DECE
MBE
R 2
012
www.thisisecuador.com
THE MOST COMPLETE GUIDE OF ECUADOR SINCE 1968
DECE
MBE
R 20
12TH
IS IS
ECU
ADOR
No 5
09 Portada 509_Layout 1 21/11/12 16:25 Page 1
Portada 509_Layout 1 21/11/12 16:25 Page 2
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PUBLISHEDMONTHLY BY
GUSTAVO VALLEJO P.Director
CAROLINA VALLEJOCover
CRISTINA VALLEJOEditor
MARÍA ELENA MALO Sales Director
[email protected] 9822 7499
BELEN MENADesign
SOLUCIONES GRAFICAS D&GLayout
IMPRENTA MARISCALPrinting
Quito: Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre
Phone: (593 2) 290-8200 / 255-2177
Guayaquil: Padre Aguirre 104 y Malecón Ed. Fortín 4to. PisoPhone: (593 9) 9858-4053
www.exploringecuador.com
Visit our website and virtual magazine at:
www.thisisecuador.com
This is Ecuador is protectedby law as intellectual property.Registration No. 9, page 3422;
February 25, 1969. Total orpartial reproduction as well
as the use of photographs mustbe authorized by
Gustavo Vallejo Pérez.
DEC
EMBE
R 2
012
www.thisisecuador.com
THE MOST COMPLETE GUIDE OF ECUADOR SINCE 1968
This Month’s Cover
Illustration inspired in marzipan figurines, handcrafted in thetown of Calderon, 15 km (9 miles) North of Quito. These colorfulhandcrafts can be found at many Christmas Handcraft Fairs inthe Quito, or you can visit the town of Calderón to see theartisans at work. For more information see page 61.
Editor’s Note
This is Ecuador is a complimentary guide. It should not be sold by anymeans. All of the tourist sites that appear on this magazine have beenvisited by our editors. Moreover, our commercial staff has previouslyevaluated the tourist services that appear on our publication. If any ofthese services does not meet your expectations, please let us know.
Read our entire guide at www.thisisecuador.com. You can learn about ourwonderful country and book premium services through our e-guide.
Comments/suggestions: [email protected] Phone number in Quito: (593 2) 290- 8200We appreciate your opinion.
4
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Welcome to Ecuador 6General Travel Information 8Land Distances 10Road Map 11Embassies & Consulates List 12Handmade in Ecuador 15Made in Ecuador 18Native Cultures 20Map 21National Protected Areas 22Map 23
GalapagosGeneral information 26Map 29This Month in Galapagos 31Premium Services 33
CoastGeneral information 36Ecuadorian Coastline 37Map 39Premium Hotels 40This Month’s Recommended 42Guayaquil 44This Month:Culture & Entertainment 51Map 52Premium Hotels 54Restaurants 58
AndesGeneral information 60This Month’s Traditions 61Premium Haciendas 62
Nor thern Andes 64Map 65Premium Services 67Quito 68This Month:Culture & Entertainment 77Premium Services 79Premium Hotels 81Map 84Restaurants 90Food & Drinks 93Central Andes 95Map 97Premium Services 98Southern Andes 100Map 101Cuenca 103Cuenca’s surroundings 107Map 108Premium Hotels 110Restaurants 112Premium Services 113Loja 114Premium Hotels 115Map 116A Birder’s Paradise 118
AmazoniaGeneral information 120Important tips andrecommendations 121Premium Lodging 122
Initiative Yasuni- ITT 122Ecuador by Train 124
CONTENTS
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TIE REVISTA 509_Layout 1 23/11/12 15:14 Page 5
GOVERNMENT: Democratic.Current President is EconomistRafael Correa Delgado.
CLIMATE: The climate throughoutthe country ranges from tropicalequatorial rain in the Amazon toperpetual snow on the top of themountains. Cities in the highlandshave temperatures that vary from50ºF to 70ºF, while coastal cities’temperatures vary from 60ºF to80ºF during the day. The weather inthe jungle is constant: rainy, humidand warm. The Galapagos Islandsare sunny and warm during themonths of December-May; the tem-perature drops from June toNovember.
WHAT TO WEAR:• In Quito and the highlands the
weather is very unpredictable. Acommon saying is that you canlive the four seasons in one day:from intense sun to hail. Oneneeds to look out the windowbefore deciding what to weareach day. During June, July andAugust the weather is sunnierbut windy. During the rest of theyear you need warmer clothingsuch as what you would wearduring the fall. A raincoat orjacket is useful all year long,since at night it gets prettychilly.
Ecuador has the greatest biodiversityper area in the world! In a study byConservation International, Ecuadorranked among the 17 “MegaDiverse” countries, alongside theUnited States, China, Australia, Braziland Mexico. With 9.2 species perkm2, it occupies the first place in theworld in regards to species per area.
The richness of Ecuador lies in itsDIVERSITY, both natural and cultural.Ecuador has 4 diverse and uniqueregions: the Amazon Rainforest, thehighland Andes, the Coast, and theGalapagos Archipelago. These four regions are subdividedinto provinces. Besides its exuberantbiodiversity, Ecuador is home to animpressive variety of ethnic groups,including communities which stillpractice ancient cultural traditions(for more information see page 20).
LOCATION: Ecuador is one of thesmallest countries in America. It lieson both the Northern and theSouthern Hemispheres and is divid-ed by the Equator, thus the name ofthe country.
It borders Colombia (North), Peru(South and East), and the PacificOcean (West).
AREA: about 270.670 km2 or168.186 square miles.
DISTANCE FROM NORTH TO SOUTH: 1.081 km or 672miles.
POPULATION: approximately 14million.
LANGUAGE: The first language isSpanish, however, most of theindigenous population speaksQuichua. There are 18 different lan-guages among native communities.
PROVINCES:- Galapagos- Coast: Esmeraldas, Manabi, Los
Rios, Guayas, Santa Elena, El Oro.- Andes: Carchi, Imbabura,
Pichincha, Santo Domingo de losTsáchilas, Cotopaxi, Tungurahua,Bolivar, Chimborazo, Cañar,Azuay and Loja.
- Amazonia: Sucumbios, Napo,Orellana, Pastaza, MoronaSantiago and Zamora Chinchipe.
RELIGION: 95% Catholic.
CURRENCY: American Dollar. TheEcuadorian government has alsoproduced a series of local coins thathave the same value as the U.S.coins (which are also accepted).Banks are open from 9h00 to 17h00and on Saturdays only half day.Money exchange is offered every dayin main hotels.
6
TIE REVISTA 509_Layout 1 23/11/12 15:14 Page 6
• Be careful any time you go to anATM; it’s better if you go duringthe day.
• Don’t let strangers offer youaccommodation. Consult a travelagency.
MOUNTAIN CLIMBING
ASEGUIM is the association ofmountain climbing guides ofEcuador. We recommend that if youplan to do mountain climbing atany level, you contact them toaccess professional and certifiedguides. They also offer rescueoperations. Phone: (02) 222-2954,cel 099 9822 363, www.aseguim.org
OFFICE OF TOURISM PUBLIC PROSECUTOR:
The highest duty of the EcuadorianRepublic is to respect and supporthuman and personal rights; theyoffer judicial safety to tourists whovisit the country. It is free. Monday thru Friday from 8h00 to12h00 and from 14h00 to 18h00.
Quito: 02 2905-053Guayaquil: 04 2320-685Cuenca: 07 2844-282Galapagos, Santa Cruz Island: 05 2526-048Loja: 07 2572-668Puyo: 03 2883-767
• Guayaquil and other coastal cities:wear summer clothing all yearround. During the rainy months,December to May, the weather isstill very warm. During the monthsof June through November theweather is cloudy and a bit colder.Bring along a light jacket.
• Galapagos: wear comfortablewalking shoes and casual cloth-ing. Shorts, t-shirts and summerclothing will be just fine. Don’tforget a hat, a camera, sun block,and a bathing suit. During themonths of June to November theweather is cloudy and a bit cold-er. Bring along a light jacket.
• Amazon or Jungle: wear clothingsuitable for rain. If you can getyourself a raincoat (poncho), takeit with you, as well as several setsof light pants and long sleeveshirts. Shorts are less usefulbecause of the insects and abun-dant vegetation that you will walkthrough on your excursions. A hat,rubber boots and insect repellentare also a must.
TOURIST VISA: Visitors can stayup to 90 days without a visa.
TAXI RATES: Approximately $3 to$6 per ride from the airport to thecity. These rates vary among themain cities.
TRANSPORTATION: Main cities(Guayaquil, Quito and Cuenca)
have local airports serviced by thelocal airlines: Tame, Aerogal andLan, in addition to international air-lines. Bus lines offer land transporta-tion where you can just jump on thenext bus leaving to your destination.Each city has its own terminal, withfrequent departures to each one ofthe different provinces of Ecuador.(For more information see page 8).
SUGGESTIONS FOR A PLEASANT STAY
While the authorities are clearlymaking significant efforts, it’s nec-essary to take some precautions. Wesuggest some recommendations:
• Don’t walk at night in badly litareas.
• Leave documentation and valua -ble things in your hotel room orin the safety deposit boxes.
• Carry your backpack at the front,especially if you are carrying aphoto camera.
• Whenever you sit at a coffeeshop, restaurant, Internet cafe,phone booth or any open space,keep your things next to you.
• Be aware if someone comes sus-piciously too close to you.
• Don’t allow any stranger to enterinto your room.
• It’s recommended not to visit anyplaza too late at night.
• If you travel on a bus, don’treceive any candy or papers fromstrangers.
• When you are at the airport, pay special attention to yourbelon gings.
7
TIE REVISTA 509_Layout 1 23/11/12 15:14 Page 7
GENERAL TRAVEL
INFORMATION
8
1-800 2376425
397-0370 / 71 259-8060 / 2169-240
262-5895 / 262-2577
1800-842526
227-3686
225-7533 / 4
330-0979
600-4459/08176-2340
225-4258/330-0783
228-9509
213-0265257-0884
1800-842526
216-9081
216-9051 / 216-9052
230-3211
251-7622
268-7566/216-9023
284-2970
280-0405/281-5250
1800-842526 1800-842526
1800-842526 1800-842526
1800-500800
1800-842526 1800-842526410-3104
1800-008222 1800-008222 1800-008222
284-5657
255-9428/382-4751
Quitumbe:
Carcelén:
Taca
United
381-4810213-0372
381-4840
382-4793 / 813
247-2751
213-0314
286-7120
213-0649
283-5717
382-4850/382-4875222-5315/382-4831
Avis Rent a Car
Freedom Bike Rental
213-0638282-3060
397-7100
601-6000601-6000601-6000 601-6000
262-8899
262-0963
/ 258-2482 256-1628 283-2132 262-4212
LOCAL AIRLINES
INTERNATIONAL AIRLINES
LAND TRANSPORTATION
CAR RENTALS
BIKE RENTALS
USEFUL NUMBERS
TIE REVISTA 509_Layout 1 23/11/12 15:14 Page 8
TIE REVISTA 509_Layout 1 23/11/12 15:14 Page 9
CITY
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ROAD
MAP
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Quito - 593 2 Guayaquil - 593 4 Cuenca - 593 7
Argentina
Austria
Belgium
Brazil
Canada
Chile
Colombia
Costa Rica
Egypt
France
Germany
Great Britain
Israel
Italy
Japan
Korea
Mexico
Peru
Russia
Spain
Switzerland
U.S.A.
Uruguay
Venezuela
Amazonas Ave. 477 & Roca Phone 2562292
Gaspar de Villarroel E9-53 &Av. de Los ShyrisPhone: 2469700República Del Salvador 1082 &Naciones Unidas / Phone: 2276145 /2273910 / 2273338
Amazonas N39-123 & José ArizagaPhone: 2277000Av. Amazonas N41-53 & UNPEdificio Eurocenter 3rd floor Ph: 2455499 / Fax: 2277672
Juan Pablo Sanz 3617 & AmazonasEdif. Xerox / Phone: 2453327
Atahualpa 955 & RepúblicaEdificio Digicom Phone: 2458012
Javier Arauz III y Germán AlemánPhone: 2252330 / Fax: 2252330
Tarqui E4-56 & 6 de DiciembrePhone: 2225240 / 2509501
General Leonidas Plaza 104 & PatriaPhone 2943800
Naciones Unidas Edif. City Plaza,14th floor / Phone: 2970820
Naciones Unidas Edif. City Plaza14th floor / Phone: 2970800 / 801
Av. Coruña E25-58 & San IgnacioEdif.Atana 5th floor / Phone: 3971500 / 55
La Isla 111 & Humberto AlbornozPhone: 2561077-4
Amazonas Ave. N39-123 &Arízaga / Phone: 2278700
Ave. 12 de Octubre & Cordero Edif.WTC Tower B 3th floor / Ph. 2909227
Av. 6 de Diciembre N36-165 & NNUU / Phone: 2923770 / 71
República Del Salvador N34-361 &Irlanda / Phone: 2468410 / 11 / 04
Reina Victoria 462 & RocaPhone: 2526361 / 2554510
La Pinta 455 & AmazonasPhone: 2555733 / 3226296
Amazonas N35-17 & Juan Pablo SanzEdif. Xerox 2nd floor / Phone: 2434949
Avigiras E12-170 & Eloy Alfaro Phone: 3985000
Av. 6 de Diciembre 2816 &Paul Rivet / Phone: 2563762
Ave. Amazonas 30-240 & E. AlfaroPhone: 2557209 / 2554483
Circunvalación Sur 718 &Guayacanes (Urdesa) / P: 2384886
José A. Campos (Zaruma) 101 &García Avilés / Phone: 2310505
C.C. Dicentro Locales 33-34Ph: 2277065 / 6017484
Ave. Juan Tanca Marengo & Ave. J. Orrantea / Ph: 2158333
Ave. 9 de Octubre & MalecónEdif. La Previsora 23th floorOf. 2303 / Phone: 2562-995
Francisco de Orellana, Edificio WTCTorre B / Phone: 2630674
José Mascote 909 & Hurtado Phone: 2328442
Ave. Las Monjas #10 & Carlos JulioArosemena Edif. Berlin / Ph: 2206867 - 8
Gral. Cordova 623 & Padre SolanoPhone: 2560400 / 2563850
Av. 9 de Octubre 729 & BoyacáPhone: 2534503
P. Icaza 423 entre Córdoba & B.Moreno / Phone: 2568358 / 62
Km. 11.5 Vía DaulePhone: 2100600 ext 212
Francisco de Orellana WTC Bdg.Tower B / Ph. 2630774 / 75
Francisco de Orellana 501 Edif. Centrum14th floor / Phone: 2280135 / 2280114
Av. del Bombero Km. 7 1/2 vía lacosta Phone: 2991853
Velez & Tungurahua EsquinaPhone: 6017460
Juan Tanca Marengo Ave. Km 1.8Phone: 2599900 Ext. 034
9 de Octubre Ave. & García MorenoPhone: 2323570 / 2327663
Junín 114 & MalecónPhone:2311058 / Fax: 2563952
Chile 329 & AguirrePhone: 2326600 / 2326579
Gill Ramirez Dávalos 1434 yTuruhuaico / Phone: 4089054
Ave. José Peralta & 12 de AbrilEdif. Acrópolis Phone: 4103630
Gran Colombia 661 MezaninePhone: 2837693
Bolivar 918 & Benigno MaloPhone: 2822783 / 2838836
Gran Colombia & Luis CorderoEdif. El Dorado / Phone: 2832807
Ave. Las Monjas N.10 & CarlosArosemena Edif. Hamburgo P.B.Phone: 2208777 - 769
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EMBASSIES &CONSULATES
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HANDMADEIN ECUADOR
TheTransformingPowers ofMasks
By Carolina Matheus,for Olga Fisch Folklore.
Why are masks a universal form ofexpression throughout the entire worldsince ancient times? From pre-Colombian shaman ritual masks, toNoh theater masks in feudal Japan,there seems to be something alluring
about covering one’s face and adopt-ing multiple forms of expression.Maybe it’s because behind a maskone can be transformed, adopt a newpersonality, and behave without socialconventions and inhibitions. As onegraphic design artist notes: “In manycommunities, masks played a majorrole in rites of passage and in spiritu-al rituals, often as symbols of victoryin war or of dominion over nature.Masks are also used for theater,movies, and during holiday celebra-tions. Others are more mysterious...and make us wonder about the mask’screator, wearer, and its purpose.”
Ecuador is no exception. A wide arrayof colorful handmade masks for sever-al festivities can be found. Perhaps themost interesting, because of their sym-bolism and popularity are the “AñoViejo” and the “Corpus Christi” masks.
AÑO VIEJO: BETTER LUCK NEXT YEAR!During the 31st of December, all ofEcuador becomes a sea of smoke,fire, and ashes. This because of anodd tradition, in which Ecuadoriansconstruct large effigies representingpolitical figures, or other famouspeople, which are burned to theground, while firecrackers blast.Often, a handwritten note is pinnedto the dummy explaining all theregrets and disappointments fromthe past year which must be elimi-nated. Others read the dummy’s“will” which are usually very cleververses recalling events of the year.Meanwhile, one may be shocked tosee the dummy’s’ “widows” (mendressed in drag), “crying” and ask-ing for money to compensate for theloss of their husband, the old year. Insome regions, a “new year” effigy of
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a child is placed next to the NewYear as a symbol of hope. This ritualis charged with symbolism. It is avirtual “catharsis” in which the old isabolished, and amidst the ashes,hope of the birth of a better, NewYear, is born.
RECYCLED PAPERA key aspect of the effigies is themask which must embody politicalfigures, journalists, or internationalfigures. How are the paper masksmade? It would seem a simpleprocess since the masks are ratherrustic. However, in order to allow themasks to take shape, a clay mold, orvirtually a clay sculpture must firstbe made. Next, brown paper bagsrecycled from remains of sugar bagsare combined with 8 layers of oldnewspaper glued together withyucca (a potato-like root) starch tomake a kind of glue, for the papermaché. Then, the mask is dried andwhite paint is added to hide thenewspaper print. The artisans thenpaint the mask bringing the figuresto life. Finally, a varnish is added togive it some shine. Now they are
ready! Throughout the streets oncecan see vendors selling an eerie dis-play of presidents, next to a FidelCastro or a George Bush, and recent-ly, even Shrek or Tweety Bird, staringsadly, waiting to be burned.
A “SELF-MADE” MANWho makes these masks and howdid this tradition get started? Its ori-gins are obscure. Some say it mayhave Pre- Colombian origins. At anyrate today, there are artisans whospecialize in keeping the traditionalive. This is the case of VicenteParedes, a barber/artists who hasbeen making several types of maskssince 1971. How did a barber end upmaking masks? It all started when hewas forced to leave home at onlythirteen years old, when his motherbecame a widow with seven chil-dren! He came to Quito to find hisfortune, and worked as the under-study of a barber. As the years wentby, he was able to start his own bar-ber shop. Traditionally, masks for theend of the year festivities werealways sold in barber shops. Oneyear the prices of the mask were too
high, and he ventured out to makehis own masks. After decades ofexperimenting, and making a mess,he now has a costume store, with alltypes of masks, from paper maché tofiber glass, adjacent to his barbershop. During December, the masksare sold at the shop, and to othervendors who resell throughout Quito.Artisans like Mr. Paredes, help keepthis tradition alive.
LET’S DANCE FOR THE BODY OF CHRIST!Another popular mask made inEcuador is one used by the CorpusChristi, dancers in June throughoutmost of the villages of the highlands.The Corpus Cristi festivities are partof the Catholic religious calendarwhich commemorates the Body ofChrist. In our country, it has becomesa colorful synthesis of Spanish andindigenous traditions in which aCatholic mass, music bands, fire-works, and most of all dancing, isintertwined. Perhaps the most famousof the Corpus celebrations takesplace in Pujili village, (near Ambato).The protagonists are the dancers
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which have beautiful costumes andhead pieces, and of course, a mask.These masks are rather simple incomparisons to the elaborate head-pieces. They are made out of wiremesh in a double press mold, paint isadded to make simple features whichusually represent a white man. Amustache from pig hair is added, atit’s ready. However, this simple maskhas the amazing quality. It totallytransforms the facial features, while at
the same time leaving air to breathefreely. The dancer can adopt a newpersonality, free of social conven-tions. Also the mesh gives enough airto breath, which is very helpful for adancer who is performing all dayunder the summer sun!
In our daily life we have learned toput on several masks. We act happywhen we are sad or vise versa. AsAsian Art museum curator Hiroshi
Sugimoto reflects: “The face is thesight of human emotions. We mighteven say each of us becomes a per-son by mastering the highly special-ized skills required to express emo-tions by means of our facial instru-mentation…. as the mind changesconstantly: so does the mask.” In thecase of Ecuador, the Old Year mask,as well as the Corpus Cristi masks,allows us to facilitate a transforma-tion process. Whether it be castingoff negativity from the past, or freeingus to dance without inhibitions, themask still remains an important sym-bolic object in Ecuadorian folklore.
Sources:• Interview: Vicente Paredes.• Bob Ibold
www.masksoftheworld.com.• Albuja, Ana. Enciclopedia de
Fechas Cívicas y Festividades deEcuador, Cultural Ediciones:Madrid. 2007.
Photographs:Iván Ceballos
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MADE INECUADOR
Fine AromaEcuadorianChocolate:A Delight to the Senses!Within the world of chocolate, CacaoArriba is one of the most valuablefine aroma cacaos. This delicate fruithas been cultivated for over one hun-dred years in Ecuador thanks to itsexquisite flavor and aroma. Althoughfew countries in the world can offer anative cacao of such high quality asCacao Arriba, national agriculturehas reduced its allotted farm land,favoring inferior varieties or alterna-tive crops.
Facing these threats República delCacao was born, a brand focused on
the production and marketing of darkchocolates made exclusively withCacao Arriba.
The development, investigation anddetermination of the brand is not onlyfocused on the production of high qual-ity chocolates, but extends into thefields and the joint effort undertaken bywell over 1,800 farmers in the technifi-cation, care and improvement of farm
production and living standards of thosewho care for the future of Cacao Arriba.
Thanks to the creation of a gatheringcenter on the province of Los Ríos,República del Cacao, separates theseed according to its origin, to thenbe fermented in cherry wood drawersand sun-dried following traditionaltechniques, before beginning itstransformation into chocolate.
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As part of the progress of CacaoArriba, the brand has created achocolate bar focused on the pro-ducing community of Vinces,assigning 10% of the net profits fromeach bar to the improvement andmodernization of the lands owned bythis group of farmers.
The effort of República del Cacao inthe commercialization of their choco-lates, as well as that of Ecuadorianproducts of the highest quality, ismade through its Chocolate-Boutiques. Their main store, located inQuito, in the intersection of ReinaVictoria and Joaquín Pinto streets,also offers Cacao Arriba based dishes.
The promotion of the brands’ productsto local and international consumersextends itself to two stores located atthe international airport exits in Quitoand Guayaquil, showcasing the pro-duction process, the achievementsaccomplished by the country’s CacaoArriba community and the quality ofthe products for sale.
The endeavor and relationship ofRepública del Cacao, the cacao farm-ers and its clientele is focused on thequality of its products, communitydevelopment and the trust that eachchocolate that reaches the final cus-tomer reflects the work and passionthat a group of Ecuadorians has set forthe present and future of their country.
The legend of Cacao Arriba BeansThe origins of the name “Arriba”given to the “Fine Aroma”Ecuadorian cacao come from a XIX
century legend that tells us about aSwiss chocolatier that while navigat-ing along Guayas River, perceived astrong cacao scent. He felt soimpressed by such special fragrancethat he decided to ask some workersunloading cacao from their canoes,where does this aroma come from?They responded, “de río arriba”which means “from up the river”.Since then, this variety of cacao isworldwide known as “Arriba”becoming synonym for high qualityand fine aroma cacao.
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America, erroneously called the“new” world, has a rich and ancientcultural tradition that is known aspre-Columbian. The conqueringSpaniards saw the ethnic groups thatstill inhabit Ecuador today as “prim-itive”. In fact many people have ahard time understanding NativeAmerican culture. The XVI centurySpanish tried to eradicate indige-nous beliefs and customs.Fortunately, many ethnic groupsretain their traditional way of life andbelief systems. In the colonial era,the Spaniards imposed Catholicism.To this day, many of the indigenouscultures have adopted this faith.However, they maintain their originallanguage, dress and artistic expres-sions. Especially in the rain forest,many ethnic groups are still isolatedand have little contact with Westernculture, and to this day, they main-
tain a way of life similar to that oftheir ancestors from over 500 yearsago. In Ecuador, when we speak ofmega-diversity we speak not only ofour magnificent biological world, butwe also refer to the human factor.Our ethnic diversity is rich, withcharacteristics influenced by the nat-ural environment of the Coast, theHighlands and the Rainforest.
