So you want to seelions in the wild? What it’s like... and why they’re fi ghting for survival
HOW TO CHOOSE A LODGE | SEA & SAFARI IN SA
EXPLORE TULI MAJETE SOUTH NAMIBIASELF-DRIVE KENYA
SAFARIPLANNER
Inside
BOTSWANA
PHO
TOS
COU
RTES
Y O
F: K
ER &
DO
WN
EY, U
NCH
ARTE
D A
FRIC
A AN
D N
ORT
HW
INDS
PH
OTO
GRA
PHY
Planning a perfect wedding? Rely on a perfect honeymoon...
Botswana delivering intimate luxury safari experiences as standard
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
A vast expanse stretches before you. You are enthralled by the beauty of the savannah, which is revealed in every single conceivable shade of brown and green. A silhouette of thousands of gnus, antelope and zebras migrating can be seen in the blazing sun. But your attention is drawn in an instant to a young cheetah that is carefully stalking a gazelle. It suddenly sets off in pursuit of its prey at an incredible speed. You’ve never been as close as this to the action, thanks to the EL 32 binoculars. SWAROVISION technology allows you to enjoy this unforgettable encounter with wildlife displayed in razor-sharp, vivid and lifelike images. With SWAROVSKI OPTIK the world belongs to those who can see beauty.
EL 32UP CLOSE ON YOUR ADVENTURE
SEE THE UNSEENWWW.SWAROVSKIOPTIK.COM
YOU CAN FIND OUR PRODUCTS AT EXCLUSIVE SPECIALIST RETAILERS AND ONLINE AT WWW.SWAROVSKIOPTIK.COM
Find your nearest SWAROVSKI OPTIK dealer:
MERCHANT CITY CAMERAS · 7-11 Parnie Street, GLASGOW, G1 5RJ · VIKING OPTICAL · 101 Rose Street, EDINBURGH, EH2 3DT · BASS & BLIGH · 6 Beaulah Street, HARROGATE, HG1 1QQ · FOCUS OPTICS · Church Lane, Corley, COVENTRY, CV7 8BA · LAMBERTS OF LANCASTER · 5 Rosemary Lane, LANCASTER, LA1 1NR · LONDON CAMERA EXCHANGE · 98 The Strand, LONDON, WC2R 0EE · 10 High Street, SOUTHAMPTON, SO14 2DH · 8-9 Tunsgate, Guildford, SURREY, GU1 3QT · SELFRIDGES, PHOTOGRAPHIC DEPT · 400 Oxford Street, LONDON, W1A 1AB · CLIFTON CAMERAS · 28 Parsonage Street, Dursley, GLOUCESTERSHIRE, GL11 4AA · HARRISON CAMERAS ·
YORKSHIRE, S2 4LR · CONN CAMERAS · 54 Clarenden Street, DUBLIN, Ireland
FREE Cleaning Set Worth £33.00 when you purchase SWAROVSKI OPTIK
binoculars from an authorised stockist.
Send this coupon to SWAROVSKI OPTIK UK (Perrywood Business Park, Salfords, Surrey RH1 5JQ)
together with a copy of the sales receipt and the registration card to claim your free gift.
Offer valid for purchases from 1st June 2013 to 31st January 2014 (TA 7766).
BY APPOINTMENT TOHER MAJESTY QUEEN ELIZABETH II
SWAROVSKI OPTIKSUPPLIER OF BINOCULARS
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Karibu!
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 5
This edition published 30 December 2013ISSN 2046-133X
TRAVEL AFRICA magazine is published by Gecko Publishing Ltd.The Dovecote, Little BaldonOxford OX44 9PU, United KingdomTel: +44 (0)1844 278883Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893
@TravelAfricamag www.facebook.com/TA.magazines
www.travelafricamag.comwww.ta-emags.comwww.safariplanner.co.ukwww.geckomags.com
Editor / Publisher Craig [email protected]
Managing Director Iain Wallace
Business Development Manager Sally [email protected]
Sales Manager Dave [email protected]
Publications Manager Phil [email protected]
Customer Services Sherry [email protected]
Designers Mark Hartley and Lisa Duke
Sub-Editor Emma Gregg
Accounts Amanda Gaydon, Tracy Green and Jodie Pratt [email protected]
Dedication For Dad. For your inspiration, support and many questions. Fly free. Keep smiling.
SubscriptionsTravel Africa can be supplied:
as a traditional printed magazine as a digital fl ipbook from www.zinio.com as a digital fl ipbook and text format for
iPad and iPhone via the iTunes App Store.For full details refer to page [email protected]
ContributorsColin Bell, Ashwin Bhardwaj, Jackson Biko, Philip Briggs, David Bristow, Gemma Catlin, Lou Coetzer, Stephen Cunliffe, Aaron Gekoski, Emma Gregg, Anthony Ham, Carrie Hampton, Brian Jackman, Tabbi Mittins, Mark Stratton, Ann and Steve Toon and Mike Unwin
Editorial enquiriesWe accept no responsibility for unsolicited proposals and submissions. Please make all editorial-related enquiries by email to [email protected]
Copyright 2014 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form or stored on a retrieval system without the prior permission of the publisher. While every effort is made to ensure that the contents of Travel Africa are accurate at the time of going to press, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors that may appear, or for any consequence of using the information contained herein.
On the cover Tools of the trade. © Heinrich van den Bergh / HPH Photography
Footnote With our focus this issue on the state of the lion (p70), a lion paw print appears at the end of every feature article.
t the start of a year, many of us tend
to refl ect on changes we may wish
to make in our lives, or consider the
things we would like to improve. I view it as
evolution – the ongoing journey through life.
There have been changes here at Travel
Africa, and these will gather pace as we move
into 2014. Towards the end of last year Matt
Phillips left us after six years at the editorial
helm. Matt was a reliable and dedicated
editor who has played a valued role in the
life of the magazine, driven by his shared
passion for Africa. We are grateful for his
commitment, and hope that his new adventures prove exciting and rewarding.
There are always many more stories we want to share with you as we continue our
exploration of the world’s most exciting continent. So, over the coming months we will
be giving thought to changes we could make to Travel Africa to enable us to get more
stories and images out to you.
We would appreciate your honest evaluation of what you like about the magazine,
and what you don’t. We’d love to know what you would like to read about and how you
would like to receive this material. For more on this, see page 43.
Africa itself has evolved at a rapid pace since we launched Travel Africa in 1997, and
this momentum will clearly continue. So much of this has been very positive, and we
look forward to sharing new adventures with you. However, such rapid development
exposes frailties, emphasizing the importance of tourism as a cornerstone of economic
and environmental balance across the continent.
Africa’s natural heritage is under greater threat now than ever. We explore the state
of the lion population from page 70, but this is just one of a great many species in peril.
Tourism is one of the most important tools in the conservation battle: the more people
who go on safari, the more reason there is to protect these assets and the harder it is for
poachers to infi ltrate.
We will therefore liaise more closely with conservation groups, and to this end are
very excited to have established a constructive working relationship with the African
Wildlife Foundation.
The decisions you make on where to travel and where to stay are even more impactful
now than they were a decade ago. So we’ve explored this in some detail from page 28.
We hope this issue inspires you to plan your next safari. A trip will of course be a
real high point in your year, but it could also have an enduring impact on the people and
wildlife in the region in which you travel. Everybody wins.
Safari njema!
Craig RixEditorA
Changing times
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 7
28 Accommodation Spoilt for choice
Are you confused about where to stay? Luxurious lodge? Romantic camp? Remote? Quirky? The options are endless... Emma Gregg provides a few pointers.
48 Malawi Majete National Park
From poachers’ playground to thriving game reserve: Aaron Gekoski and Gemma Catlin discover a remarkable conservation success story in action.
54 History A journey through Africanhistory in just 20 stops
Phillip Briggs selects 20 sites that, in his opinion, provide a thorough overview of Africa’s oft-neglected past, as well as adding an exciting extra dimension to a more conventional safari or beach holiday.
64 BotswanaLand of dust and giants
Tabby Mittins and Villiers Steyn step into the tracks of elephants to fi nd out what the beguiling Tuli Wilderness has to share.
70 ConservationSo you want to see a lion, do you?
Of all the big cats, the lion is the one most frequently encountered on safari. Yet, these lords of the land are, tragically, in decline. Anthony Ham investigates.
86 Kenya The road less travelled Kenya is not renowned as a self-drive
destination. But this doesn’t deter Steve and Ann Toon, who dust down an ageing 4WD and head off on an epic adventure...
92 Namibia Secret stars According to the brochures, none of
Namibia’s tourist hotspots are to be found in the Kalahari region. Keen to prove otherwise Stephen Cunliffe set off on a journey of discovery.
98 Portfolio An intimate African journey Photographer and safari operator Lou
Coetzer captures moments that aff ord a deeper understanding of the continent’s wildlife.
FeaturesTravel Africa Edition 65, Winter 2014
28 How to choose the perfect
place to stay on your safari
INDABA P15- 25News and views about what’s going on in Africa, including: the African Queen sails again; Meet the Smalls, Kenya’s most loyal visitors; African events – the latest must-sees around the continent; the Discover Africa Show; and a conversation with Nile explorer Levision Wood.
Contents
SAFARI P108-115 Reports, reviews and solid advice for your next African trip, including: Essential South Africa – bush and beach safaris; Wildfi le – bizarre ways that animals get around; and Photoschool – anticipating the shot.
Zambia Safari Planner Page 119
KAYA MAWA, COURTESY WILDERNESS SAFARIS
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
8 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe
Lion vs elephant. Desert vs water. These
are two signifi cant battles played out in
what is one of southern Africa’s greatest
protected areas. Spread across 14,651 square
kilometres of Kalahari sand, savannah and
thickly wooded bushland, Zimbabwe’s
largest national park is home to more
mammal species (108 at last count) than any
other park in the world. At the eastern end
of a migratory route linked to Botswana’s
Chobe National Park, the park also receives
tens of thousands of elephants during
the dry season. As the desert heat wins
its war with natural water levels, herds of
all varieties congregate around the long-
established artifi cial pans. The wildlife
viewing at these times can be astounding.
Although 19 species of large herbivore
are present here, including Africa’s ‘big
fi ve’ antelope (eland, roan, sable, greater
kudu and gemsbok), the sheer number of
elephants make them the most abundant of
these in the area. And this has made them
a target for the park’s prides of lions. The
big cats have adapted to the situation and
acquired the skills to take down not just
newborns but also males up to the age of
thirteen. Incredibly, elephants make up a
signifi cant proportion of their diet, even
more so in particularly dry years.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
This is Africa
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 9WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
12 Travel Africa Winter 2014
100 Bizarre AnimalsHave you ever seen a fi sh that walks, a deer with fangs or a cartwheeling spider? Mike Unwin gives us an eye-popping and highly readable celebration of the most extraordinary creatures to share our planet, complete with fascinating information on their behaviour, handy distribution maps and stunning images of each one in all its glory.Hardback. Price includes Post and Packaging.UK £ 12.00 / ROW £ 15.00
Order online at www.travelafricashop.com
If you’re looking to further your knowledge of Africa or fi nd a special gift, explore our range of unusual or exclusive products at www.travelafricashop.com including:
GREAT GIFTSfor the Africa lover!
Call +44 (0)1844 278883 Email [email protected]
Africa’s FinestThis is a game-changing book that celebrates the lodges and camps in Africa that are making a difference: those practising environmentally friendly and sustainable tourism methods while providing world-class safari and nature experiences. With an exhaustive adjudication process implemented by a team of highly experienced personnel, led by industry veterans Colin Bell and David Bristow, Africa’s Finest really does draw attention to the relationship between travel (and the choices
tourists make) and the fragile environment. Africa’s Finest is the ultimate green safari treasure map to this exhilarating continent and a must-read for any
safari enthusiast.Available exclusively in the UK from Travel Africa.
Hardback. Price includes post and packaging.UK £ 75.00 / ROW £ 85.00
NEW AND EXCLUSIVE!
Matopos 2014 This magnifi cent 13-month calendar for 2014 has been produced in support of the Matobo Rhino Initiative Trust, Zimbabwe. Featuring a stunning A4 photograph by Andre F van Rooyen and a poem by renowned local writer and poet John Eppel for each month. Dimensions 21cm tall x 29.5cm wide. Price includes Post & Packaging. UK £ 12.00 / ROW £ 15.00
EXCLUSIVE
NEW
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
a world where nature
and contemporary comfort
blend into one
Perfectmoments Across
bordersAn Oasis of five star
luxury for serious
safari seekers
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
MAR
K ST
RATT
ON
More than 60 years after the movie , starring Katharine
Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart, was shot on location in the
Congo and Uganda, the steamboat used in the fi lming has been
rescued and is now off ering pleasure cruises on the River Nile.
New Zealander Cam McLeay has fully restored the vessel after it was
found some years ago abandoned in Uganda’s Murchison Falls National
Park. Its reconstruction included fi tting a century-old steam engine
imported from the UK.
The restored African Queen recently began running two-hour cruises
from Whitewater Lodge on the Ugandan White Nile, north of Jinja.
African Queen sails again
More on the App
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 15
IndabaNews, views, events and readers’ stories – all with Africa at heart
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
adventurous. We loved the search.”
Lodges and camps are now luxurious
aff airs. Back then it was a shower from a
bucket and lanterns for light.
“But the most signifi cant change is
the mobile phone,” laments Margaret.
“Safaris used to be silent aff airs. Now, the
ringing phones are always making a racket,
disturbing the peace and quiet.”
In the course of their frequent
visits they have developed a strong
bond with the staff (especially those
at Serena). Wherever they go, they get
recognised.
“Joyce Wangui [Serena’s Corporate
Sales Manager] is like our daughter,” says
Margaret. “She always invites us to her
home for dinner each time we are around.”
The closeness of the relationship
they enjoy with Serena was epitomised a
few years ago when they were invited to
the traditional wedding of Reuben Kirui, a
former employee.
“We went down to Mengwet in
Kericho, and were the only mzungus at the
wedding,” recalls Margaret. “Reuben went to
great lengths to ensure our comfort. He even
provided a translator to relay the wedding
proceedings to us.”
With a cheeky smile, Lewis interjects: “I
remember the vows very well. They read that
he would love his bride and his mother-in-
law equally.” The pair guff aw heartily at this.
There have been some dark times
though, such as the post-election violence
in 2007-8: times when their love for the
country was tested.
“[The violence] was a true moment
of sadness,” says Margaret. “We couldn’t
drive down to Kilaguni as planned, but we
came to support the country regardless.
We knew that Kenya and its people were
better than that.”
It’s in this same spirit that Margaret, at
the age of 70, took part in a 400km charity
cycle ride. “I, together with a group of 450
women, cycled from Meru to Lake Victoria,
with the aim of raising money for Faraja
Cancer Support Trust,” she recalls. “It was
gruesome, but we managed it. The event
raised some £52,000.”
Their mutual love for Kenya, the Smalls
say, has managed to keep their marriage
exciting because of the fulfi lment going
there together brings them. “This is home
for the Kidogos,” Lewis smiles. “This will
always be our home.”
It is no surprise that they are already
planning their next visit.
The Smalls call Kenya their second home.
In the Masai Mara – their favourite destination
– they are lovingly referred to as The Kidogos,
meaning ‘small’ in Swahili.
They have walked with Kenya from
the infantile days of tourism right up to the
present day, and have witnessed a dramatic
transformation.
“We are very humbled that we have been
a part of this growth,” says Lewis. Although
they can’t help but look back with jaundiced
eyes to a time when, they muse, the word
‘safari’ had a diff erent ring.
“In those days you would hardly ever
see children under 12 years of age in lodges.
It was simply not allowed,” recalls Margaret,
nostalgically. “During a recent game drive we
happened on a leopard that had just killed a
baby gazelle, and this one child was totally
traumatised. She cried helplessly throughout,
howling, ‘It killed the little Bambi!’”
Game drives have completely changed
over the years, they feel. For one thing, it’s
much easier to see animals now, thanks to the
cooperation between safari operators.
“There were no radio calls in the late
‘80s,” Lewis chuckles. “So we had to drive
around looking for wildlife. This made it quite
Jackson Biko meets Margaret and Lewis Small, aka The Kidogos, perhaps the most loyal of all Kenya’s visitors.
K enya may have recently celebrated
50 years of independence, but this
wasn’t the only jubilee in town. In
November Margaret and Lewis Small marked
their golden wedding anniversary with a trip
that took them to Nairobi, Tsavo, Amboseli
and the Masai Mara. It wasn’t their fi rst trip to
this magical country. Far from it.
The Smalls fi rst set foot in Kenya in
1988. At the end of this maiden visit, while
Lewis stood at Kilaguni Safari Lodge’s
reception settling the bill, Margaret lingered
at the dining room window, drinking in the
expanse of Tsavo West National Park.
Back then, she remembers, ‘the wild’
wasn’t a term that merely implied a place
removed from the city. “I felt that I was in
God’s country,” she recalls, “untouched by
human hand.”
It was at this moment that Margaret
experienced an overwhelming feeling of
attachment to Kenya. “I knew then that I
would keep coming back,” she says.
She was true to her word. She and Lewis
have returned to Kenya every year for the last
25 years, and on 20 of those trips they have
stayed exclusively with Serena Hotels, the
group that now runs Kilaguni.
It’s a Small world
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 17
Journal
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The only way to fl y in Malawi
Online Reservations: www.fl yulendo.com | Email: reservations@fl yulendo.com | Tel: +265111751305 / +2651700444
For more info and bookings go to our website or email us:
www.outofafricaphotography.co.za
+27 82 575 7401 / +27 82 667 0430
Out of Africa Photography
@OA_Photography
18 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Well, it doesn’t get more out-there than
this. In a fi rst for Africa, the Manta Resort
on Pemba has opened an underwater
hotel room.
The brainchild of Swedish artist
Mikael Genberg – who opened his
fi rst such facility in 2000 in a lake near
Stockholm – the room is anchored in the
Blue Hole, some 250 metres off shore. This
circular hole, an anomaly in the coral reef
visible from the main resort, is roughly
50m in diameter, 12m deep and home to
abundant marine life.
Built on three levels, the Underwater
Room comprises a landing deck, at sea
level, with a lounge area and bathroom
facility, and a roof deck for sun worshippers
and star gazers alike. But the pièce de
resistance is downstairs, below the surface
A deep sleepOn 28 December Durbanites painted the
town red… and blue, green and yellow. In
fact, pick your favourite colour. The worldwide
Holi Festival of Colours touched down in
Durban, South Africa, as part of a World
Tour. Having already been to Johannesburg
in September and Cape Town in October,
the festival certainly brought a new take on
the Rainbow Nation.
Holi is one of the largest festivals in
India. It announces the arrival of spring
and the passing of winter, and also marks
the victory of good over evil. During the
celebrations, the caste system is ignored and
all people are considered equal – the symbol
for that being the shared immersion in colour,
traditionally red. To express this, every hour on
the hour from 2pm a countdown culminated
in revellers throwing powder into the air to
create a massive explosion of colour.
Namibia has renamed the Caprivi Strip the
Zambezi Region in a move to downplay
its German colonial history. The 450km-long
fi nger of land, just 105km at its widest and
32km at it narrowest, is popular with visitors
for its tropical rivers and abundant wildlife. But
its very existence is an accident of history.
Formerly known as Itenge, this skinny
panhandle in the northeast of the country
was renamed in 1890 in honour of Count Leo
von Caprivi ( ), the Chancellor of Germany.
Germany gained control of the area after
signing the Heligoland Treaty with Great
Britain. Under its terms, Germany renounced
its claims to certain areas in East Africa,
thereby safeguarding Britain’s protectorates
in the region. In return Germany acquired
Heligoland, two strategic islands in the
North Sea, and Itenge. It was a deal based on a
miscalculation by the Germans.
It was Caprivi’s waterways that had
caught their eye, as they saw the chance to
open up a trade route through Zambia all the
way to the Indian Ocean. They forgot one
thing, however: a 108m-torrent of plunging
water called , or Victoria Falls.
The route was unnavigable, and the Germans
were stuck with a white elephant.
Caprivi becomes the Zambezi Region
Fancy laying your head somewhere different?
of the water – the bedroom.
Surrounded on
every side by panes of
glass, which aff ord
a 360-degree view,
you can while
away the hours
with a unique
outlook onto this
underwater world.
Shoals of reef fi sh
swim lazily by, while some simply hang
around the room, including three bat fi sh
and a trumpet fi sh called Nick. You might
even see a shark peering through your
window. At night spotlights beneath each
window attract some shyer and more
unusual marine life, such as squid.
Powder to the people
© F
ALKE
NST
EIN
FOTO
/ A
LAM
Y©
GEN
BER
G A
RT U
W L
TD/
PHO
TOG
RAPH
Y JE
SPE
R AN
HED
E
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 19
News
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
15 MARCH ■ CAPE TOWN CARNIVAL, SOUTH AFRICA
Here are our picks from the African calendar this quarter.
JANUARY-FEBRUARY ■ GORILLA SPOTTING, UGANDA
20 Travel Africa Winter 2014
© B
RUCE
SU
THER
LAN
D, C
ITY
OF
CAPE
TO
WN
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
African events
19 JANUARY ■ TIMKAT,
ETHIOPIA
2 MARCH ■ KILIMANJARO MARATHON, TANZANIA
WIL
D F
RON
TIER
S
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 21WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The Adventure Travel Show as a whole brings
together the biggest collection of specialist travel
operators under one roof, who will be on hand
to off er advice on everything from walking and
trekking, epic journeys, exploratory travels and
exclusive expeditions to safaris, overland trips, life-
changing volunteering projects and much more.
There’s also the chance to hear more than 100
free talks in four theatres, from explorers, industry
experts, guidebook writers and expedition leaders
who will help you uncover your perfect adventure.
