not opportunit
m b pg rJc t pv
k t t ppt t ,
t vt tt pt
pbt. T rJc pt g
t g pt g t -
gg k t t tg pptt. ng
t pvt b g t
tbt t tbt t b tt
t ft g pt, t jt t
g p. a Ptk s t,
rJc t p
pt pp. m ptt, t pv
btt v p tbt t
p p tt, t t pp-
tt t b tbtg t vpt.
Limited attention to relationships
a b ptptg ttv rJc
ndG, t pp tt t kg t
k tgt t g. hv, tt
p. nt rJc t Kb
P tt q p t k
t p g t gt. T t
ttv t ppt t bg tp,
vt t pv t pt g
, tgt t v . T pt
p t tbt t b -
tp t v , t -vtv pp t g t,
b vt tb t.
Women washing
gold ore,
Kangaba, Mali
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28 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
For brands that take the lead on socialand environmental issues, the can adopta new mindset that inspires corporateand business strateg. Rather than a riskmanagement approach, which interpretscorporate responsibilit as a restrictivebusiness activit, b considering thebroader interests o societ, brandscan challenge eisting perceptionsabout their businesses, opening upprospects and business approaches thatpreviousl did not eist. The changingperceptions o what responsibleenterprise entails also mean that withouta ocus on opportunities, brands thatdo not take the lead on social and
environmental issues could be perceivedas irresponsible, potentiall acting tothe detriment o commercial interest.The recommendations below will oersome guidance in acilitating a transitionrom a risk management to opportunitiesapproach or luur jeweller brands.
General Corporate Responsibilit Issues
Better Implementation o
Corporate ResponsibilitT tt t t b pt
pbt t t j t
pt, t t pv tgt.
T pp vt
pv tgt , b t
v tg t tv tp csr
t t bt. T t B 1.
Better Transparenc
Tp k t .
ct t tp b tkg,
tp t b gg.Tk t, nk, pb t
t pp t.30Tp tt
tt tp tg t pt-
t. it v g tt ptt,
b t bt t t t
g t b. w tt
t bg tt, t gv-
tt ft t tt t g,t g-t pt qtb. a ,
tp tt p pt
t t tt t v b-
t t tk .
Btt tp b v .
aptg pppt ptg k
t Gb rptg ittv g ttg
pt. T iso 26000 t
t t p b g
pt pbt t Gri st
sppt mg mt pv g-
p .31
B pv tp, t t vt
. B g v t v t -
t bt t pt. s itt -
t vtb, wkk tt, b
g Pr tt g v vt
k bg p t g g.
U
ececc
u ut v & gt
vu a t pt
u d v ggt
u c k tk
u Pt
u at pbt
u st tgt & pvt
u ct vt vt
u et g ()tv
u T p t t k pb
tt
u mt, pt
u evt, v, pt
s B d (), Healing
Capitalism, G Pbg, tg 2012
BOx 1. TWELVE STEPS TO INTEGRATECSR IN ORGANISATIONS
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29The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
a, t t t, t pt t
t b t g g
t, bt t tv, g t p
t pt gt b-bk tt bg vp t pt. T
ptt tp b
b k t t pp bt t
tt t ttt g t
tp tt t b t t pp .
s p Ptg v
vp vtv tp t. P-
tg vp t tpt c,
p t pt t pt tgt
t pp .32s tp pv t t t t bk
b tt.
Specic Areas o Risk Management
a pt g tt t pb g
gt p t k t -
ttg pb b pt. T g
t t tt b
tk t tt t tt t vg
pt pbt t t, t pt-
pb g.
Seek Traceabilit o Gemstonesand Precious Metals to Mines
B tt t k t t t-
t t pb. wtt k-
g t g, t b t t
t t . B
t b kg t t tbt g-
t p t. T ggt t
pt t pt t-tk
ttv tbt. B p
b kg t ptpt t vpt
ttv.
atg rJc t vpg vt
c ct tt, bb t k pt-t bt t-
bt, t t gv
tt t t pt t pt t-
tk ttv. a b T
rpb J c, b -
g rJc t pg t .
hv, t ttv tt t t t
t. o p t Jt
t, t pt
qt b tt gt pp t-
p, vt bt pt
t, ppt t j-t ttv. T b b g t
t bt g g,
t t t gt g ttg t
pt v . t,
tg t tb, t t
t t v gt tt -tbt t t pt, tg k
t t g t t.33a t J-t t k t ppt ttv
vpg t, b t t
t bt t pt vp-
t pjt. T t pptt
, J ct, p t
t pt t-pt ttv.34
B ppt gt tt
t d k at, bg us t -
p t t t st eg
c (sec) t g tt tg p.