THE CULTURES OF THE COASTThe oldest known cultures ofAmerica lived on the Ecuadoriancoast (8800 to 3500 B.C.). The cul-tures that subsist practically intact tothis day are: the Awá, the Chachis orCayapas and the Tsachilas orColorados. They live in the tropicalrainforest of the west Andes andpossibly settled there after escapingfrom the Incan invasion from Peru(XV C) or from the Spaniards (XVI C).
THE AMAZONIAN CULTURESMany archeologists maintain thatsome of the oldest cultures (over10,000 years old) are actually fromthis tropical humid rainforest,impossible to reach for many cen-turies. In the “cosmology” of theseindigenous groups, the human beingis a part of the “Amazanga” (rainfor-est) and the human spirit wanders inthis forest every dawn. The humanspirit can enter an eagle or a serpentor a jaguar, each one a symbol fortheir nature, according to theirbeliefs. The rainforest provides theirfood, medicinal plants, and spiritualrichness. To these people, the tropi-cal rainforest is their home, theirdrugstore, their supermarket, andtheir church; thus their utmostrespect for their environment.
They are, according to modern worldeconomical standards very poor.However, they have a rich spiritual
NATIVECULTURES
ECUADOR’S MOSAIC
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Sto. Domingode los TsáchilasSto. Domingode los Tsáchilas
Sta. Elena
AwaChachis
ShuarTsáchila
HuancavilcasÉpera
Negro-afroecuatorianoCofán
SecoyaSionaHuaoraniAshuarQuichuas del orienteMantasZáparoQuichuas de la sierra
life and live in peace surrounded bytheir families, taking from natureonly what they need for survival andtaking time to meditate and enlight-en themselves. To share a few dayswith them is an incredibly enrichingexperience.
THE HIGHLANDSThe cultures of the highlands are byno means the oldest, but they are themost visited and well known, proba-bly because of their geographical
location with easy access by roadsand highways. Many communitiesthat live in the highlands still main-tain their cultural manifestationsthrough dress, language (Quichua),and festivities. Just 62 miles north ofQuito you can visit the Otavalo IndianMarket, a must see for any touristthat comes to Ecuador. This marketoffers wonderful weavings, tapestry,rugs, bags, artwork and other prod-ucts made by the indigenous com-munity. These people are hardwork-
ing, skillful, and artistic. Familieswork together and then sell theirwork at the fair. Transactions takeplace quietly with bargaining on theside of the tourist. These are veryproud people who have not lost theircultural identity despite the fact thatmestizos and whites inhabit the cityof Otavalo. The Otavaleños travel allaround the world selling their goods.
NATIVECULTURES’DISTRIBUTIONMAP
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With its relatively small territory(109.483 square miles), 0.17% of theplanet’s land surface, Ecuador wasranked one of the 17 most biodiversecountries in the world.
Ecuador holds more than 11% of allthe land vertebrates in the world(mammals, birds, amphibians andreptiles), 16.087 vascular plantspecies and approximately 600species of marine fish. There is stilla lot to learn about Ecuador’s diver-sity, especially concerning inverte-brates and microorganisms. Amongthe “mega diverse” countries,Ecuador holds the greatest biodiver-sity of land vertebrates per area.
WHAT IS THE REASON FOR ALL THIS DIVERSITY?Firstly, the Andes mountain rangedividing the country from North toSouth; secondly, Ecuador’s geo-
graphical location at the Tropic ofCancer, the warmest region of theplanet; and finally, the influence oftwo oceanographic phenomenons:“El Niño”, the warm and humity cur-rent that comes from the North, andthe “Humboldt” current, whichcomes from the South and is coldand dry.
On the following pages, you will finda brief description of Ecuador’sNational Parks. You can locate theseParks on the map on the followingpage. As you may see on the map,besides these National Parks,Ecuador is home to an additional 21National Protected Areas. The coun-try also includes other important pri-vate protected areas and naturalsites.
Two of Ecuador’s National Parks weredeclared “World Heritage Natural
Sites” by the UNESCO: the GalapagosArchipelago and the Sangay NationalPark (Amazonian region).
1. MACHALILLALocated in the province of Manabí,Machalilla takes its name from oneof the pre-Columbian cultures thatinhabited this area. The Valdivia,Chorrera and Manteña Cultures alsolived in this land of mild climate andextraordinary landscape. One canstill visit archeological sites withinthe park. We especially recommendAgua Blanca and Salango. The parkoccupies 136,000 acres. Its yearlyaverage temperature is 75ºF.The influence of the HumboldtCurrent in the Pacific conserves theamazing tropical humid and drytropical forests.
One of the main attractions of thepark is “Isla de la Plata” (Silver
NATIONAL PROTECTED
AREASAMAZING + DIVERSE
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PROTECTEDAREAS
PERU
COLOMBIA
1. Machalilla National Park2. Sumaco Napo Galeras National Park3. Yasuni National Park4. Cotopaxi National Park5. Llanganates National Park6. Sangay National Park7. Cajas National Park8. Podocarpus National Park9. Galapagos National Park10. Limoncocha Biological Reserve11. Galapagos Marine Reserve12. Antisana Ecological Reserve13. El Angel Ecological Reserve
14. Cayambe-Coca Ecological Reserve15. Cayapas-Mataje Ecological Reserve16. Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve 17. Los Ilinizas Ecological Reserve18. Mache Chindul Ecological Reserve19. Manglares-Churute Ecological Reserve20. Pululahua Geo-botanic Reserve21. Cuyabeno Wildlife Reserve22. Chimborazo Wildlife Reserve23. Pasochoa Wildlife Refuge24. El Boliche Recreational Park25. Santa Clara Island Wildlife Refuge26. El Condor Bi-national Park
27. Cofan-Bermejo Ecological Reserve28. La Chiquita Wildlife Refuge29. Rio Muisne Mangroves Wildlife Refuge30. Corazon Island Wildlife Refuge31. El Salado Mangroves Wildlife Reserve32. Arenillas Ecological Reserve33. Parque Lago Recreational Area34. El Zarza Wildlife Refuge35. El Quimi Biological Reserve36. El Morro Mangroves Wildlife Refuge37. Esmeraldas River Mangroves Estuary Wildlife Refuge38. Pacoche Coastal-Marine Wildlife Refuge39. Fauna Production Coastal Marine Reserve Puntilla de Santa Elena 40. Galeras-San Francisco Marine Reserve41. Yacuri National Park42. National Recreational Area Santay Island43. Pambilar Wildlife Refuge44. National Recreational Area Los Samanes
34
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Island). It was named at the end ofthe XVI century, when the pirateFrancis Drake took treasures fromSpanish ships and hid them on thissite. “Plata” means silver, but it isalso how Ecuadorians commonlyrefer to money. According to thelegend, much of this treasure wasnever claimed and is still hiddenhere. The Island is surrounded bycoral reefs, so the marine life isexciting and plentiful.
You will find some excellent scuba-diving services here.
The Island has two guided hikingroutes, both with awesome sights.You will find a rare colony of blue-footed boobies, masked boobies,frigate birds and albatrosses, as wellas interesting plant life. Guides arewell versed on the subject.To visit the park, one must purchasea 5-day pass for a fee of 25 dollars.With this ticket you can visit all thesites of the National Park.
2. SUMACO-NAPO-GALERAS
With a surface of 507,181 acres, thisNational Park houses a wide diversityof ecosystems, ranging from highmountains to cloud and lowlandforests. The park’s altitudes rangefrom 1,968 to 12,792 feet. The Napo-Galeras mountain range has variousrivers and springs running through itsdeep valleys. The Sumaco volcano(12,792 feet) stands isolated fromthe rest of the Andes and is sur-rounded by lowland forest. ThisNational Park is rich in animalspecies, including spectacle bear,bats, marsupials, armadillos, guams,and many bird, reptile and amphibianspecies. The most common plantsfound are cedar, canelo, and rubbertrees. Native Indian Quichua commu-nities and the archeological sites of
the Cosanga culture are found closeto this National Park. UNESCOdeclared the area surrounding theSumaco volcano a “BiosphereReserve” in the year 2000.
3. YASUNI
Yasuni is located in the NapoProvince. With an extension of2,426,281 acres, it is an importantbiogeographical area where endemicspecies of plants and animals havebeen preserved since the PleistocenePeriod (20,000 BC). According toUNESCO, more than 700 plantspecies have been identified,together with 500 bird species and200 different animals. The NapoRiver is the main access to the park.Recently, the Huaorani Indians wholive here, together with environmen-talists, have raised internationalawareness regarding the controversialpetroleum exploration of this area.
4. COTOPAXI
The Cotopaxi National Park is namedafter the highest active snow-cappedvolcano in the world (19,347 ft). It islocated 37 miles from Quito. ThePark includes 83,829 acres, and thealtitude ranges from 11,152 ft to19,347 ft above sea level. TheCotopaxi Volcano is one of the mostimportant features of this park. It isthe highest active volcano in theworld. Adventurous professionalmountain climbers are attracted tothis site along with many touristswho take pride in attempting to reachthe top. The volcano offers climbingexperiences for all skill levels.The immense plain that surrounds thevolcano offers a wonderful landscapewith extraordinary geological condi-tions and numerous flora and fauna.This park is home to deer, pumas,condors, wild horses and llamas. TheLimpiopungo lagoon, located close tothe Rumiñahui volcano (15,492 ft), isa good place for camping. The Pucará Ruins are an Incaicfortress that should be visited too. Atthe foot of Cotopaxi you will also findan Incan Palace built by TupacCOTOPAXI
MACHALILLA
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Yupanqui in the XV century, turnedinto a monastery by the CatholicAugustinian Order in the XVII centu-ry. At this site you will enjoy an out-standing view of the volcanoes.Currently it houses a beautifulhacienda that offers excellent hotelfacilities. Hotel Cuello de Luna (seepage 98) offers exciting expeditionsand excellent lodging in the area.
5. LLANGANATES
This park is home to one of the mostexotic and inaccessible regions inEcuador. It includes rough moor-lands, deep valleys, rivers, lagoons,and abundant waterfalls. Most of thepark is covered by dense vegetation,and the weather is mostly cold andrainy. Cerro Hermoso (15,618 ft) isthe highest mountain in the area.
The most common animal speciesfound are moorland rabbits, sacha(jungle) rabbit, and weasels. Othercommon species that are very diffi-cult to spot are the spectacle bear,white-tailed deer, moorland deer,moorland fox, puma, deer, tapir,cock-of-the-rock, and the condor.Throughout history, explorers andadventurers have been attracted tothis area in search of the elusive goldof Atahualpa, which according tolegend is hidden in the Llanganates.Nobody has found the gold, how-ever all visitors bear witness to theregion’s mysteries, and keep thelegend alive…
6. SANGAY
Sangay is located between threeProvinces: Tungurahua, Chimborazoand Morona Santiago and has anextension of 671,654 acres. Take thePan-American Highway to Riobamba.When you reach Alao you may askfor tourist information at the park’sadministration center- correct pathsfor mountain climbing, horse rental,etc. There are three main mountainsin this park: Sangay (17,154 ft.),Altar (17,446 ft.), and Tungurahua(16,452 ft.). These mountains offerexcellent opportunities for hiking,
trekking, and climbing. The SangayVolcano is off limits because it is inpermanent eruption, but you can getclose enough to take spectacularphotographs. Native indigenouscommunities live in this park:Quichua- Canelos in the north andShuar in the south.
7. CAJAS
This National Park is only 21 milesaway from Cuenca. It ranges in alti-tude from 9,840 ft to 11,480 ft. Its71,186-acre area includes moun-tains and 232 glacial lagoons, con-nected to each other by small riversand streams. Two of the rivers sur-rounding Cuenca, the Tomebambaand the Yanuncay, begin in this area.
Cajas is home to mammals such asthe white-tailed deer, spectacle bear,puma, paramo deer, paramo rabbit,and the Andean tapir. Some of themost important bird species foundhere are the caracara, the condor, theAndean toucan and spectacle duck.The most common vegetationincludes: chuquiragua, paramograsses, yagual (Polylepis), romeril-
lo, chachacoma, genciana, romerilloand the sarar. The Park also hassome archeological Inca sites in thearea of Molleturo, which historiansbelieve to have been a ‘tambo’ (rest-ing areas for the Inca couriers fromCuzco to Quito).
8. PODOCARPUS
Podocarpus is located in both theProvinces of Loja and ZamoraChinchipe, with an extension of351.436 acres. This park has twoecological zones, jungle and high-land, both with great diversity of floraand fauna. Here you will find exoticorchids, bears, pumas, humming-birds, toucans, woodpeckers andreptiles. It is the ideal place forbotanical, ecological and zoologicalinvestigations. If you enjoy longwalks, listening to the sounds ofbirds, running rivers, waterfalls andcamping, then this is a place youshouldn’t miss.
Photos Courtesy ofMiguel Dávila, Marco Cruz &Ministry of Tourism
CAJAS
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NATIONAL PARKENTRANCE FEE:$100 for international visitors/Comunidad Andina or Mercosur $50
AIR TRAVEL:There are two airports served bylocal airlines: on Baltra Island and onSan Cristobal Island.
TRANSIT CONTROLCARD (TCT):In order to have a better control ofvisitors and migration to theislands, INGALA, the Ecuadorianinstitution that controls migrationto the islands, introduced a visitorcontrol card.
The control card has a cost of $10,which must be canceled at theINGALA counters located in theQuito and Guayaquil airports.
CRUISE SHIPS:A cruise is definitely the best way tovisit many of the islands in a shortperiod of time. Tours are a minimumof four days. There is a wide range ofcruise offers, from small sailboats forabout 18 passengers to big luxuriouscruise ships for more than 100 pas-sengers. Contact your travel agencyfor more information.
This archipelago is a living muse-um of evolutionary changes. Freeand fearless animals, different fromany others found elsewhere, makevisitors wonder about their veryexistence on our planet. In 1835,Charles Darwin sailed on theBritish ship H.M.S. Beagle and vis-ited the islands. The living proofthat he found in this unique vol-canic archipelago inspired his the-ory of the Origin of Species, whichshook the scientific world. Allthose who choose to make thisunforgettable trip can confirm hisobservations and studies. UNESCOdeclared Galapagos a WorldNatural Heritage Site in 1978 andsubsequently a World BiosphereReserve in 1985.
FLORA AND FAUNA: Galapagos is home to an incrediblyhigh rate of endemic species.Among the animals found are the dif-ferent species of giant ‘Galapagos’tortoises that gave the islands theirname due to the similarity of theircarapaces to a British riding saddlecalled ‘galapago’ in Spanish.
Galapagos is home to a variety ofbirds: blue footed, red footed andmasked boobies, flamingos, frigate
birds, albatrosses, unique smallpenguins and non-flying cor-morants, and 14 different varietiesof finches. These various finchesserved as proof for Darwin’s theoryof evolution from natural selection.
Marine mammals such as sea lions,dolphins and whales are also found;as well as multitudes of colorful fish.The most distinctive plants are man-groves and endemic cacti.
ORIGIN:The islands appeared from lavaeruptions that came from the bot-tom of the ocean and that rise asmuch as 2,600 ft. Lava from morethan 2,000 craters has continuous-ly altered the terrain of the region.Currently, the archipelago includes13 large islands, 6 minor ones andmore than 40 islets. Some of theyounger islands still have activevolcanoes.
WEATHER:December to May the weather issunny and warm. During themonths of June to November, it’scolder and drier.
LOCATION: 600 miles West off the coast.
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LAND OPTIONS:Another way to visit the Galapagos isto stay in a hotel at one of the inhab-ited islands. You can travel from oneisland to the other by light aircraft orboat. The following towns offer facil-ities for tourists:
Puerto AyoraSanta Cruz Island
HOW TO GET THERE:If you hire a cruise, or stay at themain hotels on the island, they willmake all your travel arrangements.If you are traveling on your own,book your flight from Quito orGuayaquil with Tame or Aerogal.The airlines provide a bus to theItabaca canal (10 minute ride).From there ferries take you acrossthe canal to Santa Cruz Island for 80cents. To continue to the town ofPuerto Ayora you either take a bus($1,80) or a taxi ($15) for a 45minute drive. Along the way you willtravel from the arid coastal areathrough different ecological zonesas you ascend to the highlands andthen come back to sea level.
The name Santa Cruz means HolyCross. The first Spanish visitors gavethis island a Christian name. This isthe main port of entrance to theArchipelago and home to the major-ity of human inhabitants (aprox.10,000). Puerto Ayora is the capitalof the island, with exciting places tovisit, travel agencies that provide vis-its to the other islands, visit to thehighlands and the beaches, otherspecial tours,etc.
At Puerto Ayora you will also findexcellent handicrafts, jewelry shops,art galleries, casual clothing, restau-rants, bike rentals, kayaking, divingand snorkeling services just by tak-ing a walk down Charles DarwinAvenue.
CHARLES DARWINFOUNDATIONHEADQUARTERS:A visit to the Charles DarwinFoundation Headquarters is a mustfor any visitor to Puerto Ayora. Hereyou will be able to discover theconservation efforts of the CharlesDarwin Foundation and theGalapagos National Park, and see
the giant tortoises (Elephantopusgeochelone) breeding center, as wellas a small land iguana breeding cen-ter. You will learn about the breedingprocess of these animals in captivity,as well as other conservation effortsfor these endangered species andvarieties. During the summer months(January to April) we recommendthat you take your visit early in themorning to avoid the heat and sun.Distances within the headquarters areshort, so you can walk.
On the route you will find OpuntiaCacti (Opuntia echios gigantean),endemic to the Galapagos. Be sureto look out for the tame finches andobserve the variety of beaks that ledCharles Darwin to his theory of evo-lution by natural selection. Theseheadquarters are open Monday thruSunday from 6h00 to 18h00.
During your visit, which will takeapproximately 2 hours, be sure tostop at the following pavilions:
1. Van Straelen Visitors Center: adidactic exhibition on origin,fragility, conservation, geology,
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climate, and other aspects relat-ed to the Galapagos.
2. Giant Tortoise Breeding Center:this center houses baby tortois-es from every island until theyare mature enough to survivewith hardened carapaces. Oncethey reach a certain maturity,they are re-introduced into theirisland of origin.
3. Tortoises’ corrals: at the corralsyou can observe and comparethe different shapes of the cara-paces according to the varieties.It is interesting to note that“Diego” (Geochelone elephan-topus hoodensis) from EspañolaIsland has a flat carapace thatbecomes long at the height ofthe neck. This tortoise was brought fromthe San Diego Zoo (thus thename) and was successfullyreunited with females from
Española Island. Thus, this vari-ety was saved from extinction.
Unfortunately, this was not thecase for “Lonesome George”,who was the last survivor of thePinta Island variety and was notable to reproduce, regardlessmany efforts with geneticallysimilar females.
Lonesome George died on thepast month of June 2012, makingits species extinct. The NationalPark announced that the cause ofdeath seems to have been a heartattack, as the body was found in awalking position and the tortoisedid not suffer of any sickness.The National Park has alsoannounced that they will embalmLonesome George so it can bekept for future generations.
4. Land Iguanas Corral: a few pro-tected land iguanas can be foundat these corrals. Introducedspecies such as dogs and catsendanger these iguanas.
Two land iguana species areendemic to the GalapagosIslands, the Conolophus sub-cristatus (that is found on six ofthe islands), and the Conolophuspellidus (found on Sante Fe Is.)
Charles Darwin Foundation has adedicated international staff thatworks together on research andlong-term conservation programs.Visit their website at:
www.darwinfoundation.org
TORTUGA BAYTortuga Bay is a beautiful beach offine white sand. From your hotel, for$1, take a taxi to where the path tothis unique beach begins. A 2.5 kmcobblestone path was built in orderto reach the paradisiacal beach ofTortuga Bay by foot. A mysteriousforest of the tall Opuntia Cactus andvolcanic rock surrounds the path,and the view is overwhelming.Throughout your walk you willobserve finches, yellow warblers,mockingbirds, and lava lizards. Feeltransported to the time when theadventurers and pirates of the XVIIIand XIX century visited theseenchanted islands.
Once your reach Tortuga Bay, youwalk into what seems an infiniteand desolate beach of white sand.Every now and then you encountermarine iguanas on their way in orout of the water.
There are other interesting sites tovisit such as the lava tunnels, thetwin craters, tortoises in their naturalenvironment (all in the highlands),the grottos (crevasses with refresh-ing swimming water), or theGarrapatero beach. Be sure to askyou hotel about facilities to visitthese sites.
NIGHT LIFE:Puerto Ayora is a quiet, safe,tourist friendly town. On CharlesDarwin Avenue one can find almosteverything; restaurants, bars,
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in the archipelago) and the LobosIsland. You will be surprised by thepresence of sea lions in town. Ahighlight when visiting this island isa tour to Kicker Rock, a stunning rockformation surrounded by abundantsea life (especially sharks). On thesame trip you can visit the beautifulCerro Brujo beach.
Puerto Velasco IbarraFloreana Island
This enigmatic island is the leastinhabited of the archipelago, in
spite of the fact that it was the firstone to be colonized, basically bynational and foreign settlers dur-ing the first decades of this centu-ry. Many legends have been writ-ten about its people. Floreana byMargarett Wittmer is a most inter-esting novel that describes the sit-uations of these settlers! The mainattractions are: the historical PostOffice Bay and Asilo de la Paz,Punta Cormoran, Corona delDiablo, Enderby and Gardner Bay.
THIS MONTH IN GALAPAGOS
Max temperature 27°C / 80°FMin temperature 21°C / 70°FHours of clear skies 4Sea temperature 23°C / 74°F
DECEMBER
• Hatching of the giant tortoise’s eggs begins andlasts until April.
• Green sea turtles display their mating behavior.• The warm season begins and all of the plants of the
dry zone produce leaves.• Galapagos “turns green”. The first young albatross fled.
Note: The changes of strength and the limits of the ocean cur-rents can affect the climate in the Galapagos; some of thedescribed events above may differ.
Source: www.galapagosexplorer.com
ceviches (traditional food), freshfish, drinks, etc.
Night life offers much to enjoy, andsafely. You will find a wholesomeand fun ambience shared by peoplefrom all around the world who eitherlive in or are visiting Puerto Ayora.
Puerto Baquerizo MorenoSan Cristobal Island
This is the capital of the province,and has the second largest numberof inhabitants in the archipelago.From 1836 to 1904, a large portionof the highlands of the islandbelonged to Hacienda El Progreso,with extensive sugar and coffee plan-tations owned by M.J. Cobos. Cobosmade an empire of his hacienda (iteven had its own currency). You canvisit vestiges of this hacienda, andalso coffee plantations that remainopen to this day.
The main attractions in the islandare: the Interpretation Center; OchoaBeach, Playa Man, Pitt Pint, El Juncolagoon (the only fresh water lagoon
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Puerto VillamilIsabela Island
This enchanted town has a populationof about 2,500, mostly fishermen.Close to town are several impressivesites: a path alongside a reef that ishome to several white tip sharks- youcan easily observe them from land;“Concha y Perla” Bay; a giant tortoisebreeding center; and the amazing vol-canoes Sierra Negra and VolcánChico. Sierra Negra has the secondlargest crater in the world, with a diam-eter of 7.46 miles. Volcán Chico hasan overwhelming “lunatic” landscapewith fascinating lava formations. It’spossible to horseback ride or trekaround Sierra Negra’s crater to VolcánChico. Isabela also has a flamingo lakeand several beautiful trails along theway to the “Wall of Tears”. This wall isproof of the genuine human history ofthe islands. Around 1946, this islandwas a penal colony. Prisoners werekept busy carrying sharp lava rocks toform this wall.
GALAPAGOS MARINE RESERVE:
The interior waters of the islands,plus those within 40 nautical milesmeasured from the baseline of theArchipelago, were declared theGalapagos Marine Reserve in 1994.This is the only protected coastalmarine area in the East Pacific, andthe second largest Marine Reserve inthe World.
There are many areas with small sub-marine volcanoes, which are impor-tant feeding zones for marine birdsand mammals. Don’t miss the oppor-tunity to snorkel with sea lions, pen-guins, a variety of colorful fish andeven inoffensive sharks! Diving cours-es and tours are also offered for thosewho are willing to be adventurous!
DIVING IN GALAPAGOS
For many a Galapagos diving trip isthe experience of a lifetime as it isone of the last places in the worldwhere you can go diving with largeschools of sharks. Although sharksmay be the star of the show, thesewaters are home to much more:manta and leopard rays, dolphins,sea lions, penguins, sea turtles, yel-low fin tuna, almaco jacks, codfish,leather bass and blue striped chub…just to name a few. An impressivenumber of large animals such as sea
lions, rays, eels and sea turtles areseen on almost every dive.
