8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
1/12
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
2/12
f
l.
']i.;_ri:'ls
NOTES
.
ON
THE
UNIFORM
OF
NAVAL
OFFICERS
.,
,
ComrraaxoBn
W- E.
Mav,
n,N,
.
;
Illustrated
from
Sketches by
i ,,
JonNMuNDAy
.a
'
''-
:.
'I
:.:.
:
NATIONAL
MARITIME
MUSEUM
i'
'
,
GREENI7ICH
.,''.
PRINTED
FOR
TI{E
TRUSTEES
.
'1
-,
:
'
r'
l"
.,:.'l
I
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
3/12
FOREWORD
These notes
haae been
prepared
by the
Deputy
Director,
Commander
W.
E,
May,
R,N.,
as
a
bief
introductory
suraey
of
tlte more important changes
which
haoe
taken
place
in tlrc uniform worn
by
naztal
fficers
since
it was
first
introduced
in 1748
;
a subject on which
acqtrate
information has not
hitherto
been readily accessible
in concise
form.
Tkey are
designed
to
aid
visitors
to the
Musewn
to
an understanding and
appreciation
of those
changes,
as exernplified
not
only
by
the actual
uniforms
and swords
which are
displayed, but also
by numerous
pictures exhibited
in
the
galleries.
The
sketches
haoe
been
specially
drau:n
by the Librarian, Mr.
John
Murcday, to
illustrate
a
selection af
the uniforms;
FnRNr
G.
G.
Cnnn,
Director.
NOTES
ON TFIE
UNIFORM
OF
NAVAL OFFICERS
HE
history
of
the
uniform
of
naval officers
is far
from
complete, for
changes
are
known to
have
occurred
for
which
no
instructions have
yet
been found.
A
very
interesting
point
is that
innovations have frequently
been
introduced unofficially
at
first
and
have
afterwards
been
regularised.
Thus
the
original
uniform of 1748, growing
from the
distinctive dress adopted
by
officers
of
individual
ships, followed
the
resolutions
of a
meeting
held
in
174516.
The
introduction
of
epaulettes
in 1795
was
preceded
by
their adoption
by a
number
of
officers,
for Nelson
wrote
in
L783: "
Two noble
captains
are
here, Ball and
Shepard,
you
do not
know, I believe,
either
of
them; they
wear fine
epaulettes, for
which I think them
great
coxcombs
: they
have
not
visited me, and
I
shall
not, be
assured,
court their
acquaintance
"
and "
You
may suppose
I
hold
them a little
cheap for
putting
on
part
of
any
Frenchman's uniform."
Again in
1891 the various
forms of evening dress
were
authorised after
they
had
been
worn unofficially
for some
time. In
the First World War
some officers started
wearing
their
white
tunics
with the
collars
turned
down to show
a
shirt
collar
and tie
and
in the Second, officers
when
at
sea
wore army
battle
dress
dyed blue and fitted with
shoulder
straps.
These
innovations were also
recognised
after
a
time.
The
earlier regulations
were often
far from
explicit.
They
were
not
illustrated
but
patterns
were
deposited
at
the
Admiralty
and
in
dockyards and
were intended
to
be
copied. This
lack ofconveniently
available
patterns
probably
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
4/12
Frac
Oprrcrn
Fur,r- DnEss Coar
1748
Frac
Onnrcsn
Furr Druss
CoAr 1767
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
5/12
4
l9-d
to a,good
deal of latitude,
but
by the
lgth
century
illustrated instructions
were issued
and
with uniform-makinl
in
the
hands
of
a
few
specialised
tailors
there
was less
chancE
of eccentricity. Under
these
circumstances
it
may
seern
strange that the
new rigs
should
ever
have been
allowed
to
reach
the
stage of
general
use
at
which the
Admiralty
found
it more convenient
to regularise
than to
ban them.
Before
1748
naval
officers
seem
to have
liked
to dress
themselves in red,
but,
when
a uniform
was
eventually
designed,
blue
and white
were
the colours
chosen.
Ther
is
a
story
that
these
colours
were
chosen
by
the
King
after
he
had
adrnired
the Duchess
of Bedford
whom
he had
seen
looking
very attractive in
a
riding
habit
of
blue
and
white.
Blue
and
white have remained
the
colours for
naval
uniform
ever since, except
for
a
period
from
1830
to
1843
when
facings
were
of scarlet"
Each
change
of
uniform
has
been
in
the
direction
of
simplification,
in sorne
cases
the undress
uniform
of
one
period
becoming
the
full
dress
of
rhe
next.
There
has
also
been
a tendency
to_approach
the
civilian
dress
of
the
age
in
form
and
cut. Thus
the
full-skirted
coars
and
"long
enrbroidered
waistcc,ats
of 1748
became gradually
morE
tightfitting
and
grew
into
a tail
coar and
a
plain
wiistcoat.