Contetualise the Statementwe support the Kimberle Process
B tptg tt t ppt t Kb
P t g . T q
b t p t t
ptptg t Kb P. B ttg
ppt t Kb P, b
t ttg tt t b t . B t
tt tt ttt t pv gt
tp. T t g t t-
ppt t.
Encourage the Strengtheningo the Kimberle Process
B tt gt tt t t
t g b tgtg t
p tt KPcs. T t, b
k tt t t c KPcs t
t g t t p
tg g:
u pg t t ft t
gt b;u g pt tt KPcs;
u g tb -
pt t-pt tg;
u tbg jt t t vt-
g t KPcs;
u pvg tp, pt g t
ptptg t pt;
u pvg t ttt pbt ptpt-
g t t b ptg;
u tg KPcs t t p
g; t vp-
t ttt t t tt
b t;u g t t t vt
t t KPcs.35
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30 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
Go Beond KPCS
w KPcs q t, t tt
pt t pt t, t vt Zb-
b k g t ttv
t t. T t tt b t
t ppt p
tt tt t g pt.
T t-t t b t k t
pp tt tbt t t-
. T tt g, v, b t vp
b pt t-pt -
tbt bv.
Third-part Assurance orthe Sstem o Warranties
a t rJc c ct tt t b
vt t b, t st wt
g t t ft tg
t pp t b tgt. a t
p-f , t t t g
k ft p
t tt t t -gt
t t t t .
B p t b tg t
wdc t t pt
sw.
The Responsible Jeweller CouncilB g t pg t
rJc tt t c Pt g b -
t g p. B p
gg rJc t pt t g t
c Pt gg:
u ptg tttv tt
t vt t t
bt ;
u tbg t t
t g pt;
u pbtg vt ttt
t;u tbg t g ft
z;
u g vg tg pt
p;
u pbtg b tg p g
p b;
u ptg t ut nt dt
ig rgt pp. w
t t pp t t bt
g pp t tt, t
tt p t pt g
gt b b vg tt;36
u ptg t pt tbt.
B p b gg rJc t:
u tbt pt bp t.
u pt gt tt tt t-bt qt t vt t-tt .
i rJc g t tt tt t b
b p tt t p-
t gv t-tk t, t
b p t t pp tt t
q t t b t t b pb-
t t b t pt.
u ppt t d k at.
u b t t gv tt t
p tp ptt
v t gp, gt tt
pt - , rJc
b t vt t p-ttv. T bt t ttv p
gv tt tt pt -
t tt t g, t jt t t.
u p t t t t t c P-
t. a tt t, rJc
KPcs g Zbb
t t pp , pp t t b
t t t gt t.37
u pbt t g tt -
b. rJc ttv tg t tb
pb b pt t j-
t t ttv g .
i rJc b tt bgg pp t bb t rJc t b t t,
t pbt b
bt b kt tv -
pb t t, t tt t
t b . egg b
g t t ptt, bt -
ttv t b t jt b-t-
b t tt tv t-tt .
a , b tt k t
tt pt pb b t-
t p p t
tt p t pt
rJc bp. T t pvtrJc qg t b, bt t
t t tt,
t v t bv.
Participate in the Initiative orResponsible Mining Assurance
w irma t t p vpg t t-
, t t pt t-pt t-tk-
ttv ppt b v t tt
vt, gt t
g pt. B t ttv tgt p
g pt pp t p t
rJc tt, t ttv -
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31The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
tv t t -t-g pt.
ut t tt t tt pt, irma
pt btt t v-
t p p p tt pt t j pp . T tg
p t t tv,
v, t t v agG at
tv vt G.
Become a Signator o theNo Dirt Gold Campaign
B bg ndG gt, b -
g pb g g pt tt
pt gt t vt. B
pptg t pg, b ttg
t g gt, t, pvg t
ptt g. a t ndG pg k-g t irma tg t pt t pt
tt t g t, b
g ndG G r pt t t-
t t, vg gt tbt t t
g t. a rJc tt pt
v t G r, b tt
p b gg b t t .
