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Acknowledgement
We take this opportunity to thank our faculty Mr. C. A. Rayan, A s s o c i a t e P r o f e s s o r ,
f o r m e r R I C a n d o u r s u b j e c t f a c u l t y , w h o t o o k a l l pain and left no stone
unturned in giving us the theme and concept behind the subject.
Whenever w e came under any difficulty he was always there not just to solve our
problem but also to show and guide us along the correct path .
We would also like to express our gratefullness to Mr. Shivlingam, Course Co-ordinator, Fashion and Textile Design for taking time from his busy schedule to explain
us the tests which are foremost and important in garment manufacturing process.
We would also like to express our gratitude to Mr. Shashi Bhusan, GM-SilverSpark
Apparels,Raymonds Ltd. who took time in his busy schedule to come and explain to us
the product development and analysis process.
NishantKumar
Rahul Choudhury
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Contents1.
Introduction .................................................................................................................................................... 5
1. 1. Subject brief ................................................................................................................................ 5
1. 2. Objective......................................................................................................................................... 5
1. 3. Scope of Learning ............................................................................................................................ 5
1 . 4 . Trousers ...................................................................................................................................... 6
1.5. Product History ................................................................................................................................ 6
2. Product Analysis ...................................................................................................................................... 9
2.2. Reason for choosing the garment ................................................................................................................... 9
2.3. Process of Product Development ..................................................................................................... 11
2.4. Garment components classification:............................................................................................... 12
2.5 Garment component details: ........................................................................................................ 12
2.6Process of conversion ..................................................................................................................... 13
2 .7 Product Specification Sheet ............................................................................................................... 15
3. Test Report ................................................................................................................................................ 23
4. Raw Material Analysis ............................................................................................................................... 26
5. Sourcing .............................................................................................................................................. 27
6. Bill 0f Material ................................................................................................................................... 35
7. Operation Breakdown ................................................................................................................... 37
8. Production planning......................................................................................................................... 40
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Introduction
1. 1. Subject brief
The product analysis and developmentis aimed at developing the garment
from a given sample. The main idea behind the subject is to simulate a situation
when an individual desiring to establish his own garment unit undergoes various
research and other processes involved in the whole development process.The various processes include fabric selection, fabric sourcing, trim selection and
sourcing, fabric and trims testing, development of sample production planning for
bulk production (10,000pcs) and product repl icat ion etc.
The garment we selected for our Product Analysis and Development is a mens formal trouser of size 34
1. 2. Objective
To understand the methodology of development of the product.
To understand the raw materials in terms of their content,performance,care and
maintenance for the intended end use.
To explore the sources, costs and time for procurementof the raw materials.
Understand the Communication Pattern with Buyers & Deepen the understanding of
interaction between various functions (Depts.)
To analyse the garment from an aesthetic and functional view point.
To develop an industrial pattern and mock sample and analyze it.
To develop the sample according to sample specifications
To understand and become familiar with t h e process requirements for the
production of the garment.
1. 3. Scope ofLearning
The subject is providing a great scope to learn how the garment production
process starts from scratch. Starting from the very beginning of design concept,
which begins in the design studio of the buyer, and then goes from the rigorous
process ofsourcing, cutting, manufacturing, warehousing, shipping and then supplying
to each stores. The subject tries to give us practical experience by simulating the
s i m i l a r situation o n a smaller scale.
The garment w h i c h we have chosen, we will be doing so urc in g , pattern making,tech pack generation, and then sewing and packing. This whole simulation process
will give us the edge, and make us face and solve the problems which occur in garment
manufacturing units.
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1. 4. Trousers
In our course of product analysis and developmentwe chose to design and
make a formal mens trouser. A trouser is a cloth garment for the lower body.
Trousers are an item of clothing worn on the lower part of the body from the waist to the
ankles, covering both legs separately (rather than with cloth stretching across both as in
skirts and dresses). The word trousers is used in the UK and Ireland, but some other
English-speaking countries such as Canada, South Africa, and the United States can also refer
to such items of clothing as pants. Additional synonyms include slacks, strides, kegs or kex,
breeches or breeks. Shorts are similar to trousers, but with legs that come down only to
around the area of the knee, higher or lower than the knee depending on the style of the
garment.
In most of the Western world, trousers have been worn since ancient times and throughout
the Medieval period, becoming the most common form of lower body clothing for males in
the modern period, although shorts are also widely worn, and kilts and other garments may
be worn in various regions and cultures. Shorts are often preferred in hot weather or for
some sports, and also often by children. Since the late 20th century, trousers have become
prevalent for females as well. Trousers are worn at the hips or waist, and may be held up by
their own fastenings, a belt, or suspenders (braces). Leggings are form-fitting trousers of a
clingy material, often knitted cotton and lycra.
Nowadays various man-made fabrics like polyester, viscose etc. or their blends are used in
creating trouser of better quality and functionality
1.5. Product History
Trousers first enter recorded history in the 6th century BCE, with the appearance of horse-
riding Iranian peoples in Greek ethnography. At this time, not only the Persians, but also
allied Central Asian peoples such as the Bactrians, Armenians, and the Tigraxauda Scythians
are known to have worn them. Trousers are believed to have been worn by both sexes
among these early users.
The ancient Greeks used the term anaxyrides for the trousers worn by eastern nations
and " sarabara for the loose trousers worn by the Scythians.
Republican Rome viewed the draped clothing of Egypt, Babylon, Greece, and Minoan (Crete)
culture as an emblem of civilization and disdained trousers as the mark of barbarians.
About 1760 most men begin wearing breeches, a tight garment worn from the waist to the
knee with stockings covering the rest of the leg, "Britches" was an informal word for
breeches. Prior to this men were wearing various form if skirts and dresses (but that's
another story).