Found at the confluence of warm andcold surface currents and deep coldupwelling waters, the GalapagosMarine Reserve is home to fascinat-ing marine life. Its waters are richwith nutrients and the porous lavarocks provide small fish with theprotection they would otherwisereceive from a coral reef, which arefew and far between in these waters.More than 2.900 marine specieshave been reported in theGalapagos, ¼ of which are exclusiveto this reserve (endemic).
Home to over 500 species of fish,24 species of marine mammals, and 27 shark species includingHammerheads and the enormousWhale Shark, the Galapagos MarineReserve is a World Natural HeritageSite. Besides all this diversity, several land animals and marinebirds depend exclusively on theGalapagos waters for their survival;thus, the conservation of the MarineReserve is a priority.
Galapagos isn’t just for advanceddivers; these waters offer somethingfor divers of all skill levels.Intermediate divers will be delightedby daily dive trips to sites likeGordon Rocks, Cousins Rocks, NorthSeymour and Floreana where ham-merheads, Galapagos sharks, giantmanta rays, golden rays, morays, furseal and sea lions are all commonlyseen. Contact our sponsors for moreinformation.
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PREMIUM SERVICES - GALAPAGOS
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try. The other route from Quito isthrough Santo Domingo de losColorados, set amid a broad sea ofbanana and oil-palm plantations,skirting a few tropical wet forestssuch as the little-explored ReservaEcológica Mache-Chindul. It ishome to the “Tsachilas”, an indige-nous culture also called “Colorados”because the men of this culture havepainted their hair red for centurieswith a vegetable dye taken from theseed of the “achiote”. From SantoDomingo a network of paved roadsconnects to the major coastal cen-ters of the country.
From Guayaquil, you can begin aroute through the coastline. The fol-lowing pages will guide you throughthis route of beautiful beaches, cul-ture and adventure.
The Ecuadorian Coast extends fromthe western slopes of the Andes to thePacific Ocean. A lower mountainrange crosses this region from Northto South and it is full of alluvial plains.The Ecuadorian Coast was populatedby the oldest known cultures of thecountry, such as Valdivia (3.500-1.800 BC). Ever since then, theregion has had the largest agriculturaldevelopment in the country, thanks tothe variety of natural resources suchas water, wide plains and fertile soils.
The Ecuadorian Coast holds threemain ecosystems: the tropical wetforests of the north, the tropical savan-nas of the center and south east, andthe dry forest of the west and southernpeninsula. Throughout the coastlinethere are three additional importantecosystems: the mangroves, thebeaches and the rock cliffs.
Two oceanographic phenomenainfluence the diversity that is foundin the country and especially on thecoast. The “El Niño” current comesfrom the North and is warm andhumid. The “Humboldt” currentcomes from the south and is coldand dry. The weather in the Coast ismostly warm; however, there aretwo seasons, wet and dry. The firstis warm and humid, and goes fromDecember to May. The rest of theyear is dry and cooler. The two sea-sons are clearly distinct from the
province of Manabi to the rest of theSouth. The northern province ofEsmeraldas has warm weather allyear long, and high levels of rain-fall; thus its lush vegetation.
During the months of the australwinter (June to October), theEcuadorian coast has an addition-al attraction: the presence ofHumpback whales (Megapternovoaengliae) that migrate fromthe Antarctic to tropical waters tomate and give birth to their calves.A favorite spot for whale-watchingis the Machalilla National Park inthe Manabi Province.
The old road from Quito to the coast,the Calacali -La Independencia road,passes through some of the bestbird-watching territory in the coun-
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ECUADORIANCOASTLINE
2. MUSEUM OF THE “LOVERSOF SUMPA”: Definitely worth visit-ing is this small but outstanding in-situ museum, which is located at theantique settlement village of the “LasVegas” culture (approx. 8.800 to4.600 BC). The museum got itsname because the burial groundsthat were uncovered disclosed theskeletons of a man and a woman thatwere carefully buried together about5-6.000 years ago. This museum isthe largest cemetery of that time thathas been excavated in the new world.Open Thursday thru Saturday, 10h00to 17h00. Sundays and holidays10h00 to 15h00. Phone: 294-1020Admission fee is $ 0.50, includesguide service.
3. SALINAS: Excellent accommo-dations are found in Salinas, namedfor the salt that extracted from theregion. This site is a corridor for
These pages guide us through theunique nature and history of theEcuadorian Coast. You can fly eitherto Guayaquil, Manta or Esmeraldasand drive through the coastline. Thefollowing pages will guide you fromGuayaquil, traveling Northward.
Following this route, nature lovershave the opportunity to explore uniquedry forests with their two contrastingseasons, cloud forests and their rarefauna and flora, dive within coral reefssurrounded by exotic sea life, admirethe numerous bird species of theregion, and submerge themselves inisolated and exotic beaches. The“Chongón-Colonche” Mountain Rangeat the north of the Guayas province hasunique ecosystems with an amazingdiversity of endemic plants and birds:one can climb from very dry forests atthe coast to lush cloud forests at thetop of the hills, only a few kilometersaway. For those who are sports
inclined, there are opportunities tofish, sail, surf, ski and dive.
In addition, Ecuador’s coastalprovinces hold vestiges of an amaz-ingly rich history. The most antiquecultures of America settled here onthe Coasts of South America. Finally,if you only wish to rest, suntan, andwatch the sunset, along this routeyou will find suitable accommoda-tions and services.
1. “REAL ALTO” IN-SITU MUSEUM: On the wayfrom Guayaquil to Salinas, one canfind this museum managed by thecommunity descending from the“Valdivia” culture. The place resem-bles a ceremonial center of thehuman groups that inhabited thisarea from 4.200 -1.500 B.C. OpenTues- Sunday, 9h00-17h00.Admission fee: $2.00.
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migratory bird and marine species. Itis a favorite vacation spot for peoplefrom Guayaquil. The boardwalk ofSalinas is a safe place that offersentertainment day and night.
On the Malecon, you can visit theNaval Archeological Museum (openWednesday-Sunday). This smallmuseum displays the vast archeo-logical richness of the pre-Hispaniccultures that inhabited this region.The museum also displays a repre-sentation of the antique “balsas”made from the wood of the samename, with great cotton sails thatimpressed the Spaniards becauseof their ability to travel long dis-tances (Mexico-Peru). The museumalso displays coins from theSpanish conquest, and some piecesfrom the “Lady Captain” galleonthat sank in 1664.
4. BALLENITA: The “FarallonDillon” Restaurant- Museum is foundat the site. It has a wonderful view-point that is the perfect setting for birdand whale watching. The museumdisplays modern practical artifactsmade out of antique marine pieces;most of the artifacts are for sale.
5. VALDIVIA: Close to the townare a museum and an aquarium.
The museum displays archeologi-cal pieces of the Valdivia culture.The aquarium is most interestingnot only because of the display ofexotic sea life, but also becausethe guides are homeless children;this job enables them to obtain aneducation.
6. MONTAÑITA: It is a favorite spotfor national and international sur fersand young adventurous tourists. Thischarming town offers a variety ofinexpensive hostels, national andinternational food, and an exhilarat-ing nightlife.
7. OLON: The wide beach of Olon iscrowned with an outstandingSanctuary, with open walls and abreathtaking view of the beach.
8. MACHALILLA NATIONAL PARK: This park hasvarious attractions: Isla de la Plataoff the coast of Puerto Lopez, LosFrailes Beach, the ArcheologicalSite of Agua Blanca, Salango, andthe Beaches of Puerto Rico andPuerto Cayo.
9. MANTA: Until recently, Mantawas only known for its importanttuna fishing fleet, the production of
vegetable oil, and the famous“Panama hats”. Today, the visits ofcruise ships and the construction ofmodern hotels have transformed thecity into an important tourist destina-tion. Many foreigners have chosenManta and the nearby Crucita townas their retirement residence.
Manta is a modern city, howeversome antique bamboo and woodenhouses still remain as a reminder ofthe old village. With an average tem-perature of 77ºF all year long, dryweather and dry tropical forest in itssurroundings, Manta is an attractivecity to visit. Additionally, Mantaoffers first class hotel facilities anddaily flights are available on Aerogalfrom the main cities.
The warmth and hospitality of theManteños contributed to the rapidtourism development of the entireprovince. Delicious gastronomy is alsoone of the main attractions of Manta.Don’t miss the seafood “ceviches” orthe exquisite “viche de pescado”.
Manta is decorated with a wide vari-ety of tree species: ceibos, jasmines,almonds, rubber plants, acacias, andbeautiful palm trees. The balsa tree(Ochroma logopus) is native to this
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DosMangas
LEGEND
Typical foodNational Protected AreaBeachesAirportSurfing FishingWater SportsAccommodationScuba diving
Capital of ProvinceCities / TownsSmall TownsMain RoadSecondary RoadLa Ruta del Sol
10
11
9
8
Colonche
Valdivia
Playa Rosada
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5
4
2
3
1
Barcelona
La Unión
El Salto
Muisne
San Gregorio
Punta Farallón
Punta Pedernales
Punta Ballena
Punta Charapotó
San Mateo
Bahía de Caráquez
Punta TortugaSan Francisco
El Carmen
SúaAtacames Tonsupa
SameTonchigüe
GaleraPunta Galera
SANTA ELENA
GUAYAS
MANABÍ
LOS RÍOS
ESMERALDAS
Narcisa de Jesús
Daule
L. de
Sargentillo
Palestina
SANTA ELENA
Durán
Pichincha El EmpalmeQuevedo
Flavio Alfaro
province. Its light wood allowed theearly inhabitants of the region to nav-igate large distances easily and rap-idly. From history books we havelearned that the golden jewels anddecorations worn by the navigatorscaught the attention of the firstSpanish visitors, who believed thatthe gold they couldn’t find in theCaribbean was in the South Pacific.
10. BAHIA DE CARAQUEZ: Thecity of Bahía de Caráquez is namedafter the bay and the pre-Columbianresidents who came from the sea andsettled here. Because of the estuaryand the Pacific Ocean around the city,the local nature offers fresh and saltwater that allows diverse vegetation. Inthe area you can find mangrove trees,ceibos forests, and fresh water humid-ity such as that in La Segua Marsh.
A few years ago Bahía became an eco-city as a result of its big GreenMovement and because of the commu-nity effort to rebuild the city after suffer-ing the earthquakes of 1997. Bahía deCaráquez is one of the few cities inEcuador that recycles waste, serving asan example for other regions.
Traffic is not a problem. Many resi-dents and tourists prefer to use“ecological taxis” which are bikesadapted to transport two passengers.
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This province is called "La ProvinciaVerde" (The Green Province) due to itsexuberant vegetation, which also gaveit the name of Esmeraldas (Emerald),the precious dark green stone. TheEsmeraldas River runs through theprovince contributing to its paradisiacaltropical beauty, vegetation and fauna.
Esmeraldas is a great tourist attractiondue to its vast beaches, delicious localgastronomy based on seafood andgreen plantains, and the hospitality ofits people, amongst them being thejovial Afro-Ecuadorian community. Atale of the province tells of the adven-ture of a ship full of slaves that washeading toward Cartagena, Colombiaand was shipwrecked at the coasts ofEsmeraldas. These African peoplefound freedom and attractive livingconditions in Esmeraldas and settledthere. This is a lively community withextraordinary musical manifestations.
Tourist facilities are improving andinexpensive hostels, comfortablebeach resorts, as well as cabins frombudget to high end can now be foundin Atacames, Same, Punta Galeras,Muisne and Mompiche, just to men-tion some of the favorite beaches inthis province. Esmeraldas is a favoritevacation spot for people from Quito,as it is one of the closest beaches andthe weather and water temperature iswarm throughout the year.
This keeps the city free from pollu-tion and offers a peaceful place idealfor vacationing.
MAIN ATTRACTIONS
Isla Corazón is a mangrove forestrefuge comprised of 130 acres, hometo one of the largest colonies ofMagnificent Frigate birds in all of theSouth Pacific. Since 1998 the protec-tion of the sanctuary is the responsibil-ity of an adjacent community calledPortovelo, that has a mangrove refor-estation project. The residents are gladto show you around the island onwooden trails that have been builtwithin the mangroves, as well as onboat tours around the island.
La Segua Marsh is a fresh waterhumidity area of about 172 hectares.In La Segua there are approximately164 bird species.
Cerro Seco is one of the last tropi-cal dry forests in the world.
The Cabo Pasado: Is a remnantof pre-mountain forest which is ageographical transition betweenthe Tumbesian region of dry tropi-cal forest and the tropical rainfor-est of the Chocó Region. It is theonly area in South America whereyou can observe the flora andfauna of both tropical and dryforests coexisting together. It canbe toured by horseback or hiking.You will likely see and hear howlermonkeys.
11. ESMERALDAS:
The Esmeraldas province in thenorthwest of the country is a tropicaland warm region thanks to theHumboldt cold current, whichcomes from the south and drifts offbefore reaching Esmeraldas.
BAHIA DE CARAQUEZ - MANABI.
PHOTO COURTESY OF PATRICIO TAMARIZ
Km. 51/2 vía Bahía - Tosagua Phone: (593 5) 2399 399 Email: [email protected] www.casaceibo.com
Bahía de Caráquez - Manabí - Ecuador
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Tel.: 5935 - 2629999 • Fax: 5935 - [email protected] • www.ghl.com.co
Kilometro 1.5 Via Barbasquillo • Manta - Ecuador
MANTA ECUADOR
PREMIUM HOTELS - ECUADORIAN COASTLINE
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Gaspar de Villarroel 1100 & 6 de DiciembreEdificio Ritz Plaza Esquina
Phone: (593-2) 336-0887 / 336-0888 / 336-0889Fax: (593) 2-336-0774
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THIS MONTH’SRECOMMENDED
Las Tanusas:A LuxuriousHaven in theEcuadorian Coast
By: José Luis GarcésTranslation by Cristina Vallejo
To journey the Ecuadorian Coast is amost gratifying experience: beautifulsolitaire beaches such as “LosFrailes” in the Machalilla NationalPark contrast with the exhilaratingsurf town of “Montañita” or thebeachfront city of “Salinas”.Moreover, the green and lushness ofthe Esmeraldas province in the Northcontrasts with the dry forest of thesouthern provinces.
Along this route, we visited a won-derful and hidden spot of uniquebeauty, luxury and comfort. One hourfrom the city of Manta by land andjust before arriving to Puerto Cayo is“Las Tanusas”, a new concept ofhostelry that combines luxury andminimalism and offers a differentexperience, set right in front of thesea of one of the most beautifulbeaches of continental Ecuador.
Las Tanusas Boutique Resort &Villas is the initiative of a group ofChilean- Ecuadorian investors who,marveled by the beauty of thePuerto Cayo area and the diversityof experiences that Ecuador offersto visitors, decided to create aunique luxurious hotel at this privi-leged site. Las Tanusas is con-ceived to look into the future,through its building expansion in areal estate project which integrates
the hotel, and in which both theadministration of future housing andthe provision of services is devel-oped through the hotel itself. Thepresent layout has been designedby four architects, whose teamshave generated proposals in keep-ing with the distinctive features ofthe land.
On the drive from Manta to LasTanusas, you pass through severalsmall towns, inhabited mostly byfishermen, whom in the afternoonyou often find preparing for the nextday’s early fishing. Frigate birds,pelicans and other seabirds fly overthe boats waiting for the rightmoment to “steal” some fish. Aspectacular sight!
After crossing the cane doors ofentrance to the hotel, you go througha secondary road for approximately
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100 meters (328 feet), and a beauti-ful sight of huge palm trees that har-moniously blend with the hotel’sarchitecture and surrounding bunga-lows meets your eye. All rooms andbungalows face the ocean and aresurrounded by graceful gardens.
Once inside, the hotel’s large win-dows and spacious rooms allowenjoying the main dock, theturquoise pool, and the beautifulpalm tree beach. The tame oceanseems like a postcard in the back-ground. The rooms have a soberdecoration with local materials, andthe spectacular view is definitelythe main attribute of the hotel’sdesign.
The dishes served in the mainrestaurant are a fusion of the local“comida Manabita” with a gourmettouch of French influence. Forexample, the traditional shrimp“ceviche” is served in a totallynovel presentation and is a truedelight to the senses.
The activities to be enjoyed in andaround the hotel are diverse and canbe chosen according to your prefer-ences. One of the main activitiesoffered is a visit to “Isla de la Plata”,
an island belonging to the MachalillaNational Park that is a one hour nav-igation from the nearby town ofPuerto López. Surrounded by coralsand with a large marine diversity, thisisland is an ideal spot for snorkelingor diving. Moreover, it holds a varietyof seabird species, many of whichare also found in the Galapagos;such is the case of the blue footedboobies and frigate birds. The excur-sion to “Isla de la Plata” is a one dayactivity that allows for a nature hike,snorkeling or diving and relaxing onthe beach. If your visit is in themonths of June through October, youwill also be able to enjoy the impres-sive spectacle of humpback whalesjumping and playing around duringtheir reproduction period.
Surf, body board, kite surf, fishing athigh seas (swordfish, goldfish andwaju) as well as horseback ridingon the beach, amongst other activi-ties, present ideal outdoor delightand enjoyment. For those keen ofhistory, a visit to the SalangoArcheological Museum can bearranged, where you will find ves-tiges of the local pre-Incan culturesof Valdivia, Machalilla, Chorrera,Bahía, Guangala y Manteno. Anotherinteresting visit is that to the town of
Montecristi, where the famousPanama hats are manufactured.These among a wide variety of activ-ities to choose from: for all tastesand moods!
Finally, a delicious relaxation mas-sage with the lull of the ocean at thehotel’s spa is definitely a great wayto end a vacation at Las Tanusas!
The hotel offers sixteen rooms, fiveof which are found in the main build-ing and eleven, in bungalows. Sevenof these hold a private pool. There isa semi- Olympic pool, a sauna bath,a steam bath, massage rooms,Pilates’ training- rooms, two snack-bars and a restaurant.
Las Tanusas is a “Hippie Chic” des-tination surrounded by wide quietbeaches and traditional towns of anEcuadorian coast of sun, mountainsand impressive nature.
Practical information:Location: Puerto Cayo,Manabí ProvinceE-mail: [email protected]: +593998199428www.lastanusas.com
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GUAYAQUIL
to the north. Your walk up theMalecón Simón Bolívar will take youthrough three sections:
NorthernThis section has space for sports,entertainment, science, history andart. Children’s games, space for aer-obics and skating, are all surroundedby the historical Plaza de Orellana,Plaza de la Pileta (water fountain)and Plaza del Vagón, with a wagon ofan antique Ecuadorian train. In thissection you will also find gardensthat showcase diverse plant speciesof the Ecuadorian coast, and theCentro Cultural Simón Bolívar.
CentralWith the Civic Plaza (10 de Agostoand Pichincha) containing a gallerydedicated to the most outstandingpersonalities in Guayaquil’s history,this section is mostly historic. Youcan also admire other monuments:
Guayaquil, the capital of the Guayasprovince, is the largest and mostpopulated city in Ecuador. Locatedon the Pacific coast, it has a tropicalclimate, and is known as the “PacificPearl”. It is the main port of Ecuador,thus, it is of great economic impor-tance to the country. The city wasnamed after an indigenous chief,“Guayas”, and his wife, “Quil”. Bothof them chose to die before surren-dering themselves to the Spaniards.
Francisco de Orellana foundedGuayaquil on the skirts of the SantaAna Hill on July 25th, 1534. On thetop of this hill you can observe can-nons that were used to defend thecity from pirate attacks. A few hous-es preserve their original architec-ture, with defense walls facing theriver. Many of these houses werebuilt at different levels on the hill,very common for the Spaniards andPortuguese. The surroundings of the
city offer archeological sites of thepre-Hispanic cultures of Valdivia,Machalilla, Chorrera, Guangala andManteña. The Gulf of Guayaquil, theriver, the monuments, museums,parks, and its exhilarating nightlifeare part of the attractions of this city.
MAIN ATTRACTIONSMALECÓN SIMÓN BOLÍVAROn this 1 1/2 mile waterfront walkyou’ll find entertainment, culture andnature! Malecón Simón Bolívarincludes monuments, museums,gardens, fountains, shopping malls,restaurants, bars, an IMAX theater, aswell as docks and viewpoints.
Malecón Simón Bolívar is the largestarchitectural development in the lastcentury of Guayaquil’s history (totalsurface is 4,942 acres). It runs fromCuenca Street to the south of thecity, all the way to “Barrio Las Peñas”
MALECÓN SIMÓN BOLÍVAR
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during the XIX century, is found. Toconclude your visit through this sec-tion, visit the modern architecture ofthe new Bahía Malecon Mall, with itsterrace of restaurants that offers aspectacular view of the Guayas River.
SANTA ANA HILLThis unique hill with its charming andcolorful houses is located in thenorthern part of the city. After climb-ing 444 stairs you will have the oppor-tunity to visit many restaurants, shopsand art galleries. There is also a smallchurch to visit as well as a lighthousethat overlooks the entire city.
“LAS PEÑAS” NEIGHBORHOODAdjacent to the stairway is “LasPeñas”, the first residential neigh-borhood of Guayaquil. Its woodenhouses hold treasured memoriesfrom writers and poets that inhabitedthis area. Although it existed sincecolonial times, “Las Peñas” wascompletely destroyed due to a fire in1896 (“El Incendio Grande”). It wasrebuilt in a neoclassic style. Enjoy astroll along the charming cobblestoned street “Numa PompilloLlona”, full of small art galleries.Here you can also witness the influ-ence of the Pacific Naval Yards fromthe Spanish colonial times.
Hemiciclo de la RotondaThis historical monument is a spectac-ular semicircle commemorating themeeting of two Latin American libera-tors, Simón Bolívar and San Martin,when it was decided that Guayaquil beannexed to the Gran Colombia. Themonument was designed and con-structed by the Spanish sculptor JoseAntonio Holms and placed in 1937.From this historical site you can seethe Rafael Mendoza Avilés bridge (thelargest in Ecuador).
Moorish Clock TowerThe clock was bought in Englandthanks to a loan given by Don ManuelAntonio Lizárraga, a rich Spanishmerchant, one of the illustrious fig-ures of the Independence. The clockwas inaugurated in October of 1842just after the terrible yellow fever epi-demic in Guayaquil, the worst in itshistory. In 1903, the clock wasmoved, tower and all, from City Hallthat was demolished to the TownHall. However, from this location, thetolls that announced the hour couldnot be heard throughout the city, sotwo stories were built on to the tower.
In 1920, an Italian engineer built atower of three prismatic parts entirelymade of carved wood. Finally, due tostructural flaws, this tower had to bedemolished. At this time, the foreigncolony residing in Guayaquil togeth-er with the City Council constructed anew tower in a pure Mozarabic Style.
Also in this section you can visit thefour sculptures that represent theelements of nature, as well as theGuayaquil Yacht Club and the NavalYacht Club. From the pier, the PirateMorgan Tavern Ship has dailydepartures for a cruise around theGuayas River.
Services include a covered parkinglot, security area, rest rooms and afirst aid center.
SouthernThe old market is found in this sec-tion. It was inaugurated in 1907, andits authorship is attributed to thefamous French engineer Eiffel. In thissection you will find the “Club de laUnión”, the most traditional socialcenter in Guayaquil. As you continueyou will come to the Olmedo Plaza,where a monument of José Joaquínde Olmedo, a famous poet fromGuayaquil and President of Ecuador
HEMICICLO DE LA ROTONDA
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MALECÓN “EL SALADO”Smaller than Malecon 2000, thiswaterfront walk also offers entertain-ment, culture and nature. At El Saladoyou will find a variety of restaurantsand bars to chose from; handcraftshops and entertainment for children.Fridays, Weekends and holidays at19h30 and 20h30 there is a “Lightand Sounds Show” at the Fountain. It is located at 9 de Octubre & La Ria.
OTHER ATTRACTIONS IN GUAYAQUIL
CENTENARIO PARKThe park is located at the heart of thecity and is also one of the largest inGuayaquil. There are bronze monu-ments, which represent heroism,justice, patriotism, and freedom.One monument representing theman who fought for independencewas designed by a Spanish Sculptor,Agustin Querol, and built by JoséMonserrat in 1818.
SEMINARIO PARKAlso known as the Bolívar Park orIguanas Park, it is located on ChileStreet between 10 de Agosto and
Clemente Ballén Avenues. The parkwas inaugurated on July 24, 1880.You can admire the statue of the liber-ator Simon Bolívar. This park isexceptional for its wildlife. You willsee fish, a variety of birds, andnumerous iguanas. The iguanas of thepark have always been one of its mainattractions. These animals chose thisplace to feed on its vegetation, as thetown of Guayaquil used to end at thispark, the rest being savannah.
