PC Troubleshooting for Non-Geeks
The Do-It-Yourself Computer Repair Manual for Beginners
by Mike Camp
Published by F. Wobst – www.eBook-Publishing.biz
This report is written to provide accurate and authoritative information with regard to the subject matter covered. Although reliable sources of information have been used in gathering material for this eBook, neither the author nor the publisher will accept any liability for the accuracy of its content nor the consequences of any reliance placed upon it. Copyright © 2006 by Mike Camp. All rights reserved. Contents of this report may not be quoted, paraphrased, or otherwise copied in any print or electronic format. For use of original buyer only. For additional copies or permissions please contact the publisher at www.ebook-publishing.biz .
813B-42313
Contents
1. Introduction……………………………………………………………………………3
2. The Software Side of Things………………………………………………………….5
3. The Hardware Side of It………………………………………………….……………8
4. Tools…………………………………………………………………………………11
5. Cautions and Precautions…………………………………………………………….12
6. To Upgrade or Not to Upgrade? That is the Question……………………………….13
7. When Hardware Goes Bad……………………………………………….…………..14
8. Replacing a Power Supply………………………………………………..………….15
9. Replacing or Adding Memory…...…..………………………………………………18
10. Replacing a Motherboard and CPU.…………………………………………………20
11. Installing a New Sound or Video Card………………………………………………25
12. Installing a Hard Drive……………………………………………………………….28
13. Installing a DVD/CDRW Drive……………………………………………………...32
14. Fixing Problems KISS……………………………………………………………….34
15. Software Errors………………………………………………………………………43
16. My Computer Won’t Start, and Other Common Problems.…..……………………..50
17. DSL vs. Cable Modem Comparison…………………………………………………55
18. Helpful Online Resources……………………………………………………………57
19. Books and Magazines………………………………………………………………..58
20. About the Author…………………………………………………………………….60
2
Introduction
Let’s face it, all of us use computers. Either in our work environment, or at home, or
both. And now it’s common to see them on airplanes, restaurants, and even in
automobiles. There are also more computer repair shops than ever before doing billions
of dollars in repair work each year.
I own a repair shop myself, and have owned and operated one for over twelve years. I
have certifications from Microsoft™, HP™ and Xerox™. I belong to the AMD™ system
builders’ organization, and Microsoft’s OEM system builder program. On a daily basis I
deal with the average computer user, which means I work for people just like you. You
are what the industry calls the “end user”, I am what the industry refers to as an OEM,
that is an Original Equipment Manufacturer. At least a dozen times a day I try to give my
customers advice on repairing their own machines and I spare no amount of time in
explaining and writing down the steps they should follow to get the job done. I must
admit that on more than one occasion I get a puzzled look and a question such as: “Why
are you telling me? Don’t you want my business?”
I do want the business, but I also know that almost anyone can repair and upgrade their
own computer, and save a lot of money in the process. My shop charges a reasonably
priced flat fee for all computer work. My prices are far more than reasonable and way
below the average for this field of work. So I have a question too. Why wouldn’t anyone
want to save anywhere from $100 to $400 dollars in labor costs.
3
It’s nothing to find any number of people all around the world repairing their
automobiles. Yet they do not have a degree in engineering, or they haven’t been to a trade
school to study mechanics and for the most part they have no extensive knowledge of the
inner workings of an internal combustion engine. Computers are far less complicated than
an automobile yet they have this mystical property to them that has no doubt been fueled
by the computer industry and computer repair facilities themselves.
This book will tell you in plain English how to transform that sluggish old machine to a
state of the art powerhouse through simple upgrades. It will also explain simple
techniques for troubleshooting and repairing your computer when that fatal day comes
and it just doesn’t start up again. I will tell you how to upgrade - and how to save so
hundreds of dollars by just doing it yourself.
I will go over the most common errors encountered by computer user’s everyday, and I
will tell you how to fix them and exactly what caused them in the first place. You know
how there is always someone that everybody calls when they have trouble with their
computers, the guy or gal that everyone calls a geek. Following the simple information in
this manual will give you more knowledge and know-how than the geeks in your
hometown.
4
The Software Side of Things
The software in your computer is nothing more than the programs that are running on the
computer after the initial start up. To the user, the operating system is your desk top, the
thing you see on your monitor with icons scattered all over it after windows loads. I am
using Windows as the example because it is by far the most common OS, or Operating
System and is still being used in all of its various flavors. When I say flavors I am
referring to the version of windows you are using, such as: Windows™ XP, 2000, ME,
98. Or 95, yes people still use windows 95. In fact I have a vintage IBM™ PC with
windows version 1.0 on it and it still works fine.
When you install a new program, software, on your computer it often refers to the flavors
like this: XP, 2000, NT, ME, or 9X. The 9x meaning any version from Windows from 95
through Windows 98SE.
The other software on your computer are the anti virus programs, office suites,
productivity packages and so on. These are the programs that allow us to interact with the
computer in a meaningful manner, they are what make the computer a useful tool for our
everyday lives. The biggest thing to remember here is that your software has nothing to
do with the mechanical function of your computer.
Anti Virus Programs
In this day and age anyone that use’s a computer should have a good anti virus program
installed and functioning on the machine. With a few hundred new viruses a day being
sent out over the worldwide web it is a foolish mistake to believe that you will not
5
encounter one. There are several brands of anti virus programs out there but I would use
one that has been around for a while. The most notable of these is Norton™, and
McAfee™ but there are many, many more. I suggest asking friends what works best for
them and check out the pros and cons on a few Internet forums before you purchase one.
Because most retailers will not let you return software after is has been opened read the
side panels of the software package before you buy it. This applies to every kind of
software from games to programs. When selecting software, flip the retail box around and
you will find a small side panel with all the information you need. This panel will tell
you exactly what version of windows the product is made for.
Spy Ware Programs
I would also recommend a good anti spy ware program and highly recommend Spyware
Doctor from PCTools™, their web address is www.pctools.com I have personally used
this program thousands of times and it has saved me many hours of labor and heartache.
It is a fact of life in this age of information, that if you are on the Internet, you have spy
ware on your computer. A tell tale sign of spy ware infections is that suddenly your
computer is moving a lot slower or even locking up when you try and access the Internet.
WARNING! Do not download anti spy ware from pop ups that appear on your
computer! Almost 99% of the time these pop ups will lead you to a site that has the full
intention of infecting your computer with much worse than spy ware!
This is important so repeat after me: “I WILL NOT DOWN LOAD SPY WARE
BLOCKERS FROM POP UP ADDS!
6
Productivity Programs
When we say productivity we mean office suites. Most computers some with a small
usable program for composing letters or memos but they leave a lot to be desired when it
comes to actually writing, or composing something meaningful. There are a lot of suites
out there, the most notable are Microsoft Office (features two of the worlds most popular
programs, Word, and Excel), Corel office suite (which features word perfect), and Lotus
also has an office suite. Again, do your research and decide which one is best for you.
