Skinstitut Peel Manual Page 2 of 18
What is chemical peeling?
Chemical peeling consists of the application on the skin of exfoliating agents to obtain first, destruction and then regeneration of part of the epidermis and/or dermis. Chemical peels produce a controlled wound that will result in renewal with the reduction or disappearance of sun damage, pigmentation, acne lesions, fine lines and wrinkles and superficial depressed scars. Depth and results depend on the strength of agents used.
Levels of peels
Very Superficial
Superficial
Medium
Deep
Very Superficial
Superficial
Medium
Deep
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The Fitzpatrick skin scale
The Fitzpatrick skin scale
I. White - always burns, never tans
II. White - usually burns tans with difficulty
III. White - sometimes mild burn, tan average
IV. Moderate brown - rarely burns tans with ease
V. Dark brown - very rarely burns tans very easily
VI. Black – never burns, tans very easily
Wound healing process
Inflammatory
1-3+ days
Redness occurs, platelets form to prevent further bleeding and commence the release of
growth factors. The motive behind the inflammation stage is to seek and destroy bacteria. The
area is swarmed by an array of substances (white blood cells, neutrophils, macrophages) that
de activate bacteria and activate growth factors.
Skin at this stage is red, warm and swollen.
Proliferative
3-10+ days
Increased fibroblast activity stimulates collagen and fibronectin creating more elasticity in the
dermal layer. New blood vessels are formed (angiogenesis). Skin cells divide and produce new
cells.
Skin starts to flake and peel.
Type 3 collagen is produced
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Maturation
28+ days up to 2 years
Collagen is remodelled and realigned creating a plumper dermis. Scar tissue is flattened (if
surgical for example) epidermal layer becomes denser.
Type 3 collagen is replaced by Type 1 stronger collagen.
Skinstitut AHA Enzyme Peel
The AHA Enzyme Peel incorporates the use of peel accelerator to degrease and refine the skin
resulting in a gentle peel. Redness and mild peeling may occur if the skin is not prepped. This
peel is able to be performed on those clients who come into our clinic and are not currently
using the Skinstitut products.
Designed to renew and restore skin’s radiance while soothing, hydrating and micro exfoliating
dry, flaking and sensitised skins
The term "proteolytic" refers to an enzymatic reaction that can digest dead or diseased protein
material without harming living healthy cells.
Unlike abrasive scrubs or other mechanical methods, proteolytic enzymes are selective and
extremely unlikely to cause irritation from pressure or over manipulation.
Contains:
Papain enzymes – Proteolitic enzymes microexfoliate to promote a softer, smoother
skin without irritation
Niacinamide – vitamin B3, strengthens skins immune defence thus reduces sensitivity
and irritation, maintains treatment for hyper pigmentation through inhibition of
melanin transfer and regulates sebum production
Camomile – Soothing and calming
Hylauronic acid – Hydrating
Grape seed extract – Antioxidant and strengthening
D-Panethenol –form of pantotenic acid, provides healing and soothing abilities and
prevents erythema
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Skinstitut AHA Enzyme Peel Post Care
No active products for 3 days
(Glycolic Cleanser, L-lactic Cleanser 4%, Glycolic Scrub, Retinol, Vitamin C, Even Blend
Serum)
The following products may be used within the first 3 days:
Gentle Foaming Cleanser
Rejuvenate 15
Multi-Active Mist
Multi-Active Oil
Repair Balm (1/2 a pea size amount pressed over the face for the first 2-3 days)
Age Defence SPF 50+ to be worn daily and reapplied every 2 hours
Moisture Defence
Enzymatic Micro Peel maybe used to remove peeling skin as and when required. After
48hrs
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Skinstitut Peel Accelerator
The Skinstitut Peel Accelerator will renew, brighten and smooth the skin while proving
antibacterial support and improving hydration.