Next
arrived
the frock-coar,
dear
to
Victorian
respectability,
and
this
was
followed
by
the
modern
jacket,
worn
originaliy
rather
loose
and
to our
eyes ill-fitting.
COATS
The
original,full
dress
uniforrn
of
l74B
had
deep
cuffs
and
was smothered
in
gold
lace.
The
undress
coat
was little less
elaborate
and
had lapels
which
were
normally
buttoned
back
on
their
own sides
but
ar
a
larer
date
could
bL
crossed
over to make
a
double-breasted
coat.
The
method
of wearing
was
apparently
very much
at the
wearer's pleasure,
so_me
offcers
always
favouring
the
lapels
buttoned
back
while
others
preferred
to
fold
them
over
and fasten
one
or
two
buttons
across.
Pictures
are even
seen
in
which
the
officer
has
evidently kept both
lapels bumoned back
but
has
achieved
tidiness
by
hooking
the
edges
of
the
two
folds
together.
Others
again
had
the
edges
of
the
coat
so
cut
on
5
rhe
round that they
would
only
meet at one
point.
In
1828
orders were at
last
given
for buttoning
up
the full
dress coat.
ln
1767 the
large cuffs disappeared
and a simplification had
bcgun,
which
has continued
ever
since except
for
a brief
pcriod
from
1783 to 1787 when
admirals appeared
in
cxceptionally
gorgeous
attire.
The undress
coat of 1787 was distinguished
by
having
ru
turned
down collar, a feature which
has been
retained for
:rlmost
all
but
full dress coats
ever
since.
In
1.825,
the
first
year
for which illustrated
regulations
rrrc
known, an omcer
had
three
rigs-full
dress,
undress
and
t
hc
round
jacket.
This
round
jacket
was
really the
undress
coat without its tails.
It
was
originally
to be
worn
at
sea
only, but
within ten
years
it was
permitted in
harbour
as
"vcll.
It
survived
until
1891
when
it
finally
disappeared,
though at the same
time
another
form
of round
jacket
was
introduced as a full
dress
for midshipmen
under 18.
Greatcoats
are
rnentioned in
1825 and
two
years later
ru short
single-breasted
one
with
a
stand-up
collar was
author-
isccl
to be
worn
by
officers
on
leave
in the vicinity
of
their
ships
as
an
alternative to
the undress
coat which
now
tlisappeared
for seven
years.
On this short
greatcoat IIag
olliccrs wore epaulettes
and other
officers
wore
'|-inch
stripes'
'l'hc
garment
iesembled
a rather
full-skirted
frock
coat
and
bccarne
known
as the
blue
undress
frock.
It disappcarccl
in 1834.
In
this same
year
the
greatcoat
became
a
double-
brcasted
one
with
a
turn
down collar
and
badges
of
rank,
lilst
carried
on epaulettes)
then on
the
scales
of epaulettes
rvitlrout
their bullions)
then
by
stripes on
the
sleeves
and
linally
in
1891
by
shoulder
straps as
at present.
The
frock
|oat
proper was introduced
in 1847.
In
1880 appeared
the
ship
jacket,
very
similar
to
the
ruodcrn
monkey
jacket
being
double-breasted
with
four
buttons. At first it
was only to be
worn at
night
and
in
bad
\4/cather
at
sea
or
in boats,
but
this order
was
greatly
relaxed
in 1885. At
this
date it
was
replaced
for
a
time by
a
blue
tunic,
single-breasted
with
five buttons
and
a
stand-up
collar
to hook.
A similar white tunic
was
introduced,
this
being
thc
first
white uniform worn
by
naval officers
though white
I rousers had been worn in the
tropics
and
in
the
summer
at
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
6/12
CarrarN (over
three
years)
f]Nonnss
CIAT
l7Z4
CoMMANDER
Furr Dnnss CoAr
1795
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
7/12
LrrurnruaNt
Furr
Dnnss
COAT
1825
Frac
OrFrcsn
Snonr
Gnparcoar
(worn
as "
blue morning coat ")
1827
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
8/12
l0
home
for a
long time.
The blue tunic
only lasted four
years
when the
double-breasted
jacket
returned,
to be
referred
to
at first
as
a
monkey
jacket
and
later
as the undress coat.
It
started
with
five
buttons
of
which
four
were intended
to
fasten.
The
last
large
change
was
in 1891
when
the
undress
tail coat
beca.me ball dress and
blue and
white mess
jackets
were introduced.
The
First World
Iffar
saw the introduction
of
the watch coat in
1916
(in
imitation
of
the military
"
British $(/arm
"),
and of the white
jacket
with
trrrned-down
collar
in
1919 as
an
alternative
to
the
white tunic. The white
jacket
was
abolished
again in
1934.
