8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
1/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
2/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
3/105
Tomoko
Nakamichi
Having
served many years
as a
professor
at Bunka Fashion
College, Tomoko
Nakamichi
currently delivers lectures
and
holds
courses on
paffern
making in her native
Japan
and
internationally.
This
book brings
together the results
of the
research
on
garment
patterns
she has
carried out to help
instruct
her students.
She also enjoys
creating the ball-jointed
fashion
dolls that
appear iñ the
pages
of this book.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
4/105
PATTERNMACIC
Tomoko
Nakamichi
Laurence
ing
Publishing
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
5/105
Pattern
Making
Cut and
oin
flat
pieces
f
fabric
to assemble nto a
three-dimensional
garment.
Take the
pieces
of
a three-dimensional
garment
apart
and
flatten
them, to
get
individual pattern pieces.
The relationship
between the flat
pattern pieces
and the
three-dimensional structure
of the
garment
never
changes.
You can create a
garment
by cutting, moving and
reassembling he
pieces
of a
pattern,
just
like
the
pieces
of. a
pazzle.
Use your original designs to make new patterns.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
6/105
Contents
P
a
rt
1
Creating
orm
through
nspiration
Using
his
book
Fundamentals
Accents
(deppari)
Gathered
hole
Crater
The drop
hole
(otoshiana)
Lumps
and bumps
(dekoboko)
Thedressorm used
n hisbook
sbased
n he standard
unka-style
loper
block)
or an adult apanese
emale
See ages 8-'102or moredetails
All
patternsare
or a
size
lapanese
dult
emale
bust
83cm,
waist 64cm,
centreback
ength38cm)
The
posiüon
f
the cutting ndopening
ut
ines, nd he amount
o be
opened ut, may
varyaccordingo
garment
ize
Whenusing half-scale
ody orm,
educeo
halfall ull-sized
easurements
nddevelophe
rtern
PIateS
13
14'15
'1.7
L6.1.7
1,8
1.9
Instructions
27
20
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
7/105
.¿:ffi
Part
2
Making
Patterns
for
haute
couture
garments
Plates
53
Instructtons
/1
Draped
design
The twist
(nejiri)
Hide
and
seek
(kal
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
8/105
usitrg his
book
At the beginning of this
book
(page
7) I
explained
about
the
relationship
berween the three-dimensional structure
of a
garment
and flat pattern pieces.
A major
objective
when
making garments for
women
is not
only that they fit
properly but
that they also look attractive.
For this
reason, garment
design will never cease o
exist
and
provide
endless enjoyment. I hope
the
pattern-making
method I introduce
here is of use to you in
turning an
image into
a
silhouette or design detail,
and that
you
learn from the ideas in
this
book and
find
new methods that work for
you.
The pattern drafting and manipulation for the design of garments in this book are based on the Bunka-style sloper
(block)
for
adult women
(Japanese
M'
size: bust 83cm, waist
64cm, centre back length 38cm)
and a
half-scale
dress
orm
for the three-dimensional pattern
manipulation. All
the measurements
on this dress orm are
half
that
of a
full-sized
dress orm,
its surface area is scaled down
to a
quarter
and its volume
to one-eighth. Using a half-
scaledress orm helps to
understand the
overall balance and
look
of
a
garment.
As
my obj ective was to explain
the
construction
of a
pattern
in an easy-to-follow
wa¡
I
have omitted
pattern
markings
such as facing lines used for
actually
constructing
the
garment
and the amount of fabric r equired
to make the
garment.
B
Bust
Abbreviations
sed
n
pattern
drafting
BP
BustPoint
AH
Arm Hole
FAH
FrontArm
Hole
BAH
BackArm Hole
Symbols sed n
pattern
drafting
11
PATTERN MAGIC
W
Waist
MH
Mid Hip
H
Hip
BL
Bust ine
WL
WaistLine
HL
HipLine
EL
Elbow ine
CF
CentreFront
CB
CentreBack
Guideine
Line hat acts as a
guide
when drawing other lines
Shown by a thin solid ine
Sector
ine
equal
engths
Shown by a th¡n broken ¡ne
Finishing ine
L¡ne
nd¡cating
he finished outline ofa
patte rn
Shown bv a hick solid
ine or a broken
¡ne,
Cut
on
he old
[ine ind¡cating where
the
fabr¡c is to be cut
on the
fold,
Shown by a thick broken lin e
Right ngle
márkin1
L
Indicatesr¡ght
ngle. hown y a hin solid ine
One-way
leats
G-
--=
N-7T
l \ )
( , / l
Draw two diagonal lines slop¡ng downwards to wards the hem Shows
that the higher ¡ne olds
over he
lower line,
Grain ine
Ind¡cates
that the cross-w¡se
gra¡n
ofthe
fabric runs
¡n the dirtrt¡on of
the arrow Shown bv
a thick solid
line
Biasdirection
/
/
Indicates the direction
of
the bias ofthe fabric.
Shown bv a hick solid ine
Extension
arking
t---
---=-r,>
Ind¡cates the
part
to be
stretched
Ease arking
z/----=---x
lnd¡c¿tes the Dart to be eased
Close nd
cut open marking
Indicates that the
paper
pattern
is o be folded
along the dotted lines
and cutopen along the sol¡d ine
Marking
o cut
fabricwith
paper
pattern ¡eces
arrangeo
contiguously
&
Ind¡cates
thatthe
paper pattern pieces
are to be arranged
contiguously when
cutting out the
fabric.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
9/105
PATTERN
MACIC
Part1
Creating
orm
hrough
nspiration
You'll
find
ideas
or garment
design
everywhere
.. .
bui ldings,
lowers
or trees
n nature,
tools you use every da¡ even a person's ace.
To
turn
the image
in your
mind
into
a
garment
you'll
need
to
know
the
techniques
of
pattern
making.
It's
not.difficult
and
there's
no
one prescribed
way
to
make garments;
ust
discover
a
way
that
suits
you.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
10/105
13
PATTERN
MACIC
I
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
11/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
12/105
15
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
13/105
,-
-. i ' .:: ' .:
a::::
.
16
P AT T E R N M A
C
I
C
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
14/105
I
Lrater sleeve
=:
page
0 for instructions)
Sleeve ith gathered ole
(See
age
36
for instructions)
17
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
15/105
,18
PATTERN MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
16/105
19
PATTERN
MACIC
L
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
17/105
20
PATTERN
MACJC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
18/105
PATTERN
MACIC
Fundamentals
It's possible
o expressavant-garde design and elegant detail
in
a contemporary
garment
by using the Bunka-style sloper
(block)
as a base which fits the wearer's
body
form
as
closely
as
possible.
First, insert a circular
design
ine instead
of darts
into
the bodice of the sloper.
The
secretof
Pattern
Magic lies in the
"close,
cut and open out" technique.
21
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
19/105
Basic
odice
attern
Bodice
ront
oattern
based
on the
Bunka-style
loper
block) see
pagesgg-102)
Bodice
attern
with
closed
arts.
lnserting
circular esignine
ff
Wn"n
heedge f
thecircle
asses
hroughhebust
po¡nts
Cuüingout the circle
roduces pattern
with
the same
ilhoueüe s he sloper
bove.
Theedge
of
the
circle
passes
hrough he bust
points.
