news 2002 n°2
SlowFoodMasterItalianCookingNews,no.2,yearI,October2002
SCHOOL OF ITALIAN REGIONAL COOKING
Jesi • Italy
summary
Dear friends, let’s go!Gianfranco Mancini 2
The Pergolesi HallNicola Silveri 3
Our team 4
The Venice Region: many cuisines from the mountains to the seaStefania Cavallini 6
Land of confines and mountain cookingPaolo Bellini 10
General programme 13
A region of lakes and streamsGilberto Venturini 21
Land of olive oilPier Giorgio Oliveti 22
From the alpine valleys to the Po plainsArmando Gambera 24
Our expert cooks 26
Our work-placement restaurants 28
To our Convivium Leaders 30
Verdicchio: a white wine of excellence 32
Cover: Il miracolo dei pani e dei pesci, Giovan Francesco Guerrieri(Fossombrone, 1589 - Pesaro, 1657)
1
Master Italian Cooking NewsMAGAZINE OF THE ISTITUTO SUPERIORE DI GASTRONOMIA
Editorial DirectorGianfranco Mancini
Editorial StaffPaolo Bellini, Angelo Concas, AlbertoFabbri, Luca Fabbri, Carlo Gazzarrini,Stefania Cavallini, Raffaele Grilli,Piergiorgio Oliveti, FrancescoPensovecchio, Federico Piemonte,Pasquale Porcelli, Vito Puglia, GilbertoVenturini.
Editorial Co-ordinationArduino Tassi
TranslationsJennifer PiersseneThanks to Martha Huber Scavone
Graphics and page layoutGEI Gruppo Editoriale InformazioneElisabetta Carletti
PrintingArti Grafiche Jesine - Jesi
Advertising and administrationAssociazione Ital. Cook.via F. Conti n. 5 – 60035 JESI (AN) ItalyTel./Fax ++39.0731.56400 Web: www.italcook.it E.mail: [email protected]
Recorded in the Tribunal of Ancona no. 433/02, 22.02.2002Editor-in-chief: Dino Mogianesi
ASSOCIAZIONE ITAL.COOK.Founded by Slow Food and the Town Council of Jesi
Board of DirectorsNicola Silveri (chairman) GiovanniMancia, Simona Romagnoli (directors).
Reviser BoardGiuliano Cerioni (chairman) SergioMoretti, Sabrina Rotatori (members).
When we decided on the workschedule and the didacticstructure of our school, wedecided to focus the teachingon the particular cuisine ofeach region of Italy, becausewe believe that the roots of ourfood culture are found in thetraditions of the territory.However we also thought thatthis would not be sufficient. Infact it is the duty of a schoolthat wants to support Italiancuisine in the world to offerproducts and ingredients ofquality and guarantee the bestthat the food industry produces in Italy. Those whofollow our course have thepossibility of learning about theproducts used, to continuecooking Italian dishes whenthey return to their country.This is why at the centre of theschool at Palazzo Balleani,other than the classrooms,there is an important room: the
Pergolesi Hall.Situated on the first floor of thefour hundred year old building,this large hall will be in realitya window on the Italian companies who present theirproducts, from pasta to wine,from salami to cheese, fromgrappa to coffee, etc.The companies, chosen bySlow Food, will exhibit theirbest products here, leavingthe students to taste freelythese products for the durationof the course, to be presenteddirectly at the weekends dedicated to learning about theproducts and their producers.The Pergolesi Hall, which wehave named after the greatmusician who was born andlived in Jesi in the 1700’s willalso be the location for theFriday evening dinners, whenat the conclusion of the week’swork the school will open itsdoors to the town and will
allow the dishes studied duringthe previous days, to betasted. The hall will thereforebecome the show room of ourschool for the public and willpermit us to create a link ofwelcome and friendshipbetween our students and thetown.
3
Five years have passedsince the day that we firstdecided to set up a cookeryschool to enable and inspirecooks who love Italian cuisine to share their knowledge and skills with therest of the world.Bit by bit the idea hasmatured, in discussion withthe Town council of Jesi, (atown in the Marche regionnoted for its production ofVerdicchio wine) and theSlow food organisation.Together we have worked onthe outlines of the teachingprogramme and how it mightbest be organised.We have worked with pleasure over these yearsbecause we have sensedgrowing support for our project and because of ourfirm conviction that Italiancuisine needs solid, practicalsupport and clear standardsworld-wide. The best way toachieve this must surely beto found a school dedicatedto Italian cuisine.There are two pitfalls that we
must avoid: first, we mustbeware of offering quick,superficial or unhelpfulanswers, as can happen soeasily when courses are hurried or crammed into ashort weekend. Secondly, wemust not present Italian cuisine too vaguely or in toogeneral a way, ignoring itsdistinctiveness and its rootsin the local cultures of northand south, the coast and thehinterland.For this reason we havedecided to create a real worthy school that offerslong, thorough and demanding courses. Thosewho attend will be authoritatively taught aboutthe basis of our culture,region by region and willlearn all that is necessary toappreciate truly genuineItalian cooking, and to present it to every
corner of the world. The Slow Food organisationthat has inspired the Schoolof Italian Regional Cooking atJesi looks forward to developing a programme of education that focuses onsense and taste, quality oflife and the protection of theenvironment and biodiversity.Inspired by this philosophy,professional cooks from allover Italy will come to ourschool to teach the traditionaldishes most characteristic oftheir own regions, preparedwith prime quality ingredients.The Master Italian Cookingcourse of Slow food is readyto take its first steps.We look forward to seeingyou in Jesi. Dear friends, let’s go!
The DirectorGianfranco Mancini
2
Dear friends,let’s go!
The Pergolesi Hall
The ChairmanNicola Silveri
5
In Jesi our chairman guides
the work of the board of
Directors and is
responsible for relations
between the school and
public institutions. The director
is responsible for the didactic
activities and contact with the
national direction of Slow
Food. The secretary follows
the administrative business
and makes contact with
foreign representatives.
In each region of Italy there is
a regional director who works
for our school; and this person
chooses the typical dishes to
be presented, speaks to the
trainer-chefs and directs the
students to the restaurants for
a period of work experience.
They are all people connected
to the Slow Food movement
who have worked for years
with it, who know each other
and who are friends. All of
them work hard, but with
pleasure, as is the philosophy
of Slow Food, to reach the
same objective: create a
School of great value to
support the eno-gastronomic
wealth and food culture of Italy
in the world.
4
Our team
Nicola Silveri - Chairman
Gianfranco Mancini - Director
Arduino Tassi - Secretary Armando GamberaPiemonte
Gilberto VenturiniLombardia
Paolo BelliniTrentino
Pier Giorgio OlivetiUmbria
Pasquale PorcelliPuglia
Angelo ConcasSardegna
Carlo GazzarriniToscana
Vito PugliaCampania
Federico PiemonteFriuli
Alberto FabbriEmilia Romagna
Francesco PensovecchioSicilia
Stefania CavalliniVeneto
Il Formai Pincion deve il suo nome al fatto che il casaro, divertendosi la sera precedente alla produzione del formaggio e alzandosi tardi al mattino, non aveva fatto intempo a scremare il latte della sera. Il prodotto che neusciva era così un formaggiograsso buonissimo emolto ricercato.
To the north, on the border of
Austria, we have the Dolomites,
distinguished mountains of
rare beauty. The Dolomite cui-
sine is simple in its ingredients
which skilfully mixed yeld deli-
cious dishes.