The Second
World War
was responsible for working dress
on
the lines
of
army battle
dress
and for a
considerable
increase
in the
use of
tropical
dress,
i.e. white
shorts
and shirt with shoulder
straps.
BADGES
OF'
R.ANK
In
the
first uniforms
each
rank had its own distinctivc
dress, except
that commanders*
and the two
grades
of captains
were
distinguished from each
other by the lacing
on their
waistcoats.
Frcm
1774
the
uniforms
of
commanders
and
the
captains
were
differentiated by the
grouping
of the buttons
and in
1783
a
similar
arrangement was introduced
for
flag
oflficers'
undress,
stripes
appearing
for
the
first
time
on
thc
latter's
full
dress. On
the introduction
of
epaulettes in
1795
these
were used
to carry badges
of
rank.
At
first
these badges
were confined
to
flag
officers
I
captains over
three
years
seniority
wearing
plain
epaulettes
and
junior
captains
and commanders
wearing
one
only on the right
and
left
shoulder
respectively. In
L8I2 these officers
acquired
their second epaulette
with appropriate
badges of
rank,
and
the
lieutenant
'shipped'
one until 1846
when hc
was
permitted
to
wear
a second
and
the
mate
received a
single
one. In
1857
the
mate's
epauiette
was replaced
by a
pair
of shoulder straps)
or
scales,
without the
bullions.
In
some
undress
uniforms
the
epaulette
was
the only mark of
rank.
In
1856
stripes
were extended
to
all
commissioned
officers
and
the curl on
the top stripe introduced,
five
years
later
these
being altered
to the
modern
systern. Actually
*Until
1794
the title was Master and
Commander.
11
1856
was not the
first
date
on which
officers
below
flag-rank
had
adopted stripes.
From
1827
to lB34
they wore
them
on
the
short
greatcoat
which they
wore
ashorq
instead
of
theundress
coat.
Midshipmen seem
to
have
worn
their
white
patches
from__very
early
times. In
1787
they
are
dlready
described
as
"
the small
white turn
back
as before.',
BREECHES
AI.{D
TR.O{.-]SERS
Blue
breeches
were
worn
at first. 7n
1774
captains
changed
to white
and
it is
probable
that
admirals
changed at
about
the same
date.
In 1805
officers
took to
wearing
pantaloons
with
boots
and
in
1825
white
breeches
and
eithei
white
or
blue
pantaloons
were
in
existence,
Breeches
were
finally
abolished
in
1830.
Three
years
before
gold-laced
trousers
had
been introduced,
to
disappear for
a
short period
in
1830-1831.
TIATS
AI{D
CAPS
It
is
curious
that headgear
is
not mentioned
in
any
of
the
early
regulations.
Three-cornered
hats were
worn
until,
at
the
end
of the lSth
century,
theiy gave
way
to
cocked hats
worn
athwartships.
Oficers
other
than
those
of
flag-rank
turned
their
cocked
hats
fore and
aft
at about the
beginning
of the
l9th
centr.rry
but
flag
officers
retained
theirs
alhwartl
ships
until
much
later. By
the 1825
regulations
flag
officers
had
two cocked
hats, one for
full
dress
which was
gold-laced
and
the other a
plainer
one
for undress
bound
with
black
silk. In
undress
at sea
officers
might
wear
a
round
black
hat
or a
peaked
cap.
The
round
black hat
with
a
low
crown,
and
a strip of
gold
lace
known
as
a
'lightning conducror,
was
later
used
as a ' foul
weather
hat'
only
and lasted
until
1891
when
it
gave
place
to
a sou'wester.
The
first
peaked
cap
had
a
gold
band,
no
badge,
and
a fairly
full top
which
appears
to
have
decreased
in
size as
the
years
passed.
In
1846
a
gold
crown cap
badge
appeared.
In
1856
the
cap
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
9/12
Caprarlr
UNonrss
Coar 1879
Mrosulp_uax
Roulo
Jacxnr
(Introduced
1B9l)
(As
worn
1939)
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
10/12
t4
was entirely
remodelled;
the
full top disappeared
and the
cap becamb quite
tight across
rhe ciown
of the head. The
peat
was
gold-laced
for
commanders
and
above
while
a
cap
badge
consisting of
a laurel-surrounded
crown
and anchor,
very
similar to
that now in
use,
rlr}as
worn on a biack mohair
band by all
officers. Four years
later
the top
of the cap
expanded
to eight inches
and the
gold
lace
on the
peak
was
stated
to
be in
the form
of
the
oak-leaves
which
are used
at
the present
day.
Caps
have
been
seen
of
the
dimensions of
1856
but
with the oak-leaved peak
and it is not
certain
whether
these were
an intermediate pattern
or whether the
lacing
which is not
clearly
described
in 1856 was in fact
always
of the
oak-leaf
type.