Pantaloons (where we get the word pants) were made popular in 1812 by George Bryan
"Beau" Brummell who wore his with a foot strap (like modern ski pants) to keep the pants
tight and avoid creases. Brummell, buddy to the future Hind George IV, developed a dress
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code that anyone, not just royalty, could follow. He dispensed fashion tips and stressed
cleanliness (a novel idea for the time).
During the French Revolution, the male citizens of France adopted a working-class costume
including ankle-length trousers, or pantaloons, in place of the aristocratic knee-breeches.
The new garment of the revolutionaries differed from that of the ancien regime upper
classes in three ways: It was loose where the style for breeches had most recently been
form-fitting, it was ankle length where breeches had generally been knee-length for more
than two centuries, and they were open at the bottom while breeches were fastened. This
style was introduced to England in the early 19th century, by Beau Brummell, and by mid-
century had supplanted breeches as fashionable street wear. At this point, even knee length
pants adopted the open bottoms of trousers and were worn by young boys, for sports, and
in tropical climates.
Pantaloon first appeared as an English word in the 1600's and from the Italian comedy
character Pantaleone who wore the first loose "clowns pants". Eventually the characters
name came to mean the pants he wore. In England pants still refers only to underwear.
The French revolution of 1789 was also a revolt against breeches as being too upper class.
The country peasant trouser look was in.
Trousers probably derived from the words trousers-- drawers, trousses--trunk hose, and/or
trousse--to cover, truss. They were looser than the tight pantaloon were favored for daytime
wear while pantaloons were more evening attire. Trousers were over breeches when
horseback riding to keep the more formal clothes clean.
Sailors had been wearing the looser fit work trousers since the 1580s since they allowed
them to roll up the legs for wading ashore or climbing rigging.
In 1846 Sir Harry Lumsden, commanding as English troop in Punjab, India traded in his
bright white trousers for pajama bottoms to find relief from the heat. To disguise them he
colored them to blend with the local terrain using mazari, a native plant. Thus the birth of
Khaki, the Hindu word for "dust". Khaki went from India to the Kaffir War in South Africa in
1851, and then after the Sudan Wars and Afghan Campaign of 1878 it was adopted in 1884
as official uniform. The same year khaki-order dye was adopted by other armies including
America for the Spanish-America War in 1898.Short pants were also an English military
invention to keep defending the far flung Empire. Bermuda shorts were won down to theknee and named after the British island.
Oscar Wild tried reintroduce breeches in 1890, but wasnt successful until 1925 .The
measurement of these loose pants at the leg bottom reached even 40 inches!! Invented and
embraced by English Oxford University students, Bags were inspired by the loose trousers
that oarsmen slipped on over their shorts. The extreme fashion did not last long, and
gradually dwindled from1928.
Although not s extreme, another attempt at wide bottoms came when Pierre Cardinpopularized bell bottoms in the 60's as a reaction to the new narrow shoulder suits. Jeans
were also effected and affected during that time.
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Another word which is interchangeable with pants and trousers is slacks, which was coined
by the Haggar Corporation in the 1940s as a promotion for their casuals pants, to be worn
during your "slack" time between work and sports.
Sailors may have played a role in the worldwide dissemination of trousers as a fashion. In
the 17th and 18th centuries, sailors wore baggy trousers known as galligaskins. Sailors also
pioneered the wearing of jeans, trousers made of denim. These became more popular in the
late 19th century in the American West because of their ruggedness and durability
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2. Product Analysis
The garment we replicated is a basic mens fomal pants made of 65% polyester and 35% viscose.Thegarment is made for European consumers by the brand Marks and Spencersmanufactured
by K Mohan Limited in Bangalore.
2.2. Reason for choosing the garment
One of the main reasons behind selecting this garment is that we wanted to make something
which we have not done before as during our course-curriculum in garment construction we
didnt get a chance to know about the finer details of creating a trouser
Moreover as both of us had undergone our internships at shirt manufacturing units our
knowledge of trousers, such an important part of mens attire and one of the most sought after
apparel products, taking up our project in mens formal trousers was both a challenge and a new
learning experience.
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Our product which is manufactured by K. Mohan Pvt. Ltd. for European consumers by Marks &
Spencer is in itself an international quality product and helped is in analysing the finer details of
construction and quality parameters.
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2.3. Process of Product Development
There are a number of processes which were included in the product development process. Beginning
from the very nascent stage of research it runs upto shipping and in some cases upto sales.
The various processes undertaken for the analysis and development of the product whichwe had taken from our sample productincluded various stages starting from the
1. Analysis of the sample
2. Sourcing of the materials required
3. Preparation of the bill ofmaterial.
4. Tech-pack
5. Test report
6. Developmentof the patterns,
7. Markerplanning
8. Spreading and cutting
9. Stitching
10. Finishing and
11. Packaging with a report
in general, the following course of actions is followed in product development process
of apparels
Research
Design
Concept
Market
Screening
FabricSourcing
Prototypepattern
Sample fit
Patternadoption
TestingProduction
pattern
Grading
Marker Plan
Spreading Cutting
Sewing
Finishing
Packaging
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2.4. Garment components classification:
Fabric Shell fabric
Pocketing fabric
Trims Zipper
Thread
Velcro
Labels
Buttons
2.5 Garment component details:
Shell fabric 65% viscose 35%
Polyester
Trims fabric (pocketing) 100% cotton
Eyelets 8
Piping in side seam 2, white color,
polyester
Velcro 2, CF and back pocket
Zipper 1, plastic
Wash care label, Size label and brand label On back pocket lining
Welt pockets 1, Back side
Side slant pockets 2, both sides
Thread 2 ply polyesterthread
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2.6Process of conversion
The process of converting the concept to the product development can be summarised as the
following activities:
2.6.1Study of the garment
2.6.1.1Design
First step is to study the design of the garment and the feasibility to produce it with the available
resources.