Local dishes of sound local tra-
dition include the polenta, that
derives from centuries ago and
is nothing more than ground
corn, cooked in salted water
until it reaches a desired
consistency, sometimes
dense, sometimes
less so according to
the recipe.
The polenta is some-
times used as a sim-
ple accompaniment to
other dishes, but it may
also be treated as a main
course served with lightly
fried onions and mixtures of
mushrooms, game sauce,
or strongly flavoured
cheeses, such as the skiz,
- a hot mixture that creates a
mouth-watering aroma!
As always in mountainous
zones, isolation and difficulty of
communication encourage the
use of local natural resources:
wild herbs such as colubrina, or
the gamaita, the dandelion or
the bubbolini. All these herbs
also serve to restore the body
after the monotonous food of
the winter, as spring brings its
supply of fresh vitamins .
In the local cuisine we see the
use of barley and beans,
cabbage and the red turnip and
pumpkin with which casunzieiis made, a type of ravioli. We
can also find potato gnocchiand polenta with mushrooms,
snails, game, cheeses and fish
from the small rivers that run
down to the valley.
Moving down to the plains we
find the hilly zone that widens
out from Lake Garda (the
biggest lake in Italy) to Venice.
6
V E N E T O
The Venice Region:
many cuisines from themountains to the sea
Among the Italian regions, that of the Veneta is
one of the most varied.
It is located in the north-east of the country and is
blessed with a varied landscape of mountains, hills,
plains, lakes, rivers, lagoons and a long stretch of
coast along the Adriatic sea.
Stefania Cavallini
PINCION DE SELVA
TONIOLO CASEARIA S.p.A.
Borso del Grappa - Treviso - Italia
+39.0423.910266 r.a.
www.toniolo.it
On these hills vineyards stretch
for as far as the eye can see
and wine is produced in great
quantities, whites and reds of
the highest quality, known
throughout the world.
In the smaller towns may be
found the famous osterie (tav-
erns), places to meet friends
after work, in moments of rest
or on holiday where you can
chat, play cards or drink a glass
of wine that the locals call the
ombra.
Our diet follows the seasons of
the wild herbs with which we
prepare soups, risottos and
omelettes rich with various
flavours. Typically used are the
white asparagus of Bassano,
the bruscandoli, the very
famous baccalà alla vicentina(salt cod) Towards the cold
season the splendid radicchioof Treviso arrives, fresh and
crunchy or the variegated
radicchio of Castelfranco, dif-
ferent varieties, stupendous
vegetables.
From the hills we come down to
the plain, watered by various
rivers.
The economy is predominantly
agricultural so the cuisine
revolves around the farmyard
animals such as chicken,
turkey, rabbit and pig.
At Lake Garda the climate is
mild. Everyone here cultivates
vines, citrus fruits and olives
from which an excellent olive
oil of soft density is made. The
cuisine uses many of the lake
fish: the Lake Garda carp, the
trout, the coregone, the eel, the
agone and the tench.
Finally we descend towards the
coast and arrive at the sea:
here is Venice at the centre of a
lagoon and 200 kilometres of
coast where naturally we find
dishes with fish, crustaceans,
shrimps, the schie not to men-
tion the black ink squid, the
sarde in saòr, the bigoli in salsaand thel baccalà mantecato.
The people, their traditions and
the thousand-year history of
Venice have contributed to the
variety and richness of the cul-
ture of this splendid region: for
us it will be a pleasure to wel-
come all those who would like
to sample our culinary tradi-
tions and to learn more - with
the skilled help of our chefs!
8
V E N E T O
Jada
The land of Valdobbiadene Prosecco in its best fruit: wine, food, hospitality and cuisine.31040 S. Stefano di Valdobbiadene (Treviso) Italia - Tel. +39 0423 900213 Fax +39 0423 900042
www.gustosissimo.it e-mail: [email protected]
Situated in the north of Italy,
leaving the plain behind you
and heading off along the
Adige river valley, we see the
start of the Alpine valleys. Here
you pass from olives to vines,
the terracing cut into the moun-
tains, the apple trees, the ice
and alpine lakes and the
streams and rivers of the
purest of water. Woods and
forests, meadows and grazing
10
T R E N T I N O
Land of confinesand mountain cooking
Tospeak about Trentino and its gastronomic
culture it is necessary to look closely at the
geography of this region.
It is a land of borders, where the Latin world finishes
and German culture starts.
Paolo Bellini
13
land cover the highest parts of
the territory.
Travelling through this region
you will find wine-sellers, fruit
warehouses, distilleries and
cheese factories. Whether pro-
ducing from small farms or
large cooperatives, they all
work to protect the unique
wealth that nature has offered
to this territory.
The Trentino is a land of wines:
Nosiola, Marzemino and
Teroldego are local vines, but
you can also find the excellent
Muller Thurgau, Chardonnay
and Pinot Grigio. The vines are
cultivated with masterly cultiva-
tion systems up to 900metres
above sea level, with notable
climatic and territorial differ-
ences that make this land a
real wine-growing microcosm.
Here you can taste white wines
with a unique aromatic touch
and a well-structured red
(some really are quite extraor-
dinary!), but don’t forget the
high-class spumanti or the vinosanto of the lake valley. Finally,
let your taste buds sample a
very fine grappa.
Milk, cheeses, butter: this is an
area with thousands of small
producers to discover.
The type of cattle-breeding
here is typical of that of the
Alpine mountains, with various
varieties of cow, from the Brunato the Frisona italiana, the
Grigia alpina and the Pezzatarossa.
This activity pays careful atten-
tion to nature, to the rhythm of
the seasons, to the respect for
the life of the animals and to
the limits imposed by the
region. With the milk taken , we
produce the Grana trentino and
the Asiago, the Puzzone diMoena, Casolét, Vezzena and
the Spressa. Many of these
cheeses are products of raw
milk, and therefore maintain
the food properties of the
alpeggio with its precious flora,
medicinal herbs and the purest
water of the mountain.
Although there are common
features in the cuisine that link
the various parts of the
Trentino, the dishes vary from
valley to valley. Recipes found
include: the canederli, the
orzetto and the polenta (or
rather the polenta as a polentacarbonara with lucanica and
Puzzone di Moena or the white
polenta with radicchio or the
polenta pasticciata). There are
soups of various types, cheese
ravioli, savoury meats, fesa dimanzo (beef) or coscia di vitel-lone (veal) left for weeks insalamoia with pepper, garlic,
rosemary, laurel and sage,
then lightly fried and finely
beaten). There is also the
spezzatini di cervo or capriolo(deer) the sguazèt, the lake fish
and the dishes prepared using
apple which is perhaps the true
symbol of the Trentino
(risotto with apple, apple
strudel and apple fritters)
Other important ingredi-
ents include mushrooms
and chestnuts.
12
General programme
T R E N T I N O
Course Dates 2003
8 January - 14 March
25 March - 30 May
9 June - 13 August
7 October - 12 December
Course Dates 2004
7 January - 12 March
23 March - 28 May
8 June - 12 August
5 October - 10 December
1 The courses are designed for
professional cooks working out-
side Italy who wish to widen and
improve their knowledge of Italian
cuisine. In particular we are
addressing cooks who have com-
pleted their training and have
worked alongside established
chefs for some time. Our aim is to
provide a wide-ranging frame of
reference with plenty of in-depth
detail that will enable cooks to
interpret Italian cuisine to the high-
est standards throughout the
world. Those wishing to take this
Master's should thus be familiar
with basic culinary techniques.