Seek and Create Opportunities toUse Materials to Sociall Innovate
T j Pt c bg, t t j t, v
tt j v pt t t
gt bt. Bb, bg
t t 1893 t t h -
bg t:
The sole aim o this production was to pro-
vide work or hundreds o apprentices.38
i v gg gb qt t
gt pt v, vpt
t t bt tt b
-pppt Bb ttpb b .
Support the Diamond Development Initiative
T i s bt tt v-
pt ptt.
Eorts at ethical sourcing are very impor-
tant, but they can be counterproductive. For
example some jewellers opt or Canadian
diamonds because these are demonstrably
confict-ree. This is a short-term answer to
a long-term problem and is not a solution. Itbasically demonizes Arican diamonds and
makes it harder or those at the bottom end
o the pipeline to make a living. Aricas 1.3
million artisanal diamond diggers produce
about 15% o the worlds gem diamonds andearn, on average, about a dollar a day. The
RJC standards are a step in the right direc-
tion, but they dont deal with producers at
this level. The Diamond Development Initia-
tive (DDI) is working at this level, and is get-
ting industry support, but meaningul change
will take time. DDI needs more support.39
Bu Fairtrade Fairmined Gold
t g
b 2011. t g -
t gt p tt t k
t vpt g g -g. sk t b g t t
g pt b pp t
t g. dt t t
t t t g t k tk-
, g t, vt, , bt
. d t t ptt q-
t bt t ptg g g
t t t t, bt
t ttg k t-
g k nGo jt.
Responsibleartisanal goldmine, SantaFilomena,Ayacucho, Peru
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32 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
Look or Partnerships to AddressHuman Rights Abuses
Ptp t gt b
tt b tt t b
tt t pbt. o p
G. Ggt w rtt
tt tt G b v v p
t qt t hg h b pt
B. a G t gt t gt
gt , pp b
G t t t t p-
ppt pt . hv, agt 16,
2006, G B m Pt
(BmP) g t tt g pp
g t pt b, g
pt gt g p, T nt
G (TnG), t v gt t pt tgt v.40 s pt t
vtgt b t G gvt
t g t g, tv G
bg pv t pt t t vg.41
B kg t g-g b G-
p t BmP t gv bk t gt
tv G, ttg b
t t g b g
g gt. s, t G
tt g t vb t t g, tb gvt g ,
t vb tt v bt
t ppt b .
Look or Beneciation Opportunities
Bt b t ppt v
v t ptt, t
t t, t bt t.
a p t t t nb
b d cpt, d
Tg cp (dTc) gt , t
90% t nb t g-t t .42
s pptt t gt
t g v pt t -
kt. a t gb ttv -
g gt, t 75% t 90% gt g t
g vpg t, t t
p b t gg, pt t pt
t bt.
o pjt rb , b
t t vg Tz p
d s, t Tz pt. at
p t Tz w m a-
t k Tawoma. it t v
pjt t t t g g-
t gt, tt, pp, g
t t. it v tpt t t vt, t t g
gt. wt v 350 b, t g t -
t pvt. it kg ppt t vp
p t, v
t t pt, ktg
t, t t pt.43Bkg t t t kg t p pjt
Tawoma pv vpt p-
ptt t.
Organisational Qualities
Promote a Progressive Corporate CultureT Zbb ptpt KPcs
v k t t j
t. i t vt tt KPcs t vv,
t b t t. s t
pt vt KPcs tt b
t b ptb t q bt
t btt t pt.
wt t v ftg
vt , b t
t g t g t t -
gt. B kg t t t v pt t v t t, vt
g, b tt tt t
pgv tg p tt ft t
. T t t t, b
k t g p qt
t g:
atv: pg t b gt t-
b vpt tt vv b.
ct: g bt t ptv gtv
pt t p b tvt,
pt t, bgtpt bt t .
Greenland ruby
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33The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
s-: kg p pbt tt b
t pb.
Ttv: kg tp pptt ttpt bt t pg.
ctv: g t t tt pt
tv t-k vt pp
iqg: kg g pptt b vt-
g t t t pt v t t
vpt , pt
t, bg t
-vt.46
s t t p tv b-
.