The circle
hat
has
beencut
out
forms
the
pattern
or
the design ine.
l-r
I
When
he circle xtends
eyond
he bust
points
Even f you
cut out
the circle, he underside
oesnot lie lat
and cannot
be usedasa
22
PATTERN
MACIC
pattern.
The
circle
xtends eyond
he
bust
points
Even f
you
cut out the circle, t doesnot
lie lat.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
20/105
To make
a
pattern
or
the circle
Shorteninghe daftsso hat hey end
at the edgeof the circlewill make
he circle ie lat so hat a
pattern
an
be
made
However,he silhouette il l
be not be same s he
sloper
block).
Closehe darts nd
cut out he circle
Threemethodsor
making
pattern
with he
same ilhouette
Theyall nvolvemanipulating
he darts
hatare
eft nside
he circle.
The
pattern
s not fitted n
the chestarea
and he silhouettes not
he same
3. Flatten
. Insert arls
Close
wo darLso make nto
one) 2. Ease
"Flatten"means o
press
own
on
any ullnesshat refuseso lie lat In
a similar ay
o a sugar ubewhere
the corners ave
been
worn
away,
gentle
urvesorm on the
pattern
s
shown n he drawing Flattening
us t
a small mo unt
of
fullness
reates
well-fittedor m
Depending
n the method
ou
use, he
hree-dimensional
expressionhangesrom soft o sharp
To he left s
a bodice
pattern
where he dads havebeen laüened
23
PATTERN
MACIC
Shoftenhe darts o end at he edgeof
the circle
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
21/105
In
the
same
way
as or
the
bodice
with
the
circular
esign
ine,
make
he
bodice
pattern
out
of paper
Draw
anykind
of
l ine ou
want
and
don' t
orget
o insert
he posi t ion
f
the
opening.
Insert ingomplex esignines
nto
a sloper
block)
as
a further
pplication
f
this
echnique
24
PATTERN
MACJC
Cut
and
open
out
along
he ines
Flatten
ut
he
areas
hat
do
not
¡e
iat
either
by
nserting
arts,
asing,
r flattening,
or
by
combining
hese
methods
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
22/105
Cannot
openeo
Thepatterns lat
but he beginning f the
curve annot e opened ut becausehere s
no seam llowanceor he designineseam
Fold
vera small
ortion
t he endof the
curve o create ome eam llowance
Then, ither tretch ut he olded
portion
r
cut andopennear he shoulden
FRONT BACK
Althoughwe have
o be
meticulous
bout
measurementsor
a
garment
attern,n
some ases
here
nly
a few mill imetresre
involved,here snothingwrongwith
being
lexible. ere have olded ndcreatedhe seam llowanceut
you
maychange
the design o hat he designines ndat he
points
p o where
ou
cansew.
The abricalsostretches lot with
patterns
hat havecurveddesign ines, nd when
you
actually ut the
fabric
out,
you
will
need o adjusthe measurements.elect method onsideringhe overall alance f the
garment.
25
PATIERN MACIC
e f lat
either
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
23/105
N
MACIC
á3ffifi
cuttlng requlres
¡
: : ¡ r
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
24/105
-.
\
-ieppdri
protrudes from the
back
like a shell.
:
;¡
it ut i l ises he unevenness f the bod¡
:
r l-sn't
ust
have
o be
the back
- r rr-hicha deppari protrudes.
r.r ' can be
posit ionedanywhere,on the back
:
rn
the chest, o create
a
sharp design
ine.
-.
rc . tre wo
interest in de
pari
designs.
FRONT
BP
aa o
22
43
Because
hedeppari omesntocontactw¡th he right
neckline, ake
only he
rightbodice
:ack
necklineignificantlyeeper
S
Rs he
projection
ill be neater
f
there s
no shoulder
eam,
losehe
eft
shoulder
ar t
and
cut hissection ont¡nuouslyith he
bodice
ront
PATf ERN
MACIC
S
To make he deppariappear o be
protrud¡ng
rom he
pointwhere
he curve
f
the shoulder lade nds, raw t from he end
of the shoulder arton he
pattern
To make
thedeppailneat,move he rightshoulder
dad o the AH
Reverse nd cut out3cm
$
Reversehedepparí gain ndcut out
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
25/105
Page
3:Deppari hirt
Thedepparion the
chestutiliseshe
The sharp ccent
n the chestarea
qualitycottonshirt
has
a coolness
of a safari-stylehirt.
fullness
f the bust.
of the cr isp
igh-
that s eminiscent
cn
SLEEVE
/
cm
-/-/
. . t6cm
4cm
$
Becausehe shirtdoes
not have o be
particularly
itted o the body,
divide he shoulder
artallowancehatwasmoved o the AH
into wo
equal
ectionsDistribute ne half nto he
darts, nd he rest n he
armholeShortenhe dart
becausehe dad allowancessmall
r
a+a-
@
Draw
he depparl
Divide he bust dart
allowance
nto hree qual ections,istribute
one hird ntoease
n
he armhole,
eavewo
thlrds
or
the bustdart
and sew he deppari o
the armhole
12cm
2cm
11cm
28
PATTERN MACIC
COLLAR
@
Reversehe deppari and cutout
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
26/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
27/105
Page
4:
Dress
ith
gathered
ole
A
design
where
a hole
s
opened
nd gathered
in
a
fi tted
silhouette,
i thout
nserting
arts
or
design
ines.
0.5cm
0-5cm
(f
Draft
a pattern
f
a dress
with
a fitted
sjlhouette
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
28/105
@
Becausehe
eft
and
ight
bodice
anels
reasymmetrical,l ign hemanddrawwhere
ou
want
o open he
hole Insert
utt ing ndopening ut
nes
n a rad¡al
attern
n
a balanced ay.
Where he cutt ing ndopening
ut
ines
o
not
make ontact
with
he
point
of the darts, djust y making he darts onger r shorter.
Where he
point
of the dart s oo far away,or exampleike he bust
darton he
eft
bodiceront n he drawing,
ou
canalso rawanother utt ing
andopening ut
ine
s
n
@
Makean openingn he back eftshoulder long he radial-patternutting ndopening ut ine,
andconnecthat sect¡ono the bodice ront
31
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
29/105
Close
ll
the
darls,
hereby
making
t
possible
o
create
a fitted
ouette
even
without
darts.
Manipulate
he
cut
and
opened
arts,
o
draw
a smooth
ontinuous
in e
for
the
outline
f
the
hole
and
he
side
eam.
hen
edraw
he
hemline
with
a neat,
straight
ine.
End
of
seam
o
..ll9-
*
.
.:u"-
------
,
Top-stitch idth= 1cm
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
30/105
':
-i
filred
:lr ttnuous
l ine
:
tl-re
emline
i:,ü
i:
I I i3¡ i : '
-
: :s ign
where
he uxur iousabr ic
. , : l
for
the camisoles i t ted
o the
-
: ; i
wi th designines
ndappearso
-: .
e sprung rom he gathered ole.
: ; made
rom
cotton
oi lewoven
: ' dotsand s
great
or wear ing
s
, isual
wear, or
example, i th
eans.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
31/105
5cm 9cm
Shoulder trap
attachment
osition
2cm
I
21cm-
BACK
20cm-
End of
24cm
6cm
Y
8cm
I
*L'
6cm
I
,1
I
18cm
14cm
I
Q
Open a smallhole or the
gathering
around he mid hip
(MH)
areaof the
right
bodice
ront.
Make a
part
of the
gathering
nto
a
frill
for
greater
emphasis.