This unique peel is suitable for most skin types and can be intensified by layering or customized
with Vitamin C according to specific skin needs. Vitamin C will intensify the peel. This may be
beneficial for sun damaged skins, skins that require anti-oxidant protection or skins that may
have had previous peel accelerator treatments and are requiring a more intensive treatment
Peel Accelerator is used to degrease the skin before each peel and as a peel itself
Contains:
Niacinamide – vitamin B3, strengthens skins immune defence thus reduces sensitivity and
irritation, maintains treatment for hyper pigmentation through inhibition of melanin
transfer and regulates sebum production
D-Panethenol –form of pantotenic acid, provides healing and soothing abilities and
prevents erythema
L.Lactic Acid 20% – Alpha hydroxy acid for a more luminous skin
Glycolic Acid 17% – Alpha hydroxy acid that is known for its anti-inflammatory properties
L.Mandelic Acid 5% – Alpha hydroxy acid that is used for its anti-bacterial properties
Canadian Willowherb – a plant extract that has soothing, anti-inflammatory and anti-
microbial activity and is an excellent free radical scavenger
Witch Hazel Extract – a botanical extract that has potent antioxidant, anti-irritant, anti-
inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties
Kakadu Plum Extract – powerful antioxidant and free radical scavenger
D-Biotin –form of vitamin H, stimulates cell development and growth of nerve tissue
Skinstitut Peel Manual Page 7 of 18
Skinstitut Peel Accelerator pre-peel prep
The following protocol should be followed for 2 weeks prior to the Skinstitut Peel
Glycolic Cleanser 12% (at least once per day)
This will allow the skin to be able to better tolerate peel (less chance of epidermal
sliding or unwanted blanching of the skin)
Even Blend Serum both morning and evening to be used to reduce the risk of
hyperpigmentation. Can be omitted if client never suffers from Post Inflammatory
hyperpigmentation or is a Fitzpatrick skin type 1-2.
* When treating stubborn pigmentation add a rice grain size amount of Vitamin C to the
Even Blend Serum.
Age Defence SPF 50+ morning.
This can be omitted if the client is currently using an SPF
Patients with history of cold sores should be encouraged to prep prior to peel and post
peel with anti-herpetic medication - eg acyclovir and zovirax.
Skinstitut Peel Accelerator Post Care
No active products for 3 days
(Glycolic Cleanser, L-lactic Cleanser 4%, Glycolic Scrub, Retinol, Vitamin C, Even Blend
Serum)
The following products may be used within the first 3 days:
Gentle Foaming Cleanser
Rejuvenate 15
Multi-Active Mist
Multi-Active Oil
Repair Balm (1/2 a pea size amount pressed over the face for the first 2-3 days)
Age Defence SPF 50+ to be worn daily and reapplied every 2 hours
Moisture Defence
Enzymatic Micro Peel maybe used to remove peeling skin as and when required. After
48hrs
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Skinstitut Ageless Peel
Anabolic resurfacing treatment. This peel will assist in re building the dermis. Skin Rejuvenating anti-oxidant and amino acid peel
To reduce the appearance of the visible signs of ageing and sun damage. This revolutionary
peel works deep within the skin encouraging healthy new cell production resulting in a
revitalised, smoother radiant complexion
Contains:
Ceramide Complex - a plant derived mixture of phospholipids that restore the lipid
barrier of the stratum corneum, thus provides a balanced moisture content and
improves skin condition
Natural SMEC – a natural delivery system, that is non-irritating and absorbs quickly with
no greasy after-feel while providing excellent moisturising for the skin
L-Mandelic Acid 7% – an Alpha Hydroxy Acid that is used for its anti-bacterial properties
L-Lactic Acid 15% Is an Alpha Hydrox Acid for a more luminous skin. Exfoliates while
assisting in skin hydration.