2 The courses are held at the
Institute, which is located in
Palazzo Balleani in Jesi, a city of
40,000 inhabitants in the central
Italian region of the Marche. Each
course lasts for ten weeks, and
those taking part will all be able to
further their experience by work-
ing for a few months or even a
year with restaurants associated
with Slow Food throughout Italy.
They will thus come into direct
contact with restaurateurs special-
ized in meat or fish dishes, from
North to South, comprising a
whole range of particular regional
specialties.
3 Every week the cuisine of a par-
ticular Region of Italy will be the
object of a special focus, such that
by the end the cooks attending the
course will be familiar with Italian
cuisine in its foremost regional
expressions: from the traditional
rural dishes of Tuscany to the fish
preparations of the Adriatic; from
the cheeses of Piedmont to the
tortellini of the Emilia Romagna;
from the vegetable dishes of
Puglia to the sweetmeats of Sicily;
from the cuisine of the Alpine val-
leys to that of the Mediterranean
coast. Italy is a complex mosaic of
history and products, dishes and
traditions, scents and savors.
Every "festa" is indeed a feast,
which means a particular dish and
a celebration of life.
4 One day a week, preferably
Monday, will be devoted to partic-
ular subjects with tastings of wine,
olive oil, pasta, cheese and cured
meats selected from the country's
foremost producers. During their
free time, the participants will
have access to the Institute
Library, where they will be able to
find out more about subjects of
special interest to them.
5 Lessons will take place all day
on Tuesdays, Wednesdays,
Thursdays and Fridays. Following
a brief historical and geographical
introduction to the Region, its
environmental features and its
food and wine heritage, students
will move on to the preparation of
typical regional dishes. These will
be practical, one-to-one lessons
taught by regional specialists
using specific regional ingredients
that will change from week to
week. On Fridays the school will
open its doors to the general pub-
lic, presenting the most interesting
dishes of the week's endeavor for
their evaluation.
6 Saturdays and Sundays will be
devoted to individual study and
getting to know a wide range of
producers and their products.
Some producers will present their
products at the school, where tast-
ing sessions will also be arranged.
Others will welcome chefs to their
premises throughout the country
for weekend visits. Other
weekend activities will
include visiting Italy's fore-
most art cities (Rome,
Florence, Venice).
7 Each course will be attend-
ed by no more than twenty
participants, who will also
receive board and lodging in
apartments in the historic
center of the city, not far from
the School. The cost of the
course, including board,
lodging, laundry service etc.
is ten thousand US dollars,
plus one thousand dollars
enrollment fee.
8 At the end of the course all par-
ticipants will receive an official
Master's certificate under the
aegis of the Marche Region and
the Italian Ministry of Culture.
15
1 I corsi sono riservati a cuochi
professionisti che operano all’e-
stero e vogliono acquisire una
conoscenza approfondita della
cucina italiana. Ci rivolgiamo in
particolare a cuochi che abbiano
già terminato il loro curriculum
scolastico o che abbiano lavorato
per qualche tempo accanto ad
altri chef di cucina. Noi desideria-
mo dare una conoscenza ampia e
rigorosa, con metodo organico e
preciso a coloro che desiderano
fare cucina italiana nel mondo in
modo professionale. Pertanto chi
desidera partecipare al nostro
Master deve già conoscere le fon-
damentali tecniche di lavoro in
cucina.
2 I corsi si svolgono presso la
sede dell’Istituto, nel Palazzo
Balleani, a Jesi, cittadina di
40.000 abitanti, nelle Marche,
nell’Italia Centrale. I corsi hanno
una durata di dieci settimane.
Tutti coloro che frequenteranno il
Master avranno la possibilità di
continuare la loro esperienza per
alcuni mesi o un anno presso i
ristoranti della catena Slow Food
in tutt’Italia, da nord a sud, spe-
cializzandosi sia in carne che
pesce, nelle Regioni che ciascu-
no preferisce.
3 Ogni settimana viene pre-
sentata, studiata ed elabora-
ta la cucina di una Regione
d’Italia. Alla fine del corso
ogni professionista cono-
scerà la cucina italiana nelle
più elevate espressioni
regionali: dalla cucina tradi-
zionale e contadina della
Toscana al pesce
dell’Adriatico, dai formaggi
del Piemonte ai tortellini
dell’Emilia Romagna, dalle
verdure della Puglia ai dolci
della Sicilia, dalla cucina
delle valli alpine a quella
mediterranea. L’Italia è un mosai-
co infinito di storie e di prodotti, di
piatti e di tradizione, di profumi e
di sapori in ogni terra. Da noi per
ogni festa c’è un piatto e per ogni
piatto c’è una festa!
4 Un giorno a settimana, di prefe-
renza il lunedì, è dedicato a corsi
brevi, monotematici con degusta-
zione di vino, olio di oliva, pasta,
formaggi, salumi tipici e tradiziona-
li selezionati tra i migliori produtto-
ri di tutto il territorio nazionale.
Nel tempo libero ciascun profes-
sionista avrà la possibilità di
approfondire le proprie conoscen-
ze con studio individuale presso
la biblioteca dell’Istituto.
5 Le lezioni si terranno nei giorni
di martedì, mercoledì, giovedì e
venerdì, con orario pieno. Dopo
una breve presentazione storico-
geografico della Regione con le
sue tradizioni enogastronomiche
e con le sue particolarità ambien-
tali, si passerà allo studio concre-
to dei piatti tipici del territorio.
L’insegnamento non sarà teorico,
ma principalmente pratico ed indi-
viduale. I docenti e le materie
prime provengono dalle singole
regioni e cambiano ogni settima-
na. Il venerdì sera la scuola apre
le porte alla città e presenta i piat-
ti più interessanti della settimana.
6 Il sabato e la domenica sono
riservati allo studio individuale e
alla conoscenza di aziende, pro-
duttori, prodotti tipici nei vari set-
tori alimentari. Alcuni produttori
verranno direttamente presso la
Scuola per presentare i loro pro-
dotti con prova di assaggio, in altri
casi gli chef usciranno sul territo-
rio per conoscere le singole
aziende e i produttori in tutte le
regioni d’Italia. Alcuni fine setti-
mana sono dedicati alla visita
delle città d’arte più famose
(Roma, Firenze, Venezia).
7 Il numero massimo di parteci-
panti è di venti corsisti, ai quali si
garantisce anche vitto e alloggio
in appartamenti in palazzi storici,
nel centro della città, a pochi
passi dalla Scuola. Il costo del
corso, compreso vitto, alloggio,
servizio lavanderia, ecc. è di die-
cimila dollari USA, più mille dolla-
ri di iscrizione.
8 Alla fine del corso viene rilascia-
to ufficialmente un Master con il
riconoscimento della Regione
Marche e del Ministero della
Cultura.
14
Il p
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ma
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e p
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me
“tasting laboratory” that lasts
for an hour.
Transfer to classroom
The teacher prepares the dish.
The students follow the
process and then prepare the
dishes themselves alongside
the teacher, following a
personal teaching programme.
All the operations of the
teacher will be observed either
directly or through the
schedule.
The work will not be rushed,
but done with precision in the
normal learning time required.
When the cooking is finished
the dishes are transfered to
the table to be checked
through tasting and
comparison.