To
create he frill strip,decide
where
he seamendsand do not sew
beyond
hat
point.
Then
make he
frill,
taking care not to
attach
it
to
the
bod¡ce.
Fit
he waist using he curveddiagonal eams s
design
ines.
Align
the
right
side seams,
and cut open
;'
@
Draw design ines or the
gathering
n
a
radial
pattern
n
section@
of the
pattern
where he hole hasbeenmade.
Align he bodice iont and back igtrt s¡de eams nd nsert he dcign lines
Enlargement f the frilled
section,
The endsof the frill stripare not
joined
ogether.
34
PATTERN
MAGIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
32/105
With
stretched
bias
Top-stitch
width
=
1cm
End
of
seam
nd
of
seam
C)
Cut
out
each
of
the sections@,
@
and
@
and
adjust
he
hem
ine
@
Cut and
oPen
out
section
@
of
the
pattern
Add
27cm
on
each
side
o
getplentyof frill.Alsoaddextrawidthas equired t@ and@
(4cm
n his
case)
o
draw
smooth
well-connected
ines'
35
PATIERN
MACIC
I
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
33/105
Page
7.
Sleeve
ith
gatheredole
O
Measurehe armhole f the
bodice nd
makea drawing or the sleeve
36
P Af
I
E R N M
A
C
I C
@
Draw
he
inished ilho uette f the sleeve
capasseen
rom
he
side
the
sleeve ap
s
flattenedn he inished tate).
Os,
lf¡fü:ü
filInn"] 1
ilmü
A design
or
a close-fitting
leeve,
with
volume nly n he op section
of
thesleeve.
isualizehe finished
silhouette
f the sleeve
o
determineow much u l lness
mustbe added
o the
pattern.
Then,make he
pattern, rawing
the s leeve
eight n he same
way
as
n the design rawing
n
the r ight.
Don't
orget ha t the
amount
or
cutt ing ndopening
ut var ies
greatly
epending
n the
fabric
you have hosen.
1
f
ú
¡rf,f
tl
tu{
¡
]L
- -
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
34/105
*@
;\
of
the sleeve
Oeeg
can s
l: deeve cap that faces
he neck
by adding
t:
same
measurement
s n
@.
Draw
he
eiderarm line.
@
Cut and open
out the
sleeve
cap unül
it
reaches
ine
@
and
draw
a smooth, curved
ine.
@
Draw
cutting and
opening
out lines
n
a
radial
pattern
rom
the centre
of the hole.
tO nrstly,with
the sleeve
ap attached,
ut and
openout
until he
sleeve ap
ine becomes
orizontat.
It
is up to
you
to decide
how much you
want
to open
the sleeve
ap, but
consider he
fabric
grain,
easeof sewing,
and
other factors.
Sleeve
Top-stitch
idth
=
lcm
a-b=
x
Endofseam-?
2cm
E+scm
@
Because
he
amount or
the
gathering
s
still not
sufficient,
pen
out the sleeve
ap even
urther.
The amount
or cutting
and opening
out vaies
according
o the fabric
used.
37
PATTERN
MAGIC
Sleeve cap
b\\
Endof
seam
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
35/105
_____--
'¡
,,-it,
By inserting ease, he fabric was shaped
nto a
gentle
c.oncave tructure,resembling
a crater on
the
surface of
the m.ben. Use a sturdy
fabric that can be eased nto
shape
or
a
more dramatic appearance.
.*¡,.
Lil
'i
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
36/105
)age
1
Crater
odice
:
-
elegant odice
hat emphasizes
he subtlemovements
f the fabric.
Q
rseft
hedesignines
or he
"crater"
nddetermine
oints
@
and
@,
',
:re the
easing ill end
-
-
d
is
he ine rom
which he
"crater"
tartso swell Draw
@@
by
:,::nding the i ne hat
connectshe
points
f
the wo darts
O
Closehe darts
n he section
:-et forms
he bottom of
the
:rater"on he
bodice ight
panel
39
PATTERN
MACIC
@
ndd Zcm
at he bust ine
o add
hicknesso the
"crater"
and nsert
linesor
cut and
opening ut
asshown n
he draw¡ng
Bring
together
@
Close
he dart n
@
andcut and
openout
@
until
@Af-@
aligns
with
@
AIígn
@
and
@
as
shown n the
drawing o make
one
panern
The
differencen ength
etween
@
and
@
on he bodiceeft
and ight
panels
s
he amount
of ease Use abric
cut on
the biasso
hat it ¡s
easier
o insert ase
FRONT
@
/.'i
I I
l l
l l
l l
l l
t l
t l
| l
t l
l l
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
37/105
#
w
Page 7:
Crater leeve
A sleeve it h structuralnterest here
a denthasbeenmade n the abric
n the sleeve ao.
An
interesting
esignor a simple
acket
r coat.
$
Draft he
basic leeve
attern
Draw he
shape f the sleeve
ap Connect he
point
where hesleeve idth
on elther ide f the
sleeve-capinehas een jv idednto wo
equal ect ions
nd he sleeve pening idth
measurement raw
he
inewith
a slight
outward urveat the EL o create he shape
of the natural
rm
40
PATTERN
MACIC
S
Opensymmetricallyt
he
old
ine o make
a one-prece
reeve
ü,
,'
ff
i[ri
]
il
mm
H
l,u l ] l
t¡ Í
I
'
ri[5úii]
,it
ill[ilt
r r , , { l
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
38/105
o
make
L¡
Q
Ltore
he
design ines
or the "crater"
mn¡ad
rom he sleeveold ines,
nd divide
ü¡e
deeve
pattern
nto two
panels,
@
and
E
l¡a*
points
@
and
@
to indicate
he area
b be eased.
Moving he
design ines nward
*o
has
he effectof making
he arm appear
drfmer.
@-@=
'
@
Rdd
¡cm to increasehe
h¡cknessf
th e
"crater"
n the
area
betweei
@
and
@
on
panel
@.
G)
Draw inesor
cutting ndopening
ut n a
radialpattern
n the
areabetween
@
and
@
on
panel
@
@
Make the
perimeter
f the curved
ine
between
@
and
@
on
panel
@
inio x.
Cut and open
out
panel
@
as
shown n the drawing.
The
amount o be openedout varies
ccording o the fabric
used,
but hereabout 15
percent
of x hasbeen
opened.
The
amount
hat has
beenopened
out
is eased
o create
an elegant
ilhouette
41
PATTERN MAGIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
39/105
The
drop
hole
The otoshiana
technique was developed
from
the idea of connecting
two holes
to form a
tunnel-like strucrure.
As the otoshian a is
a complex design,
we start by assembling
t out of
paper.
