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#P10-10 Mantle ClockHeres a fun clock project that looks fancy, yetis very easy to make. Youll be amazed! 18H
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GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.
Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied
to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has
been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.
Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain
patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive
to use.
Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.
They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood
without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once
youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,
with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time
you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to
use will become personal preference. For the beginning
scroller we make the following recommendations to get
you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.
Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares
instructions.
Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready
to apply the pattern to your work pieces.
Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more
sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended
#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness
1/16 - 1/4
1/4 - 1/2
1/2 - 3/4 or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed
Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.
Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Pattern
overlap
line Clear
tape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
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REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after
photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky
- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.
Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying
the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before
you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the
other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily
removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather
than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade
to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when
you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly
new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more
than a total thickness
of 1/2 for best
results.
On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together
by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich
between the work pieces.
On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or
brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are
cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along
with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone
through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,
or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom
of the work piece.
If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close
to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly
smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The
following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.
1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.
2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better
control of the workpiece.
3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the
table with your fingers for better control.
4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind
that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
4/59
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood
similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
5/59
#P10-10
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved
www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P10-10 Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood.
2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly.
Sand as necessary.
3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces
with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior
designs. And drill where indicated.
4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded
by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.
5.Assemble by first attaching the Sides and Spacer to the Front. Then, attachthe Back. Now, attach the Base and the Edging. Next, attach the SideBrackets and the Fences. Proceed to attach the Roof and Crest, and the Dial.Finish as desired. Insert the clock movement, attach the hands, and hang thePendulum.
#P10-10 Mantle Clock
AC
B
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
D
J
Pendulum (K)Stock 1/8
Hook
Clockmovement
Front
Insert the remaining 1/4side through the
pendulum hook on theClock Movement.
3
RecommendedPendulum Movement - #C131Hands - #C137 or #C138
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
1 ea
1
2
1
2
1
2
1
1
2
1
Front & Back
Crest
Side
Edging
Side Bracket
Base
Roof
Spacer
Dial
Fence
Pendulum
Description Item Qty
#P10-10 Mantle Clock
1/4T x 6W x 13 3/4L
1/8 - 1/4T x 6 3/8W x 11L
1/4T x 3 3/16W x 11 3/16L
1/4T x 5 3/4W x 9 3/4L
1/4T x 2W x 10 3/4L
1/4 - 1/2T x 5 3/4W x 9 3/4L
1/4T x 4 1/4W x 4 7/16L
1/4 - 1/2T x 3 3/16W x 5 7/16L
1/8T x 5 3/4W x 5 3/4L
1/4T x 2W x 8 1/4L
1/8T x 1 5/8W x 5L
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Clockmovement
Hook
Pendulum
Front
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Diagram for Attaching Pendulumto Clock Movement
Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.
2Pendulum
Hook
Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape
1
1/41/4
1/8
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Spacer (H)
Edging (D)
Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4, 1 eachCut design in front only.Bottom pattern piece.
Attach Sides and Spacer with glue and#18 x 5/8wire brads.
Bore 5/16 hole forclock shaft.
Pattern overlap line
#P10-10
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
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Roof
(G)
Roof(G)
1/4 diameter x 3 5/8 Ldowel. Secure with glue.
Front & Back (A)Stock: 1/4, 1 eachTop pattern piece.
Dashed line indicates placementof Dial (I).
Bore 5/16 hole for clockshaft in front only.
Note - Cut a 4 hole in the Back forchanging batteries and setting time.
Pattern overlap line#P10-10
Front
Top
Roof (G)Stock: 1/4, cut 2
Front(A)
Back(A)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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Crest(B)
Stock:1/8-1/4
Rightpatternpiece.
Pattern overlap line
Crest(B)
Stock:1/8-1/4
Leftpatternpiece.
AttachCresttoRoofw
ithglue
and#18x5/8wirebra
ds.
Pattern overlap line
#P10-10
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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Side (C)Stock: 1/4, cut 2Bottom pattern piece.