MDI Complex – inhibits the matrix metalloproteinase enzyme activity that degrades
collagen. It protects against UV radiation and other irritants, thus increasing resistance
to physical assaults on the skin
Oceagen LS – a collagen of marine origin, similar to type 1 human collagen, it smoothes
and softens fine lines and improves moisture levels of the skin
Vit-A-Like 3% – of botanical origin, used as an alternative to retinol without undesirable
side effects such as irritation, photo damage, oxidation and instability. It stimulates
collagen through fibroblasts and enhances proliferation of keratinocytes, contributing to
skin renewal resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion
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Skinstitut Ageless Peel Prep
The following protocol should be followed for a minimum of 2 weeks prior to the Skinstitut Peel
Glycolic Cleanser 12% (at least once per day)
This will allow the skin to be able to better tolerate peel (less chance of epidermal
sliding or un-wanted blanching of the skin)
Even Blend Serum both morning and evening to be used to reduce the risk of
hyperpigmentation. Can be omitted if client never suffers from Post Inflammatory
Hyperpigmentation or is a Fitzpatrick skin type 1-2.
* When treating stubborn pigmentation add a rice grain size amount of Vitamin C to the
Even Blend Serum.
Retinol or Rejuvenate 15 to be used at night to stimulate the retinoic acid cell receptors
Age Defence SPF 50+ morning This can be omitted if the client is currently using an SPF
Patients with history of cold sores should be encouraged to prep prior to peel and post
peel with anti-herpetic medication - eg Acyclovir and Zovirax.
Skinstitut Ageless Peel Post Care
No active products for 3 days
(Glycolic Cleanser, L-Lactic Cleanser 4%, Glycolic Scrub, Retinol, Vitamin C, Even Blend
Serum)
The following products may be used within the first 3 days:
Gentle Foaming Cleanser
Rejuvenate 15
Multi-Active Mist
Multi Active Oil
Repair Balm (1/2 a pea size amount pressed over the face for the first 2-3 days)
Age Defence SPF 50+ to be worn daily and reapplied every 2 hours
Moisture Defence
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After 48 hours Enzymatic Micro Peel may be used to remove peeling skin when
required.
Peel Precautions
Do not apply over open lesions, eczema, or inflamed psoriasis
Do not use on Accutane patients. Must allow at least 6 and up to 12 months post
completing medication (check oil levels and sensitivity). Anti-inflammatory, hydrating
treatments only
Topical Retinoic Acid– wait at least 3 to 4 days
Facial waxing and hair dyeing, wait at least 7 days
IPL/Laser treated skin must wait at least 2 – 4 weeks
No Salicylic peels for aspirin allergy suffers
No Peels for at least 3 months post facial surgery
Note: Must allow 4 weeks between last dermal peel and surgery
Always wear gloves
Apply Repair Balm corners of the eyes, lips. May apply to flares of nostrils if skin is
irritated. Apply over cosmetic tattoos.
Have a small hand fan handy
When removing peel use a cotton pad /fibrella as this will be much gentler than using
gauze and at that time the skin will be in quite a sensitive state.
When removing the peel do not rub off as this could cause epidermal sliding, use
compression technique
Always use cold water both to soothe skin and remove excess peel
Note: Never perform peels on severely dehydrated skin. There could be extreme
penetration of the peel resulting in an adverse reaction
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AHA Enzyme Peel
All Skin Types
A gentle micro exfoliating treatment designed to soothe, hydrate and micro exfoliate dry, flaking and sensitised skins
Pre Treatment Protocol:
A proper consultation must be performed prior to any clinical skin treatment to ensure client is a suitable candidate for the intended procedure
Prepare work station
Pre- Procedure Work Station Set Up
Clean Towels Gauze Head Band
Tissues Timer Peel Accelerator
Glass Dish Cleansing Cloths Disposable Gloves
Protective Cap Fresh Water Enzymatic Micro Peel
Age Defence SPF 50+ Repair Balm Multi-Active Mist
Treatment Protocol:
Steps Instructions
1 Cleanse skin with a pea size amount of Gentle Cleanser on to moist hands and lather over face
to remove makeup. (This step can be omitted if not wearing make-up).