(otoshiana)
Assem
ling he
otosh
an
(f
Opena holeof
the desired
ciTp
^n
+hé ñrñpr
@
Cut along he inesBecause
he edges f
the
paper
arts
nd he
pipe
arecurved,
he
excess mount oesnot ie lat
@
trrtake
paper
ipe
and
place
it n he hole Decide
n
your
desired ngle nd
he eng th or
the
pipe
@
With scissorsut
off the
part protruding
rom the top
of the
paper
@
rold
he exceis
n both
sides
nd
edraw
he inesThe
amount
added n hisway makes
the entranceo the hole ooser,
or sharper, nd
he
ook
changes
42
PATTERN
MACIC
ffi
@
Inserthe designines,
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
40/105
Th e
makes
looser,
changes.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
41/105
O
Makea muslin
toile)
or he
skirt
base
Thepattern
or
he skirl n
he
picture
s
shownbelow
but
you
canmaxe
the
skirlany
shape
ou
want
@
In he
same
way aswith paper
n page
2,
nsert
he ube
hrougn
fabric
base
o create
he
otoshiana
lf,r
:rütruÍ
ft
nrulilt
I
mJ,Lfiiff|'
44
PATTERN
MACIC
ü\m
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
42/105
F
rhp ih rnrroh ¡
S
Open
a
hole
where
ou want o
pos¡tionheotoshiana
n he skirt
--r
hoe canbe
of anysize,
ut
remembero
make t arger
han he
:
': mference
f the end
of the
ubeandsmaller
han
he abric
ase
@
Fasten
he abric
baseo the
skirt
with
pins,
nd
machine-stitch
o attach
@
lnsert he
assembled
toshiana
nto
he hole
n the skirt
and
create
your
desired
ilhouette
@
Insert
he design
ines
ere, onsidering
ow best o focus n
the otoshiana
45
PATTERN
MACIC
=f:---
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
43/105
@
Cut
along
he
design
ines
o make
he fabric
oattern
Where
he
edges
f
the hole
do not
lie lat,
fold
the
pattern
and
adjust
the
ine.
@
Open
out
and
ron
he folded
parts,
hen
machine_stitch
or
a
smooth.
continuous
ine.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
44/105
--
-.
dress
eatures wo otoshiana
--:,¡rected
n he
nside
o
form
:: ;nnel .
--
s sa complex
aüern,
sing
:-: basic toshianaechnique.
: : r
th isd ist inct iveesign,
:5osea
coarsewoollen abric,
-
a neutral olor, hat is easy
:r ease nd stretch.
''':'
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
45/105
' lcm
tack
5cm
20cm
End
of
openrn
Open
Lu
t
c1
-"n,1:
tlfu
¡
, idf ' rú 'u
:T¡l
¡
gil
1ñiligl:l]4
iFLi.r
¡lM
]mÉ
urM
*nt
l l
lQ
Using
sloper
block),
losehe darts
ndcut and
openou t
A
base
attern
or
a stmple ress
hat hasneither
arts or
designines.
fmr
üÍMr
dh
lm
1iltt
[d
Lülll
@
Decide n
he wo
places
or positioning
he holes
ndmake
muslin
(toile)
ollowing
he
orderof pattern-making
or a skirt
48
PATTERN
MACIC
BACK
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
46/105
Lumpsand bumps
(dekoboko)
This
technique evolved
from
an
idea
to
incorporate
a
Jekoboko
(an
uneven surface) decoration
úro
a
garment.
Anaching
cubes onto a base is in itsel f interesting,
but
when the cubes are connected
with
design
lines,
dre undulating
lines come alive.
€)
nttach to the
paper
base.
Think
of the
paper
baseas he
garment
@
Cut away he bottom of the base.
From he top, it is convexand rom the
bottom, concave
@
Insert ines n anyway
you
want.
The
pattern
s easiero make f the lines
pass
hrough he corners f the hree-
dimensional
bject
49
PATTERN
MACIC
Making
pattern
or
the dekoboko
ut of
paper
+,
Q
Assemble three-dimen sionalbjectmade
out
of
paper
n
any size
ou
want
@
Cut along he ines, penand lattenout.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
47/105
LLll
,¡
,t i
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
48/105
' ,,laking
pattern
ith
he
th
ee-dimensional
aper
bjects
Q
Randomly
ttach he cubes
t different eights
o
the bodice loper
: ock)made ut
of
paper.
@
Cut
along he ines
ndopen o
createhe
pattern
Where he design
ines o not pass
hrough
he corners f the
cuoes,
the
pattern
will not
ie lat
Useoneof the
hreebasicechniques:
inserting
arts,
asing, r flattening,
o make he
pattern
ie lat
51
PATTERN
MACIC
@
Draw
he designines
n any way
you
want,
oin¡ng
ogether
he cubes
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
49/105
PATTERN
MACIC
Part
2
Makingpatternsor
haute
outure
arments
When
I
was
a srudent,
I remember
how
difficult
it
was
learning
pattern-making
off
the
blackboard.
I
achieved
he
shapes
wanted
by
making
miniatures
out
of paper,
flattening
them
out
by
inserting
lines
and
cutting
them
to
make
a
pattern.
It gave
me
a
great
feeling
of
satisfaction,
but
I knew
that,
logicall¡
it
was
a
dubious
way
of going
about
it .
Playing
around
with patterns
enables
us ro produce
many
more
designs
or
couture
garments.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
50/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
51/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
52/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
53/105
PATTERN
MAGIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
54/105
57
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
55/105
;3
F
TF
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
56/105
Tyitg
a bow
A
(See
age
88
for instructions)
Tying a bow
C
(See
age
0
for instructions)
Tyittg a
bow
B
(See
age
88 for instructions)
Tying a
bow
D
(See
age
92 for
instructions)
59
PATTERN MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
57/105
Two
distinct
expressions
(See
age
95 for
instructions)
An
intriguing
curve
(See
age
97 for instructions)
60
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
58/105
,d
PATTERN
MAGIC
Clothes are
a way
of expressing
oneself,
and with this in
mind
I'm often inspired
by fashions
of the past.
To discover
how
they were made,
I try drafting the patterns myself, and
sometimes ome
up
with designs hat
ar e
entirely my own.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
59/105
Draped
design
An
elegant
contrast
creared
by
light
and
shade.
Make
an
easy-to-draft
flar
pattern
for
a
draped
design
hat
is
usually
produced
by pinning
and
three-dimensional
cutting
of
fabric.
A right
and
left
intersecting
whirlpool
drape
has
been
insetted
into
the
s\oper
bodice.
l r l ,
ivtaKf
g
tne
basic
attern
ffñ
m
¡
rj
I
:
i
I
I
l
:
j
1
i
3
l
;
:
5c m
lcm
0.
1
; :+05cm
H'
t+
2,5cm
O
Insert
waist
darts
so
hat
the
bodice
s
itted
¡n
he
wa¡st
area
The
odice
ront
darts
are
closed
wh
area
.rh
ce
re
r
h
,
ñ
;:;::
il-,."T:r"ff
["-;,lT:
ff
*,
a
crrcre,
onsidering
he
bulk
created
y
he
tuy.r,
ot
fuUri.
ll
tin"
connect¡ng
€ @)
,s
he
design
ine
or
making
h"
n","'
"
Divide
@@,
the
adius
f
he
circle,
nto
our
equal
ect¡ons
nd
11.,X.*ig."o
opening
ut
ines
Divide
he
;;;;;;;
""0
w
€-F(9
¡nto
panels
@
and
@
respectively.
Lm
lc m
9cm
\
5c m
BP
9c m
tcm}*'z
4c m
4c m
l
I
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
60/105
In tersect
he
eft
and
r ight
bodice
anels
hrough he hole
andcreatehe draped esign. he argerhe c i rc le,
the more e laxedhe
design
i l l
be,andconversely,he smal ler the
i rc le,he sharperthe esign.