Improve Sales Sta Integrit
T l ittt v t t tt
t t tt 32% f-
t t us t t t
ttt t .
apt t t t b t tg
tg t pv v, t g
ttt t t t t
vt k t t pt
gt. a b v -
bt tp, pp
t btt t t pt bbg b t t t t pt. T p
t l ittt v tt
61% t us tk tt bg
g g pb pg, 47%
g v t b pt-
t t v jt t pt tt
g g t pt.45 i gt
t gg v, b t -
t vb vt pg
pt ptv ttt t t b.
a t, pp t gt
t pt t gg t -kt b b t t t t v
- t gg t v.
Embod Jeweller Smbolismin Business Practice
T j t b
t v t b b. a
j t t t pt b
v, t v t j t
t b pt v pt b
pt. i m 2010 BBc r tv, G
h, Vtg P sttg it-t mgt t l B s
t g tk b
ttg, ggt tt t j g
t k t tg, t b
t tt gt gt. w ggt tt p
pv ppt vpg t tv p-
t t t, t pt t-
t, tt tt t v t
b t t t kp.46a , b k tv, t vg
p t pt ? o p
tt t pt B-b j J
h. T t ttt v t
v pp.47
Promote a Compassionate Business
CultureLook or Reparation OpportunitiesT tt t t pp
t s l g t g
tt g. T v t pp
v b v g g t
ut nt rg ag (unhcr), t
k t k t t vt.48
iptv t t t t vt,
b tt t g t
pp tt t pt q
t , tb k t
t t.49 B ptg t gt tt ppt t vt, b tt t p tg p-
t. o gt t Gb at
t (Ga) b t-b
t tt pt t t ttg
pg p pt
t K dtt.50
Use More Responsible Practices toInspire New Approaches to Business
Rethink Authenticit
Gt qt ttt k
g- j, t j b
v t t k t k bt tbt
ttt. nt tbt gt
b tgt bt t gt gt
q, t, tintegrity o the
jewellery piece itsel.
Rethink Design and Meaning
rpb j t ptt t p
j g. r t gtv
ggt tt bg t p
t t.51
a b vt ,
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34 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
t t pptt b t g j
p tt t pb g pt
t t bt g.
i b t t t t pb
pt t pt t t g, g p
pv t b b t g
k g. a b t
t b ppt t . i t
ct, p b tp t tt
pt t gvt tg g
t g t et h.
T v g t j t t pt-
t t b t t t kt t
t pptt b t ft t g
tp b t p t p.
t bt gt pbt, t
t ptt t t gt t
pv j b g. T
ft ww dp l rpt 2007.
50 years hence, what a luxury rm does to-
day will be part o its heritage, and another
company that is created today will also
have a heritage. A companys heritage rom
the 19th or 20th centuries will not stay the
same, but will be interpreted on the basis
o contemporary values and the companys
activities during the 21stcentury. Luxury
brands need to see heritage as an evolving
phenomenon, and work at contemporary
heritage creation, by shaping the uture
proactively.52
Rethink Cratsmanship
T t t bv pt tt tp
p. ig g p t qp-
t t g v
pk k t vk t pt t-
t . hv, t pt qt
g tpp tt t pt
t b t bjt k t. e-
gg g t pt g t
t g t t g p
t t g, bt p t -
pt g tpp, pt-t g t t vt tp.
Decommoditise Jeweller
a tt q t t
t t t gt qt tt t t
gt t t. w t qt -
pt gt ptt pt t v,
t tp g. p,
t f tg t t
t 19t t, bt tt t tt Q
Vt j v v.
a k tt t tt t
qttv tt, tg
t v t tt p t qt, t
vt. o t v -
t t pt g tp.
p, t kg f 3-t
t t g p t
t t t p t ttg
t ggt tt. s -
qt t t t g p,
t, g vt t. hv, t
bt t p tt b t g
tp, t t t gt t p t b g, t p
Future design inspiration?
Start Creating a New Heritage
B t t j
t t. cpt pbt t
jt bt pt bv. B ftg t
b k t j t t
gt, j g tt t
v b tt k t tgt pbpt pt vvg tg. B t
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35The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
b tt b t t tv g,
g v v b t t
gt qt.
at t q t b t
t qt gt t t t
gg with t gt, tv ttg
t b t pt t t t p-
qt t.