Microsoft Office is by far the most common suite out there and has an array of programs
from word processing to spread sheets, and it usually has converters for all the other
major office suite on the market enabling you to import almost any other format of
information. There are also programs dedicated to publishing and creative writing,
mathematics, spreadsheets, databases and just about everything else you could desire.
While on the subject of productivity lets not forget our email programs, after all they are
a vital part of our world today. Microsoft windows come with outlook express, and
Microsoft Office comes with Outlook. Both are equally popular email programs. Many
people prefer to use Netscape as a browser and it has its own email program. Then there
are others that desire to use the email programs offered by popular search sites like
Yahoo and Google and still more that like to use programs like Hot Mail or Juno mail.
7
The Hardware Side of It
The thing you see sitting on the floor under your desk, or sitting on top of your desk with
blinking green and red lights is the computer case. Some people call it a tower and yet
others like to use the word CPU even though the CPU is an entirely different piece of
equipment. Cases come in almost any imaginable size and shape, and any color under the
rainbow. For the most part, they are all roughly rectangle, the cube shape is also
becoming more and more popular because of its small size. Some have see through sides,
some are completely transparent and the multitudes of them are just metal.
The one thing you should consider when purchasing a new case is how easy it is to gain
access to the inner workings of the computer. The easiest use a latching mechanism
instead of screws, the next best use large thumbscrews that do not require a screwdriver
to unscrew. But by and far the majority have at least two screws holding on the side of
the case. A lot of cases offer easy access to the motherboard and components by allowing
the motherboard plate (the thing the motherboard is fastened to) to slide out the back of
the case, or fold out of the board side of the case by loosening a couple screws.
Many of the cases have arrays of lights on the front and sides and many now come with
bright neon colored cooling fan lights making the whole thing look other worldly when
the power is on. My advice is to choose a case that fits your needs, has sturdy back plates
to fastened component cards to, and is solid enough to muffle some of the sound
generated by the computer.
8
To open the average case, first make sure it is unplugged from the wall socket. Also
unplug any cables that are attached such as the mouse, keyboard, modem and video.
Now, facing the front of the computer lay the case on its right side. You can put a towel
under it if you are afraid you might scratch the finish on the case, definitely use a cloth of
some kind if it has a transparent side. Loosen the screws or latch and slide the slide panel
back until it unlocks, and then remove it and sit it out of the way.
Inside the Case
Since your case is lying on its side and you are looking down inside the case, the first
thing you will notice, besides all the wires, is the motherboard. It is a large circuit board
that occupies a large portion of what is now the bottom of your computer case. Seated in
special sockets on the motherboard is the CPU, (the microprocessor), the BIOS, two to
four long sockets for the memory and a collection of auxiliary slots.
The most common slots you see are usually white or blue in color, they are the PCI slots.
All PCI slots are 16 bit slots and are used for modems, NIC cards (Network Interface
Cards). There is usually at least one brown colored slot that sits a little farther back on the
motherboard than the other slots, it is also the closest slot to the power supply. This is an
AGP slot, it is used for AGP graphics adapters (video cards). AGP slots are 32 bit slots
and usually have some kind of mechanism to help secure the video card in place.
Again we are looking down into the case with the front of the case facing our stomach.
The large rectangle piece of metal in the upper right corner of the case, the one with all
the wires coming out of it is the power supply.
9
Usually in close proximity to the power supply is the CPU, or microprocessor.
Sometimes this CPU is located under the power supply and can not even be seen until
you remove the power supply from the case. When you see the CPU you will actually be
looking at the fan and heat sink that is mounted on top of it. The CPU is a small silicon
wafer sitting in a socket under this cooling device.
Near the CPU you will see from two to four long sockets with small latches at each end.
These are the DIMM sockets, or RAM sockets or in plain English this is where the
memory goes. You will notice that there is a small ridge near the center of each of the
memory sockets, this is to ensure that you can only put the memory stick in one way.
Looking down into the case, you will see some rectangle boxes in a housing that faces the
front of the case. These are the various drives installed in your computer, such as DVD,
CD, hard drives and floppy drives.
10
Tools
The tools you need to repair or upgrade you computer can be as simple or technical, as
you want. You can actually repair or upgrade a computer with little more than a couple
different sizes of Philips head screw drivers.
I would recommend having an anti static wristband when you are working with
components, especially memory modules or CPU’s. If you purchase a cheap computer
tool kit, I have seen them as cheap as $7.00 retail, it will come with all the tools you need
to work on your computer.
There are a few more tools out there that the shops use but are not necessary for the home
repair tech. Here are a few examples: a Soyo™ tech aid card, it diagnoses the computer as
it is booting up and is useful when you have a machine that just won’t boot all the way to
windows. There are also power supply tester, hard drive testers and on and on. But none
of these are on the have to have list for the home repairman.
11
Cautions and Precautions
There are a few do’s and don’ts when it comes to computer repair and I will touch on the
main ones here.
1. Always unplug your computer from the wall socket before opening the case or
otherwise working on the components in the computer.
2. Always touch the case or otherwise ground yourself (to discharge any static
charge you may have acquired) before touching any components. Static
electricity is the number one killer of computers in the world. Even a small static
discharge can fry a motherboard, CPU or other vital component.
3. Keep your new parts in their original static free package until you install them.
4. If you are installing software from media that is a copy, (not the original) scan it
with a good anti virus program first.
5. Do not wash your computer with a wet sponge. A damp sponge is all you need to
wipe down your machine.
6. Only used canned air for blowing dust out of components. Air supplied from a
standard compressor usually has some water built up in the air hose and you
risk damaging your computer.
12
To Upgrade or Not to Upgrade? That Is The Question
For me this is not much of a question. I don’t know anyone that couldn’t use a little
upgrading, a little more speed or better sound and graphics. In twenty years, I have never
seen a perfect machine. I have seen a lot of great machines and even a few that were
better than great but all of them can do more with the right upgrades.
If your budget is tight memory is the quickest and cheapest way to get a little more speed
out of your computer. On a megabyte by megabyte comparison, memory modules today
are cheaper than they have ever been in history. Hard drives are inexpensive also. An
extra 80 Gigabytes of disk space can do wonders for a machine that is slowing down
because there just isn’t enough room anymore. Most people do not realize that Windows
needs a lot of space to use as virtual memory and swap files, and many of the most
popular programs are resource hogs when it comes to virtual memory.
13
When Hardware Goes Bad
Every computer owner on the planet will eventually see a piece of hardware fail, after all
a computer is just a machine and machines wear out. There are a dozen moving parts in
your computer, all moving at blistering speeds without the benefit of continual lubricants.
RPM is short for revolutions per minute. Cooling fans are running at least 5500 RPM,
hard drives are spinning at 7200 RPM, some as high as 10,000 RPM. DVD and CDRW
drives operate at varying speeds the least of which is 5400 RPM. As you can see the
computer is running as fast as an INDY race car and it does it continually until the
machine is turned off.