Endof
seam
,=
Close adson bothpanels
@
and
@
andcutandopenout until
he
distance etween
@
and
@
becomes 8cm n hi s
case
Align
panels
@
and
@
anddrawsmooth, ontinuous
ines
To make he hole, ecide here
he
seamwill
endandcall
t
@
ffi
Sew ogetherhe area etween
@
to
@
on one bodice
anel
an d
an d
fti
Insertheother odice
anelnto
he
hole
ou
havemade
nd ew
from
O
to
@
Sew hecentreront rom
@,
heend f heseam,o hehem
63
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
61/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
62/105
abric)
On
@
Where he
pattern
has
been everseo
Q
Reverse
ne
half
of the bodice ndsewbetween
@
and
@
@ Insert he otherhalfof the bodicento he holeand wist @ Sew rom@ to @ on theotherhalfof the bodiceSew he centre
front
and
rom
he seam nd o the hem Becausef the bulkof the
fabric,make
he
hole
somewhatarge ndadjust fterassembling
65
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
63/105
cr
¡gil
-l]tf
¡ilÍ[
iE
Fag*
53. #ress
#
r-mp:md
$*sigr-r
A dressmade rom
silkcréoe or more
formal
occasions.
The
draped esign
round he
chest s created
with
a technique
hat doesnot involve
wisting
and maximizes
he
soft,billowy abric.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
64/105
H
;
+2cm
FRONT
0.5cm
0.5cm
.scm 1.scm
2cm
(f
Becausehe necklineswide,move he shoulder arts o the
neckline. ivide he radius f the circle or the drape n the
bodice
front
nto our
equal ections nddrawcutting
and opening ines n
panel
@
For he skirt
pattern
@,
draw
ust
one cuüingand openrng
line acing he end of the darts.
4 equal
pans
End
of
openrng
@
On the
bodice ront,
divide he
pattern
on
either ide f
@@
into
panels@and@
Close
the dartson
@
and
cut
andopenout.Then
close he dartson
@
and
open out the centre ront
horizontallyntilaligned
with
@
and
@
asshown
¡n
he draw¡ng
Sew rom @ up to the end of the seam, ross
over he other
half nto
he hole
ou
have
madeand sew hls
also rom
@
up to the
end
of the seam
The centre ront
of
the skirt s a
vent and hereforenot sewn. f the opening
bothers ou. sew t down at the back.
67
PATTERN MACIC
@
For
he bodice ac k,
losehe
dartsand nserta little lare.
2cm
Shoulder
WL
l¡ne
)O
@
FRONT
J
L
Neck-
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
65/105
-
Th*
tre'ist
reeiiri}
\fhen you
twist a fabric
it becomes arrower
and shorter,
and when you release
t, it returns to normal.
In a different
way
from
a
garment
that has
a
furrowed
drape
produced
by techniques
such as
changing the
position
of the
left
and right sleeves,
this
patern
has
been
manipulated
so that the fabric
is
twisted round and round [ke
a spiral.
eTheoreticallypeaking, hen a' is wisted,measurement.ecomeshorter. owever, s he abric
will ook ike
hat n hedrawing
n he
right,
he measurement
ill, n reality,
eeven horter.
e
As he fabricwill
attempt o releasehe twist,
educehe
ease
n
the hips o fit
precisely.
A
designhat ncorporates
lasticapeor a band
o keep he hemlinen position
nd
prevent
he
fabric rom returning
o normal,sbest
*As
twistingmakes
he waistnarrower,
e careful ot
to
reduce
oo much
at the waist.
a
As
neiiri
snot a naturalorm
of the abric,t will
be easierf
you
use
a
fabric
hat hashigh
stretchability.
The
basic od ice
As wisting
makes he
garment
horter, cm hasbeen
added o the ength
The
waisthas
been wisted l ightly
6B
PATTERN MACIC
ü
I
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
66/105
Three eiiri
patterns
As twisting he
fabric
changes he shapeof the neckline nd
here he fabric has
been wisted
only around he
waist.
Twist orizontally
the armhole n a complexway,
$
Move the centreby a measurement qual
o
'a' in
the
opposite
directionof the twist
you
want
to create
n the fabric,
@
Move both sideseam
ineshorizontally sshown n the
drawing
¡n
his case Ocm).
@
Redraw
he sideseam ines o connect
he cornerof the armholeand he waist and hip area n
smoothcontinuous
ines.
Twist
erpendicularly
Q
Manipulate he centre ront
and
centre
backon the
pattem
by a measurement qual o 'b'
(in
this
case
4cm)
n a verticaldirection
opposite
o
that of the twist
you
want to create n the fabric.
(O
Adjust he lines or
the
neckline nd
he hem,
69
PATTERN
MACIC
a
=
1ocm
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
67/105
Twist
both
horizontally
nd
perpendicularly
Making
he
fabr¡c
wist
horizontaily
nd perpendicurarryt the same ime sdifficurt,so manipulate
he
horizontal
attern
using
he
pattern
hat
has
all
It
s
easier
r
vou
"'
u u".ti.uiiv
'unipurated
anern
n
hi.h
h";:drii::"##t:r"1"*"J;1'L
Adjust
he
hemrine
t
he
end.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
68/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
69/105
Q
Basic
pattern
The pattern
s he
same or the front
and he back,
and he
simple esign
where
he sleeves re part
of the bodice
s createdn
a knit abric.
No
easehas
beenadded
o make he
garment
itted at
the hip. Stretch
he
neckline
penand check hat
your
head its
hrough lf it
doesnot, make
the neck arger.
@
Twist
perpendicularly
Manipulate
he
pattern
vertically
in
the direction
opposite
o that
of
the twist
you
want
to create
in
the
abric.
O¡
ilfrGd
O
Tw¡st
horizontally
Manipulate
he
pattern
n
the direction
opposite o that
of the twist
you
want
to
create n he fabric, n he samewav as or the
perpendicular
wist.
72
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
70/105
Page
0:
A
collar
ith
two
distinct
xPresslons
A
shirt
collar
rom
he
back
and'
when
viewed
rom
he
ront'
a
double
collar,
his
offers
wo
variations
n
a
theme'
I
combined
atterns
or
two
collars
o
make
his
l$
Using
he
sloper
block), raft
he
pattern
or
the
bodice
ase
r6 \
¡ñ\
DZ----
ry l
3cm
Collar
attachmenl
l ine
\
Coilar
tand
attachment
ln e
for
@'
and
@'
produced
n
step
O
are
aligned
t@ @
@
ls
ace
down)'
but
as
he
ncllne
s
different'
ga p
)wn
in
e>O
""¿
the
ength
s
not
equal
Open
out
he
slits'
d call
he
resulting
Pattern
9)
95
PATTERN
MACIC
intriguing
esign'
With
the
collar
standlng
@
Draft
patterns
or
each
of
the
two
cottars
@igl
€)
Align
he
collar
ttachment
ines
of th"
t*o
collars
CoPY
he
collar
stand
on
collar
@
to
collar
@
O
make
Patterns
or
collars
@
and
@
without
he
collar
tand;
hen
make
ive
slits
n
he
collar
unntng
towards
he
collar
tand
s
shown
n
the
drawing
o+@
This ollar
s
constructed
rom
pattern
ieces
@'
@'
and
@
as
shown
n
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
71/105
design
No
he
not.
make
@
To createa soft effect rom the shoulder
o the sleeve ap,align he
left
and
right sleeve apsasshown
n
the drawing
The design ines nserted
nto
the
bodicebackserveas a stylish ccent
@
n
stytistr
esignhasbeencreatedby manipulating
he
pattern.