Spacer (H)
Pattern overlap line
Side Bracket (E)Stock: 1/4, cut 2. Cut eachin half and fit above andbelow Edging (D).Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
Side (C)Stock: 1/4, cut 2Top pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
#P10-10
Side Bracket (E)Stock: 1/4, cut 2. Cut each in
half and fit above andbelow Edging (D)
Bottom pattern piece.
Pattern overlap line
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
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#P10-10
Edging
(D)
Stock:1/4
Front(A)
Front(A)
Side(C)
Side(C)
Back(A)
Side
Bracket(E)
Front
Fence(J)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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#P10-10
Base(F)
Stock:1/4-1/2
Front(A)
Front(A)
Side(C)
Side(C)
Back(A)
Spacer(H)goeshere.
Front
Fence(J)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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#P10-10
Fence(J)
Stock:1/4,cut2
Dial (I)Stock: 1/8Drill 5 1/6 hole for clock shaft.
Spacer (H)Stock: 1/4 - 1/2
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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#P488 - Black Forest ClockCapture old world charm with our popularBlack Forest Clock. 16 tall.
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GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.
Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied
to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has
been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.
Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain
patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive
to use.
Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.
They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood
without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once
youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,
with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time
you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to
use will become personal preference. For the beginning
scroller we make the following recommendations to get
you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.
Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares
instructions.
Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready
to apply the pattern to your work pieces.
Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more
sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended
#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness
1/16 - 1/4
1/4 - 1/2
1/2 - 3/4 or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed
Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.
Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Pattern
overlap
line Clear
tape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
15/59
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after
photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky
- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.
Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying
the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before
you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the
other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily
removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather
than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade
to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when
you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly
new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more
than a total thickness
of 1/2 for best
results.
On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together
by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich
between the work pieces.
On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or
brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are
cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along
with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone
through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,
or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom
of the work piece.
If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close
to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly
smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The
following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.
1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.
2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better
control of the workpiece.
3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the
table with your fingers for better control.
4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind
that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
16/59
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood
similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
17/59
#P488
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002 All Rights Reserved
www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core
plywood.
2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size
accordingly. Sand as necessary.
3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the
work pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer
shapes and any interior designs. And drill where indicated.
4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can
be rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if
desired.
5. Assemble by first attaching the Pendulum to the Back. Next
attach the Frame to the Back with glue and finishing nails. Then
attach the Crest, Leaves, Bird, Door Frame, and Door. Finally,attach brass eye screws to the bottom of the clock assembly and
to the top of the Pinecones. Use chain to hang the Pinecones.
Finish as desired and insert the clock insert.
#P488 Black Forest Clock Instructions
Note: For a more realistic appearance,cut along all solid black lines on theBird and Leaf patterns. Shape eachsection by sanding the interior edges.Glue back together.
1
2
3
4
5
678
9
10
1112
B
A
C
C
C
D
EF
G
HH
I
C
Intarsia Leaf (C)Stock: 1/2 - 3/4, cut 5
Pinecone(H)
Stock:3/8-1/2
,cut2
#P488 - Black Forest ClockDescription Item Qty
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
HI
Back
Frame
Intarsia Leaf
Intarsia Bird
Door
Door Frame
Crest
PineconePendulum
1
1
5
1
1
1
1
21
Size
3/4T x 4 3/4W x 7L
3/4T x 7 1/2W x 9 3/4L
1/2 - 3/4T x 3 1/4W x 4L
1/2 - 3/4T x 3 1/4W x 4 3/4L
1/4T x 1 1/4W x 1 1/4L
1/4T x 2W x 2 1/2L
3/4T x 3 3/4W x 8L
3/8 - 1/2T x 1 1/4W x 4 3/4L3/4T x 1W x 10 1/2L
#P488 - Black Forest Clock
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#P488
Door Frame (F)Stock: 1/4
Door (E)Stock: 1/4
Carve orscrollsaw linesinto Door
Note: To scroll saw the lines into theDoor after cutting the outer shape,hold the work piece vertically on yourscroll saw table and gently press thework piece into the blade.