If you are thinking of undertaking the
ultimate travel challenge of a self-supported trip
there is the Adventure Planning Seminar*, new
to this year’s show. A panel of world-renowned
expedition planners will help you plan your own
journey, whether it be by vehicle, motorbike, cycle,
horseback, walking or fl ying, on your own or part
of a small group.
Visitors can also take part in the Travel Writing
and Travel Photography Seminars*, which are suited
to both beginners and professionals looking to make
their work as powerful as possible.
News
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 23
ravel Africa
A show within a show, Discover Africa enables
visitors to explore the world’s most exciting
continent. This feature, dedicated purely to African
travel, is designed to provide you with all the
information and practical advice you require to plan
your adventure of a lifetime, whether you are a fi rst-
timer to Africa or a seasoned veteran.
The show is packed with Africa experts, so
take the opportunity to speak with safari operators,
conservation organisations, self-drive and overland
companies, tourism organisations and offi ces, and
activity and adventure specialists off ering climbing,
diving, walking, ballooning, fi shing, watersports, and
cycling. Discover Africa has the lot covered.
In addition there is a dedicated Africa theatre,
featuring inspirational talks, information and advice.
Planning a trip to Africa? Then don’t miss the Adventure Travel Show on 25-26 January at Olympia, London
© 4
CO
RNER
S
Ticket information
One-day entry: £4 in advance, quote ‘Travel Africa’ (normal price, £8) or £10 on the door, under-16s free
Weekend entry: £12 in advance or £15 on the door
For full details, talk timetables and to book tickets please go to www.adventureshow.com or call 0871 230 7159 (calls cost 10p per minute plus network extras).
*Seminar tickets are individually priced. Please see website for more details.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Levison WoodOn 1 December 2013 Levison Wood took the first steps on an ambitious journey to become the first person to walk the entire length of the River Nile. Before he left, he shared a few moments with Ash Bhardwaj.
In conversation with explorer
PHOTOGRAPHED BY DAVE SOUTHWOOD
24 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
What are you most looking forward to?The variety. I’ll be walking through literally
every environment possible, from jungle
to swamp and desert to sea. We only hear
stories of famine and war from Africa; but
there’s such beauty, history and incredible
culture. I’ll be visiting places that are
totally unexplored.
And dreading?Being away from home for so long will be a
tough mental challenge. The Sudd Marshes
in South Sudan will be quite an obstacle. The
Sahara in summer isn’t going to be much
fun either.
What are your favourite parts of Africa?Cape Town was where I first set foot in Africa,
twelve years ago, and it’s one of my favourite
cities in the world. But three years ago I led
an expedition to drive two ambulances from
London to Malawi, camping in the wilderness
in Tanzania. One morning we woke to find
a herd of elephants passing our camp; the
majesty of the bush is unlike anything you
can imagine.
Are you looking forward to seeing the wildlife?The most dangerous place to be in Africa is
between a hippo and water. That’s where I’ll be
spending the next twelve months, so I should
probably pay attention.
So, the obvious question first: why are you doing it?The Nile is integral to the imagination and
consciousness of British exploration, but it’s
misunderstood: when we hear “the Nile”,
most of us think of sipping a G&T on a barge
near Aswan. But that’s just the last stretch; I
want to tell the story of the first 3000 miles of
the river.
But for 12 months? On foot?Ernest Hemingway wrote: “I never knew of
a morning in Africa when I woke up that I
was not happy.” There’s something magnetic
about the place. Walking is the simplest, most
primal way to travel – it’s how our ancestors
migrated from Africa – and it’s the only way to
really get to know a place.
Why now?It’s never really been possible before: anti-
malarial drugs didn’t exist in Victorian times,
and that stopped most explorers in their
tracks. In recent years, conflict in Sudan
has prevented travel, but it’s relatively
stable now.
It seems risky, though.We live in a risk-averse world; adventure
is all about embracing risk, and doing your
best to manage it. If you really want to push
yourself, mentally and physically – or discover
something new – you have to take a risk.
The honours list of River Nile
explorers reads like a Who’s Who
of derring-do: Livingstone, Speke,
Stanley, Burton. So you’d expect
someone who’s attempting to walk its entire
length to be a bit stand-offish. But Lev Wood,
31, has an appealing warmth that sets him
apart from those Victorian wanderers.
I first met Lev ten years ago, just after
he’d got back from a summer trip to the
Middle East: a wrong turn while hitchhiking
landed him in Iraq, just months after the
US-led invasion. With admirable modesty, Lev
made it sound like a trip to Brighton rather
than Baghdad, and I realised that this was a
man who dealt with risk in an astonishingly
composed fashion.
In the following years, Lev backpacked
along the Silk Road, became a Captain in the
British Army, co-founded a travel company
and led world-first expeditions on every
continent except Antarctica. But unlike many
adventurous souls, Lev’s ambitions don’t come
from a need to conquer. Rather, they’re born
from a desire to discover.
He and I have worked together on several
projects, from uncovering stories of 1920s
Paris to researching the history of the Silk
Road, but I’ve never seen him so excited about
a trip as his current mission to walk the Nile.
Before he left, we caught up for a brandy at the
Royal Geographical Society so that I could find
out why.
WALKING THE NILELev’s walk began in the highlands of
Rwanda and will take him through the jungles of Tanzania and Uganda and into South Sudan.
After navigating the immense wetlands of the Sudd, which grow to the size of England during the rainy season, he tackles North Sudan and the epic march across the Sahara, around Lake Nasser into Egypt, finishing at Alexandria where the Nile empties in the Mediterranean Sea.
He has to walk 4250 miles, passing through six countries in 12 months.
That’s a distance of approximately 100 miles each week.
The expedition will be screened as a four-part documentary on Channel 4 later in 2014.
FOLLOW LEVBookmark www.walkthenile.com for updates and to follow Lev’s video blog Twitter: @WalkingTheNile
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 25
Interview
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
26 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Let us invite you to discover one of Tanzania’s best kept secrets.
Lake Manyara – a small breathtaking National Park with an immense
natural richness that is home to more than 380 bird species,
including the thousands of fl amingos that tint the soda waters of
the lake pink, and the famous tree-climbing lions, which for reasons
unknown sleep in the branches of acacia trees.
Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge is strategically located on the
very edge of the vertiginous western escarpment of the Rift Valley,
affording magnifi cent views down across the whole lake.
Lake Manyara Wildlife Lodge invites you to an unforgettable
safari experience from its privileged location, unrivalled by any
other, both for game viewing and scenery. Elegantly designed
as a two-level ensemble of buildings, its authentic traditional
African-style decorations create a unique atmosphere that perfectly
combines extreme tranquility with the best of adventure-packed
safari experiences.
From its privileged position, all the lodge’s 100 guestrooms have
stunning views across the tranquil and beautiful waters of the Lake.
The spectacular swimming pool, situated in a panoramic setting,
is a privileged location to enjoy the invigorating fresh air and the
breathtaking views of the pink lake.
ACTIVITIESGame drives Bird-walks Canoeing safaris and boating trips Mountain biking Ornithological safaris Horse riding Visits to the Mbu Cultural Tourism Programme
Romantic, remote, wild – that is Lobo Wildlife Lodge, located in the
north of Serengeti National Park, the most spectacular scenario
of wildlife in its pure essence. Lobo Wildlife Lodge is a dream
of romanticism in its remote location, strategically built into an
enormous volcanic rocky outcrop. It is the largest lodge on the
migration route, where it’s elevated position means that it can be
viewed from the comfort of a sun lounger. You can even watch from
the pool.
Artistically made of stone and local timber around clusters of large
boulders, harmoniously merging with its surroundings, the lodge
affords from its raised location stunning views of the most amazing
natural spectacle to be seen on Earth. Lobo is the fi rst lodge on the way
from Kenya to Tanzania, only 28km from the Masai Mara. The lodge
invites you to an unforgettable safari experience from its privileged
location, unrivalled by any other both for game viewing and scenery.
A waterhole below the lodge attracts a variety of wildlife during
the day and is lit each evening, providing a close encounter with an
interesting array of nocturnal animals. All the lodge’s 75 elegant
guestrooms afford superb views of this natural phenomenon, and
the sumptuous swimming pool is situated on the very edge of the
rock, offering uninterrupted views of the horizon.
ACTIVITIESDay wildlife watching Game drives Photographic safarisSpecialised migration safaris Ornithological safaris Hot air
balloon safaris Romantic picnics in the wilderness
The only lodge located on the very edge of the breathtaking escarpment of Lake Manyara National Park, affording magnifi cent views down across the lake.
The most romantic safari lodge in East Africa, remotely located in the north of Serengeti National Park, hidden within giant volcanic rocks and providing an unrivalled bird’s-eye perspective of the migration.
LAKE MANYARA WILDLIFE LODGE LOBO WILDLIFE LODGE
HOTELS AND LODGES TANZANIAwww.hotelsandlodges-tanzania.com [email protected] +255 27 2544595 / 807 / 798 / 795
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Ngorongoro Crater is often referred to as the eighth wonder of the
world… A large caldera 600 metres deep that hosts the most unique
ecosystem on Earth, with 20,000 large grazing mammals and the
largest concentration of predators on the planet, playing a key role
in the maintenance of the ecological balance.
Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge is strategically perched on the rim of
this ‘Garden of Eden’, affording unbelievable views plunging down
into the crater fl oor, 7500 feet above sea level.
The lodge is elegantly built mainly from natural stone and local
wood, harmoniously merging with its natural surroundings, and
its panoramic windows encompass superb views of the Crater’s
great bowl.
All the lodge’s 80 rooms are exquisitely decorated, offering a
serene atmosphere of elegance. The modern rooms are all en suite,
with central heating systems and mosquito netting over the air
vents. From their elevated position, the rooms afford breathtaking
uninterrupted views, and the open-air terrace of the Rhino Lounge
Bar offers superb panoramic views of the whole crater.
Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge invites you to an unforgettable
safari experience from its privileged location, both for game viewing
and scenery.
ACTIVITIES
The vast and spectacular Serengeti is the epitome of most people’s
vision of wild Africa; its endless rolling plains perfectly defi ne
the meaning of its name in the Maasai language – Seregenget or
Siringitu means the place where the land moves on forever.
Seronera is one of the most important spots in Serengeti National
Park, where you can witness an actual kill in the fl esh. This area is
in the heart of the Serengeti, where all game drives, balloon safaris,
and catching planes take place. Seronera Wildlife Lodge is located
on the migratory route, and it provides front-seat viewing of this
extraordinary natural phenomenon.
Seronera Wildlife Lodge is artfully constructed around a rocky
outcrop from glass and wood elements, perfectly blending into its
surroundings. Next to the lodge, several waterholes attract, day and
night, the most amazing animals, providing a unique opportunity
for a close encounter with the Big Five. Seronera Lodge is only fi ve
minutes from the departure point for hot air balloon safaris, which
offer a thrilling bird’s-eye wildlife perspective of the vast plains of
the Serengeti.
From its privileged location, the Seronera’s 75 rooms afford
stunning views of more than a million wildebeest as they migrate
from Kenya to Lake Victoria to escape the drought.
ACTIVITIES:
Winter 2014
True African hospitality
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
28 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Spoilt for choiceLuxurious lodges, romantic camps, remote campsites, quirky treehouses… there are masses of wonderful-sounding places to stay on safari. So how on earth do you choose?
If you want to be certain of finding accommodation that suits your interests, fits your budget and makes a positive contribution to conservation and community development, you’ll need to do some careful research – or consult a travel specialist you really trust. Emma Gregg is here to help you on your way.
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 29
Planning
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
A
What’s in your wallet?
Solo, couple or crowd?
All about the animals?
Where do I start?The reality is that nearly every destination offers a range of facilities, often through the whole budgetary scope and many with specific strengths. There are some simple questions to consider when narrowing down your options.
30 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Luxury at all costs?
Need know-how?
Keen to feel grounded?
“These days there are more and more
options which are community-owned, or
which support communities directly”
- Amanda Marks, Tribes
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 31
Planning
Where does your money go?
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Idube Game Lodge Sabi Sand Game Reserve
Mpumalanga
For more information, contact [email protected]
Tel +27 11 431 1120 www.idube.com
Land of Leopards
k
13 SAFARI CAMPS AND LODGES Botswana: Okavango Delta | Chobe Kenya: Masai Mara Tanzania: Saadani | Serengeti | Tarangire Uganda: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Zambia: Livingstone | South Luangwa
[email protected] | sanctuaryretreats.com
Farm Lodge
Get close to nature...A four-room, private and exclusive lodge, offering an authentic African experience.
Set in the Maasai Plains of Tanzania, it is a marriage of farmland, wildlife and Maasai life.
Contact Wendy on +255763876493
32 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Eager to break away from the herd?
So, should you ask an expert?
On safari, your bed for the night can be anything from a mattress and mosquito net in the wilds to a four-poster in a palatial lodge – each with service, facilities, atmosphere and culture to match. Which is best suited to you?
Campsites State-run accommodation Fly camping Tented camps Safari lodges
Room to manoeuvre?
“Three nights at a really
good lodge beats a week on
a cut-price minibus tour”
- Bill Adams, Safari Consultants
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 33WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Musango
34 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Royal MalewaneThornybush Private Game Reserve, near Kruger National Park, South Africa
Saadani Safari Lodge Saadani National Park, Tanzania
Rutundu Log CabinsMt Kenya, Kenya
Chobe Game LodgeChobe National Park, Botswana
Karkloof Safari SpaKwa-Zulu Natal, South Africa
Wasa LodgeKasanka National Park, Zambia
Governors’ CampMasai Mara, Kenya
Most lodges or camps offer a particular character, a feeling rooted in the location, back story, architecture, hosts or guides. To demonstrate, Emma Gregg picks a few that caught her imagination.
Character building
Governors’ Camp
Royal Malewane
Saadani Safari Lodge
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 35
Planning
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The big green lie
So you want to stay somewhere with ‘green credentials’? What does that mean, exactly, and how can you find out what your proposed hosts are doing to support the environment and community? David Bristow and Colin Bell, co-authors and founders of Africa’s Finest, make the case for choosing accommodation with impeccable responsible tourism pedigree.
Choosing a positive
36 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Many shades of green
environment?
The days of lodges continuing to spew out carbon pollution to create
electricity should be long over
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 37
Planning
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
38 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
What did we look for?
Sustainable design and construction
Lodge operations
Kitchen
Water supply
Electricity
Hot water
Sewage and grey water
Waste management
Wildlife and conservation
Staff
Community and governments
Conservancies
Lodge activities
Vehicles and boats
Payments
Travelling responsibly
If safari tourism is carefully structured and
managed, it can become the prime industry
that ensures the preservation of the planet’s
remaining wildernesses
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 39
Planning
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Botswana
Central African Republic
Kenya
Madagascar
Malawi
The following camps or lodges scored the highest in the Africa’s Finest evaluation process – conducted over three years – and represents what the project’s adjudicators deem to be the 50 premier safari properties.
Mozambique
Namibia
Rwanda & Uganda
Seychelles
South Africa
Africa’s Finest?
Buy your copy of Africa’s Finest
Order your copy today from www.travelafricashop.com. Stocks are limited.
Have your say!
Tanzania
Zambia
Zimbabwe
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 41
Planning
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
44 Travel Africa Winter 2014
O
[email protected] | Skype: lemalanbores
+255 27 254 8966/52 | www.lemalacamp.com
ADVERTISING PROMOTION
Soul of theerengeti
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Karibu!
WE’D LIKE YOUR HELP TO SHAPE THE DEVELOPMENT OF TRAVEL AFRICA MAGAZINE
What sort of content do you want more of?
How do you prefer to receive the magazine?
Do you read articles or view pictures online?
What do you think we’re getting wrong?
PLEASE GIVE US YOUR OPINION... and you’ll go in a draw to WIN a great prize
TELL US WHAT YOU THINK
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 43
PLEASE COMPLETE OUR QUESTIONNAIRE AT WWW.TRAVELAFRICAMAG.COM
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Re-Live your dreams!
Tanzania Best Lodge and Luxury Camp Safari Services
Explore Tanzania with kearsley’sOne-Stop Shop Service
KearsleysT r a v e l & T o u r s
Est. 1948
2013
Leopard Beach Resort & Spa is delighted to have been voted both Kenya’s Leading Resort 2013 and Africa’s Leading Spa Resort 2013 at the prestigious World Travel Awards. The resort offers a choice of upgraded accommodation including 20 suites, cottages and villas; new wining and dining venues; and of course Uzuri, Diani’s – and now Africa’s – favourite spa. The latest addition to the resort, The Residences will offer luxury two-and three-bedroomed villas, each boasting their own pool, privately situated within the resort grounds.
So whether you are looking for the perfect family getaway, the dream wedding venue or an inspirational destination for your next incentive group or conference, come and visit the multi-award-winning Leopard Beach Resort & Spa.
C O M E A N D L I V E Y O U R D R E A M S
OpeningDecember 2013
www.leopardbeachresort.com
nominee: world’s leading spa resort 2013
A F R I C A T R A V E L S P E C I A L I S T S
pioneering journeys through africa
Uganda
Tanzania
Kenya
Rwanda
Ethiopia
Botswana
Zambia
Zimbabwe
Tel: +27 11 702 2035
+27 72 927 7529
Fax: +27 86 689 6759
www.wildfrontiers.com
44 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 45
Our Destinations include:Tanzania, Kenya, Uganda / Rwanda
Wildlife Safaris• Air Ticketing• Mountain Trekking • Beach Holidays• Cultural Tourism• Honeymoon Packages• Balloon Safari• Hotel & Lodges Reservations• Gorilla Tracking• Car Hire• Corporate Events• Tailormade Packages•
TFA HQ, PLOT 76, SHULE ROAD, P.O. BOX 1684 Arusha – Tanzania,Tel: +255 27 854 4633 / 254 5947 Fax: +255 27 254 4991,Email: [email protected] | Web: www.worldairtravelandtours.com
We Specialise in:
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
46 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Use our knowledge and experience to plan a vacation you will never forget! We’ll take away the hassle, add something special whilst saving your money. Our local guides and team promise fl awless, meticulously planned, luxury travel to the most unbelievable destinations. With tropical islands, wildlife and mountains to explore our destinations include the most diverse countries in Africa.
Africa is our home and we take great pride in showing it off . Malawian Style getaways vary from high end intimate and romantic retreats, to adrenaline fi lled adventures. No matter what your version of the African dream, we pride ourselves on our local knowledge, expertise and ability to tailor destinations and experiences to individual visions. We off er a range of products without faltering on standards; our people oriented service, passion and enthusiasm ensure incredible experiences.
Pumulani, Lake Malawi
Photo: The Bushcamp Company
Sausage Tree Camp, Lower Zambezi
Mumbo Island, Lake Malawi
email: [email protected] www.malawianstyle.com
YOUR PERSONAL TOUR OPERATOR
Islands of Siankaba, Livingstone
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
R
From rags to riches
Rivers of change
From poachers’ playground to thriving game reserve: at last some positive news for Africa’s wildlife. Aaron Gekoski and Gemma Catlin visit Malawi’s Majete National Park to discover a conservation success story in action.
48 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
ALL PHOTOS ROBIN POPE SAFARIS, EXCEPT RHINO: AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 49
Malawi
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
From beach to mountain and the Big 5 to kite surfing
Malawi has something for everyone...
Let our experience make your experience
+265 (0)1794 555
www.ulendo.net
– ABOUT US –
Based in Malawi
Independent Travel, Group Travel, School Groups, Charity Challenges, Corporate and Philanthropic Travel
5% of RSC profit is donated to community projects in Malawi
– CONTACT US –
info@responsiblesafaricompany.comwww.responsiblesafaricompany.com
Tel UK: +44 (0)208 133 8611Tel Malawi: +265 (0)111602 407
Skype: responsible.safari.company
Picture by Gem
ma C
atlin
50 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Botswana
Wildlife relocations in numbers
Ten years on and, with the reintroduction of over 2500 animals, they’ve successfully breathed life back into this once beleaguered reserve, creating Malawi’s first park to offer the Big Five
Walk this way. The wildlife restocking programme has helped draw visitors to discover Majete’s dramatic scenery
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS
AARO
N G
EKO
SKI
/G
EMM
A CA
TLIN
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 51
Malawi
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
NAMIBIA SOUTH AFRICA SWAZILAND BOTSWANA ZAMBIA MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE
See big and small game and an brilliant
variety of birds, and all the must-sees in
this amazing mix of countries, including
the Victoria Falls, Table Mountain and
all the wonderful World Heritage sites.
Relax as you discover nature’s many
secrets, enjoy the excellent food and
wines, then sleep soundly in the
stillness and peace of the African night.
Africa awaits – when will you go?
AFRICAEXPLORERTel: 020 89 87 87 42email: [email protected]
Let us help you choose your own safari,
to see southern Africa at the pace you
want to go at. We will plan your safari
holiday with care, to your specifications
and timetable, ideas and budget – and
we will also suggest our own ideas.
Unwind in game lodges, hotels, B&Bs,
guest farms or national parks.
Two heads are better than one
NAMIBIA SOUTH AFRICA SWAZILAND BOTSWANA ZAMBIA MALAWI MOZAMBIQUE
52 Travel Africa Winter 2014
This serene, beautiful 500 acre Chimwenya game park and lodge is set in the indigenous forests and grasslands of the Shire Highlands of Southern Malawi approximate-ly 20km from Blantyre.
Experience exceptional viewing of wildlife which include
birdlife.
Enjoy in this tranquil setting our 5 luxurious ensuite
with exceptional views. There is also a choice of 20 spacious executive suites.