In the following chapters I will show you how to replace all of the major components in
your computer. None of these tasks are difficult, mind bending feats. Just take a deep
breath, relax and follow my instructions and everything will work like new, and you will
save hundreds of dollars in labor charges a computer repair shop would charge you.
14
Replacing a Power Supply
The reasons for replacing a power supply can be that the old one quit working, this is a
very common occurrence after a few years. Another reason might be that you just need
more power, many of the computers you by come with a power supply that is just barely
adequate for the consumption of your machine. If you add a new device or media card it
might be too much for that small supply. I recommend no less than a 450 Watt supply for
today’s demanding peripherals, and a lot of factory machines come with a 320 Watt
supply.
To remove the power supply you will first need to unplug the power cord from the wall,
and from the power supply its self. Next, remove the side panel from the computer case
so you have access to the inside of the computer.
Before you actually remove the power supply you need to unplug the power supply from
all of the devices inside the computer, including the motherboard. If you are not sure
where to reattach the new supply when it is installed I suggest labeling each of the
devices and the corresponding power adapter that is attached to it. You can use a piece of
tape and just number them, ie: put a small piece of tape on the device, and a small piece
on the power adapter that is connected to it, then just put a number on each piece of tape.
The reason for this is simple. When you install the new power supply you can look at the
number you have labeled a device with and then compare that to the number you placed
on a power adapter. All standard power adapters are the same, and they are made to plug
into the same devices no matter what kind of computer it is.
15
The only connector that seems to confuse people is the main power connector that hooks
into the motherboard. The connector on the motherboard is a 20 pin connector, and many
times the connector on the new power supply has 24 connectors. If you find this don’t
sweat it. Look at the connector on the new power supply and you will see that a four pin
block of the connector actually slides off the main connector block as in the figure below.
After the wires are all disconnected form their respective devices you can spin the
computer case around so you are facing the back of the computer. You will see four
screws around the perimeter of the power supply; these are the only thing holding the
power supply in place.
To install the new power supply, just do the reverse of removing one starting with
reattaching the supply with the four screws in the back. After all the wires are attached
16
you can stand the computer back upright and attach the power cord from the supply to the
wall.
If you hit the power button on the front of the computer and nothing happens recheck
your power cord, make sure it is firmly seated in the supply and the wall. If nothing still
happens unplug the power cord and open the case. Check and see if you have a four pin
connector on the motherboard, it will be close to the main 20 pin power connector. Make
sure that you have connected a 4 pin plug to this connection, it will be a different 4 pin
plug than the one you removed from the 24 pin main block.
If you still have nothing make sure you have power to the wall socket or power strip. Still
not sure? E-mail me [email protected]
17
Replacing or Adding Memory
First we will tackle the easier of these two components, the memory. Older systems use
SDRAM and all newer systems, those manufactured with in the last few years use DDR.
DDR RAM is twice as fast as SDRAM. This is because DDR RAM transfers data on both
the rising and falling edge of the clock. SDRAM only transfer data on the rising of the
cycle. So, DDR RAM transfers twice the amount of data per clock cycle and therefore is
referred to as DDR (Double Data Rate).
DDR memory consumes a lot less power than SDRAM. DDR RAM use’s only 2.5V, and
SDRAM use’s 3.3V. Therefore the low power consumption of DDR RAM helps to
reduce the amount of heat that is produced. This helps extend the battery life in portable
devices such as laptop computers, and reduces the overall heat produced by your
computer.
Unplug the power supply and remove the side panel of the computer. Lay the computer
on its side so the front of the machine is facing you. The memory sockets and modules
are located on the edge of the motherboard closest to the front of the computer. On some
machine you might have to remove the power supply or even the DVD and CDRW drives
to see it, this is the case some of the smaller HP computers on the market.
There are usually from 1 to 3 open slots, meaning that there are no memory modules
installed in them. It is a good idea to have all your memory banks filled with DDR or
SDRAM modules that are the same speed. The speed is simply how fast the DDR
transfers data, as an example, PC2100 transfers data at a rate of 2133MB per second. So
18
when you buy memory try and get it all the same speed such as, PC2100, PC2700 and so
on. The modules you purchase will be clearly marked as to what speed they are.
Looking down into the case you will notice that the memory socket each have a small
notch in them, if there is only one of these notches you are using SDRAM, if there is only
one notch you are using DDR RAM. These notches are always off center and prevent you
from installing the new memory module in the wrong way. When you insert the new
memory stick into the socket, the latches on each end of the socket should snap firmly,
latching the memory in the socket.
19
Motherboard Layout
CPU, memory, front panel connectors
Replacing a Motherboard and CPU
Buying a new motherboard can be a simple process but more times than not it is a
frustrating experience. There are literally thousands of boards out there all offering the
same thing. If you’re buying off the Internet just make sure you can return the board if it
doesn’t work out.
20
I would suggest going to a local dealer and asking a few questions. They in return will
probably ask you a few, the most notable being: what are you using the machine for? This
is an important question; after all, if you are a serious game enthusiast you want a board
that will support all the current video adapter configurations and some of the future ones
too. If it’s just a machine for normal home use you can save a lot of money on
motherboard selection. An average user just needs e-mail and some productivity
applications. Sound and video are not on the front of his list for performance.
If it is just a machine for homework, and average everyday use, get one that has most of
the features built into the board. Make sure it has sound, video and LAN on board. Some
even have a dial up modem built in or come with a modem riser that is easily installed
when the board is in the machine.
A game board needs to be more robust with almost nothing built in especially video, and
sound. If you plan on using PCI Express video cards make sure the new board supports
PCI Express other wise you will only have AGP as an option.
If you only want to upgrade the board and use all the old components off your current
machine, make sure you buy a board that supports your CPU. In other words, you can’t
put your AMD Athalon on a Pentium 4 board, the AMD use’s a socket 462 configuration
and the P4 use’s a socket 478 configuration.
With your new board in hand and you adequately grounded, open up your computer,
make sure it is unplugged first. Also unplug everything from the back of the computer,
this includes the mouse, keyboard, monitor, everything.
21
To keep from going crazy while you do this job, remove the power supply, drives, and
any wires that are attached to the motherboard. After everything is removed you should
be looking down into your case at basically just a motherboard with a few components on
it.
Now remove any cards that are installed in the various slots on the board, this will
include video cards, modems, LAN cards, and sound cards, anything that is occupying a
PCI or AGP slot. Now you want to remove the memory from the motherboard, simply
push down on the small latches at each end of the memory sticks and they will pop right
out.
You will also have to remove the CPU. To do this, first remove the fan that sits on top of
it. Some fans are held in place by levers. Little clips that are attached to the bottom of the
CPU socket hold others. For the clip type you will see a small slot on top of the retaining
device, place a small screwdriver in this slot and pry toward the fan see the picture below
for reference.
Here is the latch for the fan.
