1. Introduction
2. Characteristics
3. Effect
4. Safety data
5. Comparison ENB-VCE & J
6. Skin Penetration
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1. Name
INCI Name: Ethyl ascorbic acid
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbyl Ether
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Vitamin C Ethyl
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2. Structure
Molecular formula : C8H12O6
CAS No.: 86404-04-8Molecular weight : 204.18Vitamin-C content : 86.3 %
O
HO
O
O
HO
HO
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3. Stability
Conventional Vitamin C is easily oxidized and destroyed by heat,Conventional Vitamin C is easily oxidized and destroyed by heat, air, light, air, light, etc. Especially, when it is mixed with other cosmetics which neeetc. Especially, when it is mixed with other cosmetics which needs to be ds to be stored long time. Vitamin C usually causes the problem of color stored long time. Vitamin C usually causes the problem of color change in change in cosmetic products.cosmetic products.
In the other hand, Vitamin C ethyl is free from the those In the other hand, Vitamin C ethyl is free from the those unstabilitiesunstabilities..
Vitamin C Ethyl is stable because it is metabolized as purVitamin C Ethyl is stable because it is metabolized as pure vitamin c in the e vitamin c in the living body.living body.
This vitamin Ethyl C is stable whereas conventional vitamiThis vitamin Ethyl C is stable whereas conventional vitamin C has a n C has a weakness that it is expedited to be oxidized in a normal weakness that it is expedited to be oxidized in a normal subacidsubacid..
In the structure of Vitamin C, Vitamin C Ethyl replaces In the structure of Vitamin C, Vitamin C Ethyl replaces EthoxyEthoxy group in the group in the 3rd place which has strong acid. Vitamin C Ethyl is protected fr3rd place which has strong acid. Vitamin C Ethyl is protected from the metal om the metal ion. As a result it doesn't change in its color and has nor abnion. As a result it doesn't change in its color and has nor abnormal reaction.ormal reaction.
2001 : permitted as a whitening functional material from Korea F2001 : permitted as a whitening functional material from Korea Food and Drug Administration ood and Drug Administration
2003 : permitted as a QUASI2003 : permitted as a QUASI--DRUGS from JFDADRUGS from JFDA
Stabilized L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).
white, odorless, crystallized powder
Similar effect with L-ascorbic acid
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1-1. Whitening
Decrease the formation of Melanocyte
Excellent anti-ageing effect-Recover from:
- Sun-damage
- Discoloration
- Dark spots
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1-2. Whitening Effect (Cell Test)
40
60
80
100
120
0 0.005 0.01 0.015 0.02
ENB-VCE
VC-PMG
AA2G
SAP
Mela
nocyt
e(%
)
Content (W %)
Fig.1 Whitening Test by Melanocyte
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1-3. Whitening Effect (Photograph)
VC-PMG
ENB-VCE
Before 2 weeks later 6 weeks later
Fig. 3 Whitening Test ( Using 0.7 MED UV Ray)
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0 1 2 3 4 5 66 0
6 1
6 2
6 3
6 4
6 5
6 6
6 7
L N
umbe
r
W e e k s
V C - P M G E N B - V C E
Fig.2 Whitening Test ( In Vivo) by Chromameter CR-300
1-4. Whitening Effect (Chromameter Test)
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1-5. Comparision Whitening effect with other Vitamin C Derivatives
Tested substanceTested substanceSample Sample
concentration(%)concentration(%)
Rate of inhibition of UVRate of inhibition of UV--introduced introduced