Bore a 2 3/8 holefor clock insert
Use chain and eyescrews to hangPinecone from
bottom of Back(A). Center eyescrew from front toback.
Back (A)Stock: 3/4
Slot forPendulum
Dashed-dot linesindicate Doorand Door Frameplacement
Dashed linesindicatePinecones
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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#P488
Roundoveredges with arouter bit orby sanding.
Dashed lineindicatesBack (A)
Small dashedline indicatesCrest (G)
Frame (B)Stock: 3/4
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
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#P488
IntarsiaBir
d(D)
Stock:1/2-3/
4
Pendulum (I)Stock: 3/4, front view
Side view ofPendulum (I)top
Front
Side view ofPendulum (I)bottom
Roun
doveredges
with
arouterbitorby
sanding.
Crest(G)
Stock:3/4
The Berry Basket Copyright 2002
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#P650 - Pendulum Clock10 1/2H. Order Movement #C132 &Hands #C139 or #C140
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GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.
Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied
to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has
been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.
Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain
patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive
to use.
Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.
They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood
without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once
youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,
with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time
you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to
use will become personal preference. For the beginning
scroller we make the following recommendations to get
you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.
Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares
instructions.
Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready
to apply the pattern to your work pieces.
Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more
sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended
#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness
1/16 - 1/4
1/4 - 1/2
1/2 - 3/4 or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed
Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.
Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Pattern
overlap
line Clear
tape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
23/59
REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after
photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky
- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.
Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying
the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before
you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the
other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily
removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather
than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade
to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when
you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly
new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more
than a total thickness
of 1/2 for best
results.
On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together
by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich
between the work pieces.
On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or
brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are
cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along
with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone
through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,
or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom
of the work piece.
If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close
to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly
smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The
following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.
1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.
2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better
control of the workpiece.
3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the
table with your fingers for better control.
4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind
that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
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VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood
similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
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#P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock
Dial
Rim
Top Figure
Overlay
Bottom Overlay
Pendulum Overlay
Pendulum
Back
Clock Support
Overlay
Description
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
item
1
1
1
4
1
1
1
1
1
1
Qty Size
1/4T x 8 1/4W x 8 1/4L
1/8T x 10 3/4W x 10 1/2L
1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/2W x 5 1/2L
1/16 - 1/8T x 1 1/4W x 3L
1/16 - 1/8T x 2 1/4W x 5 3/4L
1/16 - 1/8T x 3 3/4W x 3 3/4L
1/16 -1/8T x 2W x 8 5/8L
1/8T x 8 1/4W x 8 1/4L
1T x 3 1/2W x 3 3/4L
1/8T x 4W x 4 1/2L
#P650
A
H
I
Backside view of Clock
#P650 -Wildlife Pendulum Plate Clock
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
J
#P650 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core
plywood.
2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size
accordingly. Sand as necessary.
3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work
pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and
any interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be
rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.
5.Assemble by first attaching the Back to the backside of the Dial.
Then attach the Rim, securing it to the Dial with glue. Now attach the
Overlays securing with glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock
movement through the rubber washer, and then insert the shaft through
the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass washer onto the
shaft an secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex nut,
making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach
the Clock Support into place. Also, attach the Pendulum Overlay to the
Pendulum. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the pendulum, and
insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired andattach the hands.
Patte
rn
overlap
line
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved
www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
Dial (A) and Back (H)Dial (A) Stock: 1/4, cut interior design in (A) only. Left pattern piece.Back (H) Stock: 1/8, cut on outside solid line only. Left pattern piece.
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#P650
Overlay (D)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 4Spacers: 1/4, cut 8
Drill 5/16 holefor clock shaft.
Pattern
overlap
line
Dial (A) and Back (H)Dial (A) Stock: 1/4, cut interior design in (A) only. Right pattern piece.Back (H) Stock: 1/8, cut on outside solid line only. Right pattern piece.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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Rim (B)Stock: 1/8. Left pattern piece.