22
Once the fan is out of the way you will see the CPU its self. No matter what kind of CPU
it is there will be a white or silver lever lying along one side of the CPU socket, simply
lift this lever and then carefully remove the CPU from the socket. When a CPU is
installed or removed, there should be no force involved, these are zero insertion force
sockets. Installing a CPU will be just the reverse of the above-mentioned procedure.
After everything is removed from the motherboard, loosen all of the screws that are
holding it to the case. The motherboard should easily lift out of the case, but you may
have to gently pull it toward you, or the front of the case to free it from the back plate.
When you install the new board, make sure the screw mounts all line up with the new
board’s holes; they usually do because the manufacturers follow a standard. After the
board is seated and lined up correctly you can screw it down and reinstall the CPU and
memory modules.
Before you place any of the other components back on the board I would hook up all of
the front panel wires. These will be a small bundle of wires that go to the front panel of
your computer and they include the power switch, reset switch, speaker, and led lights.
See the picture below.
23
After these wires are attached you can begin reassembling the other components one at a
time, just like you removed them. Hey, this isn’t rocket science and you just saved
yourself hundreds of dollars in labor costs.
CPU installation!
24
Installing a New Sound Card or Video Card
There are many reasons for a better sound system, or a need for more video. This is
especially true for computer game enthusiast. I see it at least once a week; someone
comes in the shop complaining about their new game being choppy, and they just
upgraded their video card. Games today require the video and sound to basically be
married, they have to work together. A new sound card almost always fixes the problem.
Another reason for good sound is that you may use your computer to play music CD’s.
Again an experience that is greatly enhanced by quality sound systems. The same applies
to video cards, or video adapters as they are sometimes called.
Of course it doesn’t do any good to install a state of the art sound card if you have a
couple of clunky old speakers. If you invest the time and money in a new surround sound
card, by all means get some good speakers to go with it.
The operation of installing a sound card is almost identical to installing a video card and
the same basic work is involved. To install a new sound card, or video card, first unplug
the computer and lay it on its side so the front is facing you.. Open the case and you will
see the current sound card installed in one of the 16 bit PCI slots (most often these are
white in color). If you are not sure which card it is, just look at the back of the computer.
It will be the card with all the small speaker jack holes on it. If you have integrated
sound, meaning sound that is built into the motherboard, you do not have to remove
anything. If it is a video card you are changing, it is the one that the monitor plugs into.
25
You will see that the card is held in place by a single screw, remove the screw and lift the
card straight up and out of the computer. Some AGP video cards also require you to flip a
small latch that is located at the end of the card closest to the front of the case.
After your old card is removed your new card will be installed into the open PCI slot if it
is a sound card, or AGP slot if it is a video card. Refer to the picture of the motherboard
layout found earlier in this text for the location of the appropriate slot.
After seating the new card into the appropriate slot, replace the screw that will hold the
new card in place. Put the side back on the case and reattach the power cable and any
other cables you removed.
After everything is back together and the computer is started, wait for the Windows™
desktop to load. During this process windows will probably see the new sound or video
card. When Windows sees the new card a, ‘found new hardware window’ will open
telling you it wants to look for a driver for the new device. Usually the default mode for
26
this device found window is set to automatically look for the driver. Change this to the
other option that is offered by clicking on the appropriate box. Now click “next”.
At this time place the CDROM that came with your new video or sound card into either
the DVD or CDRW drive and close the drive door. In the new box that is displayed on
your computer screen click the box that says “include the CDROM drive in the search”
and then click next.
This process will take a little while but if you are patient, when it’s through your new
device will be installed and ready to go.
27
Installing a Hard Drive
In the early 1980’s a few megabytes of hard drive space was a lot, by the late 1980’s 3.25
inch format hard drives were beginning to appear in personal computers. Today, hard
drives hold 300+ gigabytes of data and run at speeds many times faster than the old
drives used to. Just to clear things up, a megabyte is equal to 1024KB, and a gigabyte is
equal to 1024MB. Megabyte is denoted as MB and gigabyte is denoted as GB and
kilobyte is KB.
So how much hard drive do you need? In other words how many gigabytes is enough?
That’s entirely up to you, if you download a lot of music or video files, then the bigger
the better. Additionally if you are a game enthusiast more hard drive is a good thing. The
bottom line is the average user only needs a small drive; say around 40 to 80 gigabytes,
for the high end user, a 250 gigabyte should be plenty. No matter which size you choose,
you can always add a second hard drive later.
To install your new hard drive, the first thing you always do before working on your
computer is unplug the power cord from the wall socket. Now lay the case on its side
with the front facing you, and remove the side panel.
Inside the front of the case you will see all of your drives arranged one above the other.
The hard drive and the DVD/CDRW drives are attached to the motherboard with a 40 pin
ribbon cable. Your hard drive will be a plain metal rectangle about 1 inch thick. After you
locate the hard drive you will notice the ribbon cable attached to the back of it. If you are
adding the new drive as a second drive you will have to set it as a slave drive before you
28
install it. A label on the front of the drive shows you where to pin out. To do this move
the jumper located on the back of the drive to the pins marked ‘SL’. If it is a new drive
and is replacing an old drive it needs to be set as a master marked on the drive as ‘MA’.
See the picture below for a view of the jumper.
The install guides that come with your new drive are great, they are clear and concise and
you would do well to read them and follow the directions given.
If this is going to be an additional drive and is set as a slave, it will need to be positioned
on the ribbon cable. A typical ribbon cable has three connectors on it. 2 of them are close
to each other and 1 is farther away. The connector that is farthest from the other two
connectors hooks into the motherboard, the master drive hooks into the other end and the
slave hooks into the middle connector. Please take a look at this picture for a better
understanding.
Master slave motherboard
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After you set the jumper to the correct setting you can install the drive in an empty drive
bay and secure it with the screws provided. Just look at the other drives for an idea of
how it should be installed. Once secured in the bay you can hook up the ribbon cable, a
rule of thumb for hooking up the ribbon cable to any drive is that the red side of the cable
always points toward the power connector on the drive. Every ribbon cable has one red
cable, this is pin one and it is always closest to the power connector when installed on a
drive.
After your drive is installed, you will need to have the installation disk that came with the
drive. When you power on the computer, insert the drive disk into the CDRW or DVD
drive. Your computer will boot to this disk and a menu will appear on your screen. From
this menu you want to choose the option that says ‘easy drive installation.’
After you make this selection your computer will show you another menu that lists all the
drives in your computer. Simply select the new drive you just installed and choose next.
This process will format your hard drive and make it available for your use as a storage
device.
If this is going to be a master drive then you will have to install an operating system on
the drive. To do this, power on the computer and insert your Windows system disk, it’s a
CDROM disk and will be labeled windows XP, window 98 etc. Your computer will boot
to the system disk and all you do is follow the screen prompts to install the operating
system.
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If the drive is just a slave there is nothing more to do and the drive can be used as storage.
