Download - The Travel & Leisure Magazine Morocco Feature

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Page 1: The Travel & Leisure Magazine Morocco Feature

Morroco, especiallyMarrakech, was formany years a must-stop on the old hippietrail. Although themagic that brought

the tuned-in and dropped-out crowds in the1960s and 1970s is still here, things havechanged, not least that instead of spendingseveral days in a crowded minibus travel-ling overland, you can now fly direct fromthe UK not only to Casablanca but to Fez,Agadir and Marrakech itself. It’s also verygood value for money, though it wouldsound strange to describe it as a budgetholiday destination.Despite decades under Spanish and

French colonial rule – which produced thenew town quarters to mirror the old Medinadistricts in the major cities - this is still obvi-ously very much a traditional Islamic culturewith the vibrant indigenous Berber way oflife in no sense under threat. My own firstintroduction to Morocco was as a 19-year-old student when I spent the whole of a sum-mer wandering around the country. It was amarvellous experience, one that I’ll neverforget (especially as it was my first introduc-tion to the art of haggling: see below forsome hardwon advice!). You could easilyspend six months travelling around thecountry and only scratch the surface – onthat first visit I spent most of my time inMarrakech and the High Atlas mountainsand while I didn’t regret a minute of it, thebrief time I then spent in Tangier,Casablanca (which feels more French than

Moroccan in many ways) and Fez gave mean appetite to return.

World Heritage SiteFez – a former capital of Morocco - maynot have the international fame ofMarrakech and is rather more traditionallyconservative, but it is more than a match forit architecturally and is arguably the coun-try’s intellectual centre, home to probablythe world’s oldest university and nearly 800mosques: the Al Qarawiyin Mosque,Morocco’s oldest, retains its originalminaret, built in 956. The city has over 8kmof fortified walls but it’s the medina, thewhole of which is a UNESCO WorldHeritage Site, which is absolutely unforget-table, not least because it’s so narrow andmazelike that first-time visitors are almostguaranteed to get lost within it.

‘...that Tardisfeeling of hiddendepth and light istruly astounding...’It’s also a bustling and very much work-

ing area where transport is by bike or don-key, never car, and you can happily stumblearound for others, enjoying the specialitiesof each district, whether they be dyers, pot-ters, woodcarvers or weavers. As in the rest

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Moroccobound

Only an hour away from Spain, Morocco feels like a world awayfrom Europe, saysRobert Seymour. But if you want to

experience a different way of life, this could be the perfect choice.

getting to know

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of Morocco, if you get the chance of quickpeek beyond these labyrinthine walls intothe patios behind, make the most of it – thatTardis feeling of hidden depth and light istruly astounding. As well as being famousfor the high standard of its handicrafts, Fezis also home to one of the world’s mostimportant music festivals, the annual week-long Fez Festival of World Sacred Musicwhich attracts internationally famous musi-cians such as Ravi Shankar and YoussouN’Dour. A great blog about Fez is The ViewFrom Fez at http://riadzany.blogspot.com.

Tangier, like many of Morocco’s famouscities, has a strong eccentric and cosmopoli-tan feeling to it: once it was famously aninternational zone which was home to writ-ers such as Paul Bowles and particular pop-ular among artists such as Matisse, as wellas being religiously very multicultural. It’sstill good to factor in a visit to the citytoday, especially as it is so close to Spain.But the focus of many travellers’ attentionis Marrakech and the first stop is almostalways the Djemaa el Fna.

During the day, this square in the epicen-tre of the medina is fairly quiet. It’s pleasantto do a bit of people watching from one ofthe many café terraces around the square

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with a nice hot and sweet mint tea or try anorange juice from one of the sellers on carts.Later on you could try out one ofMarrakech’s bathhouses or ‘hammams’ (yourhotel will be able to give you details of thebest local ones as well as opening times). Butas the night begins to draw in, it becomes areal festival spectacle space with musicians,dancers, acrobats, storytellers, snake charm-ers and dentists (complete with pulled teethin a massive bag to indicate how successfulthey’ve been…), all enclosed within circlesof spectators as they pull off their finesttricks. There are also endless food stallswhere you can pick whatever you like andsee it cooked fresh right in front of you – eat-ing out is a great way to get genuine feel forthe city. Once it’s properly dark, look out forthe Gnaoua musicians who play trancelikehypnotic music on drums, flutes and three-string guitars. These are a revelation. Take itall in from one of the rooftop terraces, suchas the Café de France’s or the Hôtel CTM’s.