Pattern
overlap
line
#P650
Top Figure (C)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Spacers: 1/4, cut 2
Bottom Overlay (E)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Spacers: 1/4, cut 3
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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Pattern
overlap
line
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Clockmovement
Hook
Pendulum
Front
Pendulum Overlay (F)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Pendulum (G)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
PendulumOverlay (F)
Recommended PendulumMovement - #C132Hands - #C139 or #C140
Diagram for Attaching Pendulumto Clock Movement
Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of the
Pendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.
2Pendulum
Hook
Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape
1
1/41/4
1/8
Hook
Clockmovement
FrontInsert the remaining 1/4side through the
pendulum hook on theClock Movement.
3
Rim (B)Stock: 1/8. Right pattern piece.
#P650
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P650
Clock Support (I)Stock: 1. Secure to backsideof Back (H) with glue and wirebrads.
Drill for hanging or attachhanger of your choice.
Drill 5/16 holefor clock shaft.
Overlay (J)Stock: 1/8
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P651 - Pendulum Clock18H. Order Movement #C132 &Hands #C137 or #C138
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GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.
Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied
to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has
been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.
Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain
patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive
to use.
Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.
They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood
without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once
youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,
with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time
you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to
use will become personal preference. For the beginning
scroller we make the following recommendations to get
you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.
Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares
instructions.
Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready
to apply the pattern to your work pieces.
Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more
sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended
#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness
1/16 - 1/4
1/4 - 1/2
1/2 - 3/4 or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed
Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.
Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Pattern
overlap
line Clear
tape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
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REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after
photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky
- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.
Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying
the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before
you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the
other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily
removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather
than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade
to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when
you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly
new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more
than a total thickness
of 1/2 for best
results.
On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together
by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich
between the work pieces.
On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or
brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are
cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along
with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone
through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,
or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom
of the work piece.
If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close
to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly
smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The
following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.
1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.
2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better
control of the workpiece.
3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the
table with your fingers for better control.
4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind
that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
33/59
VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood
similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
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#P651
#P651 - Mantel Clock
Front & Back Support
Front & Back
Side
Crest
Roof
Dial Underlay
Dial
Flower Overlay
Flower Overlay
Pendulum Bob
Pendulum Rod
Description
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
I
J
K
Item
4
1 ea
2
1
2
1
1
1
1
1
1
Qty Size
1/4T x 6 5/8W x 10 5/8L
1/4T x 7 3/8W x 10 1/4L
1/4T x 6 1/8W x 9 7/8L
1/4T x 6W x 12 1/4L
1/4T x 4 1/2W x 4 7/8L
1/8T x 5 3/4W x 5 3/4L
1/8T x 5 1/4W x 5 1/4L1/16-1/8T x 1 1/4W x 1 1/4L
1/16-1/8T x 1 1/2W x 1 3/4L
1/16-1/8T x 1 3/4W x 1 3/4L
1/16-1/8T x 3/16W x 5 1/2L
#P651 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core
plywood.
2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly.
Sand as necessary.
3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work
pieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any
interior designs. And drill where indicated.4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be
rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.
5.Assemble by first attaching the Front and Back into the slots in the
Sides, securing with glue. Next, slide the Front and Back Supports into
place and secure with glue. Then, glue the Overlays into position. Now
place the rubber washer onto the clock shaft and insert the pendulum
clock movement into place behind the Front. Next, slide the Dial
Underlay and Dial onto the clock shaft and secure in place with the brass
washer and hex nut. Then attach the Roof, dowel, and Crest. Now glue
the Pendulum Bob to the Pendulum Rod, and attach the sheet metal
hanger as shown in the diagram. Finish as desired and insert the hands.