73
PATTERN MAGIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
72/105
(kakurenbo)
Flide
and seek
Not
a
flare that
expands uniformly
by cutting and opening out the
pattern,
but
a flare
that is subtly concealed
on the underside of the fabric.
Making a pattern Ío r
the kakurenbo design
with
a drawing is easier han
you
think.
A basic
abot-style
ril l
A
gorgeous
ecorative
ffect or
the front of
a blouse.
The
connection
etween
he section
hat is visible
rom
the
front
an d
the
section oncealed
nderneath
s mportant.
o'
l[) rtnake drawing
of the frill
you
want
o make
(O
Rttach
arts
@,
@
and
@.
Reverse
before
ttaching
r heback ide
f he
garment
ill
beon
op.
@
Smoothly
djust he line
hat will become
he
edgeof the rill
74
PATTERN
MAC¡C
-i¡
ml
E
4'
5ú
@
Separate
ut the various
parts
/
@
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
73/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
74/105
@
Return o
@
and mark he flarepoints
(points
rom which he flare s
going
o
appear) n the
places ou
want to insed
he
flare. he ine hat
descends
erpendicularly
from
the flare
points
becomeshe cutting
and
opening
ut ines or he lare.
@
Align he variousparts.
Reverse
@
beforealigning
or the backside
of the fabric
wil l be on
oo .
76
PATTERN
MACIC
@
Cut andopen
out and edraw he lared
emline
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
75/105
Page
5.
A
pinafore
ith
kakurenbo
esign
The
complex urves
f the lare
design
ines
were ncorporated
nto
he
waistl ine
of a babydoll-style
inafore
made rom
a soft woollen
georgette
that
neatly
expresses
he concealed
lare.
-18cm
.
1
8cm
Q
Drafta
pattern
or
the
pinafore
77
PATTERN MACIC
-17cm
-
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
76/105
I
d
f
.
r
I
@
Draw he
curved esign
ines n
the bodice
ront Find
a balance
that
setsoff the
concealed
ection
(O
Insert
lignment
arkings
ndcutting
nd
opening
ut ines
r
)
into
the concealed
ection.
The alignment
markings
will
become lare
points.
@
Reverse
he concealed
ections,
ring
hem o
the ront,
and connect.
Add flare points
@@
in a
balancedway
and draw
he design
ines or
the lare
a)
78
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
77/105
@
Add alignment
markings
@@
to the bod¡ce
o serve
as markings
whensewing
he design
ines.
@
Cut and
openout he
amount
or the
lare
79
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
78/105
Interwoven design
In this technique
you gather
the fabric
and mold
it
as
f i t
were being woven.
I decided o see f I could produce a pattern from
the complex beauty
created by layer s of fabric
woven together
that I had once seen
in a
fashion
magazrne.
If the fabric on the left and the
right
are
of
different
colors,
the way in which the
fabric intersects
can be seen
more
clearly.
()
Assemble
he
paper
loper
block)
n the dress
orm
and draw ines
symmetrically.
As shown n he drawing,makealignmentmarkingsn
places
here
the ines ntersect,
(Face
side
of the fabr¡c)
Make
overcast
stitches here and
there
n
the back
80
PATTERN
MAGIC
Because
hisdesign ontainsew seam
allowances,he fabric rays
easilyand
t is
difficult o
make
he assembled
ieces
f
fabric stay n place Youcan eitherwear an
under-dress,r
you
can ine he
garment
with
the same abric
as he
garment
When
you
line he
garment,
t is
advisableo use
a
base
pattern
hat has
no
ntersection
ines,
nd
sew he neckline nd
he armholesogether
with the outer abric
ayer.
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
79/105
where
f
an
with
base
and
O
The
parts
hat do
not
pass
hrough
he bust
point refuse o
lie lat
even
aftercutt ing
long he
ines nsert
athers
n hese
arts, lose
he
darts,
nd cut and open
out And hen
cut and open
out the amount
for
the
gathering
gain The
volume f the
gathering
aries
ccording
to
the abric
used ndaccording
o
your
personal
reference.
@
Cut asshown
n he drawing
bove.
Because ifferent
abrics
havedifferent
grains
and
somestretching
may
occur
when
you
interweavehe
fabric
piecesogether, ut
the fabr¡c
with some ase
n he hemline
ndadiust
t at he end
@
Becareful
ot o cut oo deep
Makecub
nto he abricup
o the
alignment
markingsnserted
n stepQ.
@
Interweave
he fabric
pieces
rom the top
in
the
sameway
as he
Iines ou drewon he paper n he dressor m
81
PATTERN MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
80/105
Page
6:
Blouse
ith
an nterwoven
esign
Using
his
echnique,
created
blouse
with
left
and right
asymmetry.
n
cotton
awn
abric,
I made
a
bamboo
eaf
shape rom
the
points
of
the fabric
hat
I
cut into.
I
did not
sew
he pointed
ections
own, preferring
hem
o
be
oose.
ctose'lf
Open
BACK
Q
Move
he
shoulder
ar t
to the
armhole
cm
2cm
9cm
l l
' lcm
,S".
\
1
1r
Zipper
(left)
1cm r.dá-
@
Draw
he
neckline
n he
bodice
ack
with eft
an d
right
asymmetry
82
PATTERN
MAGIC
o
jül[
:5
frÉ
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
81/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
82/105
Bamboo
shoot
Page
7.Bodice
ith
a takenoko
esign
In
hisexci t ingechnique,
ayersesembl ing
the mul t i - layered
eckl ine
f a
formal
imono
arecreatedrom
one
piece
of fabric.
i
They ook
exactly ike he ayers
f a bamboo
hoot.
The
ighterand more itted
he silhouette
f
the
bodice,he more he
shadingn he abric
stands
ut .
(takenoko)
tp makea
paper
loper
block)
nd
draw uck ines
o create
design
resembling
bamboo
hoot.
84
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
83/105
@
Cut nto
he
uck ines
nd
closehe
darts
nd latten
Do
not cur
above he BP
@
Cut nto
he abric
long
he red
ines
About1 5-2cm s equiredo be olded onsideringhe raying f the
Seam
ilowances
@
Extend
he jnes
owards
he
shoulder
nd
he armhole,
hencut
and
open
out o
create
he amount
or
he ucks
the
op downwards
@ack
side
of the fabric)
Make
vercast
t¡tches
hele
and
here
ont/on
-llss¿z¿;4g¿z
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
84/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
85/105
6c m
I
I
BACKI
I-P.'
Pg"x'
0.5cm
1.scm
2cÁ
I
\
20cm
Endof
openrng
Page
Knot
d
ess
for
a knot dress
asic
attern
manipulation
Close
he
shoulder arts
until
2cm
ooenson the WL
Close he
armhole darts
until2cm oDens
on
the
WL
bc m
Q
Closeboth the shoulder
dartsand armholedarb until 2cm openson the waistline, hen makea
pattern
or the dressbase.
Establishhe centreof the knot
@
in the
position
where
you
want to create
he bow.
Eases required n
the width of the knot to tie at
@.
Measure
from
@
13cm
n
th¡s case)and
from there draw
cutting
and opening ines.
Draw he cutting
and opening ut l ines n the
posit ion
here
you
want
o drape he
bow
abric
@
The
amount
hat has
been ut andopened
out becomeshe drape.
Decide n he amount o cut and ooenou t
accordingo the
fabric
used.