Collective discussion
Review of the didactic
schedule. Eventual variants
from the base dish.Everyday
2/3 base dishes will be
studied.Work finishes at 17:30.
FRIDAY EVENING PROGRAMMEAt the end of a week’s work on
Friday evening the school is
open to the public.
In the Pergolesi Hall a
dinner-tasting will be presented
to 20/25 people with a various
series of dishes, elaborated by
teachers and students, each
one according to the
traditions of their origin.
Prime ingredients and wines of
high quality will be used that
have been suggested by the
school’s sponsor companies,
chosen by Slow Food from
among the best at national
level.
SATURDAY,SUNDAY
Saturdays and Sundays are
dedicated to getting to know
the regions and their products
through direct contact with the
producers.
Some weeks the producers will
come to the school in Jesi to
present their companies and
products with a guided tasting
session.
At other times students will
travel to various Italian regions
to visit producers and
companies.
The work undertaken at
weekends is very important
because it is a direct way for
the students to learn about the
products; how to use them,
where to find them in their
place of origin and how to
introduce these products into
the students’ future work.
17
MONDAYTHEMED TASTING AT THE
REGIONAL ENOTECA
1 Wine-tasting techniques
Getting to know the principlevines of Italy• The red wines of Piemonte
and Tuscany
• The white wines of Friuli,
Veneto and Trentino
• The local vines of
Central Italy
• The South of Italy- the
surfacing of great wines
2 Tasting course of Extra
Virgin Olive Oil
Excellent national products• The productions of
Central Italy: The Marche,
Umbria and Tuscany
• The productions of the
Islands: Sicily and Sardegna
• The productions of Northern
regions: Liguria and Garda
3 Italian Cheeses:
Familiarization and tasting• Methods of maturing and
refining
• Typical products of the
various regions
• Product tasting
4 Salumi
(Dressed pork products):
The great regional traditions:• Salumi - Cooked and raw
• Salumi ground paste and
whole meat
• Ham-prosciutto, culatello and
fiocco
• Cured pork - coppa, lonza
and lonzino
• Salami and ciauscolo.
• Mortadella, bresaola and
lucanica trentina
5 Bread
• The flour, the rising of the
bread and baking
• Common bread, whole-wheat
bread and seasoned bread
• Breadsticks for the catering
industry
TUESDAY WEDNESDAYTHURSDAYFRIDAYCOOKING COURSE WITH
THE DISHES OF A REGION
(a different region every week)
Timetable: From 8:30 to 17:30
with a 1 hour break for lunch
Each day the lesson starts with
a presentation of the prime
ingredients: their
characteristics, quality, zone of
origin and the companies that
produce them. This is our
16
Weekly work plan
In the 15th century, the historical centre of Jesi went though a phase
of great development.
Right in the centre of the city, near the beautiful palazzo della
Signoria, is the palazzo della Balleani, a building that belonged to a
family who owned a large amount of land outside of the town walls.
All the great land-owning families had large cellars beneath their
homes where they gathered grapes to make their supply of wine for
the winter.
In the Balleani cellar, where our school is located, we can now find the
regional Wine-Cellar (Enoteca) of Jesi.
This Enoteca is managed by an association of producers (Assivip)
who organize wine tasting courses.
Not only do they present wine, but also other high-quality products
from local producers: olive oil, cheeses, salami, pasta. On Mondays
the Enoteca will be in the hands of our school, where we will hold our
tasting sessions: courses on wine, oil, bread and cheese.
The collaboration with the Enoteca will continue on Friday evenings
with the conclusion of the teaching programme of the week. Our
school will open to the public for an evening of tasting with a presenta-
tion of the dishes studied during the week.
Regional Enoteca of Jesi
19
PIEMONTE1 Veal and Piemonte beefL’insalata di carne cruda, il vitellotonnato, il bollito misto, il brasatoal barolo and il fritto misto.2 Grain, potato and riceTajarin, agnolotti, gnocchi, risottocon le rane.The cooking of the plains: riso incagnone, tapulone3 Mountain cookingLa supa barbeta, dundaret, cursetin, trota ai funghi, agnellosambucano.4 Salted fish La bagna caoda, il merluzzo al verde.Cheeses and truffles of Alba: usesand preparations.
EMILIA ROMAGNA1 La pasta sfogliaThe making of various shapes:tagliatelle, tagliolini, maltagliatiand grattini, pappardelle and stric-chetti.2 Le paste ripiene (filled pasta):The tortellini of Bologna, the cap-pelletti of Ferrara and the agnolottiof Parma3 I tortelloni: Ricotta, chestnut and potato fil-lingsI cappellacci di zucca4 Oven baked pastaLe lasagne al forno, i cannelloni
MARCHE1 The cuisine of the coastIl brodetto di pesce, stoccafissoall’anconetana2 Inland cooking with cerealsand legumesSpelt, lentils and chick-peasVincesgrassi, stracciatella andpassatelli
3 Game and farmyardanimals:coniglio in porchetta, polloin potacchio, cinghiale4 Cheeses and trufflesPecorino di fossa and tar-tufo bianco di Acqualagna:their uses and prepara-tions
PUGLIA1 Grain, bread and handmade pastaIl grano arso, il grano“stumpato”.The bread of Altamura, thebread of Laterza, the bread ofMonte Sant’Angelo.Pasta: orecchiette, strascinati,cavatelli, troccoli.2 Legumes and vegetablesDried beans, chick-peas andbeans.Cime di rapa, la cicoria catalogna,i lampascioni, i sivoni.3 Milks and cheesesMilk products: fiordilatte, provola,scamorza, burrata, manteca.Cheeses: ricotta fresca, ricottamarzotica, caciocavallo podolico,canestrato.4 The sea“Il crudo” (seafood and fish): tri-gliette, seppioline, polipetti, can-nolicchi, taratuffi, anchovies, mus-sels, sea urchins and oysters.Sardines and anchovies.
CAMPANIA1 ‘Sunday’ cookingGragnano pasta, rice, Napolitanonions and the San Marzanotomato. Ziti al ragù, paccheri allagenovese, il sartù di riso, il timbal-lo and timpano in crosta.
2 Vegetables and legumes Soups and Minestrone: minestramaritata, minestra di broccoli,fagioli alla maruzzara, zuppa dilenticchie e castagne and zuppadi ceci e castagne.3 Meat and salumiPanzetta di agnello, mugliatellicon patate, il soffritto, costine conpapacelle, puntine alla pizzaiola.4 Seafood dishesThe fish of the gulf, Napolitan salted cod, cheeses, cuoccio allamarinara, piccione alla salsa difrutti di mare, filetto di scorfano alculìs di ceci con cipolle in agrodolce.
