IamgratefultoElinorKlivansandherpublisher,ChronicleBooks,SanFranciso,forpermissiontoreprintherrecipeforTotallyChocolateChocolate
ChipCookiesfromherbookBigFatCookies.
Contents
TITLEPAGEDEDICATION
INTRODUCTION
1EVERYDAYEASYSpeedysuppersdayin,dayout
2WORKDAYWINNERS
Weekdayentertainingmadeeasy
3RETRORAPIDOTimewarpfavoritesgiventheexpresstwist
4GETUPANDGO
Breakfast,evenfaster!
5QUICKQUICKSLOWPrepareaheadtosavetimelater
6AGAINSTTHECLOCKNotime?Noproblem
7INSTANTCALMER
Speedysoulfood
8RAZZLEDAZZLE
Giveapartypronto!
9SPEEDYGONZALES
Mexican-inspiredmoments
10ONTHERUNPicnics,packedlunches,andfoodtobeeatenonthego
11HEYPRESTOInstantItalian
12HOLIDAYSNAPSChristmasquickies
13STORECUPBOARDSOSHowtocopewhenyouhaven’tgottimetogoshopping
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
INDEXABOUTTHEAUTHOR
ALSOBYNIGELLALAWSON
COPYRIGHT
INTRODUCTION
Thisis,asthetitlemakesclear,abookaboutfastfood,butitisabookaboutfastfoodforthosewholoveeating.Perhapsthat’sself-evident:HowcouldIwriteanyothersort?ButIstartwiththispremisebecausesomuchiswrittenabouttheneedtoreducethetimewemustspendcooking,it’sasifthekitchenwereahatefulplace,almostanunsafeplace,andthatitmustbeonlyreasonableforustoavoidit.Ilovefood,IadorebeinginthekitchenandIamhappytocook.Buthere’stheproblem:Thedaydoesn’thaveenoughgapsinitformetodomuchshoppingandtheevening—whatwiththebattlesoverhomework,thestillunchecked-offlistofthingsIwasmeanttodo,thecallsIwassupposedtoreturn—doesn’tyieldmuchtimetocook.ButImusteat,andImusteatwell—orelsewhatisthepointofitall?Andthentherearethepeoplewhoneedtobefed.Idon’tmentionthemgrudgingly,either.Ilovetofeedpeople,andrareisthepersonwhocomesintomyhomeandleaveswithoutafoilparcelofsomethingfromthekitchen.
Ihavehadtoadapt.Imanagetohaveafridgefulloffoodandaliferichintheexpectationofdinner,butwithintheconfinesofatimetablethatisdisorganized,busy,fullofthingsIwanttodoaswellasthingsIdon’twanttodo—thoughsometimesI’msotiredIcan’ttellthedifference.Inshort,Ihaveanormallife,thesortweallshare.Tobesure,IcanoccasionallyfindtheoddweekendorrainyafternoonwhenIamabletolosemyselfinanafternoon’sstirring,chopping,kneading,orgeneralpursuitofunhurriedcooking,butforthemostpart,Iameitherinahurryorinsomestateofpsycho-fizzorobligation-overload,andfoodhastobefittedin.
EvenifImightneverhavethoughtthatabookoffastfoodrecipeswouldbethenaturaloneformetowrite,ithasbeenbothpleasurableandeasy.Afterall,therecipesarealreadythere.ForthisisthefoodIdoeat,dayindayout.Idon’tknowifIhavequitespelledoutmyfoodobsessivenessbefore,butit’sthecasethatItakenotesofeverythingIcook(evenifthenotesaresometimeshardtoreadlater),andIkeepadigitalcamerainthekitchentorecordeachfinisheddish,ifnotforposterity,formyowngreedyarchives.Inaway,then,thisbookhaswrittenitself.Thisisjustaswell,sinceIleftmyselfbarelyenoughtimeto
writeit.Mysister,Horatia,saidIwaslikeWallaceandGromit,layingdownthetracksjustintimeforthetraintorideoverthem;andalthoughit’sbeenabithairyattimes,itdoes,however,seementirelyfittingforabookcalledNigellaExpress.
Ifeel,though,thatImustemphasizethis:Cookingisonlyonepartoftheexercise;theshoppingandplanningcanbethemoststressfulparts.Ihavetriedtokeeptheingredientslistsasshortaspossibleand,althoughIhaven’texcludedallreconditeitemsfromthem,Itrytomakesureanyshoppingtrippaysforitself,timewise.That’stosay,ifIaskyou(ormyself)tobuysomethingforonerecipe,Itrytosupplyotheroutingsforit.Butavoidingtherecherchéorunfamiliarwouldn’tbetheanswer,inanycase:afterall,thereisnoway,howeverbasicthesuppliesrequired,thatshoppingcanbedispensedwith.Eggsandbacondon’tmagicallyappearinthekitchen:theyneedtobeshoppedforjustascoconutmilkorwasabidoes.Imakethisembarrassinglyobviouspoint,becauseIthinkweallneedremindingofit.
It’snot,however,formetotellyouhowtoplanyourshoppingororderyourstorecupboard.IdomuchofmyshoppingontheInternet(toomuch,somewouldsay),gotospecialtystoreswhenIfindthetime(formethat’sfun,notduty),andhavetheoddturnaroundthesupermarket.Intheoccasionalrecipe,whereI’vethoughtitmightbehelpful,I’venotedanonlinesourceforaningredientthatcouldbeharderforyoutofindlocally.
I’vealsobeenquitestrictwithmyself.Ican’t—couldn’tpossibly—eradicateallwitterfrommywritinglife,butIhavetriedtorestrictthebabbletotheintroductiontoeachrecipeandhavethengiventhemethodinanumberofshort,precisesteps.Thisistomakesureyouneverhavetoturnapagetocontinuearecipeandtohelpeverystepreadasclearlyasitcan.Thereisn’tarecipeinherethatisn’tgloriouslysimpletocook,andIwantedtomakethatimmediatelyevidentonthepage.
Icouldgoon,butintheinterestofbrevityandtheExpressspirit,itseemsonlyrighttocutstraighttothechase.Therecipesthatfollowarenotsimplyquicktocook,theyattempttomakethewholeofyourcookinglife—andasaconsequenceallofyourlife—easier.Theyarearrangedinchapters,butpleasedon’tfeelconfinedbythese.Read,browse,sample,fiddleaboutasyouseefit.Asincooking,soinlife:WemuddlethroughasbestwecanandthisiswhatNigellaExpressisallabout.
NOTEFORTHEREADER
ALLEGGSARELARGE,ORGANICALLBUTTERISUNSALTEDALLHERBSAREFRESH,UNLESSSTATEDALLCHOCOLATEISDARK(MIN.70%COCOASOLIDS),UNLESSSTATEDSEEHEREFORINFORMATIONABOUTINFUSEDOILS
Mostdays,Iapproachcookingsupperwithlessthanabsoluteperkiness.ThisisneverbecauseIcan’tfaceitoreventhatIresentit,butbecause,attheendofalong,workingday,andafterIhavewrestledwithchildren’shomeworkandotherdomesticdemands,andfeelthatIamnothingmorethanthesumofmyimpatienceandirritationand,ofcourse,tetchyexhaustion,Ijustcan’teventhinkofwhattheremightbetocook.
Actually,thecookingitselfistheleastofit,andthisisnotjustbecausethekitchenisaplaceofsanctuaryforme.Now,planning,shopping,deciding:Thesearetherealdrainers.Isometimesthinkhowmucheasierthingswereinmygrandmother’sday.Shehadaschedule,andanunchangingone.Withoutlookingatacalendar,IcouldknowwhatdayoftheweekitwasbywhatIwasgivenfordinnerthere.Ofcourse,wearemoreadventurousthesedaysandwouldnotwishtoinflictthattediumonourchildren.Butalittleofthatorderisdesirable.Iactuallythinkitcanleadtomorevariationratherthanless.Idon’tliketoownuptohowoftenmychildrengetpastawithpestoormeatsauceforsupperbecauseIamaccustomedtolifeasafreespiritinthekitchen.
SonowwhatItryanddoismakesurethatIamalittlemorerepetitivethanIoncemighthavelikedwhilewritingmyshoppinglists.Luckily,Ibegintoseethatrepetition,too,hasitsvirtues.Iknow,atleast,thatIcangetsupperonthetablewithoutgoingshoppingafresheveryday.Idon’tfollowtherecipesbelowenormouslyrigorously;that’stosayIcertainlydeviate,bothintheregularitywithwhichtheyappearandtheirregularityofthewayinwhichIfollowthem.Iamnotgoodatauthority,evenwhenthatauthorityismyown.
Still,Ihaveoneruleandit’sasimpleenoughonetoadhereto.Andit’sthatit’sneverworthcookinganythingforsupperunlessitcanstandonequalfootingwithoneoflife’sgreatandsimplestgastro-delights,boiledeggontoast(thebestfree-rangeeggs,softboiled,rapidlypeeledandsquishedonthicksourdoughorryetoast).Ofcourse,Idon’twantthateveryday,butnordoIwanttosettleforanythingless.Ifitcan’tmeasureuptothat,Idon’twanttoeatit.HoweverlittletimeoreffortIcanexpendontheday’ssupper,Ihavetoknowitwilldelivernothinglessthanpurepleasure.Therecipesthatfollowsatisfythatmostnecessaryofedicts.
SMOKEDCODANDCANNELLINI
Ofallmyreliablestandbys,thisisoneofmyspeediest.Ofcoursethere’smoretoit.I’mtoogreedytosettleformereefficiency.IfirstmadethiswithsomesmokedhaddockwhichI’dbeenthinkingofusingforakedgeree,butIranoutofsteam—andtime.Mythinkingwasthatreplacingthestarchofthericewiththestarchofsomecannellinibeanswouldwork.Itdid.Indeeditworkedsowell,Icannowneverbewithoutsomecannedcannelliniinthecupboard.
Inspirationdoesn’ttellthewholestory,asthedishthatfollowsbearsnorelationatalltokedgeree,beingrathermoreItalianatethanAnglo-Indianinitsflavor.Thespontaneityofend-of-the-daycookingmeans—howeverImightmeantoplan—thatthisis,inculinaryterms,suigeneris.
ButthenItaketheviewthatmostofthebestthingsinlifearehappyaccidents.
12ozsmokedcod(orhaddock)filletsmallsprigparsleyincludingstalks2bayleaves1teaspoonpeppercorns1celerystalk1⅔cupswater⅓cupwhitewine214-ozcans/3½cupscannellinibeans¼–½cupfish-cookingliquid(see3,below)2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonschoppedparsley
1tablespoonchoppedchives,optional
1Laythefishfilletsinalargefryingpanwiththesprigofparsley,bayleaves,peppercorns,andcelerystalk.Pourinthewaterandwineandbringtoaboil.
2Coverthepanwithfoilandsimmerthefishinthepoachingliquidfor3–5minutes,dependingonthethicknessofthefish.Takeofftheheatandremovethefish,wrappingthepiecesinfoiltokeepwarm.
3Tipoutallbutabout¼–½cupofthepoachingliquidfromthepan.Thiswilldependonthedepthofyourpan.
4Drainthecannedbeans,rinsingtheminasieveorcolandertogetridofanygloopinessandaddtothepan,warmingtheminthepoachingliquidforabout
3minutes.(Addalittlemorepoachingliquidifnecessarytomoistenthebeans.)
5Turnofftheheatandplacethefishontopofthebeansinthepan.Addtheoil,mostoftheparsley,andthechives,ifyou’reusingthem,stirringeverythingtogether,breakingupthefishasyougo.
6Checktheseasoningandturnoutintoacoupleofbowlsorplates,sprinklewithalastbitofparsley,andeat,withrelish.
Serves2
ANGLO-ASIANLAMBSALAD
IlovethetangyfireofThaicooking;IloveequallythetraditionalEnglishpartnershipoflambwithredcurrantandmint.Ijusthappened,oneday,justbecauseofwhatIhadinthekitchen,tobringthetwotogether.ConsideritanovinereworkingofthosehotandsourbeefsaladsofSoutheastAsia.Alambloin,sometimesdescribedastheeyeofthesaddle,isthefleshycomponent,thoughanyleancutoflambwoulddo.RedcurrantjellystandsinforthesweetnessofjaggeryorpalmsugarandIusericevinegar(alwayseasilyonhand)insteadoflimejuice.Iamnotmarriedtosomeonewhowouldnormallyregardasaladasatreatforsupper,butmyhusbandlovesthis—anddoesn’tevennoticeitisasalad.
Itisalsoausefulrecipetohaveupyoursleeveforastarterondayswhendiningseemstorequireone.Itryandkeepthosedays—ornights—toaminimum,ortowhenI’minarestaurant.
2teaspoonsgarlic-infusedoil1loinoflamb,approx.8ozinweight2tablespoonsfishsauce(nampla)2tablespoonsricevinegar
1tablespoonredcurrantjelly1teaspoonsoysauce1redchile,deseededandfinelychopped,or¼teaspoondriedchileflakes1scallion,finelysliced
4cupssaladleaves3tablespoonsfreshlychoppedmint
1Heatthegarlic-infusedoilinapan,andcookthelambfor5minutesononeside,turningitoverandcookingforanother2½minutesontheother.Wrapthemeatinfoil,makingabaggypackagethatisatightlysealedparcel,andletitrestforabout5minutes.
2Inamedium-sizedbowl,whisktogetherthefishsauce,vinegar,redcurrantjelly,soysauce,deseededchoppedchile,andslicedscallion.
3Openthefoilparcel,emptyingthemeatjuicesintothedressing.Slicethelambintoveryfineslicesorstripsandaddthemtoo;theacidinthedressingwill“cook”thelambalittlemorewhileitissteeped.Ifitisnotveryrare,I’dleaveitforashorttimeand,consequently,foralongertimeifitseems
undercooked.Youwantitstillgorgeouslypinkonitssalad.
4Dividethesaladleavesamongtwo(orfour)platesandthenarrangethelambwiththedressingovereachone.Finally,scatteroverthechoppedmint.
Serves2asamaincourse,4asastarter
SALMONESCALOPESWITHWATERCRESS,SUGARSNAPS,ANDAVOCADO
Thisisanidealrecipeforthosedayswhenyou’reassqueezedfortimetoshopastocook:Youjustrushintothesupermarketatlunchoronthewayhome,grabafewpackages,andrushoutagain.
“Wokoil”ishowtheoilIliketouseherecomeslabeled:Itcontainsvegetableoil,sesameoil,ginger,andgarlic;butgarlicoil,chileoilor,indeed,justoil-oilwouldbefine.
2thin-cutsalmonsteaksorescalopes,approx.4ozeach2tablespoonsricevinegar1teaspoonsugar
½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt2tablespoonswokoil4cupswatercress1cupminiaturesugarsnappeas1smallripeavocado
1Heataheavy-based,nonstickskilletandwhenhotcookthesalmonescalopesforaboutaminuteaside.Removetoacoupleofdinnerplates.
2Whiskthericevinegar,sugar,salt,andwokoiltogetheranddrizzleeachsalmonsteakwithaboutateaspooneach,andsettherestasideforamoment.
3Dividethewatercressandsugarsnapsbetweeneachplateandthenhalvetheavocado,removethestone,and,usingateaspoon,gougeouttheavocadoflesh,droppingthepiecesasyougoinamongstthetangleofwatercressandsugarsnaps.
4Pourtheremainingdressingoverthesaladsandserveimmediately.
Serves2
MUSTARDPORKCHOPS
IlovetheoldFrenchfavorites,thesortsthatevokenotthesuperciliouswaiterandtheatricallyremovedsilvereddomeofthebig-namerestaurants,butratherthesmall-townbistro,allwarmwoodandroughredwine.
Thisispossiblytheeasiestroutetoaproper,filling,andyetstrangelydelicatedinner.Theporkiscookedforjustenoughtimetotakeawaypinknessbutensuretendernesswithin,andgloriouslyscorchedwithout.Themustard,cider,andcreamaddcomfortandpiquancy.
Tosoakupthegorgeousjuices,andtoserveasafantasticallyquickpotatosubstitute,Iserveupgnocchialongside.Youcouldalwaysaddalittlelemonyfennel,slicedthinly,oragreensaladifyou’reinthemood.
2porkchops,about1lbtotalweight2teaspoonsgarlicoil½cuphardcider1tablespoonwhole-grainmustard⅓cupheavycream
1Cutthefatoffthechops,andthenbashthembrieflybutbrutallywitharollingpinbetweentwopiecesofplasticwraptomakethemthinner.
2Heattheoilinapan,andthencookthechopsoveramoderatelyhighheatforabout5minutesperside.Removethemtoawarmedplate.
3Pourtheciderintothepan,stillovertheheat,todeglazethepan.Letitbubbleawayforaminuteorso,thenaddthemustardandstirinthecream.
4Letthesaucecontinuecookingforafewminutesbeforepouringovereachplatedporkchop.Ifyou’rehavinggnocchiwith,makesureyouturntheminthepantoabsorbanysparejuicesbeforeaddingthemtoyourplates.
Serves2
TURKEYFILLETSWITHANCHOVY,GHERKIN,ANDDILL
Ihavelongbeenanexcitablefanofturkey,that’stosaythefamiliarfestiveroastturkey,butIhavecomeonlyrecentlytoappreciatetheblander,leanercutsthatlineoursupermarkets’refrigeratedshelves.DoIsoundsneering?Forceofhabit,perhaps.Ihavelongresistedthesortofmeatthatisprizedalmostexclusivelyforitslowfatcontent(whatathingtodo,tolikefoodforwhatitlacks),butI’vefoundmyselfcookingwithturkeypartsmoreandmore.Notleast,Ilovethecontrastofitsmildmeattosharp,pungentflavorings,thesortofflavoringsthatlivebymystoveandlendthemselvestolazyeveningcookingveryhandsomely.
Thesaltinessoftheanchoviesandthesharpnessofthegherkinsgivethetimidturkeyrealbitehere,andIlovetheGermanicsprinklingofdillafter.Itendtoeatthiswithsomethingplain,ricefromthericecookerorsomesteamedtinynewpotatoesoravastplateofbroccoli.Thebroccoli(inthiscasesomefabuloussproutingpurplebroccoli)needsnomorethansomebutteroroil,butifyoufeellikegoingallout(relativelyspeaking),trythemustard-caperbuttersauceonthefacingpage.
5anchovyfillets2tablespoonsoliveoil14oz/3smallturkeybreastfillets,beatenasthinlyaspossible,eachfilletthencutinhalf2tablespoonsvermouth2gherkins,finelychopped2tablespoonschoppedfreshdill
1Heattheanchovyfilletsandoilinafryingpan,stirringwithawoodenspoonuntilthefilletsbegintomeltinthepan.
2Flash-frytheturkeyinthesamepan,cookingforacoupleofminutesoneachside.Removethemeattoawarmservingplate.
3Addthevermouthandchoppedgherkins,andlettheliquidreduceandsizzleforaminuteorso.
4Pourovertheplatedturkeyandsprinklewiththechoppeddill.
Serves4
MUSTARD-CAPERSAUCEFORBROCCOLI
6tablespoonsbutter2teaspoonsDijonmustardjuiceofhalfalemon2tablespoonscapers
1Putthebutter,mustard,andlemonjuiceintoapanovermediumheat.
2Asthebuttermelts,whiskalltheingredientstogetherandthenaddthecapers.
3Pourtheemulsifiedsauceovercookedbroccoliandserve.
Makesenoughtodress½to1lbbroccoli
REDSHRIMPANDMANGOCURRY
Thisisoneoftheeasiestsupperstomakeandsomehow,howevermuchIknowthis,italwayssurprisesme.Notinthecooking,somuchasintheeating:Ican’tbelieve,eachtimeanew,howdeepandtexturedandfull-throttle,inasweet,comfortingway,thistastes,whenallIdidwasabitofshoppingandsomelightstirring.
ObviouslyithelpsifyoucanhavesomeoftheconveniencestuffIlistbelow:Thepeeledandcubedsquash,sweetpotato,andmangoIfindatthesupermarketmakethisabreeze.Butifyoucan’tfindthem,nomatter:Addsomedrainedcannedchickpeasandperhaps,forsomesour-sweetedge,somepineapplethat’sbeeninitsownjuice,notsyrup.Asforthecoconutmilk,Ioftenusethewholecanratherthanamerehalfbelow;itreallydependsonwhetherIfeellikeeatingoutofadeepbowl,soupily,orashallowone.TogowithIsuggesteitherplainriceorsomeplainwidericenoodlescookedaccordingtopackageinstructions(allofabout2minutes)andtossedinsometoastedchoppedunsaltedcoconut-flavoredpeanuts.
Ifyouhavesomefreshshrimpsomuchthebetter,butIstipulatethefrozenonesbelowsinceIregularlykeeptheminthefreezerforaneveningwhenIfeellikeeatinggorgeouslywithverylittleforethought.
1scallion,finelysliced1tablespoongarlicorchileoil1½tablespoonsredThaicurrypaste(oraccordingtotaste)abouthalfofa14-ozcancoconutmilktogive1cup1cupchickenstock
2teaspoonsfishsauce(nampla)12oz/2½cupsbutternutsquashandsweetpotatocubes7ozfrozenkingshrimptogive2cups1cupmangocubes
1teaspoonlimejuice3–4tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro
1Frytheslicedscallionintheoilforaminute,thenaddthecurrypaste.
2Whiskinthecoconutmilk,stock,andfishsauceandbringtoaboil.
3Tipinthebutternutsquashandsweetpotatocubesandsimmer,partiallycovered,forabout15minutesoruntiltender.
4Draintheshrimpunderrunningwatertoremoveexcessiceandtumblethemintothepan,lettingthesaucecomebacktoaboil.Whenitdoes,addthedicedmangoandlimejuiceandcookforanotherminuteorsountiltheshrimparecookedthrough.
5Sprinklewiththechoppedcilantroasyouserveoverplainriceorwidericenoodles,orevenboth.
Serves2–4,dependingonhungerandwhetheryou’reexpectingtoeatanythingelseatsupper.
QUICKCALAMARIWITHGARLICMAYONNAISE
Strangethoughitmightsoundtosayit,thisisanotherofmysupperstandbys.Ikeepthefrozencalamariinthedeep-freeze,takingitoutinthemorningatbreakfasttoletitthawintimefortheevening’smeal.Iprefertoeatamassiveamountofthis,andnothingelse(Icaneatthewholelotmyself)ratherthanhaveitmoremeanlyasastarterunless,inalifeoutsideofthischapter’sparameters,I’mexpectingcompany,inwhichcaseitwouldhappilystretchtofourpeople,readytodunkeachcrisppieceofsquidintothegarlicmayonnaiseoverpre-dinnerdrinks.
1cuppeanutoilorasneededdependingonthesizeofpan1lbfrozencalamari(tubesandtentacles)togive12ozunfrozen,thawedintherefrigerator¼cupsemolina
2tablespoonscornstarch2teaspoonsOldBayseasoning(orusesaltandpaprika)FORTHEGARLICMAYONNAISE
1clovegarlic½cupbestquality,preferablyorganic,mayonnaise
1Heattheoilinasmallishsaucepanandwhileit’sheating,cutthethawedcalamariinto½-inchrings.
2Putthesemolina,cornstarch,andseasoningintoaplasticfreezerbag.
3Addthecalamariringsandtentaclesandthentosstocoat.
4Whentheoilishotenough,whichiswhenitsizzlesupfiercelywhenyoudropinasmallcubeofbread,frythecalamariinbatchestogetthemostgoldencrunchiness.Acoupleofminutesperbatchisallyoushouldneed.
5Liftthecalamarifromthepanusingaslottedspoonanddrainonpapertowels.
6Grateorcrushthegarlic.Stirwelltomixintothemayonnaiseandservealongsidethefriedcalamari.
Serves2
NAANPIZZA
AttimeswhenI’mpretendingtoindulgethechildren,butamreallytooexhaustedtocook,Iorderpizza.Butactuallythisismypreferredoption.Icaneatawholepizzainitsboxandalwaysregretitafterward.ThisisnotmuchhardertocookthanmakingaphonecallandIfeelmuchhappierforit.Thisismytoppingofpreference;feelfreetoplayabouttomakeyourown.AllIfeelstronglyisthatwhiletakeoutpizzacrustsarevile,packagednaans,whenheated,arenot.
1naan,about8incheslong2teaspoonstomatopuree(choppedandsievedtomatoes)fromajarorothertomatosauce½cupdrainedmixedmushroomantipastofromajar½cuproughlychoppedfontina3freshthymestalks
1Preheattheovento425°F.Laythenaanonabakingsheetlinedwithbakingparchment,aluminumfoil,oraSilpat.
2Spreadtomatopureeorsauceoverthenaan,thentumbleoverthedrainedmushroomsandsprinkleoverthechoppedcheesebeforefinallystrewingwiththethymeleavesstrippedfromthestalks.
3Cookintheovenforabout5minutes,bywhichtimethecheeseshouldbebubblingandmelted.Becarefulnottoburnyourmouth.