During
the early
years
of
the
present
century
the tendency
was for
the tops
and
badges
of
caps
to
become
larger
though
this trend
was
not
officially
recognised
for
some
time.
\7hite
cap covers
for
use
in
hot
climates
were introduced
in
1863.
At
one
period
in
the 19th
Qentury
warrant
officers
wore something
like
a
top hat.
SWORDS
Swords were
first
made uniform in
1805
and ten
years
later
masters wore.
swords with
black
gripes
and
executive
officers
with white.
From
1832 the
black
gripe
was
only
worn
by warrant
officers
and
these also
discarded it
after
the
First
World
War.
In
the early
part
of the
19rh
century
surgeons
and secretaries
wore small
swords
(i.e.
court
swords).
Volunteers
wore
dirks
with
a curved
blade
but
midshipmen
wore swords,
"
of such
length
as may
be convenientr"
until
1856
when they
were
given
dirks.
It
is
curious
to
note
rhar
the
1924 uniform
regulations still
show swords
with
slightly
curved
blades though
most
officers had had
straight
ones
for
many
years.
Probably
the sword-makers found
a
straigl_rt
blade more convenient
to make.
CIVI
BRANCHES
Uniform
for masters
mates
and
warrant
officers
is
given
in
the
1787
regulations
but
that
for masters
and
pursers
does
not
appear
until
1807.
Pictures
indicate
however that
pursers
wore uniform
at
an earlier
date
and
it is
logical
to
t5
assume
that masters
did
so
also. In
1807
the
masters
were
to wear
special
buttons
with the arms of
the Navy Office
(three
anchors)
on them,
while
the
pursers'buttons
carried
the crossed anchors
of
the Victualling Office.
In 1825
the
collars of
full
dress coats were used to show
the branch,
masters having
their three
anchors,
pursers
the
crossed
anchors and
physicians
a snake and
anchor.
In 1832 masters
and officers of the civil
branches
wore
the
same uniforms
as those
of
corresponding
executive ranks.but
their
coats
were single instead
of
double-breasted
and
the
various
branches
were
distinguished from each other by
the
arrange-
ment of the
buttons.
Masters had them arranged
regularly;
secretaries wore
their buttons
in
pairs
and surgeons
and
physicians
in
threes.
When
engineer
officers were
instituted
they wore
their
buttons
in
fours
and
for
a
short
while
wore
double-breasted
coats.
Masters
changed
to
double-breasted
coats
in
1846
but other officers kept theirs
single-breasted
until 1891, in which
year
the distinctive
arrangement of
buttons
was
also
abandoned.
When executive officers below
flag
rank took
to
wearing
stripes
the
civil
branches followed
suit,
but while these
officers adopted the
curl
the
civil branches
kept
a
straight
top
stripe and in 1863 took to wearing
distinctive
colours between
their stripes.
When
in 1850 executive
officers
adopted
oak-leaves on
the
peaks
oftheir
caps the
civil branches
retained
their
plain gold
ornamentation and
it
was
not until l9l5 that
engineer
officers
and
l9l8
that
the
other branches
were
given
both
oak-leaves
and
the
curl.
Another distinction which
the
civil
branches
had from
1855
until 1915 or
1918,
as
the
case
may be,
was
that
of
having
gold
instead of
silver
anchors
in
their cap
badges
and
gold and
silver instead of
silver
devices
on
thefu
epaulettes.
8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
11/12
LTBUTENaNT-CoMMANDER
UNonrss
Coar
(Introduced
1889)
(As
now
worn)
Tnnnn-ComwnED
HAr 1748
CeprarN's
Cocrno
Her
Fr.ac
OrrrcBn,s
Cocxao
about
1780
HAr 1825
Frac
Onrrcnn's
CAp
lB25
Capreru's
Cap
CeprRrN's
Cocxno
Har
1856
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8/11/2019 Notes of the Uniforms Naval of Naval Officers
12/12
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Dates
of Revision of
Uniform
Regulations
The
dates of
the
principal
changes
in
the'uniform of
naval officers before
l82f werel-
Admirals
l
Captains
and
Commanders,
Lleutenants
Midbhipmen
Masters
Masters Mates
Varrant
Oficers
Pursers,..
t748, 1767, t7g7, t8r2.
1748, L787.
1807.
1787.
1787, 1807.
1807.
1748, 1767, 1783,
1787,
L795, 1812.
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>
t748,
1767, 1774, 1787, 1795, 1812.
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After 1825 there
were many
alterations;
the most
important
years
of
change,
being i827,
1832, 1833,
1843,
1846,
1856, 1863,
1879
and
1891. After each
of the
two
world
wars-
the w-earing of certain uniforms-has been
placed
in
abeyance which
has had the
effect of reducing
and
sinaplifying
the naval officer's wardrobe.
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