Rethink Suppl Chains
wkg t pg
ptt t t t p-
b g. hv, t b v t
bg p t t t pg
k t pt t gg b
. b tt v t k bgp, t pptt t gg b
t g b tg t t g
pg t b tt t v t
bg p. s ttg b
t t p gt, tgt-
tp, btt t v
t pp .53
Set Long-term Objectives
st g-t bjtv tt g t p
t btt pt. dg p
t p pg tt tpb ptg pb t b gg bt
vg t g. lg-t bjtv
t bg t bt t p t
b pt. sg 100% t
g t 10 b
bjtv.
t, ttg g k pt g
b pbt gt pt -
t lt 2007 v, T Gb
stp cg.54T pbt t -pt pbt tgt v t t t
t pvt t t p- g, ftg t
t t t p,
t t pt t.
Align with New Initiatives
sppt ttv t t tt b
t pp t vp p-
p pt. arm t p
b b ppt asm -
t. at ttv t t-
g tg J at. B
p b pptg t pjt t pt
p, bg t tgt ttg p.55
Use More Responsible Practices to In-spire New Approaches or the Industr
Rethink ValueT t t vg gt b
t c: t, t, t. T v
gt b t pp tt t
t. i t , t pt
t rppt d rpt.
a p t t pt t
v kt, p k t t pt
pt t tgg t tt tt
gt v. T pp pt t
g v t v. a
tt q t t tt
t gt vt
b p, t v, t .
hv, t v t tt t
tt bt t,
gt qt , t t pg t-
t t pb pt t
t t. B g t c, ,
t t pg t, gt b
g vt .
a 5 t f vb t
1 t, t 5 g
b vb t 1 . T
t t t gt b
bt t b.
w t b t, t tt t
b tgt t t t pg
. T vtg t pp tt
t b g- g
pvg tt -tbt pptt.
B p b vpg
t t bt pg tt
tt b vt .
Visionar Re-distribution
T g ttg t v t -
tgb b t b pppt pp-
b bjt t kt . hv-
, t bjtv b v tt k t
bt t, t t t v t
vg t g b .
t, ptg t p
p q t b vt
t vpt pjt, g
tg KPcs, t t t v -
t t t t ptt bg vb.
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36 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
Peter Karl Faberg, renown or the equi-site Faberg eggs, once said,
I have little interest in an expensiveobject i its price is only in the abun-dance o diamonds and pearls.56
His words have as much meaning toda asthe did when he was alive.
Tg t t t tp, t j-
t tg t t t bjt qt t. e-
, t, b tt tg
g tvt.
hv, t pp vvg -
gg: tt g b jt t
g t bjt ft p
. a pp b
t t b t j, t t t
t b v t ,
ft z pv t.
l j b pt t -f t j t t t p, p-
tg ptt. yt t t j
b t pt, t t pt
ct B, t pp tt t v
b t v ttg pb
b pt, pt g t p-
b g. a p tbt tt
b t tv pb t
t k t gt p t-
. it t p tt
t k t pt pbt,
tp, qt.
i t t t g pt pt
pbt tt q pvt, t tt
j b v v t v
t pt pbt . mt v gt
t tg k gt p
tt t vg pt pbt t
t pptt. wt pp pt
t - g tt pt t
j pp , t p b tk t vt.
it qtb t t t g-
tgt pt pbt pt
t ttg. cpt pbt jt tt, t
bt pt t p. t t
pv g t tt pt
b pp , b p
pg t t t p g
ttpt t bk t pvt .
T t , b t b t p-
t pbt t tt ppttb t v k gt pp-
tv t tt k t tbt tg t
. T pt tt gt p-
t pbt p gt qt,
p pp t b k
t pptt t t t tbt
t tb vpt. ag t t pt
tv t pt, j b
b t g t p
uptg t et.
Ccus
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37The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
The results rom the research or eachbrand are detailed below in alphabeticalorder according to brand name.
Boucheron
B b t t t
tt j t t j t b t t P V P.57
cbtg t 150t v 2008, B
pt t t ptg t
j t. it v 50 btq -
db 2010. B pt
t G Gp, b pb t
Pt-Ptp-rt (PPr).58 PPr, t,
jt- b t at Gp,
40% .59
cpt pbt t B tgt
t t b p t pt p. T
PPr bt :
T Gp- csr t t 2007
gt b g t cpt
s rpbt t, t t
PPr cpt t w dgt
rgt t, t t . T csr dt
pt t t t Gp c ceo
pt t etv ctt. it
tk t g t Gp pt
pbt p, tg t sb t
pt t k ttg pt, g -
p t t t g bgt, tptg
ppg t Gp t bgt tt
b t, ttg p Gp- pj-
t. T csr dptt k t Gp
h r p-t csr .