Serves1
ROASTCORNISHHENANDSWEETPOTATOES
ThisismyalmostregularasclockworkSaturdaynightsupper.IfinditenormouslyeasyandrelaxingtomakesinceallIdoisgodownstairs,puteverythingintheoven,andthengobackuptoSaturdayeveningTVinbeduntilit’sready—andthen,frankly,backagain.
IfIcooktheCornishhensinthesamepanasthesweetpotatoes,Icutacoupleofslicesofbreadandputoneunderneatheachbirdinthepan,soastoabsorbthejuicesandstopthemfromseepingintothesweetpotatoes,which,inturn,wouldpreventthemfromcrispingandbrowning.Butmoreoftenthannot,Idispensewiththebread(youcanimaginehowgoodittasteslaterthough)andjustgettwodisposablefoilroastingpansaboutthesizeofbrowniepanseachandputtheCornishhensinoneandthesweetpotatoesinanotherandreuniteontheplatewithalittlewatercressandasquirtoflimejuicelater.
ImusthaveEnglishmustardwiththis.Iknowit’saweakness,butnotoneI’mwillingtorenounce.
2Cornishhens2tablespoonsgarlicorcanolaoil1sweetpotato,weighingapproximately1lb¼teaspoongroundcumin
¼teaspoongroundcinnamon1–2bunchesofwatercresskoshersaltgoodsquirtlimejuice
1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthebirdsintoasmallbakingpanorfoilpan,pouringover1tablespoonofoil.
2Cuttheunpeeledsweetpotatointo2½-inchcubesandputthemintoanothersmallishpanorfoilpan.
3Pourovertheothertablespoonofoilandsprinkleoverthespices,thentosseverythingtogetherbyshakingthepan.
4Cookboththehensandsweetpotatoesinthepreheatedovenfor45minutes.
5PuteachCornishhenonaplate,withatangleofwatercressandthesweetpotatoesalongside.Sprinklewithkoshersalttotasteandspritzwithlimejuice,andgotoit!
Serves2
CARAMELCROISSANTPUDDING
Ialwaysthinkthatsomeofthebestrecipescomefromthethriftyrefusaltothrowanythingaway.CertainlyImadethisoneMondayeveningbecauseIhadtwostalecroissantsleftoverfromtheweekendandjustknewtheycouldbeputtogooduse.Now,addingcreamandbourbonisprobablyalotlessthriftythanthrowingsomestalebreadawayinthefirstplace,butthisissuchafabulousdessertthatInowthinkitshouldbeeveryMondaynight’ssupper.AndImeansupper:Withsomethingthissubstantial,youcertainlyneedeatnothingbeforehand.ThoughIadmitasmallcrunchysaladmaynotbeabadideafirst.
Oh,andifyoudon’thaveanybourboninthehouse,firstmayIsay,pleaseconsiderit,andsecond,replaceit,rather,withrum.Scotchwhiskymayseemtheobvioussubstitutebutitwouldbethewrongone,Ifeel.
2stalecroissants1cupsugar2tablespoonswater½cupheavycream½cupwholemilk2tablespoonsbourbon2eggs,beaten
1Preheattheovento350°F.
2Tearthecroissantsintopiecesandputinasmallgratindish;Iuseacast-ironovalonewithacapacityofabout2cupsforthis.
3Putthesugarandwaterintoasaucepan,andswirlaroundtohelpdissolvethesugarbeforeputtingthesaucepanontheburnerovermediumtohighheat.
4Caramelizethesugarandwatermixturebylettingitbubbleawayuntilitallturnsadeepambercolor;thiswilltake3–5minutes.Keeplookingbutdon’tbetootimid.
5Turnheatdowntolowandaddthecream—ignoringallspluttering—and,
whisking,themilkandbourbon.Anysolidtoffeethatformsinthepanwilldissolveeasilyifyoukeepwhiskingoverlowheat.Takeofftheheatand,stillwhisking,addthebeateneggs.Pourthecaramelbourboncustardoverthecroissantsandleavetosteepfor10minutesifthecroissantsareverystale.
6Placeinthepreheatedovenfor20minutesandpreparetoswoon.
Serves2greedypeople
RHUBARBANDCUSTARDGELATO
ThereisnovariationonrhubarbandcustardIdon’tlove,andthisisprobablyoneoftheeasiesttomake.Youbuysomegoodeggyvanillaicecreamandmakeastovetopcompote—veryquick,andgorgeouspouredwarmovertheicecreamwiththerestchilledinthefridgeandeatenwithyogurtforbreakfast.
1lbrhubarb(untrimmed)¾cupsugar2tablespoonsbest-qualitypurevanillaextractAfewscoopsoficecream(fortwopeople)
1Cuttherhubarbinto¼-inchslices,discardingtheleavesandtoughends.
2Putalloftheingredientsexcepttheicecreamintoasaucepanandbringtoaboil,stirringasthepanheatsuptohelpdissolvethesugar.
3Partiallycoverthepanandsimmerforabout3minutes,thenuncovercompletelyandcookforanothercoupleofminutes,oruntiltherhubarbissoftandmeltingintothepinksyrup,thoughstillkeepingitsshape—just.
4Pourintoapitcherandleavetocoolalittle.
Makesapproximately2cups,whichisenoughforagood6portions,butfeelhappy—please—touseasmuchasyoulike.
BUTTERSCOTCHFRUITFONDUE
Ifeveryou’ve—lazily,guiltily—boughtpeeled,sliced,cubedfruitfromthesupermarketandthenwonderedwhyyoubothered,asyougethometodiscoverthefruitisbrightlyhuedbutdimlyflavored,thisisthesolution.Anything,frankly,dunkedintoabutterscotchsaucetastesgood,andthisisafabulouseverydayorevenpartydessert.
Iownup,thefruitinthepicturedidcomeoutofacellophanepackage,themangoalreadycubed,themelonsliced,butmostlyImakethisforthechildrenusingbananasandpearsIhaveactuallymanagedtopeelandslicemyself.Thestrawberriesyoudon’tevenneedtohull:Theirstalksareusefultolowertheberriesintothemoltenfondue.
Igiveeveryone—herejustthetwoofus—alittlecupoffonduefortheirownindividualdipping.Itdoesmeanyoumakemoresaucethanisneeded,butitgetsaroundthesharedspitandsalivaissue.Oryoucouldmakehalftheamountandpouritoverthemixofcubedpineapple,papaya,andmango.
Eitherway,youdon’twantthebutterscotchfonduetoofiercelyhot,notleastbecauseitwillbetoorunny.Ifyoumakeitbeforeyousitdowntoeataltogether,itshouldbejustaboutperfectbythetimeyoureachdessert.Iamalsoprettykeenonthiscold,spoonedstraightfromthecup.
Youcouldsubstitutedarkcornsyrupforthegoldensyrup,butI’mafraiditdoesn’thavetheviscosityorflavor.SinceyoucannowgetLyle’sGoldenSyrupsenttoyoufromAmazonGourmet,Idon’tfeelbadrecommendingthelessfamiliaringredient.
3tablespoonslightbrownsugar2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar½cupgoldensyrup2tablespoonsbutter½cupheavycreamsplashofpurevanillaextractapprox.12ozcutfruit
1Meltthesugars,syrup,andbutterinasaucepanandboilfor5minutes.
2Addthecreamandvanilla,stirringtogether,andthentakeofftheheat.
3Dividethesaucebetweentwocupsorsmallbowls,andthenarrangethefruitontwosaucersoronaplate,asyouseefit.
Serves2
Therearefewthingssolikelytoputastrainontotheworkingdayasknowingyou’vegotpeoplecomingoverforsupperafewminutesafteryou’vewalkedthroughthefrontdoor,letalonetakenyourcoatoff.Idon’twishtosoundnegative.Ido,it’strue,haveatendencytowardslighthermit-likecocooning,especiallyinthewinter,butIalsolovetobeinaroomfulloffriendsintheevening.AndifIthinkaboutit,mostofthetimewhenIdohavepeopleoverforsupper,itisduringtheweek.Weekendscangetsotakenoverbymychildren’ssociallife,therereallyisn’tanytimeformyown.Butthatsuitsme.Oneofthegoodthingsaboutamidweeksupperpartyisthatnooneexpectsthegrandtreatment.AndIalways,alwayspreferthemoodtobeinformal.
Somakelifeeasieronyourselfbydispensingwithastarter.IknowI’vesaidthisbefore,butitbearsrepetition.It’snotjustthatyoudon’twanttheextracooking,butneitherdoyouwantanextracourse’sworthofwashingup.AndIdon’tthinkyouwantdinnertobeanoverlongaffair.Itmaynotsoundhospitable,butwhowantsareallylatenightinthemiddleoftheworkingweek?
Onlyhaveastarterifitmakeslifeeasierforyou.Sometimesitcanhelptohavesomefoodforpeopletopickatoveradrinkortwo:Itmeansyoucangetonwithgettingsuppertogethercalmly,andkeepseveryonehappy.Ialsothinksometimesitmakessensetobalancetheamountoffoodyouhavetoputonthetable.So,bygivingafirstcourse,maybeyoucanprovidejustasaladwiththemaincourse,andnotpotatoestoo—thatsortofthing.SometimesIuseabitofstarteractiontomakemefeellessguiltyaboutgivingeveryoneroastchickenagain.Andyoudon’tactuallyhavetocookthestarter;afewbitsandpiecesthrowntogetherisallyouneed—liketheshrimpandharissadiporcrabsaladthatfollow,forobviousexample.
Andyoucantakethelackofeffortfurther,withoutfeelingbadaboutitatall.Abitofjudicious—andpleasurableifyou’relucky—shoppingandyoudon’thavetodoathing.Ibuysomesalami,uncutandstillinsausageform,aswellassomeslicedandarrangethemwithaknifeortwoonawoodenboard.Parmesanboughtinawedgeandthencutintocrumblyhunksisanotherlabor-lightwayofgoingaboutfeedingpeoplewhentheyarrive.Slighterhigheruptheeffortscale,butonlyatinybit,istobuysomefrozenedamamebeansfromastorethatdealsinJapanesefoodstuffs.Thesearesoybeansinthepod,whichyouboilforaboutfiveminutesfromfrozenandthensprinklelavishlyifunfashionablywithrocksaltbeforebeingpodded,theirjadebeanspoppedintothemouth,whilestill
saltbeforebeingpodded,theirjadebeanspoppedintothemouth,whilestillwarm.
Buyatubofhummus,mixitwithhalfitsvolumeofGreekyogurt,stirinalittlegroundcuminandgratedlemonzest,drizzlewitholiveoilandscatterwithpomegranateseeds,andservewithbreadsticksorslicedpita.Orbuyagoodtuboflemony(preferablyorganic)mayonnaiseandgrateinalittlegarlicandsetanarrayofrawvegetablesonthetabletobedippedintoit.Ifyoucan’tfacechoppingvegetables,thengoheavyonsugarsnapsinstead.
Aboveall,berelaxed.Iknowit’salwaysanirritatinginjunction,butthisshouldbeasupperwithfriends,aroundatable,withyouabletoenjoythem.Foodalwayshelps,butevenadinnergonewrongcanbeagreatevening.Andonceyouacceptthatmistakesinthekitchendon’tneedtomatter,you’relesslikelytomaketheminthefirstplace.Anyway,noneoftherecipesthatfollowshouldgiveeitherthenoviceorthemerelytiredanycauseforculinary,orother,concern.
SHRIMPWITHMARYAMZAIRASAUCE
OK,sothisistheidea:SauceMarieRosegoesMoroccan.Insteadoftheusualtomatoketchup(well,behonest)Idollopinsomegoodstore-boughtharissa.Itworkswonderfully,andthehoneymakesupforthesugaryoulackbygivinguptheHeinz.Becarefulwhenyoubuyharissathough,asnotonlydoesitvaryenormouslyinstrengthbutalsosomejarsthatbearthenamearenotreallyharissabutsomepastemaderedwithbeetrootandcarrot.Checkthebackofthejarforingredients.Iusedagorgeouslymildharissahere,aroseharissa,thatIfindpoeticallydesirable.Butstartwithasmallamountoftheharissayou’vegotbeforeworkinguptotheamountIhavestipulatedbelow.
Iloveshrimpwiththeirshellsstillon;abitofDIYatthetablealwaysseemstohelptheatmosphere.Butifyouhatemessandcan’tbearthesightofseeingpeopledroppingshellsallovertheplaceandhaven’tgottimefortreatment,thensimplybuypeeledshrimpinstead.
1cupgoodstore-bought,preferablyorganic,mayonnaise¼cupharissa1teaspoonlimejuice1teaspoonhoney1lbcookedshell-oncookedshrimp
1Mixtogetherallthesauceingredients,andputintoabowlfordipping.
2Arrangetheshrimponaplateforpeopletopluck,peel,anddipintothesauce,makingsureyouhaveenoughinthewayofplatesorsaucersdottedabouttheplacefordetritus.
Serves4–6
CRABANDAVOCADOSALADWITHJAPANESEDRESSING
Thisisanotheroneofthosesaladsthatmyhusbanddoesn’tnoticeisasaladandthatweeatfairlyoftenathome.NowthatIcanfindgood,freshtubsofcrabmeatatthesupermarketIcanreallyrelyonthisasatableandtummyfillerwhenIdon’thavemuchtimeforslow,store-by-specialty-storeshopping.Thequantitiesbelowprovidegenerousamountsforfourpeople,sothisisthesortofstarterthatyoucanusetosaveyoucomingupwithenormousamountslateronintheevening.Ioftenhalveitforaquicksupperforthetwoofusathome,orwhenit’smeandagirlfriendandachilledbottleofrosé.
2tablespoonsmirin1tablespoonricevinegar½teaspoonwasabipaste½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoonregularsaltfewdropssesameoil1longredchilepepper,deseededandfinelychopped1¼cupscookedcrabmeatapprox.1teaspoonlimejuice5cupsarugulaorothertender,darkgreensaladleaves1ripeavocado
1–2teaspoonschoppedchives
1Inabowlthatwillholdthecrabmeatlater,whisktogetherthemirin,ricevinegar,wasabi,salt,andsesameoil.Thenremovearound4teaspoonstoanotherbowllargeenoughforthesaladlater.
2Tothefirst,moregenerousamountofdressingaddthefinelychoppedchileandthenthecrabmeat,andforkthroughtomixthoroughly.
3Tothesmallamountofdressingintheotherbowl,addthelimejuiceandthenthesaladleavesandtosswelltomixbeforearrangingonfourplates.
4Spoonaquarterofthecrabmixtureintoaregularmetalkitchen⅓-cupmeasure,squishingdowntogetitallin,thentakeitovertoasalad-linedplateandunmoldinthecenterofit.Justturnover,tap,andthecrabmeatshouldfallout.Continuewiththeremainingthreequartersofthecrabmeatandthethreeotherplates.
5Usingaroundedhalfteaspoonmeasure,scoopoutcurlsorhumpsofavocadoanddotaroundontopofthesaladybits.Spritzwithalittlelimejuice.
6Sprinklethechoppedchivesoverthefourmoundsofcrabandtaketheplatestothetable.
Serves4asastarter
SAKESEABASSANDWILTEDGREENS
Thisisverycalm,veryplain,verygood.It’swhatImakeforpeopleondietsorwhodon’tlikeanythingtoovigorousorwhenIfeelinneedofaZenmoment.Iamawarethatdoesn’tmakeitsoundveryexciting,butfreshfishdoesn’tneedanythingtomakeitexciting,itjustneedstobeallowedtobetasted.Andthisisthesortofelegant,pared-downfoodthat’shardtogetinarestaurant.Ifyouwanttohavepotatoeswith,thensteamsome(thiswilltakelongerthanthefish,butrequiresnoeffort).
Easierthough,toprovidealittlesomethingfirstandmakeeveryonehappywiththeconfidentrestraintofjustfabulousfishandsomeflavorsomewiltedgreens.
2seabass,approx.2lb4scallions6tablespoonssake2tablespoonssoysauce1teaspoongratedfreshginger
1Preheattheovento400°F.Layeachseabassonalargepieceoffoil,andbringupthesidesreadytomakeaparcel.
2Slicethescallionsinhalflengthwiseandplace4piecesintothecavityofeachfish.
3Sprinkle3tablespoonsofsakeintoeachparcel,1tablespoonofsoy,andabouthalfateaspoonofthegratedgingerintoeach.
4Wraptheparcelslooselybutsealedfirmly,andcookonabakingsheetforabout25minutes.
5Openthecookedfishparcels,peelawaytheskinfromthetopofeachfish,andfilletthetoplayeroffish.
6Turnthefishover,repeatthesameprocess,andthenspoonoveranyjuicesfromtheparcelontothefilletedseabassandservewiththewiltedgreens.
Serves4–6
WILTEDGREENS
Iuseanythingonhand:bokchoytornupsmall,snowpeas,spinach,assortedbitsfromthebottomofthevegetabledrawerandsaladcompartment.ThisisthebestwayI’vefoundofusingupbagsandbitsofdesignerleavesthatarepasttheirbest—notbad,butnolongerbeautifulenoughtobeservedassalad.
2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil2anchovyfillets12cupsassortedgreenvegetables
1Heattheoilandanchoviesinawokorlargepanandstiruntiltheanchoviesseemtostartmeltingintotheoil.
2Tossinyourgreenvegandstir-fryoverfairlyhighheat—afewminutesatthemost—untileverythinghaswilted.
Serves4
BRANDIED-BACONYCHICKEN
I’venevermadeasecretofmyloveandrespectforaplain,old-fashioned,unreconstructedroastchicken.WhywouldI?Butsometimesit’sgoodtoplay,andthebrandyandbaconherebringflavor(andhelpthebirdbronzeupbeautifully)butnotdistraction.It’sstillwhatitis.
Alongside,Iservethepotatoandmushroomgratinthatfollowsandalemony,crunchygreensalad,etc’esttout.Andifyouwanttodispensewiththepotatoelementaltogether,Isuggestthisalmosteffort-freesubstitution:simplydraintwocansofpuylentils,andwhenthechickenisroasted,andstandingonacarvingtray,warmupthelentilsinthehotchickenyjuicesinthetinandserveastheyare,sprinkledwithparsleyifyoufeelsoinclined.
Thisisnotspeedy-speedyinactualcookingtimebutit’sfantasticallyhelpfulwhenyouhavepeopleforsuppersinceallitrequiresisabout10minutesprep,andthenyoucansetthetable,haveadrink,andputonlipstickwhileeverythingcookshappilybyitselfinahotoven.
1chickenapprox.2½–3lbs2stripsbacon¼cupbrandy
1Heattheovento425°F.
2Inasmallskilletcookthebaconovermediumheatuntilit’scrispandthepanfullofgorgeousbaconyfat,about4minutes.
3Takethepanofftheheat,thebaconoutofthepanandstraightintothecavityofthechicken,sittingthechickeninaroastingpanasyoudoso,breastsideup.
4Pourthebrandyintothestill-hotfryingpanwiththebaconfatandletbubbleforaminutethenpouritoverthechicken.
5Roastfor45minutes,makingsurethejuicesrunclearbetweenlegandbody.
Letrest10minutesbeforecarving.
Serves4
POTATOANDMUSHROOMGRATIN
Therearefewsightsasupliftinginthekitchenasagolden,bubblinggratincomingoutoftheoven,andthisistheperfectaccompanimenttothechicken,soeveryone’shappy.It’sstrangetobesayingthis,butoneofthereasonsIlovethisparticulargratinisthatitisn’ttoocreamyandrich.Andtherelativethinnessofthewineandmilkthepotatoesandmushroomsarecookedin—relativetoheavycream,thatis—iswhatallowsyoutocookthisinsuchahotovenandsoquickly.
ThefirsttwotimesIcookedthis,Ipeeledthepotatoes;nowIdon’tbother.Itisn’tnecessary(andIbuybakingpotatoesthatcomeallcleanandshiny)andevenifpeelingthemdoesn’treallytakelong,it’sagoodpsychologicalsteptoremove:thisisnowaquicksliceandchop,inapanandthencetotheoven.Itfeelseasy—butthenitmaybebecauseitiseasy.
3average-sized/1½lbsbakingpotatoes,thinlysliced1½cupsmilk3tablespoonswhitewinesaltandpeppertotaste2tablespoonsbutter2teaspoonsgarlic-infusedoil8ozcreminimushrooms,finelyslicedtomake4cups
1Heattheovento425°Fandbutterashallowbakingdishorgratin.
2Bringtheslicedpotatoes,milk,wine,salt,andpeppertoaboilinasaucepan,stirringoccasionally,andleaveatasimmerwhileyougetonwiththemushrooms.
3Meltthebutterandgarlicoilinaskilletovermedium-highheat.Addthemushroomsandcook,stirringoccasionally,untilsoftened,about3minutes.
4Pourthemushroomsandtheirgarlicky,butteryjuicesintothepanofpotatoes,stirtomix,andpourstraightintothegratindish.Bakefor45minutesalongsidethechickenoruntilpipinghot,andcrispontop.
Serves4
STEAKSLICEWITHLEMONANDTHYME
Thisrecipe,orratherthemethod,wassuggestedtomebymyagentEdVictor,andsoisknownfamiliarlyasEd’sTenderRump.Themethodisthis:Insteadofmarinatingthemeatbeforecooking,youmarinateitafter—anditreallydoeskeepitextraordinarilytender.Pleasefeelfreetoplayaroundwiththeherbs;IratherthinkEdhimselfusesoreganoratherthanthethymeIlove.
Ilovethiswithbroccolirabeorthoseleggytenderstembroccoli.Acoupleofpackages,lightlycookedandthendrainedandsetinthemarinadeafterthebeef’soutandsliced,isthemostheavenlyaccompaniment.AndIcan’ttellyouhowgoodbothsteakandbroccolirabearecoldlater.
1rumpsteak1inchthickweighingapprox.1¼lbs5stalksthymetogive1tablespoonstrippedleaves2clovesgarlic,bruised
⅓cupextravirginoliveoilzestandjuiceof½lemon1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesaltgoodgrindingoffreshpepper
1Cutawaythefatfromaroundtheedgeofthesteakwhileyouheatagriddleorpan.
2Brushthesteakwithalittleoliveorvegetableoiltopreventitfromstickingtothegriddleorpan,andthencookfor3minutesasideplus1minuteeachsideturnedagain(thisgivesyouprettygriddlemarks)fordesirablyraremeat;thelemonintheposthocmarinade“cooks”italittlemore.
3Whilethesteakiscooking,placethethymeleaves,garlic,oil,lemonzest,juice,salt,andpepperinawideshallowdish.
4Oncethesteakiscooked,placeitinthedishofmarinadefor4minutesaside,beforeremovingittoaboardandslicingthinlyonthediagonal.
Serves4
SEAREDSALMONWITHSINGAPORENOODLES
Iknowthelistofingredientsislong,butalotofthisisstuffthatwillhelpyougenerallyifit’spartofyourcupboardstash.Ifyoudon’twanttogoinforspecialtyshoppingatall(Iloveit,andnowcanindulgemyselfonline,too)thenreplacethetinydriedshrimpwithabout½cupofsmallfrozen(thoughthawthemfirst)shrimp.SherrycouldbeusedinsteadoftheChinesecookingwine,thoughIshouldtellyouthatIgetthisverystraightforwardlyfrommylocalsupermarket.
FORTHESALMON:2teaspoonsmediumMadrascurrypowder1teaspoonsugar¼teaspoontablesalt4approx.6–8-ozsalmonfillets1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil
1Mixthecurrypowder,sugar,andsaltinawide,shallowdishanddredgethesalmoninthis,turningthepiecesalloverintherub.
2Heatapanwiththeoilandcookthefilletsonhighheatforabout2–3minutesaside,searingthesidesofthefilletstooiftheyareverythick.
Serves4
FORTHENOODLES:8ozvermicelliricenoodles½cupdriedshrimp½cupChinesecookingwine1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil2cupsfinelyslicednapacabbage1cupbabywholecorn,slicedintothinrounds2scallions,finelysliced
2teaspoonsmediumMadrascurrypowder1teaspoonmincedfreshginger1cupchickenstock(fromconcentrateorbouilloncubes)3tablespoonssoysauce
2cupsbeansprouts¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro
1Putthericenoodlesintoabowlandcoverwithboilingwater.Leavethemtosoakfor4minutesandthendrainthem.
2Soakthedriedshrimpinthewine,thenheattheoilinawokandfrythe
lettuce,babycorn,andscallionsforafewminutes.
3Addthecurrypowderandmincedgingertothewok,andthenthestockandsoy.Pourintheshrimpwiththeirwineandthedrained,soakednoodles,tossingandshakingeverythingalltogetherinthewok.
4Finallystirinthebeansproutsandgiveafinaltossbeforeturningoutintoabowlandsprinklingthecilantroover.