To Go ExploringThe Djemaa is a great place to start yourexploration of the area. Close by is the mar-vellous Koutoubia Mosque (nearly 70mhigh and a useful landmark if you get lost,it was begun around 1150 and is atmospher-ically illuminated at night) and AvenueMohammedV, the street which takes you upinto the newer areas of the city known asGueliz. And of course, it’s right next to thesouks. Although you can visit these ancient

markets any time of the day, and it’s maybewiser to try them in daylight hours for thefirst time to get your bearings, in the earlyevening they become a whole new worldwithout end. They’re loud, they’re colourfuland they’re terribly tempting (a good blogabout Marrakech and shopping in generalthere is My Marrakesh at http://moroccanmaryam.typepad.com).

There are maps of the souks and it is wellworth consulting them before you go in fora general feel, but the joy of them is simplywandering around (don’t worry about get-ting lost – the ubiquitous ‘guides’ will seekyou out and give you a helping hand). Eacharea specialises, so look out for:● Souk Smarine, if you’re interested in tex-

tiles which leads onto a section sellingherbal remedies

● kissarias, the covered markets which tendto sell more expensive goods, interestingbut not really what you’re here for

● Souk des Bijoutiers, for jewellery● Souk Cherratin, for leatherwork

HagglingAnd when you buy in a souk, you areexpected, almost encouraged, to haggle foreverything. For the uninitiated, you shouldfirst choose your haggling spot carefully. InMorocco, the deeper into a souk youexplore, the less likely you are to encounterinflated tourist prices. Above all, avoid mid-dlemen like guides – their commission fordelivering you to their ‘brother’s’ carpet

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Eating and drinkingYou can eat and drink well inMorocco on a low budget in placesaround the older parts of town in themedinas although it’s worth splashingout to try out a more upmarketrestaurant or two.The country’ssignature dish is tajine, a kind of stew,often with lamb, prunes and almonds,eaten with couscous, and traditionallywith your hand rather than a knifeand fork: remember, eat only withyour right hand in someobody’shouse.Also delicious is the spicy beansoup harira and there are alwaysdelicious pastries available. Personally,I enjoyed the pigeon pies but can seewhy these might not be everybody’sfirst choice of dinner.You mustn’tleave the country without severalmint teas inside you either.This isbrewed simply – a massive bunch ofmint and an equally vast amount ofsugar – but is lovely. Orange juice iswidely available, but it’s often wiser toask for it without ice or water if yourstomach is delicate.Tread carefullywith alcohol – it’s not possible usuallyfor example to find it in medinas.However if you get the chance to trysome of the country’s red wines,you’ll almost certainly enjoy the taste.

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with a nice hot and sweet mint tea or try anorange juice from one of the sellers on carts.Later on you could try out one ofMarrakech’s bathhouses or ‘hammams’ (yourhotel will be able to give you details of thebest local ones as well as opening times). Butas the night begins to draw in, it becomes areal festival spectacle space with musicians,dancers, acrobats, storytellers, snake charm-ers and dentists (complete with pulled teethin a massive bag to indicate how successfulthey’ve been…), all enclosed within circlesof spectators as they pull off their finesttricks. There are also endless food stallswhere you can pick whatever you like andsee it cooked fresh right in front of you – eat-ing out is a great way to get genuine feel forthe city. Once it’s properly dark, look out forthe Gnaoua musicians who play trancelikehypnotic music on drums, flutes and three-string guitars. These are a revelation. Take itall in from one of the rooftop terraces, suchas the Café de France’s or the Hôtel CTM’s.

To Go ExploringThe Djemaa is a great place to start yourexploration of the area. Close by is the mar-vellous Koutoubia Mosque (nearly 70mhigh and a useful landmark if you get lost,it was begun around 1150 and is atmospher-ically illuminated at night) and AvenueMohammedV, the street which takes you upinto the newer areas of the city known asGueliz. And of course, it’s right next to thesouks. Although you can visit these ancient

markets any time of the day, and it’s maybewiser to try them in daylight hours for thefirst time to get your bearings, in the earlyevening they become a whole new worldwithout end. They’re loud, they’re colourfuland they’re terribly tempting (a good blogabout Marrakech and shopping in generalthere is My Marrakesh at http://moroccanmaryam.typepad.com).