As part of the unique Game Haven Experience, treat yourself, friends and business associates to the interna-tionally designed & constructed Peter Matkovich 9 hole golf course which combines the amazing natural environment with a challenging course. Mbawa Country
Enjoy international cuisine at the Ambrosia restaurant, relax at the picturesque swimming
lawns of Lake Bvumbwe.
Mwana Park is now open, a children's
for relaxing with the family. ` +265 (0) 999 971 287/288
game haven lodge
There’s something for everyone
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The big questions
Where to stay
When to visit
Getting there
On the appMore photos of Majete, including images of the
wildlife relocation, appear on the App. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’.
Top: Much of Majete is covered with beautiful, mature miombo woodlands
Above left: Thanks to a prolonged restocking programme, you can now expect rewarding wildlife encounters in the many waterways of the reserve
Above right: Stepping out. A suspended walkway over the river leads to camp
AARON GEKOSKI /GEMMA CATLIN ROBIN POPE SAFARIS
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 53
Malawi
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
By Phillip Briggs
54 Travel Africa Winter 2014
stops
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 55
History
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN©
ARI
ADN
E VA
N Z
AND
BER
GEN
Afar Region Cradle of Humankind
Isimilia Stone Age site
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
56 Travel Africa Winter 2014
© A
RT K
OW
ALS
KY /
ALA
MY
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
Nile Valley
Alexandria
Lion Cave
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 57
History©
ARI
ADN
E VA
N Z
AND
BER
GEN
© S
UPE
RSTO
CK /
ALA
MY
El Djem Amphitheatre
Axum
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
58 Travel Africa Winter 2014
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
Wassu
Timbuktu and Djenne
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 59
History©
ARI
ADN
E VA
N Z
AND
BER
GEN
Lalibela
Berbera
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
60 Travel Africa Winter 2014
© A
FRIC
A M
EDIA
ON
LIN
E /
ALAM
Y
© K
ARIN
DU
THIE
/ A
LAM
Y
Great Zimbabwe
Mapungubwe Hill
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 61
History
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
Elmina and Cape Coast
Kilwa Kisiwani
Ilha da Moçambique
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
62 Travel Africa Winter 2014
© A
RIAD
NE
VAN
ZAN
DB
ERG
EN
© IC
ON
OTE
C /
ALAM
Y
© H
OB
ERM
AN C
OLL
ECTI
ON
/ A
LAM
Y
Robben Island
Saint-Louis
Bagamoyo
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Tabby Mittins is a freelance travel writer from Hoedspruit, South Africa. Together with her partner, Villiers Steyn, she explores southern Africa’s wildest national parks and game reserves in search of unforgettable experiences and sightings.
The Tuli Wilderness in southeastern Botswana truly feels like a place where time has stood still. The land has remained largely unfenced and untouched, leaving the wildlife to wander as instinct dictates. So what better way to explore this enchanted land of dust than in the footsteps of the giants who call it home. Tabby Mittins and photographer Villiers Steyn step into the tracks of elephants to fi nd out what this beguiling region has to share.
aAL
L PH
OTO
S: V
ILLI
ERS
STEY
N
64 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 65
Botswana
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
‘I never knew of a morning
in Africa when I woke up
that I was not Happy’
- Ernest Hemingway -
Tel : +27 72 170 8879 | Email [email protected]
www.muchenje.com
Dav
e So
uthw
ood
66 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Botswana
We were met with the initially startled, then baffled, gaze of an adult female calmly observing our progress from the rocks just above
Below: No laughing matter. She says she remained calm, but we reckon this was quite a test
Right: Keeping track. Guide Stuart Quinn reveals the secrets of the sand. An experienced guide will enrich the safari experience beyond measure by sharing his knowledge of the workings of the wild
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 67
Botswana
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
• INSPIRING LOCATIONS THAT FILL THE SOUL • UNRIVALLED SAFARIS AND WILDLIFE EXPERIENCES • ECO LODGES AND CAMPS WITH WELCOMING HOSTS • KNOWLEDGEABLE AND PASSIONATE GUIDES • FASCINATING HISTORY AND CULTURE
For tailormade holidays and safaris, contact us on: +44 (0) 1823 451959 email: [email protected]
www.outposts-travel-africa.co.ukfi [email protected] · +44 (0)1442 827 500
Skype: ngoko.fi ona · www.ngoko.com 20932
Owner-run and passionate about Africa, we provide a friendly yet highly professional service. With our expert local knowledge we
design journeys of discovery to enrich your soul. Private guiding is a speciality. Consider travelling with one of Africa’s top guides, and our
co-founder, Benson Siyawareva.
68 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
ZIMBABWEZIMBABWEZIMBABWE
BOTSWANA
SOUTH AFRICA
Northern Tuli Game Reserve
MapungubweNational Park
Tuli Circle
Northern Tuli Game Reserve
MapungubweNational Park
Tuli Circle
MathathanePont Drift
Alldays
Mashatu Main Camp
Tuli Safari Lodge
MathathanePont Drift
Alldays
Mashatu Main Camp
Tuli Safari Lodge
5 miles0
0 10 km
GETTING THEREBy road: From Johannesburg (South Africa) via Polokwane, Vivo, Alldays and Pont Drift or Platjan border posts (6-7 hours). It is best to confi rm with Tuli Wilderness which border post to use, since some border posts close due to periodical fl ooding of the Limpopo River. Pickups from the border can be arranged. For complete directions visit www.tulitrails.com and click on ‘Where are we’.Vehicle entry: P195 (Botswanan Pula), also payable in South African Rands. Correct vehicle licence and paperwork are essential.By air: Chartered fl ights make use of Limpopo Valley Airfi eld, located approximately an hour’s drive from Tuli Wilderness. Transfers to and from the airfi eld can be arranged.
WHEN TO VISITTrails can be organised all year round, but the drier
months (April to September) are the best time for walking, being mild and comfortable, with daytime temperatures averaging 20-30˚C.
The best time for tracking (the driest time of year) is from June to October. Between October and March, it can be incredibly hot and temperatures may soar as high as 46˚C.
VISASTourists do not require a visa when visiting Botswana. However a valid passport, with at least six months left before expiry and two empty pages, is required.
MALARIAThe Tuli Block is located in a low risk malaria zone, but it is recommended that visitors take prophylaxis when visiting during the rainy season (December-March).
FIND OUT MORETuli Wilderness Trails (www.tulitrails.com)
Above: Highlights. Gazing out across the endless miles of Tuli’s prehistoric wilderness, you feel powerfully connected to nature
On the AppA story on the Tuli Block, from our archive, appears
on the App. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 69
Botswana
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Of all the big cats, the lion is the easiest to encounter on safari. While leopards remain elusive and cheetahs live at low density, lions roar often in the night, males march across the plains, lords of all they survey, and prides routinely pass the daylight hours if not in full view then in easily accessible pools of shade. Lions are cats of few mysteries, one of scant species in the wild that can afford to be visible and at rest.And yet, lions are in trouble.
So you want tosee a lion, do you?
Photograph: Jonathan and Angela Scott
70 Travel Africa Winter 201470 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 71
Conservation
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 71WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
72 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
N
The mane eventWords: Brian Jackman Photograph: Jonathan and Angela Scott
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 73
Conservation
Buy this, the previous or other images as prints from the Scott’s Fine Art collection at www.jonathanangelascott.com
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
74 Travel Africa Autumn 2013
N
Words: Anthony Ham Photograph: Frans Lanting, Mint Images / Science Photo Library
74 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
THREATS TO THE LION
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 75
Conservation
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
This spread: Uncertain future: what do the coming decades hold for the descendants of cubs such as these?
Previous spread: In the wild, a male lion typically patrols a vast territory of up to 100 square miles
PHOTO THIS PAGE: BEVERLY JOUBERT (WWW.BEVERLYJOUBERT.COM)
76 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
REGIONS AND STRONGHOLDS
East Africa
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 77
Conservation
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Central Africa
North and West Africa
SUCCESS STORIES AND SOLUTIONS
Lion Guardians
Southern Africa
Based on trends in lion numbers over the past century, lions could disappear from the wild in the next ten to fifteen years
TON
Y H
EALD
/ N
ATU
REPL
.CO
M
78 Travel Africa Winter 2014
The pale markings immediately below the lion’s eyes improve visual acuity by reflecting extra light into the eyes. Further light-gathering power is provided by the tapetum lucidum, a reflective layer at the back of the eyeball which bounces light back, to give the retina a second chance to harness it.
The dew claw, analogous to our thumbnail, is clear of the ground as the lion walks. It gets very little wear and grows longer than the other claws. The lion uses it to hold down a carcass while tearing off mouthfuls of meat.
Lions may use their claws and body weight to grip and slow down a struggling animal, but they usually kill by strangulation, via a bite to the neck. The 10cm-long canines, applied with a bite force of nearly 50 bar, have enough crushing force to shut down the throat of the largest prey.
This young lion shows the remnants of the spotted pattern it had as a cub. Both a cub’s spots and an adult lion’s uniform tawny coat provide camouflage: the former from potential predators as the cubs hide in shady cover; the latter from prey as the lion moves in the open.
A running lion times its strides with its breathing, so that it inhales at the point where its extended forelegs allow maximum expansion of the very large lungs. Its ability to take in large volumes of air quickly means it can accelerate rapidly and outpace its prey in the first crucial moments of the chase.
When stalking prey a lion uses its whiskers to detect close objects, such as vegetation that could rustle if stepped on, allowing it to keep its gaze focused on its target at all times. This is especially important at night, when the fully expanded pupils make close focusing difficult.
ANATOMY OF A HUNTERWords: Marianne Taylor
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The expert view
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
Dereck Joubert PHOTO: BEVERLY JOUBERT
SEE PAGE 82 TO FIND OUT HOW YOU CAN SEE MORE OF BEVERLY’S
IMAGES SUPPORTING THE NEW FILM, ‘GAME OF LIONS’, BY
DERECK AND BEVERLY JOUBERT
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 79
Conservation
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
80 Travel Africa Winter 2014
+255 (0)78 822 1440
www.asanjaafrica.com
Located on the path of the migration, one of the ten natural wonders of the world, Asanja Africa is an exotic, luxury-tented camp that transports you to a bygone era, when the Masaai once ruled the wide-open plains of the Serengeti.
Tucked away in a sea of grass, amidst rocky islands, known as the Moru Kopjes, which provide ample shade for prides of lion, Asanja is a perfect place for game viewing.
Come escape the crowds, and experience the African wilderness...
Mbalageti SerengetiIn Your Wildest DreamsLocated off the beaten track in the Western Corridor of the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania, Mbalageti offers an exclusive safari living experience. The Lodge boasts 2 Exclusive Suites, 24 Tented Chalets and 14 Lodge Rooms (for budget travellers). All rooms have en suite bathrooms with luxury amenities and are designed with attention to the smallest detail. The Swimming Pool Deck, Bar and Restaurant, located on the tip of the hill with a 360 degree view, is the perfect venue for relaxing after a day of game viewing.
For further information, kindly contact:+255 28 262 2388 [email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Compensation
The best places to see lions
Buffer zones
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
“Not every operator is perfect, but it is important to know that a trip to Africa is a positive thing for the planet.”Dereck Joubert
Anthony Ham is a regular contributor to Travel Africa, and the author of the latest edition of Lonely Planet’s guide to Kenya.
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 81
Conservation
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
FUTURE DEBATES
The role of tourism
Fences
A role for trophy hunting?
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
We’re extraordinarily lucky that award-winning photographer Beverly Joubert has given Travel Africa readers a sneak preview of still images from Game of Lions, the new film by Dereck and Beverly Joubert.
The images appear on the App edition of Travel Africa. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’.
See also Beverly Joubert’s fine art website: www.beverlyjoubert.com
For more on the Jouberts’ tourism activities, visit www.greatplainsconservation.com
On the App
LAURENT GESLIN / NATUREPL.COM
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 83
Conservation
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
In mid-November, the U.S. government crushed
its six tons of confi scated ivory to highlight
the plight of Africa’s elephants. AWF took the
opportunity to urge other countries around
the world to follow suit and destroy their own
ivory stockpiles. With more than 35,000 African
elephants killed for their tusks every year, AWF
proposed all countries implement domestic
moratoria on trade in ivory until elephant
populations are no longer threatened.
This new position by AWF comes in
response to the changing situation on the
ground. “Right now, Africa is hemorrhaging
elephants,” says Bergin. “Elephant carcasses
lie strewn in forests, on savannas and in
national parks, and their stolen ivory fl ows
out of Africa’s airports and seaports to illegal
ivory markets around the world. The only way
to staunch the movement of illegal ivory is to
wipe out the demand, and that begins with
destroying stockpiles and stopping trade.”
Though a 1989 ban on international
trade in ivory remains in place, many
countries—including China and the United
States—allow raw and worked ivory to be
traded domestically.
84 Travel Africa Winter 2014
African Wildlife Foundation
Protecting the red colobusAccording to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (or IUCN) Red List of
Threatened Species, the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus monkey population
has declined by more than 80 per cent in the past few decades. In Niger, AWF initially funded
a Niger Delta survey of the Nigeria–Cameroon chimpanzee by Nigerian researcher Rachel
Ashegbofe Ikemeh, who is also working to protect the Niger Delta red colobus. We have since
expanded our support for Ikemeh to create a conservation zone in the Idanre region of
Nigeria. Pictured here is the Ugandan red colobus.
For the fi rst time, everyday
Congolese are taking
an active role in the
conservation of their
country’s bonobos. In the
Congo landscape, AWF has
trained 50 people from
the Congolese wildlife
authority (Institut Congolais
pour la Conservation de
la Nature, or ICCN) and
the local community
to use CyberTracker
technology units to conduct
ecological monitoring in
the Lomako–Yokokala
Faunal Reserve. The trained
individuals walk the reserve
in groups of fi ve to eight
people, looking for signs
of wildlife and recording
their sightings into the
CyberTracker.
Previously only
ICCN ecoguards had
been allowed inside the
protected area. Now
that trained community
members are able to enter
to conduct the ecological
monitoring, AWF Congo
Landscape Director Charly
Facheux says they are
beginning to understand
more fully the value of
conservation and their role
in protecting wildlife. He
adds: “It is really wise to
work with them; they know
the geography very well.”
JEF
DU
PAIN
80% DECLINE OF
THE COLOBUS MONKEY
IN THE PAST FEW DECADES
Local ecological monitoring
CRUSH ALL IVORY
SIX TONS OF CONFISCATED
IVORY CRUSHED
The African Wildlife Foundation (AWF) is an international conservation organisation that focuses on critically important landscapes in Africa. AWF works to conserve wildlife, but within a larger framework of natural resource management that ensures the viability of ecosystems and provides access to economic opportunities for communities living in resource-rich regions. On these pages is a sample of the type of work AWF is involved in. To fi nd out how you can help, go to www.awf.org.
JAMIE COTTEN
CRAI
G R
. SH
OLL
EY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Conservation
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 85
Indulge the chocolate lover in you
while also supporting AWF: through
its GiveBack partnership programme,
premium organic chocolate-maker
Endangered Species Chocolate (ESC)
has given five per cent of its net profits
to AWF since 2009. Donations from ESC
have been instrumental in underwriting
our African Apes Initiative to save
Africa’s great ape populations. They have
also supported some of our rhino and
elephant anti-poaching efforts. Last year,
ESC donated well over US$100,000 to
AWF from its chocolate sales.
To buy your ESC chocolate, visit awf.org/
chocolate
Chocolatey goodness
MAR
TIN
HAR
VEY
CONSERVATION CELEBRATIONSAs part of the 50th anniversary of Kidepo Valley National Park, one of the protected areas targeted under the USAID/Uganda Tourism for Biodiversity Program, AWF and Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) honored 10 Ugandan women who have shown exemplary leadership in conservation, including Dr. Margaret Druciri (pictured), a wildlife veterinarian with UWA who rescues injured or orphaned wildlife. This new ‘Uganda Women in Conservation’ recognition aims to encourage female youth to take up careers in conservation.
UG
AND
A W
ILD
LIFE
AU
THO
RITY
For the latest news and updates on AWF activities, follow us on Facebook, Google+, Twitter or YouTube. Log on to awf.org and follow the links for social media.
In October, more than 100 elephants in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park were killed and their tusks stolen when their watering holes and salt licks were poisoned with industrial cyanide, often used in gold mining. (Some reports are putting the elephant death toll at closer to 300.)
“Though elephants may
have been the target, poison is indiscriminate in who or what it kills. Lions, hyenas, vultures, kudus and other wildlife, in addition to elephants, have fallen victim,” says Philip Muruthi, senior director of conservation science at AWF.
Several arrests have been made in connection with the poisoning. Some of the
poachers who were caught even received 15-year jail sentences.
“Wildlife crime is not often seen as very serious and deserving of severe punishment but these jail sentences are very high, which suggests the authorities in Zimbabwe are taking this tragedy very seriously,” says Jimmiel Mandima, AWF’s U.S. government liaison and a Zimbabwe national. “Hwange is a huge area to monitor and protect. With limited staff and resources, I suspect park authorities were themselves
taken by surprise.” Reports suggest many of
the poachers came from local villages near the park. This is one of the reasons why AWF works so closely with local communities: those with access to economic opportunities and other social benefits are less inclined to turn to poaching and more likely to help catch poachers and traffickers.
“When local people benefit from living near wildlife, they will take ownership of and defend their natural resources,” said Muruthi.
ELEPHANTS POISONED IN ZIMBABWE
Supported by African Wildlife Foundation
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
86 Travel Africa Winter 2014
I
The road less travelledKenya is not usually the fi rst destination you’d choose for a self-drive safari. So when wildlife photojournalists Steve and Ann Toon decided to tour its wildlife reserves in a restored but rusting 1970s Toyota Land Cruiser, it was sure to be an epic adventure...
Steve and Ann Toon are UK-based wildlife photographers and journalists with a specialist interest in wildlife, conservation issues and southern Africa. They are regular contributors to Travel Africa.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 87
Kenya
We’re delivering
carrots to four of the
last seven remaining
northern white
rhinos on earth
No monkey business. Located on the equator, between the foothills of the Aberdares and Mt Kenya, Ol Pejeta is the largest sanctuary for black rhino in East Africa, and the only place one can see chimpanzees in Kenya
ALL PHOTOS: STEVE AND ANN TOON
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
88 Travel Africa Winter 2014
PROMOTING TOURISM TO
AFRICA FROM ALL CORNERS OF THE WORLD
Recognised as the Voice of African Tourism, Atta reaches across 22 countries in Africa, showcasing over 530 elite buyers and suppliers of African tourism product.
Leading role at trade shows around the world
Networking opportunities
Industry representation on international commitees & the media
Interactive platform for information & education
Daily news service on all aspects of African tourism
Network of specialist consultants
Join our knowledgeable and experienced membership to increase awareness and visibility of your company
Lead Sponsor | Working in partnership with Atta
attatourism l www.atta.travel l [email protected] @atta_tourism
Saruni lodges are unique and intimate safari lodges set in Kenya’s most beautiful, private wildlife conservancies, off ering the ultimate in luxury and authenticity and committed to conservation and community. www.saruni.com | [email protected] | +254 (0)735 950 903
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 89
Kenya
Left: Pelicans generally feed near the water’s edge, where they catch multiple small fish by expanding the throat pouch. This must be drained above the water surface before swallowing. Large fish are caught with the bill-tip, then tossed in the air to be caught and slid into the gullet head-first. Not that the buffalo seems to care
Right: The going is slow, and 4WD is recommended – indeed, essential – on many of Kenya’s more rural roads
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
90 Travel Africa Winter 2014
www.fl amboyant.co | [email protected] | +254 733 411110
Walking with Maasai warriors in Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara
Porini Safari Camps in Kenya for an exclusive wildlife experience:
Porini Amboseli, Selenkay Conservancy, Amboseli
Porini Rhino, Ol Pejeta Conservancy, Laikipia
Porini Mara, Ol Kinyei Conservancy, Masai Mara
Porini Lion, Olare Orok Conservancy, Masai Mara
www.porini.com [email protected] 0870-4717122
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 91
Kenya
Guide books and online forums are crammed with warnings about the risks of driving in Kenya, but with a little confidence and a lot of common sense we found it can be fantastic fun. In our experience:
Roads vary from a few slick Chinese-built modern highways to potholed nightmares where only goat herders use what’s left of the tar, and motor vehicles take their chances driving on the unmade verges. Most major routes are useable if you’re alert, but watch out for the killer speed humps in and around towns and villages: any warning signs or road markings have long since disappeared.
Plan ahead. Don’t rely on having to ask for directions: in remote areas you may struggle to communicate and locals (even policemen) often have limited knowledge of places beyond their immediate home. Road signs generally are in short supply, often absent even at major junctions. You need a good map (we used the Reise 1:950,000), and a handheld GPS might be a good idea. Get directions from lodges before you travel. Some will tell you, for example, the mileage from an obvious landmark to their turn-off.
Local driving standards vary from average to appalling, and you need to expect the worst: drivers who pull out from side roads without looking, overtake on blind bends, cut you up, fail to indicate, or wave you past when it isn’t safe to overtake.
Plan your itinerary to keep daily travel distances short, so you can drive slowly. Where in South Africa we may cover 1000km in a day, in Kenya we wouldn’t plan on more than 250km. Even major routes are often single carriageway and snarled up with slow-moving HGVs.
Absolutely avoid driving at night. This is when many accidents happen.
In central Nairobi there is permanent gridlock. Everyone ignores the traffic lights and give way signs (including the police), and the only way you’ll get out at a junction is to push forward slowly but assertively.