LOMBARDIA1 Freshwater fishPesce di torrente o di lago in car-pione.Luccio in salsa alla mantovana.2 RiceRis e erborin Risotto alla milaneseRisotto alla “pilota”3 Pasta dishesTortelli di zucca alla mantovanaPizzoccheri della Valtellina
18
Cooking programmesof regions
4 Meat dishesOssi buchi in gremolata alla milaneseStracotto di manzo al vino rosso Cassöela
UMBRIA1 StartersBruschette, crostini, pani, torta altesto and “pizze”2 SoupsZuppe rustiche, minestre di ceci,farro and fagioliPasta:tagliatelle, tagliolini, quadrucci,umbrichelli or ciriole and strangozzi.3 Cooking with trufflesThe white truffles of Fabbro, Cittàdi Castello, Gubbio and GualdoTadino. The black trufflues ofNorcia and Spoleto.4 Grilled meatFrom lamb to boarTOSCANA1 Simple cuisinePanzanella and fettunta; acqua-cotta, soup, tomato bread soup;scottiglia, tripe and centopelle.2 Meat and saucesBeef and pork, la fiorentina anddressed pork products.Meat sauces: beef, pork, game,tomatoes, mushrooms, artichokes,and crostini toscani.3 The Renaissance cuisineHors-d’oeuvres and sformatini;porrata and maccheroncini dipane; anatra alla frutta and pic-cione alle mandorle; torta di perebiancomangiare dolce; cioccolatacalda aromatizzata alle spezie.4 DessertsI cantuccini e i frati fritti, il casta-gnaccio, le frittelle di riso, la schiacciata, il panforte, i riccia-relli, lo zuccotto
VENETO1 The Veneto traditional baccalà (dried salted cod): Il baccalà alla vicentina, il baccalàmantecato, il baccalà allaveneziana. Le polente.2 Vegetables The red radicchio tardivo ofTreviso and the variegated radic-chio of Castelfranco.
The Veneto asparagus: variousvarieties. The beans of Lamon.3 Traditional Venetian fishIl saòr, a method of conserving:sardines and sogliole in saòr, sea-sonal vegetables in saòr. Le sep-pie in nero, i bigoli in salsa.4 Meat La padovana (chicken) and lapolverara. The lamb of Alpago.
FRIULI1 Soups and minestroneVegetable and asparagus mine-strone, la iota and pumpkin soup2 Goose, the Jewish traditionof Saint DanielGoose as an alternative to porkThe different ways of preparation:brodo con ciccioli di oca, ovenbaked goose.3 FishSimple fish from the Adriatic Sea,their preparation, conservation,and recipes. Shellfish and crus-taceans. Boreto, insalata dimoscardini.4 Cuisine from Central EuropeA mix of food cultures fromAustria, Hungary, andSlovenia.The sweet and thesavoury, the spices. Dishes fromCarnia and from the valley ofNatisone. Cjarsons, il frico,salame nell’aceto, la brisa, gnocchi di susine.
SARDEGNA1 Pasta and soupsCulurgiones (ravioli with ricotta)suppa cuata, fregula cun cocciula,pani frattau. 2 FishAnguidda incasada, arangiola as’oristaneseBurrida a sa casteddaiaZimino di ostriche e aragosta.3 MeatPorceddu arrustiu, angioni in cassola cun cancioffa, busecca sacasteddaia, curcuris a ghisau. 4 Sardinian dessertsTrigu cottu, gattò (croccante),suppas indorada, seadas.
SICILIA1 Arabic cooking and couscousMarinated fish, tuna ofFavignana, swordfish, capersfrom Pantelleria, capers fromSalina.2 Street food from PalermoPanelle, arancine, sfincione,pane con la milza e ricotta Baroque cuisine from Palermoand Gattopardo cuisine:bucatini con le sarde, bucatini coni broccoli in tegame, timballi dipasta. La caponata and sweetand sour sauce.3 Wheat, oil, legumes andbread Broadbeans from Leonforte,lentils from Ustica.Black bread from Castelvetrano. Cheeses: ragusano, pecorino,maiorchino, piacentino, ricotta,vastedda della Valle del Belice.4 Sicilian DessertsLa cassata, i cannoli. Biscuitsfrom Ragusa and Catania, chocolate and carrube fromRagusa, il gelo di anguria, i sorbetti e le granite. Dried fruit:almonds from Noto, pistacchiofrom Bronte. Wine and “ossidati”for cooking: il Marsala
TRENTINO1 Mountain dishesSoups: orzetto, brò brusà, canederliBread gnocchi, strangolapreti, ciaronciè.2 Salami and meatLucanica, “salziza” and carne salada. Tonco de pontesei,gulasch, sguazetLa Selvaggina: cervo and capriolo3 Pasture and forest productsThe vegetables of the Gresta val-ley, flowers from Baldo and wildherbs, mushrooms and forestfruits and mountain cheeses.4 DessertsLa torta de fregoloti, il brazadel, lozelten.Traditional Trentino apple:strudel and fritters
Fast torrents of clear water
come down the sides of
the Alpine mountains that
run along the whole of the
Northern part of the region. They
supply six large lakes at the val-
ley bottom that widens out onto
green plains. Calm rivers run off
from the lakes, before throwing
themselves into the Po, dividing
into thousands of ditches and
channels which irrigate fertile
fields of cereal, beetroot and fod-
der for supplying a flourishing
production of milk.
Cows milk and cheese are
extremely important for the gas-
tronomy of the Lombardia region.
From the mountain pastures we
obtain the great cheeses such as
Bitto, Formai de mut and
Taleggio, and those of the plains:
Gorgonzola and Grana Padano.
Butter is the main condiment of
Lombardian cooking.
The serum plains, by- products
of the working of cheeses, feed
millions of the heavy Po valley
pig whose leg is seasoned for the
best Italian hams and whose
meat when flavoursomely left to
mould, becomes salami of a par-
ticularly whole bou-
quet. On the moun-
tains the art of con-
serving the meat is
characterised by the
making of Bresaola di manzoand the superb Violino di capra.
The presence of the Hebrew
community in this region has in
addition, made an interesting tra-
dition of salumi d’oca (goose)
flourish that is eaten raw or
cooked.
The cultivation of rice in nearly
all of the province has been
made possible by widespread
irrigation. Zuppe di ris, (rice
soup), riso e rape (rice with
turnip), riso e sedano (rice with
celery), riso e prezzemolo (rice
with parsley), riso e fegatini (rice
with liver) are only a few of the
innumerable dishes of which rice
is the main ingredient.
Lombardia is the only region of
Italy where rice has a gastronom-
ic importance much greater than
that of pasta and using its best
quality rice (the Vialone Nanoand the Carnaroli) a monumental
dish of Italian cuisine is made:
risotto. Pavia, Mantova and
Milan are fatherlands of the most
famous and sumptuous risottos:
alla milanese, alla certosina and
alla pilota.
Other cereals are protagonists of
the Lombardian table: the com-
mon wheat in the extreme south
of the region where the great tra-
dition of fresh pasta begins and
where the famous tortello dizucca is prepared; in the moun-
tain foot zone where we find
maize and where the polenta di
mais triumphs and finally on the
mountains we grow buckwheat
from which polenta taragna and
pizzoccheri are made.
In the more northerly zones
where fresh water runs, we find
carp, tench, eel and frogs.
Lombardian cuisine is rich with
dishes in which all of these fish
are used with great expertise.
The most frequently used meats
include that of the cow from
which ossobuco and cotolettaalla milanese are made, tripe,
from which busecca is prepared
and rustin negàa (roast tench).
Pork is used for the preparation
of cassöela (a type of rustic
choucrûte).
The wines of the region are pro-
duced in rather limited locations.
The great red in Valtellina, the
most refined Spumanti in
Franciacorta, white and red on
the morainic hills of
Lake Garda, and
sparkling and rustic
reds on the hills of
Oltrepo Pavese.
21
L O M B A R D I A
A region of lakes
and streams
Azienda Santa Barbara di Antonucci Stefano & C. s.n.c.