There are maps of the souks and it is wellworth consulting them before you go in fora general feel, but the joy of them is simplywandering around (don’t worry about get-ting lost – the ubiquitous ‘guides’ will seekyou out and give you a helping hand). Eacharea specialises, so look out for:● Souk Smarine, if you’re interested in tex-

tiles which leads onto a section sellingherbal remedies

● kissarias, the covered markets which tendto sell more expensive goods, interestingbut not really what you’re here for

● Souk des Bijoutiers, for jewellery● Souk Cherratin, for leatherwork

HagglingAnd when you buy in a souk, you areexpected, almost encouraged, to haggle foreverything. For the uninitiated, you shouldfirst choose your haggling spot carefully. InMorocco, the deeper into a souk youexplore, the less likely you are to encounterinflated tourist prices. Above all, avoid mid-dlemen like guides – their commission fordelivering you to their ‘brother’s’ carpet

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Eating and drinkingYou can eat and drink well inMorocco on a low budget in placesaround the older parts of town in themedinas although it’s worth splashingout to try out a more upmarketrestaurant or two.The country’ssignature dish is tajine, a kind of stew,often with lamb, prunes and almonds,eaten with couscous, and traditionallywith your hand rather than a knifeand fork: remember, eat only withyour right hand in someobody’shouse.Also delicious is the spicy beansoup harira and there are alwaysdelicious pastries available. Personally,I enjoyed the pigeon pies but can seewhy these might not be everybody’sfirst choice of dinner.You mustn’tleave the country without severalmint teas inside you either.This isbrewed simply – a massive bunch ofmint and an equally vast amount ofsugar – but is lovely. Orange juice iswidely available, but it’s often wiser toask for it without ice or water if yourstomach is delicate.Tread carefullywith alcohol – it’s not possible usuallyfor example to find it in medinas.However if you get the chance to trysome of the country’s red wines,you’ll almost certainly enjoy the taste.

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shop is added onto any price you eventuallypay. Chat to the stallholder before youbegin. You’re initiating a relationship, doingmore than just buying. You are entering aritual: consider giving him or her a postcardfrom home or an instant Polaroid photo ofthemselves to create a positive mood. Ifyou’re with your kids, introduce them tomake the transaction more personal.

Once you’ve spotted what you want,ignore it. Pretend to be interested in some-thing completely different. After a while,casually pick up whatever you’re really after.Ask the price and show astonishment at howhigh it is. Emphasise you want a serious fig-ure before making an offer, perhaps one thirdto a half of the original sum. When the tradergives you their patter (‘You think I’m mad?

You are crazy man my friend. Crazy. What isyour last offer, your very last offer?…Ha, ha.Crazy price. I have many children,’ etc,) givehim some back. Maybe a ‘friend’ of yourshas bought the same thing much cheaper. Orperhaps you’ll come back ‘tomorrow’? Keepasking for the best price (they’ll ask you thesame) to bring it down although don’t bar-gain at length unless you’re genuinely inter-ested. Keep the haggling friendly but consid-er walking away to encourage him to lowerhis offer and hang onto your sale. If you buymore than one item, ask for a reduction forbuying in bulk or offer something in partexchange. Finally, if you’re getting close toyour target price, don’t be too forceful overthe last few pesetas - remember that this ishow the stallholder lives.

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TOURISM EXHIBITIONMoroccan Travel Market (MTM) is the new international tourism exhibition to beheld annually in Morocco following this year’s successful launch in Marrakechwhich showcased the Maghreb and Africa. Extremely well organized by ZeynebGhoti, all visitors from the UK were made to feel very welcome at the first event.Tourism is a key part of Morocco’s economy: in 2006, visitor numbers topped 6.5million and last year the number of overnight stays was well over 14.5 million, arecord for the country. Enjoying the Patronage of His Majesty King MohammedVI,MTM is part of the Kingdom’s tourism policy aiming to reach 10 million touristsby 2010.Although it traditionally relies on French visitors, Morocco is attractingincreasingly international visitors and businesses from Europe and the Gulf. Inresponse to the rise of the internet, the emergence of new distribution channels,the birth of new niche tourism, the culture, welfare and tourism itself, Morocco,not just for its own growth but also for those of the African continent had tocreate an international exhibition on tourism, hence MTM was born.

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Palace. The tombs are now restored after cen-turies of neglect and the garden and courtyardareas contain the final resting places of morethan a hundred princes and members of theirhousehold. The gravestones are works of artin themselves with some gorgeous tilingwork. The palace is ruined, but still gives animpression of wealth and power and whatremains today to be visited is the area whereambassadors were received.