Serves4
LAYEREDSALADWITHROASTQUAIL
Thisstartedofflifeinmykitchenasalayeredsaladwithcoldchickeninthemix,butIfeltthatthejuicycrunchinessofthesalad,itsglorious,brightsimplicitydidn’tneedtobefleshedout.Roastquailseemedtometobeinjusttherightregister,andwhat’smoreridiculouslyeasytodealwith.Ifyouwant,youcancookthemalittleahead,sincethey’regoodwarmratherthanhot.Andifthereissaladandquailleftover,thentakethemeatoffthelittlebirdsandtossitinthesaladthenextday.Servewithapileof,preferablywarm,flatbreadsandquiteafewfingerbowls.
juiceof1lemon1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt⅓cupoliveoil2teaspoonshoney½teaspoondriedmint;driedthymeisalsogood12quailAbout1lbromainelettuce,slicedinto½-inchshredstomake5cups1bunch/1cupradishes,trimmedandslicedintofinerounds½cucumber,partlypeeledtogiveastripyeffectandcutinto½-inchchunks1redbellpepper,deseededandcutinto½-inchchunksseedsfromhalfapomegranate(⅓cupseeds)2tablespoonschoppedfreshmintleaves
1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthelemonjuiceandsaltintoajar,addtheoil,honey,anddriedmint,andthenputonthelidandshakelikemad.
2Arrangethequailinprobablyacoupleofroastingpans,andpouroverhalfthejarofdressing,bastingthebabybirdswellbeforetheygointheoven.
3Roastthequailfor30minutes,andwhilethey’recookinggetonwiththesalad.
4Layerthesaladideallyintoastraight-sidedglassbowl,drizzlingalittleoftheremaininghalfjarofdressingfromthequailoneachlayerasfollows:romaine,radishslices,cucumberchunks,redpepper,morelettuce,andthenpomegranateseedswiththechoppedmintsprinkledontop.
Serves6–8
ETONMESS
ThereisnovariationofthisdessertIdon’tlike,andImusthavemadeseveralinmytime.Thisoneusesbottled,properfreshpomegranatejuicetoencouragethestrawberriestooozeouttheirfragrantsummeryjuices.Ifyou’remakingthiswithout-of-seasonstrawberries,thenyoustandachanceofusingfreshlysqueezedpomegranatejuice,inwhichcase,sprinklesomeseedsontopofthisvoluptuousmoundofmeringueandberry-spikedcream.
4cupsstrawberries2teaspoonsvanillaorgranulatedsugar2teaspoonspomegranatejuice2cupswhippingcream
4smallpackagedmeringuenests
1Hullandchopthestrawberries.Putintoabowl,addthesugarandpomegranatejuice,andleavetomaceratewhileyouwhipthecream.
2Whipthecreaminalargebowluntilthickbutstillsoft.Roughlycrumblein4ofthemeringuenests—youwillneedchunksfortextureaswellasalittlefinedust.
3Takeoutabouthalfacupfulofthechoppedstrawberries,andfoldthemeringuedcreamandtherestofthefruitmixturetogether.
4Arrangeon4servingplatesorglassesorinamound,andtopeachonewithsomeoftheremainingmaceratedstrawberries.
Serves4
CARIBBEANCREAMS
Thisisareworkingofmygrandmother’sBarbadoscreams:We’regoingthewayofthecoconutandthebanana.It’sscarcelyafancydessert,butsometimesIthinkitcanbesweetlycomfortingtohavesomethingalittlehomespun,andalmostfromthenursery.Thisisnotthatfarfromthatoldfavorite,bananasmashedwithcreamandbrownsugar.Hardtobeat,tobesure,butthecoconutyogurtandrumcertainlyaddalittlesomething.
Youneedtomakethesethemorning(ordaybefore,ifthatfeelseasier)oftheeveningyouwanttoeatthem,buttheytakenomorethan5minutestoprepare.Sotheyareveryquicktomakeandyoueasetheburdenonthatshorttimeafteryougetbackfromworkintheevening.
¾cupcoconutyogurt¾cupheavycream1tablespooncoconutrum,suchasMalibu(optional)1banana2tablespoonsdarkbrownsugar
1Stirtogethertheyogurtandcreamwiththerum,ifyou’reusingit,andwhiskuntilslightlythickened.
2Slicethebananaandthendividetheslicesbetween4x½cupramekinstoformalayeratthebottomofeachone.
3Spooninthethickenedyogurtandcreammixture,fillingtheramekinsequally.
4Sprinkleabout1½teaspoonsofsugarovereachramekin,andthenwraptheminplasticwrapandplaceinthefridgeovernightorfortheday.
Serves4
FLOURLESSCHOCOLATEBROWNIES
Howevermuchpeoplehaveeatenthereisalways,I’venoticed,roomforabrownie.Thisisadifferentkindofabrownie,mostdefinitelyforparty-dessert,melting,fudgy,anddamplyrich.Icompoundthesequalitiesbyservingitwithicecreamanddarkchocolatesaucethatfollowsbutthereisnoneed.Needisnotreallywhatwe’retalkingabouthere,though,isit?
8ozsemisweetchocolate1cup(2sticks)butter1cupsugar2teaspoonsvanillaextract3eggs,beaten1½cupsgroundalmonds1cupchoppedwalnuts
1Preheattheovento325°F.Meltthechocolateandbuttergentlyoverlowheatinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.
2Addthesugarandvanillatothepanofftheheat,andletitcoolalittle.
3Beattheeggsintothepanwiththegroundalmondsandwalnutpieces.Turnintoa9-inchsquarebakingpanor,mostsensibly,useafoilone.
4Bakefor25–30minutes,bywhichtimethetopwillhavesetbutthemixturewillstillbegooey.Oncecooler,cutcarefully,fourdown,fouracross,into16squidgy-belliedsquares.
Makes16squares
HOTCHOCOLATESAUCE
3ozdarkchocolate,70%cocoasolids½cupheavycream2teaspoonsinstantespressopowderdissolvedin2tablespoonswater1tablespoongoldensyrup
1Breakupthechocolateandputintoaheavy-basedsaucepan.
2Addtheremainingingredients,thenplacethepanoveragentleheatandleteverythingmelttogether.
3Onceeverythinghasmelted,stirwell,takeofftheheat,andpourintoajugtoserve.
Makesenoughtodrizzleover16browniesquares
BLACKBERRYCRISP
Anothergloriousnursery-reworking,andnonetheworseforthat.Ifeelthatintheinterestsoffairtrading,IshouldprobablynamethisBlackberrySoggy,sincewhatissodelishaboutitisitsbutter-fudgytopping,butsince“crisp”iswhatthesekindsofnon-crumblepiesareknownas,Isticktothat.
It’ssimplicityitselftomake,andthedaughterofafriendofmine,whohadnever,evermadeadessertorbakedanythingbefore,hashadarunawaysuccesswithitthatthreatenstogo,delightfully,toherhead.Butadessertthisgoodquitereasonablycausesevangelicalfervor.Itseaseofassemblyisabonus.
Tokeepthecostsdown,youcouldsubstitutehalftheblackberrieswithchoppedpears,butanywayregardthisasanopenblueprintanduseanyfruityoufeellikeorisonhand.
½cup(1stick)plus1tablespoonbutter¾cuprolledoats½cupflour½cuplightbrownsugar½cupflakedalmonds¼cupsunflowerkernels
¼cupsunflowerkernels1teaspoongroundcinnamon4cupsblackberries¼cupvanillaorgranulatedsugar2teaspoonscornstarch
1Preheattheovento400°F.Meltthebutterandputtoonesideforamo.
2Combinetheoats,flour,brownsugar,almonds,kernels,andcinnamoninabowl.
3Tiptheblackberriesintoawideshallowbakingdish(Iusedoneherewitha3-cupcapacity),sprinkleoverthevanillasugarandcornstarch,andtumbleabouttomix.
4Stirthemeltedbutterintothecrisptoppingandspoonontopoftheblackberriestocoverbutnotabsolutelythoroughly.
5Bakefor25minutesandservewithicecreamorheavycream.
Serves4–6
CHOCOLATEMINTCOOKIES
Thisismyversionofafter-dinnermints:Dispensewithdessertandbringoutaplateofminty-breathedchocolatecookieswithcoffeeandtisanesinstead.
Thesedon’ttakelongtomakeupandbake,andIcan’ttellyouhowlovelyitistobeabletoopenthedoortopeoplewiththesmelloftheirbakingoozingwelcominglyoutintheeveningair.
¾cuplightbrownsugar½cup(1stick)softbutter1egg1teaspoonvanillaextract1cupflour⅓cupcocoa½teaspoonbakingpowder1cupbittersweetchocolatechips
GLAZE:½cuppowderedsugar2tablespoonsboilingwater1tablespoonunsweetenedcocoa,sifted¼teaspoonpeppermintflavoring
1Preheattheovento350°F.
2Creamthesugarandbutter(Iuseafreestandingmixerforease),thenbeatintheeggandvanilla.
3Mixtheflour,cocoa,andbakingpowderinabowl,andgraduallybeatintothecreamedmixture.Finally,foldinthechips.
4Usingaroundedtablespoonmeasure,spoonoutscoopsofcookiedoughandplaceonbakingsheetslinedwithbakingparchmentorSilpat,leavingalittlespaceinbetweeneachone.
5Bakefor12minutesandthenletthemsitonthebakingsheetforacoupleofminutesbeforemovingthemtoacoolingrack,withsomenewspaperonthesurfaceunderneath.
6Puttheglazeingredientsintoasaucepanandheatuntilcombinedtogether.Let
coolcompletelybeforeusing.
7Usingateaspoon,zigzagtheglazeovereachcoolingcookie.
Makes24
Escoffierfamouslysaidthatlanostalgie,orhomesickness,wassimplyalongingforthefoodofone’schildhood.AsaFrenchmanlivinginLondon,hehadreasontobemournfulperhaps,butthoseofuswholiveinthefood-fashion-obsessedworldhavecauseforwistfulnessevenifwehaven’ttransplantedourselves.Somuchofwhatweatewhenyoung,orwhatourparentsandgrandparentsatewhenyoung,hasdisappeared.
IamnotsurequitewhetherweshunthefoodofourpastasirrelevantandoutmodedbecausewearelessrootedinourculinarytraditionsthantheContinentalEuropeans,orbecause,havingabsorbedasenseofourgastro-inferiorityanddesperatetoshowournewcoolth,wearetooafflictedwithgawkyirony.Isuspectbothconditionsarelinked.ItisfranklyinconceivablethatanyoneinFrancewouldfeelthatceleriacrémouladewereembarrassinglyantiqueoranItaliandisdainspaghettiallacarbonaraforbeingold-fashioned.TheFrench,theItalianslovetheirfoodpreciselybecauseit’sold-fashioned,becauseitisthefoodtheirgrandparentsate,andtheyknowtheirgrandchildrenwill.
Inotherwords,thereisnosuchthing,tothecookortheeater,asRetro.AndyethereIam,lamentingourshortcomingswhilealmostboastingthatI,too,possessthembyvirtue—vice?—ofthisverychapter.Sobeit.Therearetoomanyreasonsforourbeingaswearetobeabletodisentangleordisinternow.Besides,IknowwhatImeanbyRetro,andIknowyoudo,too.
JustasIthinkit’spossibletofeelaninheritednostalgiaforthemusicone’sparentslistenedto,soIconcurthatmanyoftherecipesheremoreproperlybelongtotheeraofanearliergenerationthanmine.Ilovetheidea—andammadaboutthetaste—ofCrepesSuzetteandPineappleUpside-downCake,forexample,butIwasscarcelybroughtuponthem.Evenworse,IfeelthatIamnostalgicforaperiodofnostalgia.AllthecocktailsIdrankintheeightieswerethemselvesathrowback,andself-consciouslyso:ItwasArtDecoonlywithouttheelegance.Yes,Ididpossesssomeblackmartiniglasses—andyes,Ihaveboughtsomerecently,allthebettertofillwithWhiteLady(onepartlemonjuicetotwopartsCointreauandfourpartsgin)andifthatsoundslikeacampfolly,Ishoulddeclarethatitonlylookslikeajoke.
AndIsupposethat’sthething:Theaffectationofamusement,theattitudeofwhimsicalirony,theyarejustsurfacesilliness.Therealthingis,thatthefoodweremember,orrememberourparentsremembering,isfoodwewanttoeat.There
remember,orrememberourparentsremembering,isfoodwewanttoeat.Thereisn’tonerecipethatfollowsherethatIdon’trelishandpurelyongustatoryterms.ForwhatIlackinsentimentality,Imorethanmakeupforingreed.
AVOCADOCRAYFISHCOCKTAIL
Ieatanenormousamountofavocados.Somepeoplearerepelledbytheirsoft-clayrichness;Iamdrawntoit.AndIremember,too,whenIwasreallyquiteyoung,justinmyteens,readingthatthedogsthatlivedinavocadoorchardsalwayshadshiny,glossycoatsbecauseofallthewindfallfruittheysnaffledupdaily.Thatimagehasstuckwithme,anditissuchanappealingone.IalwayshaveitinmindasIpreparemyselfanavocado,whichisoften.
Andwhen,theotherday,Ifoundmyselfbuyingapairofold-fashionedavocadodishes,IknewIhadtobealittlemorebackward-lookinginmystyleofeating(mostoften,Ijustsprinklewithcoarsesaltandspritzwithlime),sothisismyversionontheavocadoshrimpcocktailofyore.Forme,it’sthewayforward.
1tomato2teaspoonssherryvinegar1teaspoonextravirginoliveoil½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt½cupcooked,peeledcrayfishtails1ripeavocado1teaspoonchoppedfreshcilantro
1Halvethetomato,scoopoutanddiscardtheseeds,andchopwhat’sleftwell,droppingthepiecesintoabowlwiththesherryvinegar,oliveoil,andsalt.Whisktomakeadressing.
2Justbeforeyouwanttoeat,stirthecrayfishtailsintothedressing.
3Halvetheavocado,removethepit,spoonthecrayfish-tomatomixturemoundinglyintothehollowswherethepitwent,andsprinklewiththecilantro.
Serves2
SMOKEDTROUTPÂTÉ
Smokedfishwasanabsolutestapleofmychildhood—Iusedtohavesmokedmackerelwithhorseradishinmylunchbox—andIfeelifI’vegotsomeformofsmokedfishinthefridge,thereisalwaysgoingtobe,instantly,somethingtoeat.Pepperandlemon,that’sallyouneedforit.Andit’sagifttothecookinahurry,too:Thispâtétakesthemerestmomenttomakeandyetitisawonderfulstarttoamealor,indeed,awholemealinitself.Idon’tevenneedasaladwithit:I’mhappywithtoast,crustybread,ormaybeevensomegoodboughtEnglishmuffinsorcheesescones,alongwithafewcornichonsandanyothertangypickle.
Thisdoesn’tmakeverymuch,butit’sfillingandalso—whichisobviouslyhowIlikeit—fullofpep.Ifyouwantsomethingalittlemilder,withlessboisterousheat,thenaddameresprinkleofcayenne.
2smokedtroutfillets,about4oztotal¼cupcreamcheese2tablespoonslemonjuice2tablespoonsoliveoil1tablespoonhorseradishsauce¼teaspooncayennepepper
1Putalloftheaboveingredientsintoablenderorfoodprocessorandblitzuntilsmoothandpâté-like.
2Spatchintoabowl—Iuseasmallterra-cottadishofabout4½inchesdiameter—andcoverwithplasticwrapbeforechillinginthefridge.
Serves4asastarter
CHEF’SSALAD
Iamnochef—anddon’tneedanyoneelsetopointthatout—soperhapsthisshouldmorecorrectlybecalledCook’sSalad.Eitherway,itisanirresistiblemix,andonethattastessomuchbetterinthemouththanitreadsonthepage.
Iamunapologeticaboutcelebratingthemuch-malignediceberglettuce,andfeelperfectlyequableaboutyourusingtheready-tornbitsoflettuceinbags.IshouldownupthatIkeepapackageofready-gratedEmmentalinthefridge,whichIgenerallyuseinthis.Andthereissomethingaboutcannedsweetcornthatisinstantlycomforting,especiallywiththecool,softchunksofavocado.Itis,indeed,thegloriousmixoftexturesthatmakesthissaladsuchaknockout.Howcoulditeverhavefallenfromfavor?
1headiceberglettuce2cupscubedham(½-inchcubes)1cupdrainedcannedsweetcorn1cupgratedEmmentalcheese
1ripeavocado,peeled,pitted,anddiced
FORTHEDRESSING:½teaspoonDijonmustard1tablespooncabernetsauvignonvinegar½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil
1Teartheiceberglettuceintopiecesintoalargebowl.
2Tossintheham,drainedsweetcorn,gratedEmmental,andavocadochunks.
3Whisktogetherthedressingingredientsinaseparatebowl,andthenpouroverthesaladbeforetossingeverythingtogether.
Serves6asastarteror2–4asasupperorlunchdish
OUEFSENCOCOTTE
MymotherusedtobakeeggsforSundaysupper,mostweeks,whenIwasachild—andIhaven’teatenthemsince.Orthatwasuntilrecently,whenIfeltanurgentandgreedyneedtoresurrectthem.Mymotherusedtocooktheminaprettylowovenfor19minutes,and19minutesexactly;sincethisis“express,”Ibakemineinamoderateovenforaquarterofanhour—andlusciouslyperfecttheyaretoo.
TheonlyotherchangeIhavemadeisanextravagantaddition:Iaddadroportwoofwhitetruffleoilontopofthecream,ontopoftheegg.Otherflavoradditions—alittlechoppedham,dicedcookedmushrooms,herbs,someslicedartichokeheart—shouldgointhebase,beforeyoucrackintheegg.
Thisisaverycomfortingandyetluxuriousstarter,whichhelpsyousomewhat,inthatyoucouldgivepeoplethisfollowedbysomeplainchickenandagreensaladandtheywouldconsidertheyhadfeastedlikeoligarchs.
Iamhappytospoonthecreamyeggstraightoutofitsramekindishbutsomethickslabsoftoastedsourdoughorgoodwheatbread,slicedintochunkyfingers,arederigueurasatablesideaccompaniment.Ifyoufeellikepushingtheboatout,considersupplyingsteamedasparagusspearstoo.
Butterforgreasing6fabulousorganiceggs1½tablespoonskoshersalt6tablespoonsheavycream1½tablespoonswhitetruffleoil
1Preheattheovento375°Fandputafullkettleofwateron.
2Dipapastrybrushinasoftstickofbutterandgrease6ramekinsofabout½cup(4oz)capacityeach,puttingthemintoanovenproofpanordishasyougo.
3Crackaneggintoeachramekin,followedby¼teaspoonsalt,1tablespoonofcream,andfinally¼teaspoonofthewhitetruffleoil.
4Pourboilingwaterintothepantocomeabouthalfwayuponeachramekin,putintheoven,andbakefor15minutes.Serveimmediately.
Serves6
MOUCLADE
Forsomereason,thislesser-knowncousinofmoulesmarinierehasfallenfromfavor.That’stosay,Ihaven’tseenitonamenuoreatenitanywhereoutsideofmykitchenforalongtime.Andyetit’ssogood,withitscreamy,mildlycurriedsauce.
Thisisverymuchaquickversion:Iuseready-washed,debeardedmussels;Iusescallionsinplaceofchoppedonionorshallot;andIdon’tsieve,strain,reduce,oranyofthat.Itmeansthatthisisslightlysoupierthanthetraditionalversion,butallthebetterforthat.Buyabaguetteortwotomopupthefragrant,creamyjuicesandconsideryourselfamongthetrulyblessed.
4½lbsmussels4babyleeksorscallions,finelysliced2clovesgarlic,peeledandfinelysliced2cupswhitewineor1cupNoillyPratand1cupwater2teaspoonsmediumMadrascurrypowder½cupheavycream
1Soakthemusselsinsomeclean,coldwaterand—iftheyhaven’tbeendealtwithinthestore—thensortthroughthem,debeardingandknockingoffanybarnacleswiththebackofasmallknife.
2Usingalargepanwithalid,putintheslicedbabyleeksorscallions,garlic,whitewine(orNoillyPratandwater),andcurrypowderandbringtoaboil.
3Tipthemusselsintoacolanderanddiscardanythathaven’tclosed.Tumbletherestintothepan,clamponthelid,andcookonhighheatforabout3minutes.Shakethepanaroundastheyarecooking.
4Whenyouliftthelidthemusselsshouldhaveopened.Discardanythathaven’t.Addthecream,andthenturnintoabowltoserveortakethepanstraighttothetable.Remembertoputoutplatesfortheshells.
Serves4
CHICKENLIVERSALAD
Nowthisisarealblastfromthepastforme.IstartedmoonlightingasarestaurantcriticduringthegreatGastronomicRenaissance,aseveryoneseemedtoheraldit,abouttwentyyearsagowhenIwasaneageryoungthing,oralmost,andtherewasscarcelyarestaurantthatdidn’thaveasaladetièdeofthissortonitsmenu.Generally,thedressingwasmadewithraspberryvinegar,thatwasentirelythevogue,andIhavetriedtopayhomagetothisbyechoingthesour-sweetnessbydeglazingthepanofchickenliverswithmaplesyrupandsherryvinegar.OK,Iknowitsoundsodd—rebarbativeeven—butitisagorgeouspairing:onlyfugitivelysweetbutintenseandsmoky.
Italsohappenstobeaveryquicksupperfortwo,andnotthesortofquicklygot-togethermealthatfeelsdrearilythesame.
2tablespoonsoliveoil10ozchickenlivers8cupsarugula1tablespoonsherryvinegar1tablespoonmaplesyrup1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt
1Heattheoilinaheavy-bottomedskilletandcooktheliversforabout7minutes,turningtheliversaboutinthepanregularlyandsquishingthemasyoudosotohelpthemcookevenly.
2Whiletheyarecooking,arrangethesaladontwoplates.
3Oncetheliversarecooked,theirrawnessinsideturnedtomousseypink,takethepanofftheheatandquicklyaddthevinegarandsyruptothepan.
4Stireverythingabout,thendividethedressedliversbetweentheplateswiththejuicefromthepan.
5Sprinklethesaltoverandservewarm.
Serves2
CHEESEFONDUE
Idon’tsupposethisisevergoingtowinplauditsfromtheWorldHealthOrganization,butacheesefondueissurelythestuffofdreams.Ontheplusside,healthwise,Iloveitbestwithradishes,endive,spearsofradicchioandcarrotsdippedin,butIdon’tknowwhyIamtryingtoengagewiththatparticularargument.Thepointis,itmakesafabuloussupper:filling,gorgeoustoeat,andconducivetogoodatmosphereandevenbetterspirits.
Makeavatofthis,andsupplynothingotherthanfruitafterwardor,atmost,alittlepalate-ticklingsorbet.
1¼lbschoppedorgratedcheese—useamixturesuchasGruyère,Emmental,Brie,andCamembert1¼cupswhitewine
2teaspoonscornstarch3tablespoonsKirsch1clovegarlic,peeledgoodgrindingofpeppergoodgratingofnutmeg
TOSERVEWITH:carrotbatons,trimmedradishes,radicchio,andendivecutintospearsorskinnywedges,cubesoftoastedsourdough,andwhateverelseyouwishtodip
1Putthechoppedorgratedcheeseintothefonduepotwiththewineandheatuntilboilingonthestove,bywhichtimethecheeseshouldhavemelted.
2Turnthepotdowntoasimmer.Slake(whisktogether)thecornstarchwiththeKirschinasmallbowl,andaddtothefonduepotalongwiththegarlicclove.
3Seasonwiththepepperandnutmegandmovethefonduepotontoaflameatthetable.
Serves4
GOUJONSOFSOLEWITHDILLMAYONNAISE
Goujonshavefallenoutoffavoroverthelasttwodecades,butitishardtoworkoutwhy.Thecrunchofthebreadcrumbcasing,thetender,yieldingsoftnessofthewhitefishwithin:thisisafishfingertakentothehighestlevel.Thetraditionalaccompanimentistartarsauce,butmyfavoriteisadillmayonnaise,withperhapssomecornichonstumbledonaplatenearby.
Considertheseafabulouslyquickstarterwhenyou’vegotpeopleoverorarealtreatforamidweeksupperfortwo.Thetrickistoprepareaheadforthat.Imakeupavastbatchoftheseandfreezethem.Then,whenit’sdinnertimeandIdon’tknowwhatI’mgoingtocook,Iheatsomeoilinapanandfryahandfulfromfrozen.Theybarelyneedanextraminute.Iprefertofryinbatchesinasmallsaucepanratherthanfillafryingpanwithlotsofoilandtryandgetthemalldoneatonce.
Ifyoucanfindpanko,theJapaneseseasonedbreadcrumbs,thengetthem:Theycreateanalmostfeatherybutcrunchycasing.
2lemonsolefillets,skinned½cupcornstarchsaltandpepper2eggs1cupbreadcrumbsor2cupspanko1cuppeanutorgrapeseedoilorasneededdependingonthesizeofthepan
1Cutthesolefilletsinhalflengthwise,andthensliceeachfillethalfintoaboutfourlongstripsonthediagonal.Thiswillgiveyou8goujonsfromeachfillet.
