10 April 29, 2007 escape THE SUNDAY TELEGRAPH www.sundaytelegraph.com.au

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Xyxyx special

Sea dog: Swashbuckling Captain Harry keeps a weather eye out

Shiver me timbers,is this cove for realRoderick Eime bravespirates and cyclonesfor a glimpse of theromantic South Seaslife on Vanuatu

Idyllic: The Iririki Island resort and, top, taking in the view from the new apartments

SUITE TALK

‘‘PULL that halyard! Put yerback into it, lad!’’ hollers CaptainHarry, as I heave and sweat onthe fat rope that hoists themain-sail. ‘‘Now, sweat it off like this,’’he curses, pulling heavily on therope and fixing it to the cleat.

I’ve made the mistake of voic-ing a passing interest in sailing,and Harry, eager to immerse mein the experience, soon has myflabbyarmsachingandsore fromthe exertion.We’re aboard his classic, gaff-

rigged schooner, Cassiopeia, fullrig flying andheading out of PortVila harbour for a sunset cruise.Rum-laden punch is poured

generously in true seagoing style,and tall tales are soon flowing.Harry is what you’d call a

corporate refugee. A US-bornarchitect, he was about to signthe biggest deal of his life, butbacked out at the last minute,choosing instead to sail off to theSouth Seas.His flowing locks of dark hair,

mischievous grin and neatlytrimmed goatee make him aninstant ‘‘Jack Sparrow’’ with adangerous charm.Iwonder ifHarry, based inPort

Vila and still dreaming of the oddswashbuckling adventure, maybe pushing the pirate fantasy abit too far.But our short excursion on the

thankfully tranquil harbour is afun and relaxing frolic, completewith eye patches, cutlasses andmuzzle-loading pistols.To the port bow is Iririki Island,

‘‘safe haven’’ in the local lang-uage and home to one of PortVila’s very few luxury resorts. Itwas once the site of the Britishhigh commissioner’s residence,now occupied by the resort’smanager, Jean-Francois Debon.

Opened 21 years ago, the resortand spa complex has wooed bothnewlyweds and the newly retiredin their quest for the perfecttropical-island getaway. During

that time, Vanuatu has hadmorethan its share of rough weather,including airline collapses,reschedules, consular warningsand cyclones. Coincidentally,dur-ing my stay tropical storm Beckywas on her way.The resort has, astonishingly,

continued throughout this turbu-lence and is now entering a newphase of its life.I’m here to inspect the latest 61

luxury accommodation unitsopenedatSnorkelersCove on theisland, where developers haveunveiled plush apartments andpenthouses for those wishing toinvest in their tropical vision.Now, instead of just staying for

a few nights in paradise, guestscan purchase their own apart-ments or penthouses for privateuse or investment.

Most prefer to holiday in tradit-ional style, with Internet roomrates beginning at $380 a night forthe single room fares (free-standing bungalows) and deluxe

apartments from$560, though thisrate can be reduced and bonusesattached when buying a package.

As I stare out across the ex-panse ofPortVila’sharbour fromone of the balconies, admiringwhat is arguably a million-dollar-plus view, I can see the manyattractions of this location.There’s access to a few good

restaurants, berthing for yourluxury yacht, a spacious leisureprecinct with huge infinity pool,water sports,gymandconferencefacilities all secreted into thecareful landscaping of the island.Some aspects, however, border

on the archetypal Gold Coastdevelopment, like the stark tilingand plastering in the new rooms,and the slightly unimaginativearchitecture of the apartmentblock, especially from the rear.That said, the location, facilit-

ies and dining are hard to matchin this remote Pacific republic.

For those wishing to stay asguests, there’s still a lot of attract-ion in the traditional fares withtheir rough wooden floors, slattedwindows and old colonial feel.Dinner atWatermarkRestaur-

ant is a polished affair, with

French wine, delicate seafoodand the trademark Santo Islandbeef eye fillet.

The beasts on Santo live astress-free life, up to their rumpsin long, lush grass, and producesome of the tenderest, most flav-oursome steak you’ll find any-where.

Iririki’s other premiumrestaur-ant, Michener’s — named afterAmerican author James A. Mich-ener, of Tales Of The SouthPacific fame — is perched imperi-ously above the harbour, com-plete with its own horizon pool.

As guests tuck into their multi-star cuisine and sip champagneand cocktails, I glance across thetable to Captain Harry, stillresplendent inhis full JollyRogerregalia.

He has captivated two of thefemale guests with rapturousconversation, and it’s this inno-cent seduction that encapsulatesthe whole Iririki experience: anescape to the alluring, colourfuland romantic life of a South Seasscallywag. I wonder if he’s hiring.

■ The writer was a guest of Iririki IslandResorts and Spa.

Port Vila

VA N U AT U

Efate

SouthPaci ficOcean

Port Vila, VanuatuGetting there: Air Vanuatuflies six times a week fromSydney to Port Vila; IririkiIsland Resorts & Spa is justthree minutes by free, round-the-clock ferry from Port Vilatown centre.

Package: Coral Seas Travelhas 7 nights for price of 5 atIririki Island Resorts & Spa ina private Garden Bungalowfrom $1569; includes flightsand taxes, breakfasts,transfers and Port Vila andEnvirons tour. For travelbetween October 16 andDecember 14 and January 17and February 29, 2008.

Details: 1800 641 803,(02) 8236 9900 orwww.coralseas.com.au

More: www.iririki.com