CENTRO CIVICOThis modern center has an informa-tion office for tourists, expositionhalls, convention halls, and otherlarge areas for musical events, con-certs, theaters, and other culturalevents. On the upper floor of thecivic center one can admire out-standing sculptures of OswaldoGuayasamin. This center has an arti-ficial lake surrounded by exuberantvegetation. Address: Quito St,between El Oro y Venezuela.
GENERAL CEMETERY Although few cemeteries can beconsidered a tourist attraction, thisone is worth admiring. It has out-standing sculptures made of white
marble. The style has a strong Italianinfluence. Beautiful stretches ofpalm trees lead to the grave of thepast president, Vicente Rocafuerte.
SPORT CENTERS Guayaquil is famous for its greatsport facilities, including one of the20 largest soccer stadiums in theworld, “Isidro Romero” (seats85,000 people). This stadium islocated at Del Bombero Av. The cityalso hosts a modern horse track withraces every weekend- theHipódromo Buijo (Samborondón).There are also tracks for go-kart,bicycle, motorcycle and car races; aswell as basketball, golf and polocourts and great water sport facilities.
WE ALSO RECOMMEND THAT YOU VISIT The “Guayas and Quil” Monument(Las Americas Ave.), theMunicipality Palace (Pichincha 605and 10 de Agosto), the Governor’sPalace (Malecón and Aguirre), SucreSquare (Pichincha and ClementeBallén), Rocafuerte Square(Rocafuerte and Junin), and thePlanetarium (via Puerto Marítimo).
MUNICIPALITY PALACE
CATHEDRAL
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children, senior citizens and stu-dents. Phone: 2300500 / 2304998.
GUAYAQUIL IN HISTORYLocated at Malecon 2000 under theIMAX Theater, this didactic museumholds a miniature exhibit of the mostremarkable scenes of Guayaquil’shistory. It is an auto-guided museum(in Spanish) with entertaining expla-nations and lively music.
Open Mondays thru Sundays from9h00 - 13h30 and 16h00 -20h00.Admission fee: $1,50 adults, $1children. Phone: 2563078.
THE MUNICIPAL MUSEUMThis museum has four divisions:Archeology, History, Colonial Art andModern Art.
You will have the chance to see orig-inal “tzanzas” (shrunken heads.)
The Shuar culture of the southeastused to shrink their enemy’s head tokeep the bad spirits away from them.These miniature heads would notlose their original features whenreduced. The mystery of this processhas not yet been discovered. Eventhough the Shuar culture is still alive,the shrunken head tradition is not.
Located at the corner of SucreStreet and Pedro Carbo. Visiting
CHURCHES
THE CATHEDRALThis Neo-Gothic Cathedral was builtin 1948. The main altar is made ofmarble from Cuenca and its stainedglass windows are beautiful works ofart. It is located on the corner ofChimborazo and Clemente BallénAvenues. Visiting hours: 9h00-12h00, and14h00-17h00 everyday.
SANTO DOMINGOThis church is the oldest inGuayaquil, built in the 16 Century. Itwas later restored in 1938. It is dec-orated with the famous paintings ofSalas. It is located on Rocafuerteand Coronel Ave. Visiting hours:8h00 to 18h00.
LA MERCEDIt has a gothic style and a gold cov-ered altar. It is located on Rendónand Pedro Carbo Ave. Open Mondaythru Friday 7h-12h00 and 18h-19h30. Saturdays 7h-10h00 and18h-20h00. Free admission.
MUSEUMSCENTRO CULTURAL SIMÓN BOLÍVARThe Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar ofthe Ecuadorian Central Bank guards acollection of 50.000 archeologicalpieces and a modern art collection of3.000 works. It also houses a library of20.000 publications specializing inart, archeology and anthropology.
Additionally, the museum has sixexhibit halls, a multipurpose roomfor conferences and workshops, adocument center, a bookstore and ahandcraft shop, as well as a cinemawith a capacity for 380 people. Freeoutdoor movie projections are pre-sented periodically.
Open Tuesday thru Saturday from10h00 to 17h00, Sundays and holi-days from 11h00 to 15h00. Address: Malecon Simon Bolivarand Loja (at the Northern part of the
Malecon 2000, next to the Imax the-ater). Admission fee: Wednesday-Saturday $1.50, Sundays free
CASA DE LA CULTURAThis museum holds the most valu-able pre-historic gold work collec-tion in Ecuador. Most pieces weremade by the indigenous inhabitantsof our coast. You will see ceremoni-al pots, snake-shaped bracelets,nose rings, gold pieces that wereused on the lips and cheeks, elabo-rate pins used to fasten clothing,chest shields, ceremonial masks andearrings. The abundance of gold pro-voked the greed of the Spanish con-querors, who hoarded and sent vastquantities of this precious metalback to Spain. Thus, gold workman-ship disappeared due to theIndigenous belief that gold was evil,being the main cause of havingSpaniards come to their lands.Archeological objects such as the“Ocarinas” (clay whistles), stoneheadrests, molds for gold masks andclay seals, apparently have Egyptianinfluence. There are many colonialpaintings from anonymous authorsand from well-known artists of thisperiod (such as Goribar andRodriguez). Address: 9 de Octubre1200 & Pedro Moncayo.
Open Tuesday thru Friday from10h-18h00, Saturdays 9h-15h00.Admission fee: $1 adults, $0.50
SANTA ANA HILL
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hours: Tuesday thru Saturday 9h00to 17h00.
Free admission. Identification docu-ment is required. Phone: 2599100.
NAHIM ISAIAS MUSEUM Located at the Plaza de laAdministracion and part of theprocess of urban regeneration, theNahim Isaias Museum’s vision is topromote colonial art through its cul-tural funds. The complete collectionof the Museum includes 2.179works of art.
The second floor holds a permanentexhibition of colonial art. The exhibitis called “Cosmognias”, and is adidactical sample that integrates themost representative works of colonialculture. This exhibit consists of 100pieces: sculptures, paintings, clothesand accessories of the colonial peri-od. The exhibit is divided into fourcategories: Fire, Earth, Water and Air.
Open Tuesday thru Saturday from 9h00 to 16h30.Sundays and holidays from 10h00 to 15h00.Free admission.Address: Pichincha y Clemente BallenPhone: 2324182, 2324283www.museonahimisaias.com
PRESLEY NORTON MUSEUM“Villa Herlinda”, a two floor manordating back to 1942, houses thedelightful exhibition of “Life andCustoms of the Settlers of AncientEcuador”. The charming setting andapproachably small size of theexhibit, combined with the friendlydidactic resources of touch screensand a video, make a visit to thisunique museum a most pleasantexperience. The museum holds asample of 129 selected archeologi-cal pieces from a collection of over8,000 artifacts that belonged toPresley Norton, a passionate afi-
cionado of Ecuador’s archeology.The pieces belong to three historicalperiods: Formative (4,200 B.C. –500 B.C), Regional Development(500 B.C. – 500 A.D.) andIntegration (500 A.D.- 1530 A.D.).
Open Tuesday thru Saturday from9h00 to 17h00. Holidays from 10h00to 15h00. Free admission. Guideservice both in English and Spanish.Address: corner of 9 de Octubre andCarchi. Phone: (04) 229 3423.
NAVAL MUSEUM “ALMIRANTE ILLINGWORTH”Malecon & Clemente Ballen (Buildingof the Provincial Government ofGuayas). Open Monday thru Fridayfrom 8h00 to 12h30 and 14h00 to16h00. Free admission. Phone:2324274.
THE FIREFIGHTERS MUSEUM“FELIX LUQUE PLATA” Located at the old water distributorin Plaza Colon, close to “Las Peñas”neighborhood.
Open Tuesday thru Saturday from10h00 to 17h00. Admission fee:$0.75 adults, $0.25 children.Phone: 230 8565.
SURROUNDINGS
BOTANICAL GARDENThis garden holds approximately 700plant species that have been cultivat-ed to resemble their natural habitat.Among these are trees used forwood, fruit trees, ornamental andexotic plants. More than 80 speciesof orchids, both native and intro-duced from other tropical countries,can be observed. An exhibit of nativemedicinal plants of the Coast is alsofound. Approximately 75 bird speciesof the dry tropical forest fly freely inthe garden. Jardin Botanico alsohouses a butterfly-breeding center,with approximately 27 species.
Representations of the Valdivia,Manteña and Jama-Coaque culturesare exhibited along the internal roads.
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Located at “Cerro Colorado” in north-ern Guayaquil, Ciudadela LasOrquideas, Av. Francisco de Orellana.Open every day from 8h00 to 16h00.Entrance fee: $3.00 adults, $1.50 stu-dents, children and senior citizens.Guide service is $5.00 for groups upto 20 people. Phone: 2899 689.Workshops and conferences on plantcultivation are offered.
CERRO BLANCO PROTECTED FORESTProtected by governmental decree andrun by the Pro-Forest Foundation,Cerro Blanco protects one of the fewremaining areas of dry tropical forest inEcuador with a rich biodiversity, includ-ing jaguar, puma, howler, and capuchinmonkeys, white-tailed deer, collaredpeccary, coatimundi and crab-eatingraccoon. Cerro Blanco is a bird watch-er’s paradise, with 211 species includ-ing 22 species of birds of prey and asmall population of the threatenedGreat Green Macaw, the symbol of thisProtected Forest. Cerro Blanco’s facil-ities include an outdoor amphitheatermuseum, 4 nature trails, picnic andcamping area, and the Great GreenMacaw Captive Breeding Center.
From January to May, the view iscompletely green and abundantwater allows bird nesting. From Juneto December is the dry season: theleaves’ colors change to brownishred, and trees flower. Don’t miss vis-iting one of the last remains of thisunique ecosystem!
Located at km 16 on the way fromGuayaquil to Salinas, in front ofRoosevelt Academy School, it can beeasily reached by buses of ChongonCompany buses or buses that runfrom the land terminal to the coast, aswell as by taxi. Open every day from8h00 to 16h30. Previous reservationis required for visits during week days.Phone: 287 4946 / 7 – 099 4135 730Entrance fee: $4 adults, $3 children.Guide service is $10 for groups of upto 8 people.E-mail:[email protected] Visits Monday thru Sunday from 8h30to 15h30 without prior reservation.
HISTORIC PARKA natural habitat of mangrove trees,fresh waters of the Daule River, andtropical climate make this 20 acre parkthe perfect setting to bring the pastback to life. In a single day visit, onecan encounter the fauna and flora of theregion in the “wildlife zone”, the histo-ry, cultural manifestations and rural lifein the “traditions zone”, as well as the“urban-architectonic zone”, whichholds original pieces from Guayaquil’santique architecture destroyed by firesin the XIX century, bringing the city ofthe past back to life.
On Sundays the Historic Parkbecomes livelier with cultural andfestive activities. Music, traditionalfood, people dressed up in antiqueclothes, among other activities, addcolor and flavor to this cultural set-
ting. Located only 10 minutes fromthe city, across the Daule River,close to the residential neighbor-hood of Samborondon #3.
Free admission. Open Wednesday toSunday from 9h00 to 16h30. Guideservice is available. You can arrangegroup visits by calling 283 2958ahead of time. Transportation serviceis available next to the entrance ofthe MAAC parking lot in Malecon2000 (Malecon & Loja St.).
PUERTO HONDO MANGROVES Through the formation of anEcological Club, the community ismaking a united effort to conservethe remaining mangroves in the area.Among its projects, the club offersecotourism opportunities. Visit thisbeautiful natural site with exotic floraand fauna!
It is located 17 km away fromGuayaquil, on the way to Salinas.Open every day from 9h00 to 17h00.Prior reservation is required for vis-its from Monday thru Saturday.Phone: 0991400186. The visitor canchoose between a 45 minute tripthrough the water ($10) or adding ona visit to the Environmental Edu -cation Center ($15).
E-mail: [email protected]
Photos courtesy of: Municipio de Guayaquil &Parque Histórico.
HISTORIC PARK
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THEATER
Saturday, December 1st – 20h30Sunday, December 2nd – 19h30“The Magical Christmas Show”Jazz Dance* Place: Teatro Sanchez AguilarAdmission fee: $20 - $30
From Thursday, December 6th untilSaturday, December 8th – 20h30Sunday, December 9th – 19h30“The Legend of the Nutcracker”
The Legend beginsthe night beforeChristmas,Federico and Claraare anxiously wait-ing for the arrival oftheir gifts.
* Place: Teatro Sanchez AguilarAdmission fee: $10 - $30
Friday, December 21st – 10h00“The Little Prince and hisSearch for Truth” * Place: Teatro Centro Cívico EloyAlfaro / Free admission
Friday, December 21st – 14h00“Nutcracker” Musical Theater presentation* Place: Teatro Centro Cívico EloyAlfaro / Free admission
MUSIC
Tuesday, December 4th- 19h00 VAM Jazz Coffee Concert* Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15
Wednesday, December 5th andThursday, December 6th – 18h00 “Raise your Wings” ChorusFestival* Place: Centro Cultural SimónBolívar / Free admission
Wednesday, December 5th – 19h00Cathedral Chorus Concert* Place: Museo Nahim IsaíasFree admission
Saturday, December 8th – 19h00Ecuadorian MusicPresentation: César AugustoMontalvo* Place: Centro Cultural SimónBolívarFree admission
Tuesday December 11th – 19h00“Le Tango” Coffee Concert* Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15
Thursday, December 13th – 19h00Strings and Wind InstrumentsConcert* Place: Museo Presley NortonFree admission
Tuesday, December 18th – 19h00“Guayabera Blues”Coffee Concert
* Place: Teatro Sanchez Aguilar Admission fee: $15
Tuesday, December 18th – 19h00Instrumental EnsembleConcert of Guayaquil andGuayaquil Electro AcousticCenter* Place: Centro Cultural SimónBolivar
EXHIBITS
Wednesday, December 12th open until December 2013“Encounters and Ruptures" Geographic plastic Ecuadorian Art ofthe Twentieth Century.* Place: Centro Cultural SimónBolivar / Free admission
Thursday, December 13th thruJanuary 2013“GLOB-ALL-MIX”: Posters fora Sustainable World * Place: Centro Cultural SimónBolívar / Free admission
Friday, December 14th thru January 2013Painting Exhibit:“Imaginarium" by Carolina Carrasco* Place: Centro Cultural SimónBolivar / Free admission
Wednesday, December 19th thruWednesday, January 16th, 2013Art Exhibit “Portrait of aLady”: Reflections of theEcuadorian Idiosyncrasy* Place: Museo Nahim Isaías
Free admission
* ADDRESSES:
• Teatro Sanchez Aguilar: Av. Río Esmeralda Km. 1,5 on the way to Samborondón. P: (+593 4) 209 7447
• Teatro Centro Cívico Eloy Alfaro:Guaranda y García Goyena - ParqueForestal, Guayaquil
• Centro Cultural Simón Bolívar:Malecón Simón Bolívar & Loja(next to the Imax Theater) P: (+593 4) 230 9384 ext.221
• Museo Nahim Isaías: Pichincha & Clemente Ballén. P: (+593 4) 232 4182
• Museo Presley Norton:Corner of Av. 9 de Octubre & Carchi.P: 229 3423
CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - GUAYAQUIL
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TOURISTATTRACTIONS1. Malecon El Salado2. Las Peñas neighborhood3. Santa Ana hillMalecon 2000:4. IMAX5. Moorish Clock Tower6. Crystal Palace
PARKS &MONUMENTS7. Historical Park8. Centenario Park9. Seminario Park10. La Rotonda
MUSEUMS11. Casa de la Cultura
12. Municipal13. Nahim Isaias14. Naval Museum15. MAAC16. The Firefighters Museum
CHURCHES17. Cathedral18. La Merced19. Santo Domingo
PUBLIC SERVICES20. Post Office21. Communications22. Guayas Province Government23. Municipal Palace
TELEPHONE CO.
BANKS & EXCHANGE
HOSPITALS24. Kennedy25. General Hospital
AIRPORT
SHOPPING & HANDICRAFTS26. Aventura Plaza27. Mall del Sol28. Garzocentro29. Plaza Quil30. San Marino Shopping
31. Policentro 32. Las Vitrinas33. Handicraft Market Malecon 200034. Handicraft Market Loja
HOTELS35. Sheraton36. Hilton Colon37. Howard Johnson38. Sonesta39. Oro Verde40. Grand Hotel Guayaquil41. Mansión del Río42. CityPlaza43. Palace44. Unipark45. Continental46. HM
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PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL
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GUAYAQUIL-ECUADOR
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PREMIUM HOTELS - GUAYAQUIL
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RESTAURANTS AND CAFETERIAS - GUAYAQUIL
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point on the planet’s surface (becausethe Earth is wider at the Tropics).
Ecuador has twelve peaks over16,000 ft. The country offers oppor-tunities to hike, trek and mountainclimb for all skill levels. Ecuador’sAndes hold numerous breathtakingview sites: lagoons, extensiveparamos (moorlands), and mysteri-ous cloudforests… Moreover, theindigenous communities of theregion are known for their colorfulfolklore and remarkable weavingabilities. Several activities can beenjoyed: birdwatching, biking, watersports on the lakes, interacting withindigenous communities, visitingrose plantations, savoring delicioustraditional dishes, and much more.The colonial cities of Quito andCuenca have both been declaredWorld Cultural Heritage Sites. Withineasy reach from these cities you canvisit impressive natural sites.
MOUNTAIN CLIMBINGASEGUIM is the association ofmountain climbing guides ofEcuador. We recommend that if youplan to do mountain climbing at anylevel, you contact them to accessprofessional and certified guides.They also offer rescue operations.Phone: (02) 222-2954, cell: 0999 822 363; www.aseguim.org
Many of the provinces in Ecuador’shighlands are named after the mostimportant mountain or volcano inits territory: Imbabura, Pichincha,Cotopaxi, Tungurahua, andChimborazo. Most of the names ofthe mountains have their origin inan indigenous tongue, mostlyQuichua. The word “Andes” itselfcomes from ANTI, which means“where the sun rises”.
The Ecuadorian Andes include sev-eral active volcanoes. Ecuadorianshave witnessed and still can experi-ence numerous volcanic eruptions.“Tungurahua” comes from “Tunguri”(esophagus) and Awa (fire); andindeed this volcano spits fire! It is anexciting experience to observe thevolcano in action, and as for now it issafe, from a distance, of course. Thetown of Baños, a favorite spot fortourists, is located on the outskirts ofthe volcano.
The Ecuadorian Andes are the onlysite on the planet where theEquatorial Line crosses over high-lands; in the rest of the world, theEquator crosses through densetropical forests or the ocean. Thepre-Incan cultures that inhabitedQuito and its surroundings devel-oped their astronomical knowledgewith the help of the clear landmarkssurrounding the city.
Alexander von Humboldt explored theEcuadorian Andes and their valleys in1802. He named them “The Avenue ofthe Volcanoes”. He believed that hehad reached the highest point in theworld when he attempted to climb theChimborazo volcano (20,702 ft), sincethe Himalayas were still unknown inEurope at the time. If measured fromthe center of the Earth, the peak of theChimborazo is indeed the furthest
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“EL PASE DEL NIÑO”IN CUENCAThe “Pase del Niño” processions aremade to honor Jesus Child, carrying animage usually dressed up with very ele-gant clothing of silk and velvet stitchedwith gold and silver decorations. Theyhave a massive participation, and areorganized year after year in the city ofCuenca and its surrounding towns.They start on the first Sunday of Adventand end on Carnival Tuesday.
The most important among all Passes isthe one in honor to the “Niño Viajero”(Traveling Child) which is celebratedeach year on December 24th in Cuenca.The image of Jesus used for this proces-sion was sculpted in 1823, and its lastowner, Monsignor Miguel CorderoCrespo, did a pilgrimage to differentplaces of Holy Land in 1961 along with
the image, which was blessed by PopeJohn 23rd at the end of the trip. When hereturned to Cuenca, the enthusiasticpeople gave the sculpture the name of“Niño Viajero” and from then on a cult ofworship with much pomp is offered onChristmas day. The parade includes sev-eral colorful allegorical cars, popularbands, and children wearing biblical
characters’ costumes, as well as cloth-ing of several Ecuadorian ethnic and cul-tural groups. They ride horses and carryofferings to Jesus Child that includefood, candies, bottles of liquor and toys.The “Pase del Niño Viajero” generallystarts at 10 am on Ordoñez Lazo Avenue,and travels along the Simón BolívarStreet downtown until about 3 pm.
Calderon is 15km (9 miles) North of thecity of Quito. With a mild climate and asandy dry land, this rural community isa craft center of marzipan figurines, verycolorful and decorated, well-liked bylocals and tourists as well.
Marzipan is the mixture of flour and water,kneaded and given forms. This dough inearly years was made of corn flour andwater, prepared for the traditional guagua
de pan (bread children), especially madefor the tradition of All Souls Day, cele-brated on November 2nd. In 1938,Margarita Poveda Reza took this skill seri-ously and created art in marzipan. Thisyoung curious lady started experimentingwith this edible dough, making the massof a moldable and firmer consistency,allowing the traditional “guaguas de pan”to become decorated with flowers, fila-ments and colors.
These marzipan figurines became verypopular and known, providing a newsource of employment and economicindependence for women in this com-munity. Today the figurines haveexpanded their market and now differ-ent figures such as pins, frames, orna-ments are made in different shapes forany occasion. You can find beautifulChristmas ornaments, miniature NativityScenes entirely made of marzipan, allinexpensive and they will be carefullypacked for you to take home.
Around 90% of the families in Calderon,especially women, worked on marzipancrafts in the eighties. Today this tradi-tional skill is in the hands of only a fewfamilies. These figurines can be foundin many of the fairs around Christmastime, and if you are going to the OtavaloIndian Market, stop by Calderón andsee the artisans at work!
THIS MONTH’STRADITIONS
MARZIPAN FIGURINES
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HACIENDA PINSAQUI(OTAVALO - IMBABURA)First constructed in 1790, with threecenturies of history, romanticHacienda Pinsaqui invites you to bea part of its magic and legends…
Hacienda Pinsaqui offers all thefacilities for an unforgettable visit:30 luxurious suites with fireplaces(some with Jacuzzi bath), restau-rant, 200 year old gardens with anartificial lake, horseback riding, his-torical chapel, and a reading roomwith fireplaces.
Reservations & Information:Phone: (593-6) 294 6116 / 117Cel phone: (593-9) 972 7652Address: Panamericana Norte Km 5 [email protected]
HACIENDA CUSIN (SAN PABLO - IMBABURA)Preserving a historic ambiance,Hacienda Cusin’s new Englishowner established a country inn of45 guestrooms, suites and garden-cottages. Cusin’s terracotta rooftiles, white walls, towers, cobble-stone and fountain courtyards nestlebeneath a deep-blue sky in a wide,pastoral, lake valley. Nearby LagoSan Pablo reflects the 15,000 feethigh Imbabura mountain. Located 90minutes North of Quito and 15 min-utes South of Otavalo, it offers: val-ley/mountain trails, horseback riding,mountain climbing, bird watching,volleyball and squash courts, gameroom, children’s playground, library,extensive video library, craft & marketvillage tours, and Spanish lessons.
Reservations & Information:Phone: (593-6) 291 8316 / [email protected]
HACIENDA LA COMPAÑÍA(CAYAMBE- PICHINCHA)One of the outstanding features ofHacienda La Compañía is the housebuilt in French Republican style, whichdates back to 1919 and has been in thehands of the same family for genera-tions. The charm of the house is com-plemented with the striking decorationsof thousands of roses which are broughtfrom the Flower Farm belonging to thesame family. The owners greet visitorspersonally and serve breakfast or lunchwith traditional ingredients and ahomey feel. Visitors are then invited tothe Rose Farm to admire the wondersbehind all of those flowers back at thehouse: the people, the methods, thecare in each detail, and moreover, thespecial awareness involved in thesocial and environmental processes.
Prior reservation is required for a visit.Phone: (593 2) 224 7825Cel phone: (593 9) 769 4174 [email protected]
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HOSTERIA UZHUPUD(AZUAY)A wonderful place in the highlands ofEcuador. Hosteria Uzhupud is locatedalong the banks of the Paute River,thirty minutes from Cuenca.Traditional colonial architecture andnature blend together to remind vis-itors of the pleasure and privilege ofliving. Uzhupud means “Hot ChiliPepper Valley”. Hostería Uzhupud isa delightful place to visit and stay.The “Hacienda” has a wonderful his-tory and dates back over 100 years.Eulalia Vintimilla de Crespo, one ofthe family matriarchs, also produceda recipe book named “El Sabor delos Recuerdos,” quite famous inEcuador. Enjoy her recipes in therestaurant Doña Eulalia.