2Putthecornstarchintoashallowbowlandseasonwithsaltandpepper.Beattheeggstogetherinanotherbowl,andputthebreadcrumbsorpankointoanadditionalshallowbowl.
3Dipeachgoujonintotheseasonedcornstarch,coatingitwell,thenthebeateneggs,andfinallythebreadcrumbs.
4Laythegoujonsonacoolingrackforawhile,andheattheoilinapan.(Oratthispointyoucanfreezethembetweenlayersofbakingparchmentinan
airtightcontainer.)5Frythegoujonsforabout2minutes,oruntilcrispandgolden.Removetopiecesofpapertowelasyougotoremoveexcessoil.
Makes16,enoughforabout3peopleasamaincourse,5asastarter
DILLMAYONNAISE1cupmayonnaise,preferablyorganic⅓cupfreshdill½–1teaspoonlimejuice,totaste
1Putthemayonnaiseintoabowl,andfinelychopthedill,addingittothemayo.
2Stirinsomelimejuiceandtasteforseasoning.
CREPESSUZETTE
ThisisprobablythequeenofRetrodessertsanddeservedlyso.This,myversion,isaspeeded-upandsimplifiedonebyvirtueofusingstore-boughtcrepes.Butthereisnoneedtofeelthisisacop-out.Forone,theycanbeincrediblygoodbut,morepertinently,bythetimethey’vebeendousedandsoused,nottomentionflamed,theideathatyoucoulddiscerntheiroriginsislaughable.
Ifyouhaveonlyeverthoughtofcrepessuzetteassomeamusingvestigefromanirrelevantculinarycanon,thinkagain.No,justforgetthoughtandcutstraighttocookingthis.
juiceof2orangeszestof1orange¾cup(1½sticks)butter⅓cupsugar8–12crepes⅓cupGrandMarnier,Cointreau,ortriplesec
1Pourtheorangejuiceintoasaucepan,andaddthezest,butterandsugar.Bringtoaboil,andthenturntheheatdowntoasimmer,cookingforafurther10–15minutesuntilthesaucebecomessyrupy.
2Foldthecrepesintoquartersandthenarrangetheminalargepan,oranyflameproofdish,slightlyoverlappinginacircularpattern.
3Pouroverthewarmsyrupandthengentlyheatthecrepesthroughforabout3minutesoverlowheat.
4Warmtheorangeliqueurofyourchoiceintheemptiedbutstillsyrupysaucepan.Whenthecrepesarehotintheorangesauce,pourovertheliqueurandsetlighttothepantoflambéthem.Serveimmediately,spooningcrepesandsauceontoeachplate.
Serves4–6
MANGOSPLIT
EvenbythetimeIwasyoung,abananasplithadbeguntoloseitsglory,butthenotion,fruitcombinedwithicecreamandsauce,isagoodone.
ItakeadvantageofwhattheCoventGardentradersusedtorefertoas“queergear,”i.e.exoticfruit,andreplacetheworld’sfavoritefruit—bananas—withcubedmango.Ratherlazily,Ioftenbuythemangoesthatmygreengrocer,andallsupermarkets,chopforyou.
Incidentally,thisisoneofmychildren’sfavoritedesserts,thoughIleaveouttherumandcoconutforthem.Forme,bothresolutelystayin.IamoftheMoreIsMoreschoolinthisregard.
2tablespoonsshreddedcoconut¼cuppackedlightbrownsugar1tablespoonbutter1tablespoonlimejuice1tablespoondarkrum1piececandiedginger,optional1ripemangoor1tubcubedripemango2scoopsvanillaicecream
2scoopsmangosorbet2cigarcookiesorfanwafers,optional
1Toastthecoconutinadrysmallishskilletuntildarkgolden.Transfertoasmallbowltocool.
2Inasaucepan,meltthesugar,butter,limejuice,andrumandletitcometoaboilandbubblefor2minutes.Turnofftheheatbutleaveonthestove.
3Finelychopthecandiedginger(ifusing)andpeel,thendicethemangointoabout½-inchcubes.
4Placeascoopeachofvanillaicecreamandmangosorbetinto2dessertbowlsorinto2sundaeglasses.
5Tumbleinthemangocubes,thenthestickychoppedgingerintoeachdish,andfinallysprinkleoverthearomaticallytoastedcoconut.
6Spoonoverthestill-warmsyrup;thereisn’tahugeamountperdishbutyoudon’twantitswamped.
7Ifthemoodtakesyou,stickacigarcookieorfanwaferintoeachsundae.
Serves2
CHERRYCHEESECAKE
Thisrecipehasoverturnedalifetime’sprejudice—whichisgood,butunsettling.Ihadalwaysbeenacommittedbelieverthattheonlytruecheesecakewastheproper,bakedcheesecake,butnowI’mnotsosure.Thisimproper,unbakedcheesecake,afeatureonmanya1970sdessertcart,hasentirelywonmeover.It’slight,ithastang,itisrapturouslygood.Thefactthatitisspeedilyeasytomakeismorereasonforgeneralhilarityandjoy.
EveninthespiritofRetro-accuracy,pleasedonotbetemptedtoopenajarofcherrypiefillingoverthecake.IusesomeFrenchcherryconcoctionthatseemstobeprettyuniversallyavailableandhasnoaddedsugar,butanythinglabeled“conserve”asopposedto“jam”shouldbesafe.
And,ifyoufeellikeit,whencherriesareinseason,strewthetopwithacoupleofhandfulsofbeautifulfruit.
1¼cupsgrahamcrackercrumbs6tablespoonssoftbutter2tablespoonsgranualtedsugar10ozcreamcheese
½cuppowderedsugar1teaspoonvanillaextract½teaspoonlemonjuice1cupheavycream110-ozjarSt.DalfourRhapsodiedeFruitsBlackCherrySpreadorcherryconserve
1Mixthegrahamcrackercrumbswiththebutterandsugaruntilthemixturecoheres.
2Pressthismixtureintoan8-inchspringformpan;pressalittleupthesidestoformaslightridge.
3Beattogetherthecreamcheese,sugar,vanilla,andlemonjuiceinabowluntilsmooth.
4Lightlywhipthecream,andthenfolditintothecreamcheesemixture.
5Spoonthecheesecakefillingontopofthegrahamcrackerbaseandsmoothwithaspatula.Putitinthefridgefor3hoursorovernight.
6Whenyouarereadytoservethecheesecake,unmolditbyremovingthesidesofthespringformpanandspreadtheblackcherriesoverthetop.
Serves6–8
PINEAPPLEUPSIDE-DOWNCAKE
Thisisabitbeforemytime,butIhavevaguenurserymemoriesofafriendofmygrandmother’smakingaversionofthis,whichshewouldservewithawarmsaucemadeofpineapplejuicethickenedwith—Iimagine—cornstarch.ThatIcandowithout,butIamstillofthemindthatitisperfectlyallrighttomakethiswithcannedpineapplerings.Ifeelitisslightlybadsporttostartpeelingandslicingyourownpineapple.
Anyway,thecannedpineappleisjustfine,thoughIadvisegoingfortheoneinitsownjuiceratherthaninsyrup,andIaddsomeofthejuicetothecakebatter,too.Thisseemstohelpmakeitlightandfluffy.
Ihavefoundthatthebestwayofkeepingthisswiftistobakeitinmycoppertartetatintin;ifyouareusingaregularcakepan,bepreparedtoaddafewminutesontothecookingtime.
Butterforgreasingthepan2tablespoonssugar6slicescannedpineapplerings⅓cupcandiedcherries⅔cupflour½cup(1stick)softbutter½cupsugar
2eggs1teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda3tablespoonspineapplejuicefromthecanofpineappleslices
1Preheattheovento400°F.Butteratartetatintinthatis9incheswideatthetopand8inchesindiameteratthebottom.Orbutteracast-ironskilletoran8-or9-inchnonspringformcakepan.
2Sprinklethe2tablespoonsofsugaroverthebutteredbase,andthenarrangethepineappleslicestomakeacircularpatternasinthepicture.
3Filleachpineappleringwithacandiedcherry,andthendotoneineachofthespacesinbetweentherings.
4Puttheflour,butter,sugar,eggs,bakingpowder,andbakingsodaintoafoodprocessorandrunthemotoruntilthebatterissmooth.Thenpourinthe3
tablespoonsofjuicetothinitalittle.
5Pourthismixturecarefullyoverthecherry-studdedpineapplerings;itwillonlyjustcoverit,sospreaditoutgently.
6Bakefor30minutes,theneaseaspatulaaroundtheedgeofthepan,placeaplateontop,andwithonedeft—ha!—move,turnitupsidedown.
Serves8
Idon’twishtosoundunsympathetic.Obviously,thefactthatIamwritingabookexpresslyconcerned,asitwere,withgoodfoodthatcanbepulledtogetherquickly,establishes,Ihope,mybonafidesinthisregard,butIhavetoownuptosomedegreeofimpatience.Thethingis,wheneverpeople,perhapsshowingaslightlypatronizingamusementathowoftenIcook(andmaybeit’sthatwhichirks),claimthattheythemselvesneverhavethetimetocook,itmakesmefeeluncharacteristicallyaggressive.WhatIwanttopointoutisthattheyarehardlyusingthetimetheysavebynotcookingwritingWarandPeace.Idon’tsaythatfindingtimetocookmakesyouabetterperson,butnordoIthinkthatbeing“toobusy”tocookmeansthatyourlifehasautomaticallyhigherpurpose.AndIsaythatasonewhooftenprofessestobebeyondbusybutsomehowfindstimetoslumpinfrontoftheTVwatchingCSIrepeatsforhoursonend.
ThetimesIdohavereadysympathywiththetoofrazzledandfraughttocookbrigadeisafterchildren’sbirthdaypartiesandatbreakfast.Iamnotgoodatbreakfast.IeatitbecauseIknowImust,butgivenachoiceIwouldratherwaituntillateronintheday.Besides,sinceImusthavetwocupsofteabeforeIevencometo,itoftendoesn’tleavealotoftimeforfiddlingaroundwithbreakfast,especiallyifyourmorninginvolves,asminedoes,takingchildrentoschool.
Thewayofcoping,Ihavefound,istoberatherunimaginativeaboutwhatyoueatonwaking.JustasInevergottoworkontimeinthelong-gonedayswhenIhadanofficejobwithoutlayingoutthemorning’sclothesbeforeIwenttobedatnight,soIfindIcanspeedthroughmytasksalittlefasterinthemorningifIknowinadvancewhatI’mgoingtoeatforbreakfast.Onemoment’shesitationandIbecomeavictimofchoice,overindulgedandpetulantandunabletobepleased.
WhatthismeansineffectisthatIhavemonth-orsix-week-longrunsofanygivenbreakfast—soft-boiledeggwithtoast,oatmealwithblueberries,muesliwithyogurtandpomegranateseedstociterecentexamples—beforeslidingontothenextrotation.Ithink,forweekdays,thismakesperfectsense.Butonweekendsorwhenwe’renotatwork,itcanfeelliberatingtolivebeyondtheroutine.
I’malsohappieronweekendstoeatlunchlaterandthereforewantabiggerbreakfast,anhourorsoafterI’vetea’dmyselfintoconsciousness.That’snottosayalltherecipesthatfollowcouldn’tbedoneduringtheweek—theycould,andeasily.Soplease.Overtoyou.
andeasily.Soplease.Overtoyou.
GOGET’EMSMOOTHIE
Thisistrulyaweekdayspecial:abreakfastthatcombinesfoodanddrinkforpeoplewhodon’tfeelthey’veevengottimetositdowninthemorning.
Iftheperson-in-a-hurryisminiatureinstature,andnotprogressedtocaffeineintake,thenreplacetheespressopowderwithatablespoonfulofpeanutbutter.Extraproteinandultradelicious.
Ikeepoverripebananas,peeledandcutintoquarters,inbagsinthefreezerwhichhelpgiveice-creamybulktothesmoothieanddispensewiththeneedforice.
1peeledfrozenbanana,quartered⅔cupmilk1tablespoonhoney4teaspoonschocolatemalteddrinkpowder½teaspooninstantespressopowder
1Putallingredientsintoablenderandwhiztomix.
2Pourintoatallglassanddrinkbeforedashingoutthedoor.
Serves1
CHOPPEDFRUITSALAD
Thisismyideaofaninvigoratingweekdaybreakfast,andImakeanalreadyeasyrecipeevenmoremanageablebychoppingupthefruittheeveningbeforeandleavingitincoveredbowlsinthefridge.Iknowthatsomepeoplemightworryaboutthelesseningofvitamincontentthereby,butIassureyouthatunlessyougrowyourownfruitorgetupbrightandearlyandbuyitfromafarmerwho’sjustpickedhis,thenyoumightaswellnotstartworryingabouthowmanyvitaminsyou’relosingbydoingalittlebitofin-advancechopping.Betterthannoteatingatall,tobefrank,andIalsoratherliketheswallowingwithoutchewingaspectthatalittlesteepinggives.
ThisisthefruitItendtouse,althoughthekeypointhereisreallywhatIhaveinthefridge.Thepomegranatejuicebelowisoutofabottle,butifyou’reusingout-of-seasonstrawberries,useasqueezeofrealjuicetosteeptheberriesandreplacethemixedseedswithagloriouslyjeweledtoppingofpomegranateinstead.
1cupfinelychoppedstrawberries1teaspoonpomegranatejuice½cupdicedmango½teaspoonlimejuice¾cupblueberries½cupvanillayogurt2teaspoonsmixedseeds(pumpkin,sunflower,sesame)
1Mixthechoppedstrawberrieswiththepomegranatejuice.
2Spritzthemangocubeswiththelimejuice.
3Using2tumblersorglasses,layertheingredientsstartingwiththestrawberriesandthenthemango,blueberries,yogurt,andfinallytheseeds.
Serves2
BREAKFASTBRUSCHETTA
SomethingthatisservedfromCaliforniatoTuscanyasaneveningsavoryorappetizermaynotseemanobviouschoiceforbreakfast,butIsay:Thinkagain.Thisisquicktomake,absurdlyeasyinfact.Thestrangethingisthatitisaseasytoeat,evenfirstthing.Icanwolfthisstuffdown.
FORTOMATOBRUSCHETTA:2tablespoonsoliveoil2thicklyslicedshortpiecessourdoughtoast1ripetomato—approximately4oz—roughlychoppedsaltandpeppertotaste
FORAVOCADOBRUSCHETTA:1ripeavocado2teaspoonslimejuicesaltandpeppertotaste4thicklyslicedshortpiecessourdoughtoast1tablespoonfreshlychoppedparsley
1Drizzlemostoftheoliveoiloverthetoast,topwiththechoppedtomatoes,andseasonbeforedrizzlingtheremainingfewdropsofoilontop.
2Halvetheavocado,scoopthefleshintoabowl,andmashroughlyusingaforkalongwiththelimejuice.Seasontotaste.
3Spreadclumpinglyoneachwaitingpieceoftoastandsprinklewiththeparsley.
Serves3to6,dependingonappetite
HOMEMADEINSTANTPANCAKEMIX
Thisisgoingtochangeyourlifeirrevocably.Forgiveanyscintillaofself-congratulatorypreeningandacceptmyboastassimple,enthusiasticexuberance.Thatisthespiritinwhichitisintended.ButItellyou:Justmixtheingredients,keeptheminacontainerateasyreach,andtheneverytimeyouarerequiredtobetheusher-forthofgoodthingsofamorning,justscoopsomedrymixtureout,mixandwhisktogetherwithegg,milk,andmeltedbutter,byhandorinablender—andthat’sit.Pancakesaplenty,withoutevenhavingtothinkaboutit.Youknowitmakessense.
FORTHEPANCAKEMIX:4cupsflour3tablespoonsbakingpowder2teaspoonsbakingsoda1teaspoonsalt2tablespoonsplus2teaspoonssugar
Mixtheaboveingredientstogetherandstoreinajar.
TOMAKETHEBATTERANDTHEPANCAKES:Tomakethepancakes,foreach1cupofpancakemix,addandwhisktogether:1egg1cupmilk1tablespoonbutter,melted
1Heatadryflatgriddleorpan—noneedtooilit.
2Spoon1½to2tablespoonsofbatterontothehotgriddleandwhenbubblesappearonthesurfaceofthelittlepancakes,flipthemovertomakethemgoldenbrownonbothsides.Aminuteorsoasideshoulddoit.
Makes15pancakesofabout3inchesindiameter
BLUEBERRYSYRUPFORPANCAKES
Accordingtothosewhomakeittheirbusinesstoknowsuchthings,bothmaplesyrupandblueberriesaresupremelyhealth-givingandwondrouslygoodforyou.Thisisfinebyme,sinceIlovethem,separatelyand—bywayofanewexperiment—incombination.Ifyouhaveanyleftover,youwillnoticethatitsetsintoakindofglossyjam.Thiswillkeepforafewdaysinajarandputinthefridge,andisgloriousdollopedintoyogurtorspreadonbread.
½cupmaplesyrup1½cupsblueberries
1Putthesyrupandblueberriesintoapanandbringtoaboil.
2Letbubblefor8–10minutes,andthenpourintoapitcherandbringtothebreakfasttablewiththepancakes.
Makesenoughforthepancakes,above
BREAKFASTBARS
Iamaddictedtothese,andsoiseveryoneIgivethemto.Althoughthey’requicktothrowtogether,theydotakenearlyanhourtobake,sowhatIsuggestis,makeabatchontheweekendandthenyouwillhavetheoaty,chewybarsreadyandwaitingforthosedayswhenyouhavetosnatchbreakfastontherun.
Mindyou,theyarejustlikemilkandcerealinbarform,sothere’snothingtostopyounibblingonewithyourmorningcoffeeathomeeveryday.Ifyouarenotamorningperson,believeme,theywillmakeyourlifeeasier.
Theyalsostorewell;indeed,theyseemtogetbetterandbetter.Sojuststashtheminatinandremovewhenyouwant.
114-fl-ozcancondensedmilk2½cupsrolledoats(notinstant)1cupshreddedcoconut1cupdriedcranberries1cupmixedseeds(pumpkin,sunflower,sesame)1cupnaturalunsaltedpeanuts
1Preheattheovento250°Fandoila9x13-inchbakingpanorjustuseadisposablealuminiumfoilone.
2Warmthecondensedmilkinalargepan.
3Meanwhile,mixalltheotheringredientstogetherandaddthewarmedcondensedmilk,usingarubberspatulatofoldanddistribute.
4Spreadthemixtureintotheoiledorfoilpanandpressdownwithaspatulaor,betterstill,yourhands(wearingthosedisposablelatexCSIglovestostopyoufromsticking)tomakethesurfaceeven.
5Bakefor1hour,remove,andafterabout15minutes,cutintofouracrossandfourdown,tomake16chunkybars.Letcoolcompletely.
Makes16
PEARANDGINGERMUFFINS
Theseareparticularlygood:nothingfancy(Ihateabreakfastmuffinthatthinksit’sacake),butthepearkeepsthetexturelusciousandthegingerpermeateseverything,includingyourkitchen,withitshuskyheat.ThismakesforthekindofSaturdaybreakfastIcanhappilysettleinto.AndI’mprettykeenonaquicksnacklateroninthedayofoneofthesenowcooledmuffinswithsomesharp,hardcheese,aCheddarmaybeorCaerphilly,oracrumbly,pungentblue.
Youcanmixallthedryingredientsinabowl,andthewetonesinalargemeasuringcup,coverbothwithplasticwrap,andleavetheformerinacoolspotinthekitchenandthelatterinthefridge.Thenallyouhavetodoispeelandchopthepearandforkeverythinglazilytogether.Idaresayyouwillnotgetpunishedfromonhighifyoudon’tbothertopeelthepear,either.Ido,simplybecauseIlovethewaythejuicyfruitmergeswiththecrumbwhentherearenobarrierstoitsoozing.
1¾cupsflour¾cupgranulatedsugar½cupplus6teaspoonspackedlightbrownsugar2teaspoonsbakingpowder1teaspoongroundginger⅔cupsourcream½cupvegetableoil
1tablespoonhoney2eggs1½cupspeeledandchoppedpears,about¼-inchdice
1Preheattheovento400°F,andlinea12-cupmuffinpanwithpapermuffincups.
2Measureintoabowltheflour,granulatedsugar,the½cupofbrownsugar,bakingpowder,andgroundginger.
3Inalargemeasuringcup,whiskthesourcream,oil,honey,andeggstogetherandthenfoldthisintothedryingredients.
4Lastly,mixinthepeardiceandthendividethebatterevenlyamongthemuffincups.
5Sprinkleeachonewith½teaspoonbrownsugarandthenbakefor20minutes.Removetoacoolingrack.Besteatenstillalittlewarm.
Makes12
CHOCOLATECROISSANTS
FirstletmesaytoyouthatifIcandothis,youcan.AsIhavenevertriedtohide,Ihavenopatienceandevenlessdexterity.Butthisischild’splay:Indeed,youcouldconsidergettingchildrentomakethem.Theycertainlylikeeatingthem,andtheytendtolikeeatingwhattheymakethemselvesevenmore.
Halfa17.2-ozpacketready-rolledbutterpuffpastry2½ozchocolate(milkordarkdependingontaste)1egg,beaten
1Preheattheovento425°F.Unfurlthesheetofpastryandthencutitinto4squares.
2Cuteachsquarediagonallytogive2triangles(theywillappearquitesmall).Putthetrianglewiththewiderpartfacingyouandthepointawayfromyou.
3Breakoffsmallpiecesofchocolate(approx.½inch)toplaceabout¾inchupfromthewideendnearestyou.
4Thencarefullyrollfromthatchocolate-loadedendtowardthepointofthetriangle.
5Youshouldnowhavesomethingresemblingastraightcroissant.Sealitlightlywithyourfingertipsandcurlitaroundintoacrescent.
6Placethechocolatecroissantsonabakingsheetlinedwithbakingparchment,aluminumfoil,orSilpatandpaintwiththebeatenegg.Bakefor15minutesuntilgoldenandpuffyandexuberantly,ifminiaturely,croissant-like.
Makes8
ORANGEFRENCHTOAST
ThereisnotatypeofFrenchtoastIdon’tlove,butthisversion,akindofeggy,squidgytoastandmarmalade,istheperfectmixturebetweenmorning-sharpandweekendtreatiness.
2eggs¼cupwholemilk¼teaspoongroundcinnamongratedzestof1orange2large,thicksliceswhitebreador4smallerslicesjuiceofanorange¼cupfinecutorangemarmaladesuchasTiptree“Crystal”
¼cupsugar1tablespoonbutter
1Whisktheeggs,milk,cinnamon,andorangezestinawideshallowdish.
2Soakthebreadslicesinthismixturefor2minutesaside.
3Whiletheeggybreadissoaking,bringtheorangejuice,marmalade,andsugartoaboil,thenturndowntoafastsimmerfor3–4minutes.Ifyouneedto,letthissyrupstandwhileyoucookthebread.
4Heatthetablespoonofbutterinaskilletandcooktheeggybreadforabout2minutesasideovermediumheatuntilgolden.
5ServetheFrenchtoastwithsomeoftheambersyruppouredovereachslice,andapitcherofextrasyrupontheside.
Serves2
GREENEGGSANDHAM
Thisisanotherbrunchdishwhich,frankly,canbeeatenatanytimeofthedaywithequalrelishandhasalsoinitsfavorthatchildren(whoinmyexperiencewouldprobablyeatanythingifithadpestoinit)loveit.Thisisentirelyproper,ofcourse,giventhat—veryobviously—therecipeisinspiredbytheGoodDoctor.
Whatyou’remakingineffectarepestopancakes—andthesewillbebetterifyouuse“fresh”pestothatcomesinaplastictub,notinajar—whichcanbewhizzedupinablenderandthenneedsamomentortwoinahotpanbeforebeingwrappedaroundfinelysliced,tenderlypinkham.
⅔cuplow-fatmilk½cuppesto½cupflour1eggoilforfrying5largethinhamslices
1Blendorwhisktogetherthemilk,pesto,flour,andeggtomakeabatter.
2Oilacrepepanorheavy-bottomedskillet,wipingawayanyexcessoilwithapapertowel,andplaceovermediumheat.
3Ladleinapproximately⅓–½cupofbatter,swirlinginstantlytogainapaper-thincrepe.
4Oncethetopbecomesdryandtheedgesliftaway,flickitoverwithathinrubberorwoodenspatulaforabout30secondstocooktheotherside.
5Layerthepancakesbetweenpiecesofbakingparchmentorwaxpaperasyougo,andwhenyouhavefinishedmakingthemlayasliceofhamoneachoneandrollintotrianglesorhoweveryoulike!
Makes5
Makes5
FRITTATAPARTY!
IlovethesortofthinomelettestheItalianssometimesturnintosandwiches:coldandpressedbetweentwopiecesofmayonnaisedbunorslicesofschiacciata.Andthat’swhatI’dwarmlyadvisehereintheunlikelyeventthatyouendupwithleftovers.Buttheyaresogoodhotandstraightoffthepress,eateneitherwithknifeandforkorrolledupwithinawarmedtortilla,thatIurgeyoutomorphintoakindofshort-orderomelettecooknexttimeyouhaveabatchofpeopletofeedconviviallyinthemorningornotlongafter.