To see if the drive is installed correctly as a slave, at the windows desktop, (1) open my
computer by double clicking on that icon. If the drive is installed it will show up in my
computer and it will already have a drive letter assigned to it.
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Installing a DVD/CDRW Drive
Installing a DVD or CDRW drive is very similar to installing a hard drive, the only
difference is that you do not have to install drivers for it and you can not format the drive
since it use’s removable media. One thing to remember is that a DVD drive will also play
CD’s so if you have a choice I would suggest installing a DVD rather than a plain old
CDROM drive.
On the front of your case there are usually one or two extra expansion slots. These slots
are covered by plastic plates made to look like the rest of your computer in color and
shape. The plates pop out giving you access to another drive bay. If your computer has no
extra expansion slots then the only way to install a DVD drive is to replace your current
media drive. This is actually a very practical solution, there are many drives out there that
serve both as DVD, DVDR (DVD recorders) and CDRW drives. They are called combo
drives and they save resources and space.
To install a new media drive, unplug the power from the computer. Then open the case.
To do this you will need to open both sides of the computer because hard drives and
media drives are held in place by 4 screws, 2 on each side of the drive. After it is open,
lay the case on its side with the front facing you.
Locate the drive you want to replace, or find the extra drive bay you are going to use. If
you are replacing a drive, remove the 4 screws, unplug the ribbon cable and power cable.
If the drive has a sound cable remove it also (it’s a small connector with a red and black
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wire that goes to your sound card or motherboard). Remove the old drive. The new drive
will slide into the computer from the front.
Note the position of the master salve jumper on the back of the old drive and set the new
drive to match it. This drive will be either a master or slave. If it is a second media drive
then it needs to be set as a slave.
Again, you do not need to install drivers for this DVD/CDRW drive. Windows has all the
drivers it needs to make the device operate efficiently. If it is a DVD drive, or a CDRW
drive it will come with an application disk for watching movies or recording information
(this is called burning). By all means after Windows starts, install these applications. The
most popular of these are Sonic, Nero, and WinDVD.
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Fixing Problems - KISS
The following chapters are what this book is really all about, fixing your own computer
and saving a bundle! We will go over the most common problems encountered by
computers users all over the world, and we will tell you how to trouble shoot those
problems in the most efficient and time saving manner. This is the same thing any
repairman will do when he fixes your computer in the shop.
KISS. This is what I tell everyone interested in trying to find out exactly what is wrong
with their defunct machine. KISS stands for Keep It Simple Stupid. In other words, if
your computer suddenly won’t turn on, look for the cause of the problem starting at the
power outlet on the wall. If the speakers suddenly stop working make sure they are still
plugged into the right jack on the sound card. Keep it simple!
I can’t begin to tell you how many times I have made a house call, crawled under the
desk and plugged in a speaker cable. So the customer paid me $65.00 to plug his speakers
in. Just remember, over time, things somehow become accidentally unplugged, or
loosened. Money is far too hard to come by to waste it paying someone to do something
you can do yourself.
My Computer Won’t Start
1. Push, or poke at the on/off switch. Sometimes they get dirty or even stop working.
2. Check to see if it the computer is plugged in at the wall socket or the surge protector
(if you have one), and the back of the computer.
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3. Plug something else in the wall outlet to see if there is power there.
4. Check the plugs to see if they are bent, or not making good contact in the sockets.
5. Does the power supply come on? If you’re not sure, make sure the fan on the back of
the power supply is turning.
6. Listen to the computer. It might be on and the trouble is with the monitor.
7. If the computer is on but the screen is blank, check to see if the monitor is turned on
and all plugs are securely plugged in.
8. If all is on, check the settings on the monitor like the contrast or brightness.
Beep Codes
If the computer doesn’t start, was there an audible beep or series of beeps? These are
called beep codes, they are generated by the BIOS, and they let the computer user know
what might not be working if the computer fails to start. Below is a list of beep codes for
the major BIOS manufacturers and they will help you diagnose what is wrong with your
machine if it just won’t start.
Below are the AMI BIOS Beep codes that can occur. However, because of the wide
variety of different computer manufacturers with this BIOS, the beep codes may vary.
Beep Code
1 short DRAM refresh failure
2 short Parity circuit failure
3 short Base 64K RAM failure
4 short System timer failure
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5 short Process failure
6 short Keyboard controller Gate A20 error
7 short Virtual mode exception error
8 short Display memory Read/Write test failure
9 short ROM BIOS checksum failure
10 short CMOS shutdown Read/Write error
11 short Cache Memory error
1 long, 3 short Conventional/Extended memory failure
1 long, 8 short Display/Retrace test failed
Below is a list of Award BIOS Beep codes that can occur. However, because of the wide
variety of different computer manufacturers with this BIOS, the beep codes may vary.
Beep Code Description
1 long, 2
short
Indicates a video error has occurred and the BIOS cannot initialize the video
screen to display any additional information
Any other RAM problem.
Below are IBM BIOS Beep codes that can occur. There are many varieties that ship with
this BIOS so the beep codes may vary.
Beep Code Description
No Beeps No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
1 Short Beep Normal POST, computer is ok.
2 Short Beep POST error, review screen for error code.
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Continuous Beep No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
Repeating Short Beep No Power, Loose Card, or Short.
One Long and one Short Beep Motherboard issue.
One Long and Two Short Beeps Video (Mono/CGA Display Circuitry) issue.
One Long and Three Short Beeps. Video (EGA) Display Circuitry.
Three Long Beeps Keyboard / Keyboard card error.
One Beep, Blank or Incorrect Display Video Display Circuitry.
Below are the beep codes for PHOENIX BIOS Q3.07 OR 4.X
Beep Code Description
1-1-1-3 Verify Real Mode.
1-1-2-1 Get CPU type.
1-1-2-3 Initialize system hardware.
1-1-3-1 Initialize chipset registers with initial POST values.
1-1-3-2 Set in POST flag.
1-1-3-3 Initialize CPU registers.
1-1-4-1 Initialize cache to initial POST values.
1-1-4-3 Initialize I/O.
1-2-1-1 Initialize Power Management.
1-2-1-2 Load alternate registers with initial POST values.
1-2-1-3 Jump to UserPatch0.
1-2-2-1 Initialize keyboard controller.
1-2-2-3 BIOS ROM checksum.
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1-2-3-1 8254 timer initialization.
1-2-3-3 8237 DMA controller initialization.
1-2-4-1 Reset Programmable Interrupt Controller.
1-3-1-1 Test DRAM refresh.
1-3-1-3 Test 8742 Keyboard Controller.
1-3-2-1 Set ES segment to register to 4 GB.
1-3-3-1 28 Autosize DRAM.
1-3-3-3 Clear 512K base RAM.
1-3-4-1 Test 512 base address lines.
1-3-4-3 Test 512K base memory.
1-4-1-3 Test CPU bus-clock frequency.
1-4-2-4 Reinitialize the chipset.
1-4-3-1 Shadow system BIOS ROM.
1-4-3-2 Reinitialize the cache.