melanizationmelanization of DHICA(%)of DHICA(%)
Ascorbic acid (vitaminAscorbic acid (vitamin--C)C)
0.10.1 7070
VC VC –– PMGPMG 0.10.1 2020
AA AA -- 2G2G 0.10.1 2020
EthlyEthly ascorbylascorbyl etherether 0.10.1 8080
EthlyEthly ascorbylascorbyl etherether 0.010.01 4040
• VC-PMG : Magnesium-L-Ascorbly-2-Phosphate
• AA-2G : Ascorbate-2-O-Glucoside
2-1. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen
Helps Collagen synthesis
Recover damaged Collagen
Reduces the Copper Ion of Tyrosinase
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2-3. Penetration into Skin
Fig. 4 The result of penetration of calcein cream into skin of rat by OECD Guide line TG 428OECD Guide line TG 428(12 hr later after spreading cream )
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Normal emulsion applied Normal emulsion applied NanoNano emulsion applied emulsion applied
0 .0 0 0 .0 2 0 .0 4 0 .0 6 0 .0 8 0 .1 000
1 0 0
2 0 02 0 0
3 0 0
4 0 04 0 0
5 0 0
Cel
l (%
)
C o n t e n t ( w t % )
V i ta m in - C V C - P M G A A 2 G S A P E N B - V C E
2-4. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen
Fig. 5 Cell Toxicity Test by 10% FBS Environment
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Fig. 6 Cell Toxicity Test by 4% FBS Environment)
0 .0 0 0 .0 2 0 .0 4 0 .0 6 0 .0 8 0 .1 00
1 0 0
2 0 0
3 0 0
4 0 0
5 0 0
Cel
l (%
)
C o n te n t (% )
V ita m in -C V C -P M G A A 2 G S A P E N B -V C E
2-5. Formation & Synthesis of Collagen
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2-6. Delivery of Vitamin C to skin
Low Molecular WeightGood Water solubility (L-ascorbic acid)- Ether bonding
Table 1. Comparison by Vitamin-C Derivative
86.3204.2C8H12O6ENB-VCE
56.3334C6H6O9P3NaSAP
51.9362C12H18O11AA2G
62.0303.5C6H8O9P3/2MgVC-PMG
V-C ContentsM/WFormulaItem
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1. STABILITY by pH
0 2 0 4 0 6 0 8 0 1 0 00
2 0
4 0
6 0
8 0
1 0 0
Con
tent
(%)
D a y s
I n A q . I n p H 4 . 0 I n p H 6 . 0 I n p H 8 . 0
Fig. 7 Stability by Buffer solution (40℃ for 90 days)
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2. Stability in formulation
Table 2. Test Condition
2 types per 1 item and 3 samples of each type Analysis samples :
Skin, Essence, CreamTest Item :
90 days (per 1 month)Period of Analysis :
Column (X-Terra15cm), Eluant (Buffer), Flow rate (0.8mL/min), Detector (UV 245nm), Temperature(20℃), Pressure(1,650-1,750 psi)
Analysis environment :
Skin, Essence in Incubator (40℃), Cream to room temperature
Storage environment :
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Fig. 8 Change of ENB-VCE as Time goes on
0 20 40 60 80 1001.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
Con
cent
ratio
n (%
)
Days
Skin Essence Cream
0 20 40 60 80 1001.0
1.2
1.4
1.6
1.8
2.0
2.2
2.4
Con
cent
ratio
n (%
)
Days
Skin Essence Cream
(a) TYPE-I (a) TYPE-II
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5. HPLC Data
(a) ENB-VCE (b) J
Ret Time : 12. 276 Ret Time : 12. 277
Fig.12 HPLC-Graph of Comparing ENB-VCE with J
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6-1. Delivery Reaction of ENB-VCE into Skin
Test Method
Vitamin C Cream
PBS Buffer
Penetration
Rat’s Skin Layer
6-2. Comparision the contained quantity of Nano emulsion absorbed PBS Bufffer
0
0.1
0.2
0.3
0.4
0.5
3hr 6hr 9hr 12hr 24hr
Raw Material (ENB-VCE)
Homogenized Emulsion
Nano Emulsion
Hour (hr)
ENB
-VC
E (㎎
/㎠)
6-3. Comparision the contained quantity of emulsion measured in Rat’s Skin layer
Hour (hr)
ENB
-VC
E (㎎
/㎠)
0
0.2
0.4
0.6
0.8
1
1.2
1.4
Raw Material
(ENB-VCE)
Homogenized
Emulsion
Nano Emulsion
6hr
12hr
24hr
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