Thewaytomakethiseasyis,firstgetagoodpan(IlikeaScanpanCrepePan),thengetoutloadsofeggsandleavethemoutnearamixingbowlbythestove,andthenmixupafewideasforfillingsandsetthemoutintheirbowlsnearby.Then,allyoudoiscracktwoeggs,addyourfilling,fry,tossout,andgetonwiththenext.
I’vejotteddownwhatIputintheomelettesopposite.Obviously,Idon’texpectyoutoberestricted,butIthoughtitmightbehelpful.
FOREACHOMELETTE:2eggs½teaspoonbutterandadropofoilforfrying
FORTHECHEESEOMELETTE:¼cupgratedEmmental(butanycheeseshoulddo)
FORTHECHILEOMELETTE:1longredchile,deseededandsliced¼teaspoongroundcoriander¼teaspoongroundginger
FORTHEGREENOMELETTE:½cupwatercressorbabyspinach(or,indeed,arugula,finelychopped)forfrying1scallion,finelysliced
FORTHEHAMOMELETTE:½cupchoppedham
1Beattheeggswiththefillingofyourchoice.
2Heatacrepepanorheavy-bottomedskilletwiththebutterandoil.
3Oncethepanishot,pourintheeggmixture,swirlingquicklytogetanevenandthincoatinginthepan.
4Lettheomelettecookforacoupleofminutesovermedium-highheat.
5Lifttheedgeoftheomelettewithaspatulatocheckthatitissetandgoldenunderneath;thetopoftheomeletteshouldbejustaboutsetbutstillalittlegooey.
6Sliptheomeletteoutofthepanontoaplateandfliponehalfoftheomeletteovertheother,orfoldin3likeabusinessletter.Carryon!
CROQUEMONSIEURBAKE
Likemanygoodbrunchrecipes,thisisalsojusttheticketforanearlyeveningsupper,thesortyoueatinyourdressinggownbeforesophisticatedadultsfeelitisentirelypropertodine.
ThejoyofthisisthatyoumakeupthemustardyhamandGruyèresandwichesandcoverwithbeateneggsthenightbefore,andjustletthemsitinthefridge,meldingintoonesavory,gooeypuddingovernight.Thenextmorninggoesasfollows:ovenon;egg-and-breaddishin;bruncheffortlesslyserved.
6slicesready-slicedmultigrainbrownbread⅓cupDijonmustard4ozGruyèrecheeseslices3slices/3ozham6eggs1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt⅓cupwholemilk4tablespoonsgratedGruyère,Emmental,orCheddargoodsprinklingofWorcestershiresauce
1Spreadthemustardonthebreadslicesandmakesandwicheswiththefineslicesofcheeseandham.Puteachsliceofcheeseagainstthemustardybread,andthehambetweenthem.Makethesandwichandcuteachoneinhalf,makingtwotriangles.
2Squishthesandwichesintoabakingdishapproximately10½by8¼inchesand2¼inchesdeep.
3Beattogethertheeggs,salt,andmilk(Imeasureoutthemilkintowhateverthemustard’sbeeninformaximumflavorpenetration)andthenpourthisoverthesandwichestightlypackedinthedish.
4Coverthedishwithplasticwrapandleaveinthefridgeovernight.
5Nextmorning,preheattheovento400°Fandtakethedishoutofthefridge,removingtheplasticwrap.
6SprinkleoverthegratedcheeseandWorcestershiresauceandbakeintheovenfor25minutes.
Serves4–6
Ihaveneverquiteunderstoodwhypeoplearesoobsessedwithhowlongarecipetakesor,rather,howlongsomethingtakestocook.Certainly,Iwouldneversuggestmyslow-cooked24-hourporkwhenyougethomefromworkatsevenandhavepeoplecomingtoeatateight.Thatwouldbesilly.Butformostofourlives,thetimeneededtocooksomethingistheleaststressfulaspect;whatyoushouldbeconsideringishowmuchtimeyouarerequiredtospendinthekitchen.ThisiswhyIwouldsomuchrather,whenI’mtiredandlackinginimpetusandinspiration,putachickenintoroast—whichwilltakeanhourorsotocook,duringwhichtimeIamnotneeded—thanstartchoppingupthingstostir-fry,whichmighttakeonlytenminutesbutforallofthosetenminutes,Iwillberequiredtobusymyselffrenetically.
Iexultintheliberationthatcomesfromslow-cooking.AndIadorethefeelingofsecurityandmessyorganizationthatemanatesfromthecozyknowledgethatthereissomethinggentlybraisingawayintheovenor,even,stillsnuglywrappedinthefridge,readyandwaitingforitsoventime.This,forme,isoneofthesmallpleasuresofeverydaylife.Itmakesmefeelinvolvedinthekitchen,withfood,whenI’mbusyelsewhere.Ican’tsetasidehugetractsoftimetogeteverymealreadywhenit’sneeded,sowhatIdoisalittlebitofprephereandthere,afive-minutethink-aboutandplanning,sothatwhenIdoneedtocook,it’snearlyalltakencareof.AllIhavetodoisapplyheat.
Idon’thaveavigorousdo-it-aheadplanofattack,butItryandtakesomeofthestepsearly.So,IstashsteaksandchickenpartsinmarinadessothatI’vegotsomethingreadytobeflungonagrillorunderabroilerwithoutforethoughtattheendoftheday.AndtheonethingIfeelutterlybeatenbywhenI’mreallytiredistheideaofpeelingandchoppingonions.Idon’tactuallyfinditdifficult,butthethoughtisadauntingone.So,whenIhavetimetospare(usuallywhenI’mavoidingsomethingIshouldbedoing),Ipeel,chop,andfryonionsslowlyandgentlytoagorgeousmushthatcanbefrozenincubesandthawedtoformthebasisforasteworsaucewhenneeded.
Ialsolikeasmallamountofquietlysatisfyingjar-fillinginmylife.It’sscarcelystrenuous,deeplyenjoyable,andalsomeansyouhavethewherewithalfordessertwheneveryouwantatsomeunforeseenfuturepoint.IfillajarwithgoldensultanasandpourGrandMarnieroverthemandletthemsteep.I’vealsobeenknowntogothemoretraditionalrum’n’raisinroute,andverygoodtheybothare.Iputmorellocherriesandcherrybrandyinajar,and—averyrecent
bothare.Iputmorellocherriesandcherrybrandyinajar,and—averyrecentinnovationandrubilygorgeous—mixdriedcherriesandberries,that’showthey’relabeled,withapomegranateliqueurcalledPama.Anyoftheseisexquisitetumbledovericecream.
Slow-cooking,quitesimply,canbetheexpressroute.Whenyouthinkaboutit,thereisalmostacosmicpathosaboutourcontemporarybeliefthatyoucan“save”time.Icansaveyouenergyand,importantly,stress.
Besides,Ican’tliveeveryminuteofmylifeasaspinningtop,whippingmyselftogoeverfaster.Myquick-quick-slowapproachisn’tjustaboutofferingpracticalhelp;itactuallychangestheemotionaltenorofthehouse.
MAPLECHICKEN’N’RIBS
Thisrecipesaysitall.Youneednomorethanafewminutestoloadupacoupleoffreezerbagswithribsandchicken,oils,andunguentsandthenafteradayorso’sun-troublesomemarinatinginthefridge,youtipoutthecontentstoaroastingpanandslotitintheoven.Yourinputisminimal,butwhatyougetisabigfeastthatfeelshomeyandwelcomingandmakeseveryonehappy,youincluded.
12porkspareribs12chickenthighs,skinandbonestillon1cupapplejuice,assharpaspossible¼cupmaplesyrup2tablespoonsvegetableoil2tablespoonssoysauce2staranise1cinnamonstick,halved6unpeeledclovesgarlic
1Puttheribsandchickenpiecesinacoupleoflargefreezerbagsorintoadish.
2Addalltheremainingingredients,squelchingortossingeverythingtogetherwellbeforesealingthebagsorcoveringthedish.
3Leavetomarinateinthefridgeovernightoruptotwodays.
4Takethedishoutofthefridgeandpreheattheovento400°F.
5Pourthecontentsofthefreezerbaginto1or2largeroastingpans(makingsurethechickenisskinsideup),placeinthepreheatedoven,andcookforabout1¼hours,bywhichtimeeverythingshouldbestickyandglossedchestnutbrown.
Serves6–8
CRISPYDUCK
I’vealwaysthoughtoneofthebestwaystoeatduckwasastheChinesedo,butIhadneverthoughtitwouldbesoeasytocook.Isay“cook.”Idonothingexceptcutsomefatofftheduckandsititonarackinapanandputitintheovenforhoursonend.ThenItakeitout,settowithsomeforks,andputsomestore-boughtChinesepancakesontosteam.Ichopandslicecucumberandscallionsandopenajarofhoisinsauce.Actually,cometothinkofit,Inearlyalwaysasksomeoneelsetoopenitforme.Thiscouldhardlybeeasier.What’smore,childrenseemtoadoreit,whichmakesitareallylovelyfamilySaturdaydinner.It’seasytoaddanotherduckifthereareevenmoreofyoueating.
1duck4–6store-boughtChinesepancakes10ozjarhoisinsauce½cucumber6scallions
1Preheattheovento325°F.
2Cutofftheflapoffatthathangsovertheduck’scavity.Sitthetrimmedduckonarackorslottedtrayoveradeeproastingpanandroastfor4hours.
3Turntheovenupto450°Fandgiveafinal30minutesofintenseheat.Or,ifit’seasier,justleavetheduckinthelowovenfor5½hours.Thechoiceisyours.
4Sitthepancakesonthetoppartofasteamertocookorsimplyfollowinstructionsonthepackage.Pourthesauceinabowlwithaspoon.
5Cutthecucumberintomatchsticks(likeyougetinaChineserestaurant).
6Cutthescallionslengthwaysintoshortstrips(again,liketheydoinChineserestaurants).
7Carefullytaketheroastingpanoutoftheovenandtransfertheduckontoa
board.Whenyoucanhandleitcomfortably,shreditandsetitonthetablewiththesauce,cucumber,scallionshreds,andpancakes.Wraptheduckmeat,toppedwiththesauce,cucumbers,andscallion,inthepancakes.Whentheduckfathascooledalittle,pouritintoabowlorjar.Itmakesgreatfriedpotatoes.
Serves4–6
LAMB,OLIVE,ANDCARAMELIZEDONIONTAGINE
Nearlyallstewsstartwithchoppedonions.Thisisthelazyperson’sversion,whichusessomesweetonionconfitoutofajarinstead(thoughifyou’vemadesomeofyourownonionmush,dousethat).AndIaddtothedesirableidlenessbynotevensearingthemeat.Ijusttipeverythingintoabigpanandletitdoitsownsweetthingwithoutanyinterferencefromme.Idon’tactuallycookthisinatagine—thoughIoftenserveitinone—buteversincesomeonetoldmethatinMoroccomosttaginesaremadeinpressurecookers,Ihavefeltunembarrassedbycallingsomethingcookedinapanatagine.Andbyallmeansuseapressurecookerifyou’rethatwayinclined.I’vetriedthem,butalwaysreturntopotsandpansthatdon’thissatme.
Iprefertocookthisinalowovenratherthanonthestove,butalickingsimmerwoulddoaswell.Likeallstews,itbenefitsbybeingcookedinadvance,soitmakessensetocookthisonadaywhenyou’vegottime,andeatit—reheatingitonthestove,allofit,orinbatchesassuits—whenyou’reinmoreofahurry.
Thequickest,andmostsuitable,accompanimentisabowlofcouscous,paleandplainorstuddedwithacanortwoofchickpeas.
2¼lbsdicedlegoflamb1headofgarlic,separatedintocloves12ozpittedblackolivesinbrine,5ozdrainedweighttogive1¼cups½cupcaramelizedonionsfromajar4tablespoonscapers
2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundginger1750mlbottleredwine
1Preheattheovento300°F.
2Putalloftheingredientsintoacasseroleorheavy-bottomedpan,pouringinthewinelastandgivingeverythingagoodstir.
3Bringthepantoaboil,thenclamponthelidandputintotheovenfor2hoursoruntilthelambisverytender.
Serves6–8
LAMBSHANKSWITHBEANS
Thetroublewiththesortofspeedycookingthatcan’thelpbutbethemainstayofourdailyrepertoireisthatitnecessarilyleavesoutthefoodthatmakesyoufeelcozyratherthanbrisklyefficient.ButevenifIknowI’veonlygottenminutesoffreetimeovertwodays,IcanstillmakesureIgetsomethingbigandbolsteringonthetable.OnonedayIstickmylambshanksintomarinate,ontheotherIputthemintheoven,leavingthemtherewhileIbattleoverhomeworkortryandclearmydeskorwhateverotherdoomedtaskIsetmyself.
ThebeansI’mhappytogetoutofacan.IlovetheirpinksandbrownsandtonesofTuscanstoneandtheyturnapileofbonesintoafeast.
1cupwhitewine4tablespoonsredcurrantjellyplus1teaspoon2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce¼cupgarlic-infusedoilplus2tablespoons2onions,quartered
3-inchsprigrosemaryor1teaspoondried6lambshanks¼cupwater1tablespoonDijonmustard414-ozcansmixedbeans(sometimessoldasmixedbeansalad)saltandpeppertotaste
1Getouttwofreezerbagsanddividethewine,allbutthe1teaspoonofredcurrantjelly,Worcestershiresauce,thegarlicoil,androsemarybetweenthem.Addtheshanks,3toabag.Sealandputinthefridgeovernightorupto2days.
2Whentheshankshavehadtheirmarinatingtime,takethemoutofthefridgeandpreheattheovento425°F.
3Tipthecontentsofthebagsintoafoil-linedroastingpanandslotthisintheoven,turningitdownimmediatelyto325°Fandroastfor1½hours,thenremovetheshankstoawarmeddish.
4Inapanbigenoughtoholdthebeans,warmthewater,remaining2tablespoonsofgarlicoil,teaspoonofredcurrantjelly,andtheDijonmustard.Stirtocombineandaddthebeans,heatingthemgentlyandstirringoccasionallywithawoodenspoon.Seasontotasteandthenaddtothedish
withtheshanks.Servewithmoreredcurrantjellyandperhapsatomatosaladalongside.
Serves6
COQAURIESLING
IhavealwayslovedtheAlsatianversionofcoqauvinandthisisit,stunninglystreamlined.Ireplacetheonionwithleek,buybaconalreadycubed,andbuychickenthighs.Thedarkmeatisalwaysbestinastew.Idon’tbothertosearthemeat,whichreallymeansyouneedskinlessportions;unbrownedchickenskinisnotpretty.Ifyou’renotbuyingthighs,butthighfillets,thenitisprobablymorehelpfultothinkintermsofbonedweight,ratherthannumberofportions:go,here,forabout2¾pounds.
Itendnottoaddanycreamtothisthefirsttimearound,whichiswhyImentionitintheingredientslistbutnotinmymethod,butifIhaveasmallamountleftover,Iaddalittleheavycreamandturnitintoapastasauce.IliketoeatmycoqauRieslingastheydoinAlsace,withahugepileofbutterednoodles.Whetheryouaddcreamornotisentirelyuptoyou.
2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1cupcubedbacon1leek,finelysliced12skinlesschickenthighsor2¾poundsthighfillets1750-mlbottleRieslingwine10ozoystermushrooms,tornintostrips(4cups)3bayleaves
saltandpeppertotasteheavycream,optional1to2tablespoonsfreshlychoppeddill
1Heattheoilinacasseroleorlargewidepanandfrythebaconuntilcrisp.
2Addtheslicedleekandsoftenitwiththebaconforaminuteorso.
3Tipinthechickenthighs,wine,mushrooms,andbayleaves.
4Seasonwithsaltandpepperandbringtoaboil,coverthepan,andsimmergentlyfor30–40minutes,stirringinthecreamforthelastcoupleofminutesifyouwant.Likeallstews,thistastesitsmellowestbestifyouletitgetcoldandthenreheatthenextday.Butit’snohardshiptoeatstraightoff.Whichever,servesprinkledwithdill,andwithsomebutterednoodlesontheside.
Serves6
Serves6
SWEDISHSALMON
Ithinkofthisasacuriousamalgamofmytwograndmothers.Mymaternalgrandmotherwasapassionate,ifthatistherightwordtodescribestirringsforthefrozennorth,espouserofallthingsSwedish—design,decor,dill.Mypaternalgrandmothertaughtmetocooksalmonthisway,andthereisnobetter.That’stosay,youdon’treallycookit,youjustgetithotandletitgetcold.Ipromiseyou,youhavenevertastedcoldpoachedsalmontillyouhavetasteditthisway:Itstendercoralfleshisdelicatebutflavorsomeanditmakescookingforabigcrowd—thinkweekendlunchinthesummer—almostdisconcertinglyeasy.
Formeithastobeeatenwiththemustardydillsauce,whichiswhyIhavemergedthetworecipes(thoughfeelfreetosubstituteaplateoflemonorlimewedges,buteitherway,sitthesalmononaplatelinedwithwatercressorotherpepperyleaves)and,forchoice,withthecucumberandpotatosaladsthatfollow.
Ifitmakesyoufeelmorepositive,believemeyoudon’thavetohaveanyexperiencefilletingfish.Ifindthatcookedlikethis,youcanjustliftupthetailendandstartslicingandthewholetopfilletwillcomeoffinyourhands;removethebackboneandyouhavetheother.ButsometimesIjustcutoffpieces,asanyway,Ithinktheylookbetterontheplateifnotinhugechunks.Therearetoomanyvariablesatplaytobepreciseabouthowlongthesalmonwilltaketocook,butifyou’replanningtoeatitforsupper,makeitinthemorning;ifyouwantitforlunch,thenprepareitthepreviousdayorevening.
1salmon—preferablywild—approx.5lbs,cleanedandscaled1ozfreshdillplus3tablespoonschoppeddill4wholescallions
2tablespoonsplus1teaspoonkoshersalt,or1tablespoonplus½teaspoontablesalt2tablespoonsgranulatedsugar1teaspoonpeppercorns
3tablespoonsDijonmustard2tablespoonslightbrownsugar1cupsourcream3tablespoonswhitewinevinegar
1Laythesalmoninaroastingpan,cuttingitsheadand/ortailoffifnecessary,andstuffthecavitywiththebunchofdill.
2Addthescallions,2tablespoonsofsalt,thegranulatedsugar,andthe
peppercorns.Pourinenoughcoldwatersothatthesalmonisjustcovered.
3Putontheheatandbringtoaboil,turndowntoagentlesimmer,coverwithaluminumfoil,andletbubbletimidlyfor10minutes.
4Removethepanfromthestoveandturnthesalmonover.Don’tworryaboutrippingtheskinasyouwillbefilletingitlater.Letitcool,coveredlooselywithbakingparchmentorwaxpaper.
5Whenthewater’scold,thesalmonwillbeperfectlycookedandvery,verysucculentandtender.
6Removethesalmonfromitscoldpoachingliquidtoalargepieceofwaxpaperorbakingparchment.Removetheskin,andcarefullycutfilletsoffthefishinwhateverwayiseasiestforyou.
7Arrangeonaservingplateandgetonwiththesauce.
8Whisktogetherthemustardandbrownsugarandwhenmixed,whiskinthesourcreamandvinegar.Seasontotastewithsalt.Whiskinthechoppeddill.Transfertoapitchertoservealongsidethesalmon.
Serves10–12
SWEETANDSOURCUCUMBERSALAD
IlovethisMiddleEuropeansummersalad.Itisalsounfathomablygoodwithhotfrankfurters.Eventhoughitdoesgetalittlewaterier,itisstillfantasticafterit’sbeensittinginthefridgeforawhile,whichmakesitanothereasydo-aheaddish.Justtransfertoaservingbowlwithaspatulaifneedbe.
2mediumcucumbers2teaspoonssugar2tablespoonswhitewinevinegar2teaspoonskoshersaltor1teaspoontablesalt¼cupfinelychoppeddill
1Peelandfinelyslicethecucumbersintowafer-thincirclesandtransfertoalargebowl.
2Inameasuringcup,whisktogetherthesugar,vinegar,andsaltandpouroverthecucumbers,turningwelltomix.
3Addthechoppeddill,tossagain,andthenturnintoashallowservingdish.Orelse,coverwithplasticwrapandchillinthefridgeuntilneeded(upto4hours).
Serves10–12
WARMPOTATOSALAD
Ihaveadifficultywiththosepotatosaladsthatareclaggywithmayoandthatburntheesophaguswithtooenthusiasticascatteringofrawonion.Thisismoremything:nopeeling—tostartwith—andthen,finally,asousingwithwhitewinevinegarmixedwithmustardandbacon.Andthescallionsaregentle.Iloveitwarm,butsolongasyoumixthedressingandthepotatoeswhilethey’rethemselveswarm,itdoesn’tmatterifyoueatthesaladcold.Or,rather,atroomtemperature:Donotchillitinthefridge.Anddon’tcrumblethebaconovertillyou’rereadytoserveit.
4½lbsbabynewpotatoes4scallions,finelysliced1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil8slicesbacon
1–2teaspoonswhitewinevinegar1tablespoonwhole-grainmustard
1Bringapanofsaltedwatertoaboilandtipinthepotatoes.Cookfor20minutesoruntiltender,thendrainandcutinhalf(ifyoucanbebothered).
2Putthepotatoesintoalargebowlandaddthescallions.
3Heattheoilinthewarmpotatopanandcookthebaconuntilreallycrispy,thenremovetoaplate.
4Takeofftheheatandaddthevinegarandmustard.Givealittlestir,thentipinthepotatoesandscallionsandtosseverythingtogetherbeforetransferringtoaservingbowl.Youcanleaveitlikethisforanhourorso.
5Whenyouarereadytoserveit,crumbleovermostofthecrispbaconandtossagain,thensprinklewiththeremainingbitsofbacon.
Serves10–12
GRAVLAXSASHIMI
ThiswasnotintendedtobetheSwedishportionofthebook,butitoccurredtomeaftermakingsomegravlaxaChristmasorsoagothatthemethodwouldbeaverygoodwayofcuringapieceofsalmontocreatefear-freesashimiathome.
Obviously,aswellashavingsomeJapaneseflavors—thewasabiandsake,andnodill—thisisacompletelyeffort-freetakeonwhatcanbealittlefiddly.
Youcanbuythepieceofsalmonatthesupermarket,alongwiththeflavorings,andeverythinggoesinadishinthefridgeandisjustleftthereforthreedays,anduptofive.
Itmakesadifferentkindofsupperandaverygoodone:YoucaneatitasifitwereScandinavian,alongwithryebreadandgherkins,orashere,withmoreofanodtoitsJapaneseassociation,withsushirice,pickledginger,andablobortwoofwasabi.
1lbskinlesssalmonfillet3tablespoonskoshersalt3tablespoonssugar1½tablespoonssake1tablespoonwasabi
1Putthesalmoninaglassdish.
2Mixthesalt,sugar,sake,andwasabipasteinalittlebowlandsmearhalfofitoverthesalmon.Turnthesalmonoverandsmearovertherest.
3Coverthedishwithplasticwrap,makingsureyoupressdownonthesalmonandinthecornersbeforebringingitoveranddownthesidesofthedish.
4Placecansofvegetablesorunopenedjarsofpicklesonthesalmontoweightitandputeverythinginthefridgeforatleast2daysandupto5.
5Whenyouwanttoeatit,removethesalmonfromthedishandwipeitwithpapertowels.Putitonaboardandcutdownintostrips,thencuteachstripinto2or3piecestomakesashimi-suitableshapes.
Serves8
MOONBLUSHTOMATOES
Iusedtobalkatthe“sunblush”tomatoesyoucangetatspecialtyshops,thesortthataredrieddowntoessenceoftomatoandsteepedinoreganoandoil.ButIfindthemincrediblyusefulanddisconcertinglygood.I’dtriedmakingmyowninthepast,butevenwhenbarelyon,myovenseemedtoohotforthejob.Now,though,I’vehitontheway,whichissimplytoputtheminaveryhotoven,turnitoff,andleavethetomatoesovernight;hence“moon”blush.Iamaddictedtomakingthemnow.Feelfreetosubstitutethehomespunvarietyinanyrecipethatstipulatesstore-boughtsunblushtomatoesandI’veputoneofmyfavoriterecipesfortheirusagebelow,too.Frankly,though,they’rewonderfuleatenjustastheyare,withbread,cheese,orasasalad.
AndIalsomakethemexactlythesamewaywithlargetomatoes,roughlychopped—andseethemlookinggloriouswiththetunahere.Thismakesafabulousinstantpastasauce,too.
1lb,about24innumber,on-the-vinecherryorotherbabytomatoes2tablespoonsoliveoil2teaspoonskoshersalt1teaspoondriedthyme¼teaspoonsugar
1Preheattheovento450°F.