2.6.1.2Material requirement
After studying the design, we list down the material requirement for the garment
2.6.2.Sourcing of materials
2.6.2.1Sourcing of fabric
The first process is to source the fabric as the lead time for fabric is more than other materials
required.
2.6.2.2Sourcing of trims
Trims sourcing is done after fabric sourcing.
2.6.3 Testing
Different types of tests are performed before producing the garment to make sure that theproduct is as per the standard.
We have done the following tests in our garment:
1.Fiber composition
1. Colourfastness to washing
2. Colourfastness to rubbing
3. Colourfastness to light
4. Breaking strength
5. Yarn count
6. Seam slippage
7. Fabric type/ structure
8. Yarn twist etc.
2.6.3.Development of pattern
2.6.3.1Pattern making
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Generally patterns of medium size are made and then they are graded to different sizes based on
the grading chart.
1.1.1. Pattern grading
From the basic size, increment or decrement in measurements are done to make the garments of
different sizes.
1.1.2. Marker making
Marker is planned before cutting for best efficiency and utilization of fabric.
1.2.Conversion of final product
1.2.1. Operation breakdown
Before starting the construction, the garment is broken down into small operation and arranged
in sequence.
1.2.2. Construction
Final step to convert it into final product is the construction of garment. This includes the
cutting, fusing, sewing and finishing activities required to accomplish the construction of a
garment.
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2.4 Product Specification Sheet
A product specification sheet or Spec sheet or a t e c h p a c k is informative sheet whichencompasses all the specifications of the requirements before embarking on the garment
manufacturing process. It contains all the details of any specific style of the garment. This
document is usually prepared by the designer and finalized in consultation with the
merchandisers, and then forwarded to bulk sampling department or to the production
department for the reference and guide for bulk manufacturing.
The Objective of any Spec sheet is, once techpack for any style is frozen, the production
department must be able to go ahead with the manufacturing process without having to refer
back to the designer for any aspect of production. The merchandisers are thus able to go ahead
and ensure that the required material as per the techpack is made available to the production
department, in the right quantities at the right time. The marketing department can use this
document in their presentation, particularly to the large format stores and their key customers.
The preparation of a techpack and using it to manage and co-ordinate various activities in
production brings in efficiency within the company as, various departments refers to the
common document for discussion or carrying out any activity.
Almost all garment manufacturing companies prepare a techpack. In many cases, the cutting
instructions or job card issued to production acts as the techpack. However, the details given in
the techpack are likely to vary with the sizes of the company. Large manufacturing companies
generally have a detailed techpack for each of the styles under production, for the simple reason
that any manufacturing that is not in line with what was desired results in a huge production
loss. For exporters, preparation of a techpack is almost mandatory, as the buyers prefer to signon the techpack before placing the order or would send in a techpack themselves.
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TROUSER TECHPACK ILLUSTRATION SHEET
LINE
GROUP
Formal
BRAN
D
Marks
&
Spenc
ers
LINE
Smart
fit
TARGET
Mens
FAMILY
Trouser
RELEASE
10
/03/201
2
SEASON
Summer
Spring 12
FIT AS
mart
LOOK
Durable press
HOW TO PACK THIS GARMENT
ms: Folded from supplier: FOLDED to shop: Folded
Recovered:
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TROUSER TECHPACK FABRIC SPECIFICATION SHEET
LINE
GROUP
Formal
BRAND
Marks
&
Spencer
s
LINE
Smart
fit
TARGET
Mens
FAMILY
Trouser
RELEASE
10/03/2
012
SEASON
Summer Spring 12
NO
COMPONENT DESCRIPTION POSITION
1. Main fabric PV blended fabric
GSM 160
FIBRE
CONTENT
Polyester and
viscose
FABRICATIO
N
Polyester 65%
Viscose 35%
WEAVE Plain
COUNT 52 x 48
YARN COUNT 2/30 x 2/30
FINISH Wrinkle free
. Second fabric Poplin
GSM 120
FIBRE
CONTENT
Cotton
FABRICATIO
N
Cotton 100%
WEAVE Plain
COUNT 132 x 64
YARN COUNT 40 x 40
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TROUSER TECHPACK ACCESSORY SPECIFICATION SHEET
LINE
GROUP
Formal
BRAN
D
Marks
&
Spenc
er
LINE
Smart
fit
TARGET
Mens
FAMILY
Trouser
RELEAS
E
10/03/
2012
SEASON
Summer Spring
12
ACCESSORIES
NO. COMPONENT DESCRIPTION POSITION
1 Tape Same Colorway
6 mm width.
Inside to the centre back.
Inside to the waist band and along
with the middle line.
Button Plastic with Same Colorway16 mm diameter
At the distance of 10 cm from right flyedge and centre of waist band.
Both 20 mm below from upper
attachment of body and back pocket
(centre of the horizontal line).
3 Zipper Same Colorway Zipper attachment at front crotch.
4 Fusing Microdot Attachment of back pocket shell with
body.
At zipper attachments.
5 Main label Applied to inside right back-pocket at
the centre.
COMPONENTS OF PACKAGING
NO
DESCRIPTION QUANTITY
1 POLYBAG - Neutral polybag thick 3 1
TAG - Marks & Spencerstag,size label,wash care label 1
3 POLYTHREAD 2 ply 1
4 Zipper 1
5 Button 1
TROUSER TECHPACK INSTRUCTION SHEET
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LINE
GROUP
Formal
BRAND
Marks &
Spencers
LINE
Smart fit
TARGE
T
Mens
FAMILY
Trouse
r
RELEAS
E
10/03/
2012
SEASON
Summer
Spring 12
CARE SYMBOLS
NSTRUCTIONS
LABELS
MAIN LABEL: applied to inside right back-pocket at the centre.COMPOSITION - CARE SYMBOLS
LABEL: applied to inside waist band to the left front at the distance of 11 cm from the zipper.