1-4-3-3 Autosize cache.
1-4-4-1 Configure advanced chipset registers.
1-4-4-2 Load alternate registers with CMOS values.
2-1-1-1 Set Initial CPU speed.
2-1-1-3 Initialize interrupt vectors.
2-1-2-1 Initialize BIOS interrupts.
2-1-2-3 Check ROM copyright notice.
2-1-2-4 Initialize manager for PCI Options ROMs.
2-1-3-1 Check video configuration against CMOS.
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2-1-3-2 Initialize PCI bus and devices.
2-1-3-3 Initialize all video adapters in system.
2-1-4-1 Shadow video BIOS ROM.
2-1-4-3 Display copyright notice.
2-2-1-1 Display CPU type and speed.
2-2-1-3 Test keyboard.
2-2-2-1 Set key click if enabled.
2-2-2-3 56 Enable keyboard.
2-2-3-1 Test for unexpected interrupts.
2-2-3-3 Display prompt "Press F2 to enter SETUP".
2-2-4-1 Test RAM between 512 and 640k.
2-3-1-1 Test expanded memory.
2-3-1-3 Test extended memory address lines.
2-3-2-1 Jump to UserPatch1.
2-3-2-3 Configure advanced cache registers.
2-3-3-1 Enable external and CPU caches.
2-3-3-3 Display external cache size.
2-3-4-1 Display shadow message.
2-3-4-3 Display non-disposable segments.
2-4-1-1 Display error messages.
2-4-1-3 Check for configuration errors.
2-4-2-1 Test real-time clock.
2-4-2-3 Check for keyboard errors
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2-4-4-1 Set up hardware interrupts vectors.
2-4-4-3 Test coprocessor if present.
3-1-1-1 Disable onboard I/O ports.
3-1-1-3 Detect and install external RS232 ports.
3-1-2-1 Detect and install external parallel ports.
3-1-2-3 Re-initialize onboard I/O ports.
3-1-3-1 Initialize BIOS Data Area.
3-1-3-3 Initialize Extended BIOS Data Area.
3-1-4-1 Initialize floppy controller.
3-2-1-1 Initialize hard-disk controller.
3-2-1-2 Initialize local-bus hard-disk controller.
3-2-1-3 Jump to UserPatch2.
3-2-2-1 Disable A20 address line.
3-2-2-3 Clear huge ES segment register.
3-2-3-1 Search for option ROMs.
3-2-3-3 Shadow option ROMs.
3-2-4-1 Set up Power Management.
3-2-4-3 Enable hardware interrupts.
3-3-1-1 Set time of day.
3-3-1-3 Check key lock.
3-3-3-1 Erase F2 prompt.
3-3-3-3 Scan for F2 key stroke.
3-3-4-1 Enter SETUP.
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3-3-4-3 Clear in-POST flag.
3-4-1-1 Check for errors
3-4-1-3 POST done--prepare to boot operating system.
3-4-2-1 One beep.
3-4-2-3 Check password (optional).
3-4-3-1 Clear global descriptor table.
3-4-4-1 Clear parity checkers.
3-4-4-3 Clear screen (optional).
3-4-4-4 Check virus and backup reminders.
4-1-1-1 Try to boot with INT 19.
4-2-1-1 Interrupt handler error.
4-2-1-3 Unknown interrupt error.
4-2-2-1 Pending interrupt error.
4-2-2-3 Initialize option ROM error.
4-2-3-1 Shutdown error.
4-2-3-3 Extended Block Move.
4-2-4-1 Shutdown 10 error.
4-3-1-3 Initialize the chipset.
4-3-1-4 Initialize refresh counter.
4-3-2-1 Check for Forced Flash.
4-3-2-2 Check HW status of ROM.
4-3-2-3 BIOS ROM is OK.
4-3-2-4 Do a complete RAM test.
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4-3-3-1 Do OEM initialization.
4-3-3-2 Initialize interrupt controller.
4-3-3-3 Read in bootstrap code.
4-3-3-4 Initialize all vectors.
4-3-4-1 Boot the Flash program.
4-3-4-2 Initialize the boot device.
4-3-4-3 Boot code was read OK.
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Software Errors
This is an endless topic in its self, endless because as long as they make new software
there will be new errors. There are even a few new ones that come up from time to time
on operating systems that are many years old and have been used extensively by millions
of people. But don’t give up when you see one of these demons appear, there has been
enough data compiled on most of the errors that a fix is quite possible.
I will try and list the most common of these errors by starting with the most dreaded of
them. It is commonly known as the Blue Screen Of Death, and is technically a protection
fault error of some type. The list is quite long but I believe you can find almost any of the
more common blue screen messages here.
The Blue Screen of Death
The blue screen of death (BSOD) is the Windows general protection fault, or GPF error.
People call it this because what they see when it is activated is an image of white text on
a blue background. The BSOD is a screen that is generated by the operating system when
it has suddenly halted with an error. When you see this screen, the system locks up, and
must be rebooted. Many times the blue screen includes some hexadecimal values from a
core dump, and they can potentially be used to determine what caused the crash in the
first place.
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The blue screen of death is not limited to novice users, it can happen to anyone at
anytime. At the Comdex trade show, Bill Gates, the Microsoft Chairman, encountered the
blue screen while he was demonstrating Windows 98.
Some common STOP messages and what to do about them:
0x0000000A IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL When you see this error, you can
bet it is a bad device driver. Press the f8 key on boot up until you see the boot option
screen then use the last known good configuration. If you get to the Windows desktop,
get rid of this driver. If it is critical that you have the driver, contact the vendor for an
updated driver. to avoid seeing errors like this one, before you add any new drivers, make
sure to run RDISK and at least update the information.
0x00000019 BAD_POOL_HEADER This is a rare one, and if you can make it
appear again, retrace all the steps it took to get there and last thing you did is the cause.
To recover press the f8 key on boot up until you see the boot option screen then use the
last known good configuration.
0x0000001E KMODE_EXCEPTION_NOT_HANDLED If you are running
outdated drivers, or having some type of hardware problem it will cause this error. If you
are sure that you haven’t recently changed drivers, then I suggest that you reseat the
CPU(s), the memory, and any other chips that may have crept out of their sockets.
Believe it or not, this usually works.
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0x00000024 NTFS_FILE_SYSTEM When you see this error try and get booted far
enough to run CHKDSK /F! But since this error can keep you from booting far enough
into the system to run chkdsk, the only way out is to install your operating system again.
Make sure that you install the new system to the same drive, but in another directory. The
setup CHKDSK will usually clean everything up and get things back to normal. After it's
done, change the BOOT.INI to point to the original system and reboot. If everything
works great after you reboot, delete the one you just installed and clean out the
BOOT.INI.
0x00000051 REGISTRY_ERROR Press the f8 key on boot up until you see the
boot option screen then use the last known good configuration.