3
6
12
9
A
A
AA
B
C
C
F
G
HI
#P651 - Mantel Clock
BED
K
J
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved
www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
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#P651
Flower Overlay (H)Stock 1/16 - 1/8 Overlay (I)
Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Pendulum Bob (J)Stock 1/16 - 1/8
Front & BackSupport (A)Stock: 1/4, cut 4
Dashed line indicatesplacement of FlowerOverlay (H).
Dashed line indicatesplacement of FlowerOverlay (I).
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P651
Front & Back (B)Stock: 1/4, cut 1 each
Small dashed linesindicate placement ofDial Overlay
Note: Cut a 4 diameter holein the Back. This will allowyou to change the battery andset the time.
Drill 5/16 hole forclock shaft.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P651
Side (C)Stock: 1/4, cut 2
Front
(A)(A)
(B)(B)
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P651
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement
Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.
2Pendulum
Hook
Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape
1
1/41/4
1/8
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Clockmovement
Hook
Pendulum
Front
Insert the remaining1/4 side through
the pendulum hookon the Clock
Movement.
3
Hook
Clockmovement
Front
Pendulum Rod (K)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Recommended PendulumMovement - #C132Hands - #C137 or #C138
Crest (D)Stock: 1/4. Left pattern piece.
Roof(E
)
R
3/8 diameter x 4 1/2long dowel
Attach with glue and#18 x 5/8 wire brads.
Pattern
overlap
line
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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Roof (E)Stock: 1/4, cut 2
Front
Top
Back(A)
Front(A)
Attach withglue and#18 x 5/8wire brads.
Roof(E)
Pattern
overlap
line
Crest (D)Stock: 1/4. Right pattern piece.
#P651
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P651
Dial (G)Stock 1/8Drill 5/16 hole for clock shaft.
Dial Underlay (F)
Stock 1/8
Dashed line indicatesplacement of Dial (G).
Drill 5/16 hole forclock shaft.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P654 - Pendulum Clock13H. Order Movement #C130 &Hands #C139
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GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.
Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied
to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has
been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.
Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain
patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive
to use.
Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.
They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood
without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once
youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,
with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time
you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to
use will become personal preference. For the beginning
scroller we make the following recommendations to get
you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.
Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares
instructions.
Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready
to apply the pattern to your work pieces.
Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more
sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended
#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness
1/16 - 1/4
1/4 - 1/2
1/2 - 3/4 or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed
Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.
Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Pattern
overlap
line Clear
tape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
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REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after
photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky
- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.
Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying
the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before
you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the
other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily
removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather
than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade
to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when
you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly
new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more
than a total thickness
of 1/2 for best
results.
On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together
by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich
between the work pieces.
On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or
brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are
cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along
with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone
through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,
or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom
of the work piece.
If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close
to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly
smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The
following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.
1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.
2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better
control of the workpiece.
3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the
table with your fingers for better control.
4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind
that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
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VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood
similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
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#P654
Description item Qty SizeFrame
Back
Spacer
Left Cloud
Right Cloud
Dial
Leaves
Cattails
PendulumLeft Mountain
Right Mountain
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
IJ
K
1
1
2
1
1
1
2
1
11
1
1/8T x 10 5/8W x 13 3/4L
1/4T x 9 3/4W x 11L
1T x 5W x 11 1/8L
1/16-1/8T x 1W x 2 1/2L
1/16-1/8T x 1 1/8W x 2 1/2L
1/16T x 6 1/4W x 6 1/4L
1/16-1/8T x 3 3/8W x 3 3/8L
1/16-1/8T x 4 1/4W x 9 1/4L
1/4T x 3 3/8W x 5 3/4L1/16-1/8T x 3W x 5 5/8L
1/16-1/8T x 2 5/8W x 5 3/8L
#P654 - Fishermans Clock
#P654 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core
plywood.
2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size
accordingly. Sand as necessary.
3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the workpieces with a repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and
any interior designs. And drill where indicated.
4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be
rounded by sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.
5.Assemble by first attaching the 2 Spacer halves to the Back with
glue and #18 x 3/4 wire brads. Then attach the Frame. Now, attach
any Figures into position on the Back. Next, attach the Dial and any
Overlays to the Frame. Insert the pendulum movement and secure in
place. And attach the Pendulum, and finish as desired.