Hire a driver. If you’re still nervous, many rental companies will hire you a driver/guide with your vehicle. Keep your off-roading on the road. Generally game reserves are very easy to self-drive in, but be wary of going off-road (if it’s allowed), especially in muddy conditions. If you’re an inexperienced self-driver, larger reserves like the Mara may be better explored with a local guide or driver, or you can book onto game drives organised by your lodge.
4WD Hire. We borrowed Barney from a friend, but more recent 4WD vehicles can be rented (with or without chauffeur) from several companies, including Europcar (europcar.co.ke) or Safari Drive (safaridrive.co.uk).
Recommended reading: The Rough Guide to Kenya (www.roughguides.com)
Our driving advice
On the AppMore information on the northern black rhino, and on the places visited by the Toons, appears on our App. Search the iTunes App Store for ‘Travel Africa magazines’.
A sign of things to come: the Mara
beckons at the end of a long sandy approach
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The Kalahari region of southeast Namibia is home to none of the country’s major tourist hotspots. Its greatest claim to fame used to be a spectacular sandstone masterpiece known as God’s Finger; but this geological anomaly collapsed way back in 1988 and the area has languished off the safari circuit ever since.
Intrigued to find out whether there are any other notable attractions secreted amongst the dolerite boulders and red Kalahari sands, Stephen Cunliffe decided to set out and explore. The off-the-beaten-track highlights he discovered among the region’s sprawling sheep farms and wide open spaces don’t feature in any tourist brochures. Yet.
Cappuccinos in Koës
Explore: Drop Frieda an email ([email protected]) and she will prepare your favourite dish or pack you a picnic in advance.
Dine under the stars
Explore: DuneSong Breathers (www.dunesong.net)
92 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Star struck. A tranquil night at DuneSong Breathers
Undiscovered Namibia
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 93WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Discovering dinosaurs
Explore: Mesosaurus Fossil Camp ([email protected])
The devil’s camel ride
2
1
94 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Explore: Stay at Quivertree Forest Rest Camp (www.quivertreeforest.com)
Red dune quad biking
Explore: Intu Afrika (www.intu-afrika.com)
A quirky welcome awaits at the Moer Toe Coffee Shop
Fossil hunting at Mesosaurus
Quad biking in desert-adapted giraffe country
Dwarfed by the sculptural flora of the Quiver Tree Forest
2
1
3
4
3
4
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 95
Undiscovered Namibia
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Mobile Safaris in luxury and standard tents Tailormade safaris (Accommodated and Mobile) Namibia | Botswana | Zambia www.karibunamibia.com
DDiscover the real Africa with Karibu Safari
TourmalineTailormade Tours
From the sand sea of the Namib, to the luscious beauty
of the Okavango Delta and the majesty of Victoria Falls,
share our passion for Africa and let us help turn your
dream into an unforgettable journey.
96 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Chameleon Holidays & Travel Phone (+ 264) 61- 309387, Email [email protected] Web www.chameleonholidays.com, Skype chameleon.holidays
Facebook Chameleon Holidays & Travel
NAMIBIABOTSWANAZAMBIA ZIMBABWE SOUTH AFRICA
As well as being tailor-made, self-drive and specialists,
& Travel can also assist in arranging activities such as and taking
part in a
London Earls Court 6 - 9 Feb 2014
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 97WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
As evidenced by the exceptional range of bird and animal imagery in his new book, An Intimate African Journey, South African photographer and Travel Africa columnist Lou Coetzer proves how a deep understanding of wildlife behaviour – as well as strong technical ability – can help you to capture some of nature’s extraordinary moments.
To learn more from Lou, be sure to attend his photographic workshop in Oxford in March, held in conjunction with Travel Africa magazine. See page 102 for details.
encounterscl se
98 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
African jacana chicks are
precocial, being able to swim, dive and feed soon after hatching. The ungainly juveniles balance precariously on the edge of a leaf, sinking slowly, until they are overcome by the rising water. Only then do they reluctantly set off, swimming frantically for the next leaf
Portfolio
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 99WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
100 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Portfolio
Botswana’s rainfall peaks
from November to February, fi lling the Chobe River to capacity and often overfl owing its banks. The heavy rains fi ll every cavity in the surrounding landscape and the abundance of standing water causes a decrease in the numbers of large animals coming down to the river to drink.
The crocs in turn are deprived of their usual quotas of big prey to hunt at the riverbank.
Ever the opportunists, these predators of prehistory turn the situation to their advantage. The fast-fl owing waters of the deeper river make it diffi cult to hunt fi sh, but the steeper riverbanks allow them to sneak up to smaller, unsuspecting prey. Numerous small species of game, birds and even the occasional, nervous squirrel milling about serve as convenient snacks.
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 101WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
102 Travel Africa Winter 2014
African fi sh eagles are intensely territorial. They will immediately intercept any invader or predator that dares to intrude on their turf. At the end of the Chobe fl ood
season, around mid-May, the water level drops quite rapidly. With this subsidence, big catfi sh that are stranded in the newly formed mud will go into hibernation. After the fi rst heavy rains of the new season in November, the water levels slowly rise. The catfi sh then surface from their seasonal slumber. During this transition, while the waters are still low, the fi sh fi nd themselves trapped and vulnerable. Their frenzied thrashing about in the mud attracts large numbers of birds of prey. On one occasion we observed a greedy juvenile fi sh eagle struggling to lift a huge catfi sh out of the shallow water, only to fi nd itself defending its trophy from a concerted attack by a marabou stork.
PHOTOSCHOOL
TRAVEL AFRICA
Photographic workshopWant to improve your photography
skills? In conjunction with Travel Africa,
South Africa-based Lou Coetzer will be
hosting photographic workshops at the
University Club, Oxford, on March 8
and 9, 2014.
Suitable for amateurs and pros alike,
the fi rst day will focus on:
Rethinking the fundamentals of photography
Applying your equipment correctly
Photography basics
Application to wildlife photography
The second day will consider: Software, workfl ow and editing (top
tips which will dramatically change the way you work)
For more information and booking details, visit www.coetzernaturephotography.com
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 103
Portfolio
I grew up with Africa’s amazing
sunrises and sunsets, but somewhere along the way I stopped really looking at them. Perhaps I was too focused on taking advantage of the golden light that each provided.
That was until one winter evening on the Chobe River a few years ago, when I suddenly realised that every other boat had stopped for its passengers to point their cameras at something. It soon dawned on me that the subject was a magnifi cent sunset.
I promised myself to never again take any sunrise or sunset for granted. Since then I have disciplined myself not only to chase the magic light that Africa’s sun provides, but also to stop and enjoy the beauty of sunrises and sunsets that are like none other in the world.
Research has found that the
relationship between territorially dominant hippo bulls and other bulls can be totally benign and even friendly, provided that the other bulls are subordinates.
When territorial fi ghts do occur they are, according to Mammals of the Southern African Sub-region, ‘ritualised frontal combats with splashing of water demarcating the boundary’.
I’m sure that’s fi ne if you are a hippo!
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Feature
Summer 2009 Travel Africa 105
BENEFITS OF SUBSCRIBING INCLUDE: ■ Four issues per year (at the end of March, June, September and December)■ The only international magazine dedicated to African travel■ Inspirational stories, travel experiences and insights from some of the world’s
top travel writers and experts■ Practical, independent advice from experienced travellers■ Exceptional photography that brings the adventures to life■ Strong advertiser base – reputable companies to help you plan your travels.
An invaluable and comprehensive resource at your fi ngertips.■ Convenient delivery – Travel Africa is not widely available through newsagents,
so a subscription guarantees you’ll never miss an issue■ Savings on cover price■ Receive subscriber newsletters and special offers on merchandise
SUBSCRIBE!Afridisiac? If you have an interest in the world’s most exciting continent, we’ll deliver Travel Africa directly to you!
Delivery to: United Kingdom Rest of World
1 YEAR £ 15.00 £ 25.00
2 YEARS £ 28.00 £ 45.00
4 YEARS £ 50.00 £ 80.00
3 easy ways to receive Travel Africa. Which format is best for you?
2 ON THE APPThe ‘Travel Africa magazines’ app on the
iTunes Newsstand Store is ideal if you want to read your mag on an iPad or iPhone*. Each issue is displayed in Page view to replicate the print version, and a convenient Text view with adjustable font size for easy reading. Other titles in the Travel Africa stable are also available. Search for ‘Travel Africa magazines’. Free app. Issues priced individually. Subscribe for only £9.99 or $13.99 and enjoy open access to ALL available issues. * Not bundled with the print magazine.
1 IN PRINTHave each quarterly issue posted
through your door in the full glory of traditional glossy print. Ideal for easy handling, sharing and displaying.
3 DIGITAL E-MAGAZINEAvailable online exclusively through
ZINIO, this is ideal for reading the magazine on your PC (offl ine and online) or tablet device (iPad and Android). Subscription and single copy sales are offered.
www.zinio.com Search for ‘Travel Africa’UK store 1 year £ 7.95US store 1 year $12.79
See these and all other available issues online at
www.travelafricashop.com
BACK ISSUES
Order online at www.travelafricashop.comTel: +44 (0)1844 278883 Email: [email protected]
ISSUE 64, AUTUMN 2013
ISSUE 62, SPRING 2013
ISSUE 63, SUMMER 2013
ISSUE 61, WINTER 2012/3
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 105
@TravelAfricaMag
www.facebook. com/TA.magazines
Follow us…
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
■
■
■
■
■
■
■
106 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Follow the path of nature on Sibuya Game ReserveSibuya is a magnifi cent malaria-free game reserve
accessed solely by boat via the beautiful Kariega Estuary.Just 12 luxury en-suite tents, professional guides,
an abundance of game (45 species including the “Big Five”)and the splendour of the vistas will leave you saying
“Sibuya” – we will return
Reservations +27(0)46 [email protected] www.sibuya.co.za
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 107WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
108 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Thanks to its spectacular diversity, South Africa offers more holiday possibilities than any other nation on the continent. We asked Carrie Hampton, who has visited more than 200 safari lodges and dozens of beaches, to let us into the secrets of its best bush and beach destinations.
A ‘world in one country’, a ‘rainbow nation’ and ‘God’s land’ – these labels may be
clichés, but they’re well-worn with good reason. South Africa has almost every
kind of landscape, from wooded savannah to arid desertscapes, snow-sprinkled
mountains to sub-tropical forests. There are warm Indian Ocean coral reefs and cold
Atlantic whale breeding grounds. The South African people too, are fascinatingly diverse
in race, culture and language.
While the wildlife-watching opportunities here are fi rst class, it’s partly the
mesmerizing sway of the ocean that brings visitors fl ocking to this country at the tip of
Africa. Who isn’t going to feel relaxed with soft sand under their feet and a healthy dose
of sun on their back? Spending time at the beach after all those early morning game
drives in the nation’s many national parks and private game reserves is surely the perfect
way to end a South African holiday.
MADIKWE, LIMPOPOWithin sight of the Botswana
border and the twinkling lights of
Gaborone, the Madikwe Game Reserve
was created from scratch in 1991 with
a Noah’s Ark operation to translocate
game, including cheetahs and wild dogs.
It’s been a huge success. With numerous
private lodges, Madikwe is much more
aff ordable than the private reserves
around Kruger.
WELGEVONDEN, LIMPOPOWelgevonden Private Game
Reserve, in the rusty-red foothills of
the Waterberg Mountains, is three
hours’ drive north of Johannesburg. It’s
a malaria-free Big Five reseserve, with
small-scale accommodation including
private retreats and commercial safari
lodges with fully-inclusive prices in tune
with the local pocket. The surrounding
Waterberg valley contains many
hunting lodges.
KRUGER NATIONAL PARK & PRIVATE GAME RESERVES
This is classic safari country and one
of Africa’s top destinations for locals
and overseas visitors alike. Kruger has
more animal species than any other
African park, and over 500 species of
bird. Budget travellers can self-drive and
stay at public restcamps inside Kruger
Park. The adjoining reserves are dotted
with upmarket all-inclusive safari
lodges. There are literally hundreds of
options for game drives and bushwalks.
Wildlife sightings are better from a
purpose-designed safari vehicle with a
knowledgeable guide, but you will also
see big game aplenty by simply pottering
around Kruger in a hire car.
HLUHLUWE IMFOLOZI & PRIVATE GAME RESERVES OF KWAZULU NATAL
Hluhluwe Imfolozi is the jewel in the
crown of KZN’s public parks, renowned
for protecting its black and white rhinos.
Watch out for them on a self-drive
tour. You’ll fi nd rhinos in all the nearby
private game reserves too, such as 5-star
&Beyond Phinda and Thanda, and the
3-star & 4-star lodges in the Zululand
Rhino Reserve.
EASTERN CAPE GAME RESERVESThis is malaria-free wildlife
country, with a variety of private game
reserves in the wooded hills and bushy
valleys an hour or so inland from Port
Elizabeth. Addo Elephant National Park is
the public game reserve in the area. You
can guess from its name what you are
likely to see here!
GARDEN ROUTE RESERVES, WESTERN CAPE
Wildlife once roamed the coastal belt
of the Garden Route. Some private
landowners are now reintroducing
big game to the beautiful undulating
bushland around Mossel Bay and
other stretches of the Garden Route.
This is a fairly tame safari experience,
with the wildlife carefully managed
within relatively small estates, but the
surroundings are stunningly scenic.
KAROO SAFARI, WESTERN CAPEDrive for 2-3 hours from Cape
Town into the semi-arid Karoo – an
inland plateau of witches-hat peaks
and big-sky landscapes – and you can
safari in a private reserve. Some have
vast tracts of land in which lions roam
free, rather than being kept in fenced
sections, and many have the Big Five,
albeit in small numbers. It’s a fairly tame
but satisfying region.
KGALAGADI TRANSFRONTIER PARK
The Kalahari is known for its red sand
dunes, dry river beds and photogenic
gemsboks, jackals, birds of prey and
black-maned Kalahari lions. This vast
park, which extends far into Botswana, is
an important migration corridor.
1
24
5
6
7
83
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
NORTH WEST
LIMPOPO
WESTERN CAPE
Bloemfontein
Johannesburg
PretoriaSun City
Cape TownPort
Elizabeth
Kruger NP
Mapungubwe NP
Madikwe Game Reserve Pilanesberg Game Reserve
Kgalikgadi Transfrontier Park
Blyde River Canyon NP
Knysna
Greater St Lucia
Kosi Bay
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP
CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 109
Essential Africa
WELGEVONDENMADIKWE
CAPE TOWN TO CAPE POINT BEACHES
Head south from Cape Town to Cape
Point and you’ll fi nd many fabulous
beaches. Camps Bay and Clifton, close
to the city, attract beautiful people,
even though the Atlantic is freezing.
Further south, you can go horse riding
along the beautiful, long Noordhoek
beach, galloping through the shallows.
Fish Hoek on the False Bay coast is for
sandcastle building and safe swimming,
with shark spotters on duty. Kalk Bay has
delightful tidal pools and Muizenberg is
great for learning to surf.
LANGEBAAN LAGOON, WEST COAST
This enormous, azure lagoon has many
attractions, from shallow paddling in
bath-temperature water at Kraalbaai
in the West Coast National Park, to
challenging kite-surfi ng and hobie-cat
sailing at the seaside town of Langebaan.
CAPE VIDAL, KWAZULU NATALThis long sandy beach is great for
sunbathing and low-tide snorkelling.
It’s the conclusion of a drive through
the iSimangaliso Wetland Park World
Heritage Site, which gives you a bit
of sub-tropical bush and beach all in
one. Game reserves abound in the
surrounding area.
KENTON-ON-SEA, EASTERN CAPE
The Kariega River meets the sea at
Kenton, where you can relax on the
golden sand or venture into the Indian
Ocean. This holiday-home town only gets
busy when school’s out. Use it as your
beach base after visiting some Eastern
Cape game reserves.
JEFFREYS BAYJ-Bay’s legendary Supertubes Beach
has a 300m uninterrupted wave, considered
one of the world’s best right-hand surf
breaks. The long sands are always scattered
with surf dudes and bikini babes and there’s
a very chilled vibe.Temperatures average
19°C in winter and 25°C in summer.
PLETTENBERG BAY & KNYSNA, WESTERN CAPE
On the Garden Route, Plett has scenic
sunbathing and swimming beaches, plus
dolphin-and whalewatching boat trips.
Knysna is where the sea rushes through
a narrow gap in the cliff s known as The
Heads to form a wide, shallow lagoon, good
for boating and cruising.
1
2
3
4
6
5
1
2
3
456
7
6
1
2 3
4
5
8
Shark fi n, Kenton on Sea, Eastern Cape
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
110 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Flying around South Africa makes a lot of sense, especially when you realise it’s 1400km from Johannesburg to Cape Town (13 hours’ drive), and that’s not even the full width of the country. There are endless possible routes, so we’ve chosen three options with beach and bush in mind. These can be mixed and matched to suit your preferences, budget and timings.
EASEASTERTERN CN CAPEAPEEASEASE TERTERN CN CN CAPEAPEAPEASTEASTERNRNEAE
NATAATALNNNNAAATATAATALLKWAKWAZULZULU NU NAAKWAKWAKWAZULZULZULU NU NU NAAKK U U
NONORTHETHERN RN CAPCAPEENORN THERN CAPCAPCA E
NORRTH TH WESWESTTNORTHH WESSTSSSESS
FREE SE STATT EEFREE STATEE
LIMMPOPPOPOOIMMMPOPPOPPOPOOOMPMPLILILILII
GAUGAUTENTENGGGAUGAUAUTENNGG
BOTSWANA
NAMIBIA
SOSOSOSOUTUTTH H AFAFAFRRIR CACA
NANANAANA
A
NANANANA
TENTEN
NNAANANANNNAAABloemfontein
Durban
Johannesburg
PretoriaSun City
Cape TownPort
Elizabeth
East London
Kruger NP
Mapungubwe NP
Madikwe Game Reserve Pilanesberg Game Reserve
Kgalikgadi Transfrontier Park
Blyde River Canyon NP
KnysnaJeffrey’s Bay
Greater St Lucia Wetland NP
Kosi Bay
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP
CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP EASEASTERTERN CN CAPEAPEEASEASE TERTERN CN CN CAPEAPEAPEASTEASTERNRNEAE
NATAATALNNNNAAATATAATALLKWAKWAZULZULU NU NAAKWAKWAKWAZULZULZULU NU NU NAAKK U U
NONORTHETHERN RN CAPCAPEENORN THERN CAPCAPCA E
NORRTH TH WESWESTTNORTHH WESSTSSSESS
FREE SE STATT EEFREE STATEE
LIMMPOPPOPOOIMMMPOPPOPPOPOOOMPMPLILILILII
GAUGAUTENTENGGGAUGAUAUTENNGG
BOTSWANA
NAMIBIA
SOSOSOSOUTUTTH H AFAFAFRRIR CACA
NANANAANA
A
NANANANA
TENTEN
NNAANANANNNAAABloemfontein
Durban
Johannesburg
PretoriaSun City
Cape TownPort
Elizabeth
East London
Kruger NP
Mapungubwe NP
Madikwe Game Reserve Pilanesberg Game Reserve
Kgalikgadi Transfrontier Park
Blyde River Canyon NP
KnysnaJeffrey’s Bay
Greater St Lucia Wetland NP
Kosi Bay
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP
CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP EASEASTERTERN CN CAPEAPEEASEASE TERTERN CN CN CAPEAPEAPEASTEASTERNRNEAE
NATAATALNNNNAAATATAATALLKWAKWAZULZULU NU NAAKWAKWAKWAZULZULZULU NU NU NAAKK U U
NONORTHETHERN RN CAPCAPEENORN THERN CAPCAPCA E
NORRTH TH WESWESTTNORTHH WESSTSSSESS
FREE SE STATT EEFREE STATEE
LIMMPOPPOPOOIMMMPOPPOPPOPOOOMPMPLILILILII
GAUGAUTENTENGGGAUGAUAUTENNGG
BOTSWANA
NAMIBIA
SOSOSOSOUTUTTH H AFAFAFRRIR CACA
NANANAANA
A
NANANANA
TENTEN
NNAANANANNNAAABloemfontein
Durban
Johannesburg
PretoriaSun City
Cape TownPort
Elizabeth
East London
Kruger NP
Mapungubwe NP
Madikwe Game Reserve Pilanesberg Game Reserve
Kgalikgadi Transfrontier Park
Blyde River Canyon NP
KnysnaJeffrey’s Bay
Greater St Lucia Wetland NP
Kosi Bay
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NP
CederbergWilderness Area Karoo NP
Kruger National Park Lighthouse in Umhlanga, near Durban Cape Winelands
Days 1-4Fly from Johannesburg to Kruger National Park, to spend two nights at each of two different safari lodges. Being on safari can be exhausting: you get up very early for morning game drives and there’s barely enough time to scroll through your photographs and have a splash in the plunge pool or an afternoon snooze, between breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. Then off you go on the afternoon drive, which is immediately followed by dinner and bed. Before you know it, it’s 5.30am and time to do it all over again. But it’s worth it!
Days 5-7Fly from the nearest airport (or via Johannesburg) direct to Cape Town. Spend three nights in the Mother City, with a hire car or pre-arranged tours. You will want to relax after your safari, so grab a beach bag and head for the Cape beaches. This will take you on scenic routes with fantastic sightseeing potential.
Days 8-9The Cape Winelands has accommodation of every sort, often with magnifi cent mountain views and taxis to take you to restaurants and wine estates, so you can sample as much local wine and bubbly as you like. You should note that seven out of the Top 10 Eat Out Guide Best South African Restaurants are in the Winelands, so book as far in advance as possible!
Day 10Catch a return fl ight out of Cape Town, either direct or via Johannesburg.
Days 1-3 Pick up a hire car in Johannesburg and drive to Kruger National Park. Self-drive around the park, staying at pre-booked restcamps. Take some guided walks and night drives with park rangers. Spend your last night in the far south of the park.