2Cutthetomatoesinhalfandsitthemcutsideupinanovenproofdish.Sprinkleovertheoliveoil,salt,thyme,andsugar.
3Putthemintheovenandimmediatelyturnitoff.Leavethetomatoesintheovenovernightorforadaywithoutopeningit.
SLOW-ROASTTOMATOES,GOATCHEESE,ANDMINTSALAD
8–10cupsarugulaorspinachleaves1cupsoftgoatcheese,suchasChavrie1batchMoonblushTomatoes,opposite2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil1tablespoonlemonjuice
2tablespoonsfreshlychoppedmint
1Arrangethearugulaorspinachonalargedish,thenscoopoutspoonfulsofthesoftgoatcheeseanddollopithereandthere.
2Addthecooked-down,intenselyredtomatohalves.
3Inthedishthetomatoeshadbeencookingin,whisktogethertheoilandlemonjuiceandpouroverthesalad.
4Scatterwithmint.
Serves8
LAZYLOAF
Itishearteningtoknowthatyoucanbeinapermanenthurryandnotspendmorethanafewminutesatanytimeanywhere,letalonejustinthekitchen—andstillmakeabeautifulloafofbread.
Thisisit—afewingredientslazilystirredtogetherinabowl,andthenintoabreadpanintheoven.Thereisnokneadingorrising.Itfeelslikeacheat,butitisn’t.It’stheright,realthing.
2¾cupswholewheatbreadflour2cupsbest-qualityoatyunsugaredmuesli(donotusegranola)2½teaspoons(1package)rapid-riseorinstantyeast2teaspoonskoshersaltor1teaspoontablesalt1cup2%milk
1cupwater
1Mixtheflour,muesli,yeast,andsaltinabowl,thenpourinthemilkandwaterandstirtomix.Itwillbeathickporridge.
2Transfertoagreasedorsilicon2lbloafpan;Ilikeonethat’sdeepandshortratherthanshallow.Putthisinacoldoven,turningitimmediatelyonto225°F,andleaveatthistemperaturefor45minutes.
3Whenthese45minutesareup,turntheoventemperatureupto350°Fandleavefor1hour,bywhichtimethebreadshouldbegoldenandcookedthrough.Slipitoutofitspanandalthoughdense—itisthatkindofloaf—itshouldfeelslightlyhollowwhenyouknockitunderneath.Youcanalwaysslipitbackintheoven,outofitspan,forafewminutesifyouthinkitneedsmorebaking.
4Removetoarackandletcool.
NO-CHURNPOMEGRANATEICECREAM
It’snothardtothinkofadessertthatcanbemadeinadvance.Butmostlytheadvantageissimplythatalltheeffortisupfrontandearly.Thethingaboutthisrecipeisthatyoudoitinadvance—it’sicecream,sothatstandstoreason—butwhatyoudoinadvanceisnegligibleintermsofeffort.Youdon’tmakeacustard,andyoudon’thavetokeepwhippingitoutofthedeepfreezetobeatthecrystalsoutofit.No,yousimplysqueezeandstir.
Ontopofthatcauseforgreatercontentment,thereisalsothefactthatthisdelicatepinkicecreamtasteslikefragrant,sherbetyheaven.
2pomegranates1lime1½cupspowderedsugar2cupsheavycream
1Juicethepomegranatesandthelime,strainingthejuicesintoabowl.Youwillhaveapproximately¾cupofpomegranatejuice.Reservethepomegranateseedsforgarnish.
2Addthepowderedsugarandwhisktodissolve.
3Whiskinthecreamandkeepwhiskinguntilsoftpeaksforminthepalepinkcream.
4Spoonandsmooththeicecreamintoarigidplasticcontainerwithatight-fittinglidandfreezeforatleast4hoursorovernight.Scatterwithpomegranateseedswhenyoueatit.
Serves8
IRISHCREAMTIRAMISU
I’velongbeentinkeringaboutwithabottleofBaileys,seeinghowitcouldbestbecalleduponinthekitchen,andIthink,withthis,I’vefoundit.AnItalianfriendofmine,whomakesakillertiramisuherself,wasaninstantconvert.Iwasrelieved;theItaliansgenerallyareconservativeabouttheirfood,whichgoessomewaytoexplainingthelongevityoftheircherishedculinarytraditions.Butthisonlysoundslikesomesortofjoke—“DidyouheartheoneabouttheIrishmanandtheItalian…?”—andinrealityisanelegantlybuff-tinted,creamy-tonedvariantofthepunchyifcomfortablyclichédoriginal.
1½cupsespressocoffee,madewith1½cupswaterand9teaspoonsinstantespressopowder1cupBaileysIrishCreamliqueur27.05-ozpackagesSavoiardi(Italianladyfinger)cookiesorotherladyfingers2eggs⅓cupsugar1lb/2cupsmascarponecheese2½teaspoonscocoa
1Makethecoffeeandletitcool(theespressopowderdoesmixfairlywellinroomtemperaturewater).
2Mixthecoffeeand¾cupoftheBaileystogetherinashallowbowl.
3Diptheladyfingersintothisliquid;letthemsoakoneachsideenoughtobecomedampbutnotsoggy.Linethebottomofan8½-inchsquareglassdishwithalayerofladyfingers.
4Separatetheeggs,butkeeponlyoneofthewhites.Whiskthetwoyolksandsugartogetheruntilthickandapaleryellow,thenfoldintheremainingquartercupofBaileysandthemascarponetomakeamousseymixture.
5Whiskthesingleeggwhiteuntilthickandfrothy;youcandothisbyhandwithsuchalittleamount.Foldtheeggwhiteintotheyolkymascarpone,andthenspreadhalfofthismixtureontopofthelayerofladyfingers.
6Repeatwithanotherlayerofsoakedladyfingers,andthentopwiththeremainingmascarponemixture.
7Coverthedishwithplasticwrapandleaveinthefridgeovernight.Whenyouarereadytoserve,pushthecocoathroughasmallfine-meshsievetodustthetopofthetiramisu.
Serves12,thoughitdoesn’thaveto…
FORGOTTENPUDDING
Thereisawonderfulpoetrytothenameofthisdessertwhich,thankfully,onceeatencouldneverbeforgotten.It’sanold,oldrecipepopularlyexhumed—Ibelieve—bythelate,greatRichardSax.Thinkofitasakindofmarshmallow-basedpavlova.That’stosay,youwhipeggwhitesasifmakingmeringue,spreadonajellyrollpan(orthat’showImakeit),andputinanovenwhich—aswiththemoonblushtomatoeshere—youimmediatelyswitchoff,leavingthepuddingtocookovernight—hence,“forgotten.”
Asfortheyolksyoudon’tuse:AddacoupleofwholeeggstothemandmakeanintenselygoldenversionoftheMexicanscrambledeggshere.
6eggwhites½teaspoonsalt1¼cupsplus2teaspoonssugar½teaspooncreamoftartar1teaspoonvanillaextract1cupheavycream4passionfruit1½cupsblackberries1½cupsquarteredstrawberries
1Preheattheovento450°F.
2Inalargebowl,whisktheeggwhitesandsaltuntilpeaksbegintoform.
3Graduallyadd¼cupofsugar,thenthecreamoftartarandvanilla,whiskingallthewhileathighspeed,untilthewhitesarestiffandglossy.
4Butterajellyrollpan,thenspreadevenlywiththemeringuemixture.
5Putintheoven,closethedoor,immediatelyswitchofftheoven,andleaveovernight,withoutopeningoreventhinkingofpeeking.
6Whenyouwanttoserveit,removetoalargeplatter.
7Whiskthecreamuntilthickbutstillsoftandspreadoverthemarshmallow-meringue.
8Scoopouttheseedsandpulpofthepassionfruitanddotoverthecreaminparts.Tumbleovertheblackberries.Tossthequarteredstrawberriesintheremaining2teaspoonsofsugarandarrangethemonthecream,too.
9Cutintoslices;Icut3downand2across.
Makes12squares
Oneoftheoft-citedlamentsofthosewhodon’treallyenjoycookingisthatamealtakessomuchlesstimetoeatthantocook.Idon’tmindthat,notleastbecauseIalwaysrelishabitofpotteringaboutinthekitchen;it’stheonlytimeIevergettomyself.Butalso,IhavetoadmittoanaffinitytothatVictorianworldview,theconstantharpingontheinevitabilityofdecline—“thewoodsdecay,thewoodsdecayandfall,”thatsortofthing—andtheremindersthatallthingsgobackintotheearthoruptotheheavens.Idon’tresisttheimplacablecycleofmeals,thekitchengrind.
Luckily,enoughofmylifeisspentonwhatfeelslikesomesortofcakewalktread-millformetohavesympathywiththosewhohavealesssentimentalattachmenttoboththekitchenandmyfondfutilism.Therearedays,andprobablythosedaysareinthemajority,whenIdon’tfeelI’vegotmorethantenminutestogetsupperonthetable.Yes,Iamwillingeverynowandagaintohavebreadandcheese.Ilovebreadandcheese.ButmostdaysIwantapropersupper.AndImean“proper.”Iamnotinterestedinmakingsomethingeasybutdispiritingtoeat:AsfarasI’mconcernedeveryeatingopportunityhastoberelished,andtheideaofwastingonebyeatingsomethingIdon’treallywantorthatdoesn’tgivemepleasureistoohideoustocontemplate.Ithappens,butIaminconsolableafter.
Actually,IeatsofastthatI’dhavethoughtitwouldbeimpossibleformeevertofindanyrecipethattakeslesstimetocookthantoeat,butdesperatetimesneeddesperatemeasures—andifanexhaustedweeknight,aftera6o’clockmeeting,arowoverhomework,andareproachfullistofunreturnedphonecallsandemailsdoesn’tcountasdesperatetimes,Idon’tknowwhatdoes.IneedfoodIcancookfastorelse—notleast—I’lleattoomuchwhileI’mwaitingforsuppertobeready.Cook,feedthyself.AndindeedIdo,onthesortsoffoodsthatfollow.Thesearerecipesthatarealmosttoobare-bonestobecalledthat,usingingredientsthatneedatmostaquickblitzinahotpanorabasic,effortlesswarm-through.They’remyfastfallbacks,thesortofmealsIcancookwhenI’msqueezedfortimeateveryangle.Inotherwords,youcandoasupermarketsweepatlunchandsnatchyourselfsupperintheevening.And,what’smore,thewashingup’sminimaltoo.
FLASH-FRIEDSTEAKWITHWHITEBEANMASH
WhenIwasachild,steakhousesalwayshadsomethingcalledminutesteak,asinminnit,onthemenu,economicallyattractiveportionsthatneededamere60secondstocookthrough.Inourhousetheywerepronouncedmynewtsteaks,asifinbaffleddisappointmentatthemeagernessofthemeatprovided.It’shardtothrowofftheideathatasteakshouldbesomethingchunkyandbigenoughtogetyourteethintoandIcertainlylikemymeatrare.WhenI’maskedatarestauranthowIwantmysteakcooked,Itellthemjusttohititontheheadandwalkitstraightthrough.SoIcandoaproper,fleshlysteaksupperprettydamnfast,butwhenyou’rereallyupagainstit,thisistheperfectalmost-instantdinner.UnderfiveminutesiswhatI’mtalkingaboutfromstarttofinish—andthatisn’tbad.Icouldhoneitdownbystickingtotheminutesteakidea,andit’sfine,onlythere’ssomethingalittleschooldinnersaboutthosesadlittlestragglyragsofsteam.Thisismycompromise:slenderbutstillsubstantialsteakthatcooksfor90secondsaside.Andinthattime,I’veproducedagarlicky,lemony,ultrafabulous,utterlyaddictivebeanmash.Belowmakesenoughforfour,moreiftherearechildreneatingtoo,butIhavetocomecleanandsaythatIdon’tquitehalvetheamountsforthemashwhentherearejusttwoofuseating.Thisisjusttoogood,andIsimplygodowntotwocansandalittlelessofeverythingelse.I’mafraidIdon’treallywanttoreduceanythingatall.
¼cupplus2teaspoonsoliveoilmostof1clovegarlic,crushedgratedzestandjuiceof1lemon314-ozcanswhitebeans1sprigfreshrosemary,optionalsaltandpeppertotaste4thin-cutsirloinorentrecotesteaks,about5ozeach
1Firstgetonwiththebeans:Putthe¼cupofoliveoilinasaucepan,minceinthegarlic,addthelemonzest,andwarmthrough.
2Drainthebeansandrinseunderataptogetridofthegloop,thenaddtothepanandwarmthrough,stirringandsquishingwithawide,flatspoonsothatthebeansgointoanubblymush.Addtherosemarysprig,ifusing,andseason
totaste;somebeanscomesaltierthanothers.
3Meanwhile,heatateaspoonofoilinalargeskilletandcookthesteaksonhighfor1½minutesaside.Removetowarmedplates,sprinklingsomesaltandpepper,totaste,overthemasyoudoso.
4Squeezethelemonjuiceintothehotpanandletitbubbleupwiththemeatyoil,thenpouroverthesteaks.Serveimmediatelywiththemash.
Serves4
CHICKENSCHNITZELWITHBACONANDWHITEWINE
Itstandstoreasonthatifyouwantfoodtocookquicklyitneeds,firstofall,tobefitforthepurpose.Thincutsofmeat—and,indeed,fish—areobviouscontendershere,butyoudohavetomakesurethatspeeddoesn’ttakepriorityovertaste.Achickenschnitzel,orescalope,grilledplainiscertainlyfastfare,butitwouldn’tmakeyouskiptothedinnertable.Baconcomestotherescuehere;nothingfancy,justsweet,saltyribbonscourtesyofOscarMayer,whichIalwayskeepinthefridgeforjustsuchaneventuality.
There’ssomethingaboutthecomingtogetherofbaconandwhitewinethatissimple—butever-compelling.Forme,it’sthesmell,thelure,ofcarbonaraandwhatitdoeshereisoozeitswaythroughthepan-scorchedchickentomakethisfeellikeatreat.Andifyoucandothatwithaboneless,skinlesspieceofchickenbreast,you’redoingsomethingright.
Ilovethiswithsomeslendergreenbeans—evenmychildrendo—andifyouhaveanyleftover,chopitupandheatwithalittlecreamandParmesantomakeaquickpastasauce.
1teaspoongarlic-infusedoil4stripsbacon44-ozchickenescalopesorbonedandskinnedbreasthalves⅓cupwhitewine
1Putthegarlicoilinaskilletandaddthebacon.
2Frytillthebacon’scrispandthepanisfullofbaconyjuices,removethebacontoapieceoffoil,wrapit,andsetitasideforamoment.
3Frythechickenforabout2minutesaside,untilthereisnopinknesswhenyoucutintoapiece.Makesurethepan’shotsothattheescalopescatchalittle,turningbeautifullybronze.
4Removethechickentoaservingplateandquicklycrumbleinthebaconyou’vesetaside,thenpourthewineinandleteverythingbubbleup,andpouroverthechickenpieces.
Serves4
HIGH-SPEEDHAMBURGERWITHFASTFRIES
Iadoreaproperburger,butitdoesneedtobeaproperone.AndalthoughI’vebeensuccessfulinvariousversions,I’venevermadeonethathasbeeneitherquickorveryconvincing-looking.Luckily,myloveofgadgetry,combinedwithmycatalogue-compulsion,ledtothis:theperfectburger,inrecordtime.Iusesomethingcalled,straightforwardly,aBurgerPress.Youlineitwithalittlediscofwaxedpaper(thesediscscomewithit)andthenputinyour4ozofmeat,putanotherdiscontop,andpress.Youwillnotbelievehowmuchitmakesyouwanttoworkinaburgerfactory.
Ihadalwaysthoughtthatleanmeatmadetoughburgers,butaftermuchexperimentation,Ifoundthatthebestmeatforburgersisonethatissoldas“extralean,”whichmeansthatithas,typically,amere5percentfat.IuseAberdeenAngus.
Thefastfriesarenotasprofessionallookingastheburgers,butareeverybitassatisfyingtomake.Theycertainlyhelpyouridyourselfoftheday’sirritations.
8ozextraleangroundbeef1tablespooncaramelizedonionsfromajar1½teaspoonsbuttermilkorplainyogurt1½teaspoonssoysauce
1½teaspoonsWorcestershiresaucegoodgrindingofpeppervegetableoilforbrushing
1Mixthegroundbeefwiththeonions,buttermilk,soysauce,andWorcestershiresauce.Seasonwithpepper,thendivideintwoandformintotwopatties,eitherusingapressorbyhand.
2Heataridgedgriddleandlightlybrushtheburgerswithoil.Cooktheburgersfor2minutesonthefirstside,andthenflipthemandcookthemforanotherminute.Removeandletstandforaminuteortwo;thiswillgiveyoumedium-rareburgers.
3Servewiththefastfriesandsandwichinatoastedbun,ifyouwish,andaddlettuce,meltedbluecheese,andbaconorafried,poached,orsquishedsoft-boiledegg,asyoulike.
FASTFRIES
¼cupvegetableoil9oznewpotatoes
1Placethepotatoesinafreezerbagandhitthemwitharollingpinuntiltheyarebrokenintopieces.
2Heatafryingpanwiththeoiluntilhot,thenaddthepotatoesandcookfor5–6minutesasidewiththepanpartiallycovered.
3Removethepotatoestoaplatelinedwithpapertowels.
Serves2
HAMSTEAKSWITHPARSLEY
OfcourseI’mtemptedtodoahamsteakwithpineapple,andIwouldn’tbegintostopyou,butIreallythinkparsleyisthekeyhere.WhenI’vegottime,Iamhappytostandatthestovewhiskinguparoux,andstirring,stirring,stirringtousherforththeperfectvelvetyparsleysauce,butaquickflickofparsleyinapanworksinamoresprightlyway.
I’mallforpeasasanaccompaniment,andalwayshaveastashoffrozenonesattheready.Nevertheless,it’shardformetoforswearacanofluridlygreenmarrowfatpeashere.Yes,theyareprocessedandI’dprefernottoreadtheingredientslistonthebackofthecan,butIcan’thelplovingthem.Acanorjarofthosesmall,gray-greenFrenchpeaswouldbeanexcellentsubstituteforthoselackingmylowtastes.Orcookanddrainsomefrozenpeas,blendingthemwithalittleParmesan,pepper,andmascarpone.
2teaspoonsgarlicoil2cooks’hamsteaks,approx.7ozeach2tablespoonswhitewinevinegar¼cupwaterlotsoffreshlygroundpepper2teaspoonshoney¼cuproughlychoppedparsley
1Inalarge-ishskillet,heatthegarlicoilandwhenhotaddthehamsteaksandcookforabout3minutesaside.Removetotwowarmeddinnerplates.
2Takethepanofftheheat.Whiskthevinegarwiththewater,pepper,andhoneyandquicklythrowintothestill-hotpanalongwithmostoftheparsley.Swirlandstirandscrapetomixandpouroverthehamsteaks.
3Addthevegetableofyourchoice,inmyunembarrassedonetheultragreenprocessedpeas,andsprinkletherestoftheparsleyoverthetwoplatesoffoodbeforetuckingin.
Serves2
MIRIN-GLAZEDSALMON
Thismustbethefastestpossiblewaytocreateaculinarysensation.Youdoscarcelyathing—justdipsomesalmonsteaksinadarkglossypotion,mostofwhichyougetoutofjars—andwhatyoumaketastesasifyouhadbeendedicatinghalfyourlifetoachievingtheperfectcombinationofsweet,savory,tender,andcrisp.
Ifthereareonlytwoofyoueating,Iwouldbeinclinedtosticktoquantities,lettingacoupleofpiecesorwhateveryoudon’teatcool,asitmakesafantasticsaladthenextday.
Myfavoriteaccompanimenthereissushirice,andsinceIamweddedtomyricecooker,thisisnoworkandneedsnoskillwhatsoever.Justcookriceofyourchoice—ornoodlesifyouprefer—accordingtoinstructionsonthepackageifyouarecruellyrice-cookerless.
¼cupmirin(Japanesesweetricewine)¼cuplightbrownsugar¼cupsoysauce44-ozpiecesofsalmon,cutfromthethickpartofthefilletsothattheyarenarrowbuttallratherthanwideandflat2tablespoonsricevinegar
1–2scallions,halvedandshreddedintofinestrips
1Mixthemirin,sugar,andsoyinashallowdishthatwillholdall4piecesofsalmon,andmarinatethesalmoninitfor3minutesonthefirstsideand2minutesonthesecond.Meanwhile,heatalargeskilletonthestove.
2Cookthesalmoninthehot,drypanfor2minutesandthenturnitover,addthemarinade,andcookforanother2minutes.
3Removethesalmontowhateverplateyou’reservingiton,andaddthericevinegartothehotpan.
4Pourthedark,sweet,saltyglazeoverthesalmonandtopwiththescallionstrips.Servewithriceornoodlesasyouwish,andconsiderputtingsomesushigingeronthetable,too.
Serves4
TUNASTEAKSWITHBLACKBEANS
Freshtunaisgoodonlywhenit’sscarcely,ifatall,cooked;onceitsCarpaccioredfleshturnstothatgraymauve,youhaven’tgotdinnerinfrontofyou,butadisaster.This,ofcourse,istoouradvantagehere.Indeed,ittakesmarginallylongertoopenacanofbeans,drainthem,anddousethemindressingthanitdoestocookthefish.Sometomatosaladalwaysworks,too;hereI’vespoonedupsomeleftoverMoonblushTomatoes,oftheroughlychoppedratherthancherry-halvedvariety(seehere).
It’snotsurprising,then,thatImakethisvery,veryoftenforsupper.Igetthetunasteaksonmyweeklyassaultonthesupermarketandfeeljustthatlittlebitcalmertheminutethey’resafelyinmyfridge.
2teaspoonslimejuice1teaspoonfishsauce(nampla)2teaspoonschileoil1teaspoonhoney114-ozcanblackbeans2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro2thin-cuttunasteaks,approx.4ozeach½teaspoonkoshersalt
1Heataridgedgriddleandwhileit’sheatingup,getonwiththeblackbeansalad.
2Inabowl,whiskthelimejuice,fishsauce,chileoil,andhoney.
3Drainthebeansandrinsethemtoremovegloop,thentosstheminthedressingtocoatwell.Addmostofthecilantroanddividebetweentwowaitingdinnerplates.
4Slapthetwothintunasteaksonthegriddleandcookfor30secondsaside.Ifthetunasteaksarenotverythin,youmaywanttogivethemanother30secondseachside;cutintoonetocheckthatit’scookedasyoulikeitbeforeplacingthetunaontheplatewiththebeans,addingtomatoesoranyothersaladyoulike.Sprinklethetunasteakswithsomecoarsesalt(nottablesalt).
Serves2
SCALLOPSANDCHORIZO
I’velongbeenafanofscallopsandbaconandscallopswithchile,andthisismycombinationofthetwo,usingchorizo—thesausage,notthesalami—tooozeitspaprikahotorangeoiloverthesweet,whitescallops.It’squickerthanthespeedoflighttomakeandquiteasdazzling.
4ozchorizosausage1lbsmallscallops(halvethemtomake2thinnerdiscsiftheyareveryfat)juiceofhalfalemon¼cupchoppedfreshparsley
1Slicethechorizointoroundsnothickerthan1/8inch.
2Putapanonthestovetogethotandthendry-fry(thechorizowillgiveoutplentyofitsownoil)thechorizoroundsuntilcrispedoneitherside;thisshouldtakenomorethan2minutes.
3Removethechorizotoabowlandfrythescallopsinthechorizooilforaboutaminuteaside.
4Returnthechorizotothepanwiththescallops,addthelemonjuice,andletbubbleforafewsecondsbeforearrangingonaservingplateandsprinklingwithlotsofparsley.
Serves4asamaincoursewiththechickpeasandarugulathatfollow;wouldbefinewithjustalittleleafagefor8asastarter
CHICKPEASWITHARUGULAANDSHERRY
Thisisnotquiteastir-fry,thoughIdocookitinmywok.Thechickpeasgetsousedwiththesherryandinfusedwithcumin,andthearugula,orrathertangleofgreenthingsthatcomeinthepackagecalled“arugulasalad”atmysupermarket,wiltleggilyinthepan.Thisturnsthechorizoandscallopsintoafeistilyelegantmaincourse,andisausefulwayofprovidingaquick,fillingbowlofnot-the-usualvegetableswheneveryouwantaboost.
1tablespooncanolaorothervegetableoil2teaspoonscuminseeds214-ozcanschickpeas,drainedandrinsed8cupsarugulasaladorothertendermixedgreens¼cuprichcreamsherry
1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt
1Heattheoilandcuminseedsinawok.
2Addthechickpeas,greens,sherry,andsalt,giveagoodstir,andcontinuestirringoverheatuntilthearugulaandanyotherleaveshavewilted,thechickpeashavewarmedthrough,andtheliquidhasreducedalittle.