#P654 - Fishermans Clock
DA
B
C
E
F
G
G
H
I
J
K
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001 All Rights Reserved
www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
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Dashedline
indicates
Spacer(C).
Cutonoutsideand
insidesolidlinesfor
Frame(A)only.
Fram
e(A)&Back(B)
Cut1each
StockFrame(A):1/8
StockBack(B):1/4
Toppa
tternpiece
Cut
onthissolidline
forBack(B)only.
Drill5/16holefor
clockshaft.
Patternoverlapline
#P654
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P654
Fram
e(A)&Back(B)
Cut1each
StockFrame(A):1/8
StockBack(B):1/4
Bottom
patternpiece
Patternoverlapline
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P654
Right Cloud (E)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8Spacer: 1/4, cut 1
Left Cloud (D)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Sp
acer(C)
Stock:1,cut2
Dial (F)Stock: 1/16Drill 5/16 hole forclock shaft.
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P654
Leaves (G)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8, cut 2Spacers: 1/8, cut 6
Cattails(H)
Stock:1/16-1/8
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P654
Right Mountain (K)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8Spacers: 1/4, cut 2
Left Mountain (J)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8Spacer: 1/4, cut 1
Pendulum (I)Stock: 1/16 - 1/8
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Clockmovement
Hook
Pendulum
FrontDiagram for Attaching Pendulum toClock Movement
Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to the
top front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.
2Pendulum
Hook
Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape
1
1/41/4
1/8
Hook
Clockmovement
FrontInsert the remaining 1/4side through the
pendulum hook on theClock Movement.
3
RecommendedPendulum Movement - #C131Hands - #C139
The Berry Basket Copyright 2001
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#P785 - Duck Pendulum ClockBring nature indoors with our tranquil DuckPendulum Clock. Use contrasting woods foradded effect. Nearly 11 in diameter.
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GENERAL SCROLLSAW TIPS & TECHNIQUESThe following scrollsaw tips and techniques are intended to get you started and on your way to scrollsaw success.
Not only will you find these techniques helpful in completing the this project, you will also find that they can be applied
to many other scrollsaw projects as well.
HARDWOODS VS PLYWOODS Selecting the type of material you will use is very important for the final outcome of your project. This project has
been designed so that hardwoods, plywoods, or a combination can be used to create your work of art.
Hardwoods have their advantages as well as their disadvantages. They come in a variety of species, colors and grain
patterns, yet they are more time consuming requiring more sanding, are more likely to warp and are more expensive
to use.
Plywoods, on the other hand, are less expensive, require less sanding, and come in a variety of standard thicknesses.
They also are less likely to develop cracks or warp. We do, however, recommend that you use a top grade plywood
without voids, such as the Baltic and Finnish birches.
SANDING For most projects, it is best to sand the work piece prior to applying the paper pattern and cutting the design. Once
youve cut the design, and removed the paper pattern, it may be necessary to lightly sand any glue residue remaining,along with any fuzz on the bottom side.
BLADE SELECTION There are many opinions pertaining to which blade to use with which type and thickness of material, as well as,
with how intricate the design in the project is. The more time
you put into scrolling, the more your choice of which blade to
use will become personal preference. For the beginning
scroller we make the following recommendations to get
you started:
USING THE PATTERNS Downloadable patterns give you the advantage of printing the patterns on your own printer at your own convenience.
Be sure to download all of the file and save it to a disk or your harddrive according to your computer softwares
instructions.
Once you have printed the number of pattern pieces that you will need to complete your projects, you are ready
to apply the pattern to your work pieces.
Apply the repositionable spray adhesive as directed in the next section. If your project requires piecing 2 or more
sheets of paper together to make the full-size pattern piece, simply follow the instructions below for accurate alignment.