Days 4-8Exit Kruger Park from Malelane Gate and drive to Swaziland, less than 50km south. Enter via the Matsamo/Jeppes Reef border post and hug the scenic west, leading to the cultural heart of Ezulwini Valley. Nearby is Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, a restful place to unwind. Then head east to Mkhaya, where you can track rhino on foot.
Day 9Exit Swaziland at Golela/Lavumisa in the south and within minutes you’ll see Lake Jozini. A boat trip may reveal warthogs, buffalos, antelopes and even elephants grazing the banks.
Day 10Visit Hluhluwe Umfolozi Park. The camps in this Big Five reserve are comfortable and affordable.
Day 11-12
Take a boat trip on the St Lucia estuary, looking for hippos, crocs and amazing birdlife. The next day, drive through the iSimangaliso Wetland Park to Cape Vidal beach for some sun and snorkelling, staying overnight in St Lucia town.
Day 13-14Drive to Durban and settle into a seaview hotel. Dip into the warm Indian Ocean, enjoy the sub-tropical sunshine and tuck into a curry. To extend your trip, you fl y to Cape Town for a few days.
Days 1-4From Johannesburg, take a 4½ hour transfer to Madikwe Game Reserve, or, better still, fl y there. Spend two nights at each of two different safari lodges and see if you can clock up a rare wild dog sighting.
Days 5-7Transfer to Pretoria and make your way to the private Rovos Rail train station. Board the most luxurious train in the world for a leisurely two-night journey to Cape Town. The Rovos Rail train has exceptionally spacious cabins, with king-size beds and free-standing baths. Once aboard, everything is complimentary including South African bubbly and exquisite cuisine. Don’t forget to dress for dinner: for gents, that means a jacket and tie.
Day 8The most exciting way to take in the sights of Cape Town is from a helicopter. There are many operators in the V&A Waterfront. You can do anything from a 15-minute Table Mountain fl ip to a full hour down to Cape Point and back. Once you’ve enjoyed the ride, head to the swish beach suburbs of Camps Bay and Clifton for some ‘me time’ on the sands, followed by sundowners at a cocktail bar on the shore.
Days 9-10Cape Town has some of Africa’s fi nest wineries right on the doorstep. Spend a couple of nights in a luxurious Winelands guest house, dining at one of South Africa’s top restaurants in Stellenbosch or Franschhoek.
14-day Supreme Self-Drive Safari Kruger >> Swaziland >> Hluhluwe Umfolozi >> St Lucia >> Durban
10-day Kruger to Cape TownKruger >> Cape Town >> Winelands
10-day Luxury Beach and Bush SafariMadikwe >> Rovos Rail >> Cape Town >> Winelands
Plan your trip
Kosi BaKosi BaKosi Ba
Blyde River Canyon NPBlyde River Canyon NPBlyde River Canyon NP Blyde River Canyon NP
Kosi Ba
Greater St Lucia
uKahlamba-Drakensberg NPuKahlamba-Drakensberg NP
Pilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game ReservePilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game Pilanesberg Game Reserve
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Essential Africa
LanguageEnglish is the offi cial language of commerce and politics, but South Africa has a total of 11 offi cial languages. Zulu is the most widely spoken African language, then Xhosa, followed by Afrikaans and English as a fi rst language. Most South Africans speak more than one language.
Time zoneGMT +2
International dialling code+27
VisasNot required by most foreign nationals.
HealthIf coming from a yellow fever risk area you may need to show proof of yellow fever vaccination. Malaria occurs in the more northern and eastern parts of South Africa, so precautions may be necessary. The tap water is usually potable.
MoneyThe currency is South African rand (ZAR). Exchange rates have been very variable and 2013 alone saw large fl uctuations. At the time of writing the exchange rate is around £1=R17, $1=R10 and €1=R14. With the rand weak, South Africa offers great value at the moment.
Getting thereThere are direct fl ights from most major cities to Johannesburg and Cape Town. SAA is the national carrier.
■ There’s no bad time to go on safari, but it helps to understand the
weather. There are distinctly different rainfall and humidity patterns
across the country from the northeast to the southwest.
All but the Western and Eastern Cape game reserves are situated
in summer rainfall areas, which get hot and humid from December to
March. The more it rains, the more the bush grows; wildlife scatters and
becomes harder to see.
In Cape Town, it’s warm and dry at this time of year – just right for
a summer holiday. Sometimes, the strong southeast summer wind
can play havoc with your plans to spend a day by the sea, but Table
Mountain forms a wind break, so you just have to go to the sheltered
side to fi nd a wind-free beach.
In winter (from July to September) the bush is dry and animals
gather at waterholes. Days are warm and nights are cool. Cape Town,
on the other hand, battens down its hatches for cold winter storms
interspersed with bright sunny days.
The Eastern Cape has scattered rainfall
throughout the year, with a beautifully
moderate climate and good beach
weather all year round. The
beaches of KwaZulu Natal
in the east of the country
are far enough north to
get hot in summer and
are most pleasant
to visit in the spring
and autumn.
Getting aroundSelf-drive is a popular way to travel. A 4WD is not always necessary. Flying between centres makes the huge distances more manageable. Domestic airlines include SAA, Airlink, Kulula and Comair.
CostsPrivate game lodges tend to be costly, with all-inclusive rates covering accommodation, meals, drinks, game drives and guided walks. There’s also an abundance of excellent guest houses, self-catering options, hotels and backpackers.
SafetyWhile South Africa has a reputation for crime, it’s unlikely that visitors will encounter any. Follow usual precautions like checking your route before setting off, keeping car doors locked, not fl aunting cameras and jewellery when walking in the city, and keeping handbags safe.
BooksRoad Tripping South Africa (Map Studio, February 2014) gives self-drive routes throughout South Africa, with recommended activities.
Recommended guidebooksSouth Africa (Rough Guides, 2012)South Africa, Lesotho and Swaziland (Lonely Planet, 2012),First-Time Africa (Rough Guides, 2011)
Find out moreSouth African Tourism www.southafrica.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Strictly come dancing
MIC
HAE
L AN
D P
ATRI
CIA
FOG
DEN
/ G
ETTY
IMAG
ES
SOLVIN ZANKI / NATUREPL.COM
LocomotionAnimals have plenty of good reasons to get on the move. Finding food or a mate, defending their territory and
avoiding danger are among the most pressing. How they move depends on the specific problems raised by
their habitat, such as temperature, gravity, drag, inertia and other obstacles of physics. Nature has risen to the
challenge with a breathtaking variety of modifications and techniques – some of which are decidedly bizarre.
By Mike Unwin.
Mike Unwin is the author of 100 Bizarre Animals (Bradt), a fascinating compilation of often unbelievable facts about the world’s more obscure creatures, from which these examples are taken. Signed copies of the book are available from www.travelafricashop.com
112 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The wheel deal
Lily trotter
AFRI
PICS
.CO
M /
ALA
MY
MAD
AGAS
IKAR
A-VO
AKAJ
Y.O
RG
Sucker up
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 113
Wildfile
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
114 Travel Africa Winter 2014
THE STORY
THE CHALLENGE
The success of Lou Coetzer’s images of lions playing owes as much to foresight as it does to technical know-how. He explains.
Taken with a Nikon D800; Nikon 600mm f4.0 VR lens with 1.4 Converter; ISO 640, f8.0 at 1/4000 sec; EV - 1.3
In conjunction with Travel Africa, Lou Coetzer is running photography workshops in Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For details, visit
Lou CoetzerLou Coetzeris running is running is running photography workshops in workshops in workshops in Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For Oxford on March Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For 8 and 9, 2014. For 8 and 9, 2014. For details, visit .coetzernature
In conjunction with Travel Africa, Lou Coetzeris running photography workshops in
, Lou Coetzer
photography workshops in photography workshops in workshops in workshops in Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For details, visit
workshops in Oxford on March workshops in Oxford on March workshops in Oxford on March workshops in Oxford on March Oxford on March 8 and 9, 2014. For Oxford on March
details, visit
photography.com
8 and 9, 2014. For www.details, visit
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 115
StrapPhotoschool
THE SOLUTION
Telephoto tricks When
working with long lenses (400mm
plus), ensure you are shooting in the mid-to-high thousandths of a second.
To do this, choose the highest ISO setting on your camera that still renders a great digital fi le. This should allow for fast enough shutter speeds. Your choice of ISO will depend on the camera model. Make sure you set it in advance: there is never time to rectify your settings during the action.
Keep it clean The background and foreground of a wildlife photograph are just as important as the subject. The difference between this becoming a world-class image or being binned is the fact I repositioned myself to get a better background.
Up your game When you arrive at a scene with lots of drama, take a few quick shots so that you can record it. Then relax and consider repositioning yourself to get a better background, and to make better use of the angle of ambient light. A simple decision like that just might bag you a wonderful photograph.
EXTRA
TIP
Nikon D4, 600mm f/4 VR plus 1.4 ConverterISO 800, f8 @ 1/4000sec EV -1.7
This shot was an award-winning entry in the Mammal Behaviour category at Veolia Wildlife Photographer of the Year 2013
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
+256 772 712557+256 776 236699bookings@fl yuganda.comwww.fl yuganda.com
Daily fl ights to all Uganda’sNational Parks & same day
connections to the Serengeti
100%
Carbon Neutral
ISO 9001:2008
Certifi ed
She has made a successful career as an Interior Designer, an expert in African art, as organizer and hostess of exclusive Bush Trips, and as the author of the very successful “BUSH FRIENDLY TIPS for girls (and guys”), currently in its second edition. Lisa’s appreciation and extensive knowledge of African tribal art, craft and textiles has resulted in her developing an art gallery: The Home Gallery. It is the go-to address for African Art Collectors and Art Lovers from across the globe when visiting Kenya. She has curated African art collections for various businesses and corporations such as Standard Bank Dubai, The Embassy of the United States of America in Nairobi and the head quarters of Coca-Cola, East, West and Central Africa.
Lisa Christoffersen is a Third generation Tanzanian Born - Danish origin, who grew up on the foothills of Mt. Kilimanjaro. In
1974 she moved to Denmark, but at the age of 22 she packed up 22 suitcases and bought a one-way ticket to Kenya. Since that fateful return home Lisa has crossed the continent and explored its every avenue, from business to the African bush.
CHRISTOFFERSENLISA
+ 254 722 703 [email protected]
..Lisa’s featured Artists...
CHRIS DEI
ANTHONY RUSSELL
SIMONMURIITHI
ALEXANDRA SPYRATOS
Lisa is a designer of hand painted African inspired Pashmina shawls, items worn by celebrities including Cameron Diaz, Jane Seymour, Rachel Weiss, Jessica Simpson and others.
NEW WEBSITE SOON TO GO LIVE
CONTACTS
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 117WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Like several other safari destinations, Zambia offers visitors diverse attractions and a great choice of facilities, many with specialist skills or locations. It is not surprising, therefore, that we are often asked to recommend itineraries or lodges. However these decisions can be very personal, and no one knows each business as well as the owners.
So to help you learn more about the services available in Zambia, we extended an open invitation to accommodation providers and tour operators to tell you, in their own words, what they have to offer you. The companies which responded have paid for the opportunity.
Winter 2013 Travel Africa 119WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
KaomaLimulunga
Mongu
Kazungula
Livingstone
Victoria Falls
Lake Kariba
Chirundu
LUSAKA
Mwinilunga
Solwezi
Ndola
Kitwe
120 Travel Africa Winter 2014
KAFUE NATIONAL PARKZambia’s largest park has recently begun to regain its reputation of 50 years ago, when it was the jewel in the country’s safari crown. Scale and variety are Kafue’s watchwords, with landscapes ranging from the wetlands of Busanga Plains in the north to the miombo woodland of the central districts and savannah of Nanzhila Plains to the South.
Game is not always as approachable as in South Luangwa, but all the key players are here, including huge buffalo herds and numerous lion prides, plus local specials such as cheetah and sable. Meanwhile the great Kafue River offers some fabulous exploration by boat.
LIUWA PLAIN With annual visitors coming only by the handful, this vast expanse of seasonally fl ooded grassland is one of Africa’s most remote and least known safari destinations. Those who make the trek, however, will fi nd a unique and genuine wilderness, carpeted in fl owers, alive with birds and home to the continent’s second largest wildebeest migration.
VICTORIA FALLS/LIVINGSTONEThis spectacular southwestern corner of Zambia has something for everybody. The 1.7km-wide cascade of Victoria Falls has been voted one of the world’s seven natural wonders. Upstream, nature lovers can enjoy hidden islands and abundant wildlife on the languid Zambezi; downstream, the turbulent gorges offer bungee jumping and whitewater rafting for thrill-seekers. Livingstone, synonymous with the great explorer, is steeped in both colonial history and local culture. With any number of places to stay, the visitor will fi nd the complete African experience.
LAKE KARIBAThis huge inland sea is Zambia’s biggest body of water and one of the world’s largest manmade lakes. Created by the rising waters of the Zambezi after the river was dammed in the 1950s, its tranquil vistas are crowned by the silhouettes of drowned trees and echo to the grunt of hippos. Today visitors can relax at lakeside resorts, fi sh for fi ghting tiger fi sh or cruise the wild shores in a houseboat in search of elephant and other game.
KASANKA / BANGWEULU Lake Bangweulu is far from Zambia’s main safari hubs but the surrounding wetlands are home to some true gems, with herds of black lechwe grazing to the watery horizon and rare shoebills lurking deep in the swamps. Kasanka National Park, a little to the south, hosts Africa’s largest mammal gathering – a six-million-strong roost of straw-coloured fruit bats – and is a top spot for the semi-aquatic sitatunga. This is not a mainstream safari, perhaps, but a real treat for serious wildlife afi cionados.
What is your number one Zambian destination? Every visitor has a favourite. Some return time and again to the big-hitters such as Luangwa, Kafue or Lower Zambezi. Others seek out more off-the-beaten-track destinations. Not that Zambia really has a beaten track. That’s the beauty of the country: something new to discover in every corner.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Isoka
Mpika
MfuweChipata
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 121
Safari planner
LOWER ZAMBEZI NATIONAL PARKFew corners of Africa can beat the Lower Zambezi for sheer scenic splendour. Just across the water from Zimbabwe’s famous Mana Pools, this beautiful national park is laid out among the statuesque winterthorns between the rugged escarpment and the mighty Zambezi river. Canoe past great pods of hippos, track lions through the riverbank thickets, or simply relax in one of several gorgeous lodges, enjoying a sundowner, as the elephants rumble past to quench their thirst.
NORTHERN WATERFALLS ROUTEThe Victoria Falls are not Zambia’s only spectacular cascade. A number of impressive waterfalls tumble over the gorges and escarpments of northern Zambia, from Lumangwe Falls, said to be home to a great snake spirit, to Kalambo Falls, which tumbles 221m towards the shores of Lake Tanganyika and is the second highest in Africa. With dozens of waterfalls to enjoy, plus a rich culture and wild landscapes, this little-known region offers true adventures to the enterprising traveller.
NORTH LUANGWA / LUAMBE NATIONAL PARKSThere is more to the Luangwa Valley than just ‘South Park’. North Luangwa National Park offers perhaps Zambia’s most untamed big-game experience, where visitors can track lions on foot and follow great buffalo herds far from any road. Game is skittish here, a legacy of past poaching, but the sense of wilderness is that much greater and the reintroduction of black rhinos adds a unique attraction. Luambe, between North and South parks, offers a delightful stretch of the Luangwa that you will share only with the hippos.
MUTINONDO WILDERNESSWest of the Luangwa Valley, over the Muchinga Escarpment, lies a very different landscape, where great ‘whalebacks’ of granite loom out of the dense miombo woodland, and giant mushrooms grow beside tumbling streams. Mutinondo Wilderness offers an alluring back-to-nature retreat, where visitors can hike a network of trails and discover there is more to Zambia’s fauna and fl ora than just big game safaris.
SOUTH LUANGWA NATIONAL PARKCrescent ox-bows heaving with hippos; carmine bee-eaters erupting from their sandbank in a blur of rose-pink wings; the alarm whistle of puku as a leopard pads through the moonlit ebony grove: the sights and sounds of South Luangwa are among Africa’s most evocative. From swanky riverside lodge to rustic bush camp, Zambia’s best-known park offers visitors a safari experience that competes with any on the continent. Don’t miss the night drives or walking safaris.
LanguageEnglish is the offi cial language. There are seven main vernacular languages and over 60 other dialects.
Time zoneGMT+2
International dialling code+260
VisasVisas are needed for most visitors to Zambia. They are available from Zambian embassies abroad or at Lusaka Airport and other points of entry. Single-/double-entry visas for most nationalities cost US$50/80 respectively.
When to visit Zambia’s dry season is May to November or December. The rains arrive last in the south of the country.
HealthNo immunisations are required by law for entry into Zambia, although it is wise to have up-to-date vaccinations against tetanus, polio, diphtheria and hepatitis A. Malaria occurs throughout Zambia, all year round, and prophylactic drugs are strongly recommended to all visitors.
MoneyThe unit of currency is the Kwacha (ZMW). Recent exchange rates were: UK£1=ZMW 8.89, US$1=ZMW 5.44 and €1=ZMW 7.43. Foreign currency (US dollars is best) can be changed into Kwacha at most banks. Visa and to a lesser extent MasterCard are accepted by many tourist hotels, and can also be used to draw local currency at ATMs in the major towns.
SafetyZambia is generally regarded to be very safe, with malaria forming by far the greatest threat to life and limb. As with any foreign travel, always check for the latest updates at the Foreign and Commonwealth Offi ce (www.fco.gov.uk).
Getting thereBritish Airways (www.ba.com), Kenya Airways (www.kenya-airways.com), Emirates (www.emirates.com), Ethiopian Airlines (www.ethiopianairlines.com) and South African Airways (www.fl ysaa.com) link London and Lusaka via Nairobi, Dubai, Addis Ababa or Johannesburg/Cape Town.
Getting aroundOnce in Lusaka, internal fl ights can connect you to most major destinations in Zambia. Local buses are cheap and frequent. There are also luxury coach services.
BooksZambia (Bradt, 5th ed, 2011) by Chris McIntyre is a detailed, comprehensive guide to Zambia and its national parks.
Find out moreZambia National Tourist Board (www.zambiatourism.com)
* The information and views expressed on the following pages of the Zambia Safari Planner are those of the participating companies, and do not necessarily refl ect the opinions of Gecko Publishing Ltd.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
122 Travel Africa Winter 2014
STANLEY SAFARI LODGE LIVINGSTONESet on a hill bordering the
Mosi-oa-Tunya National Park
and overlooking unspoilt bush,
Stanley Safari Lodge is only
3km from Victoria Falls. The
views of the mighty Zambezi are
splendid, especially at sunset,
with the spray of the falls in the
distance. Open all year, we have
ten individually designed suites
and cottages.
LUANGWA SAFARI HOUSESOUTH LUANGWAThis impressive private
house for up to eight guests
sits gracefully on the edge of
a lagoon system frequented
by large herds of elephants,
impalas and giraff es. Countless
other species use the lagoon
as a source of water and food
throughout the year. It’s
magnifi cently set off by the
backdrop of the Chindeni Hills.
TENA TENASOUTH LUANGWASituated in the exclusive Nsefu
Sector, this six-tented bush
camp nestles on a double-tiered
river bank under a magnifi cent
grove of mahogany trees. Each
tent enjoys river views. The
camp is an authentic, seasonal
home, with spacious but
cosy rooms. Being small and
remote, we have wonderful
wildlife sightings to ourselves.
May-Oct.
LUANGWA RIVER CAMPSOUTH LUANGWAThis luxurious ten-bed camp is
situated opposite the game-rich
Luangwa Wafwa in the Upper
Lupande. Unlike anything else in
the Luangwa Valley, it combines
all the creature comforts of a
fi ve-star lodge with the intimacy,
tailored activities and fl exible
mealtimes you can expect from a
bush camp. Open Jan-Nov.
NKWALI CAMPSOUTH LUANGWANkwali Camp overlooks the
Luangwa River in superb game
viewing country, with beautiful
ebony woodlands and open grass
plains. There is accommodation
for 12 guests in cool and
spacious en-suite chalets made
of thatch and woven bamboo,
with excellent views of the
river. Elephants often cross the
Luangwa, seen from the bar, or
come to the waterhole near the
thatched dining room. Open all
year.
NSEFUSOUTH LUANGWANsefu was Zambia’s fi rst
photographic safari camp.
Situated in the heart of the
undeveloped Nsefu sector of
South Luangwa National Park, it
off ers remoteness and seclusion.
Each room has a clear view of the
river. The bar, tucked in beside
a huge extinct termite mound,
overlooks a waterhole that is
popular with game, especially
leopard. Open Jan - March and
May - Oct.
ROBIN’S HOUSESOUTH LUANGWAThis private luxury house on the
banks of the Luangwa River is
ideal for families, honeymooners
and guests looking for privacy. It
has great views of the river and
the animals that come to drink.
A grove of mahogany and ebony
trees shade the front of the house
and provide a perfect lunch site.
There are two en-suite bedrooms,
a main area and a private chef,
valet and guide. Open all year.
LUANGWA BUSH CAMPINGSOUTH LUANGWAThis is an exclusive experience:
walking with the best of guides,
dipping deeper into the bush
from the fi xed camps by camping
out for a couple of nights, dinner
and stories around the fi re, simple
but delicious food. It’s simple
camping, with a touch of comfort.
The walking is in one of the most
lagoon-rich areas of the Luangwa
and the game is superb.