Serves4asanaccompanimenttothemaincourse,butyoucouldeatitbyitselftoserve2,withorwithoutapoachedorsquishedsoft-boiledeggeachontop
NECTARINEANDBLUEBERRYGALETTE
Agaletteisjustafancywayofsaying“Thisisapie,butdon’tgetyourhopesup.”Notthatthisisn’tgood—it’sverygoodindeed—butitisnotaperfectspecimen.Inaway,itsrawmaterialsarenotsoverydifferentfromthetartefineauxpommeshere,butwhereasthereeverythingisorderly,hereit’sallthrowntogether.Suitsme.
Onehalf(1sheet)ofa17.2-ozpackageall-butterstoreboughtpuffpastry,measuring9½x9½inches1tablespoonplus1teaspoonapricotconserveorlow-sugarapricotjam1tablespoonplus1teaspoonheavycream
1smallnectarine,cutinto12segments⅔cupblueberries1½teaspoonsDemerarasugar
1Preheattheovento450°F.
2LaythepuffpastrysheetoutontoabakingsheetlinedwithbakingparchmentorSilpatandusingthepointofasharpknife,scoreaframearoundtheedge,about¾inchin.
3Inasmallbowl,mixtogethertheapricotconserveandcreamandpaintorspreadthisonthepastrywithintheframe.
4ArrangethefruitontopandsprinklewiththeDemerarasugarbeforebakingfor15minutes.
5Cutintosquaresandeatwhilestillwarm.
Makes9slabs
INSTANTCHOCOLATEMOUSSE
Normally,youneedtomakechocolatemousseagoodfewhoursor,betterstill,aday,beforeyouwanttoeatit,sothattheeggyolksetsandthewhiskedwhitespermeateeverythingwithairbubbles.Forgetthat:Herewehavenoyolks,nowhites,nowhisking,nowaiting.
Lackofrawegg,incidentally,alsomeansthatyoumightbehappiergivingthemoussetosmallchildren,thoughIcertainlyfeeltheyshouldnotbetheonlybeneficiaries.
1½cupsminimarshmallows4tablespoons(½stick)softbutter9ozbest-qualitysemisweetchocolate,choppedintosmallpieces¼cuphotwaterfromarecentlyboiledkettle1cupheavycream
1teaspoonvanillaextract
1Putthemarshmallows,butter,chocolate,andwaterinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.
2Putthesaucepanonthestoveoverfairlygentleheattomelt,stirringeverynowandagain.Removefromtheheat.
3Meanwhile,whipthecreamwiththevanillauntilthickandthenfoldintothecoolingchocolatemixtureuntilyouhaveasmooth,cohesivemixture.
4Pour/scrapeinto4glassesorsmalldishes,about¾cupeachincapacity,or6smaller(½cup)ones,andchilluntilyouwanttoeat.Thesoonerthebetter!
Serves4–6
CHOCOLATEPEANUTBUTTERFUDGESUNDAE
I’vesavedthisforlast,andforgoodreason:itistheultimateicecreamsundae.Obviously,ifyou’renotapeanut-eater,itwon’tbeforyou,butforeveryoneelseitisthestuffofdreams.LasttimeImadethissauce,Inearlyhadtomakeanotherbatch,I’deatensomuchbeforeevengettingtheicecreamsoutofthefreezer.
Talkingofwhich,obviouslyyoushouldchoosewhicheverflavorsoficecreamyouwant.Evenifyouarereducedtojustplain-old,sameold-vanilla,youhaveapartyrighthere.
Imadeajarofthisforafriendtotakehomeforhersupperrecently.Assoonasshe’dhaditshesentatextsaying”Bottlethatsauce,makemillions.”Wellmaybe,butuntilthen,here’stherecipe.
Andyoushouldknowthatthisisjustasirresistibleasastorecupboardspecial,ifyoureplacethesyrupandcreamwith¾cupofsweetenedcondensedmilk,whiskingin¼cupofhotwaterfromthekettlebeforepouringtheglossysauceoutofthepan.
¾cupheavycream4ozmilkchocolate,chopped½cupsmoothpeanutbutter(Skippyforpreference)3tablespoonsgoldensyruporlightcornsyrup4scoopstoffeeorcaramelicecream
4scoopschocolateicecream4scoopsvanillaicecream¼cupsaltedpeanuts,roughlychoppedorleftwhole,totaste
1Putallthecream,choppedchocolate,peanutbutter,andgoldensyrupintoasaucepanandputitontheheattomelt,stirringoccasionally.Inabout2minutesyoushouldhaveyoursauceready.
2Getoutfoursundaeglassesandputascoopoftoffeeorcaramelicecreamineach,followedbyoneofchocolateandthenanotherofvanilla.
3Pouroversomechocolatepeanutbutterfudgesauceandsprinklewithsaltedpeanuts.
4Handthemround.
Serves4veryluckypeople
AlthoughIknow,fromsadexperience,thatcomforteatingdoesnotrelyonlengthypreparations,butratherafrenziedassaultonthefridge,comfortfoodcannoteasilyberushed.Afewingredients,throwntogetherinsprightlyfashion,canmakeafabuloussupper,butdoesn’tguaranteetheenvelopingcozinesswearesometimeshungryfor.ButIcan’tignorethegenre;itplaystooimportantapartinlife.
It’snothardtothinkupinstant-eatingideas—warmtoast,spreadwithtoomuchbutterandasprinklingofcinnamonandsugar;afamily-sizedbarofmilkchocolate;icecreamstraightfromthetub;packagedricepudding—butthecomforttheyseemtopromiseiselusive,andonegenerallyendsuphatingoneselfandfeelingsickintothebargain.Iwantcomfortfoodthatreallydoescomfort,thatfeedsmeafteralong,difficultdayandhelpsmefeelgoodaboutliferatherthanmakingmewanttoescapefromit.
This,anyway,istheaim.Butyes,IdoknowthatsomeoftherecipesthatfollowarepreciselyforthesortsoffoodthatIcouldn’targueintoanykindofdietplanorganizedbythehealthyeatingbrigade.Ican’tdefendmydoughnutFrenchtoastfromanutritionalpointofview,certainly,butIknowithastoexist.
Thesearerecipesfortheworldasitis,forusasweare.Ican’talwaysbeworryingabouthowweshouldbelivingoreating.I’mhungrynow.
CHOWDERWITHASIANFLAVORS
Thisistheperfectsupperonthosedayswhenaknifeandforkseemlikejusttoomuchwork.It’sinstantlycomforting,butislivelyenoughtomakeonefeelinvigoratedratherthanstultifiedbyeatingit.Andalthoughtomany,replacingthemilkwithcoconutmilk,dispensingwiththeflourandbutter,theroux,altogether,andtakingtheSoutheastAsianrouteratherthanthetraditionalone,mightseemanabomination,Iloveitsomuchbetterthantheanywaymorelaborious-to-prepareoriginal.
Childrenmaypreferthelimereducedandthechileremoved.Ithinkitisperfectionasitis.
3cupschickenstock/broth(notinstant)1lbbakingpotatoesor2medium-sized,peeledandcutinto¼-inchcubestomake2½cups4ozbabyleeks,slicedinto½-inchlengthstomake1cup4ozbabycorn,cutinto¼-inchslicestomake1¼cups2bayleaves
1teaspoongroundmace114-ozcancoconutmilk1lb4ozskinlesssmokedcodfillets,cutinto1-inchcubes¼cuplimejuice8ozsmallormediumfrozenshrimp1½cupscannedsweetcorn,drained1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped½cupchoppedfreshcilantro
1Bringthestocktoaboilinamedium-sizedpan.Cookthechoppedpotatoes,leeks,andbabycorninthestockwiththebayleavesandmaceforabout10minutesoruntiltender.
2Addthecoconutmilk,thechoppedsmokedfish,andthelimejuice.Bringthepanbacktoaboilandletitsimmerforaminuteorso.
3Tipintheshrimpandsweetcornandonceagainletitcomebacktoaboiltoheatthemthrough.Seasonwiththesaltandthenserve.
4Decorateeachbowlwithsomechoppedchileandpungent,leafycilantro.
Serves4
Serves4
NOODLESOUPFORNEEDYPEOPLE
Ihavetosay,tobeprescriptiveaboutanoodlesoupseemstobeagainsttheethosofwhatyou’reactuallycooking.WhenIneedanoodlesoup,believemeIaminnomoodtostartweighingandmeasuring.Iheatsomebroth,ofsomedescriptionorother,andthrowinavarietyofvegetablesthatareskulkingaboutinthefridgeandthemostsoothingnoodlesIcanfind.Youcanaddotherthings,somechickenstripsor,attheend,somefineragsofrawtunaorsalmon,butIgenerallywantthevegetablybrothandnoodlesbythemselves.Theproteinelement,whilesodesirableinsomanywaysI’msure,isnotwhatI’mafterhere.
Butanyway,Ithrowdownablueprinthere.Don’tgetcaughtupinit,butfollowitifitfeelshelpful.
6ozudonnoodles(dried,fromapackage)3cupschickenorvegetableordashibroth2tablespoonssoysauce
1teaspoonsoftdarkbrownsugar1staranise1teaspoonmincedfreshginger¾cupbeansprouts¾cupsugarsnaps¾cupslicedshiitakemushrooms½cupfinelyslicedbabybokchoy2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantro
1Cookthenoodlesaccordingtothepackageinstructionsandwhiletheirwaterisboiling,fillanearbysaucepanwithstock,soysauce,sugar,staranise,andginger.(Whenthenoodlesaredone,justdrainthemandputhalfineachbowl.)
2Whentheflavoredstockcomestoaboil,addthevegetables.Theyshouldbecookedbefore2minutesareup.
3Pourhalfintoeachbowl,overthecookedanddrainednoodles,andsprinklewithcilantro.
Serves2forsupper
BUTTERNUTSQUASHANDSWEETPOTATOSOUP
EversinceIovercamemyprejudicesagainstbuyingprechoppedfruitandveg,mycookinglifehasgotalotsimpler.Andyoushouldknow(hopeI’mnotsoundingtoodefensivehere)thatItaliangrocersregularlysellpeeledandpreparedvegetablesbaggeduptomaketheircustomers’lifesimpler.
Thesesquashandsweetpotatodicecertainlymakeminesimpler;aquarterofanhour’sbubblingwithsomestockandsomespice,andsweetsuccoristohand.Sometimesyouarenotinthemoodtowait.
2½cupsdicedbutternutsquashandsweetpotato3cupshotchickenorvegetablestock¼teaspoongroundcinnamon
¼teaspoongroundmacegoodgrindingofpepper4teaspoonsbuttermilk
1Putthedicedbutternutsquashandsweetpotatoinasaucepanwiththestockandspices.
2Bringtoaboil,andthensimmerfor15minutesoruntilthevegetablesaretender.
3Pureethesoupinablender.Youwillfindthatbyremovingthecenternozzleonthelidandplacingahandtowelorteatoweloverthetop,youwillnotgetabuildupofpressureandanexplosionofsouponyourwallsoroveryou.
4Pourtheblendedsoupintotwobowls,decoratingeachbowlwithswirlsmadewith2teaspoonsofbuttermilk.
Serves2—or1ingreatneedofsolace
RIB-STICKINGSTIR-FRY
It’sabsolutelytruethatthrowingeverythinginawokcanbeaveryquickwaytogetsupperonthetable,buttherearetimeswhenwhat’swantedissomethingaltogethermoresubstantialthanthevirtuouslyOrientalculinarytraditionsallow.Thereisagoodamountofmeat—eitherturkeyorchicken,Iusebothinterchangeably—andIthrowinacanofcannellinibeansratherthangoingtothe,admittedlynotreallydemanding,lengthsofcookinganddrainingsomenoodlesandthrowingthemin.Curiously,itworks.Butthen,foodthatcanbeeatenoutofabowl,withaspoon,alwaysofferssuccor.
2tablespoonsvegetableoil10ozchickenorturkeybreastfillet,cutinto1½inchx¼inchstrips4cupschoppedstir-fryvegetables(fromapackage)¼cupsoysauce
¼cupChinesecookingwine114-ozcancannellinibeans,drained1tablespoonchoppedfreshcilantroorparsley
1Heattheoilinawok,andoverfairlyhighheataddthechickenorturkeystripsandtossthemabouttocolor.
2Oncethemeathasseared,addthevegetablesandtossaroundagainuntilbeginningtosoften,thenaddthesoysauceandthewine.Thesoywillhelpthemeatstripsbronzebeautifully.
3Oncetheheatisbackupandsizzling,addthebeansandtosseverythingabouttomixbeforetippingontotwoplates.
4Sprinklewiththeherbandservestraightaway.
Serves2
RAPIDRAGU
Muchtomyhusband’shorror,whenIamfeelingfragileandinneedofcozinessandcomfort,myfavoritesupperisabowlofgroundmeatwithsomegratedcheeseontop,eatenbygreedy,gratefulspoonfulsoutofacerealbowl.
Ihavedispensedwithmuchoftheusual,necessarychopping:Iusecubesofpancetta(orcubettidipancetta,asthey’resoldatmylocalsupermarket)andalittlesweetonionconfitfromajar.Thisiseverythingyoucouldhopefor,sweetlysalvingandasundemandingtomakeasitisrewardingtoeat.
2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1cupcubedpancetta1lbgroundlamb114-ozcanchoppedtomatoes½cupwater⅓cupMarsalawine⅓cupgreenlentils¼cupsweetonionconfit½cupgratedredLeicesterorCheddarcheese,optional
1Heattheoilinawide,medium-sizedsaucepan,andfrythepancettauntilitbeginstocrisp.
2Addthelamb,breakingitupwithaforkinthebaconypanasitbrowns.
3Tipinthetomatoes,water,Marsala,lentils,andcaramelizedonionsandbringtoaboil.
4Simmertheragufor20minutes,stirringoccasionally.Sprinklethecheeseontopbeforeserving,ifusing.
Serves4
CHICKEN,MUSHROOM,ANDBACONPIE
Eventhewordpieiscomforting.Butthen,itwouldbehardtodenytheveryreallureofpastry,especiallywhen—ashere—youknowyou’regoingtodunkitingraviedjuicestillitsgorgeouslightnessisdeliciously,soggilyheavy.Iconcede,however,thatmakingandrollingoutyourownpastryisnotnecessarilythespeediestoption,soIusebought,all-butterready-rolledfrozenpuffpastryandfeelfineaboutit.
Imakethepieeveneasier,bybrowningthechickenandmakingthesauceallinonego.Andagold-crusted,welcomingpiefortwoinhalfanhourisnotbadgoing.
3slicesbacon,cutorscissoredinto1-inchstrips1teaspoongarlic-infusedoil2cupscreminimushrooms,slicedinto¼-inchpieces12boneless,skinlesschickenthighs,eachcutinto2-or3-inchpieces2½tablespoonsflour
½teaspoondriedthyme1tablespoonbutter1¼cupshotchickenstock1tablespoonMarsalawineHalfa17.2ozpackage(one9½x9½-inchsheet)thawedallbutterready-rolledfrozenpuffpastry
1Preheattheovento425°F.Frythebaconstripsintheoiluntiltheybegintocrisp,thenaddtheslicedmushroomsandsoftentheminthepanwiththebacon.
2Turnthechickenstripsintheflourandthyme(youcouldtossthemaboutinafreezerbag),andthenmeltthebutterinthepanbeforeaddingtheflourychickenandalltheflourleftinthebag.Stiraroundwiththebaconandmushroomsuntilthechickenbeginstocolor,about25minutes.
3PourinthehotstockandMarsala,stirringtoformasauce,andletthisbubbleawayforabout5minutes.
4Taketwo1¼cuppie-pots(ifyoursaredeeper,don’tworry,therewillsimplybemorespacebetweencontentsandpuffpastrytop)andmakeapastryrim
foreachone–bythisImeananapprox.½-inchstripcurledaroundthetopofeachpot.Dampentheedgeswithalittlewatertomakethepastrystick.
5Cutacirclebiggerthanthetopofeachpie-potforthelid,andthendividethechickenfillingbetweenthetwo.
6Dampentheedgesagainandthenpoponthetopofeachpie,sealingtheedgeswithyourfingersortheunderneathoftheprongsofafork.
7Cookthepiesforabout20minutes,turningthemaroundhalfwaythroughcooking.Oncecooked,theyshouldpuffupmagnificently.
Serves2
CHEDDARCHEESERISOTTO
Thisisthefirstofmyholytrinityofcheese-richcomfortfoods.Thereisjustsomethingaboutmeltedcheese,thatperfectgoo,thatseemstosoothethesoulandbolsterthebody.
ThismightseemoddtoItalians(oneofthereasonsitisnotintheHeyPrestochapter)butitworksbeautifully:ThestarchyriceandthesharpCheddararetheperfectcounterpointforeachother.
Imakethis,too,ondayswhenIneedtoescapetothekitchenandhaveagood,quiet,relaxing,andmindless20minutesstaringintothemiddledistanceandstirring.Iheartilyrecommendit.
1tablespoonbutter1tablespoonvegetableoil2babyleeksor2fatscallions,finelysliced1½cupsrisottorice½cupwhitewine½teaspoonDijonmustard4cupshotvegetablestock1cupchoppedCheddarcheese2tablespoonschoppedchives
1Meltthebutterandoilinamedium-sizedpanandcooktheslicedbabyleeksorscallionsuntilsoftened.
2Addtherisottoriceandkeepstirringforaminuteorso,thenturnuptheheatandaddthewineandmustard,stirringuntilthewineisabsorbed.
3Startladlinginthehotstock,lettingeachladlefulbecomeabsorbedasyoustirbeforeaddingthenextone.
4Stirandladleuntilthericeisaldente,about18minutes,thenaddthecheese,stirringitintothericeuntilitmelts.
5Takethepanstraightofftheheat,stillstirringasyoudo,andthenspoonintowarmeddishes,sprinklingwithsomeofthechoppedchives.
Serves2asamaincourseor4asastarter
MACANDCHEESE
Howcanyouhaveachapteroncomfortfoodwithoutarecipeformacandcheese?ButIknewtherewasafundamentalflaw:Makingarouxandawhitesauce,forthebase,isnoteveryone’sideaofhavingarelaxingtime;Irealizethatmyregularlyself-administeredstirringtreatmentisnottobeprescribedtoeveryone.
This,then,istheshortcutversion:nocheesesauce,butagorgeouslyhugeamountofcheese,boundwitheggandevaporatedmilk.Yum.
8ozmacaroni2cupscoarselychoppedmatureCheddarorredLeicestercheese,oramixtureofboth1cupevaporatedmilk
2eggsgratingoffreshnutmeg
1Preheattheovento425°F.Cookthemacaroniaccordingtothepackageinstructions,drain,andthenputbackintothehotpan.
2Whilethepasta’scooking,putthecheese,evaporatedmilk,eggs,andnutmeginaprocessorandblitztomix.Orgratethecheeseandmixeverythingbyhand.
3Pouroverthemacaroni,stirwell,andseasontotaste.
4Tipintoa10-inch-diameterdish(wideandshallowisbest)andbakeforabout10–15minutesoruntilitisbubblingandblisteringontop.
Serves4
GRILLEDCHEESEANDSLAW
Bygrilledcheese,ofcourse,Imeanagrilledcheesesandwich,andIaddtheslaw,bothbecauseIloveitandbecausethatwayIdon’tfeelsobadaboutmakingthisforsupper.Andthat’swhatworksforme.OtherwiseI’djusthavemysupperandthenthis.
Mindyou,itissogoodthatIcouldneverregretit,howevertightthedressImighthavetowearthenextday.
Themethodisslightlyodd,butit’swhatworksforme.
4slicesrealwhitebread,i.e.,cutfromaloaf2teaspoonsmayonnaise½teaspoonWorcestershiresauce3ozCheddarcheese,thinlysliced1tomato,thinlyslicedpepper2teaspoonsregularoliveoil(notextravirgin)SandwichSlaw,below
1Heataridgedgriddlepanorstovetopgriddle.
2Getoutthebread.MixthemayowiththeWorcestershiresauceandspreadonthe4slices.
3NowdividetheCheddarandtomatobetween2slicesofbread,grindoversomepepper,andtopwiththeother2slices.
4Graspingeachsandwichinonehand,usetheothertodipapastrybrushintheoilandbrushtheoutsideofthesandwichwiththeoil;proceedwiththesecondsandwich.
5Putthesandwichesonthenow-hotgriddleandputaskilletontoptoweightthem,thenaddheavycansofsouporjarsofpicklesor,amusingly,someexerciseweights,andgrillpinneddownlikethisfor2minutesaside.
6Removetotwowaitingplates.Servewithslaw,ifdesired.
Serves2
SANDWICHSLAW
1RedDeliciousapple,coredandchoppedinstriplikeshapes1carrot,cutintomatchsticks2cupsfinelyslicedorshreddednapacabbage2tablespoonsmayonnaise
1tablespoonmangochutney1tablespoonlemonjuice½teaspooncarawayseeds¼teaspoonkoshersaltorpinchoftablesalt
1Putthestripsofappleandcarrotintoalargebowlwiththeshreddedcabbageandtosstomix.
2Inanother,smallbowl,mixthemayo,chutney,lemonjuice,carawayseeds,andsalt.Pourthisoverthesaladinthebigbowlandmixwelltocombineandcoatbeforearrangingontotheplatesofsandwiches.
Serves2
JUMBLEBERRYCRUMBLE
Sinceyouneverknowwhenyoumightbeinurgentneedofacrumble,Imakeupenoughforatleastfourandletitsitsafelyinthedeepfreezeuntilrequired.Sprinkleoveryourfruitofchoiceasitisandcookfromfrozen.Couldscarcelybeanyeasier,couldit?
Asforthefruit,Itakeallchoppingoutoftheequationandgiveitparitywiththecrumbletoppingbyusingfrozenmixedsummerfruits;“jumbleberry”isjustanoldEnglishtermforwhatevermixtureofberrieswereusedinjamsorpuddingsorjellies.
FORTHECRUMBLETOPPING:⅔cupflour½teaspoonbakingpowder4tablespoons(½stick)coldbutter,cutintosmallcubes3tablespoonsDemerarasugar
1Puttheflourandbakingpowderintoabowlandrubinthecubesofbutterwithyourfingersuntilyouhaveamixturelikecoarsesand.Thisissuchasmallamount,it’snotreallyworthgettingouttheheavymachinery.
2Stirinthesugarandthenputintoafreezerbagtofreeze.
3Thismixturewouldmake4jumbleberrycrumblesinthecups(asinthephotototheleft),andabout8ramekins.
TOMAKEONECRUMBLE-IN-A-CUP(approx.1¼-cupcapacity):¾cupfrozensummerfruits1teaspooncornstarch2teaspoonsvanillasugarorgranulatedsugarandadropofvanilla½cupfrozencrumbletopping
TOMAKETHECRUMBLEINARAMEKIN:generous¼cupfrozensummerfruits½teaspooncornstarch1½teaspoonsvanillasugarorgranulatedsugarandadropofvanilla3tablespoonsfrozencrumbletopping
1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthesummerfruitsineitheracuporaramekin
andsprinkleoverthecornstarchandsugar.Stiraroundalittle.
2Sprinkleoverthefrozencrumbletoppingandbakethecupfor20minutesandtheramekinfor15minutes.
Serves1
ROLY-POLYPUDDING
Ifeelbetterjustcontemplatingthis.Yougetthecomfortofasyruppuddingusuallysteamedformany,manyhoursin30minutes.Andyoudopracticallynothingtomakeit:Rollouthalfa13ozpackageofgoodstore-boughtpastry,oozegoldensyrupoverit,rollituplikeajellyroll,andtossitinadish,pouringonsomemilkbeforeputtingitintheoven.
Eatthiswitheithercreamoricecream:Whatever,itistheperfectSundaylunchdessert,thoughthereisagoodcaseforitanydayoftheweek.
6ozstore-boughtpiecrust¾cupgoldensyruporlightcornsyrup½cupwholemilk
1Preheattheovento400°F.Rolloutthepastrytoasizeapproximately7inchesx13inches.
2Pourthegoldensyrupontothepastrywitha¾-inchmarginaroundtheedge.
3Withabutteredovalgratindish(11incheslong)attheready,rollupthepastryfromtheshortsideintoafatsausage.
4Transfertothedish,puttingtheseamunderneath,andpourhalfofthemilkdownonesideoftheroly-polyandhalfdowntheotherside.
5Bakefor30minutes.
Serves4or1undercertainconditions
BUTTERFLYCAKES
ThesewerethefirstcakesIevermadeasachild—littlecupcakeswithadiscgougedoutoftheirpointy(ornot,andseeevidencetotheleft)tops,cutintwo,andthetwopiecesofcaketopsetinablobofbuttercreamlikeapairofbutterflywings.Iwasn’tmuchgoodatmakingthemlooklikebutterfliesthen,andIseeIhaven’timprovedany.Theonesherearemorebunnybunsthanbutterflycakes,buttheystillmakemefeelstrangelycomforted.Isay“strangely,”asthereisnothingcomfortingaboutthestateofchildhood.Butthen,thefalsesolacegainedfromlyingtoyourselfaboutthepastisprobablyanecessaryevil.