2 Cleanse skin with a pea size amount of Glycolic Cleanser using damp gauze and adjust
pressure as needed
3 Rinse with cool water and repeat step 2 to ensure removal of surface debris
4 Dry skin with tissue
5 Apply 1 pump of Peel Accelerator to skin with 1 piece of dry gauze using circular motions to
degrease and prep. Adjust pressure as needed
6 Apply Repair balm over eyebrows, corner of the eyes and lips
7 Apply a smooth film of Enzymatic Micro Peel to clean face and neck. Massage into the skin for
up to 5minutes.
8 Cleanse off with a pea size amount of Gentle Cleanser on to moist hands and lather over face.
Use a cold compress technique to remove.
9 Apply 1 spritz of Multi-Active Mist to the face, ensuring to cover clients eyes
10 IMPORTANT Follow with half a pea size amount of Repair Balm. Gently press into the skin.
Reapply if needed
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11 IMPORTANT Apply liberal amount of Age Defence SPF 50+
Benefits:
Gentle skin exfoliation for a smoother, brighter complexion
Hydrates and softens
Refreshes and re-vitalises
Pro Tips:
Apply Enzymatic Micro Peel to a cleansed skin to micro exfoliate the skin prior to dermal therapy modalities
Apply Enzymatic Micro Peel (no degrease with Peel Accelerator) after microdermabrasion as a treatment mask
Enzymatic Micro Peel can also be used as an exfoliant or treatment mask in professional treatments
Key Active Ingredients in Enzymatic Micro Peel:
Papain enzymes – Proteolitic enzymes microexfoliate to promote a softer, smoother skin without irritation
Niacinamide – vitamin B3, strengthens skins immune defence thus reduces sensitivity and irritation, maintains treatment for hyper pigmentation through inhibition of melanin transfer and regulates sebum production
Cammomile – Soothing and calming
Hylauronic acid – Hydrating
Grape seed extract – Antioxidant and strengthening
D-Panethenol –form of pantotenic acid, provides healing and soothing abilities and prevents erythema
Notes:
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PEEL ACCELERATOR
All Skin Types
L-Lactic, Glycolic and L- Mandelic Acid peel to renew, brighten and smooth the skin. 42% Alpha and Aromatic Hydroxy Acid base with a pH of 3.0
Pre Treatment Protocol:
A proper consultation must be performed a minimum of 2 weeks prior to any clinical skin treatment to ensure client is a suitable candidate for the intended procedure
Skin must be prepped for a minimum of two weeks prior Glycolic Cleanser (at least once per day)
Even Blend am and pm (vitamin C may be added if treating stubborn pigmentation). The Skinstitut Even Blend Serum will help to both even out pigment and also aid in the prevention of new pigmentation by working as a tyrosinase inhibitor.
Age Defence SPF 50+ to be used in the morning
Prepare work station
Pre- Procedure Work Station Set Up
Clean Towels Gauze Head Band
Tissues Timer Peel Accelerator
Glass Dish Cleansing Cloths Disposable Gloves
Fresh Water Protective Cap Multi-Active Mist
Age Defence SPF 50 + Repair Balm
Treatment Protocol:
Steps Instructions
1 Cleanse skin with a pea size amount of gentle cleanser on to moist hands and lather over face
to remove makeup (This step can be omitted if not wearing make-up).