Draw
he
pattern
or the
bow
from where
you
havecut and openedout.
The
bulkiness f
the knot s
determined v
drawing he curve rom
@
End of seam
Note:
The
circled umber
at the bottom of a
l¡ne ndiates
he numberof centimetres obe openedout at that
point
87
PATTERN
MAGIC
@
Sew he bow section
nto a tubular shape
upto@
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
86/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
87/105
2c m
2c m
Endof collar
attachment
$
Drafta
pattern
or the bodice sing
he
sloper
block)
A vertical not
is
oossible
ith
his ie
Measurehe width
and
bulkiness
f the
knot,
anddrawcuttingan d
opening ut ines
3c m
*
Neckline
32cm
f)
Close he darts n the bodiceront
and
cut andopen
ou t
Draw he
pattern
or the bow rom where
ou
have ut,andopenou t
Cut on he
ol d
@
Passhe vertical rain
of the abric hrough he ength f the bow
to
create
large,
istinctive
not
A soft ook
sproducedf
you
cut he
fabric
n the bias
lf
you
want
o insert
o¡nt,
posit¡on
t nsidehe knot
L,On
the
\
fold
\
Here have l ightly hangedhe yingmethod
Other yingmethods realso
ossible
89
PATTERN
MACIC
On the
fold
0 5c m
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
88/105
ffmg*
9;
TyFng
b*w
Two
separate
ows
are
ie d
towards
he right
for
attractive
mphasis.
Here he two bows
are
of the
same ength,
but
one arge
ndone
small
ow
would
also
e effective.
Place
he
second
ow
@
on op
of the
bow
hat ¡s
part
of
the
bodice ndsew n he shape f a tubeup o theendof theseam
@
Measure
(the
measurement
o which
ease
as
beenadded
o
the
width
of the
knot)horizontally,
nd
(the
measurement
o which
ease
hasbeen
dded
o the
hickness
f the
knot)verlically.
lnsed
ut andspread
ines
Where
he
cutand
spreadines
o
not
pass
hrough
he
end
ofthe
darts,
djust
o make
hem
endat he
design
ines
90
PATTERN
MACIC
ffi
rind
the
centre
f the knot
@
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
89/105
End
of seam
to the
$
Close
he dartson
the bodice
nd
cut and open
out
From he
sectionshat
havebeen
opened
ut,
draw he
pattern
or the
irstbow as an
extenslon
f
the bodice
29cm
@
l lcm
LEFT
S
Draw he
pattern or the second
ow
q$
Reversehe
eft and
¡ght
pieces f the
bow n
step
S;
addan
8
x
5cm ectangular
iece or
he knot
between
hem;align
he hree
pieces nd
join
wi tha
smooth, ontinuous
ine
91
PATTERN MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
90/105
Page
9:
Tying
bowD
An elaborate esign s achieved y
passing
the
bow
through
a
hole
before ying
The
express ionf the
garment
hanges onsiderably
by moving
he
posi t ion
f the
hole
up or down,
to the s ide, r by changinghe s ize f the hole.
Anotherexample f
Pattern
Magicl
__?i
he fold
/ l
12cm
On the fold
COLLAR
End
of collarattachment
Draft he bodice attern
sing sloper
block)
The
knotted
part
of the bow that is
part
of the collarsits
between he
left
and
ightholes
Determ¡ne
he
ength
f the bow,considering
he ength f the
intersection,
he distance
etween he wo holes, nd he
size fthe knot
0 5cm
2c m
4c m
0
FRONT
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
91/105
tn e
knot
93
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
92/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
93/105
Page
0:
A collar ith
two
disti ct
expressions
A shirtcollar rom
he back
and,whenviewed rom
he front,
a double
collar,
hisoffers
wo variations
n a theme.
I
combined atterns
or
wo collarso make
his ntriguingesign.
scm
J
@
o+@
COLLAR
,a,4cm +
(i
s----LL__l
z.5cm:,
@
Q
Using
he sloper
block),
raft he
pattern
or
7cm
3c m
v
o.2cm
@
Draft
patterns
or eachof the two
collars
Collar
landattachmentin e
Collar
attachment
l tne
f}
Align he
collar ttachmentines
of the wo collars
Copy he collar
standon collar
@
to collar
@
@
@
tvtakepatterns
or collars
@
and
@
without
he
collar
tand; hen
make iveslits n he collar unning
towardshe collar tand sshown n
the drawing
With he
collar tanding
This ollars
constructed
rom
pattern
ieces
@, @,
and
@
a5shown n
the drawins
@ti
@
the pattern
or
@'
and
@'
produced
n
step
@
arealigned
at
@tr@
(the
pattern
or
@
is
acedown),but as
he
ncline
sdifferent,
gap
opens etween
@@
and he ength snot equal
Openout he slits,
align
@@
andcall he resulting
attern
@
95
PATTERN
1
sc m
the bodice base
@
o
(D'
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
94/105
96
PATf
ERN MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
95/105
Page 0,A collar
ithan
ntriguingurve
On
a sheet f
paper,
raw
a curveand hen
old along he
ines f the curve.
When
you
bend he
nside f the curve
lightly,he
outside f the curve
ises p and
takes n
a completely ifferent
ppearance.
I
applied
his nteresting
ffect o a collar.
Q
Usinga sloper
block),
raft he
pattern
or
the
bodicebase Mark he collarattachment
osition
97
PATTERN MACIC
l .5cm
lA
Align he shoulders f
@
and
@
and
measure .5cmof collar
width at a right
angle
rom
@
on the collar ttachment
ln e
for
@.
Thenconnect
rom
@
and
make
drawing or the
rontof
@
insidehe collar.
Becausehe back
f the collar asa collar
stand,
measurehe ength f the back
neckline
andmake rectangularrawing
@
Fora soft inish, ut
he under nd he upper
collar ontinuously
ake he upper ollar
@
@, @, @
and
@
all nterconnect
o create
pattern
where he bodice nd he
collar ecome
one
Because
(the
bodice) nd
@
(the
collar)
are
oined
although he collarattachment
ine
iscurved, hen
you put t
on, he collar
loats
upwards n the sameway as he
paperon the
opposite
age, or
a completely
ifferent ook
Order for sewing together
O
Sew ogether
he bodice
@
centreback
@
Sew he collar
edges or the collar
patterns
@and@
@
Sew he collarattachment
ine on the back
bodice nd
@.
@
Sew he front bodice
and
@
@
At the collar
attachment ine,sew
@
to the
bodice
* | haveabbreviatedhe instructions, ut
when
you
actually
onstructhe
garment,
attach he
facing o the neckline f the
bodiceand
prick-stitch
o
fasten he back
collarattachment
osition
nd
he facing-in
place
asshown n the drawing
On the fold
attachmenl
l ine
J.5Cm
FRONT
BP
Faces¡de
of the fabric
Attach he
acing
nd
prick
stitch o fasten n
Dlace
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
96/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
97/105
The
basis
or
pattem
deuelopment
s
the
Bunka-style
loper
block)
for
an
adult woman
The
Bunka-stylesloper
(block)
created
or
the
body shape
of the
modern
Japanese
oman
is
constructed h¡ee-
dimensionally nd itted o the bodywith darts bustdarts,backshoulder arts,waist darts).
Bust
B),
waist
7)
and
centre
ack engthmeasurementsre equired o draw hesloper
block).