PRICE TAG
PRICE TAG: applied with polythread 18 cm long on back pocket liningPACKING
PACKING: folded in double way in vertical sense with the right back visible size 12; folded indouble way in vertical sense with the front inside the folding and then folded again with the
right back visible for the remaining sizes.
POLYBAG: During the first phases of garment folding, insert the desiccant bag to the insidefolding itself.
PRODUCTION
BARTACKS: Bartacks having variable length taken from cm.1 to cm 1.4 must be adjusted to 28stitches. Bartacks having variable length taken from cm.1.5 to cm must be adjusted to 36 stitches.
TESTING: abrasion resistance, shrinkage, tear strength & Hygral expansion test.COLOURWAY
Main fabric, second fabric, tape, and sewing thread should be of same colour code.
TROUSER TECHPACK OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET
LINE
GROUP
Formal
BRAN
D
Marks
&
Spence
LINE
Smart
fit
TARGET
Mens
FAMILY
Trouser
RELEAS
E
10/03/
2012
SEASON
Summer
Spring 12
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rs
NO. OPERATION STITCHTYPE MACHINEUSED SPI SEAM
Front Pocket Preparation
1 Slant Pocket preparation 301 SNLS 8 SSs, SSc, SSj
Bartacking - Bartacki
ng
- -
Zipper Attachment
1 Fly formation + Zipper attachment 301 SNLS 8 SSs, SSc, SSj
Raw edge finishing 301 SNLS 8 Bs
3 J-stitch 301 SNLS 8 -
4 Bartacking - Bartacki
ng
- -
Double Lip Welt Preparation (Back Pocket)
1 Lip preparation 301 SNLS 8 SSs
Fusing - Fusing - -
3 Pocket Shell Preparation 301 SNLS 8 Ls
nseam/ Sideseam
1 Inseam/Sideseam Attachment 301 SNLS 8 SSi
Raw edge Finishing (Overlock) 503 3-thread
overlock
- -
3 Raw edge Finishing (crotch) 301 SNLS 8 Bs
Hemming
1 Hemming 301 SNLS 8 SSp
TROUSER TECHPACK OPERATION SPECIFICATION SHEET
LINE
GROUP
BRAN
D
Marks
LINE
Smart
TARGET
Mens
FAMILY
Trouser
RELEAS
E
10/03/
SEASON
Summer
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Formal &
Spence
rs
fit 2012 Spring 12
NO. OPERATION STITCH
TYPE
MACHINE
USED
SPI SEAM
Waist band
1 Waist band preparation 301 SNLS 8 Bs
Inner (supporting) layer
preparation and attachment withmain body.
201 HAND
NEEDLE
3 Bs
3 Loop attachment to main body - Bartacki
ng
- -
4 Waist band attachment with main
body
301 SNLS 8 Bs
5 Loop attachment to waistband - Bartacki
ng
- -
TROUSER TECHPACK MEASUREMENT SPECIFICATION
SHEET
LINEGROUP
BRAND
LINE
Smart
TARGET
Boys &
FAMILY RELEASE
SEASON
Summer
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Formal Marks
&
Spence
rs
fit Mens Trouser 10/03/
2012
Spring 12
NO. MEASUREMENTS 26 28 30 32 34
ABDOMINAL
ARC
FRONT 8 9 9 9 7/8 10 3/8
BACK 8 8 3/8 8 9 1/8 9 5/8
HIP ARC FRONT 9 9 9 10 1/8 10 5/8
BACK 9 9 7/8 10 10 5/8 11 1/8
HIP DEPTH FRONT 9 9 9 9 10
BACK 8 9 9 9 9
4 CROTCH DEPTH 10 10 10 10 11
KNEE 14 14 15 15 16
CALF 12 12 13 13 14
SIDE HIP DEPTH 9 9 9 10 10
ANKLE 10 10 10 10 11
WAIST TO ANKLE 38 38 39 39 40
WAIST TO KNEE 23 23 3/8 23 24 1/8 24
WAIST TO FLOOR 40 40 41 41 42
0 CROTCH LENGTH 26 26 27 28 24
VERTICAL TRUNK 62 63 65 66 68
1 UPPER THIGH 21 22 23 24 25
MID THIGH 18 23 19 20 21
2 WAIST 26 28 30 32 34
Pocket Measurements
BACK POCKET WIDTH 7
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LIP WIDTH
BACK POCKET LENGTH 6
4 FRONT POCKET LENGTH 7
LOOP LENGTH 2
Measurement Guidelines;
500 Relaxed Measure from side to side along the inside of the waistband at the top edge.
501Extended For extended measurements, measure as above with elastic or knit fully extended.
601 Hip/Seat Lay the garment flat. The center front waistband will lay approximately 1" below
the center back waistband. From the fly bartack, measure straight across the garment from side
to side.
703 Thigh Width Lay the garment flat and fold the pant leg along the inseam. Measure 1" below
the crotch seam intersection, from inseam to outside fold, perpendicular to the front crease.
3. Test Report
The fabric was tested at INTERTEK INDIA Pvt Ltd which is a which is a trusted name in facbrictesting parameters and performs different types of fabric tests. For testing they follow ISO as
well as American standards.
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5. Raw Material Analysis
Material procurement is a time taking process which aims at scouring thesupplier market to get the best of the material in terms of quality as well as price. While
doing the material procurementanalysis of our garment we !rstof all made the bill of
material of what are the things that we would be needing and in whatquantity.Then we
decided the quality as per the speci!cations and !nally we went to the market for
enlisting which are the supplier that could manage with the supply of the material with
the top quality and shortest lead time.
POLYESTER VISCOSE FABRIC
This is a rich mixture of both polyester and viscose fibre giving lustre and durability to the
fabric. This comes in various blends from 50/50 to 80/20.