0x00000077 KERNEL_STACK_INPAGE_ERROR Probably a bad L2 Cache,
or a defective CPU, it could also be defective SMP hardware, or maybe you just need to
reseat the CPU. You could also have a bad SIMM/DIMM (memory stick). If it is
0xC000009C and 0xC000016A you could have a failing hard drive. Try to get back in
and run CHKDSK /F. if it is 0xC0000185 then you should check the termination on the
SCSI bus and check the IRQ' controllers. If you are using SCSI, the busses are terminated
at each "End".
Single drive Terminate controller and drive.
Internal drives only Terminate controller and only the last drive on the bus.
External drives only Terminate controller and only the last drive on the bus.
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Internal and External
drives
Terminate last internal drive and last external drive. Do not
terminate controller!
0x0000007A KERNEL_DATA_INPAGE_ ERROR See the information above
for KERNEL_STACK_INPAGE_ERROR
0x0000007B INACCESSIBLE_BOOT_DEVICE This means that it can't find
the boot partition. Here are some possible causes.
Did not find correct controller during setup.
Make sure that it is detecting the
controller during setup, you may need a
driver disk to do this.
During Setup, detected wrong controller or
did not detect all the controllers.
Check all of the controllers, making sure
that they are detected during setup, you
will need a driver disk. Or diag card.
System reboots after normal activity, it dies.
A virus has probably infected the boot
sector. Boot with a floppy disk and run
anti-virus software.
System reboots after normal activity, and then
it dies.
The Boot sector is probably corrupt. Use
your setup disk and select repair. Fix the
boot sector when prompted to do so.
0x0000007F UNEXPECTED_KERNEL_MODE_TRAP Using SIMMs and
DIMMs of different speeds can cause this. Make sure your BIOS is reporting the correct
46
amount of memory and also displays the correct processor speed. This can also be caused
by bad connections, reseat the CPU/the memory etc. the motherboard gets hot and
expands, and when the machine is off it cools back down. This expansion and contraction
can cause chips to creep out of their sockets.
0x00000080 NMI_HARDWARE_FAILURE This error can be caused if you use
non-parity memory in a parity based system. It can also be caused when you Mix
parity/non-parity memory, or use bad SIMMs, or it could be a bad L2 cache.
Here are some ways to avoid seeing too many general protection
faults.
If you are seeing GPF error messages on a regular basis I recommend that you do the
following to help resolve the issue.
1. Remove all TSRs
Disable or unload any TSRs, or any programs that are running, before you run the
program that caused the GPF.
2. Delete all program temporary files
When you install a program it first installs some temporary files and many times they
remain on the hard disk until you physically remove them. So, delete all temporary
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files that may still be residing on the hard disk drive from currently or previously
running programs. Just go to accessories, system tools, and choose ‘disk clean up’.
3. Run Scandisk and Defrag
Try to run scandisk and defrag on the hard disk drive. Your hard disk drive may have
a problem that is causing the swap file or data files to become corrupt or invalid.
4. Make sure your computer has more than 200 MB available
If your computer is running low on hard disk space windows just won’t function
correctly, it need lots of free space for swap files. If there isn’t enough space it will
cause programs to be swapped between your system memory and the hard drive more
frequently. If this happens you are very likely to see a GPF occur.
5. Recently installed software or hardware
If you are having GPF problems and recently installed new software or hardware, try
to uninstall, or reinstall that software or hardware to make sure it is not causing your
problem.
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6. Update your BIOS.
Sometimes you can flash your bios with a new update and solve many GPF problems.
7. Disable Power Management and screen savers
If GPFs are occurring when you are away from the computer, or when the computer
has been inactive for a while, attempt to disable power management and screen
savers.
8. Operating System
If Windows or an overwritten Windows related file is the culprit that caused a
General Protection fault, try to reinstall your operating system. Most commonly the
General Protection Fault will involve Explorer and KRNL386.EXE.
9. Bad memory or other bad hardware
Many times bad memory is the primary cause for random GPFs. There are some
programs out there that will test your computer memory from a floppy boot disk. One
such program is “Check It”, a great resource to check your entire motherboard and
components.
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My Computer Won’t Start and Other Common Problems
Here are a few fixes for the most common problems encountered.
1. My Computer Won’t Start
Push, the on/off switch several times. Sometimes the switch gets dirty or just worn out.
Check to see if it the computer is plugged in. if you are using a surge protector, try
plugging the computer directly into the wall. And make sure the power cord is plugged
into the computer it’s self.
Plug a lamp into the wall socket to see if there is power there.
Check the plugs on the cord to see if they are bent and not making good contact in the
sockets.
Listen to the computer. Maybe it is on, and the trouble is really with the monitor.
If the computer is on but the screen is black, make sure the monitor is turned on. If it is
on, check the settings on the monitor such as contrast and brightness.
2. My Printer Won’t Print
Is the printer actually on? If it is, try turning it off for about 30 seconds then turn it back
on.
Make sure all the ac cables are plugged in from the wall to the printer. Also inspect the
parallel or USB cable from the computer to the printer. Make sure all the cables are
firmly seated.
Is there paper in the printer? Is the paper pushed completely into the paper tray and
feeding properly?
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Are there any papers jammed in the printer? Are the ink cartridges empty?
If everything checks out, turn the printer off and shut down the computer. Then re-boot
the computer and turn on the printer.
To check the operation of the printer, click "Start" then "Settings" then "Printers". Click
on your printer and make sure that it is the Default Printer. In XP, click “start’ then
"Control Panel" then "Printers and Faxes".
Check the Printer Settings tab and make sure that there are not already some printing jobs
in progress. If there are, just cancel the jobs and try to print again.
3. Scanner Won’t Work
Just treat it as a printer and do the same things that applied to the printer that wouldn’t
print. Check plugs and cords, then test communications, and drivers.
4. Mouse Is Acting Erratic
Turn the mouse over, there is a round object with arrows on it. Turn the object in the
direction of the arrows and remove the ball that is inside the mouse. Wash the ball with
soap and water and dry it well. Inside the mouse, you will see 3 rollers. They probably
have dirt built up on them. Scrap it off with a pencil eraser, so that the rollers are clean.
Put the ball back in and replace the cover.
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6. Mouse Stops Working
If it is a PS2 mouse, shut down the computer. Then unplug the mouse and plug it back in.
Restart the computer and see if it works now. If it is a USB mouse you can unplug it with
out shutting down the computer.
If the mouse stopped working after you recently installed or re-installed hardware, you
may have an IRQ conflict.
7. The Keyboard Isn’t Working
Shut down your computer. Then unplug the keyboard and plug it back in. Restart the
computer.
Try blowing the keypad out with a can of air, sometimes bits of dirt or paper get under
the keys and screw things up.
8. My Computer Takes Forever to Start
Click "Start", then "Run". In the "Open" field type "msconfig" and click "OK".
A config utility will open. It will have "Tabs" at the top. Click the one that reads
"Startup". This will show you a list of programs that run when you start Windows. They
will have check marks in the boxes to their left. You do not want all of them to start.