Reservations & Information:Phone: (593-7) 222 8339Fax: (593-7) 222 8373 Address: Km 32 Cuenca-Paute roadwww.uzhupud.come-mail: [email protected]
PREMIUM HACIENDAS - ANDES
POSADA INGAPIRCA(CAÑAR)Located in the most beautiful and mys-terious region in the Province of Cañar,it is a charming and old country housesituated 500 meters from the mostimportant archeological complex inEcuador. You can also explore theIncan and Cañaris ruins, where you canenjoy the Andean landscape, as well asthe peace and harmony that nature hasto offer. It is an unforgettable experi-ence. Our establishment and staffstrive to meet all the needs and anyspecial requests of our clients. It spe-cializes in traditional Ecuadorian cui-sine. All rooms are carpeted, with heat-ing & private bathroom. There is also agame room with a fireplace, greenareas, bar and restaurant.
Reservations & Information:Phone: (593-7) 282 7401 / 283 1120Fax: (593-7) 283 2340Cuenca office: Calle Larga 693 &[email protected]
HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO (COTOPAXI)One hour south of Quito nestledwithin the Avenue of the Volcanoesstands this unique hacienda, SanAgustin de Callo, built on the site ofan Inca palace, and one of the mostimportant archaeological Inca sitesin Ecuador. It is the point furthestnorth from Cusco of Imperial styleconstruction and constitutes the onlylived-in museum of Inca Imperial andSpanish Colonial style. The locationof the site at the foot of Cotopaxi,highest active volcano in the world,near Indian villages and local mar-kets, with its historical significanceand archaeological value and itsarchitectural blend of unusual stylescontribute to make San Agustin aunique and magical place to stay.
Reservations & Information:Quito - (593-2) 290 6157 / 8Hacienda - (593-3) 271 [email protected]
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THE NORTHERNANDES
early in the morning in their strawcanoes, and also bathe and washtheir clothes in this lake during theday. There are inns, farms andrestaurants where you can spend aweekend or just a day full of enter-tainment around the lake. You canalso take a boat ride around the lake,or enjoy other water sports such assailing, water skiing, jet skiing, etc.
OTAVALO INDIGENOUS MARKETOtavalo is a small city of about50,000 inhabitants. It lies at 8,300 ftabove sea level in a spring-like val-ley, situated between the Imbaburavolcano (15,118 feet) and theCotacachi volcano (16,200 feet).The most famous indigenous marketin Ecuador is held here. Although themarket is bigger on Saturdays, youcan visit it any day and find animpressive variety of all kinds of
Mountains, Lakes& FolkloreThe Northern Sierra offers magnifi-cent scenery of volcanoes, sparklinglakes and patchwork-covered hills.Taking the Panamericana highwaynorth of Quito, the first highlight isthe Cayambe volcano (18,997 ft),crossed by the Equator. This snow-peak overlooks the city with the
same name, which in the last decadehas grown in importance because ofthe rose plantations. Flowers areEcuador’s fourth largest export.Renowned in Cayambe are thehome-made cheese and bizcochos(buttery biscuits).
Further north is the province ofImbabura (see map on next page). Avisit to Ecuador is never completewithout at least a few days spenthere, the province of lakes andmountains, inspiring landscapes andfolklore. This province is only 50miles north of Quito on the Pan-American Highway.
ATTRACTIONS IN IMBABURASAN PABLO LAKE This is the largest lake in theprovince. Indigenous people fish
OTAVALO
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Tumbabiro
Gas stationSightseeingAirportArchaeologyHandicraftsTypical foodThermal SpringsCapital of ProvinceCities / townsPan- American HighwaySecondary road
LEGENDS TOURIST SITES . LODGING
Mojanda Lake
Hacienda Cusín
Hostería Puerto Lago
San Pablo lake
Yaguarcocha Lake
Hacienda La Compañía
Otavalo Indigenous Market
Cuicocha lake
Cotacachi Leather Market
Peguche Waterfalls
Hostería Hacienda Pinsaquí
Hostería La Mirage
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Ecuadorian handicrafts. At dawn youmay see indigenous people arriving atthe market place from many mountaintrails surrounding the city. They comefrom nearby villages and towns suchas Peguche, Agato and Iluman, to selltheir products. One may visit theworkshops of these local weaversworking on back strap and Spanishtreadle looms, as well as other arti-sans at work making felt hats, knittingsweaters or weaving straw mats.
COTACACHI VILLAGEThis village is known for its leather-work. You can find an excellent choiceof jackets, skirts, boots, briefcases,bags, riding equipment and wallets.Cotacachi is home to the only highschool in Ecuador that teaches leatherwork. They specialize in shoes, how-ever, they teach the students to makeall leather products.
CUICOCHA LAKE The crater lake has an impressivelandscape of deep blue waters sur-rounded by hills. Take a hike aroundthe lake (4 to 5 hours). If you arelucky, you will see a condor.
CONDOR PARKJust 3 miles away from Otavalo, theCondor Park was laid out. This thirty-acre park is managed by a foundationdedicated to the care and rescue ofpredatory birds such as hawks,eagles, vultures and owls.
This park is unique in many ways. Itis located on a hill known as the“Pukara Alto”, an energetic centersince pre-Columbian times, whereruins remain of a religious pre-Inca
temple. The sights are amazing, 360degrees around of mountains, lake,valleys and towns.
Large cages are distributed along acobblestone walk through the park toadmire a variety of birds such as theBarred Hawk, the King Vulture, theGreater Red-Headed Vulture, theSpectacled Owl, the Arctic Owl, theMottled Owl, among others. Finally,you will run into the large cage of theimpressive but endangered AndeanCondor (Vultur gryphus), now easilybred in captivity. Open from Tuesday thru Sundayfrom 9h30 to 17h00. Admissionfee: $3,50 for adults, $1,75 childrenand senior citizens. Phone: 098 [email protected]
SAN ANTONIOShortly before entering Ibarra, aright-hand turn leads into SanAntonio, the home of expert woodcarvers. As you visit the variousshops, you will marvel at their talent.Visitors can watch some of thecraftsmen at work in their studios.
IBARRA CITYThis clean, freshly painted colonialcity, capital of the province, is alsoknown as the white city. It lies at7,000 ft, and has a population ofapproximately 110,000. Ibarra enjoysone of the best climates of the Sierra.Typical products include arrope demora (blackberry syrup) and nogadas(a sweet made with walnuts). Don’tmiss the delicious “paila” ice creams(whipped natural fruit).
YAGUARCOCHA LAKEThis lake is only a short distancefrom the center of Ibarra. Its namemeans “blood lake”. Years ago, abloody battle among indigenouspeoples took place at this lake, thusthe name. Now Yaguarcocha ishome to an auto racetrack. Every sooften international car racing eventstake place here.
ATTRACTIONS IN CARCHICarchi is the northernmost provinceof the Ecuadorian sierra. TheProvince borders with Colombia.
EL ANGEL ECOLOGICALRESERVEThe 15,715 hectares of this EcologicalReserve lie at 11,950 to 15,640 ft. Theparamo in El Angel is covered bygigantic “Frailejones” (Espeletia pyc-nophylla), a plant specie that is onlyfound in the high paramo ecosystem.
Another plant species in the reserveare the Polylepis trees, which havemany layers covering their trunks forinsulation. Given that the layers ofthese trunks are thin and can be tornlike paper, they are locally known as“arboles de papel” (paper trees).
El Angel is considered a water spongeas the area provides water for theentire province. Several rivers havetheir origin at El Angel and jointogether to form the basin of the Miraand El Angel Rivers. Beautiful lagoonsare also found at this Reserve.
Photos by: Ministerio de Turismo& Gustavo Vallejo.
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PREMIUM SERVICES - NORTHERN ANDES
Reservations: (593-6) 2915-237 / 2915 -077Cotacachi-Ecuador
LA MIRAGE - EL COLIBRI
Gourmet Restaurant
Superb National and International Cuisine
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sites that date back to 1500 BC.These archeological remains arealigned with the summer solsticeand the winter equinox, demonstrat-ing that the native people had animpressive knowledge of the courseof the sun. These cultures arebelieved to have migrated from theEcuadorian Coast.
Quitsato, the original name of thecity, means “Middle of the Earth” inthe ancient ‘tsafiqui’ language. Quitois the only site on the planet wherethe Equator crosses over highlands.On the rest of the Earth’s surface, itcrosses through jungle or ocean.Therefore, the pre-Inca cultures wereable to develop their astronomicalknowledge with the help of the clearlandmarks surrounding the city: thePichincha volcano (15,000 ft) to theWest, the Antisana (18,700 ft) to theeast, and the peak of the snow-capedCayambe (18,725 ft) to theNortheast, almost precisely on theEquator. The city itself emerges over
Quito:First World Heritage SitePhotos courtesy of: Quito Tourismwww.quito.com.ec
Besides its amazing landscapes,Quito is known for its treasures ofcolonial churches, paintings, sculp-tures and carvings. The SpanishColonial Period extends from the XVIto the XVIII Century. Ecuadorian colo-nial art combines the EuropeanRenaissance and Baroque styles withthe indigenous and mestizo influ-ences. With the arrival of theSpaniards, the Roman CatholicChurch became the center of religiousinstruction and the largest patron ofthe arts. As part of the acculturation ofthe indigenous people, the Spanishestablished painting and sculpture
schools where Spanish artists trainedthe indigenous population in the arts.As a result, the Quitenian School(Escuela Quiteña) became famous inLatin America for its talented artists,including Bernardo de Legarda and theindigenous artists Caspicara andPampite. Miguel de Santiago, Javierde Goribar, Manuel Samaniego andPadre Bedón were othe outstandingrepresentatives of this art school.Scholars consider their contributionsto colonial art as some of the mostvaluable in America. Thus, theUNESCO declared Quito a “WorldCultural Heritage Site” in 1978.
However, the history of Quitostretches far beyond the arrival of theSpaniards. Before the SpaniardSebastian de Benalcázar conqueredthe city in 1534, the Incas had con-quered it in the XV century. At thetime when the Incas arrived, theyfound an organized civilization: theShyris. Furthermore, recent discov-eries have uncovered archeological
QUITO
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altar. The choir, the stone Episcopalchair, the central painting by ManuelSamaniego and the statues byCaspicara are in neoclassical style.A museum that displays the clothesused by the priests on the XVII cen-tury (“casullas”), choral books andsilver pieces of the church is openMonday thru Saturday from 9h30 to17h30. Guided tour is $1.50 foradults and $1 for children. Phone: 257 0371.
CENTRO CULTURALMETROPOLITANOThe cultural centre is located on thecorner of the Main Square, next tothe Government’s Palace. TheJesuits originally constructed thisbuilding in the XVII Century. In 1767,when Charles III of Spain banishedthe Jesuit Order from the colonizedterritories, the buildings became apublic University. In the last decadeof the XVIII century, the buildingsbecame the army headquarters of theSpanish Royal troops sent from Limato repress the early independenceefforts. Thus, the building wasknown as the “Royal Barrack ofLima”. In this building, the heroicefforts for independence ended up ina massacre of a number of patriotsfrom Quito on August 2, 1810. TheAlberto Mena Caamaño Museumdisplays this massacre with life-sizewax sculptures, as well as otherimportant scenes of Quito’s history.The Cultural Center also holds amuseum of colonial art and theMunicipal Library as well. There isalso a Contemporary Art exhibitroom, which houses temporary exhi-bitions. Open Tuesday thru Sundayfrom 9h00 to 18h00. Admission feeto the museum is $1.50; studentsand senior citizens $0.75; children$0.50. Phone: 295-7062.
EL SAGRARIOThis church was originally the mainchapel of the Cathedral, built for thecult of the Holy Sacrament. It has beenkept for this service to this day. Thestone facade with its ornamentedSalomon columns is an excellent
9,184 ft above sea level; it is the sec-ond highest capital in the world. Thus,Quito could be considered the bestnatural astronomical observatory.
Quito extends along the Eastern sideof the Pichincha volcano. The city islong and thin, with a length ofapprox. 22 miles and a width of 2-3miles. The temperature in the cityvaries along the day… in the earlymorning and at night it can bearound 10ºC, and at noon it canreach up to 25ºC. The geographicalconditions of the zone give place toa number of ecosystems, thus,Quito’s surroundings offer a diversi-ty of landscapes, each with uniqueflora and fauna.
SIGHTSEEINGWe suggest that you to begin yoursightseeing at “La Plaza de laIndependencia”, from where you canwalk to most of the downtown sites.This main plaza is surrounded byfour buildings that represent the fourruling powers of the colonial period:the Government Palace to the west,the Municipal Palace to the east, theArchbishop’s Palace to the north,and the Cathedral to the south.
THE GOVERNMENT PALACEIt is not possible to visit the interiorsof the palace, however, from theentrance door one is able to appreci-
ate the Andalusian patios that havehalf-point arches and water fountainsin the center. You can see a scalemodel of the Independence Squaredisplayed at the entrance to thePalace.
THE CATHEDRALThis church holds an interesting col-lection of sculptures and paintingsfrom the Escuela Quiteña. Among themost important is the “Descending ofChrist” by Caspicara. It is a master-piece of expressionism. As in mostEcuadorian and Latin Americanchurches, many styles are used inthe construction of the Cathedral:late Gothic in the arches, Moorish inthe ceilings and Baroque in the main
LA COMPAÑIALA COMPAÑIA
INDEPENDENCE SQUARE
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SAN FRANCISCO MUSEUMLocated next to the church at the SanFrancisco Square. The zaguan(entrance hall), the main cloister,the renaissance stairway, the chorusand the exposition lounge are nowthe site of a number of selectedworks of the Franciscan collection.You can find works of AndrésSánchez Galque (of indigenous ori-gin), Miguel de Santiago, MateoMexía, the European authorsZurbarán and Bernardo de Bitti, withtheir respective schools, amongothers of the XVI-XVIII centuries.Among the sculptures, you can findthe glass eyes characteristic of theXVIII century. You will also findpieces of furniture from the XVIIIcentury. The museum is called FrayPedro Gocial in honor of the firstpainting instructor. Open Mondaythru Saturday 09h00 to 17h30,Sunday 9h00 to 13h30.
Admission fee: $ 2 adults, $1 chil-dren. Phone: 295 2911.
MUSEUM OF COLONIAL ARTAfter half a decade of refurbishment,one of Quito’s oldest and mostemblematic museums reopened atthe end of April 2010. The Museum
frame for a high Baroque that leavespractically no space without orna-mentation. This style is typical ofBernardo de Legarda’s sculpture. It islocated next to the Cathedral.Visiting hours: Mon–Fri: 9h-17h00,Sat: 07h-20h00, Sun 07h-13h00.Admission is free. For more information, call 228 4398.
SAN FRANCISCO CHURCH AND PLAZAThis complex gave the capital ofEcuador its proper name: SanFrancisco de Quito. It is the oldestin Quito, built in 1536-1580. SanFrancisco is the biggest religiousarchitectonic complex in America,with over 8,670 acres, includingthe convent with 6 internal patios.The atrium running along one sideof the plaza opens in the middle togive way to a beautiful staircase.The facade has a style similar tothat of the Escorial in Spain. Theinside is Baroque style. The cofferceiling in the narthex has richMoorish style ornamentation withpaintings by Miguel de Santiago. Itis interesting to note among theornate details images of the sungod, the Inca divinity. The mainaltar holds the original masterpiece
by Legarda: “La Virgen de Quito”(Quito’s Virgin). This sculpture isthe only winged image of VirginMary in colonial art.
The San Francisco Plaza was anantique “Tianguez”, which means‘market’ in the native Nahuatl lan-guage. During Pre-Columbian times,Plaza San Francisco was a livelycommercial center, hosting approxi-mately ten ethnic dominations fromthe neighboring valleys. SanFrancisco is located between Sucreand Bolívar Streets. Church visitinghours: Friday thru Sunday 17h00-18h00. Free admission. Phone: 2959911.
CANTUÑA CHAPEL Located at one side of the SanFrancisco atrium. The Calvary wood-carvings on the main altar are someof Legarda’s most outstanding mas-terpieces. A legend of the chapelsays that Francisco Cantuña (theindigenous man that paved the atri-um with arge stone blocks) con-structed the chapel with the treas-ures saved from the Kingdom ofQuito. Visiting hours: Tuesday thruThursday 8h00 - 17h00. Free admis-sion. Phone: 2281124.
SAN FRANCISCOSAN FRANCISCO
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incredible clustered Baroque on thetribunes on both sides of the mainaltar, in the pulpit, and in the lateralchapels. Everything is covered withgold leaf. It is a magnificent exhibit offoliage, vines, fruits, birds and cary-atids. The Holy Trinity in the mainaltar and the images of Saint Francisand Saint Ignatius in the side altarsare works of the famous Legarda.Paintings of the prophets and worksof Goribar hang in the majesticarchery that divides the aisles. It islocated at Benalcazar St. OpenMonday thru Friday 09h30 to 17h30,Saturdays and holidays 09h30 to16h30, Sundays 13h30 to 16h30.Phone: 2581895. Admission fee isUS$ 3, and includes guide service.
MARÍA AUGUSTA URRUTIA MUSEUMLocated at García Moreno 760. Followthe life and activities of a wealthy andvery generous woman of Quito’s earlyXX century. Observe the architectureof a typical house in colonial Quito.Enjoy the beautifully decorated inte-riors (especially the Frenchantiques), and the distinctive cloth-ing and artifacts of the time. Open
of Colonial Art houses a fantasticcollection of works from the 16th to19th centuries, ranking among themost important in the country. Themuseum is housed within a beautifulcolonial mansion, which dates backto the late XVI century.
Located at the corner of Cuenca andMejía St. Open Tuesday to Friday 9h-17h00, Sat 10h-14h00. Phone:2282-297. Free Admission.
CASA DEL ALABADO MUSEUMOF PRE-COLOMBIAN ARTIn the San Roque neighborhood, epi-center of popular uprisings, you findthis private museum, housed in abuilding that has been known sincetime immemorial as the “Casa delAlabado” (literally, the House ofPraise). Its name derives from themagnificent central doorway con-structed of stone, whose lintel bearsthe following inscription: “Praise beto the most Blessed Sacrament. Thisportal was completed on the first ofJuly in the year 1671.”
A fine selection of 500 pre-Columbian pieces make up theMuseum’s permanent exhibition,and the guidebook, with both scien-tific and museological content,invites the public to discover theworldview of indigenous Americansand explore the aesthetic and techni-cal excellence achieved by ancientartists as they worked an array of rawmaterials. By offering visitors theopportunity to visit 14 thematic gal-leries, the Museum intends to helpeach visitor understand the philoso-phy of indigenous Americans, espe-cially the importance of preservinglife by maintaining both the flow ofcosmic energy and spiritual commu-nication between the distinct worldsthat make up the universe.
The Museum is emphatic about itseducational mission. For this pur-pose, they offer audio guides in sev-eral languages, multimedia pro-grams, interactive resources insome galleries, and special work-shops and guided visits for visitors
who wish to take advantage of theMuseum’s resources interactivelyand through play.
Calle Cuenca N1-41 entre Bolívar &Rocafuerte, Quito Centro - Ecuador.Open Tuesdays - Saturdays 9h30 –17h30, Sundays and holidays from10h00 to 16h00. Admission fee:adults $4, students $2, children andseniors $1, students with ID $1.50http://alabado.orgPhone: 2280940
LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚSCHURCH This is one of the richest churches inAmerica. The extraordinary facadecan be described as a lacework onstone. Six Salomonic columns in thelower part support a second body ofdifferent widths, reminiscent of theChurch of Gesu in Rome. Thecolumns are a copy of those byBernini in the Vatican. The splendorthat meets your eye as you go intothe church is unforgettable: the vault-ed ceiling and the walls with beauti-ful Moorish ornamentation, the per-fect harmony and the richness of themain altar, the reproduction of theSalomon columns of the facade, the
LA COMPAÑÍA DE JESÚS CHURCHCOURTESY OF FRANCISCO CAIZAPANTA J.
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Guayaquil Streets. The construction ofthis church was finished in 1538 andhas been remodeled due to earth-quake damage. The vault underneaththe chorus, the wood carved columns,and the gilded altars are the onlyremains of the original construction.
SAN AGUSTIN CONVENTThe first thing to admire here are thebeautiful cloisters in three different lev-els, the fountain in the colonial patiocarved from a single block of stone,the coffer ceiling in the lower cloister,and the huge collection of paintings bythe artist Miguel de Santiago. Theartist spent most of his life working inthe convent to finish the task of paint-ing the scenes of St. Augustine’slife.Open Monday thru Friday 09h00-12h30 and 14h30-17h00. Saturday9h00 to 13h00. Admission is $2, chil-dren is $0.50 and senior citizens $1.Phone: 295 5525.
SALA CAPITULARIn this same convent you will findone of the most important historicalsites in Spanish America. The firstAct of Independence was signedhere on August 10th, 1809. TheCalvary masterpiece by a XVII centu-ry Quitenian artist named Olmos islocated to the right of this largeroom. Entrance fee: US$ 1.
JUNÍN STREETThis charming street is in the down-town colonial district of Quito.Colorful houses and decorated bal-conies together with a peacefulatmosphere make it a place worth vis-iting. Along the street you can visit:Manuela Saenz Museum, theEcuadorian Architecture Museum, theNational Watercolour Museum, theXVI Century San Marcos Church,Engravers from the Quitenian Schoolof Art, and a famous guitar factory.
LA MERCED CHURCH AND CONVENTOne can admire a stone-carved pagangod, Neptune. Also noticeable areBernardo Legarda’s main altar wood-carvings and the beautiful image of
Tuesdays to Fridays from 10h00 to18h00, weekends 9h30 to 17h30.Admission fee: $2 for adults, $1senior citizens and $0.50 children(includes a guided tour). For moreinformation call: 258-0103.
MUSEO DE LA CIUDADLocated at García Moreno 572 andRocafuerte, this museum is openTuesday thru Sunday from 9h30 to17h30. Follow everyday Quito lifethrough the centuries in this beauti-ful colonial building that once wasthe San Juan de Dios Hospital(1565). Entrance fee: $3 adults, $2
students, $1 children and senior cit-izens. Nighttime tours with theatricalrepresentations upon request. Price:$5 per person (includes a cocktail).Phone: 228 3882/3.
LA RONDA A stroll through La Ronda is a great wayto get a feeling of traditional life incolonial Quito. Within only two blocks,one finds artisans working on tradition-al handicrafts such as candles andembroidery, many “tiendas” (smallstores), bakeries and traditional restau-rants. Moreover, a variety of culturalactivities are organized both on thestreet and inside the different bars andcafeterias. During the late XIX and earlyXX Centuries, La Ronda was home toseveral musicians, poets, historiansand other important figures of Quito’shistory. This neighborhood inspiredpoetry and some of the most romantic“Pasillos” (traditional music).
BENALCAZARHOUSE-MUSEUMThis museum displays paintings ofthe XVII century and sculptures of theXVII and XIII century. It is located atOlmedo and Benalcazar St. OpenMonday thru to Friday 09h30 to13h00 and 15h30 to 19h00.
SAN AGUSTIN CHURCHLocated at the corner of Chile and
LA MERCED
LA RONDA ST.
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of TeleferiQo you can enjoy VulQanoPark, offering carts, roller coastersand other exciting games for childrenof all ages. Phone: 222 2997
GUAYASAMÍN MUSEUM AND “LA CAPILLA DEL HOMBRE”A stop at Guayasamin’s house-museum is a must for any visitor toQuito. This museum exhibits anexcellent sample of pre-Columbian,colonial and contemporary art fromthe private collections of thefamous Ecuadorian artist OswaldoGuayasamín (1919-1999). Shortly before his death, OswaldoGuayasamín donated these collec-tions and his works to the city ofQuito. The museum is open Mondaythru Friday from 10h00 to 17h00.Entrance fee: $4.00 adults. Close to the house-museum, is “LaCapilla del Hombre” (Man’s Chapel). Guayasamín dreamed that his chapelwould pay tribute to the American pre-Columbian man. It is a rectangularconstruction of two floors, with astrong similarity to Incan temples. Partof the roof is a dome covered with cop-per plate. Inside it is covered with anunfinished mural of the artist, whichwas left intact. The altar of the Chapelholds an eternal flame in defense ofpeace and human rights. Open Tuesday thru Sunday from 10h00to 17h00. Entrance fee: $4.00 adults,$2.00 senior citizens & students.Phone: (593-2) 333-0722 / 723.
Our Lady of Mercy in stone. Visitinghours: Monday thru Saturday from7h00-12h00 and 14h30-17h30. Freeadmission. Phone: 2280743.