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Polyester Viscose Fabric are known to give comfort excel with added value of durability &
easy maintenance.
Polyester Viscose Fabric is very durable: resistant to most chemicals, stretching and
shrinking, wrinkle resistant, mildew and abrasion resistant.
Our product consists of 65% polyester & 35% viscose
TRIMS & ACCESSORIES
The product consists of the following trims and accessories Interlining : of 100% cotton. Threads : Zippers Buttons Fusing Labels
2.
3.
4.Sourcing
4.1. Fabric sourcing
4.1.1.Body fabric- 65% viscose 35%polyester
Supplier 1
Supplier name The Karnataka Handloom Development
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Corporation Limited
Address "Venkatadri Heights" Kiresur Complex,
Unkal Cross, Hubli - 580 031, India
Phone no +(91)-(836)-2277504/2277509
+(91)-9448455754
Contact Person Mr. Sushil Mehta
Website http://www.khdcltd.com/
Min order quantity 100 meters
Lead time 45 days
Rate Rs 350 per meter
Supplier 2
Supplier nameSoimex Garments Services Pvt. Ltd.
Address G-9, RamanashreeChambers,37, LadyCurzon Road, Bangalore- 560001
Phone no 91-80-22201823/30618655/22263404
Contact Person Mr. Mahendra Nager
Min order quantity 500 meter
Lead time 30-35 days
Rate Rs 300 per meter
4.1.2.Pocketing fabric- 100% cotton
Supplier 1
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Supplier name
Pallava Textiles Limited
Address 24, Sankari Main Road, Pallipalayam,
Erode - 638 006, India
Phone no +(91)-9843132070
Contact Person Mr. S.K. Raja
Website http://www.vortexyarn.com/
Min order quantity 100 meters
Lead time 30 days
Rate Rs 65 per meter
Supplier 2
Supplier name Khemchand Bros
Address 126, Devatha Market, Chickpet, Bangalore
Phone no 080- 22243419
Contact Person Mr. N.S Chhabra
Min order quantity 100 meters
Lead time 20 days
Rate Rs 70 per meter
4.2. Trims suppliers4.2.1.Buttons
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Supplier 1
Supplier nameGajendra Enterprises
Address No. 307, Pette Chinnappa Estate,
Kamakshipalya, Bengaluru - 560 079,
Phone no +(91)-(80)-23580649
+(91)-9341276368/9880679502
Min order quantity 10 gross
Lead time 8-10 days
Rate Rs. 180 per gross
Supplier 2
Supplier name Mahaveer Button House
Address Shop-1, 144/38, V R Complex, Kumbarpet,
Kumbarpet, Bengaluru
Phone no 080 22222547
Min order quantity Any quantity
Lead time 10 days
Rate Rs. 200 per gross
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4.2.2.Fusing
Supplier 1
Supplier nameBharath Fushing
Address S. F. No 28, K .Kamaraj Nagar, K P G Nagar,
4th Cross Extension Ganapathy, Coimbatore
- 641 006, India
Phone no : +(91)-9865021628/9865394201
Min order quantity 2 rolls (one roll has 25 mt)
Lead time 5 days
Rate Rs. 200 per roll
Supplier 2
Supplier nameApparel Services Network
Address G 2, Archana Apartments, 26 Norris road,
Richmond town,Bangalore
Phone no +(91)-(422)3025469/6450983
Min order quantity 1 roll
Lead time 10 days
Rate Rs. 175-190 per roll
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4.2.3.Labels
Supplier 1
Supplier name Jaya associates
Address 21st floor, Gullappa building, R.S. Palya,
Kammanahali main road, Bangalore
Phone no 080-2454100
Min order quantity 1500
Lead time 10 days
Rate Main label- Rs. 0.50 / label
Size label-Rs 0.25 / label
Care label- Rs 0.50/ label
Supplier 1
Supplier nameInfomax labels solutions
Address C Babureddy Industrial Compound, Opposite
Bhavani Jewellers, Begur Road, Hongasandra,
Bommanahalli, Bangalore
Phone no 080-66498743
Min order quantity 1000
Lead time 10 days
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Rate Main label- Rs. 0.50 / label
Size label-Rs 0.25 / label
Care label- Rs 0.50/ label
4.2.4.Zipper
Supplier 1
Supplier nameZip Industries Limited
Address
304 A, 100 Feet Road, Indiranagar,
Bengaluru
Phone no 080 25251435
Min order quantity 500
Lead time 15 days
Rate Rs 2.5-3
Supplier 2
Supplier nameKesar Fasteners
Address 12/24, Baba Market, O.K. road, Bangalore
Phone no N/A
Min order quantity 500
Lead time 15 days
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Rate Rs 3
4.2.5.Thread
Supplier 1
Supplier nameMadura coats pvt ltd India
Address 7th floor, Jupiter block, Prestige tech park,
Ring road, Bangalore
Phone no +(91)-(80)3025469/6450983
Min order quantity 5 boxes (1 box- 10 cubes; 1 cube-500 mt)
Lead time 5 days
Rate Rs 80-90 per box
Supplier 2
Supplier nameVardhman Threads
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Address 101 & 102, J B Kaval, K.H.D. colony, Nandini
Layout post, Yeshwantpur, Bangalore
Phone no 080-41248892
Min order quantity 3 boxes
Lead time 5 days
Rate Rs 80 per box
5. Bill 0f Material
Supplier name Description Cost(INR) UnitCons./trouser Cost/trouser(INR) Clearing /Freight@20% (INR) Total Cost/trouser (INR)T & S Buttons -Srilanka Plastic Buttons-16L 75 2 1.04 0.20 1.24Guttermann Thread-120 Tkt 536 200+30 yard 8.5 8.5
Style # T18-00185/3231H
Description Formal Trouser
Fabrication Viscose -35%, Polyester-65%
Construction (30s)
Special Finish -
Proto Size L
Label Marks and Spencers
Season Fall 11
Gender Male
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Mahaveer Labels -
Bangalore Main Label 0.55 1 0.55 0.55Size label 0.3 1 0.30 0.30
Manu Graphics -
Bangalore
Wash Care
label(satin) 0.5 1 0.50 0.50Hang Tag 2.000 1 2.000 2.00
Barcode Stickers 1.000 1 1.000 1.00PVC Patti 2.8 1 2.800 2.80Paper Patti 0.38 1 0.380 0.38
Tissue Paper 1.57 2 3.140 3.14Back Support 3.2 1 3.200 3.20
Polybag 2.2 1 2.200 2.20Y-Clips 0.54 3 1.620 1.62
Silver Head Pin 0.12 2 0.240 0.24Manu Graphics -
Bangalore Carton/Pre-packsticker 0.83 1 0.830 0.83Giriraj packaging -
Bangalore Carton Box 75.00 0.050 3.750 3.75Madeira -
Bangalore Microdot fusing 50 0.25 2.5 2.5zipper 100 1 5 5Total 39.75
Material Item Type/Placement Quantity /Unit Color Cost(Rs.)