Remove all the check marks (by clicking on them). Do not remove the check marks for:
"SystemTray" , "ScanRegistry", "LoadPowerProfile" or "Task Monitor." Also leave a
check mark in anything that has the name of, or abbreviation of, your antivirus program
or anything that looks like it might apply to "Norton™" or “McAfee™” products.
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Click "OK" at the bottom and you will be asked if you want to re-start your computer.
Click yes. If, in the future, you notice things that you are used to loading when you boot
up, but aren't and that you want to load, go back and check their boxes
9. My Computer Won’t Shut Off
Go through everything that was described in “MYCOMPUTER TAKES FOREVER".
This will minimize the number of programs that Windows has to close before shutting
down. Click "Start" then "Run" In open, type "msconfig." When the System
Configuration Utility appears, click "Advanced." Put a check mark in "Disable Fast
Shutdown. That usually fixes it.
Tid Bits
Speed up that machine!
The most obvious way to speed up a computer would be to replace the CPU with a faster
one. This is by far the most efficient way to increase computer speed, but it is also the
most expensive. Before you spend hundreds of dollars on a new CPU, you should first
make sure that your current hardware configuration is used efficiently. Most modern
computer are very complex machines, and Windows is a very complex piece of software,
it usually takes some tweaking to get all the performance out of your hardware. On most
Windows PCs, there are at least 33 processes running at any time. Since most of these
programs are invisible to the user, it is not very easy to know exactly what your computer
is doing most of the time.
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Memory and Page File Usage:
Running out of physical memory or RAM is another common reason for performance
problems today. Many people do not know it, but the use of long file names is a real
culprit. If you create a file and then save it without giving it a name, Windows will
probably use the whole first sentence as the name, sometimes 20 or 30 characters long.
Running out of RAM can cause severe stability problems and even crash your computer.
Try to monitor your memory usage and free up some RAM as soon as memory usage
exceeds 70 or 80%.
Applications running in the background:
If you have installed shareware, freeware, plugins, components, and other files, you
probably have a lot of programs running in the background. These programs are almost
always invisible, but they still consume valuable resources and make start-ups take longer
than necessary.
Run disk clean up from the “start, “accessories”, “system tools”. This program looks for
cache files and temp files and cleans your system out. I recommend it about twice a
week. Also go into the control panel and open Internet options. Delete the off line files,
empty the cookies, and clear the history. All these things will help your computer run and
start faster.
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DSL vs. Cable Modem Comparison
In terms of theoretical peak raw performance, cable modem generally wins the speed
battle over DSL. Cable technology can, in theory, achieve networking speeds of
approximately 30 Mbps (using a 100 Mbps network interface card), whereas most
forms of DSL cannot reach 10 Mbps. (VDSL is one variant of DSL that matches
cable's performance, but it is not generally available.)
Both cable modem and DSL performance vary from one minute to the next depending
on the pattern of use and traffic congestion on the Internet. This means that both
services will rarely -- if ever -- reach peak performance.
Both cable and DSL service providers have commonly employed the controversial
practice of bandwidth caps for their home customers. Bandwidth caps place an artificial
limit on the maximum speed a customer can achieve by monitoring their current usage
and throttling network packets if necessary.
DSL services typically offered today typically range in performance from 128 kbps to
1.544 Mbps. It can be difficult to pin down precise speed numbers for DSL because
of the many variations in equipment. DSL is also a distance-sensitive technology, and
that complicates the performance picture even further...
Cable Speed
Cable service providers usually don't quote absolute performance numbers like the DSL
vendors because of the differences in dedicated versus shared bandwidth.
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Congratulations now you’re a geek too. If you retain a little of what’s in this short
help guide you will have your friends asking you for help, and behind your back
they will be calling you a geek. But that’s not really a bad thing!
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Helpful Online Resources
If you run into problems that you just can’t fix or your computer starts doing things out of
the ordinary the Internet is the best place to look for your answer.
Personally I just bring up Yahoo, Google or some other search engine and do a search on
exactly what I am looking for. Let’s not forget that the manufacturers of almost every
piece of equipment in your computer, including the software have web sites with volumes
of FAQ’s (frequently asked questions) and general all around support for their products.
Here are a few of the best sites:
www.microsoft.com - Having windows problems? This is the ultimate place to go, they
have seen and answered almost every imaginable problem on the planet.
www.selfhelpforums.com - Here is a place where people just like you have posted their
computer problems and they always get ton’s of answers and fast fixes.
www.symantec.com - When you are sure that you have a virus, because things just
suddenly start happening on your computer (like the desktop is rearranging itself) do a
search Norton’s knowledge base or viruses.
www.tigerdirect.com - These guys have a help section also, and they are a good place for
replacement parts and hard to find items.
www.driversguide.com - If you need the drivers for anything at all this is the place to go!
You do have to register but it’s free! This is a great resource for any computer user.
www.pctools.com - You can find help for a lot of problems on this site, and links to other
great sites. These guys sell the best anti-spyware product on the planet!
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Books and Magazines
Any repair tech worth his salt will have a small library of manuals books and magazines
in his arsenal of tools! No matter how many years you have worked in the computer
industry no one knows it all! I will list the magazines I read most often, sometimes there
is only one article in the whole magazine I really want to read but it might be the answer
to a problem! The books I recommend are just a few of the tens of thousands currently in
print.
Magazines:
PC Today: A great magazine covering all the latest trends and answering some tough
questions, such as “how much speed is enough”?
Computer Shopper: This magazine will tell you what’s out there commercially and the
draw back and benefits for each of the components listed!
PC Magazine: Another all time favorite, lots of info on almost every aspect of
computing!
Maximum PC: I really love this one! Many times you can get a CD-ROM packed with
great tools and utilities plus some sample games!
Books:
Upgrading and repairing PC’s by Scott Mueller: This is the premier book and is used in
many university classes on the subject of computer repair!
Upgrading and repairing computers for dummies: This is one of the dummy series that
cover everything computers!
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Bigalows: This is a repair pocket manual that keeps everything simple. It covers
everything from beep codes to complete overhauls!
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About the Author
Long before going to college or getting any certificates the author was building IC chips
with DIP Sockets and a few resistors, DOS was the best operating system on the market
and there weren’t any hard drives (for home users). Michael Camp has been involved in
computer repair since the late 1980’s. He has owned and operated a few repair facilities
including a mobile repair shop. Mike also installs and services state of the art surveillance
systems for local businesses.
In 1998, feeling the need for a formal education and a piece of paper that says he knows
what he’s doing, Michael attended the University of Alaska Fairbanks studying computer
science, hardware and software troubleshooting, and computer office information
systems.
Still not enough in today’s demanding world the Author studied at home and was
certified by Microsoft, HP, and Xerox. Mike currently owns and operates a computer
sales and service store in Chugiak, Alaska. The author also travels extensively through
out the state of Alaska as an on-call IT technician for a large company based in Missouri.
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