e t v sb h csr
stb dvpt pb pt-
g t Gp csr p t sb,
tgtg p t p -
tt t t pt , t
v k ttg pt. i 2009, 21 p
kg t csr t Gp
v sb, t t t gt pp
p t PPr Gp v. ct sb
v csr ctt p p-
ttv t p ptt
tt t t csr
stb dvpt
dptt. PPr t
sb v
t p t j t-
k gb tb-
t t t k
v-
t ptg.60
wt t gt
tt, tt
t m. Bk
ckk, G t
csr, t ptpt t t.
T PPr bt t pv eiris -
t tt t pt p p vg
t t t pb b
pt, t vg v qt. T -
t vt, bb p-
t, t, gt, pp t,tk ggt, q pptt, t
t, t t. hv,
t t pb t t t p-
t t t b v t
t t B bt.61
T bt t B p-
tp pjt: t ptp t cq s.
T t bt t t o dp
t, t pv pv
t t t kg t.62
ot , , t tt B kg vt . it
pp t jt ptp bt ttg. T
ft V v w t tt
b k t , bt t-
t tg t t, ppt
b v t t.
T pt B vv-
t g g . T t
gt t ndG G r. o pt
k tt B pp arm bt
t g. J hg p tt
tg B rJc bp t
t t, [t tk] tp t b
tg t t.
a: t B
Bc
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38 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
cg t pt p n dt G
pt m 2010 ggt tt
B pt t pp
t pt t G r t tp gg.63
B ptpt t ittv
rpb mg a (irma) t p
t g b t j
2009 btg t ttv.64 n t b
ptpt, tg B p
pt. B tt t irma,
vpg pt t-tk
t pt tt pb g
pt, ggt ttg pp t
pb b.
T ft b -t g ttg
t t pt v b t
pt t t G Gp,
B b, q t gb
tbt t t kg-
t, sa 8000, b 2015.65
a b rJc, B b q
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BOx 2. ExAMPLES OF RJCCRITERIA FOR CERTIFICATION
u apt pb p tt
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rgt;
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t;
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t, t t gt;
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39The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
ggt Bt ptpt t stbt J t Jg tt
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cpt s rpbt pt
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40 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
vgt g Bg -
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In selecting a supplier, as in establish-
ing the terms and conditions or making
purchases o goods and services or the
Group, Recipients must endeavour to ob-
tain the greatest competitive advantage or
the Group itsel, selecting the supplier that
is capable o supplying goods and services
o the quality required under the most a-
vourable terms and conditions.81
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:
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tt t, t vt
gt p B 2 (pg 38).
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41The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
g t t p t t t
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taken steps to trace and control their sup-
ply chains and requiring suppliers to do the
same. This includes eorts at ull traceability
to mines that have not been involved in
confict and/or employ best practice con-
ventional mining techniques.
pt ct v -
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42 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
t tg, Ptk s tt tt
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et h, g g p-
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vpt
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t ppt La Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie
g t v b t t.
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t pp.95
i P, ct gt v 700 p-
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7% 2008. itt, ct t-
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t tt t g vg
50%. T P pp -
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43The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
eu bg, t b t t
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p pt pbt;u t tg pt pbt;
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pb b pt t rJc
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tt Tg ctt. Bg b
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B 2 (pg 38).
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b tv tt t
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hv, t t p v vbt
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44 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
t ppt. T :
u t et J aids t;
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Gra Diamonds
G d 100% b l G,t Kg d t g
The Most Fabulous Jewels in the World.108 it
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45The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
Kg, pt tt t t pt
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t Ptg t c
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46 Uplifting the earth|The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands
tg, g pt tbt, ttt pb-
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h wt b rJc, gg t -
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gt p B 2 (pg 38). Bt t t
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47The eThical Perormance o luxury Jewellery Brands|Uplifting the earth
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Though environmental protection and the
green attitude are not at the core o the
companys business, we have decided to
take action to reduce our impact on the
environment by ensuring that we use raw
materials that have been extracted and
processed according to the strictest stan-dards and by implementing strong company
ethics.125
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BOx 3. THE RICHEMONTAPPROACH TO CORPORATE
SOCIAL RESPONSIBILITy
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