Borgo Mazzini, 35 • 60010 Barbara (AN) • Tel. (+39) 071 9674249 • Fax (+39) 071 9674263
www.vinisantabarbara.it • [email protected]
Gilberto Venturini
22
U M B R I A
Vines and olives have for
centuries symbolised the
Umbrian countryside located in
the geographic heart of Italy.
However, to get close to under-
standing the cuisine of this
region it is also necessary to
consider the great culture of
meats, game, vegetables and
truffles.
Umbria, a region where respect
for tradition is not just a simple
slogan. On the contrary, it is felt
throughout, in the countryside as
well as in the heart of both small
towns and the great art cities.
In fact, in the last half of the
century Umbria has perhaps
faced the flattening effects of
globalization better than others.
The people of Umbria have not
forgotten their own roots or
their cultural, artisan and social
traditions.
Here the Slow Food culture is
widespread from Orvieto to
Todi, from Castiglion del Lago
to the Città della Pieve. The tra-
ditions remain alive and are
renewed above all in the cui-
sine, where the local products
are the foundations of the typi-
cal menus of the different
zones.
Here, the cuisine sees the influ-
ence of both the noble courts
and the simple farmer and so
we must never think of Umbrian
Cuisine as being only rustic. On
the contrary, there are extreme-
ly diverse dishes present, inher-
ited from Etruscan, Roman,
Mediaeval and Renaissance
cuisine as well as that of the
nearby regions, Tuscany, Lazio,
the Marche and Romagna.
Relatively small in surface,
Umbria is blessed with a natu-
ral environment of high quality
land, air and water that con-
tributes to the success of agro-
alimentary production.
The ingredients for cooking are
in certain cases of the highest
ranking. This is the case with
the extra-virgin olive oil, with
the DOP of Umbria subdivided
into five areas from Trevi to
Orvieto. Typical products
include the salumi and the
numerous derivatives of pork
meat (capocolli, prosciutto,coppe di testa, mazzafegati,coralline, mortadelle, budellac-ci, etc), cheeses such as
pecorini, giuncate or the ricottaof Poggiodomo and legumes
such as the risina (rice) of
Trasimeno, the cicerchie (chick-
ling), the chickpea or the lentils
of Castelluccio (they were and
are the fundamental ingredients
of the Umbrian soups), mush-
rooms, truffles and cereals such
as wheat spelt.
Common vegetables include
the red potato of Colfiorito, the
onion of Cannara, the celery of
Trevi and the peas of Bettona,
and there are also the much-
appreciated aromas such as
saffron. Lamb, the chianinabreed of cow and the entire
range of game make popular
dishes.
With some differences from
zone to zone the Umbrian meat
experts and those that work at
the oven to make bread, pizzaand focacce represent a bit, the
fundamental traditions of this
region’s gastronomy.
A part of this discussion should
be reserved for the wine. Wine
such as the Sagrantino of
Montefalco, the OrvietoClassico, the Torgiano, the
wines of the hills of Trasimeno
or those of the Amerino, hardly
need presenting.
There are numerous bottles in
the local wine cellars that have
helped make wine-growing
Umbria known in Italy and the
world.
Pier Giorgio Oliveti
Land of olive oil
the cereals are wheat and
maize: from the white flour of
the first we obtain the tajarin, a
type of pasta that is as fine as
angel’s hair and from the yellow
flour of the second we make
polenta, an excellent side dish
for stewed meat and steamed
dishes. Agnolotto or ravioli,deserves a place of honour: it is
the excellent filled pasta of
Piemonte, distinguished from
place to place by the diversity
of the fillings and the shape;
square in Turin and Asti, al plin(pinched) in the Langhe.
In the Langhe and Monteferrato
areas in lower Piemonte, the
cuisine feels the influence
of the nearby Ligurian sea:
salted anchovies and the
Ligurian Ponente extra virgin
olive oil coupled with garlic
make a communal dish par
excellence, because it has to
be consumed in company: the
bagna caoda. In this simple
country sauce, the vegetables
of the plains are soaked in pinz-imonio (a dip made of olive oil,
pepper and salt): the cardoon,
gobbo of Nizza, the pepper of
Carmagnola and so on. As well
as the use of anchovies, we
must mention the salted cod
coupled with polenta. But the
Langhe wouldn’t be the same
without the
w h i t e
truffles of Alba, and Cuneo
wouldn’t be so notable without
its cheeses, among which are
the legendary Castelmagnoand the tasty Raschera.
From Cuneo to Pinerolo the
Alps faithfully preserve a
provincial cuisine which uses
mountain products to create
traditional dishes such as dun-deret, cursetin, supa barbeta,
and typical ingredients include
mushrooms, bilberries and
raspberries.
Finally we come to the
Piemonte desserts.
Besides the chocolate for
which Turin is without doubt
the historical capital, we find
the Garessio chestnut, the
round and noble hazelnut of the
Langhe and the corn flour of
Pamparato.
25
A long time ago, because of the
particular territorial conforma-
tion (and in part the continental
climate) a particular breed of
cattle called the Piemontese
was introduced to the region
starting the tradition of dishes
such as the vitello della coscia(leg of veal) from Alba and the
bue (beef) from Carrù, both of
which appear in many recipes.
Equally important are the ranedelle risaie (rice field frog) of
Vercelli, the asino (donkey) of
Borgomanero, the agnello alpi-no (alpine lamb) of Sambuco
and many farmyard animals
such as rabbit and cockerel.
Among the game and other
animals of the hunt are the
classic lepre in civet (hare),
fagiano in salmì (pheasant)
and cinghiale cotto nel vino(wild boar cooked in wine).
One of the most important
ingredients of the plains inclu-
de the rice that comes from
Vercelli, Biella and Novara,
which is used in risottos and
timbales. Other characteristic
dishes include dried sweets
and spoon desserts. Among
24
P I E M O N T E P I E M O N T E
From the alpine valleys
to the Po plainsArmando Gambera
Tounderstand the Piemonte cuisine you need to
study the geography of the region, because
the cuisine is profoundly influenced by the landsca-
pe. This territory is vast: it includes the Alpine range
that surrounds the north and west, the Apennines to
the south with the spurs of the Langhe and
Monferrato hills, and the Po plain in the centre and
to the east. The cuisine is therefore the expression of
various cultures and economies, resulting from its
basic products and a variety of culinary techniques.The Municipal Administration of Jesi provided theIstituto Superiore di Gastronomia (GastronomyHigh School) with a High Cuisine Cooking Systeminside the prestigious Palazzo Balleani, choosingZANUSSI PROFESSIONAL appliances.ZANUSSI PROFESSIONAL is a world-known trademark born at the beginning of the past century and specialised in professional appliancesfor preparation, cooking, refrigeration, distributionand washing processes. ZANUSSI, one of themost important company in the italian householdand industrial appliances market since its beginning,had its maximum growth and worldwideexpansion entering the Swedish Group ELEC-TROLUX in 1984. Today ZANUSSI PROFESSIO-NAL boasts of a wide distribution network of 200
sales and assistance agencies assuring a costant effective presence. Its programmes, strategies andinstruments makes it professional, skilled and reliable trademark. ZANUSSI’s entire process,from production to sales, is certified according toISO 9001 and ISO 14001 standard. More than3200 professional people in the food field,everywhere in the world, take part to the profes-sional stages organised by ZANUSSI every year.ZANUSSI PROFESSIONAL sales agenciesGIANNI MANZONI S.r.l. and SCIPILLITI S.n.c.sale agencies in Ancona and Falconara areas,gave their important technical and consulting contribution to the installation of the High CousineCooking System, making it suitable to differentcooking needs of any International Chef.