CAMILO EGAS MUSEUMThis museum was created to honorone of the most celebratedEcuadorian artists of the XX century.It holds a permanent exhibit ofCamilo Egas’ paintings, in a displaythat allows one to learn about the dif-ferent phases in which the artistworked (indigenism, expressionism,surrealism, cubism and abstractionof the shape) in a didactical andhands-on manner.Address: Venezuela 1302 andEsmeraldas. Open: Thursday - Friday9h-13h00/weekends and holidays10h-16h00. Free Admission. Phone: 257-2012
CASA SAN LUCAS This antique manor that dates back tothe seventeenth century offers an artgallery with itinerary exhibits, acafe/bar, a musical room with a largescreen where visitors can enjoymusic videos, and much more.Visitors can take a tour through thewhole house, appreciating antiquefurniture, silverware and pieces of art. Open Tuesday – Friday 11h00 -18h00, weekends 10h30- 19h00.Address: Venezuela 1283 andEsmeraldas. Phone: 2950923
SAN DIEGO CONVENTThe Saint Francis congregation builtthis church to provide the priests andlaymen with a place of retreat. Alongthe corridors are paintings datingback to the XVII C, which had beencovered with lime for years and arenow being restored. A genuine mani-festation of syncretism! Open every day 09h30-13h00 and14h30-17h00. Phone: 295 2516.Admission fee: $2.00.
EL PANECILLOMany historical happenings took placeon this natural hill that stands in Quito.“Panecillo” means “little bread” refer-ring to its peculiar size and shape. The
Virgin that stands on the hill, whichconsists of 7,000 pieces of aluminum,is a modern representation of thefamous “Virgen de Quito”, the uniquewinged dancing Virgin conceived byBernardo Legarda in the XVII century.(The original masterpiece can be seenat the main altar of the San FranciscoChurch). There is a balcony in theupper part that provides a beautifulview of the city. Open Monday thruThursday 9h00-18h00, Friday thruSunday 9h00- 21h00. The entrancefee to the interior of the monument is$1 for adults, $0.50 for children.
INTERESTING PLACES INTHE NORTH OF QUITOTELEFERIQOQuito’s TeleferiQo (cable cars) islocated on Cruz Loma, one of thehills on the slopes of the activePichincha volcano (15,000 ft). Thecable cars take off at 9,680 ft andreach 13,287 ft in 8 – 10 min! Onthe way up you can observe how thevegetation changes rapidly with theincreasing altitude. If you are luckyenough to get one of those clearsummer days, you can see the cityat your feet and the Andean moun-tain range in all its splendor! Whenreaching the top, because of thealtitude, make sure to take it easy! Agreat idea is to drink a hot “te decoca” (coca tea) or get some oxy-gen at the oxygenbar. In any case besure to rest beforehiking, horsebackriding, or any otherof the excitingoptions you have ontop. If you areadventurous, youcan climb to thesummit of the“Rucu Pichincha”. The cost of thecable car is $8.50roundtrip. OpenMon day thruSunday from 8h00to 20h00. At the foot
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ANHALZER-VALDIVIESOCOLLECTIONThe showrooms of the Anhalzer-Valdivieso Collection offer visitorsan image of the splendor of ancientEcuador, with a selected presenta-tion of archeology, popular and colo-nial art. Open Monday thru Fridayfrom 9h00 to 19h00. Saturday from10h00 to 18h00. Address: ColónAve. E10-53. Phone: 25-41315.
QUITO BOTANICAL GARDENExplore the fascinating world ofplants! This garden displays morethan 1,200 orchid species, along withother unique flora species of Ecuador!It is located at Rumipamba St. inside“La Carolina” Park. Open Monday thruFriday from 8h00 to 17h00.Weekends 9h00 to 17h00. Admissionfee: $3.50 adults, $2 children.
LA MARISCAL“La Mariscal” can be considered theentertainment district of Quito, whereyou find a variety of restaurants,bars, cafes, internet cafes, Spanishschools, and a large range of hostingoptions. This area is highlighted onthe Quito map in a red square. PlazaEl Quinde (Reina Victoria and Foch)is one of the most popular meetingpoints for both Ecuadorians andtourists. Every Wednesday night at20h30 live music presentations takeplace at this charming Plaza.
GALERIA ECUADOR GOURMETThis unique Galeria holds exclusivequality products 100% made inEcuador. It also includes a cafeteria.Address: Reina Victoria N24-263 &Lizardo Garcia. Phone: 2239469 / 2258440.E-mail: [email protected]
MERCADO ARTESANALThis typical handicraft market offers avariety of handicrafts from all over thecountry for excellent prices, dis-played in more than 100 colorfulstands. If you are not able to visit theOtavalo indigenous market in the
GUÁPULO CHURCHThis sanctuary is located in a littlevillage 1.5 miles heading down fromthe Hotel Quito. The sanctuary canbe reached by car in about 10 min-utes or you can walk down a colonialstone paved path which was theroute followed by Francisco deOrellana on his exploration that leadto the discovery of the AmazonRiver. The facade and the dome ofthe church have a simple neoclassicstyle. The main altar painted byMiguel de Santiago and the imageof our Lady of Guadalupe by Diegode Robles are original masterpieces.Many consider the pulpit carved bythe indigenous sculptor Menacho asthe most beautiful in America. OpenMonday thru Saturday 09h00 to12h30 and 15h00 to 18h00. Phone:256 5652. Entrance fee: US$1.50.
CENTRAL BANK MUSEUMThis museum is located at the “Casade la Cultura” on 6 de Diciembre andPatria Avenues. Pre-Colonial, Colonialand contemporary art appear in 1,417pieces exhibited permanently and intemporary displays. It also presents anopportunity to learn about the origin,evolution and history of Ecuador.
Visiting hours: Tuesday thru Friday09h00 to 17h00/ Weekends and hol-idays 10h00 to 16h00. Free Admission. Guide service avail-able. Phone: 222-3258.
MODERN ART AND MUSICALINSTRUMENTS MUSEUMAs you enter the museum, you firstencounter an important collection ofEcuadorian paintings from the XIXcentury with a variety of themes andstyles: religion, portraits, landscapes,among others. Continuing the visit,you can find important works of art bysome of the most renowned Ecua -dorian artists: Oswaldo Guayasamín,Eduardo Kingman, and Camilo Egas,among others. Following this is theMusical Instruments Museum. Manyof the displayed instruments date topre-Columbian times. Next to thisexhibit you can find an importantethnographic display of the differentindigenous communities of theEcuadorian Andes.Address: Los Espejos Bldg, locatedbetween: 6 de Diciembre, 12 deOctubre and Patria Avenues. There isan entrance at each of the avenues.
Open Tuesday thru Friday from 9h00to 13h00 and from 14h00 to 17h00 /Saturdays from 10h00 to 14h00.
EL EJIDO PARKIt is located at the intersection ofPatria and Amazonas Avenues. If youlike contemporary art, this is theplace to be on weekends. A walk inthe park will bring you face to facewith beautiful paintings and otherhandicrafts. You may bargain withthe artists to get reasonable prices.
MINDALAE- ETHNO-HISTORIC MUSEUM
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“robot” that reproduces images fromthe original walls of one of the burialchambers on a screen so that visitorscan closely admire the traces of theoriginal structure of the chambers.The complex includes a small muse-um that exhibits original objectsfound in the burial chambers. Someof the most impressive pieces arethe spondylus ponchos, which wereworn by only a few of the buried bod-ies of hierarchical importance.Address: Calle Antonio Costa,between Román and Fernando CorralSt., at the San Vicente de La Floridaneighborhood in Northern Quito.Open: Wednesdays thru Sundaysfrom 8h00-16h30. Free admission.
SURROUNDINGSTHE MONUMENT ON THE EQUATORIt is located approximately 20 min-utes away from Quito, at San Antoniode Pichincha. The “Mitad del MundoCity” surrounding the monumentincludes several restaurants andfolklore shops, museums about themissions that measured the Earth,the “Solar Culture Museum” (with adisplay of the latest investigationsabout the real middle of the world),and a Planetarium. Inside the monu-ment is an interesting EthnicMuseum. You can shop and placeone foot on the northern Hemisphereand the other on the southernHemisphere. Entrance fee to the
Imbabura province, this market inQuito is a must. It is located at JorgeWashington St. between ReinaVictoria and Juan Leon Mera St. Openevery day from 10h00 to 19h00.
MINDALAE - ETHNO-HISTORICMUSEUM OF HANDICRAFTS“Mindalae” is the pre-Hispanic nameof the indigenous tradesman who,with his basket tied to his back,walked long distances carrying mer-chandise to offer at the popular mar-ket called “tianguez”. The secondfloor of the museum holds an exhibitof utensils from Amazonian cultures,as well as handicrafts are availablefor sale. The third floor presents adisplay of the origins of the naturalfibers used in textiles, such as seedsand wood from native trees. Finally,at the fourth floor, the museum holdsa demonstration of indigenous skillsin textile production.
Open Monday thru Saturday from9h30 to 17h30. Sundays from10h30 to 16h30. Located at the cor-ner of Reina Victoria and La Niña St.Admission fee: $3 general, $1.50students and senior citizens.
ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITESRUMIPAMBAARCHAEOLOGICALAND ECOLOGICAL PARK The most antique stone walls foundin Quito are those of RumipambaPark, a 32- hectare complex locatedin a former private hacienda, now inthe heart of the city of Quito. Thewalls date back to 400 AD. Rumimeans stone and pamba, pampas orplains. Rumipamba has some hugestones from the last important erup-tion of the nearby Guagua Pichinchavolcano, which took place in 1660.The Rumipamba site includes a gullythat has become a niche for flora andfauna, especially birds. Several floraspecies including trees, medicinalplants, fruits and others, are foundinside the park. It also includes a“culunco”, which is an antique roadconnecting the highlands with thecoast for the commercialization of
products. These roads date back tothe Yumbo culture, a pre- Incan civi-lization that inhabited the cloudforests surrounding Quito.Address: between Occidental,América and Mariana de JesúsAvenues (North West)Open: Wednesdays thru Sundaysfrom 8h00-16h00. Free admission.
LA FLORIDA BURIALCHAMBERSLa Florida Burial Chambers dateback to 220 – 640 AD, belonging tothe Quitus culture.
To this day, the FONSAL has excavat-ed 10 burial chambers, which are15- 17 meters (49– 56 ft) deep and2 meters (6.5 ft) in diameter. Largeamounts of amazing ceramics,spondylus and other shells, jewelry,wooden objects and gold were foundin the chambers alongside hundredsof bodies. The funeral architecturereflects the cosmovision of theQuitus: the human bodies were givenback to Mother Earth’s womb.
In order to present the archaeologicalfindings in a didactic manner, theFONSAL has done a great job ofreproducing one of the burial cham-bers with 16 bodies and their respec-tive ritual objects. The replica of thefaces was done by experts through asystematic reproduction based on theskulls called “forensic medicine”.Moreover, the FONSAL has placed a
LA FLORIDA BURIAL CHAMBERSLA FLORIDA BURIAL CHAMBERS
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“Middle of the World City” is $2.00,to the Ethnic Museum $3.00, to thePlanetarium $1.50. Visiting hours:Monday thru Thursday 09h00-18h00, Friday, Saturday and Sunday09h00-19h00. Phone: 239 4804
INTI-ÑAN SOLAR MUSEUMLocated 200 meters (650 feet) northof the Middle of the World roundabouton Autopista Manuel Córdova Galarza,this didactic in situ museum allowsfor visitors to witness and participatein several experiments that give evi-dence to the fact of being exactly atLatitude 0. Visitors can stand an eggon a nail, witness firsthand theCoriolis effect in the Northern andSouthern hemispheres only a fewmeters away, feel the loss of balancewhen walking along the Equator line,along with other entertaining andimpressive experiences, possible onlyat the Middle of the World! You canalso stamp your passport to docu-ment your visit to Latitude 0.
Furthermore, the museum alsoholds a Solar Clock, anAnthropological Totemic Forest ofthe Andean cultures, typical huts ofpre- Hispanic cultures of theregion, didactic samples ofEcuadorian cultures, as well asnative flora and fauna.
Open Monday thru Sunday from9h30 to 17h30. Phone: 2395122.English speaking guides are avail-able. Guided visit: $3 adults, $1.50children. For more information visitwww.museointinan.com.ec
SURROUNDING VALLEYSThe mountains and cliffs surroundingQuito make it difficult for the city tospread out to the sides, thus, it hasexpanded to the surrounding valleys:Cumbaya, Tumbaco and Los Chillos.Little more than a decade ago, thesevalleys consisted mostly of open pas-tures and country cottages. Now theyoffer all the commodities of a moderncity: supermarkets, malls, schools,universities, hospitals, restaurants,good lodging and even movie the-aters, but they fortunately have main-tained their rustic charm and decid-edly slower pace than Quito.
Only a few kilometers from thebustling city, but several hundredmeters below, the valleys providewarmer weather and a relaxed ruralfeeling, preferred by young familiesand many foreigners who live andwork in Quito.
TULIPE ARCHAEOLOGICALSITE-MUSEUMTulipe was built by the Yumbo peo-ple, who inhabited the north andnorthwestern valleys and mountainsaround Quito from around 800 to1660 AD. It’s thought that the Yumbopeople migrated to the Amazon after
a great eruption of the PichinchaVolcano in 1660, and this theory iscurrently being investigated.
Although disregarded by the Spanishchroniclers and subsequent histori-ans, the site at Tulipe, as well as the2,000 pyramids and mounds nowunearthed, point to an importantnation. It’s thought that it controlledthe crucial trade route between thePacific coast, the Andes and theAmazon to the east. The remains atTulipe suggests it was the civiliza-tion’s main ceremonial site. It ismade up of eight structures, one ofwhich one is of Incan construction,as the conquering Incas built theirtemple on top of the existing one.Water played a primordial role atTulipe, with many pools reflecting itsceremonial importance.
The “Yumbo People InterpretationCentre” houses didactic informa-tion on the site and the Yumbos,and is the starting point for futureinvestigations.
Open Wednesday thru Sunday from09h00 to 17h00. Located betweenthe towns of Nanegalito and Gualea,on the main road Calacali-LaIndependencia, which heads north-west from Quito. Take the sign-post-ed road on the right soon after thesmall town of Nanegalito.
Phone: 285-0635. Admission fee:$3 adults, $1 children and students.
TULIPE ARCHAEOLOGICALSITE-MUSEUM
THE MONUMENT ON THE EQUATOR
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Saturday, December 1st – 08h30Tuesday, December 4th – 16h00 Wooden Cars Race Finals Place: Mejía y Lopez (Túneles del Tejar)
Saturday, December 1stFrom 09h00 thru 16h00Traditional Sweets FairPlace: Plaza San Blas
Saturday, December 1st15h30 thru 19h30“Quiteñadas” Concerts* Place: Teatro Nacional CCEAdmission fee: $20- $60
Saturday, December 1st – 18h00Ecuadorian Magicians Hover Quito* Place: Teatro Nacional CCEAdmission fee: $6, children $3
Sunday, December 2nd – 19h00Jorge Celedón ConcertPlace: Quitumbe
Sunday, December 2nd, MondayDecember 3rd Tuesday, December 4th – Starting at 19h0040 (A traditional card game)World ChampionshipPlace: Best Western Hotel
Monday, December 3rd – 14h00“America Sings to Quito”Place: Parque La Carolina
Monday, December 3rdFrom 15h00 thru 19h00 2nd International StreetTheater FestivalPlace: Parque El Ejido yAdministración zonal Eloy Alfaro
Monday, December 3rd and Tuesday, December 4th – 20h00National Symphony Orchestraof Ecuador Concert* Place: Teatro Nacional CCE
Tuesday, December 4th – 19h00Café Tacuba ConcertPlace: Parque La Carolina
Wednesday, December 5thstarting at 6h00 Local Street Band Contest 2012Place: Plaza San Francisco
Wednesday, December 5th – 19h00 Ruben Blades ConcertPlace: Parque La Carolina
Wednesday, December 5th09h00 thru 21h00America Dances for QuitoPlace: Plaza de la Independencia
Wednesday, December 5th – 14h005th National Music Contest“El Chulla Quiteño” FinalsPlace: Casa del ArtistaAdmission fee: $1
Wednesday, December 5th – 20h00National Symphony Orchestraof Ecuador Concert* Place: Casa de la MusicaAdmission fee: $10
Thursday, December 6th09h00 thru 21h00America Dances for QuitoPlace: Plaza de la Independencia
Thursday, December 6th – 19h00Julieta Venegas ConcertPlace: Parque La Carolina
Thursday, December 6thStarting at 19h00Lights and Colors ParadePlace: Av. Amazonas, between Patria and Orellana
Friday, December 7th – 19h00America Dances for QuitoPlace: Belmonte Bullring
CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - QUITO
QUITO FESTIVITIES
A festive mood invades the city ofQuito as it celebrates its SpanishFoundation, which took place onDecember 6th 1534. Typical cele-brations include: wooden cart races,40 card game competitions, parades,a traditional sweets fair, amongstothers… Flamenco shows areoffered in most hotels and restau-rants. Mobile parties called “chivas”can be seen throughout the city,which are open buses with livebands. The typical drink of these fes-tivities is “canelazo”, made of cinna-mon, “naranjilla” (an exotic fruit) andaguardiente (liquorish drink thatcomes from sugar cane).
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CULTURE + ENTERTAINMENT - QUITO
EXHIBITSOpen throughout the month ofDecember Thursdays thru Saturdays from09h00 to 17h00Video Exhibit: “Poets in Timesof Scarcity”* Place: Centro de Arte Contemporaneo Free admission
Open throughout the month ofDecemberTuesdays thru Saturdays from 09h00 to 17h30Sundays from 10h00 thru 13h00“From the Mirror to the Mask”Self Portrait, Portrait, representationand self-representation.* Place: Centro CulturalMetropolitano Free admission
Friday, December 14th thru Monday, December 31stGrand National andInternational EngravingAuctionEcuadorian and Latin Americangraphical recorders * Place: Aso. Humboldt Free admission
CHRISTMASSunday, December 16th – 17h00Third Christmas ChorusFestival* Place: Casa de la Música Admission fee: $5
SPECIAL EVENTSEvery Saturday starting at 18h30Patrimonial EveningsThe evening presents an array of cul-tural activities in Quito’s historiccentre. A theatrical tour takes off at ElQuinde Store. For more informationand reservations call: 257-2445.
Saturday, December 1st11h00 - 13h00Children’s Workshop* Place: Museo Casa del Alabado
Sunday, December 9th – 11h00Gymkhana at Museo de la CiudadA Gymkhana to discover secrets ofQuito’s history and the museum. Thewinning team receives a prize.* Place: Museo de la Ciudad
Friday, December 28th16h00 - 18h00Live an Artistic Evening at El Alabado* Place: Museo Casa del Alabado
* ADDRESSES:• Teatro Nacional CCE:
6 de Diciembre 794 & PatriaStreet.P: (+593 2) 290 2262
• Casa de la Música:Valderrama s/n & Av. Mariana deJesús (Hosp. Metropolitano)P: (+593 2) 226 1965
• Centro de Arte Contemporaneo:Montevideo & Luis Dávila (Former Military Hospital)
• Centro Cultural Metropolitano:García Moreno & Espejo, HistoricCenter
• Aso. Humboldt:Vancouver E5-54 & Polonia. P: (+593 2) 223 6910 / 254 8480
• Museo Casa del Alabado:Cuenca 335 & Bolívar
• Museo de la Ciudad:García Moreno & Rocafuerte.P: (+593 2) 228 3883 / 2;228 3879 Ext: 120
h t t p : / / a l a b a d o . o r g
Mesa de shaman, Jama - CoaqueCosta Norte // 500 a. C. - 1530 d. C.
E m a i l : i n f o @ a l a b a d o . o r g
Te l e f a x : ( 5 9 3 ) 2 2 8 0 9 4 0 / 2 2 8 0 7 7 2
A d d r e s s : C a l l e C u e n c a N 1 - 4 1 e n t r e B o l í v a r & R o c a f u e r t e
Q u i t o C e n t r o - E c u a d o r
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PREMIUM SERVICES - QUITO
Whymper 777 y 6 de Diciembre
(593 2) 323 8648 / (593 9) 9872 [email protected]
Visit theART WORKSHOP
of the author ofTHIS IS ECUADOR’s
covers and get a first hand view of
her work!
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• CITY TOUR PASS (Daily- Semi private ) $ 35.00(5 hours) Guapulo + Plaza Grande + San FranciscoPanecilo hill + Line Equator + Teleferico
• COTOPAXI or OTAVALO or MINDO or PAPALLACTA $ 65.00(8 Hours - Daily- Semi private)
• OVER NIGHT TOURS (2 Days-Daily ) $ 240.00RIOBAMBA with train and HighlandsBAÑOS with Cotopaxi and waterfallsOTAVALO with Ibarra and CotacachiMINDO with Cloud Forest and Cannopy
* Allways will pick you up in your hotel..!
PREMIUM SERVICES - QUITO
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Diego de Almagro 822 & Luis Cordero | Quito - Ecuador | Tel: (593-2) 2222 400E-mail: [email protected] | Webpage: www.hotelsebastian.com
In Quito, your home away from home...
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Stubel Suites & Cafe is strategically located in Quito, just a few minutes from the historical down town area, as from the shopping and bank areas. We offer a homely, modern and relaxing experience to the guests that visit us either for business or pleasure.
We offer an ambience of relaxation for all your most important senses from the vision, with the best view of the oriental valley, to your palate with our delicious menu of national and international cuisine in the Cafe Stubel.
We invite you to enjoy our facilities and the warm service of our staff.
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PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO
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A colonial treasure preserved for you...
Venezuela 1041 – Quito, Ecuador Tel: (593-2) 228 9120 / 228 5917
Fax: (593-2) 226 5764 E-mail: [email protected]
www.hotelrelicariodelcarmen.com
B.I.D. Diamond Award - London 2011
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PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITOPREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO
88 8387
PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITOPREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO
88 8387
PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITOPREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO
88 8387
PREMIUM HOTELS - QUITO
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IN DON PORFIRIO EVERY DETAILHAS A SCENT OF TRADITION
lunch & dinner* private parking
Orellana 1172 & Av. AmazonasReservations: 297 2000 Ext. 6178
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Monday-Friday: 12h00-16h00 19h00-22h00 – Live music starting at 19h30Weekends: 12h00-16h00
12 de octubre Ave. N24-551 Phone: 223-0839 / 250-7901 / 09-99820705email: [email protected] www.lachozaec.com
Ecuadorian Cuisine, 40 years of experience
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RESTAURANTS - QUITO
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Juan Rodríguez 282 y Reina Victoria, Sector la Mariscal
(Plaza Foch)Telfs.: (593) 2501 743 • 510 4066
cel.: 0993 388 489Quito - Ecuador
OPENMonday - Sunday:12h00 a 22h00
The best Ecuadorian experience!!!
The greatest national cuisine with live music...
OPENMonday - Sunday:12h00 a 22h00
The best Ecuadorian experience!!!
The greatest national cuisine with live music...
CC. Megamaxi Local 106-110Av. 6 de Diciembre y Calle Alemán
Cel: 09-98362-159 Fax: 2923-958Tels: 2241-210 / 213 / 214 / 319
Sector La FlorestaCalle Julio ZaldumbideN24-763Tels: 2220-318 / 2220-408
Traditional food
RESTAURANTS - QUITO
Portugal 440 & Francisco CasanovaReservations: 333 1943 / 333 1944
E-mail: [email protected]
The best steaks in town!
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FOOD & DRINKS - QUITO
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FOOD & DRINKS - QUITO
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photograph: PETE OXFORDcourtesy of HACIENDA YANAHURCOQUILINDAÑA VOLCANO - YANAHURCO
CENTRALANDES
Cozy hostels and beautiful tradition-al haciendas in the region offer com-fortable lodging and numerous activ-ities such as horseback riding, bik-ing, trekking, and visits to typicalcountry villages, nearby rose planta-tions and local markets.
The Saquisili weekly market (closeto Latacunga) is the one of the mostexhilarating in the region. EveryThursday hundreds of indigenouspeople fill the streets to sell theircolorful handicrafts as well as theirfresh crops and livestock.
Further south, taking a right from thecity of Latacunga, riding through anextraordinary view of dense patch-work fields, the imposing Quilotoacrater strikes the visitors’ eye with itsextraordinary turquoise water. Thehike from the border of the crater(11,840 ft) to the lake at the bottom
The Avenue of the Volcanoes South of Quito, the two parallelchains of the Andes that crossEcuador from north to south rise totheir most dramatic peaks. Duringhis visit to South America in 1802,the German explorer Alexander vonHumboldt (XIX C) called this sectionof the Ecuadorian Sierra “TheAvenue of the Volcanoes”. Eight ofEcuador’s ten highest summits arefound in this part of the country.