Themeasurements
for
each
part
of
the body
are based
on the bust measurement, nd the sizeof eachdart
has been
calculated
rom
the
bust and waist
measurements. ach waist dart is calculatedby the formula-bodice
-
(UIlz
+
3)-where 3cm
is
the amount of ease dded.
Precise alculationsare required or a neat it,
but
drawings will be relatively easy
f
you
refer to the
quick
reference able of
measurementsor
different
parts
of
the body.
Pages
101
and
I-.02
eature
half-scale
lopers
blocks)
or
you
to use or eachofthe bust sizes:77,80,83, 86 and 89cm.
Quick
referenceableof measurementsor different
arts
of the
body
(Unit:
cm)
B
Eody
width
B^
@-BL
B.^_
- + tJ.t
12
Back
width
- + I-4
8
BL-
@
f ,+e.e
Che5t
w¡dth
B
^^
g +o.¿
B
32
B
32
Frcnt
neckline
w¡dth
E+3.4--@
Front
neckline
depth
@+0.5
, ; - ;
Back
ntrkline
width
@+0.2
Back
shoulder
darB
B
^^32 - ''o
77 44.5 20.1 17.O 23.7
15.8
6. 6 7. 1
16.8
6. 8
t. o
78
45.0
20.2
17.2
23.9
16.0
2.4
6.7
7. 2 17.O 6.9 1.6
79 45.5 20.3 17.3 24.1
16.1
2. 5
6.7
7.2
11.3 6.9 1.7
80
46.0 20.4 17.4 24.3
16.2 ¿. c o. /
7. 2
| / .c
6.9
1. 7
81
46.5
20.5
17.5 24.5 2. 5 6. 8
7Q
17.8 7. 0 1. 7
82 47.O 20.5
17.7 24.7
to.c ¿,o
6. 8 7. 3
18.0
7n
1. 8
83 47.5 20.6
17.4 24.9 16.6 2.6 6.9 7. 4
18.3
7. 1
1. 8
84 48.0 20.7 17.9 25.'l
16.7 2. 6 6.9 7.4 18.5 7. 1
1. 8
85
48.5 20.8 18.0
¿4.ó 16.8 2. 7 6. 9 7.4
18.8
7. 1
1. 9
óo
49.0
¿v,Y
18.2
¿c.3
17.O
2. 7
7.O 19.0
7. 2
1. 9
87
49.5 21.0 18.3 25.7
17.1
2. 7
7.O 7.5 19.3 7.2
1. 9
88 50.0 21.O
18.4 25.9
17.2
2.8
7.1 7.6 19.5
7.3
2. O
89 50.5 21.1
18.5 26.1 17.3 2. 8
7.1 7.6 19.8 7.3 2.O
Waist
dart
measurement-Quick
eference
able
(Unit:
cm)
99
PATTERN
MAGIC
Total
darts volum€
100%
o o a
7o/o
lAyo 35o/" 11o/" 15/"
14o/o
I 0. 6
t. o J. l 1 1. 4 1.3
10 0.7
1.8 3.5 1.1
.t E
1. 4
11 0.8 2 3.9
1.2 1.6 1. 5
12 0.8
2-2 4.2 1.3 1.8 1.7
12.5 0. 9
2. 3 4.3 1.3 1.9 1.8
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
98/105
FRONT
Ao
Making
a
drawing
f
a
sloper
block)
;;?üil?ffÍ3;j:f¡:iXjilf"Ththe
bodice
nd
he
leeve,
ut
onrv
he
method
rdrawing
bodice
roper
btock),
sed
Basic
ines
o
Centre
back
length
Curved
@
@
@
Chest
width FRONT
line
^o
+
6.2cm
--ó
=\
B
Á
@
B
8cm
t-----,@.-
@
Back
width
line
@
V\^
-J',
lcmG) (E l
BACK
i,
G\
u,ccm;
ñv
z+7.4cm
I
- -8
.\ -
Centre
back
line
Bodywidth=(f+6cm)
C
,a\
I
B
12
rO)
' + 8.3cm
9+
s.¿cm
@)
24
@+
0.5cm
Firstly
raw
the
basic
ines
or
the
bodice.
Accurately
measure
ach
part
of
the
body
and
draw
ines
n
the
order
of
O
to
@
The
numbers
n
the
guide
able
are
also
arranged
for
reading
n
order
rom
the
left
to helpyou
proceed
with pattern
drafting
n
that
order.
lvlake
he
amount
that
is
opened
out ¡ntoease
¡n
he
armhole
After
drawing
he
basic
ines,
draw
he
curved
lines
f
the neckline,
houlde¡
nd
armhole.
and
inally
he
darts
Tips
or
movíng
arts
when
you
close
he
waist
darts
with
@
as
he pivotal
point,
he
armhole
pens
a small
amount
o
provide
ease
n
the
armhole.
he
waist
darts
on
the
sloper
block)
re
markei
when
used
or
putt.rn
Jiurting
Jti"uu
been
omitted
where
not
required.
Make
he
amount
that
is
opened
out
into
ease
in the
armhole
100
PATTERN
MAC¡C
+
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
99/105
Copy
at
2@7" on a
photocopiero
make he
full-sized
attern.
77cm
80cm
83cm
86cm
89cm
86cm I
Bunka-üle
sloper
block)
or an adult
woman
(Size
)
halr-scal
101
PATTERN
MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
100/105
Bust B) Waist W)
Back engtt
77cm
58cm
38cm
80cm
61cm
83cm
64cm
86cm 67cm
89cm 70cm
In co4
¡".,r*
I
thatrm{
wayfm{
aromdüd
I
a seredl
wth
rder¡
and
s s¡{
studem{
r*o'u{
I
indudql
shomrl
77cm
80cm
83cm
86cm
89cm
86cm 83cm
80cm 77cm
102
PATTERN
MAGIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
101/105
Bunka-üle
sloper
block)
or
an
adult
woman
(Size
)
halr-scale)
Copy
at2Cxi'%
n
a
photocopier
o
make
he
full-sized
aüern'
77cm
80cm
83cm
86cm
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
102/105
Bust
B)
Waist
W)
Back engtl
77cm 58cm
38cm
80cm
61cm
83cm
64cm
86cm
67cm
89cm
70cm
F
{t
ir
a¡
¿
rd
Ir
d
¡b
77cm
80cm
83cm
86cm
89cm
89cm 86cm
83cm 80cm
102
PATTERN MACIC
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
103/105
In conclusion
Just
like works of art,
garments come in various kinds:
garments
wiü visual
mpact,
garments
that react to the
movement ofthe bod¡
garments
for casual
wear-but there is
no
one
prescribed
way for how they are made.
The history of clothing began
with the wrapping
of a
piece
of
fabric
aromd the bod¡ so
you
should let
your mind be free and approach
the making of
garments
with
a sense of
frm. Ideas for
garments are arguably infinite.
I have always believed
in
experimenting
with ideas. This book contains
pattems
that I
have created based on a trial-and-error
approach,
and is supplementary to the teaching materials used at the Bunka Fashion Open College for
students
who may find
pattem-making
difficult.
I would
like to
express
my appreciation
to many
people
for their help
in
this
publication,
including Ms Kasai Fujino,
from whom I received
advice about slopers,
and everyone who
has
shown an interest
in
this
book.
103
PATTERN
MACIC
LIOTHCA
Diseño
lr¡di¡rq: '" ;
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
104/105
8/19/2019 pattern magic.pdf
105/105
Top Related