2 Cleanse skin with a pea size amount of Glycolic Cleanser using damp gauze and adjust
pressure as needed
3 Rinse with cool water and repeat step 2 to ensure removal of surface debris
4 Dry skin with tissue
5 Apply 1 pump of Peel Accelerator to skin with dry gauze using circular motions to degrease
and prep. Adjust pressure as needed
6 Apply Repair balm over eyebrows, corners of the eyes and lips
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7 Apply 2 pumps of Peel Accelerator to skin with dry gauze using light, sweeping motions
starting at the forehead, sides of face, chin, cheeks, nose and top lip. Up to ¼ tsp Vitamin C
100% may be added to the Peel Accelerator solution at this point to create a more intense
and targeted effect if desired. Leave on for up to five minutes. For an even more intense
peeling effect, Peel Accelerator may be re-applied after five minutes.
8 Remove residue with a pea size amount of Gentle Cleanser and cold compress. Ensure all of
product is removed
9 Apply 1 spritz of Multi-Active Mist to the face, ensuring to cover clients eyes
10 IMPORTANT Follow with half a pea size amount of Repair Balm. Gently press into the skin.
Reapply if needed
11 IMPORTANT Apply liberal amount of Age Defence SPF 50+
Post Treatment Protocol: Home Care Advice:
Skin will be sensitive for 1-3 days post peel
No active products (AHA’s, Retinol, Exfoliants, Vitamin C) can be used for 1-3 days, or until the skin has healed and is no longer sensitive
Healing Products for Recovery Period: Rejuvenate 15, Multi-Active Mist, Multi-Active Oil, Skinstitut Moisturiser, Repair Balm and Age Defence SPF 50+ to be used 1-3 days post peel
Benefits:
Contains L.Lactic and Glycolic Acid L.Mandellic
Provides anti-bacterial support ,excellent for the treatment of acne and acne related symptoms
Restores the lipid barrier of the epidermis and assists in alleviating dry skin conditions
Improves skin colour, tone and texture
Increased hydration
Strengthens and restores skin resilience
Pro Tips:
Cold water only to be used to avoid further irritation and sensitivity
Peel Accelerator can be performed at 2 week intervals, ensuring the skin has healed and there are no signs of adverse skin reactions
Note for a more intense peel the Peel Accelerator may be reapplied after 5 minutes
For best results a course of 3- 6 is recommended at fortnightly intervals
To maintain results, 1 single treatment every 4-6 weeks may be recommended
Key Active Ingredients:
Niacinamide – vitamin B3, strengthens skins immune defence thus reduces sensitivity and irritation, maintains treatment for hyper pigmentation through inhibition of melanin transfer and regulates sebum production
D-Panethenol –form of pantotenic acid, provides healing and soothing abilities and prevents erythema
L.Lactic Acid 20% – Alpha hydroxy acid for a more luminous skin
Glycolic Acid 17% - Alpha hydroxy acid known for its anti-inflammatory properties
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L.Mandelic Acid 5% – Alpha hydroxy acid that is used for its anti-bacterial properties
Canadian Willowherb – a plant extract that has soothing, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial activity and is an excellent free radical scavenger
Witch Hazel Extract – a botanical extract that has potent antioxidant, anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties
Kakadu Plum Extract – powerful antioxidant and free radical scavenger
D-Biotin –form of vitamin H, stimulates cell development and growth of nerve tissue
Notes:
Skinstitut Peel Manual Page 16 of 18
AGELESS PEEL
Aged, Sun Damaged and dull lifeless skin
A medical grade anabolic restructuring treatment containing potent antioxidant and amino acid complex to target visible signs of ageing and sun damage. This revolutionary peel works on a dermal level to encourage normalised cell production resulting in a revitalised, smoother and more even complexion. pH 3.1
Pre Treatment Protocol:
A proper consultation must be performed a minimum of 2 weeks prior to any clinical skin treatment to ensure client is a suitable candidate for the intended procedure
Skin must be prepped for a minimum of two weeks prior with Glycolic Cleanser (at least once per day)
Even Blend Serum to be used am and pm (vitamin C may be added if treating stubborn pigmentation). The Skinstitut Even Blend Serum will help to both even out pigment and also aid in the prevention of new pigmentation by working as a tyrosinase inhibitor.