COTOPAXI PROVINCEOn a clear day, from Quito you can seethe perfectly symmetrical coneshaped Cotopaxi (19,347 ft), the high-est active volcano in the world. Thissnow-capped volcano and its sur-
roundings make up the CotopaxiNational Park. This park offers numer-ous activities for adventurers andnature lovers, all immersed in animposing geological landscape.
Although Cotopaxi has had at leastten major eruptions since 1742, it’sbeen fairly quit since its last burst ofactivity in 1904.
Today, it is Ecuador’s favorite climb.Some of the highlights in thisNational Park are: the Rumiñahuivolcano (15,600 ft.), and theLimpiopungo and Santo Domingolagoons. In both lagoons it is possi-ble to see the reflection of the sur-rounding volcanoes.
The Cotopaxi National Park is hometo white-tailed deer, rabbits, lamas,Andean foxes and pumas, and overninety species of birds.
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population. The Religious ArtMuseum “Madres Conceptas” andthe Science Museum of theMaldonado School are definitelyworth visiting.
The history of Riobamba is markedby the fact that it is the link betweenthe Coast and the Highlands.
Riobamba's importance in the lastfew centuries was highly due to thepresence of the train station, themain means of communication inEcuador at the time.
Today, the train is no longer animportant means of transportation,but is a unique tourist attraction.From the Riobamba station, thetrain departs to the most impres-sive track of the railway through the“Avenue of the Volcanoes”, whichends up at the “Nariz del Diablo”(Devil’s Nose).
(7,446 ft) is approximately 30 min-utes; we recommend that you hire amule on the way back. The nearbyZumbahua town has a very interestingSaturday morning market. Close tothe town of Pujilí is the village ofTigua, where many artisans aredevoted to the naive art painted onsheep hides, depicting daily lifescenes, legends and village fiestasagainst a bright background of col-ored mountains and fields. Thesenaive paintings can be found forsale mostly all around the country,and are locally known as Tiguapaintings.
TUNGURAHUAPROVINCEThe town of Baños is probably themost charming tourist destinationin this province. It is located at thefoot of the Tungurahua active vol-cano (16,500 ft). The town ofBaños is a favorite spot for nationaland international tourists. Its pleas-ant sub tropical climate and itsextraordinary landscape and vege-tation are very welcoming. Baños isconsidered the gate to theEcuadorian Amazonia, as it is nes-tled between the volcano and therain forest. The city has plenty oftourist information, and severalagencies offer adventure sports.For years, Baños has been theplace where Ecuadorians make pil-grimages to honor “Our Lady of theHoly Water”. The walls of theBasilica are covered with paintingsdepicting miracles that are creditedto this Virgin.
The town has several hostels foryoung adventure tourists, but thebest accommodations are offered bySamari SPA Resort and Luna RuntunAdventure SPA.
CHIMBORAZO PROVINCEChimborazo is the highestEcuadorian peak (20.702 feet), andthe third highest in America.
Moreover, the summit ofChimborazo is the furthest pointfrom the center of the Earth, as it iscrossed by the Equatorial line,where the Earth is wider.Chimborazo is the “Colossus” ofthe mountains of the region, but ona clear day, other impressive snow-capped mountains can be admired:the Altar, the Carihuairazo, and theSangay volcanoes.
Chimborazo province has the largestconcentration of indigenous peoplein Ecuador. These communitiesworshiped the Chimborazo as a god.Many of them still preserve their wayof life, dress, food, and traditions.
Riobamba is the capital city of theprovince. From here, it is possible toarrange trips to the surroundingmountains. In the city, one encoun-ters indigenous people sharing withmestizos and a minority of white
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LEGENDS TOURIST SITES . LODGING
Luna Rutun Adventure Spa
Tungurahua Volcano
Samari Spa Resort
Chimborazo Volcano
Hostería Andaluza
Sangay National Park
Sangay Volcano
Alausí Train Station
Hostería La Quinta
Devil’s Nose
Los Illinizas
Cuello de Luna Hotel
Cotopaxi National Park
Cotopaxi Volcano
Hacienda San Agustín de Callo
Saquisilí Indigenous Market
Quilotoa lake
Pujilí Indigenous Market
Centro Artesanal Rumipamba
de las Rosas
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• hotel reservations• domestic e-tickets• premium services• articles• maps
Ecuadora click away
www.thisisecuador.comEloy Alfaro 121 y Paraguay • Tel: (593 3) 293 0247
E-mail: [email protected] • Alausí - Ecuadorwww.hosteria-la-quinta.com
Feel at homein one of themost charmingtowns of Ecuador.
2905-939
PREMIUM SERVICES - CENTRAL ANDES
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SOUTHERNANDES
the city in 1548 at the “Cuxibamba”valley. “Cuxibamba” is the indige-nous name of the valley.
Loja’s indigenous population main-tains ancestral traditions and cus-toms. The city of Loja has an impor-tant cultural community.
Musicians, poets and other writersare nestled within the city. Loja had alarge affluence of scientists duringthe XVII – XIX century, and so itappears in old European maps as“Nambixa”.
Surrounded by rivers that flow to theAmazonia or the Pacific Ocean, onefinds several green valleys withwarm, fresh and dry weather (64degrees Fahrenheit and higher),such as the Vilcabamba, Malacatos,Quinara and Catacocha Valleys.
The southern sierra is made up ofCañar, Loja and Azuay Provinces.
Some of the reasons for visitingthese three provinces are the Incanruins of Ingapirca, the valley ofVilcabamba and the historic districtof Cuenca.
The Southern Sierra of Ecuador is afavorite spot for birdwatchers, espe-cially the Cajas and PodocarpusNational Parks.
CAÑAR PROVINCE Cañar is rich in history. This regionwas inhabited by the Cañari culturefrom which it took its name. Cañarboasts the most important prehis-panic monument of the country, theIngapirca Inca Vestiges. Locatedabout an hour and 45 minutes fromCuenca, these ruins are the most
important architectural legacy of theIncas in Ecuador. Ingapirca means“Incas stone wall”. The vast archeo-logical complex includes a rooflessfortification, courtyards, terraces,temples, houses and a “castle,”possibly the “Temple to the Sun.”The entrance fee is 5 dollars. Amuseum is now open at the site, withboth archeological and ethnographicdisplays as well as a scale model ofthe ruins. Entrance fee is US$6. Anexcellent option is to stay overnightat the charming Posada Ingapirca(see page 63).
Phone: (07) 2827-401/ (07) 2831-120.
LOJA PROVINCEBoth the province and its capital cityowe their name to the SpaniardAlonso de Mercadillo, who founded
PHOTOGRAPH: FRANCISCO CAIZAPANTA - FPTECOURTESY OF MINISTRY OF TOURISMALAUSI
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Thermal SpringsCapital of ProvinceCities / townsPan- American HighwaySecondary road
Sangay National ParkIngapirca RuinsPosada IngapircaEl Cajas National ParkHostería UzhupudEl Cisne SanctuaryPodocarpus National Park
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CUENCA
perched along the banks of the fourdifferent rivers that run through andaround the city (Tarqui, Yanucay,Tomebamba and Machángara).
One of the highlights are the beau-tiful handicrafts that can be foundthroughout the city, includingembroidered blouses, woolsweaters, gold and silver filigreejewelry and weavings with tie-dyedpatterns called ikat. Cuenca is alsoknown for its elegant ceramic dish-es and pottery. Crafts and freshproducts can be found on sale atthe weekly Thursday fair, or thesmaller Saturday market, located atthe plazas of 9 de Octubre and 10de Agosto.
A leading industry in Cuenca and itssurrounding areas is the manufactureof straw hats. A common miscon-ception among many people is thePanama hat. Originally made in
A CulturalTreasure inthe Andes
Ecuadorians consider Cuenca themost charming city, located in apeaceful and relaxing setting. Asyou enter the city you can enjoy theoutstanding skyline marked by shin-ing church domes. Cuenca’s cob-blestone streets, winding rivers,graceful ironwork balconies, andbeautiful gardens are part of thepleasant atmosphere of this histori-cal city. UNESCO declared Cuenca aWorld Cultural Heritage Site inDecember 1999.
The city was first called“Guapondelig”, which in the Cañarilanguage means “a plain as big as
the sky”. The Cañaris were theindigenous group that lived in theregion before the arrival of the Incas.In the last decades of the XV centu-ry, the Incas built the city of“Tumipamba” (“Tumi” meaningridge and “pamba” meaning plain),over this Cañari settlement. Thiscity was located along the Incahighway that joined Cusco withQuito. When the Spanish arrived,they called the city “Tomebamba”.Finally, it was baptized as the city of“Santa Ana de los Cuatro Ríos deCuenca” (Santa Ana of the FourRivers of Cuenca). Cuenca stands8,315 feet above sea level, it is thecapital of the Azuay province andthe third largest city in Ecuador.
The colonial past from the days ofthe Spanish Empire are ever presentin the artistry of the churches, con-vents and religious treasures. Manyof the beautiful houses are found
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Hermano Miguel streets. Visitinghours: Monday - Friday: 9h00-13h00 and 14h30 – 18h00.Saturday 10h00-12h00.
LAS CONCEPTAS MUSEUMHere you will find a great collectionof religious art. It exhibits 64 paint-ings, and more than 200 sculptures,toys, furniture and other samples ofcraftsmanship.Address: 633 Hermano Miguel St. Visiting hours: Monday to Friday:9h00 -13h00 and 14h30- 18h30Saturday 10h00-13h00. Admissionfee: US$ 2.
MODERN ART MUSEUMHolding a permanent collection ofcontemporary art, there are alsomany artistic activities available forchildren. The museum additionallyhosts the Biannual InternationalPainting Competition.It is located on 1527 Calle Sucre andCoronel Talbot. Visiting hours:Mondays thru Fridays, 9h00 - 13h00and 15h00 – 19h30. Saturdays andSundays 9h00 - 13h00. Free admission.Phone: 283 1027 / 282 0838.
ESQUELETOLOGÍA MUSEUMBolívar 6-57 & Borrero streets.Visiting hours: Monday-Friday:10h00 -13h00 / 16h00-19h00.Saturday 10h00 - 14h30. Entrancefee is $1,50. Phone: 2821150.
NATIVE CULTURES MUSEUMThis museum was built as a homageto the Ecuadorian indigenous cul-tures and their 15,000 years of exis-tence. It holds archaeological piecesfrom the first indigenous civilizationsin Ecuador up to those that lived inthe XVI century, in more than 5,000impressive pieces. The museum works in a one-floorantique house that is a cultural-architectonic heritage of the city,built in the XVIII century. In the backof the house one finds this museum,with a private collection that belongsto Dr. Juan Cordero. There are guidesin English, as well as the explanationof the pieces.
Montecristi, on the coast of Ecuador,the hats were sent north to the work-ers of the Panama Canal and hencethe name Panama hat.
INTERESTING SITESEL BARRANCOThe riverfront of the Tomebamba Riveris the most symbolic site of Cuenca,and serves as the border between thehistorical and the modern city.
The Classical Republican style of thefacades of the constructions thatsurround the river give a special per-sonality to the city. El Barranco is aresidential area, as well as a culturaldistrict. The Pumapungo Ruins, theCentral Bank and Remigio CrespoToral Museums, the “Todos losSantos” vestiges, and other sitesalong this riverfront offer cultural andartistic exhibits.
PUMAPUNGO VESTIGESLocated at the left margin of ElBarranco, the Pumapungo (“Puma’sDoor”) neighborhood was the firstdeveloped zone of the Inca city ofTumipamba. The architectural ele-ments of the vestiges of this neigh-borhood show that it was mainly areligious, military, political andadministrative center. The vestigesof Pumapungo include walls, chan-nels, cobblestone corridors, isolated
enclosed areas, an enormous chan-nel, 1,050 feet of length, with someinternal bathrooms, a mausoleumwithin a tunnel, etc. All this is sur-rounded by terraces that were usedfor agriculture. This archaeologicalcomplex is complemented with gar-dens of native plants and a smalldisplay of birds of the region. It ispart of the Central Bank Museum,located on Huayna Capac Ave.across from Calle Larga.
It also includes an archeological muse-um, a numismatic museum (coins),and a very didactical and up-to-dateethnographic display. Visiting hoursMonday thru Friday 9h00 -17h00.Saturdays 9h00 -13h00. Entrance feeis $3 for adults and $1.50 for children /students / special groups.
THE RUINS OFTODOS LOS SANTOSFollow the Todos Los Santos Streetdown the hill. This site has ruins ofCañari, Incan and colonial Spanishconstructions. Here you will find thefour Incas stonework niches.
CIDAP ARTES POPULARESDE AMERICA MUSEUMThis museum is devoted to thehandicrafts of South America. It con-tains art, crafts and beautiful folklorepieces on temporary exhibitions.Address: 3 de Noviembre and
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZ
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that belong to the original construc-tion. Priests’ garmets are on exhibit.What calls more the attention arelife-size sculptures of Jesus and his12 apostles, which were manufac-tured in the year 1900 by theCuencan artist Pablo Luis Alvarado.The pieces are light weight becausethey were used for processions.
The pulpit’s handrail is worth admir-ing because it has the shape ofhuman ribs to symbolize Jesus’ pas-sion. It was done by the Cuencansculpturer Sangurima (XIX C).
What also calls one’s attention is the“Piedad”, a copy of the original byMiguel Angel in Rome, done by theCuencan sculpturer José MiguelVélez in the XIX C.
The organ from the back was brought from Germany in 1739.
Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00to 13h00 and from 13h30 to 17h50.Weekends from 10h00 to 13h00.Admission fee: $2Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre &Luis Cordero. Phone: 2834636.
CATHEDRAL OF THEIMMACULATE CONCEPTION(NEW CATHEDRAL)This Cathedral’s construction beganin 1880, and is one of the largest ofAmerica. The Cathedral is made of
Address: Calle Larga 5-24 (7121 &Luis Cordero) / Phone: 283 9181/2841540. Open Monday- Friday8h30-18h00, weekends from 9h00-15h00. Admission fee: $2.
EDUARDO VEGA’S WORKSHOP AND GALLERYOn the hill of Turi, overlooking thecity, 10 minutes by car from down-town Cuenca, is a beautiful placewhere the reknowned Ecuadorianartist Eduardo Vega has his house,workshop and gallery. Visitors canadmire his latest creations in artisticceramics, ranging from mugs,plaques, jewelry, and plates as wellas wonderful murals that show thelushness of the Ecuadorian land-scape & traditional costumes. Youcan also find good books and com-plimentary coffee and biscuits.Open: Mon-Fri 9h00 -17h30, Sat9h30- 13h30.
LA ESQUINA DE LAS ARTES
Is a commercial and cultural centerfor the promotion of the arts.Distinguished designers, artists andartisans have gathered to reveal thedifferent processes involved in thecreation of their products, whichinclude ceramics, wood crafts, tex-tiles, glass, embroidery, jewelrystraw hats and fashion accessories.
Open Monday thru Saturday from10h00 thru 19h30, Sunday from10h00 to 14h00. Address: ElBarranco / Av. 12 de Abril y AgustinCueva. Phone: 0999978966. OnSaturdays from 17h00 to 18h00enjoy live music and folkloric dance.www.laesquinadelasartes.com
THE SAGRARIO CHURCH (OLD CATHEDRAL)It is one of the oldest churches inLatin America (1557). Inca blocksfrom the Pomango Palace were usedin its construction. It has marblefloors and a gold-leaf altar. TheGeodesic Mission used this place asa reference point to calculate theEarth’s circumference.
It does not serve as a Cathedral since1981, and now houses a religiousmuseum. You can ask for a guide atthe entrance for an explanation of thedetails. You can observe part of theoriginal frescos, as well as somemetal friezes brought from France
PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZPHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF VICTOR LARCO ALDAZ
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alabaster and marble. Its floor ismade of pink marble imported fromCarrara, Italy. Both Romance andBaroque styles are prominent in itsarchitecture. The stained-glass win-dows stand out for their beauty. Address: corner of Mariscal Sucre &Benigno Malo.
CHURCH AND MONASTERY OF“EL CARMEN DE ASUNCIÓN”Both have been preserved in theiroriginal XVII century condition. Aremarkable treasury of religious artpieces can be found here. TheMonastery is closed to the public,but one can communicate with thenuns at the entrance and buy tradi-tional handicrafts they produce. It islocated near the main square, to theright of the daily flower market.
FLOWER MARKETIt is open every day. Most of thevendors are cholas cuencanas. Themarket is a demonstration of thenatural richness of the areathroughout the year.
TODOS LOS SANTOS CHURCHThis is one of the oldest churches inCuenca. It is also where the firstCatholic mass was celebrated afterthe Spaniards arrived. The statue ofSanta Ana, patron saint of the city, isfound here.
During the end of the XIX century, itwas replaced with the church thatcurrently stands. Address: corner ofCalle Larga and Bajada de Todos LosSantos.
MUSEUM OF THE CONCEPTASThe museum is located in amonastery that dates back to the XVIcentury. It was one of the fist monas-teries that were founded in the city ofCuenca, 42 years after the founda-tion of the city. Its interior gardensare beautiful and peaceful. Currently,the museum holds several exhibitrooms where one finds Nativityscenes, religious pieces and colo-nial time furniture. Many of thepaintings had didactical purposes
for the “unfaithful of the New World”.The Christ sculptures belong to thesculpturer Sangurima, who lived inCuenca at the end of the XIX centu-ry. They have the left over the rightfoot, characteristic of this author’sChrist figures. Also in exhibit is aroom that tells of life in a monastery,close to where a cloister still works.
Address: Hermano Miguel 633 &Juan Jaramillo.Museum open Monday thru Fridayfrom 9h00 - 18h30 and Saturdaysfrom 10h00 - 13h00. Admission fee:$2.50 adults, $1.50 children.Phone: 2830625.
HANDICRAFTS ROUTEPOTTERYA place where potters still congre-gate to work is the “Convención del45”, located at the west side of thecity, on the outskirts of the colonialcask area.
JEWELRYA very important handicraft in thisarea because Cuenca is locatedclose to gold and silver mines.Jewelry shops are located along the“Gran Colombia” street.
WEAVINGSSeveral artisans in Cuenca are dedi-cated to manufacturing traditionalclothing such as ponchos, skirts,flannels, dresses, embroideredblouses, wool sweaters and weavingswith tie-dyed patterns called “ikat”.
BASKET SEWINGBaskets and other utilitarian prod-ucts are displayed mainly in the SanJoaquin Parish.
SMITHYThe workers keep the tradition ofworking the iron directly with firealive. The smithy neighborhood is arecommended place to visit.
TINSMITH’SOn the way up to the “Vado” areasome tinsmith’s workshops can befound. The products have designsthat tell of the blend of cultures thatcharacterizes Cuenca.
TOQUILLA STRAW HATSMost of the “cholas cuencanas” thatlive in Cuenca and its surroundingsstill wear these hats with a black hat-band. Toquilla straw hat workshopscan be found on the way up to the“Vado” area.
COJITAMBOCOJITAMBO
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CUENCA’SSURROUNDINGSBeyond Cuenca and its cultural andarchitectonic charms, there are manyplaces to visit nearby. Wonderfulnature as well as small towns andparishes that seem stuck in time,reminding us of their early inhabi-tants: the Cañaris and later the Incas.
CAJAS NATIONAL PARKCajas is located 19 miles northwestof Cuenca, at an altitude of 9,000 to13,000 feet above the sea level. Thisis a place for those who love thegreat outdoors. Some of the manythings to do and see are camping,fishing, hiking miles of trails througha scenic preserve, and enjoyingmore than 230 lagoons of glacialorigin. A guided tour of the areaallows one to admire a breathtakinglandscape and unique fauna andflora. Warm clothing is recommend-ed due to the low temperatures(32°F - 47°F).
COJITAMBOApproximately 30 miles from the cityof Cuenca, surrounded by anextraordinary landscape, are theruins of Cojitambo. These construc-tions belonged to the Cañari indige-nous group, who lived in the areabefore the arrival of the Incas. Theruins lay at approximately 10,000feet above sea level.
BAÑOSOnly 5 miles East of Cuenca, youcan find soothing hot spring waters.These thermal waters of volcanicorigin reach the surface with a tem-perature of 158°F and cool down to95°F -104°F.
GUALACEOThis is a subtropical valley, approxi-mately 22 miles away from Cuencatowards the Azogues town. At “ElDescanso” take a right to reachGualaceo. This town is known for itshandicrafts, folklore and a beautifulriver where you can go for a swim.
CHORDELEGLocated 10 minutes from Gualaceo,it is a pre-Incan town where impor-tant archaeological objects can befound. This brilliant culture inhabitedthe area between the years 500 and1500 BC. The artisans offer Ikat pon-chos, pottery, straw hats and jewelry.
This is the place to buy the finestgold and silver filigree at a very rea-sonable price. There is also anexcellent ethnographic museum inthe square in an old courtyard house,where you can see weavers at workand find good shawls, scarves, beltsand embroidery for sale.
NABÓNThis little town is located an hourand a half south of Cuenca in acharming valley. Colorful fields wel-come visitors to a place where peo-ple are always polite and joyful. TheDuma-Para Cañari Ruins are locatedcloseby. This was the place wherethe Cañari Chief Duma was defeatedby the Incas, who then susequentlyruled the land.
At Nabón one also finds the tradition-al Ecuadorian Tequila or Chahuar - mishqui, a very tasty alcoholic drinkthat is produced in an artisan way bylocals. Another attraction at this siteare fine handicrafts made of reed.
OÑAOña is located 103 km south west ofCuenca, 7,870 ft above sea level. Mayis a special month at this site as theSan Felipe Festival takes place on the3rd and the celebration of the town’sestablishment takes place on the 10th.
One of Oña's highlights is the parishof Susudel where people are mostlydedicated to agriculture and handi-crafts. There is a gallery where skill-ful ladies exhibit clothes and otherhandicrafts made of recycled mate -rials and natural textiles.
Susudel has a XVIII Century church,as well as a colonial house thatserves as a Cultural Center wherechildren learn information scienceand have access to the Internet. It’scalled the “House of Paris,” after itslast owner who was French.
NABÓN
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VESTIGES 29. The Ruins of Todos los Santos 30. Pumapungo Vestiges
MUSEUMS1. Modern Art2. Casa de la Cultura3. CIDAP Artes Populares4. Remigio Crespo Toral5. Medicine History6. Toquilla Straw Museum-Homero Ortega7. Esqueletologia8. Las Conceptas9. Central Bank10. Native Cultures11. Agustin Landivar Museum12. Folklore Institute13. Cañari Identity Museum
CHURCHES14. New Cathedral15. Old Cathedral16. San Alfonso17. La Merced18. Las Conceptas19. Todos los Santos20. El Vergel21. San Blas22. Santo Domingo23. San Francisco24. Santo Cenáculo25. San Sebastián26. Corazón de Jesús27. María Auxiliadora28. Turi
HANDICRAFTS31. Casa de la Mujer32. Plaza Rotary33. Mama Kinua Cultural Center34. San Francisco35. Plaza del Otorongo36. Ceramics37. Concuero (Leather Goods)38. Homero Ortega (Toquilla Straw Hats)39. Typical Clothing40. Smithery60. Esquina de las Artes Shopping
PARKS 41. Abdón Calderón 42. Plazoleta Victor J. Cuesta 43. Carlos Cueva Park 44. Luis Cordero Park 45. Mary Corile Park 46. San Blas Park 47. Plazoleta de las Monjas 48. María Auxiliadora Park 49. San Sebastián Park 50. Plazoleta de Cruz del Vado 51. El Paraíso Park 52. Parque de la Madre
OTHERS53. Post Office54. Land Terminal55. Airport56. Milenium Plaza Shopping Center57. Mall del Rio58. 9 de Octubre Movie Theater59. Parroquia Baños60. Esquina de las Artes Shopping
61. And E. Vega Gallery62. Cuenca Municipality63. Azuay Province Government64. Tourism Ministry65. Planetarium66. Amaru Zoo
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HOTELS67. Oro Verde68. Crespo69. San Juan70. Victoria
FOOD & DRINKS75. Akelarre76. El Pedregal Azteca Restaurant77. Villa Rosa Restaurant78. El Tucuman79. El Jardín Restaurant80. Restaurante Cuatro Ríos
TOURISM INFORMATION81. The Travel Center
71. Carvallo72. Posada del Angel73. Inca Real74. Hosteria Durán
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Phone: (593 -7) 409 0000Fax: (593-7) 409 0001
www.oroverdehotels.com / www.oroverdecuenca.com
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PREMIUM HOTELS - CUENCA
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Direcciòn:
Estèvez de Toral 8-91
y Simon Bolivar
Telèfono:
2826233
E-mail:
iòDi
Padre Aguirre 10-44 next to the Cuenca ParkPhone: 07 2850521 // Cel: 0999496281
Calle Larga 693 y Borrero Phone: 2831120/2827401 Fax: 2832340 e-mail: [email protected] / www.grupo-santaana.com Cuenca Ecuador
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RESTAURANTS & PREMIUM SERVICES - CUENCA
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LAGUNAS DEL COMPADRE
LOJA
large portion of the year, but also hasa gothic church dedicated to her, 43miles from the city.