Blade Size Recommended
#2/0 or #2
#5 or #7
#7 or #9
Material Thickness
1/16 - 1/4
1/4 - 1/2
1/2 - 3/4 or thicker
Step 1Using a straightedge and a craft knife, cut on the dashed
Pattern Overlap Lines to remove the excess paper.
Step 2Next, align the sections and secure together with clear tape.Now, apply the repositionable spray adhesive to the backsideof the paper pattern as instructed in the next section.
Cut onsolidlineforFrameonly.
Frame &BackStock:1/8-1/4,cut1eachLeft pattern piece.
Cut ondashed linefor Back
Pattern
overlap
line Clear
tape
Craft knife
Ruler
Patternoverlapline
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REPOSITIONABLE SPRAY ADHESIVEUsing a repositionable spray adhesive is the easiest and quickest way to transfer a pattern to your work piece after
photo copying it. In a well ventilated area, lightly spray the backside of the paper pattern. Allow it to dry only until tacky
- approximately 20 - 30 seconds. Then apply it to the work piece, smoothing any wrinkles if necessary.
Two common problems that sometimes occur when using repositionable spray adhesive for the first time is applying
the right amount onto the back of the pattern. Spraying too little may result in the pattern lifting off of the project before
you have finished cutting. If this occurs, clear scotch tape can be used to secure the pattern back into position. On the
other hand, spraying too much will make it difficult to remove the pattern, If this occurs, simply use a hand held hairdryer to heat the glue, which will loosen the pattern allowing it to be easily
removed.
DRILLING STARTER HOLES When drilling starter holes it is best to drill close to a corner, rather
than in the middle of the waste areas, as it will take less time for the blade
to reach the pattern line.
STACK CUTTING Stack cutting is fairly simple to do and can save you a lot of time when
you have 2 or more identical pieces to cut for a project. If you are fairly
new to scrollsawing and stack cutting, we recommend cutting no more
than a total thickness
of 1/2 for best
results.
On projects with
fairly simple shapes to cut out, 2 or 3 layers could be held together
by double-sided tape, or by using spray glue on paper to sandwich
between the work pieces.
On more intricate projects we suggest using #18 wire nails or
brads slightly longer than the total thickness of the stack you are
cutting. Tack the nails into the waste areas you will cut out, along
with a few around the outside of the project. If the nail has gone
through the bottom of the work piece, use a hammer to tap it flush,
or use coarse sandpaper to sand the points flush with the bottom
of the work piece.
If you are stack cutting hardwoods, do not tack the nail too close
to the pattern line or it may cause the wood to split. Another option would be to predrill for the nails with a slightly
smaller drill bit so the nail will fit snugly and hold the layers together securely.
SAWING THIN WOODS Occasionally you may find it difficult to control your workpiece when cutting in thin hardwoods or plywoods. The
following suggestions should help to eliminate or reduce this problem.
1. If you have a variable speed saw, reduce the speed to 1/2 to 3/4 of high speed.
2. If you do not have a variable speed saw, it will help to stack cut 2 or more layers of your material to keep better
control of the workpiece.
3. For cutting any thickness of material it is very beneficial to keep at least one hand, if not both, partially touching the
table with your fingers for better control.
4. Using a smaller blade with more teeth per inch helps to slow down how fast the blade is cutting. But keep in mind
that if the blade is leaving burn marks you will need to slow the speed down or use a blade with less teeth per inch.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
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VEINING Veining is a simple technique that will bring a lifelike
appearance to your project. The veins of a leaf or the folds
of clothing will look more realistic when this technique is
incorporated. To vein, simply saw all solid black lines as
indicated on the pattern. Some areas of the pattern you will
be able to vein by sawing inward from the outside edge, whilein other areas you will need to drill a tiny starter hole for the
blade.
AUXILIARY TABLE Most scrollsaws on the market today have an opening in
the table around the blade that is much larger than what you
really need. This often causes small and delicate fretwork to
break off on the downward stroke of the blade. An easy solution
is to add a wooden auxiliary table to the top of the metal table
on your saw.