Age Defence SPF 50+ to be used in the morning.
Retinol or Rejuvenate 15 to be used at night to stimulate retinoic acid cell receptors
Prepare work station
Pre Procedure Work Station Set Up
Clean Towels Gauze Anti-aging Peel
Tissues Timer Peel Accelerator
Glass Dish Cleansing Cloths Disposable Gloves
Fresh Water Protective Cap/Head Band Multi-Active Mist
Age Defence SPF 50 + Repair Balm
Treatment Protocol:
Steps Instructions
1 Cleanse skin with a pea size amount of Gentle Cleanser on to moist hands and lather over face
to remove makeup. (This step can be omitted if not wearing make-up).
2 Cleanse skin with a pea size amount of Glycolic Cleanser using damp gauze and adjust
pressure as needed
3 Rinse with cool water and repeat step 2 to ensure removal of surface debris
4 Dry skin with tissue
5 Apply 1 pump of Peel Accelerator to skin with dry gauze using firm circular motions to
degrease and prep. Adjust pressure as needed
6 Apply Repair balm over eyebrows, corners of the eyes and lips
7 Apply 4 pumps of Ageless Peel to skin with gloved hands
8 Massage firmly into skin for up to 20 minutes or until even erythema. To reduce tackiness,
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simply wet hands as required, then continue to massage firmly.
9 Remove residue with a pea size amount of Gentle Cleanser and cold compress. Ensure all of
product is removed
10 Apply 1 spritz of Multi-Active Mist to the face, ensuring to cover clients eyes
11 IMPORTANT Follow with half a pea size amount of Repair Balm. Gently press onto the skin.
Reapply if needed
12 IMPORTANT Apply liberal amount of Age Defence SPF 50+
Post Treatment Protocol: Home Care Advice:
Skin will be sensitive for 1-3 days post peel
No active products (AHA’s, Retinol, Exfoliants, Vitamin C) can be used for 1-3 days, or until the skin has healed and is no longer sensitive
Healing Products for Recovery Period: Rejuvenating Serum, Skinstitut Moisturiser, Repair Balm and Age Defence SPF 50+ to be used 1-3 days post peel
Benefits:
Contains L.Lactic Acid
Provides anti-bacterial support ,excellent for the treatment of acne and acne related symptoms
Restores the lipid barrier of the epidermis and assists in alleviating dry skin conditions
Improves skin colour, tone and texture
Increased hydration
Strengthens and restores skin resilience Pro Tips:
Cold water only to be used to avoid further irritation and sensitivity
Anti-aging peel can be performed at 4 week intervals, ensuring the skin has healed and there are no signs of adverse skin reactions
For best results a course of 3 - 6 sessions, is recommended
To maintain results, 1 treatment every 4-6 weeks is recommended Key Active Ingredients:
Ceramide Complex - a plant derived mixture of phospholipids that restore the lipid barrier of the stratum corneum, thus provides a balanced moisture content and improves skin condition
Natural SMEC – a natural delivery system, that is non-irritating and absorbs quickly with no greasy after-feel while providing excellent moisturising for the skin
L.Mandelic Acid 7% – Alpha hydroxy acid that is used for its anti-bacterial properties
L.Lactic Acid 15%-Alpha hydroxy acid for a more luminous skin
MDI Complex – inhibits the matrix metalloproteinase enzyme activity that degrades collagen. It protects against UV radiation and other irritants, thus increasing resistance to physical assaults on the skin
Oceagen LS – a collagen of marine origin, similar to type 1 human collagen, it smoothes and softens fine lines and improves moisture levels of the skin
Vit-A-Like 3% – of botanical origin, used as an alternative to retinol without undesirable side effects such as irritation, photo damage, oxidation and instability. It stimulates collagen through fibroblasts and enhances proliferation of keratinocytes, contributing to skin renewal resulting in a smoother, brighter complexion
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