ROBIN POPE SAFARIS’ MOBILE WALKING SAFARISSOUTH LUANGWAThis has long been known as
the best wilderness experience
of the South Luangwa. You’ll
visit remote terrain and varied
habitats, and may well see rare
species. From ants to buff alo,
a bird’s nest to tracking a lion,
you will learn the many facets
of the bush. Nights are spent in
a comfortable, fully equipped
mobile camp. Jun-Oct.
COSTS: Per person per night (including Park costs), from:
including drinks and some activities
adults and 1 child
INFORMATION:
ROBIN POPE SAFARISVICTORIA FALLS AND SOUTH LUANGWA
goal: to give our guests an amazing African safari
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Safari Planner
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 123
with all transfers organised.
Small boat cruises, guided
birding, fi shing, island picnics
and guided town and market
tours can be arranged. Our local
staff (many of whom come from
the village where we are the only
employer) also take guests around
the village. They are proud to
show the Zambian way of life.
These walks fund the building of
the local pre-school.
Everyone coming to southern
Africa has to see Victoria Falls,
which is just 40 minutes away.
There is also an amazing variety of
activities on off er in Livingstone,
from helicopter fl ights to
whitewater rafting down the
world’s most exciting rapids, or
Our guests love the contrast of
arriving at Waterberry Lodge,
with its green lawns, after a
wildlife safari. It’s also a fantastic
place to unwind after a long
international fl ight. Just relax and
enjoy the view.
There are seven thatched
cottage rooms around the lawns, a
swimming pool, a central dining
area and an upstairs viewing
lounge. Hippos often come to
graze our lawns and swim in our
private dams.
Our wonderful local staff
include great chefs, guides and
household staff who are really
happy to look after you and
to share stories of life in rural
Zambia.
The Farmhouse is a spectacular
colonial style house, with a large,
shady veranda overlooking an
amazing infi nity pool that appears
to fl ow directly into the Zambezi.
The house has all the comforts
of home and more – including
a private chef, housekeepers,
gardeners and groundsmen. You’ll
be waited on hand and foot, with
activities all organised for you. It’s
absolutely perfect for families and
groups of friends.
When you arrive at
Waterberry Lodge or The
Farmhouse you’re briefed on
what you can do there, and also
what else you might like to do
around Livingstone. Make an
action plan and it gets booked,
swimming in the Devil’s Pool at
the top of the Falls.
We are also 30 minutes from
Livingstone and the international
airport, and within easy reach
of neighbouring Botswana,
Zimbabwe and Namibia.
COSTS: From US$295 per person per night for full board accommodation, airport transfers and a sunset cruise; US$157.50 per child aged 12 or under sharing a room
INFORMATION:www.riverfarmhouse.comwww.waterberrylodge.comreservations@waterberrylodge.com
WATERBERRY LODGE AND THE RIVER FARMHOUSEZAMBEZI
Waterberry Lodge is set in wonderful gardens and has a breathtaking location on the banks of the Zambezi. It’s perfectly peaceful and quiet, well away from the noise and bustle of Livingstone, with
just sounds of birds, animals and the river to enjoy.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
124 Travel Africa Winter 2014
SAFARI PAR EXCELLENCE LIVINGSTONE
We are an adventure activity company based
on the banks of the mighty Zambezi, a few kilometres upriver from Victoria Falls. We also offer accommodation in the Livingstone area.
their own magnifi cent view
of the Zambezi River from a
comfortably furnished veranda.
Decorated with rich, classical
fabrics, colourful kelims, leather
and cotton percale linen they
take luxury to the limits in the
Zambezi Valley. Our small yet
dedicated team will make you
feel at home from the moment
you arrive, whether you are out
on safari or in camp enjoying a
massage.
Land and water based
activities include game viewing,
canoe safaris, angling and a
variety of professional safari
workshops.
INFORMATION:[email protected]
Baines’ River Camp is a luxurious,
colonial style lodge with solid
structures as opposed to tents.
Our eight Explorer Suites and
the Baines’ Cottage command
SafPar off ers a little bit of
everything to suit all tastes and
budgets, from campsites to
5-star luxury. We also have a
huge variety of activities to off er,
anything from the adrenaline-
fuelled White Water Rafting (the
best one-day rafting in the world)
on the mighty Zambezi through
to a relaxing sunset cruise.
Our lodges are all in stunning
locations on the banks of the
BAINES’ RIVER CAMPLOWER ZAMBEZI
Baines’ River Camp is situated in the Lower Zambezi Valley
in Zambia’s Southern Province. Located within the eastern part of the Chiawa Game Management Area, on the northern bank of the Zambezi River, the camp boasts magnifi cent views across the broad expanse of this river, almost a kilometre wide at times, to the Unesco World Heritage site of Mana Pools in neighbouring Zimbabwe.
river. Zambezi Waterfront is
designed to appeal to the young,
adventurous traveller and of
course the young at heart! David
Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa
and Thorntree River Lodge are
designed for those wanting a bit
more luxury.
All of the lodges have river-
facing rooms and are based in
or very near Mosi-Oa-Tunya
National Park, so guests can do
some exciting game viewing.
Along with our own fl eet of
vehicles, including buses and 4x4
game-drive vehicles, we own and
operate the following activities:
White Water Rafting, Sunset
Cruises, Game Drives, Canoeing,
Victoria Falls Tours, Cultural
Tours, Elephant Back Safaris and
Lion Encounters.
With our extensive portfolio we
are a one-stop-shop to make both
the booking process and your stay
as smooth and easy as possible.
INFORMATION:[email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Safari Planner
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 125
THORNTREE RIVER LODGEOur lodge, the Home of the
Elephants, off ers intimate,
personalised service in a quiet
location right on the Zambezi
river. Each cottage has its own
veranda with river views.
Wildlife such as elephants,
hippos and plains game visit the
lodge on regular basis to graze.
There are two interactive
animal attractions within
walking distance of the lodge,
the Elephant Boma and the Lion
Boma.
COSTS:David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa from US$222 per person per night, bed and breakfast; Lady Livingstone from US$70 per person including park fees, snacks and drinks; Thorntree River Lodge from US$350 including meals and drinks
INFORMATION: www.thedavidlivingstone.comlodge@dlslandspa.comwww.thorntreeriverlodge.com
DAVID LIVINGSTONE SAFARI LODGE & SPA The David Livingstone has a
fantastic location on the Zambezi,
5km from Victoria Falls.
The lodge is unique in
structure, aesthetics & décor.
Our spacious bedrooms have
balconies overlooking the
Zambezi and our suites have
private jacuzzis. Our guests enjoy
highly personalised service.
We have a world-class, award-
winning spa on site.
LADY LIVINGSTONE RIVER CRUISER This upmarket, fi ve-star vessel
off ers river cruises with a
marimba band, a bar for local
wine, spirits and beverages and a
three-course snack menu.
We can also off er a
personalised historical
commentary, orientation and
explanation of animals and
birdlife by experienced and
attentive guides. The boat has
quality furnishings and facilities,
with three deck levels plus a quiet
open area at the front.
Our accommodation is among
the most luxurious in Zambia and
our location is remote and wild.
The camp takes its name from
Zambezi and the many ana trees
or winter thorns (Faidherbia
albida) that surround us. These
winter thorns drop yellow pods
which attract a wide variety of
animals which wander freely
within the camp. They include
elephants, which are always a
welcome sight.
Our game viewing deck gives
you the best view possible of the
wildlife which visits the river and
the fl ood plain. Raised wooden
walkways connect the deck to the
dining area and our generously
spaced, luxuriously appointed
tents.
Each of the tents has an indoor
and outdoor bathroom, a spacious
sitting area, two teak double beds
placed within one well-designed
mosquito net, sliding glass doors
opening onto a private deck
with a plunge pool and stunning
views. Our tents have 24-hour
battery power and plentiful hot
and cold fi ltered water.
In addition to the usual
amenities, we have a large
swimming pool for guests to cool
off , lounge and relax, enjoying
the local climate after the day’s
excursions. As a fi nal touch,
a guest favourite, our fi re-pit,
provides the perfect opportunity
to absorb the local sounds and
gaze at the stars in the crystal
clear expanse of the night sky.
Our game viewing activities
take place both on the water by
boat, and on the land by four-
wheel drive vehicles.
COSTS:US$650-US$850 per person per night all inclusive; special rates are available at certain times of year
INFORMATION:[email protected]
ANABEZI LUXURY TENTED CAMP LOWER ZAMBEZI
Anabezi is located on the banks of the Zambezi River at the lower end of the Lower Zambezi National Park. We have 11 luxurious, spacious tents on raised timber platforms. These are generously
spaced along the Zambezi riverbank at the edge of a ridge providing magnifi cent views of both the Zambezi River and Mushika River fl ood plain. Year-round grazing ensures spectacular wildlife-watching from the comfort of your tent!
DAVID LIVINGSTONE SAFARI LODGE & SPA, LADY LIVINGSTONE AND THORNTREE RIVER LODGEZAMBEZI
Situated on the Zambezi River, upstream from the spectacular Victoria Falls, we offer a luxury safari lodge and spa, David Livingstone, a triple-decker river cruiser, Lady Livingstone, and, in Mosi-oa-
Tunya National Park, an intimate lodge, Thorntree.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
126 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Our lodge, where luxury meets
the wild, is an award winning
destination that provides
fi ve-star comfort while still
allowing you to experience the
sights and sounds of Africa. We
pride ourselves in creating your
perfect personalised holiday,
tailoring your stay to make it an
unforgettable experience.
The lodge is spacious but
intimate and off ers the ultimate
in luxury and cuisine. It is
designed to let nature play a
ROYAL ZAMBEZI LODGE LOWER ZAMBEZI
Royal Zambezi Lodge has over three kilometres of river frontage
on the banks of the Zambezi, on the edge of the Lower Zambezi National Park, opposite the famous Mana Pools Reserve.
CHIAWA CAMP AND OLD MONDOROLOWER ZAMBEZI
Our camps are located in the heart of the Lower Zambezi
National Park, in prime game viewing areas with superb views and wildlife aplenty.
Chiawa is a winner of the Safari
Award for Best Camp in Africa and
Best Guiding Team in Africa. Both
Chiawa and Old Mondoro were
THE RIVER CLUBLOWER ZAMBEZI
The River Club overlooks a sweeping bend of the
Zambezi River, 26 km upstream from Victoria Falls. It combines Edwardian grace and charm with 21st century facilities and has superb river views. This is the place that Karen Blixen would have chosen if she had ever visited Victoria Falls.
top five finalists for Best Camp in
Southern Africa in 2011.
Both camps are owned and
operated by the Cumings family,
who pioneered safaris in the Lower
Zambezi. The conservation ethos
shared by the owners, guides and
staff ensures one of Africa’s top safari
experiences.
COSTS:US$500-US$1000 per person per night
INFORMATION:www.chiawa.com
Our lodge is for the discerning
traveller who wishes to see the
best of Africa, uncovering stories
and legends of the greatest
continent in the world.
Our international chef spoils
our guests with her tantalising
array of dishes. A three day stay is
encouraged.
INFORMATION:www.theriverclubzambia.comwww.africanfusiontravel.comcontact@africanfusiontravel.com
leading role. There is lots of space
for all to enjoy a unique, magical
stay.
Our Presidential Suites are
a fabulously romantic setting
for honeymoon couples, with
private plunge pools, copper
bath tubs and spacious lounges
and shady verandas overlooking
the river. While our customised
family suite works perfectly for
family holidays.
The varied selection of
activities is another great reason
to visit Royal – from spotting
lions and leopards on game
drives, to canoeing peacefully
down channels of the Zambezi, to
getting up close with nature on
bush walks.
Or you can simply choose to
do nothing at all except enjoy The
Royal Bush Spa or watch the vast
array of animals around the lodge.
There is something for everyone!
It is quick and easy to get
to Royal once in Zambia. Our
airstrip is just fi ve minutes from
the lodge, and we can organise
charters for you with Royal Air
Charters.
INFORMATION:[email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Safari Planner
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 127
Zambia has some of the last great
wilderness areas. South Luangwa
is known for its lions, leopards
and wild dogs as well as the
highest concentration of hippos
in Africa, all of which you can see
on foot and by open 4x4 vehicle.
We operate six camps in
diff erent areas of the South
Luangwa National Park. Luwi and
Nsolo are on the dry sand Luwi
two extravagant suites with butler
service and private plunge pools
on the banks of the Chongwe
River. Guests are aff orded the
unforgettable sight of elephants
as they peacefully wander through
the camp on an almost daily basis.
Chongwe River House is 1km
upstream on a private stretch of
the Chongwe River and Kasaka
River Lodge overlooks the mighty
Zambezi River.
We operate four camps in
diff erent areas of the Lower
Zambezi National Park.
Chongwe River Camp
lies on the confl uence of the
Chongwe and Zambezi Rivers,
opposite Mana Pools. Its eight
comfortable en-suite tents have
wonderful views. There are also
NORMAN CARR SAFARIS SOUTH LUANGWA
Norman Carr was the pioneer of walking safaris and
conservation through tourism. Today we continue his legacy and pride ourselves on having some of the best guides in the world to take you on an unforgettable safari adventure.
CHONGWE SAFARISLOWER ZAMBEZI
Chongwe Safaris is one of the oldest and most
reputable companies in the Lower Zambezi, established in 1996. Sister company to Norman Carr Safaris, Chongwe Safaris is proud to offer an award-winning formula of great service in one of the best locations in the Lower Zambezi.
River with nearby waterholes.
Kakuli, Mchenja and Chinzombo
are located right on the Luangwa
River with stunning views. Our
main camp, Kapani, is on the
Kapani Lagoon which attracts
elephants, hippos and giraff e at
all times of the year.
The ‘wildly luxurious’
Chinzombo Camp, our newest
addition, has been hailed as the
best camp in Zambia.
We partner with our sister
company, Chongwe Safaris in
the Lower Zambezi. A safari
with both of us is a journey,
an adventure and a chance to
create your own stories of your
encounters in the bush, switch
off from the world, be part of
our family for a time, feel the
ground beneath your feet and
the sounds of the animal calls in
the distance.
COSTS:US$295-US$950 per person per night, including accommodation, four meals a day, standard bar drinks, laundry, Mfuwe airport transfers and game viewing activities
INFORMATION:[email protected]
Tsika Island is situated in the
middle of the Zambezi, 35km
upstream of Chongwe River
Camp. The island has three,
unassuming chalets and is
completely private and exclusive
to Chongwe guests.
We off er an unmatched variety
of activities including day and
night drives, boat cruises, walking
safaris or our fl agship experience,
canoeing, which off ers you the
opportunity to view wildlife from
a more natural perspective.
COSTS:US$295-US$950 per person per night, including meals, drinks, laundry, Royal airport transfers and activities
INFORMATION:[email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
128 Travel Africa Winter 2014
lounge/dining area overlook the
game-rich fl ood plain. The chalets
have been built on raised wooden
platforms, and they are tastefully
decorated with African style and
charm. Additionally, there are two
luxury suites, with an upstairs
viewing verandah.
ISLAND BUSH CAMPIsland Bush Camp, the base for
our daily walking safaris, is in the
KAFUNTA RIVER LODGESituated near Mfuwe, the central
location of our classic safari lodge
allows us to explore vast areas of
the wildlife-rich South Luangwa
National Park, where you can
enjoy daily game viewing in open
vehicles as well as night drives.
Each of our eight luxury
private chalets and the main
cultural visit to Nakatindi village.
Children of all ages are welcome
in the two family houses.
SANCTUARY PUKU RIDGE CAMPSOUTH LUANGWALocation, location, location –
Sanctuary Puku Ridge Camp off ers
guests an authentic tented safari
experience in South Luangwa
National Park, one of Zambia’s
best areas for game viewing and
SANCTUARY SUSSI & CHUMALIVINGSTONESanctuary Sussi and Chuma is a
collection of air-conditioned tree
houses and two family houses, on
a quiet bend of the magnifi cent
Zambezi River. Our rates cover
six diff erent activities, including a
SANCTUARY RETREATS LIVINGSTONE & SOUTH LUANGWA
The Sanctuary Retreats portfolio of luxury safari
lodges bring the boutique experience to guests with the added promise of authenticity. Located in some of the most stunning locations, each property is completely individual in its design and operated around the philosophy of “Luxury, naturally”.
KAFUNTA SAFARIS SOUTH LUANGWA
Kafunta Safaris has been owner-run since 1998. We make
your dream safari come true. With unforgettable game viewing moments and personalised hosting in our lodge and bush camp, we bring you the essence of Africa. Zambia has been our home for 20 years – let us share our passion for Africa with you.
bird spotting. Endemic species
found here include Thornicroft’s
giraff e and Crawshay’s zebra.
SANCTUARY CHICHELE PRESIDENTIAL LODGESOUTH LUANGWAThis historic property was
originally built for Kenneth
Kaunda, the former Zambian
president, as his private retreat in
the 1970s. It’s an air-conditioned
lodge with the option of an
interconnecting room, perfect
for families. We have a dedicated
children’s programmme for kids
of all ages.
COSTS:Our rates include meals, drinks, park fees, laundry and activities
INFORMATION:[email protected]
far south of the park, a two-hour
drive from the Lodge, through
remote wilderness. It’s built from
natural, locally sourced materials.
Its chalets are set along the banks
of the Luangwa River, on stilts
that ensure safety from wild
animals and provide excellent
views of the river.
The camp off ers comfort in a
rustic setting. Each chalet has an
en suite bathroom, with running
water, fl ushing toilets and hot
bucket showers.
Fancy combining a stay at both
the Lodge and the Camp? Well,
you can - discount rates apply for
bookings of fi ve nights or more.
INFORMATION:www.luangwa.com/our-camps/[email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Safari Planner
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 129
Mwamba has just four chalets
made of reed and thatch with
open air bathrooms. Wildlife
roams freely through the camp.
We also off er adventurous
options such as spending the
night on a platform near the
river or in the plains, or going
fl y camping in a particularly
remote area of the park.
COSTS:From US$605 per person per nightINFORMATION:[email protected]
Kaingo Camp is on the bank
of the Luangwa River, with
six chalets overlooking the
river, while our little bush
camp Mwamba is set on the
meandering curve of the
Mwamba River. With hides
and some of the best guides
in southern Africa, Shenton
Safaris is the destination
of choice for professional
and amateur wildlife
photographers.
What we are most famous
for is our unique network
of photographic hides. Our
Hippo Hide has been used by
the BBC, National Geographic
and Discovery Channel. In
late August we set up our
Carmine Bee-Eater Hide which
off ers amazing photographic
opportunities, and our Last
Waterhole hide at Mwamba
becomes very active with
thirsty animals coming to drink
at the last available water in the
area.
We off er visits to the hides,
game drives and bush walks on
a daily basis.
Guests at Kaingo can enjoy
stunning river views from their
decks overhanging the river,
watching animals come down
to drink. More rustic and bushy,
SHENTON SAFARIS – KAINGO CAMP AND MWAMBA BUSH CAMPSOUTH LUANGWA
Our camps are located in the northern part of the South Luangwa National Park, in the prime game viewing area, far from all the other camps, with the territories of three large lion prides and a dozen leopards nearby.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
130 Travel Africa Winter 2014
lagoons. Here, you can have
great bushwalks with superb
game-viewing all to yourself.
Each camp has a unique
design and off ers high levels of
comfort and cuisine. We place
great emphasis on our guests
enjoying the best possible bush
experience and employ some of
Africa’s most knowledgeable and
experienced wildlife guides.
South Luangwa is the home
Mfuwe Lodge, our fl agship
property, is situated between
two oxbow lagoons, about
three kilometres from the park
entrance and convenient for
Mfuwe airport.
Our six small, intimate
seasonal bush camps are located
in the more remote south of
the park overlooking either the
main Luangwa River or sited
along tributary rivers and oxbow
Our location, 40km from the
main park gates, in an abundant
and pristine wildlife area, provides
an exclusive and authentic safari
experience, with exciting game
viewing from the doorstep.
Named due to the high density
of lions in the area, we also have
excellent leopard sightings and
there are plenty of other animals in
the vicinity, including wildebeest.
Our experienced guides off er
walks and game drives.
THE BUSHCAMP COMPANY SOUTH LUANGWA
Our properties can all be found in superb locations within
South Luangwa National Park, one of Africa’s premier wildlife sanctuaries, with beautiful scenery, varied habitats and high concentrations of wildlife.
LION CAMP SOUTH LUANGWA
Located deep inside South Luangwa National Park,
Lion Camp is situated on an oxbow lagoon, overlooking an open plain which teems with game. By night, the plain is a hunting ground for lions.
The camp is independent and
stylish, with personalised service
and attention to detail. We have
just nine canvas and thatch chalets
accommodating a maximum of
18 guests. Built on raised wooden
platforms, they are linked to each
other and the main area by a raised
wooden boardwalk. Each chalet
has either a four poster king-size
double bed or twin beds, and a
walk-in mosquito net. They are all
en suite with a shower and toilet,
and have private decks overlooking
the open plain in front.
Heart-pounding adventure and
a soul soothing escape. Thrilling
gameviewing in a spectacular
natural environment. Exhilarating
and conservative.It’s all part of the
concept of balance and harmony at
Lion Camp.
Due to accessibility we are
only open during the peak game
of the walking safari and we
off er ample opportunity to
explore pristine areas and view
big game on foot. As our motto
says, “From a vehicle you see
Africa. On foot you feel, hear
and smell Africa”.
South Luangwa is also
rightly famous as being one
of the very best places to see
leopards. All our camps off er
morning, afternoon and
night drives in open 4x4 drive
vehicles, to watch, and hopefully
photograph, these and other
predators in action.
COSTS: US$400-$600 per person per night
INFORMATION:[email protected]
viewing months, from 1 June to
31 October.
COSTS:We offer affordable rates.