To make an auxiliary table, choose a piece of 1/4 - 3/8 plywood
similar to the size of your current saws table. If you choose, you can
cut this plywood to the same shape as the metal table on your saw, or
any shape or size you prefer. However, we do recommend that you make
the table larger than what you think you will need for the size of the
projects you will make in the future.
Next, set the auxiliary table on top of the metal table. From the
underside of the metal table, use a pencil to mark the location where
the blade will feed through. Then turn the auxiliary table over and drill
a 1/16 - 1/8 diameter hole, or slightly larger than the blade you willbe using.
Finally, apply a couple of strips of double-sided carpet tape to the
metal table on each side of the blade. Then, firmly press the auxiliary
table onto the double-sided carpet tape, making sure that the blade is
centered in the hole.
FINISHING TECHNIQUES If youve made your project from hardwood, we recommend dipping your project in a dishpan type of container
that contains a penetrating oil such as Watco, Tung, or others. After dipping, allow the excess oil to drain back into
the pan and then follow the manufacturers instructions.
If you have chosen to use plywood, such as Baltic Birch, you can use any of the wide variety of wood stains
available on the market. We do, however, recommend sanding the surface thoroughly, in order for the plywood to
accept the stain more evenly.
As a final finish step, we highly recommend using a clear varathane type spray for a protective coating.
7/30/2019 Pendulum Clocks 12 64
55/59
#P785
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004 All Rights Reserved
www.greatamericanscrollsaw.com a division of The Berry Basket
GREAT AMERICAN
DOWNLOADABLE PATTERNS TM
#P785 - Duck Pendulum Clock
Clock Support
Pendulum
Overlay
Frame
Description
A
B
C
D
item
1
1
1
1
Qty Size
1T x 3 1/2W x 3 3/4L
1/16T x 4 3/4W x 9 1/8L
1/16 - 1/4T x 7 3/8W x 7 3/8L
1/4T x 10 1/4W x 10 1/4L
Recommended PendulumMovement - #C131Hands - #C141
#P785 - Assembly Instructions1. Select your material from a variety of hardwoods or solid core plywood.
2. Measure each pattern piece and cut the work pieces to size accordingly. Sand as
necessary.
3. Make all pattern pieces by adhering the paper patterns to the work pieces with a
repositionable spray adhesive. Cut the outer shapes and any interior designs. And
drill where indicated.
4. Remove all paper patterns. Sand where needed. The edges can be rounded by
sanding or using a small roundover router bit if desired.
5.Assemble by first attaching the Overlay to the Frame. Then attach the with
glue. Insert the hand shaft of the clock movement through the rubber washer, and
then insert the shaft through the backside of the clock assembly. Slide the brass
washer onto the shaft and secure the clock movement into place with the brass hex
nut, making sure the clock movement is positioned correctly. Next, attach the Clock
Support into place. Then secure the sheet metal hanger onto the Pendulum, and
insert into the hook on the clock movement. Finish as desired and attach the hands.
Side view of PendulumClock Movement Assembly
Clockmovement
Hook
Pendulum
Front
Diagram for Attaching Pendulum to Clock Movement
Secure one 1/4 sideof the hanger to thetop front of thePendulum withcontact cement orsuper glue.
2Pendulum
Hook
Form a hanger by bending a thinpiece of sheet metal 3/8W x 5/8Linto the following shape
1
1/41/4
1/8
Insert the remaining1/4 side through
the pendulum hookon the Clock
Movement.
3
Hook
Clockmovement
Front
D
A
Backside view of Clock
B
#P785 - DuckPendulumClock
C
D
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#P785
Clock Support (A)Stock: 1. Secure to backsideof Frame (D) with glue andwire brads.
Drill for hanging or attachhanger of your choice.
Pendulum (B)Stock: 1/16
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004
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#P785
Overlay (C)Stock: 1/16 - 1/4
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004
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Pattern
overlap
line
Frame (D)Stock: 1/4Left pattern piece.
#P785
The Berry Basket Copyright 2004
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Pattern
overlap
line
Frame (D)Stock: 1/4Right pattern piece.
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