FABRIC
Viscose -35%,
Polyester-65%
Body 1.2mtr Grey 350/mtr(420
100% cotton Pocket Bag &
waistband
1mtr White 65/mtr
TOTAL 485
TRIMS
Button Plastic 2 Grey
Zipper 1 Grey
Fusing 0.25 White
LABELS
Note : the
dimensions are
mentioned as
length and
breadth
Main Label:1/21/8
13/8
below
waistband
1 Black
Size label woven
label size:2/1.5
25/8
below
waistband
1 White
Type : Black
Font : Arial
Narrow
1
Wash
Care:25/8
/1
25/8
below
waistband
1 White
Type : Black
0.75
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THREADS
Thread 2 ply THROUGHOUT ,
serging 5 thread
O/L
200 yards Grey
Thread 2 ply Body : Lock stitch
at the pocketfinish, bottom
hem
25
White
Thread 2 ply Body : stitch at the
waist band
34 White
Total 485+39.75 = Rs. 524.75
7. Operation Breakdown
S. NO. OPERATION DESCRIPTION MACHINE TYPE SAM
1 W/B Extension SNLS 0.32
2 Back Pocket Facing Auto Facing Attach 0.18
3Front Pocket Facing Auto Facing Attach 0.38
4 Front Pocket O/L 5T O/L 0.32
5 Front Pocket Turning Manual 0.23
6 Fly Serging 5T O/L 0.30
7 Fly stitch to Front SNLS 0.26
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20Stitch Side Pocket to Front 5T O/L 0.62
21
22 Side Pocket Ironing Steam Press 0.23
25Side Pocket Tacking BAR tack 0.69
26
27 Back Panel Serging Auto 5T O/L 0.28
29 Dart Marking Manual+Template 0.1930 Auto Dart Making Auto SNLS 0.48
32Auto-welt Auto Welt m/c 0.57
33
34Back Pocket Corner Stitch SNLS 0.76
35
36 Welt Back Press Steam Press 0.38
37 Welt Front Press Steam Press 0.31
38 Back Pocket Loop Marking Manual+Template 0.27
39
Back Pocket Loop Attach SNLS 0.7140
41 Welt Closing SNLS 0.28
42
Back Pocket Pouch Closing SNLS 0.9543
44
45 Welt Pocket Bartack Bartack 0.33
46 Back Loop Bartack Bartack 0.05
47 Back Loop Press Steam Press 0.06
48 Back Loop Stitch SNLS 0.08
49 J Fly Zip Attach SNCS w Roller Feed 0.0850 Cut and Gape Zip YKK Zip Cutting m/c 0.04
51 Straight Fly Zip Attach SNLS 0.14
52Inseam O/L 5T O/L 0.65
53
54Sideseam O/L
5T O/L0.58
55 Auto 5T O/L
56Seam Press
Corosel Press0.75
57 Corosel Press
58 Front Panel serging 5T O/L 0.25
1W/B Iron Steam Press 0.68
2
3 W/B Attachment Marking Manual + Template 0.33
4Seat Seam Joining
5T O/L0.65
5 5T O/L
6Beltloop Attachment SNLS 0.49
7
8W/B Attachment SNLS 1.009
10
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11 Left Extention Lock SNLS 0.31
12 Extention Turn & Press Steam Press 0.39
13 Right Extention Lock SNLS 0.29
14 Rt Extention Hook Attach Hook Attaching m/c 0.30
15 W/B Center Back Marking Manual + Wax marker 0.36
16 Lt Extention Bar Attach Manual 0.31
17 Front Rise Stitch SNLS 0.3018 0.33
19 J Stitch SNLS 0.51
21W/B Label Attach SNLS 0.58
22
23Wash Care & Size Label
AttachSNLS 0.33
24 J Stitch Bar Tack Bartacking m/c 0.36
25 Bar tack Front Pocket Bartacking m/c 0.28
26 Seat Seam Press Steam Press 0.30
27 W/B Button Hole Keyhole Making m/c 0.27
28 Back Pocket Button Attach Button Attaching m/c 0.31
29Inline Inspection
Manual0.67
30 Manual
31 Label Fold & Tack SNLS 0.28
35W/B Button Attach and ditch
stitchButton Attaching m/c 1.53
37 Belt Loop Down Bartacking m/c 0.38
38Belt Loop Up
Bartacking m/c0.68
39 Bartacking m/c
40 Bottom Hem O/L FLAT LOCK 0.39
41 Buttom Blind Hem MANUAL 0.36
43
Trimming Trimmer 2.18
44
45
46
47
48
49 Endline Inspection (Inside
Out)Manual
0.75
5051
Endline Inspection (Straight) Manual0.67
52
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510 Front Rise Measure straight down from top of waistband to intersection of crotch seam.