INFORMATION:[email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Safari Planner
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 131
guide you on foot from camp
to camp, following the animal
footpaths.
On the clear Mwaleshi
stream, the honey pot of the
North Luangwa National Park,
is Mwaleshi Camp, a beautiful,
intimate seasonal retreat
with just 4 chalets sleeping a
maximum of 8 guests.
We are walking safari
specialists, with exceptional
Within the South Luangwa
National Park, on the west
bank of the Luangwa River, are
Tafi ka’s satellite camps, Chikoko
Trails (Chikoko Tree Camp and
Crocodile Camp), which are
only accessible on foot, with just
3 chalets per camp sleeping a
maximum of 6 guests. We can
REMOTE AFRICA SAFARISNORTH AND SOUTH LUANGWA
With 30 years of experience, we are a family-run operation
and the only local company with camps in both the North and South Luangwa National Parks. Our fl agship camp, Tafi ka Camp, overlooks a sweeping bend of the Luangwa River on the remote northern boundary of the South Luangwa National Park.
Luangwa National Park and
their experience allows them to
anticipate behaviour ahead of
time so as to position their guests
in the best place to get the most
from each sighting. They will
bring the park to life for you and
their encyclopedic knowledge
will astound you.
In camp, there are no set
meals or meal times. Our guests
can order what they’d like to eat,
Jess, Ade and Paolo are
always on hand to make sure
that your whole Zambian
experience is a fantastic one.
Their personal attention to
detail is one of the reasons
that guests return to this
exceptionally good value
safari camp.
Our safari guides have
an incredible feel for
the wildlife of the South
FLATDOGS CAMP SOUTH LUANGWA
Situated on the banks of the Luangwa
River looking right into the national park, Flatdogs has earned a great reputation with its unique style, friendly team and exceptional safari guides.
when they’d like to eat it. There’s
plenty to enjoy on our bistro-style
à la carte menu and daily specials.
As much as possible is made
from scratch, such as our our
bread, nachos, fi ery chilli sauce
and tangy pawpaw chutney.
Our staff , who are nearly all
from the local area, are always
delighted to chat about life in
rural Zambia or to discuss the
latest football scores!
COSTS:US$220-US$440 per person per night, including all meals, park fees and safari activities
INFORMATION:www.fl atdogscamp.cominfo@fl atdogscamp.com
guides. Uniquely, we also off er
microlighting and mountain
biking at Tafi ka.
Our game drive vehicles
each take a maximum of four
guests in two rows. We tailor
our activities to our guests’
requirements. Private guiding
with sole use of a vehicle can be
pre-booked if required. We also
operate our own C210 plane for
our guests’ convenience.
COSTS:Rates per person per night:
We offer a discount for stays of seven nights or more.
INFORMATION:www.remoteafrica.com [email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
woodland. This is an enchanting
spot for birdwatching, with
Pel’s fi shing owls present. Kafue
has more than 160 species of
mammals, including 21 antelope
species and a population of wild
dogs.
Our highly experienced guide,
Stephen Banda, specialises in
walking safaris and night drives.
A few miles away from
Konkamoya is the unforgettable
Konkamoya in the Nianja
language means ‘Follow the
wind.’
Our lodge has just four
luxurious safari tents that can
host up to eight guests, off ering
a close encounter with the true
wilderness of Kafue National
Park. The lodge is secluded,
peaceful and unfenced.
Itezhi Tezhi Lake covers
an area of 370 square km and
is surrounded by mopane
At Thornicroft you can explore
the ultimate destination for lions
and leopards on unforgettable
game drives with expert guides.
We have nine charming
en-suite chalets with river views.
Each can easily accommodate two
adults and a child.
The chalets are equipped with
double or twin beds draped with
mosquito nets. We have paid
special attention to the mattresses
THORNICROFT LODGE SOUTH LUANGWA
Thornicroft is a small intimate bush-style lodge in a
beautiful location on the banks of the Luangwa River, home to wallowing hippos and bathing elephants. We are less than ten minutes from the best wildlife-watching areas in the park.
KONKAMOYA LODGEKAFUE
Konkamoya is a boutique lodge in a beautiful
location on the Itezhi Tezhi lakeshore in Kafue National Park, a fi ve-hour drive from Victoria Falls and the capital, Lusaka.
and linen, but you will also
appreciate the private bathroom
(with a lovely hot walk-in shower),
as well as the verandah and the
huge windows with views that
might mean you’re on 24-hour
safari if you choose not to drop
your blinds!
There are also eight permanent
two-person dome tents with
shared bathroom facilities near
the lagoon that off er an excellent
opportunity to safari on a budget.
Enjoy morning, afternoon and
night safaris in our open 4x4s,
led by qualifi ed guides with an
exceptional in- depth knowledge
of the park.
Thornicroft is classically
simple, with scrumptious
food, and is perfect for couples,
families or groups looking for an
authentic safari experience in a
small lodge, at an aff ordable price.
experience of the Elephant
Orphanage Project.
The camp runs on solar
power, Wi-Fi is free and the staff
is local, although the owner
brings an unexpected Italian
touch, especially in the kitchen.
We can assist with safari
planning in the Kafue National
Park and transfers from or to
Livingstone, Lusaka, Ngoma
airstrip and the other lodges.
COSTS:US$350 per person per night; no single supplement; family rates available
INFORMATION:[email protected]@konkamoya.com
COSTS:From US$195 per person per night for food, game drives and accommodation in a river-view chalet; US$150 per person per night for food, game drives and accommodation in a tent
INFORMATION:[email protected]
132 Travel Africa Winter 2014 WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Safari Planner
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 133
WILDERNESS SAFARISZAMBEZI AND KAFUE
Wilderness Safaris is an ecotourism company
specialising in memorable wildlife experiences in some of the most remote and pristine areas in Africa. We are fi ercely committed to protecting Africa’s precious natural and cultural resources while sharing tourism’s benefi ts with its people.
KAFUE CAMPS & SAFARIS –MAYUKUYUKU BUSH CAMPKAFUE
Open all year, Mayukuyuku has a stunning location on the
Kafue River with rapids nearby. We have spectacular views over an island which is an Ila Chief Burial Ground.
Busanga Plains within the Kafue
National Park, one of the largest
in Africa.
Owing to its diverse
habitats, the Busanga Plains is
known to be perhaps the prime
wildlife-viewing destination
in the country. Here guests are
blessed with sightings of our
famous tree-climbing lions and
are also aff orded the amazing
opportunity of spotting game
In Zambia, we operate exciting
bush camps and lodges in Kafue
National Park and in the Victoria
Falls area.
Experiencing both areas gives
a fantastic all-round perspective
on the country’s fascinating
landscape and wildlife.
Shumba Camp and Busanga
Camp are located on the vast
Kafue, being highveld, has
species not seen in the busier
lowveld parks such as South
Luangwa and Lower Zambezi.
Unusually, we have both
plains game and thicket dwelling
game in the vicinity, and can
see zebras, reedbucks, cheetahs,
oribi, leopards, elephants, kudus,
bushbucks and duikers to name
but a few.
We stay open in January,
Our guests, who leave superb Trip
Advisor reviews and often keep
in touch on Facebook, regularly
comment on our fabulous guides
and staff . Our camp managers and
guides eat with our guests and are
always ready to discuss wildlife
and all things Zambian. This is a
99% Zambian-run operation.
We still have the luxury of
seldom seeing any other vehicles
on any game drives.
from a hot air balloon.
Our luxurious Toka Leya
Camp and The River Club are in
the Victoria Falls area.
They both overlook the
impressive Zambezi River. Not
only is the imposing and famous
Victoria Falls a must-see, but
thrilling adrenaline activities
and game viewing in the area
makes for a fantastic launch or
departure point to any safari.
COSTS:Per person per night, from:
Busanga Bush Camp US$799
Rates include meals, drinks, activities, laundry and park fees
INFORMATION:[email protected]
February and March when
many other camps in Zambia are
closed. Wild dog sightings can
be excellent! Lions are always
plentiful, too .
In the Kafue we work together
not against each other. We can
link with any other camps in the
park. You will traverse the park by
vehicle – very exciting! Just bear
in mind the park is huge –top to
bottom can be four days’ drive.
COSTS:
including park fees, activities, full board en-suite tented accommodation, laundry; no single supplement
INFORMATION:[email protected]
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
134 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Whatever your individual
interests and requirements, Safari
Consultants has the expertise
and desire to work with you
to build your perfect Zambia
safari itinerary. We believe that
planning and booking a specialist
safari holiday should be a fun and
energising experience. We have
always been a small company
off ering a very personal and
professional service, and we
genuinely care about the success of
every holiday we arrange.
We also off er you peace of
mind. Every booking is covered by
a full fi nancial guarantee through
our ATOL licence (No. 3783) and
ABTOT membership (No. 5246).
We are members of AITO (The
Association of Independent Tour
Operators) and feedback from our
clients can be seen on their website.
If you are considering a safari
in Zambia then we would love to
hear from you!
INFORMATION:[email protected]+44 (0)1787 888590
Aside from the majestic Victoria
Falls, Zambia is perhaps best
known for its walking safaris, and
there is certainly nowhere else
in Africa where so many good
walking options exist.
But which camp, company or
guide will be best for you?
Would you prefer a gentle
introduction to a walking safari,
with walking combined with
game drives and luxurious
accommodation, or are you an
experienced African adventurer
seeking an exclusive wilderness
and walking experience?
Do you enjoy a social
atmosphere in the evenings,
meeting other guests, or are you
seeking the solitude of the bush,
more content with the sound of
hippos snorting and the clash of
buff alo horns in the darkness?
We know the diff erences
between the areas in which
diff erent companies operate,
which operators off er the best
value for money, and who are the
really top safari guides that can
enhance your safari experience
from ‘good’ to ‘amazing’.
camping site with a few basic
amenities, and we haven’t
forgotten our roots. We still
provide a fabulous (and much
improved and upgraded)
camping location for those
wanting to get close to nature.
For self-drive travellers, Pioneer
Camp provides the perfect
stopover, where you can chat
about routes and experiences
with fellow self-drivers whilst
enjoying our comfortable
facilities and surroundings.
We also organise mobile
safaris, which take you well off
the beaten trail. We escort people
all over the country, on tailor-
made or suggested itineraries.
We have covered Zambia in depth
and we know it well.
COSTS:Miombo chalets US$155 per person per night, including return airport transfers, dinner, bed and breakfast
INFORMATION:[email protected]
Within easy reach of Lusaka,
which is 14km away, we are the
best option for those who wish
to stay near the airport or the
capital yet still feel as though they
are on safari.
We are the Gateway to
Zambia, the place where you
should begin or fi nish your safari.
Our lodge is built and
maintained to a very good
standard and our rates are
extremely reasonable.
Our eight Miombo chalets,
with private bathrooms
and terraces, off er a high
level of comfort, privacy and
beautiful views of the Zambian
countryside.
At the centre of Pioneer is an
open thatched bar/restaurant
or chitenge, open from 7am to
11pm each day. It’s the place to
exchange tales of adventure with
your fellow travellers. Breakfast,
lunch and dinner are served here.
Pioneer is well known for the
candlelit braai meals served in the
evenings – in particular our tasty
500g T-bones!
Pioneer was originally just a
PIONEER LODGE AND CAMP LUSAKA AND ZAMBIA-WIDE
Pioneer Lodge and Camp is the most relaxing property in the Lusaka area. We offer 14 thatched chalets, ranging in comfort from simple and stylish to luxurious, and a beautiful two-bedroom cottage,
each set within our 25 acres of gardens and miombo woodland. You can safely walk around the property, which is great for birding.
SAFARI CONSULTANTSZAMBIA-WIDE
Established in 1983, Safari Consultants is a leading specialist in tailor-made African safari holidays. We cover East and Southern Africa, offering a wide range of holiday options. However, we are especially known for our in-depth knowledge of ‘safari Africa’, and we are particularly passionate about Zambia because it offers such unspoilt and authentic safari experiences.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 Travel Africa 135
Safari plannerThe following is an index of all advertisers in this edition, with a cross-reference to the page on which their advertisement appears. If you would like to receive information from any of our advertisers, please contact them directly, saying that you saw their advert in this magazine. Alternatively, you can get further information about them by visiting our Safari Planner, at www.safariplanner.co.uk or via www.travelafricamag.com
UK OPERATORS
Africa Explorer 52
Alpha Travel 46
Bear Grylls Survival Academy 106
Drive Botswana 63
Ngoko Safaris 68
Outposts Travel Africa 68
AFRICAN OPERATORS
Africa Tourist Information 97
Alex Walker’s Serian 80
An African Anthology 16
Chameleon Holidays & Travel 97
Coetzer Nature Photography 22
Dry Season Safaris 107
Great Plains Conservation 82
Karibu Safari 96
Mad Bookings Inside Front Cover
Orion Hotels (Bushtops) 13
Out of Africa Photography 18
Pulse Africa 135
Rhino Africa Outside Back Cover
Robin Pope Safaris 52
SafariBookings.com 6
Sanctuary Retreats 32
Sun Destinations 68
The Responsible Safari Co. 50
Tourmaline Safaris 96
Wild Frontiers 44
World Air Travel & Tours 45
BOTSWANA
Botswana Tourism 2
Desert & Delta Safaris 4
Ker & Downey Safaris 66
Meno a Kwena 66
Muchenje Safari Lodge 66
Phakalane Golf Estate Hotel Resort 40
KENYA
Flamboyant 90
Kenya Comfort Hotel and Hotel Suites 90
Leopard Beach Resort & Spa 44
Porini Camps 90
Saruni 88
Southern Sun Mayfair Nairobi 116
MADAGASCAR
Visit Mada Tours 117
MALAWI
Fisherman’s Rest 46
Game Haven Lodge 52
Malawian Style 47
Ulendo Travel Group 50
NAMIBIA
Namibia Wildlife Resorts 14
The Cardboard Box Travel Shop 96
The Mushara Collection 97
SOUTH AFRICA
Idube Game Reserve 32
Isibindi Africa 107
Lukimbi Safari Lodge 34
Madikwe Safari Lodge (More Hotels) 106
Sibuya Game Reserve & Tented Camps 107
Tau Game Lodge 32
TANZANIA
Asanja Africa 80
Eco Lodge Africa 45
Hotels and Lodges Tanzania 26-27
Kearsleys Travel & Tours 44
Lemala Kuria Hills 42
Mbalageti Serengeti 80
Oltipesi Fam Lodge 32
ZAMBIA
Stanley Safari Lodge 34
ZAMBIA SAFARI PLANNER
Anabezi Luxury Tented Camp 125
Baines’ River Camp 124
Chiawa Camp and Old Mondoro 126
Chongwe Safaris 127
David Livingstone Safari Lodge & Spa,
Lady Livingstone River Cruiser and
Thorntree River Lodge 125
Flatdogs Camp 131
Kafue Camps & Safaris –
Mayukuyuku Bush Camp 133
Kafunta Safaris 128
Konkamoya Lodge 132
Lion Camp 130
Norman Carr Safaris 127
Pioneer Lodge & Camps 134
Remote Africa Safaris 131
Robin Pope Safaris 122
Royal Zambezi Lodge 126
Safari Consultants 134
Safari Par Excellence 124
Sanctuary Retreats 128
Shenton Safaris – Kaingo Camp and
Mwamba Bush Camp 129
The Bushcamp Company 130
The River Club 126
Thornicroft Lodge 132
Waterberry Lodge and The River
Farmhouse 123
Wilderness Safaris 133
ZIMBABWE
Africa Albida Tourism 38
African Bush Camps 38
Come to Zimbabwe group 10-11
Musango Safari Camp 34
Wild Horizons 34
SELF DRIVE / OVERLAND
Avis Botswana Inside Back Cover
RSA 4x4 Products 88
AIRLINES
Fly Uganda 117
South African Airways 1
Ulendo Airlink 18
MISCELLANEOUS
ATTA 88
Discover Africa Show 118
ESBC 104
Lisa Christoffersen (African Art) 117
Swarovski UK 3
Contact us for exclusive tailor-made holidays to Africa and the Indian Ocean Islands.
UK tel: +44 1865 591097 SA tel: +27 11 325 2290 email: [email protected] www.pulseafrica.com
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
136 Travel Africa Winter 2014
Parting shot
Keep smilingThe best doctor will always encourage you to
smile, have fun and make someone happy.
Photograph by Manoj Shah / Getty Images.
For Dave.
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
So you want to seelions in the wild? What it’s like... and why they’re fi ghting for survival
FOR EXCEPTIONAL SUPPORTERS OF THE AFRICAN WILDLIFE FOUNDATION
Conservation lodges Q&A with AWF CEO Project updatesTackling wildlife traffi cking Advising South Sudan+
SpecialAWF issue
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
ne of the biggest
challenges wildlife faces
in Africa is the extremely
rapid pace at which the
continent is developing and changing.*
African Wildlife Foundation (AWF),
therefore, regularly evaluates and updates
its conservation strategies in order to stay
relevant and effective on the ground.
Since our founding, we have been
well positioned to help guide change to
ensure Africa’s incredible wildlife resource
remains secure.
Speaking of change, AWF is pleased
to announce a new partnership with Travel
Africa magazine. This will take the place of
our long-standing relationship with Africa
Geographic. As an exclusive donor benefi t,
you will now receive special AWF editions
of this fantastic publication—providing
you with in-depth updates on what your
donor dollars are doing for wildlife, as
well as fresh and engaging content on
conservation, travel, and issues impacting
the continent. Though it is a departure from
the past, we believe this new partnership
is a positive change that will ensure you
remain informed and inspired by Africa.
As you might deduce, Travel Africa
offers particularly interesting travel
coverage related to Africa’s landscapes. In
our premier issue, we have focused on that
“travel” theme and revisited some of the
many conservation lodges AWF has helped
communities establish over the years.
When done well, these lodges—many
of which are community owned—accrue
signifi cant benefi ts for people and wildlife
alike, and our main feature story on page 8
examines what those benefi ts look like.
Such projects help counter the illegal
wildlife trade by providing local residents
alternatives to poaching for income. The
war against illegal wildlife traffi cking is a
complex one, however, that necessitates
collaboration with a whole spectrum of
stakeholders. Page 4 offers the latest
updates on an issue previously considered
an African problem but now recognized as
a truly global challenge.
As these and other stories portray,
Africa is a dynamic continent—and it’s
thanks to you that AWF continues to
successfully address the changes and
challenges as they arise. Whether we are
investing in a new class of Conservation
Management Trainees (page 6) or working
to create a culture of conservation in the
new country of South Sudan (page 14),
your support is evident throughout this
issue and on the ground. As always, thank
you for your involvement in conserving the
wildlife and wild lands of this continent we
all love.
Editor / Publisher Craig [email protected]
Managing Director Iain Wallace
Business Development Sally [email protected]
Sales Manager Dave [email protected]
Publications Manager Phil [email protected]
Customer Services Sherry [email protected]
Art Director: AWF Lisa Duke
Designer: Travel Africa Mark [email protected]
Accounts Amanda Gaydon,Jodie Pratt, Tracy [email protected]
SubscriptionsCan be delivered directly to you in your most convenient format:
as a traditional printed magazine posted to your doorOrder from www.travelafricamag.com
as a digital fl ipbook for your PC, Mac or tablet, from www.zinio.com
as a digital fl ipbook and text format, with additional content, for iPad and iPhone via the ‘Travel Africa Magazines’ app on the iTunes App Store. * Note, the print and app editions of Travel Africa are not currently linked. Please choose your preferred option.
Copyright 2014 Gecko Publishing Ltd. No part of this magazine may be reproduced in any form or stored on a retrieval system without the prior permission of the publisher. While every effort is made to ensure that the contents of Travel Africa are accurate at the time of going to press, the publisher cannot accept responsibility for any errors that may appear, or for any consequence of using the information contained herein.
Chief Executive Offi cer Patrick J Bergin, Ph.D
Vice President for Philanthropy and Marketing Craig R Sholley
Director of Marketing and MembershipJohn W Butler, Jr
Senior Writer and Publications ManagerMayu Mishina
ContributorsMarie Frei, Kathleen Garrigan, Gayane Margaryan
Travel Africa AWF Supplement Winter 2014
* For more on development and other issues impacting Africa and AWF’s work there, check out the Q&A I did with our publications staff. You can fi nd it on pages 12 – 13.
TRAVEL AFRICA is published by Gecko Publishing ISSN 1561-2783
This edition, Winter 2014, published 1 January 2014.