Gianni Manzoni S.r.l.
Via del Consorzio, 33
60015 Falconara M.ma (AN)
Ph. +39 071 9188478
Fax +39 071 9188675
Web Site: www.giannimanzoni.it
E.mail: [email protected]
Scipilliti S.n.c.
Via Achille Grandi, 7
60131 Ancona
Ph.+39 071 2865033 – 2865038
Fax +39 071 2865033
Web Site: www.scipilliti.com
E.mail: [email protected]
2726
Our expertcooks
Onthe following
pages we intro-
duce the cooks that will
teach at our school, rep-
resenting every region of
Italy, all with many years
of experience and above
all cultured in the food
and drink of their own
region. Slow Food signi-
fies the rediscovery of a
particular territory, the
richness and variety of
each region, tasting with
awareness and attention,
the pleasure of a good
spread and the defence of
biodiversity.
We have selected about
50 cooks from every cor-
ner of Italy, from the
north and south, some of
whom are experts in
pasta, others meat or
fish, but all of them love
presenting the cuisine of
their own region,
researching and collect-
ing the best of what has
been created over the
centuries.
ANTONIO TUBELLI
Antonio is a gastronomicresearcher, with a deep knowl-edge of the traditions of Naples.In 1987 he founded the restaurant‘Il Pozzo’ which is linked to theSlow Food circuit. For some timehe has promoted and followed anew initiative: to represent the oldcuisine of the streets, remember-ing Naples traditions of the “man-giamaccheroni” and the “friggi-tore”. His dishes: spume di pesceazzurro, timpano di scammaro,filetto di pesce al culìs di legumi.
MARCELLA CIGOGNETTI
Her first training as a cook tookplace in the kitchen at home.In 1989 she founded the OchinaBianca, a restaurant in the centreof Mantova with all the traditionaldishes of the Po Valley. In 2002 she left Ochina Bianca todedicate herself completely to therunning of Operaghiotta (theatre of taste) an organisationin which cooking and gastronomyare represented as a show.Operaghiotta is also the headoffice of the Convivium Slow Foodof Mantova. At Operaghiotta onecan participate in themed dinners,cookery courses, tasting sessionsand meetings where Marcella canbe seen working in person.
FRANCESCO SULTANO
Francesco has worked in hisrestaurant in Ragusa for 3 years.However, before stopping here,he trained step by step, includingsome lengthy periods abroad.Although open to innovation, hestill focuses on protecting the tra-ditions of his region.He loves to dig into the Bourbontraditions of the 1800’s, finding particular prime ingredients andchoosing the most appropriate oilfor each dish.
GALDINO ZARA
Galdino has always been anenthusiast of the wine and gastronomic history of his region,he has had experience in a vintage wine stockist at the beginning of the 80’s before starting work with the ovens.He is a versatile cook, who aboveall loves expressing himself withthe traditional dishes of theVeneto and Venice.He has participated in the SlowFood movement since its beginning and is a teacher in the Master of Food course.
PEPPE ZULLO
Peppe Zullo has always dreamt ofowning a restaurant and celebra-ting the dishes of his region. He loves aromatic herbs, selectswines and cheeses, looks for themost natural meats and prefershome-made pasta.Among the dishes he is noted forare his involtini di melanzana,orecchiette al sugo di cinghialeand capretto.The region of Puglia offers vegetables, meats, fish and highquality cheeses.
NINO FIGUS
Nino knows the Sardegna cuisineas few else do, how to interpret itand present it in an excellent way.He is a television presenter, runscourses and participates in com-petitions.He currently works at the restaurant Hibiscus diQuartu Sant’Elena.The dishes he prepares are verysimple but have intense flavours.They include: Sea fish soup, ravioli with red onion and goatcheese, bocconcini with lamb,seadas in an orange sauce andformaggelle of ricotta.
ANTONIO SANNA
Nino is not yet 40 years old andhas already accumulated a lot ofexperience in the kitchen and notonly at his home on the island.He knows his part of the country,Oristanese, very well and all ofthe traditional Sardinian cooking.He is frequently called upon torepresent and teach his cookingskills abroad as well as at home.A few of his dishes: zuppa dipesce e crostacei (fish and crustacean soup), macarones debusa, il capretto cotto a “pilau”(goat), tortino al formaggio earanzada (cheese cake andorange peel and honey).
GIUSEPPE BARBERO
In 1977 Giuseppe started on atour of Italian restaurants for newexperiences. In 1985 he returnedto Boccondivino (Bra). Here hededicates himself to the discoveryof Piemonte cuisine and in particular of the Langhe. Thereare certain characteristics toBarbero’s work: his search for thebest ingredients of the area, hisrespect for traditions and the cre-ation of menus connected to theseasons. The dishes are preparedin a rigorous and simple way.
ANTONIO GRAZIANO
Just outside of Palermo, on theroad to Agrigento, there is a prestigious restaurant calledMulinazzo. It is here that we findAntonio at work in the kitchen,deep in thought and study. Hehas many creations to offer, all ofan extremely high standard. Fishplay a big part in his repertoire,but all the Sicilian traditions find aplace on his menu: cuscus,macco di fava, minestra di aragosta (lobster soup), andthe best fish from the island. He also prepares delicious homemade desserts.
Ristorante Osteria dell’ArcoPiemonteThis restaurant is found in thecentral square of Alba, PiazzaSavona and is run by FirminiButtignol. In the kitchen we findDaniele Sandri who has workedfor many years and by his sidetwo other cooks: MaurizioDellapiana and Paola Pellegrino.Traditional dishes of the Langheare prepared with particularattention to the choice of rawingredients: il vitello piemonteseai tajaran (veal), agnolotti (typeof ravioli) lamb, panna cotta andbonet. It is frequented by thecream of the producers ofBarolo and the Barbaresco, aswell as foreign clientele.Theyhave an impressive wine-list.
Locanda San LorenzoVenetoA warm and welcoming restaurantThis is a restaurant and inn thatfor three generations hasbelonged to the Dal Farra family.It is located in a part of the mostbeautiful mountains, far fromtraffic, with a simple and sponta-neous welcome and a warmand familiar atmosphere.The cuisine is one of the best inthe region, based on the region-al traditions with an input ofinnovation and undertaken withgreat care.Among the dishes worth noting,we have the “Bagozia” soup,asparagus and sweetbread ravi-oli, perch, carré di agnello alrosmarino (lamb and rosemary)and semifreddo alle nocciole (anicecream cake with nuts)
Già sotto l’ArcoPugliaTeodosio and Teresa are themain characters of this restau-rant. They have taken it andmade it grow, day by day, withcontinuous research, from dish-es of wholesome regional rootsto more evolved and personal offerings.In the kitchen they work withextreme care while paying greatattention to their guests in thedining area.Here are some of their dishes:polenta di ceci (chick-peaspolenta), purea di fave e cicotia(bean and chicory puree), tortinodi coniglio (rabbit tart), barchettadi melanzana, (small boats ofaubergine/egg-plant), fagottinicon marmellata di fichi (smallsacks with fig marmalade).They also preparefish dishes.