Measure flat without stretching seam.
511 Back Rise Measure straight down from top of waistband to intersection of crotch seam.
Measure flat without stretching seam.
700 Inseam Lay the garment flat and fold the pant leg along the inseam. Measure from the crotchseam intersection down to the bottom of the garment, following the seam contour.
702 Outseam Measure from the top of waistband, or if pant has no waistband, measure from top
of the garment to the bottom of the leg, following the contour of the side seam.
802 Knee Measure at the center point (half-way point) of the inseam. Measure straight across
the leg from fold to fold or crease to crease.
900g Opening Measure on the inside, straight across from side to side
6. Production planning
Before production, proper planning is very necessary based on the quantity of the order. Here
we have assumed the order quantity to be 10,000 garments. So we have planned based on this
many order quantity.
6.1.Warehouse planning
Per garment fabric consumption= 1.2+.05=1.25m
Fabric width = 60
Fabric length required for 10000 garments= 10000 X 1.25= 12500m
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Per roll fabric quantity average= 105 m
No of rolls required= 12500/105 ~ 119 rolls
If one rack can hold 10 rolls then no of racks required= 119/10~12 racks
In one rack, there will be 3 levels, so total no of racks actually required= 12/3= 4
6.2.Spreading
Total order quantity=10000 pcs = 10000
M: L:XL =1:2:1
Fabric consumption=1.25 mtr per garment
Marker way= 4 way
Marker Length = 4 x 1.25 = 5 mt
Lay length= 5 mt + 2 cm +2 cm= 5.04 mt
1 lay=4 garments
Thus for 10000 pcs number of plies required = 10000/4 = 2500
No. of plies in a lay = 60
No. of lays = 10000/(4x60)~ 42 lays
Time of spreading for one ply= 1 min
Total time for spreading one lay= 60 X 1= 60 min= 1 hr
Total time required to spread all lays= 42 X 1 hr= 42 hrs
6.3.Cutting
Total time taken to cut one lay= 30 min
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So total time required to cut all 42 lays= 30 X 42 min= 1260 min= 21 hrs
6.4.Sewing
Order quantity= 10000
SAM= 13 (from the operation bulletin- given in subsequent pages)
Operators required= 38 (from the operation bulletin- given in subsequent pages)
Efficiency= 70 %
Per day available no of hours= 8
Let no of days required to finish the production be x.
Then,
Efficiency= (SAM X Total order quantity) / (Total working min available X Manpower)= (SAM X Total order quantity) / (x X Total working min per day X Manpower)
So,
x = (SAM X Order quantity)/ (Efficiency X Total working min per day X Manpower)
= (13 X 10000) /(0.7 X 8 X 60 x 38)
=10.2 days ~ 11 days
6.5.Finishing
Time taken for thread trimming= 15 sec/ garment
Time taken for measurement checking = 15 sec / garment
Time taken in folding= 10 sec/ garment
No of workers required= 1+1+1= 3 workers
Total time taken in finishing= 40 sec / garment
Time to pack all garments = 40 X 10000 / (60 x 60) hours
= 111.11 hours
As there are three workers for finishing,
So actual no of hours required= 111.11/3 hours= 37.03 hours
So no of days required= 4.62 ~ 5 days
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6.6.Packaging
Time taken to pack one garment=l5 sec
Total time taken to pack all garments= (15 X 10000 )sec
= 150000/(60 x 60) hours
= 41.7 hrs
No of days required= 41.7/8 = 5.2 days ~ 5days
Production Planning
Here, we are assuming that for the order of 10,000 garments we are taking only 2
days ofsewing, hence each day we will be producing only 5000 garments. However, due
to low efficiency each day we are able to produce only 4800 garment pieces.
Assumptions
Garment = mens formal trouser
Annual Production = 15,60,000 gmts/year
Monthly Production = 1,30,000 gmts/month
Daily Production (26 days) = 5000 gmts/day
Maximum achieved efficiency = 65 %Maximum capacity efficiency = 100 %
Daily working hour = 8 hrs. (480 minutes)
SAM (sewing) = 29.6 min
Calculations
1. No. of workstations and Lines
TotalSAM required/ day = 5000 x 29.7(no. of pants x SAM)
= 118,500 min
Minutes available at 100 % = 118,500 min
Minutes available at 65 % = 118,500/0.65 min
efficiency
= 182,308 min
Now considering the Operation bulletin (see Annexure) No. of
machine/operator in 1 line is 62.
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1 helper/5 50
12
Total workforce = 310 persons
Actual minutes available in 1 line is 29,760 min(= 62 x 480) No. of
line at 100% efficiency = 118,500/29,760
= 4 (approximation of 3.98)
No. of line at 65% efficiency = 182,308/29,760
= 7 (approximation of 6.12)
Totalno. of operators in 4 lines= 248 operators (62 x 4) Total
no. of operators in 7 lines= 434 operators (62 x 7)
Hence, total no. of machines/operators in each line is 62. For the ideal case we
need 4 lines for producing 5000 garments, however in practical cases we need 7
lines as efficiency is never 100 %.
Calculation of extra time needed for producing 5000 garments,with4lines (62 machines/operators each line )
65%achievable efficiency
SMV = 36.56 min. (at 100% efficiency SAM= SMV, at lower efficiency SMV=SAM/
efficiency)
TotalSMV required/ day = 5000 x 36.56(no. of pantss x SMV)
= 182,800 min
Actual minutes available in 4 line is 119,040 min(= 62 x 4 x 480) (at 100% efficiency)
Minutes available at 65% = 119,040/0.65
efficiency
= 183,139 min
Hence, extra minutes needed = 183,139 - 182,800 min
= 339 min (5.65 hours)
Hence, extra minutes needed to complete the same order of 5000 garments at 65%
efficiency with resources of 100% efficiency is 5.65 hours.