ATTRACTIONS IN LOJAMAIN SQUAREThe buildings of the main civil andecclesiastic authorities: theProvincial and City Governments,the Episcopal House and theCathedral surround the plaza.Although the original architectureof most of these buildings has beenmodified, they still portray a tasteof the Spanish legacy. The buildingthat houses the Central BankMuseum still preserves its originalarchitecture.
CENTRAL BANK MUSEUMThis museum is most interesting. Itholds an archeological display
History and Botanic CenterThere are two daily flights from Quitoto Loja, overlooking the avenue ofthe volcanoes. One can also take abus from the city of Cuenca for a 4-hour drive with a breathtaking view,but through a winding road. The air-port is located at “La Toma” in theCatamayo valley, 15.5 miles awayfrom the city; an approximately 40minute drive. You can share a taxi tothe city that will charge $12. Thebuses arrive in the center of the city.
The city of Loja stands 6,724 feetabove sea level, with an averagetemperature of 60 to 69 Fahrenheit.
Colorful and lively, with a smallpopulation of approximately150,000 the city has an active cul-tural life and several universities.
Two rivers cross through Loja:Malacatos and Zamora, which give aunique personality to the city. It is oneof the cleanest and safest cities inEcuador. The city has streets, plazas,churches and monasteries from colo-nial times, such as the Cathedral andthe Santo Domingo, San Franciscoand San Sebastian churches.
Most Lojanos are extremely religious.It is common to find religious pro-cessions at the Main Plaza, or some-times even popular bands and fire-works. Lojanos are especially devot-ed to the “Virgen del Cisne” (Virginof the Swan), a sculpture by theEcuadorian Diego de Robles (XVI C),which is kept at the Cathedral for a
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(mainly of the Macara and Catamayocultures), religious art of the XVIIIcentury, an ethnographic exhibit onthe Saraguros, and a small displayon the history and uses of the “quin-ina” plant. The museum also housestemporary exhibits on the first floor,and there is a concert every month.Open Monday thru Friday from 9h00thru 17h00. Free admission. Phone: 2573 004 / 2566 651.
LOURDES STREETA stroll through this street sets you inan old colonial city, especiallybetween Bolivar and Sucre streets.Observe the well preserved woodenbalconies, interior patios, cobble-stone streets… and stop by at thesmall shops where you can find a lit-tle of everything, including handi-crafts. Visit the “Cera” neighborhoodto observe the production of ceramichandicrafts.
MUSEO DE LA MÚSICALocated at Bernardo Valdivieso 09-42 & Rocafuerte. This museum dis-plays musical instruments, notes,pictures and awards of nationallyfamous musicians from Loja. Open
Monday thru Sunday from 8h30 to12h30 and from 15h00 to 19h00.Free admission. Phone: 2561342.
BOTANICAL GARDENAt the South of the city you can finda Botanical Garden that is the onlybotanical garden at 6,560 feet abovesea level in the inter-Andean region.It is over 50 years old and holdsmore than 1.000 plant species. Open Monday thru Friday 8h00-18h00 and Saturdays 9h00 - 18h00.
MALACATOS VALLEYRight to the south of the city, thecharming Malacatos town holds col-orful wooden houses that surround amain square where live music isplayed every Sunday. At this site youcan visit a sugar cane “molienda”.The “moliendas” are open Mondaythru Friday and you can observe theworkers throughout the whole processof manufacturing of raspadura (sugarscraping), using the same machinerythat has been used for generations.
On the way to Vilcabamba, observea hill in the shape of a “sleepingInca”. This hill is called Mandango,
and is believed to have been sacredfor the Incas.
VILCABAMBA VALLEYThis charming valley (at 4,921 ft.)located approximately 1 hour Southfrom Loja city (25 miles) hasbecome a favorite spot for tourists,especially young adventurers ontheir way to or from Peru. The nameVilka Bamba or Huilcopamba means“Sacred Valley” in the indigenoustongue Quechua. This site wasreserved by the Incas for the mainnoble authorities, as it is a peacefuland quiet place. Perhaps this tran-quility is the reason for the old age ofthe valley’s inhabitants. It is com-mon to find healthy people of over100 years of age that live here andstill work in agriculture.
Many investigations have been madeto determine the reason for thelongevity of Vilcabamba’s inhabitants,and some factors have been identified:temperate weather, a water rich inminerals, a diet low in fat and high infiber and magnesium, the peaceful-ness of the valley and extensivephysical activity.
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1 Puerta de la Ciudad.
2 Parque Simón Bolívar - The Simón Bolivar Park.
3 Iglesia de San Francisco - San Francisco's Church.
4 Museo Matilde Hidalgo de Procel - Matilde Hidalgo de Procel museum.
5 Plaza Central o Plaza Mayor de Loja - The Central Square or The largest square of Loja.
6 Iglesia Catedral - Cathedral Church.
Artesanías Handicraft Monumento Monument
Iglesia Church Museo Museum
Información Information Teléfono Telephone
Información turística Tourist information
HISTORICAL AND CULTURALROUTE OF LOJA CITY
People that suffer from heart diseasemove to Vilcabamba to imitate thelifestyle of its inhabitants.
From Vilcabamba you can arrangehorse and bicycle excursionsthroughout the valley or in the near-by access to the PodocarpusNational Park. The Municipality hasopened an information office at thecorner of the main park.
PODOCARPUSNATIONAL PARKThis National Park is located 11miles South of Loja city. The parkwas named after a tree species com-monly known as “Romerillo”(Podocarpus montanus). This is a
gigantic Coniferous that has adaptedto the tropical Andean forests. Thesetrees can reach a height of 131 ft.and live up to 1.000 years. ThePodocarpus or Romerillos is in dan-ger of extinction because of the overexploitation of its valuable wood.Now the trees can be found at theSabanilla region near Loja and at thePodocarpus National Park.
Podocarpus NP holds 3,000 – 4,000plant species and more than 600 birdspecies (including Macaws, Cock ofthe Rock, hummingbirds, toucans,tangaras, etc). It holds endemic birdspecies such as the Jocotoco Antpitta(Grallaria ridgelyi).The park has anarea of 361,452 acres, and has sever-
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7 Museo Arqueológico, Histórico y Colonial del Banco Central - The Archaeological, Historical and Colonial Museum of the Central Bank.
8 Museo de Arte Religioso de las Madres Concepcionistas - The Religious art museum of the “Madres Conceptas”.
9 Museo de la Música - Museum of Music.
10 Plaza e Iglesia de Santo Domingo - Santo Domingo Church and Square
11 Plaza de la Independencia o San Sebastián - The Independence Square or San Sebastián Square
12 Iglesia de San Sebastián - San Sebastian Church.
13 Calle Lourdes - Lourdes Street.
al different ecosystems that rangefrom the Paramo or moorlands at12,073 ft, down to the low mountainforest at 2,952 ft, passing through theevergreen high-mountain and moun-tain forests. Among the plant speciesare: bromeliads, orchids and ferns, aswell as the Mascarilla Chincho-na, theCecropias or Guarumos (Cecropiasp.), and bamboo (Chusquea sp.)
From “El Refugio” it is possible tofollow any of the four followingtrekking routes: “Spectacled Bear”437 yards, “Cloud Forest” 765yards, “View Point” 1 mile or 3miles, up to Sabanilla at 11,482 ft.,and “Compadres Lagoon” 9 mileswhere you can find a fluvial system
made up of 105 lagoons, 3 of whichare easily accessible.
From the Podocarpus NP headingtowards the Zamora province, youwill encounter impressive hill forma-tions, created through a process ofwind and water erosion.
Open every day. The entrance fee tothe park is $10 and $5 for childrenunder 12. It is better to hire a guidein Loja, since there is no informationoffered at the park’s entrances.Phone: 3024837.
TAPICHALACA RESERVEA special site for birdwatchers hasbeen built in the Tapichalaca
Reserve that belongs to theJocotoco Foundation. Tapichalacahas an area of 9,386 acres. It bor-ders the Podocarpus National Parkand is located right nexto to theLoja-Zamora Province border. It isnamed after the Tapichalaca hill.Jocotoco is the common name of abird species (Grallaria ridgelyi)that was recently discovered(1997) at this site. This birdspends more time “walking” on thebushes than flying, and makes asound similar to a dog bark. Thereare bird feeders surrounding thehouse at the entrance to thereserve, where an amazing diversi-ty of hummingbirds of all colorsand sizes welcome visitors.
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The CloudForest:The FascinatingNorthwest of Pichincha
The Equator – the name brings tomind rain forests, lush drippingforests full of wildlife, mystery andwonder! For some this may mean thewonders of the Amazon – but lushrain forests are also much moreaccessible – “cloud forests” (mon-tane rain forests) are only one and ahalf hours from Quito. This fascinat-ing ecosystem, literally cloaking thesteep slopes of both sides of theAndes from about 1000 – 2500meters, is amongst the most diverseecosystems in the world. This is atrue jungle with tall trees decoratedwith a carpet of delicate orchids,mosses, bromeliads, and other epi-phytes. While in some ways similarto the Amazon forests, the steepnessof the slopes means that the canopy
is very uneven, and hence more lightpenetrates to the forest floor, givingrise to a dense covering of vegeta-tion there also. The steep slopesalso give birth to myriad waterfalls,many of which have never beennamed – just an example of nature’sundiscovered treasures that awaityou here!
The region of Nono-Tandayapa-Bellavista-Mindo has been declaredthe first Area of InternationalImportance for Birds in SouthAmerica, and the area has achievedthe highest single day bird countduring the worldwide AudubonChristmas Count. So for a birder, thisregion has to be a prime destination.And every 200 meters or so drop inaltitude means a change in thespecies of birds that live there.Consider that Ecuador, which onlycovers 0.02% of the earth’s land sur-face, holds about 10% of all birdspecies found on the planet – and itis not an exaggeration to state that aninordinately high number ofEcuador’s 1600 species of birds arefound in the cloud forests! Just tomention a few, some of which areendemic (unique) to this region:
Tanager-Finch, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan, Tanagers of all colors,Manakins, Cotingas, etc. And forhummingbirds, the number of differ-ent species in the Tandayapa andMindo Valleys is perhaps a worldrecord, with various places offeringan unforgettable spectacle at veryaccessible feeders.
Clearly the high diversity of birds isalso reflected in the high diversity oforchids, butterflies, frogs, etc, etc.For the scientist, it is a certainty thatnew species are there to be discov-ered. And for the naturalist, everyhike reveals new surprises. Take atrail with a guide or alone, walk aself-guided educational trail, per-haps find a spot to just relax andabsorb the peace, the variety of birdcalls, the remoteness of nature faraway from your daily life. This regionalso is the home of the AndeanSpectacled Bear, and althoughrarely seen, this is perhaps one ofthe most intriguing species of mam-mals in this area.
Apart from the trails in the forests,there are places that offer displays of
A BIRDER’SPARADISE
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butterflies and orchids, with easyaccess and knowledgeable inter-preters ready to explain the respec-tive ecology.
The northwest and its cloud forestsare also a perfect area for adventuresports. Horseback riding, mountainbiking, tubing or, during the rainyseason, rafting in the rushing rivers,are just some if the varied optionsthis region has to offer. Imagine aday speeding on your bike down anarrow mountain road with a bub-bling stream following you as youride, then a day hiking in the forest,then a day riding on a well-trainedhorse, feeling like a pioneer on thelittle-trodden trails that wind throughthe hills. And if you are a lover ofnatural swimming holes, there arevarious places near Los Bancos,Pedro Vicente Maldonado andPuerto Quito that offer sparklingwaters amongst dense foliage, deeppools with waterfalls cascadingfrom above, complemented bycomfortable cabins nearby to letyou unwind completely. At lowerelevations, there are interestingopportunities to visit small scalefarming enterprises, with a fascinat-ing variety of tropical fruits and thebest cacao in the world.
The forests also hide various little-studied archaeological remains – themost accessible of which is theTulipe Archeaological Site. Museum.A series of what were most likelyceremonial pools have been uncov-ered, and various “tolas” (mounds)are awaiting further investigation.What is doubly special is that thissite of the ancient Yumbo culture isstill little known, and it is an addedfascination for the visitor to realizethat he or she is experiencingarchaeological discovery first hand.For more information see page 76.
Consider Ecuador’s northwest – theregion of the two hemispheres (northand south) crossed by the Equator -as a fascinating new frontier, withexuberant nature, fascinating peopleand culture, and comfortable, origi-nal lodging just waiting to be discov-ered by you!
Text and photos courtesy of Bellavista Cloud Forest Reserve.
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Rainfall is seasonal and results inmajor changes for the living organ-isms. Disturbances also add to thehigh dynamics of this ecosystem.
Many hypotheses have been made toexplain the impressively high diversi-ty in tropical rain forests, and eachprovides an insight to better under-stand this complex ecosystem. Thecompetition for resources has ledorganisms to adapt to unique niches,
At first glance, the rain forest is a vastgreen wilderness. However, when oneobserves carefully, this ecosystem isfull of surprises for its visitors. Notonly is each tree very different from thenext, but also for every tree, there arehundreds of other plant and animalspecies in constant interaction.Tropical rain forests occupy 7% of theEarth’s surface, but they hold 50% ofthe world’s biodiversity (Myers 1988;Wilson 1988). These forests are foundin Central America, Africa and Asia,but the biggest area extends through-out the South American Amazon.
To truly take advantage of the rainforest, one must awaken all fivesenses to discover how exotic lifeforms have evolved to live togetherin a minimal amount of land. Theembracing sounds tell of the variousbirds and insects that keep this livingforest in constant change. One mustcarefully observe the many other ani-mal and plant species, as they haveamazing color and texture adapta-tions that can be easily confusedwith the scenery. The various smellstell of the chemicals that the plantshave developed as a defense fromherbivores, and many serve inmedicinal use for humans.
In contrast to what one may think, thesoil of the rain forest is not fertile.The nutrients that supply this exu-
berant ecosystem are the product ofa constant interaction between theliving and dying organisms on thesurface. Decomposition is vital tothe dynamics of the forest. Thus, it isimportant to preserve this ecosystemin its entirety.
The temperature in tropical rainforests is quite stable, with a variationbetween day and night. However, thisecosystem is far from being stable.
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ties are offered by our sponsors.Contact them to immerse yourself ina splendor of life and discover a dif-ferent way to look at the world!
CLIMATE:The climate is precisely the one youwould expect form the rainforest –hot and humid, with plenty of rain.April to July are the wettest months,but you can expect cloudbursts mostdays throughout the year, especiallyduring the early afternoon.
Typical daytime temperatures fluc-tuate around 25ºC (77ºF), eventhough daily highs can reach over32ºC (90ºF).
thus resulting in a number of special-ized and interdependent organisms.
The overwhelming complexity of theforest makes one wonder about theancestral knowledge of the indige-nous inhabitants. These cultureshave passed their knowledge fromgeneration to generation as a way tokeep the secrets hidden in this mag-ical site.
In Ecuador, the East of the Andesfalls into this exuberant ecosystem.Locally the Amazonia is calledOriente, as it lies on the eastern sideof the country. It occupies almosthalf of Ecuador’s territory, however,
it is home to less than five percent ofthe country’s population.
The Ecuadorian Amazon region isbasically divided into NorthernOriente (Sucumbios, Napo andOrellana provinces) and SouthernOriente (Pastaza, Morona Santiagoand Zamora Chinchipe provinces).
The Ecuadorian rainforest is home tonine natural reserves, including thetwo largest mainland protectedareas, Parque Nacional Yasuni andthe Reserva Faunistica Cuyabeno.
Opportunities to visit primary forestsand to interact with local communi-
WHAT TO BRING:• CASUAL AND LIGHT LONG SLEEVE
SHIRTS AND LONG PANTS (BECAUSEOF THE INSECTS AND THE BOUNTI-FUL VEGETATION)
• HIKING OR COMFORTABLE SHOES • BATHING SUIT • RUBBER BOOTS & RAIN PONCHO
(ALTHOUGH MOST FACILITIES HAVERUBBER BOOTS IN SEVERAL SIZESAND RAIN PONCHOS AVAILABLE FORTHEIR GUESTS)
• SUNSCREEN LOTION• INSECT REPELLENT• A HAT• A BACKPACK• A FLASHLIGHT WITH EXTRA BATTERIES• BINOCULARS• CAMERA• WATERPROOF BAGS FOR YOUR
BELONGINGS• CASH (BANKING FACILITIES ARE
POOR IN THE ECUADORIAN ORIENTE)• EMERGENCY SUPPLIES: MOST
LODGES OFFER FIRST-AID KITS, BUTYOU MIGHT WANT TO CARRY YOURPERSONAL KIT. IF YOU ARE ALLERGIC TO INSECTS,DO NOT FORGET THE NECESSARYMEDICATIONS IN CASE YOU MIGHTFACE A CRISIS
• ORIGINAL PASSPORT (REQUIRED ATSOME SPOTS AT THE ECUADORIANAMAZONIA)
• VACCINATIONS AND MEDICINES:IT IS RECOMMENDED TO CONSULT YOUR PHYSICIAN TO GETTHE MOST UPDATED INFORMATIONAND ADVICE. FOR SOME SITES DEEPWITHIN THE RAINFOREST, YOU MIGHT BE REQUESTED A YELLOW-FEVERVACCINATION. YOU MAY ALSO WANTTO TAKE MALARIA PILLS; CONSULTYOUR DOCTOR.
HOW TO GET THERE:FLIGHTS ARE OFFERED TO THE FOL-LOWING CITIES:• COCA – CAPITAL OF THE ORELLANA
PROVINCE – ROUNTRIP FLIGHTAPROX. $120, SERVED BY THE LOCALAIRLINE TAME.
• LAGO AGRIO – CAPITAL OFSUCUMBIOS, THE NORTHERN-MOSTPROVINCE OF THE ECUADORIANAMAZONIA. THE CITY OF LAGOAGRIO IS NOW OFFICIALLY CALLEDNUEVA LOJA. TAME OFFERS DAILYFLIGHTS FOR APROX. $120ROUNDTRIP
• MACAS- CAPITAL OF THE MORONASANTIAGO PROVINCE. TWO LOCALAIRLINES OFFER THIS SERVICE:TAME AND SAEREO- ROUNDTRIPAPROX $140
* THE CITIES OF TENA AND PUYO CANBE EASILY REACHED BY LAND (A 3–6 HOURS DRIVE FROM QUITO).
IMPORTANT TIPS AND RECOMMENDATIONS
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www.manateeamazonexplorer.com
Gaspar de Villarroel 1100 & 6 de Diciembre Edificio Ritz Plaza Esquina Phone: (593-2) 336-0887 / 336-0888 / 336-0889Fax: (593) 2-336-0774 email: [email protected]
INITIATIVE YASUNI- ITT“A Big Idea From a Small Country”
The Initiative Yasuní ITT is the insignia project of theEcuadorian Government in regards to the environ-ment. It aims to prevent the exploitation of an impor-tant oilfield in order to protect one of the richest areasin regards to biodiversity in the world, located in theEcuadorian Amazonia: the Yasuní National Park,declared a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO. Asole hectare in this Park holds more species than thewhole of North America! Moreover, properly conserv-ing the Yasuní Park would also allow the Tagaeri andTaromenane peoples to remain in voluntary isolation.
The Ishpingo-Tambococha- Tiputini oilfield holds areserve of approximately 850 million crude barrels.The exploitation of this material would mean theemission of 407 million tons of carbon dioxide.President Correa presented at the United NationsAssembly, in September 2007, the proposal to keepthe oil of the Yasuní-ITT field indefinitely in theground, if the international community contributeswith at least the 50% of the opportunity cost of oilextraction. For this purpose, a capital fund adminis-tered by the PNUD was created. The state is willingto assume the remaining share of the cost.
The fund’s capital will be invested in renewableenergy projects in Ecuador, taking advantage of thecountry’s vast hydroelectric, geothermal, wind andsolar potential. It will also be invested to promotesocial development in the Initiative’s zones of influ-ence, including health, education, training, techni-cal assistance and productive job creation in sus-tainable activities, such as ecotourism, agricultureand agro-forestry.
The voluntary contributions could come from: govern-ments of partner countries and international multilat-eral organizations, civil society organizations, sociallyand environmentally responsible private sector com-panies, and contributions from citizens worldwide.
For more information visit www.yasuni-itt.gob.ec
YOU CAN ALSO CONTRIBUTE!You can make your donations at: www.yasunisupport.org
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PREMIUM LODGING - AMAZONÍA
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Ecuador a click away
Learn about Ecuadorand book premiumservices
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The Railway toDiscover EcuadorThe construction of the Ecuadorian rail-road began in the late XIX century, andby 1908 the stretch Quito- Guayaquilwas completed. Nowadays some ofthe tracks have been refurbished andoffer a unique way to discoverEcuador’s contrasting landscapes.We recommend that you visit theEloy Alfaro train station inChimbacalle (Quito). It includes amuseum (open Mon-Sun 8h30-16h00), and a cafeteria (open Mon-Sun 7h00- 19h00).
Some of the train routes thatare open at the moment are:
Machachi Festivo (FestiveMachachi) Quito- Machachi- QuitoItinerary: Thursday to Sunday andholidays/ Departure: 8h15Dist: 40 km / Duration: 1h 45 minExcursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 15Standard Plus- $20Surrounded by gorgeous landscapesand diverse ecosystems, this trainride ends at the fertile valley ofMachachi, where tourists can enjoy avariety of recreational activities in anumber of haciendas and lodges.
Páramo Infinito (Infinite Moor)Machachi- Boliche- MachachiDistance: 19 km/ Duration: 4 hours
Itinerary: Saturdays, Sundays andholidays / Departure: 10h45Excursion standard- $10Taking off from Machachi, this excur-sion enters the Cotopaxi NationalPark, crowned by the outstandingvolcano with the same name.
Camino al Boliche (On the wayto Boliche) Quito- Boliche- QuitoDistance: 59 km/ Duration: 8 hoursItinerary: Thursday to Sunday andholidays / Departure: 8h15Excursion standard- $20Standard plus- $25This excursion includes the com-plete journey from Quito to Boliche(a combination of the two mentionedabove).
Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose)Alausí- Sibambe- AlausíItinerary: Tuesday to Sunday and hol-idays / Departures: 8h00 / 11h00 /15h00 / Dist: 12 km / Duration: 1 hExcursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 25Standard Plus- Roundtrip $35This route through striking Andeanlandscapes includes a zig zag rail-road that at the time of its construc-tion was one of the most demandingengineering works. Although short,the ride is fascinating!
Tren de la Libertad (Liberty Train)Ibarra- Salinas- IbarraItinerary: Wednesday to Sunday andholidays / Departures: 10h30
Dist: 30 km / Duration: 1 h 30 minExcursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 15 Express Travel (Autoferro Trip/ auto-guidance) - Roundtrip $ 6.50This fascinating journey crossesthrough a number of bridges andtunnels built by pickaxe and shovelthrough the mountains and hills. Inonly 30 km, one passes through avariety of contrasting landscapes,which are home to different cultures.
Sendero de los Arrozales(Ricefields Journey)Durán- Yaguachi- DuránItinerary: Thursday to Sunday andholidays / Departures: 9h00 / 13h15Dist: 22 km / Duration: 3 h 45 min Excursion Standard - Roundtrip $ 10Express Travel (autoguidance) -Roundtrip $ 3.50This is the only route that operatesin the Coast. Tourists are able toappreciate the local agriculturalproduction, as well as a variety ofbird species. The passengers arereceived by a dance and music pres-entation by the “montubios”, tradi-tional inhabitants of the region.
TICKET POINTSQuito: El Quinde Store / Venezuela &Espejo/ P: 2288696Guayaquil: Malecón & Calle AguirreYou can also make reservations andbook tickets at: www.ecuadorbytrain.comphone: 1-800- TRENES (873637)
ECUADORBY TRAIN
NARIZ DEL DIABLO (DEVIL’S NOSE)
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THE MOST COMPLETE GUIDE OF ECUADOR SINCE 1968
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