Enjoying the cities of Morocco is only partof its appeal – to get to grips with the country,head for the hills. The High Atlas mountainsare a showcase for the traditional Berber peo-ples and a stay in any of the small villages thatare dotted around the hillsides is a memorableexperience. Although you can get up into themountains under your own steam, there aremany companies which offer safari-type tripsinto the High Atlas, whether it be walking orcycling including Epic Morocco’s Walkingwith Nomads option, as part of which you fol-low a family in a migrating tribe through themountains on their six-monthly move to freshpastures in the Jebel Saghro range in the southof the country. Like so much of Morocco, it’san experience as much as a holiday.

AgadirMorocco is not simply a feast for the brain,it’s also a marvellous place to kick back andrelax, and there’s nowhere better for that thanAgadir on the country’s south-west Atlanticcoast The city, once a fishing village andnow a major fishing port, has a genuinelybeautiful bay with 10 kilometres of whitesand and around 340 days of sunshine a yearso it’s not surprising that it has also becomethe country’s major holiday resort. Theswimming and watersports are great here butdon’t expect to find the narrow old streets ofthe country’s other cities: after an earthquakein 1960, the city was comprehensivelyrebuilt. For a little historic trip, head for thehilltop Kasbah which gives great views.

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There are international airports at the major cities so Morocco is well linked

to the UK with numerous carriers including British Airways, Royal Air Maroc,

North Africa’s first low cost airline Atlas Blue, Easyjet, Ryanair and Thomsonfly

offering direct flights. Plenty of ferries operate between Algericas in Spain and

Tangier.There are also high-speed ferry options from Gibraltar to Tangier but

these can sometimes be a bit bumpy.You can also easily get ferries to Ceuta

and Melilla in Morocco (technically Spanish territory) from Almeria and

Malaga.And you could always take a car ferry too, including from France.

More details at Direct Ferries (www.directferries.co.uk) and Southern

Ferries (www.southernferries.co.uk).

Getting around within the country is just as easy.You could think about

internal flights but there’s also a very good, and very good value, bus and rail

network.Trains are dependable, comfortable and swift with sleeping car

options.The Man In Seat Sixty One web site (www.seat61.com) has plenty

of information including how to get from London to Morocco in 48 hours on

a really pleasant train journey.There are also plenty of taxis around and a

shared taxi system, based on speedy Mercedes, for hopping between towns, a

great way to meet locals.

Among the many operators offering trips to and around Morocco is Epic

Morocco (www.epicmorocco.co.uk, mentioned above);Addicted to Travel

http://www.addictedtotravel.com a good site for researching into what’s

on offer; Casablanca-based CaravanVoyages www.caravan-voyages.ma; Hip

Morocco/Hip Marrakech at www.hipmorocco.com and

www.hipmarrakech.com which offer English-speaking riads. Once inside

the country there are many options for seeing the sights – one of the most

interesting is in a hot air balloon over Marrakech with a glass of champagne

with Ciel d’Afrique (http://cieldafrique.info).

There is a very wide choice of accommodation, from three, four and five

star hotels (the Mamounia (www.mamounia.com) is particularly luxurious

if you’re looking to splurge) to the increasingly popular riads and dars,

traditional Moroccan houses which have been restored – often by foreigners

– as a cross between second homes and rather tranquil boutique hotels.They

are especially common in Marrakech.A good place to start your

accommodation search is the Moroccan Tourist Board’s own site at

www.visitmorocco.org which is pretty comprehensive.

And if you like it so much you don’t want to leave, you might also want to

consider buying a second home in the country. GEM Estates are specialists in

Moroccan property – see their web site at (www.gem-estates.com).

Explore (www.explore.co.uk) has a range of Morocco adventure options

such as 11 days including camping, Marrakech, a trip into the High Atlas and

into the Sahara.The site also has very atmospheric photos from their trips.

YOUR Morocco Facts

TL

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[email protected] 020 8150 6131

•Tailor-made holidays• Group adventure tours• Hiking with nomads• Corporate groups

Epic Morocco

An eclectic selection of riads andhotels throughout Morocco

[email protected]

0208 816 7065

A selection of English speaking riadsin Marrakech

[email protected]

0208 816 7065

Page 9: The Travel & Leisure Magazine Morocco Feature

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