Carpe DiemToscanaMontaione is a small town onthe hills of central Tuscany. Therestaurant ,attached to a smallhotel, faces onto the Elsa valleyin a beautiful panoramic posi-tion.The cuisine, characterised by
the pure Tuscan tradition, isundertaken with the greatest ofcare and with some innovation.Pasta and desserts are home-made and the meat andgame is typical of the region.Dishes that can be tried hereinclude: pappa al pomodoro epanzerotti, fagianella e carnechianina, funghi porcini e tartufo.They have a well-stocked winecellar.
Ristorante Al BorgoTrentinoSituated in the centre ofRovereto, in a building that wasonce a theatre, the restaurantowned by Dal Sasso is today atemple to cuisine of an extreme-ly high standard- Here it is pos-sible to find dishes that are typi-cal of the Trentino, interpretedwith great mastery: home-madebread and pasta, cernia incarpaccio, crostone di pane conporcini, lasagne con ragù dicervo, tortelli con animelle, con-trofiletto di cervo al ginepro, lin-gua di vitello tiepida con aceto dilampone.It has a good selection of wines.
La Bona UsanzaMarcheThis restaurant, attached to theHotel de’ Conti, is found on thepanoramic hills in the heart ofthe Marche. It is managed byGianfranco Mancini, preserverand popularizer of the mostauthentic traditions of theMarche cuisine and official rep-resentative since its beginning of the Slow Food movement.The restaurant entrusts the workin the kitchen to MarcoGiacomelli who cooks accordingto the best of traditions. Thisrestaurant is visited by expertsof gastronomy, by sommelier, by associates of Slow Food and by journalists.
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Those who attend the School of Italian Regional
Cooking, once finishing the 10-week course in Jesi,
have the possibility of taking part in work placements and
training at associated restaurants of Slow Food from all
over Italy.
All the restaurants are of a high quality where local cui-
sine is prepared, using only the freshest and most genuine
ingredients and where one can really learn the truest
Italian cuisine.
We hope to avoid cooking that puts priority on the appear-
ance of the food, where most attention is paid on its dec-
oration, neglecting natural flavours and aromas; those
who take part in these work placements will be able to
chose from various regions, meat or fish and the traditions
of the south or of the north.
In this edition we start to present to our readers some of
these restaurants.
Our work-placementrestaurants
MulinazzoSiciliaJust outside Palermo, Antonio and Sabinehave set up a wonderful restaurant.The cuisine found here is based on the greattraditions of the island. Starting with the fishone passes from classic traditional dishes torefined and researched dishes.The end of the meal is very well-cared forwith home-made desserts and has a large selection of wine.
L’Orcio InterratoToscanaMontopoli is a small town located on the hillsthat dominate the valley of the river Arno.In a small hotel here some of the cellarshave been converted into a restaurant, whereyou can soak up the ancient atmosphere andtaste the historic cuisine of renaissancerecipes and regional dishes. Luigi and Fulviaresearch and experiment with rigour and passion, selecting the best Pecorino, truffles,wines and extra Virgin olive oil.
Dear friends,We are delighted to send you
our newsletter to communicate
that on the 8th of January
2003 our school will start its
activities with the Slow Food
Master Italian Cooking course
at Jesi, in the Marches region.
With this new initiative, Slow
Food Italy aims to give valid
support to professional chefs
from abroad who wish to learn
about Italian cuisine in a
thorough way, focusing on
each region.
Italy is a country in which the
cuisine is strongly linked to the
traditions, history and people.
It is because of the differences
between regions that Italian
cuisine is so rich in variety.
This Slow Food cookery
course in Italy will also allow
new contacts to be made at
an international level and will
expand further in the future at
the University of Pollenzo.
In this edition of our newsletter
you can find further information
on the cooking programme, its
organisation and the didactic
methods that are inspired by
the Slow Food philosophy.
To all of you, dear
Convivium Leaders, we send
you this message along with
the names and addresses of
those who represent and
follow our organisational
activities and who can be
contacted for further
information.
30
Japan:Tokyo OfficeHIDE UCHIYAMA Ltd (Ms. Rieko Uchiyama)2-13-22 Shìmouma, Setagaya-kuTokyo-JAPAN
Florence OfficeJAPAN PROMO SERVICE (Mr. Aldo Fallani and Ms. RiekoUchiyama)Via C.Bianchi,[email protected]
United States:Francesco Tonelli (AssociateProfessor, The Culinary Instituteof America)46 Riverview- port Ewen12466-5104 New York- [email protected]
Australia:Michele Usci (President of theFederation for Italian Cooks of Australia)P.O. Box 211 Bullen3105 Victoria- [email protected]
To our Convivium Leaders in Japan, United States of America and Australia
Vineyards have existed in
the Marche for centuries,
The Piceni, Estruschi and the
Greek colonies cultivated them
here. But on the hills of the
central part of the region
around Jesi the principle wine
is called Verdicchio.
This name appeared for the
first time in a document dated
1569: Verdicchio is the name
of the vines, Verdicchio is also
the name of the wine.
Its commercialisation in Italy
and the whole world started in
the 50’s and all those who
drank it then remember its
characteristic bottle in the
shape of an amphora.
Since then everything has
changed, as in the other wine-
producing areas of the world:
in those days the wine was
rough, acidic and with a very
bitter finish.
The Verdicchio of today main-
tains its natural characteristics
(full-bodied, almost like a red,
with subtle acidic veins, nota-
ble alcoholic content and a
pleasant, somewhat bitter
finish) and every vine dresser
on the basis of this has
notable space to work on
improvements, presenting
elegant and refined wines,
among themselves very
different, also because another
characteristic of this vine is its
versatility.
From the Verdicchio we can
obtain splendid spumanti brut,
a pleasing white wine to
accompany fish dishes and
well-structured wines which
can be harmoniously coupled
with rich and flavoursome
dishes as well as with white
meats. There are white wines
to drink in their year of
production and white wines
that can be left to refine for
some years and finally, from
the Verdicchio grapes left to
dry on the vines, a sumptuous
sweet wine that in recent years
has caused great interest
among enthusiasts.
Everybody knows that
Verdicchio is not just any
ordinary white wine and in this
region the vine dressers are
proud to continue working
these splendid grapes; on
these hills you won’t find a
chardonnay or sauvignon, here
the Verdicchio is cultivated.
In recent years Verdicchio wine
has had many opportunities to
compete at an international
level against other whites and
has since held a high rank.
Such success has boosted the
enthusiasm of the producers,
already used to work requiring
tremendous patience, a virtue
of those who for centuries
have worked the land in this
region. Anyone enjoying the
hospitality of a producer’s
wine-cellar will be able to taste
highly-esteemed wines and
recognise the producer’s
determination to continue
experimenting and improving.
In this way Verdicchio has
become by far the most
well-known Marche wine on
the international market and
everyday demonstrates with its
best productions, whether the
Castelli di Jesi or in the
Matelica zone, to rival the top
wines of the world, often
surpassing other more
celebrated white wines.
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Verdicchio:a white wine of excellence
A course designed to know Italian cuisine, region for region.
Reserved for professionals from all over the world who cook Italian food.
A course that looks at the historical roots of the regional cooking of Italy:
from the North to the South and from the Alps to the Mediterranean.
A course to know the producers of quality food (pasta, wine, cheese, olive oil,
meat products...) and the gastronomic culture of each region.
A diploma that requires hard work and studyng, with the possibility of work experience
in each region of Italy at the end of the year.
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