Gecko Publishing Ltd, The Dovecote, Little BaldonOxford, OX44 9PU, United Kingdom
Tel: +44 (0)1844 278883, Fax: +44 (0)1844 278893 @TravelAfricamag www.facebook.com/TA.magazines
www.travelafricamag.com www.ta-emags.com www.safariplanner.co.uk www.geckomags.com
PATRICK J. BERGIN, PH.D.CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER
changeADAPTING TO
PHO
TO: C
RAIG
R. S
HO
LLEY
When done well, these lodges accrue signifi cant benefi ts for people and wildlife alike
AWF.ORG [email protected] Facebook.com/AfricanWildlifeFoundation
@AWF_Offi cial
Kenya: Ngong Rd, Karen, P O Box 310, 00502, Nairobi USA: 1400 Sixteenth St, N.W, Suite 120,
Washington, DC 20036
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 1
How your assistance is helping to drive conservation programs across AfricaWHAT’S INSIDE…
08CONSERVATION ENTERPRISESGETTING DOWN TO BUSINESSHow AWF’s investment in
conservation-based tourism
enterprises is paying dividends
for Africa’s wildlife and people
06CONSERVATION TRAINEES
Meet the new class of trainees now in the fi eld and
see how they’re already making a big difference
02NEWS ROUNDUPUpdates on our activities across Africa,
including projects to help the red colobus, rhinos,
elephants, and great apes, as well as AWF’s
efforts in the fi ght against poaching and illegal
wildlife traffi cking
YOUR SUPPORT REALLY HELPS
PLEASE VISIT AWF.ORG/DONATE
12Q&A WITH PATRICK BERGIN
Our CEO gives his take on the state of conservation
in Africa and AWF’s role going forward
14 SOUTH SUDANEXCITING OPPORTUNITIES
James Kahurananga, AWF’s technical advisor in South Sudan, offers an insider’s view on that country’s conservation potential, which includes Africa’s second-largest mammal migration
16WEB WATCH
WHAT’S HAPPENING See how technology is
allowing AWF supporters to
get close to some of Africa’s
most elusive creatures
MAR
TIN
HAR
VEY
FIAC
HRA
KEA
RNEY
JULI
E LA
RSEN
MAH
ER ©
WIL
DLI
FE C
ON
SERV
ATIO
N S
OCI
ETY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
The latest updates on our various projects across the continent
NEWS FROM
Protecting the red colobusAccording to the International Union for Conservation of Nature (or IUCN) Red List of
Threatened Species, the critically endangered Niger Delta red colobus monkey population
has declined by more than 80 percent in the past few decades. In Niger, AWF initially funded
a Niger Delta survey of the Nigeria–Cameroon chimpanzee by Nigerian researcher Rachel
Ashegbofe Ikemeh, who is also working to protect the Niger Delta red colobus. We have since
expanded our support for Ikemeh to create a conservation zone in the Idanre region of
Nigeria. Pictured here is the Ugandan red colobus.
For the fi rst time, everyday
Congolese are taking
an active role in the
conservation of their
country’s bonobos. In the
Congo landscape, AWF has
trained 50 people from
the Congolese wildlife
authority (Institut Congolais
pour la Conservation de la
Nature, or ICCN) and the
local community to use
CyberTracker technology
units to conduct ecological
monitoring in the
Lomako–Yokokala Faunal
Reserve. The trained
individuals walk the
reserve in groups of fi ve
to eight people, looking
for signs of wildlife and
recording their sightings
into the CyberTracker.
Previously only
ICCN ecoguards had
been allowed inside the
protected area. Now
that trained community
members are able to enter
to conduct the ecological
monitoring, AWF Congo
Landscape Director Charly
Facheux says they are
beginning to understand
more fully the value of
conservation and their role
in protecting wildlife. He
adds: “It is really wise to
work with them; they know
the geography very well.”
RAS
HID
KAN
YAO
AWF roundup
JEF
DU
PAIN
80% DECLINE OF
THE COLOBUS MONKEY
IN THE PAST FEW DECADES
Local ecological monitoring
2 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
MORE ROOM FOR ELEPHANTSIn Kilimanjaro, AWF signed another round of land lease agreements with 703 area landowners in July and August. These secured more than 7,000 acres of protected land for elephants in the region. AWF has now protected more than 25,000 acres of land in the Kilimanjaro landscape for wildlife.
Motorbikes for rhinos AWF has approved a grant for the Great Fish River Nature Reserve to purchase four new motorbikes to assist with its rhino protection efforts. The bikes replace older models.
CRAI
G R
. SH
OLL
EY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 3
For the latest news and updates on AWF activities, follow us on Facebook, Google+, Twitter or YouTube. Log on to awf.org and follow the links for social media.
CONSERVATION CELEBRATIONSAs part of the 50th anniversary of Kidepo Valley National Park, one of the protected areas targeted under the USAID/Uganda Tourism for Biodiversity Program, AWF and Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) honored 10 Ugandan women who have shown exemplary leadership in conservation, including Dr. Margaret Druciri (pictured), a wildlife veterinarian with UWA who rescues injured or orphaned wildlife. This new ‘Uganda Women in Conservation’ recognition aims to encourage female youth to take up careers in conservation.
Indulge the chocolate lover in you
while also supporting AWF: through its
GiveBack partnership program, premium
organic chocolate-maker Endangered
Species Chocolate (ESC) has given five
percent of its net profits to AWF since
2009. Donations from ESC have been
instrumental in underwriting our African
Apes Initiative to save Africa’s great ape
populations. They have also supported
some of our rhino and elephant anti-
poaching efforts. Last year, ESC donated
well over US$100,000 to AWF from its
chocolate sales.
To buy your ESC chocolate, visit awf.org/
chocolate
& THE WINNER IS...AWF recently closed its second Annual Safari Sweepstakes contest, and we’re happy to announce that Kathryn S. Reynolds, a Hawaii resident, is currently traveling to Tanzania as part of the AWF Serengeti Safari! Stay tuned to awf.org and upcoming issues to get the lowdown on her experience!
Chocolatey goodness
UG
AND
A W
ILD
LIFE
AU
THO
RITY
DAV
ID T
HO
MS
ON
BIL
LY D
OD
SO
N
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
4 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
FORMER U.S. DEFENSE ATTACHÉ CAUGHT TRAFFICKING IVORYOn the same day that U.S. President Barack Obama was in Tanzania pledging fi nancial and other support from the United States to combat wildlife traffi cking in Africa, former U.S. defense attaché David McNevin was caught at Kenya’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport transporting 21 pieces of carved elephant ivory and promptly arrested. McNevin pleaded guilty and paid a fi ne of Ksh 30,000 (about US$350).
In mid-November, the U.S.
government crushed its six
tons of confi scated ivory
to highlight the plight of
Africa’s elephants. AWF
took the opportunity to
urge other countries around
the world to follow suit and
destroy their own ivory
stockpiles. Furthermore,
with more than 35,000
African elephants killed
for their tusks every year,
AWF proposed all countries
implement immediate
domestic moratoria on
trade in ivory until all
elephant populations are
no longer threatened.
This new position by
AWF comes in response to
the changing situation on
the ground. “Right now,
Africa is hemorrhaging
elephants,” says
Bergin. “Elephant
carcasses—the ones
that are documented
—lie strewn in forests, on
savannas and in national
parks, and their stolen ivory
fl ows out of Africa’s airports
and seaports to illegal ivory
markets around the world.
The only way to staunch the
movement of illegal ivory
is to wipe out the demand,
and that begins with
destroying stockpiles and
stopping trade.”
Though a 1989 ban
on international trade in
ivory remains in place,
many countries—including
China and the United
States—allow raw and
worked ivory to be traded
domestically.
CRUSH ALL IVORY
This past October, AWF CEO Patrick Bergin (below, center) and seven other individuals were appointed to the U.S. Advisory Council on Wildlife Traffi cking, which will assist a Presidential Task Force in developing a national strategy for combating wildlife traffi cking. The appointments were announced during a White House event attended by former Secretary of State Hillary Clinton and Clinton Foundation Vice Chair Chelsea Clinton (left).
Bergin’s appointment is a testament to AWF’s record in African conservation. More importantly, it allows us to help guide U.S. policy decisions on Africa’s illegal wildlife traffi cking crisis.
AWF CEO APPOINTED TO PRESIDENTIAL ADVISORY COUNCIL
While promoting her ‘Hands off our Elephants’ campaign, Kenya’s fi rst lady, Margaret Kenyatta, traveled to Amboseli National Park and AWF’s Kilimanjaro landscape, where she met with representatives from several conservation groups, including Fiesta Warinwa, AWF’s country director for Kenya. “I explained to the fi rst lady about our efforts to secure corridors and wildlife dispersal areas, which are critical in maintaining connectivity of elephant habitat,” said Warinwa. “We also discussed poaching and land conversion as two of the main threats to elephants in this area. The fi rst lady promised to help in whatever way she could.”
TAM
I A. H
EILE
MAN
N/D
EPAR
TMEN
T O
F TH
E IN
TERI
OR
JAMIE COTTEN
SIX TONS OF CONFISCATED
IVORY CRUSHED
AWF roundup: Illegal wildlife traffi cking
KENYA’S FIRST LADY VISITS KILIMANJARO LANDSCAPE
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 5
In October, more than 100 elephants in Zimbabwe’s Hwange National Park were killed and their tusks stolen when their watering holes and salt licks were poisoned with industrial cyanide, often used in gold mining. (Some reports are putting the elephant death toll at closer to 300.)
“Though elephants may have been the target, poison is indiscriminate in who or what it kills. Lions, hyenas, vultures, kudus, and other wildlife, in addition to elephants, have fallen victim,” says
Philip Muruthi, senior director of conservation science at AWF.
Several arrests have been made in connection with the poisoning. Some of the poachers who were caught even received 15-year jail sentences. “Wildlife crime is not often seen as very serious and deserving of severe punishment, but these jail sentences are very high, which suggests the authorities in Zimbabwe are taking this tragedy very seriously,” says Jimmiel Mandima, AWF’s U.S. government liaison and
a Zimbabwe national. “Hwange is a huge area to monitor and protect. With limited staff and resources, I suspect park authorities were themselves taken by surprise.”
Reports suggest many of the poachers came from local villages near the park. This is one of the reasons why AWF works so closely with local communities: those with access to economic opportunities and other social benefi ts are less inclined to turn to poaching and more likely to help catch poachers and traffi ckers.
“When local people benefi t from living near wildlife, they will take ownership of and defend their natural resources,” said Muruthi.
HALTING DEMAND FOR RHINO HORNRhinos remain under assault, with South Africa’s Kruger National Park having lost nearly 1500 rhinos to poaching in the past five years. While supporting boots on the ground continues to be important in the fight to protect rhinos, ultimately demand in Asia for rhino horn must decline to stop the killing.
As part of their demand awareness campaign in Asia, AWF and partner
WildAid worked with artist Asher Jay to produce magazine ads that likened the African rhino and elephant to China’s beloved panda.
Commitments against poachingIn October, AWF CEO
Patrick Bergin joined other
conservation groups,
former Secretary of State
Hillary Clinton, Clinton
Foundation Vice Chair
Chelsea Clinton, and
several African heads of
state at the Clinton Global
Initiative Annual Meeting to
announce a Commitment
to Action to protect Africa’s
elephants. The individual
and combined efforts will
be aimed at stopping the
killing of elephants, the
traffi cking of ivory, and the
demand for ivory products.
“This is more than a
conservation issue. It’s a
security issue. It’s a poverty
issue. It’s a consumer
issue. For this reason,
many players—from
governments to the private
sector—must be involved,
too,” said Bergin.
ELEPHANTS POISONED IN ZIMBABWE
CIAR
AN W
HEE
LER
AS
HER
JAY
In the Republic of Guinea, wildlife traffi cker
Ousame Diallo was sentenced to a year in
prison—the most severe penalty allowed
under Guinean law for wildlife crime
offenders—following his arrest by local
authorities, whose actions were supported
by INTERPOL and a
local anti-wildlife
traffi cking group.
Diallo admitted
to traffi cking 500
endangered western
chimpanzees,
a subspecies of
chimpanzee found
in Guinea.
“The pet trade
is often overlooked
when we talk about the
global illegal wildlife
trade, but it is currently
devastating ape
populations across Africa,” said Jef Dupain,
director of AWF’s Great Apes Program, who
notes that the majority of the pet trade
demand comes from Asia.
AWF’s African Apes Initiative is
assisting wildlife authorities in Central and
West Africa to increase monitoring and
protection of these at-risk primates.
Justice served?
MAR
TIN
HAR
VEY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Diffi cult dilemma
f
T
6 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
Above: AWF’s second class of Conservation Management Trainees—Edwin Tambara (second from left), Sarah Chiles, and Yohannes Seifu, pictured with Samburu Landscape coordinator Benson Lengalen (far left)—spent their fi rst three months getting an intensive course in AWF’s conservation philosophies and landscapes
PHOTO: EDWIN TAMBARA
New Conservation Management Trainees are eager to learn the ins and outs of conservation from AWF experts
class
IF YOU WANT TO LEARN ABOUT HOW PRACTICAL CONSERVATION IS ACHIEVED, THEN
YOU SHOULD APPLY FOR CMTP
EDWIN TAMBARA CMTP CLASS OF 2015
MEET THE NEW
Conservation management training
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
THEO WAY NANADuring his first nine months of
fieldwork, Theo Way Nana, an
environmental lawyer from the
Democratic Republic of Congo and
former Congo landscape community
officer for AWF, was based in the
Samburu landscape.
Here, he developed land-use
plans for Kirimon Group Ranch,
which allowed him to use his
environmental law expertise
to support implementation of
participatory forest management
plans. He facilitated several meetings
with community representatives to
explain the importance of land-
use planning, obtain their views
about the process, and develop an
overarching action plan.
From Nana’s current base in
Lake Mburo, Uganda, he will spend
a second nine-month placement
supporting the implementation
of the USAID/Uganda Tourism for
Biodiversity program.
“In Samburu, I was working
mainly in existing conservancies.
In Uganda, I am working for
the establishment of new
conservancies,” Nana reports.
“Both experiences are
demonstrating to me how
committed AWF really is to
building the capacity of Africans
in conservation by empowering
community and local organizations
to take over the responsibility and
leadership of conservation in their
land areas,” says Nana.
CATCHING UP WITH THE
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 7
2nd phase
Marie Frei
first classAfter a full year of training and field experience, the first round of AWF Conservation Management Trainees has already amassed a wealth of experience.
GEORGE OKWAROTrainee George Okwaro most recently supported the Mau reforestation project
in Kenya’s Rift Valley under the direction of AWF’s technical directors of climate
change and science. “I now perceive conservation with a holistic, viable, systems
approach and better understand the complexity and the dynamics within and
among the different groups of biomes in the landscape,” he says.
In August, Okwaro transitioned from CMTP trainee to full-time AWF employee.
In his new capacity as
program officer, Mau Forest,
he is responsible for the
implementation of the forest
conservation program in this
ecosystem and continues to
engage in other forestry and
climate change work within the
organization.
His promotion provides a
perfect example of how AWF
envisions CMTP working, where
AWF develops high-potential
future conservation leaders
and looks for opportunities
for them to contribute to
both our organization and to
conservation over the long term.
EDW
IN T
AMB
ARA
PETE
R CH
IRA
To learn more, visit
awf.org/cmtp
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
8 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
AWF’s investment in conservation-based tourism enterprises pays dividends for Africa’s wildlife and people.
GETTING DOWN TO BUSINESS &
Elerai enterprise
saving wildlife
Satao Elerai Camp, set in the foothills of Kilimanjaro, is a flagship AWF-facilitated enterprise that has conserved some 5,000 acres of land for wildlife while providing substantial income for the local community
Conservation enterprise
PHIL
IP M
URU
THI
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Machenje Fishing Lodge opened in August to take advantage of tourism opportunities from sport fishing
and provide much-needed income to the people of the Sekute Chiefdom. Locals understand the
lodge was established by AWF in return for elephant conservation efforts.
According to a World Bank report, tourism is one of the largest and fastest-growing
sectors of the world economy
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 9
Gathering steam
ALIS
ON
LAN
GEV
AD
PERR
IN B
ANKS
AWF has found that the establishment of conservation lodges has helped protect key
wildlife species. In Uganda, for example, the Bwindi mountain gorilla population has
increased since Clouds Mountain Gorilla Lodge opened for business in 2008
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
10 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
Measuring success
From Day One, Elerai Group Ranch has received income—approximately US$300,000 to date
When communities benefit from wildlife tourism, they will engage in conservation to protect wildlife
MAN
YARA
RAN
CH C
ON
SERV
ANCY
PERR
IN B
ANKS
Manyara Ranch Tented Camp
Ngoma Safari Lodge
Conservation enterprise
MAR
TIN
HAR
VEY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
1 MOUNTAIN GORILLAClouds Mountain
Gorilla Lodge opened
outside of Uganda’s Bwindi
Impenetrable National Park
in 2008, providing income to
the Nkuringo community. The
2011 census of mountain
gorillas in Bwindi found at
least 400 individuals, up
from 302 in 2005. Current
numbers of the mountain
gorilla population in the
nearby Virunga Massif add
another 480, putting the
total world population of
mountain gorillas at 880…
and growing!
2 GREATER KUDUAn AWF survey using
geographic information
systems (or GIS) found that
between 2002 and 2011,
community settlements
and infrastructure had
increased in many parts of
northern Kenya’s Samburu
landscape—but not in the
conservation area agreed
upon between AWF and the
local Maasai community,
ensuring protection for
wildlife such as the greater
kudu (below). The Sanctuary
at Ol Lentille, another AWF
conservation enterprise
project, opened in 2007.
3 ELEPHANTThough elephant
numbers in some parts of
Africa are declining as a
result of rampant elephant
poaching, one region where
a signifi cant elephant
population still exists is
in northern Botswana.
Here, to provide sanctuary
for elephants outside of
Chobe National Park, AWF
worked with the 7,000
members of the Chobe
enclave to establish Ngoma
Safari Lodge. The Chobe
community, in turn, set aside
a portion of their land for
conservation.
4 WILD DOGOnce an overgrazed
government-owned ranch,
Manyara Ranch Conservancy
has rebounded as an
important wildlife corridor
between Lake Manyara and
Tarangire National Parks.
Since Manyara Ranch Tented
Camp opened its tent fl aps
on conservancy grounds,
elephants, lions, giraffe, and
other wildlife have returned.
The most recent arrivals:
endangered wild dogs
(above), spotted
after many years
of disappearance
from the
conservancy!
Kathleen Garrigan
Fancy visiting one of these conservation lodges?
www.awf.org/safari
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 11
CONSERVATION ENTERPRISE + COMMUNITIES = WILDLIFEAWF’s conservation tourism enterprises have not only benefi ted people, but also an array of wildlife across Africa.
PHIL PERRY WILDLIFE PHOTOGRAPHY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
12 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
We ask AWF CEO Patrick Bergin for his take on the state of conservation in Africa and AWF’s role going forward.
A SITDOWN WITH THE How would you characterize how AWF is doing?
What would you say to those who feel like the poaching
situation has become hopeless?
AWF CEO Patrick Bergin believes that, given Africa’s considerable size, it should be possible for the continent to modernize but still maintain pristine areas for nature and wildlife.
Q&A
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 13
As a wildlife organization, how can we think that we can do
education well?
Anything else you’d like our supporters to know?
Isn’t that a bit like developed countries telling developing
countries, “Don’t do as we did”?
What would you say was AWF’s biggest
success last year?
Get more opinion on conservation issues on our blogs page:
awf.org/blog
Africa is modernizing rapidly. What do you see as AWF’s role
in such an environment?
WITH VISION AND POLITICAL
WILL, IT SHOULD BE POSSIBLE FOR AFRICA TO HAVE
ITS CAKE AND EAT IT TOO
PATRICK BERGINAWF CEO
MAI
N P
HO
TO: M
ARTI
N H
ARVE
Y
IN
SET:
JULI
E LA
RSEN
MAH
ER ©
WIL
DLI
FE C
ON
SERV
ATIO
N S
OCI
ETY
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
14 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
Former Maasai Steppe Director James Kahurananga, now an AWF technical advisor for South Sudan’s Ministry of Wildlife Conservation and Tourism, offers an insider’s perspective on the country’s conservation potential.
south sudan
new country faces any number of challenges, and for the Republic of South Sudan, that includes determining how best
to manage its abundance of natural resources. At the request of the government, AWF
is assisting South Sudan in establishing appropriate policies that will help protect its natural resources. Since March, former Maasai Steppe Director James Kahurananga has been working in Juba as the AWF technical advisor for the Ministry of Wildlife Conservation and Tourism.
We asked Kahurananga about the country’s conservation potential.
ADVISING
New frontiers
What is the state of South Sudan’s wildlife and ecosystems?
In your view, what are the biggest priorities for the Ministry?
What is the strongest threat to conservation in South Sudan?
What does your role as technical advisor to the Ministry of Wildlife
Conservation and Tourism entail?
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Winter 2014 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section 15
South Sudan is still such a new nation. Why is it important for
AWF to get involved right now?
What are the greatest overall challenges that the South
Sudanese government faces? Where does conservation fi t into broader governmental concerns?
What do you think it will take to establish a more
conservation-oriented mindset among the citizenry?
AWF’s James Kahurananga, who is acting as a technical advisor to South Sudan’s government in Juba, notes AWF’s experience in land conservation, enterprise development, and conservation education and training will prove invaluable as South Sudan establishes its conservation policies.
PHOTO:PER KARLSSON
FIAC
HRA
KEA
RNEY
AWF is helping the South Sudanese government to establish conservation
policies that will protect the country’s astounding diversity
THE COUNTRY IS
VERY YOUNG AND POLICIES AND LAWS ARE
CRUCIAL AT THIS EARLY STAGEJAMES KAHURANANGA
AWF TECHNICAL ADVISOR TO SOUTH SUDAN
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
16 African Wildlife Foundation Special Section Winter 2014
Camera traps offer an unobtrusive way to monitor wildlife—and now, another way for AWF supporters to get close to some of Africa’s most elusive creatures.
Your support really makes a difference. Thank you.
awf.org/donate
Wide-ranging use
GET UP CLOSE & PERSONAL WITH
View the videos
– Gayane Margaryan
Camera traps offer a variety of advantages for wildlife research and monitoring, especially when dealing with elusive species such as the leopard (Top).
They have also been found to capture rare species, such as the forest elephant (Bottom)–and even poachers (Middle).
What’s new online
“The cameras proved very helpful in collecting evidence of a number of species that are normally diffi cult to fi nd”JEFF DUPAIN, DIRECTORAWF GREAT APES PROGRAM
PHIL
IP M
URU
THI
MAX
PLA
NCK
INST
ITU
TE F
OR
A-EV
OLU
TIO
NAR
Y
ANTH
ROPO
LOG
Y PA
N A
FRIC
AN P
ROG
RAM
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
WorldMags.netWorldMags.net
WorldMags.net
Top Related