Considering,Totalno. of operator = 248 operators
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2. Storage
Fabric required in 1 garment
Fabric length in 1 roll
=
=
1.7 meter
110 meter
Fabric consumption in 1 day = 9350 m (=1.7 x 5500)
No. of rolls used in 1 day = 85 rolls (=9350/110)
Now to maintain at least 3 days buffer stock, we should have space for 250 rolls
(=85 x 3).
Width of roll = 60 inches
Width of racks = 48 inches (consider 6show-off in both sides)
Diameter of 1 roll = 9 inches
Maximum stack height ofrolls = 4 rolls
Space ofmovmt
. in each rack = 12 inchesSpace between two racks = 48 inches (=9x 4 + 12) Height
of the rack stand = 12 feet (consisting of 3 racks)
No. of rolls in one rack = 40 rolls (=10 stack x 4)
No. of rolls in one rack stand = 120 rolls
Totalno. of rack stands = 2 (=250/120)
One stacking rack stand for pre-inspection storage.
2 Operator will be using forkliftfor roll transportation.
Storage section will need 3 rack stands of (12x 9x 4), and 2 operators.
3. Cutting Floor
Assumption
Daily prodn. @ 10% buffer = 5500 gmts/day
Considering the cutting section to be automated, marker to be a 4 way marker & 1 lay
consisting of 110 spreads of 7 metres each.
Max. achievable efficiency = 70%
SAM (cutting/gmt) = 0.34 min
3 Operators are required for 1 cutting table/machine.
Calculations
Time taken in spreading and cutting is 2.5 hours (= 150 min)
Hence, in 2.5 hours, 440 pantss cut pieces are obtained.
Total minutes required/day = 5500 x 0.34 (pantss x SAM)
at 100% efficiency= 1870 mins.
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of helpers(1h/3 6
2
Total workforce = 26
Total minutes required/day = 1870/0.70 min
at 70% efficiency
= 2672 min
Actual minutes available at spreading table is 480 min (= 8 x 60).
No. of tables needed = 2672/480
= 6
Here, we are not including a time analysis for the 70% efficiency , i.e. how much time
would we need to work at resources with capacity of 100% efficiency; the efficiency is
low from ideal case because of the worker and not because ofmachine. As we areconsidering both spreading & cutting in one go, i.e., manual and automated operations in
one step assumptions are made for simpli!cation.
No. of operators(6 x 3) = 18 operators
4. Bundling & Ticketing
1 pants = 24 pcs.
Totalno. ofpcs.
1 bundle
Totalno. ofbundles
=
=
=
132,000 (5500 x 24 )
25 pcs.
5280 (132,000/25)
1 bundle,SAM
Efficiency
Total minutes required
at 100% efficiency
Total minutes required
=
=
=
=
=
1.5 min
65%
5280 x 1.5
7920 min
7920/0.65
at 65% efficiency
= 12185 min
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1 worker
Totalno. of workers
=
=
=
480 working minutes
12185/480
26 workers
No. of workers = 26 workers
No. ofhelpers(1h/5w) = 5 helpers
Total workforce = 31 persons
Hence, in all cutting"oor requires 57 persons (=26+31).
5. Finishing
Daily production = 4800 pantss
Efficiency = 65%
SAM = 1 min (ironing)
= 1.5 min (trimming & stain removing)
= 1 min (folding & packing)
Total SAM = 3.5 min
Ironing
Total min. required for ironing = 4800 x 1 min
= 4800 minMinutes req. at 65% efficiency = 4800/0.65
= 7385 min
1 operator = 480 min
No. of operators for ironing = 7385/480
= 16 operators
Trimming& Stain removing
Total min. required = 4800 x 1.5 min
= 7200 min
Minutes req. at 65% efficiency = 7200/0.65 min
= 11077 min
1 operator = 480 min
No. of operators forT & SR = 11077/480
= 23 operators
Folding & Packing
Total min. required = 4800 x 1 min
= 4800 min
Minutes req. at 65% efficiency = 4800/0.65
= 7385 min
1 operator = 480 min
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No. of operators for ironing = 7385/480
= 16 operators
No. of operators & helpers
Ironing = 16 operators
Trimming& Stain removing = 23 operators
Folding & Packing = 16 operators
Helpers (1h/9 op.) = 6 helpers
Total workforce = 61 persons
6. Warehousing
Daily Production = 4800 gmts.
Dimension of 1 box = 24 x 12 x 12 inches
Maximum stacking height = 7
Maximum stack height = 7 feet(=1x 7)
Capacity of 1 box = 24 garments No.
of box required = 200 (=4800/24)
Hence, 200 boxes will take = 29 stacks(=200/7) of 1 feet width and 2 feet
depthSpace occupied by 200 boxes = 2 x 29x 7(L x B x H)
SAM (Packing in Carton box) = 6 min
Total minutes required = 1200 min (=200 x 6)
1 operator = 480 min
No. of operator = 3 operators (=1200/480)
Mini MarkerMini marker is the pattern traced in consideration with the minimum wastage
of fabric in use. Here are some of the pictures which depict our fabric consumption.
The marker used would be a 4-way marker in the following ratio
M:X:XL=1:2:1
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Conclusion
After studying this subject, we got a learning experience of many activities happening in
the garment industry. Starting with the detailed product analysis, pattern making and
testing till the production and packaging, we covered almost all the phenomena
associated with an order.
This subject also gave us the knowledge about different parameters to be considered
while garment and trims testing.
This subject helped us do the complete production planning of a product; from
warehouse till finishing and packaging.
The experience learnt in the subject would help us in any product development in the
apparel industry.