ButwhatamItalkingabout?Justmakethecakes.They’reveryeasy.Iwhipcreamwithfoodcoloringratherthanmakingbuttercream,andtakegreatcomfortintheirprettypastelness.
½cup(1stick)plus1tablespoonsoftbutter½cupplus1tablespoonsugar2eggs¾cupflour1teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1tablespoonmilk1cupheavycreamfoodcoloringofyourchoice
1Preheattheovento400°Fandlinea12-cupmuffinpanwithpaperliners.
2Creamthebutterandsugareitherinabowlbyhandorwithanelectricmixer.
3Oncelightandfluffy,addtheeggsoneatatimewithalittleoftheflour,beatingasyougo.
4Foldintherestoftheflour,thebakingpowderandbakingsoda,andthevanilla,andfinallythemilk.
5Spoonthebatterintothepaperliners,dividingequally.
6Putintheovenandbakefor15–20minutesoruntilthecupcakesarecookedandgoldenontop.Takethecupcakesintheirpaperlinersoutofthepanandletcoolonawirerack.
7Oncethey’recool,cutoffthemoundedpeak(ifyourcakeshaveobliged),cuttingitinhalftomakethebutterflywings.Digdownalittlewithyourknife.Thiswillalsoleaveasmallholetoputthecreamtoholdthewings.Ifyourcakeshaven’tpeakedmuch,youwilljusthavetocutoutaslightlywidercircleafterthetop,digginginasyoudoso.Asyoucanseefromthepictures,thisworksjustaswell.
8Whipthecreamuntilthick,coloringwithfoodcoloringifyouwish,anddollopabout2teaspoonfulsofcreamontopofeachcake.
9Stickonyourbutterflywings,usingthecreamastheglue.
Makes12
DOUGHNUTFRENCHTOAST
Myweaknessesaremainlysavory—thinksaltandpotatochipsorcheeseandcrackers—buttherearetimeswhenonlyadoughnutwilldo.Thiscangetdesperatelateatnightwhentheshopsareshut,andeveniftheyweren’t,noneofthemsellthekindofdoughnutsIdreamof.Thisismywayofassuagingmyappetite,appeasingmyneed,or,perhapsmoreaccurately,feedingmyaddiction.Hotchocolateonthesideisalwaysworthconsidering,butjust—just!—byitselfthisissublimesuccor.
However,youcan,ifyoulike,turnthisintoadinnerpartydoughnut-allusivedessertbywhizzingup5ozhulledstrawberries,4tablespoonspowderedsugar,andaspritzoflemonjuiceintheblendertomakeasaucetopourorpuddleover.
2eggs¼cupwholemilk4teaspoonsvanillaextract4slicesfromasmallwhitebreadloafor2slicesfromalargewhiteloaf—eachlargeslicecutinhalf
2tablespoonsbutterplusadropofflavorlessvegetableoilforfrying¼cupsugar
1Beattheeggswiththemilkandvanillainawideshallowbowl.
2Soakthebreadhalvesintheeggymixturefor5minutesaside.
3Heatthebutterandoilinaskillet,andfrytheegg-soakedbreaduntilgoldenandscorchedinpartsonbothsides.
4Putthesugarontoaplateandthendredgethecookedbreaduntilcoatedlikeasugareddoughnut.
Serves2
TOTALLYCHOCOLATECHOCOLATECHIPCOOKIES
Alongwithchocolate,thereismuchcomforttobegleanedfromreadingcookbooks.Thisrecipecombinestwolovesbybeingchocolatytothepointofmadnessandhavingrevealeditselftomeafteracozy,snuggled-downreadofElinorKlivans’gloriousBigFatCookies.WhatIdoismakeupthefullbatchofthese(hardtodivideitreally,sinceitcontainsonlyoneegg)andformall12moundedcookies,butbakeonlyhalfandfreezetheotherhalf.Ifreezetheminalittleshallowpanandoncethey’rehard,Ithrowtheminafreezerbag,sealit,andstashitbackinthefreezertobakethemunthawedatalaterdate.Thatway,I’vegot6chocolatecookiestokeepmyselfandmyfamilyhappywithoutanytimeoreffort.
ThisiswhatIcallaninvestment.Andit’sworthit—thesearethechocolatiestcookiesyouwillevercomeacross.
4ozsemisweetchocolate1cupflour¼cupunsweetenedcocoa,sifted1teaspoonbakingsoda½teaspoonsalt½cup(1stick)softbutter½cuplightbrownsugar¼cupgranulatedsugar1teaspoonpurevanillaextract1egg,coldfromthefridge2cupssemisweetchocolatemorselsordarkchocolatechips(2bags)
1Preheattheovento325°F.Meltthe4ozofchocolate.
2Measuretheflour,cocoa,bakingsoda,andsaltintoabowl.
3Creamthebutterandtwosugarsinanotherbowl.Iusemyfreestandingmixer,itselfasourceofcomforttome.Addthemeltedchocolateandmixtogether.
4Beatinthevanillaextractandcoldegg,andthenmixinthedryingredients.Finallystirinthechocolatechips.
5Scoopout¼cup–sizedmounds—anicecreamscoopandapaletteknifearethebesttoolsforthejob—andplaceonalinedbakingsheetabout2½inchesapart.Donotflattenthem.
6Bakefor18minutes,testingwithacaketestertomakesuretheycomeoutsemi-cleanandnotwetwithcakebatter.Ifyoupierceachocolatechip,tryagain.
7Leavetocoolonthebakingsheetfor4–5minutes,thentransferthemtoacoolingracktohardenastheycool.
Makes12
Sometimesyouhavepeopleoverforsupper,sometimesyouhaveaparty.Andthetroubleis,justbecauseyou’veplannedongivingthisparty,doesn’tmeanyouhavethetimetoprepareforit.Countyourselflucky.IknowthatIhaveperhapsanover-developedantipathytotheformalandfancy,butIdothinkthatnothavingverymuchtimetodoeverythingdoesmeanyouarelesslikelytogooverthetopandmorelikelytothrowapartythatyouandyourguestswillenjoymore.
Theproblemwiththoseincrediblydetailed,perfectionist-pleasingpartyplansisthattheycanreducethegueststomerecogsinthemachine.You’renotworriedaboutwhetherthey’rehavingagoodtime,justwhethereverything’sgoingaccordingtoplan.Soundfamiliar?
Ihavenothingagainstgettingoutthebestchinaandmakingthetablelookbeautiful,thoughI’mratheroftheopinionthatanytablegroaningwithfoodisbeautiful,crockerybedamned.Andasforapartythatinvolvesstandingupandpickingatthingsratherthansittingdownandfeastingonthem,thenIagreealleffortmustbemade.Butthisdoesn’tmeanyouhavetotaketwodaysoffworktomaketheplacelookthepart.I’mallforeasy,simpletouches.Idrapeallavailablesurfaces—bookshelves,mantelpieces,sidetables—withgrapesandassortedfruits,aimingonthewholetoevokethelusciousbounteousnessofaRomanbacchanalia;Iwantthegueststobesurroundedbyfruitfulplenty,asifwelcomingsumptuousnesswerejustspillingoutofeverycorner.
Flowers,Ithink,shouldbepresentbutmodest:Don’tgoinforflashy,expensivedisplaysbutratherchooseapanoplyofsmallerflowersthatwillfitinconcomitantlysmallervases.AndalthoughIsayvases,Imeanlittlebottles,canisters,beakers,andanyreceptaclethatinspires.Acaseinpoint:IliketousethosesmallglasspotsthatfancyFrenchyogurtscomein;and,eccentricasitsounds,emptycans—ofItaliantomatoes,olives,chestnuts,goldensyrup,exoticforeigningredients,especiallywhenthewriting’sinadifferentscript—makefabulousvases,particularlyinprofusion.AndIamforeverbuyingoddlittlejarsandcontainersfromeBaytodotabouttheplacewithasprigortwoofsomethingbeautiful.Remember,itdoesn’thavetobeflowers:Thinkparsley,rosemary,mint,andanyotherfoliageyoucangetyourhandson.Butwhateveryouuse,justbearinmindthatwhatworksmostistohaveasmanylittlepotsaspossiblescatteredaboutallovertheplace.Iratherlikegoingaboutthehousestrewingitwithfruitsandflowersandanythingbeauteous.Itgetsmeinapartymood.
withfruitsandflowersandanythingbeauteous.Itgetsmeinapartymood.Youneedtobepractical,too,sorememberplatesfordetritus,ashtrays—
sorrytooffendtheanti-tobaccolobby—stacksofnapkins(paperisfine).Mymothercouldneverresistfingerbowlseither,andthereissomethingtobesaidforfillingsmalldisheswithwarmwaterandasliceoflemon,anddropofrosewatertooifyou’reexoticallyinclined,butonthewholepeopletendnottousethemthesedayssoyourthoughtfulnessmaybewastedandyoumaybecastingpearlsbeforeswine,ifthat’snottoorudeawaytotalkaboutyourfriends.
KingsleyAmisoncesaidthatthethreemostdepressingwordsintheEnglishlanguagewere“RedorWhite?”andIthinkofthiseverytimeIthrowaparty.Itwaswhiskeyhewantedtodrink,butIdon’tthinkyouneedtosupplyspirits;justaddsomeotherdrinkthatseemstostrikeapartynote.Ifit’sarelativelyrestrainedassembly,intermsofnumber,thisiswhatIliketoget:lotsofdryfizzywineandmakesureitisreallyproperlychilledandthenlayoutadisplayofflavoredsyrups,thesortbarmenkeepbehindtheirbar,andyoucanpoureveryonetheirwineandletthemexperimentwiththesyrupoftheirchoice.MyMoninsyrups(bought,conveniently,onlinealongwithanyrecherchéliqueurIeverneed)arebeginningtolooklikesomeTechnicolorarmyadvancingacrossmykitchen;favorites(withmyfriends)tosplashintothesparklingwineareRose,Watermelon,Pomegranate,andPassionFruit.IbringoutadifferentrangeforChristmasparties(thinkCranberry,WinterBerry,ToffeeNut,andGingerbread,andseehereandhere)and,curiousIknow,Ilovetheminbeer.Speakingofwhich,ifyou’reservingbeeraswellatyourparty,whichIthinkyoushouldifit’ssummerorifdancingisinvolved,youmustmakesureit’ssocoldithurts.
Asforthefood,Ineverthinkyoushouldmakemassesofdifferentthings.Ithinkachoiceofthree,butthosethreeinabundance.Thoughwhateverbitsandpiecesyoudoofferpeopletoeat,Ithinkit’salwaysworthbakingtraysofcocktailsausagesinaddition.IwouldfeelIweren’tgivingaproperpartywithoutsausages.Puttingsausagesintheovenandthentakingthemoutagainscarcelycountsasworkeither.Ifyouwanttomakethingseasieronyourselfstill,usethrowawayaluminumfoilroastingpans.Ihavenothingagainstdottingtheroomwithboughtsnackythings,either.Youdon’thavetobeembarrassedaboutservingthoserathercompellingJapanesericecrackerssolongasyou’reprovidingrealfood,too.Myabsolutefavoritearethewasabi-coatedpeasyoucansometimesfindinspecialtyshops,buttheydoblowyourheadoff,soperhapsthey’renotforeveryone.
Sit-downdinnerswhenyouarefilledwiththedesiretodosomethingspecial
Sit-downdinnerswhenyouarefilledwiththedesiretodosomethingspecialbuthaven’tgotthetimetobackitupneedn’tposeaproblem.Again,Ithinkthatanythingthatstopsyouboningpartridgesorspinningsugarcanonlybeagoodthing.Ikeepthefoodsimple,butthemoodsumptuous.Myideaofrazzledazzleisnotthatyouareneed-ilytryingtoimpresseveryone,butratherthatyouareconjuringupaneveningthatwowswiththeleastamountofworkpossible.
Afinalnoteonthehardestpartofanyevensemi-formaldinner,theplacement.Ihate,hate,hatedrawingupseatingplans.Ifyoudoone,thenpeopleareanxiousabouttheirpositioninthepeckingorderandhowtheyfeelitisreflectedintheseatyou’veallocatedthem;ifyoudon’t,theyallhoveraboutnervously,notsittingdownorknowingwhattodo,andthenyouareobligedtoproduceinstantplacementoutofyourhead.Soit’sadisastereitherway.
Thisismywaythroughitall:InumbereachplaceandthenIfillahatwithanotherpileofnumbers(eitherbuybooksofraffleticketsormakeyourown)andgetpeopletotakeanumberontheirwayin.Thiswaytheyknowwheretositbutdon’tfeelsensitiveabouttheirposition.Ifyouliketokeepthingsgirl-boy-girl-boy—whichneverworriesme,Imustsay—thenjustdo,asitwere,apinksetofnumbersandabluesetofnumbersandtwohatsorreceptaclesbythedoor.Thereneedstobeasystem,evenifthatsystemisrandom.Suchislife.
GREENAPPLEMARTINI
Thisisacocktailwithakickandaddictivelydelicious.Ihavetosayitisenormouslyusefulasaquickshotofpartyspiritbeforeyougotosomeoneelse’sparty.Ialwaysfeelbetterthenextday,havingastiffdrinkbeforeandwater(sparklingratherthanstillbut,hey,let’slivealittle)duringaparty.
Althoughitisasourapplemartini,athomeIrefertoitonlyasKryptonite.Theluridgreenisquitesomething.
I’vegivenquantitiesperglasssimplybecauseit’sbettermadeupglassbyglassandyoucanhandthemaroundtoyourguestsastheyrequestthem.Iwouldn’twanttomaketheseforahugeroomfulofpeople,buttheyareperfectasawayofhelpingthosewho’vehotfootedfromtheofficeandarewearywiththeworkingdayunwindatthebeginningofadinnerparty.Ifyouwanthugepitcherstopassaround,eithergofortheWhiteLadyhereorthegorgeouslyredGingerPombelow.
1shotvodkaorgin1shotsourappleliqueur½shotMoninGreenApplesyrupsliceofGrannySmithappletogarnish
1Inamartiniglass,combinethevodka/ginoverlotsofice,andaddtheliqueurandsyrup.
2Sliceasegmentofapple,removinganycore.Cutanickinthebottomoftheslicehorizontally,andslipitontotheedgeoftheglass.
Serves1—andhow!
GINGERPOM
Thisdrinkstartedoffasmynonalcoholicalternativeforteetotalers(thoughobviouslywithouttheliqueur)andIstilldothat.ButthenIcameacrosssomepomegranateliqueurandIknewithadaplacehere.Byallmeanshavetwopitchers,onewiththeboozyversion,onewithjustjuiceandgingerale,butmakesureyouandotherpeoplecaneasilydistinguishbetweenthetwobyputting,say,limeslicesinthealcohol-freejug.Andineithercase,makesurethisisgoodandcold.
1partPamapomegranateliqueur2partspomegranatejuice2partsgingerale
WhatcanIsay?Mixtheseingredientstogetherandpouroverice.
POTATOCAKESWITHSMOKEDSALMON
I’vedonemanyversionsofpotatopancakesinmylife,butthishasgottobetheeasiest.IthinkIshockedmyselfbymakingitwithinstantpotatoflakes,butthere’salwaysgottobeafirsttime.Andtheytastewonderful,sothereisnoneedtofeelbad.Butifhavinganingredientlikethisinyourcupboardmakesyoufeeltootrailer-trashforwords,thengotosomeexpensivehealth-foodmarketandbuyapacketoforganicpotatoflakesinstead.Idounderstand.
Ihavetotellyouthatifyoumakethesewith1cuppotatoflakesandnoflourorbakingpowder,youwillhavethemoststodgilyfabuloussquatlittlecakestoeatforbreakfast.Thesearemightygoodforsoakingupexcess,thoughdelicious,fatsandjuices,althoughamoreelegantversionisrequiredhere.Servethematcocktailpartiesorlayoutthecomponentparts,addingalittlebowlofcrèmefraîcheorsourcreamonthetableforanappetizer.
3eggs½cupwholemilk2scallions,finelysliced2tablespoonsoliveoil¾cupinstantpotatoflakes¼cupflour½teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonlemonjuice12ozsmokedsalmonsmallbunchoffreshdill
1Inabatterbowlorsimilarcontainer,whisktheeggs,milk,finelyslicedscallions,andoliveoiltogether.
2Stirinthepotatoflakes,flour,bakingpowder,andthenfinallythelemonjuice.
3Heataflatgriddleanddroptablespoon-sizeddollopsofthemixtureontothehotgriddle.
4Cookforabout30secondsasideoruntilgoldenbrownandfirmenoughattheedgestoflip.
5Onceyouhavemadethepancakesandthey’vecooledalittle,tearofftiny
stripsofsmokedsalmonandarrangethesmallslicesoneachpancake.
6Decorateeachsalmon-toppedpancakewithatinyfeatherofdill.
Makes30
THEINSTANTCANAPÉ—QUICKCROSTINIWITHAVOCADO
ANDGREENPEAHUMMUS
IloveavocadosandI’vealreadyconfessedmyfaiblesseforprocessedpeas,soitstandstoreasonthatonedayIwasgoingtotrythemtogether.Itdoesn’tsoundaltogethermodesttosaythis,butitisatriumph.Icannottellyouhowquicklythesedisappear.
Notonlyistheavocadoandgreenpeahummusabreezetomake,butjusttoaddtoyourease,Isuggestyouuseapackageofpumpernickelroundsasthecrostinibase.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofthem,justbuyaslenderFrenchbaguetteorficelleandsliceandsoonashere.Buttheparty-pumpernickelshouldbeyourfirstchoice.
Byallmeanusethegreen-greenhummusasadipifyouwant,thoughyou’llneedlots(addaspoonfulortwoofcreamcheesewhenmixingtoo)andservesurroundedwithsugarsnappeas,slicedsweetpeppers,andothercruditésofyourchoice.
Itshouldgowithoutsayingthatyoucanreplacethecannedpeaswithfrozenpeas—orindeedfresh—whichyoucook,puree,andcoolbeforemixingwiththeavocado.Lovelybutnotveryexpress.
1ripeavocado2tablespoonslimejuice½clovegarlic,minced24.9-ozcanssweetgreenpeas,drained1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt30smallpumpernickelroundsor8regularpumpernickelslices,eachcutinto4littlesquares
1Spoonoutthefleshoftheavocadoandputitinafoodprocessor;addthelimejuiceandthegarlic.
2AddthedrainedpeasandsaltandthenprocessuntilyouhaveaKermit-coloredpuree.
3Spreadthepumpernickelroundssoftlywiththeavocadoandpeamixtureandarrangeonalargeplatterforserving.
Makes30
TUNAANDCRABWRAPS
Ihaveneverreallythoughtofmyselfasapersonwhocouldwrap,fold,orfiddleaboutwithfoodoreverfeltthatwayinclined.Butyouknow,whenyougetintoit,it’sreallyquiteOK—actually,morethanOK.Thesewrapsarecuriouslyrelaxingtoassembleandeveryoneisalwaysbowledoverbythem.They’reaverygoodwayofinjectingalittlezingintotheproceedingswithouthavingtoslaveforhoursoverahotstove.
IhaveaddedtheoptionofthecrabwrapsasIdounderstandnoteveryoneishappyworkingwithoreveneatingrawtuna.Butpleasedotrythoseones,too:Theyareactuallyaveryunspookyexperience.Justbesuretoaskafishdealerforsashimi-gradetunaandbuyitthedayyouwanttoeatit.
ForboththerecipesbelowI’vegiventhebasicunitofwrap;that’stosay,amountsaresufficienttofillonetortilla,whichinturnwillyield3piecesoncerolledandcut.
FORTHETUNAWRAPS:1teaspoonmayonnaise½teaspoonwasabipaste1or2dropssesameoil1softflourtortilla½carrot,peeledandcutintomatchstickstogive½cup¼cucumber,halvedlengthways,deseededandcutintomatchstickstogive½cup3oztuna-slicedinto -inchx¾-inchrectangles
1Whisktogetherthemayonnaise,wasabi,andsesameoilinasmallbowl,andpaintthetortillaononesidewiththismixture.
2Arrangearowofcarrotshorizontally¾inch–1¼inchesupfromthebottomofthetortillayouhaveinfrontofyou.
3Thenarrangethecucumberontopofthecarrotinthesameway,orasbestyoucan,asitmayslipdownalittle.
4Finally,topwiththeslicesoftuna,alsolayingthemhorizontallyasthismakesiteasytowrapup.
5Rollupthewrapastightlyasyoucan,startingfromthebottom.YouwanttoendupwithafatCubancigar.
6Cutacrosstherolledwrapdiagonallytomake3pieces.
FORTHECRABANDAVOCADOWRAPS:½cupwhitecrabmeat1teaspoonmayonnaise½teaspoonwasabipaste1or2dropssesameoil1softflourtortilla½avocado¼cupfinelyshreddediceberglettucesqueezeoflemonjuice
1Putthecrabmeatintoabowlandaddthemayonnaise,wasabipaste,andoilandstirtomix.
2Laythetortillainfrontofyouandputthecrabmeatinalinehorizontallyabout1inchupfromthebottomofthewrap.
3Taketheavocadohalfstillwithskinandscoopoutthefleshin½-teaspoonfulcurls,layingtheseontopofthelineofcrabmeat.
4Sprinkleoverthelettuceinaneatlinealso,andthenspritzwiththelemonjuice.
5Rolluptightlyfromthebottomtoformafatcigarandthensliceonanangleintothree.
Thetworecipescombinedmake6pieces
JUICYBEEFSKEWERSWITHHORSERADISHDIP
Thisisanotherrecipethatyoucanbringintoplayassomethingtoeatforpeoplewhoarestandingupmillingaround,orseatedatatableasafirstcourse.
Ifindfreshhorseradishincrediblyeasytocomebythesedays,butifyoudon’t,usesomehothorseradishsauceorcreamfromajar.
Ifyouwanttoservelambskewersalongside,thenusecubedleg,replacethehorseradishinthemarinadewithateaspooneachofgroundcuminandgroundcoriander,andmakeadipbymixinggoodstore-boughthummuswithGreek-styleplainyogurtanddrizzlethetopwithalittleoliveoilbeforescatteringwithsomepomegranateseeds.
1lbbeefrump¼cupoliveoil3tablespoonsfreshlygratedhorseradishorhothorseradishsauce2tablespoonsrosemaryneedlesor1teaspoondriedplusabunchofrosemaryfordecoration,optional1½tablespoonsgood-qualityredwinevinegar(otherwiseusebalsamicvinegar)2tablespoonsWorcestershiresauce2tablespoonsport
1cupcrèmefraîcheorsourcream½teaspoonDijonmustard¼teaspoonkoshersaltorcoarse-grindtablesalt¼cupchoppedchives
1Cutthebeefinto1-inchcubes,andputintoafreezerbagwiththeoliveoil,1tablespoongratedfreshhorseradishorhorseradishsauce,rosemary,vinegar,Worcestershiresauce,andport.Setasideforatleast20minutes,butpreferablyovernight,inthefridge.
2Letthemeatcometoroomtemperature,andsoakabout10bambooskewersinwateratthesametime.
3Makethedipbybeatingtogetherthecrèmefraîcheorsourcreamandtheremaining2tablespoonsoffreshlygratedhorseradishorhothorseradishsaucewiththemustardandsalt.Stirinthechives,leavingsomechivestosprinkleoverthetop.
4Heatagrillorgriddle,thenthreadthreeorfourpiecesofmeatontoeachskewerandslapontheheat,turningafter2minutes.Cookforanother2
minutesontheothersideandthenremovetoaplate,strewnwithsomesprigsofrosemaryifdesired.Donotservewhilegrill-hot.
Makesapproximately10skewers
RED-LEAF,FIG,ANDSERRANOHAMSALAD
Thissaladtakesmereminutestomake,andyetissoenduringlybeautiful.Idon’toverstatethecase;thereissomethingpositivelypainterlyaboutthedelicateheapingofdarkredleaves,red-belliedfigs,anddeeppinkham.IlovethesharpnessofManchego,droppedinfeatheryshavingsallamongstthis,butdon’tpanicifthecheeseeludesyou(thoughmysupermarketdoesstockit).JustusesomeParmesanorpecorinoinstead.
1headradicchioorradicchiorosso8cupsbabyrubychardoracoupleofbagsofsaladwithred-tonedtenderleaves2teaspoonssherryvinegar2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilpinchofsalt
8freshfigs,quartered10ozSerranohamslices,cutverythinly2ozManchegocheese,shavedintoslices
1Teartheheadofradicchiointomanageablepieces,andtosstogetherwiththebabysaladleaves.
2Whisktogetherthevinegar,oil,andsaltinasmallbowlandthendresstheleaves.
3Arrangethefigsandhamasartisticallyasyoucanmusteroverthesaladandthen,withapotatopeeler,shavethecheeseover,lettingitfalllightlywhereitwill.
Serves8
SCALLOPS-ON-THE-SHELL
Ican’tquitebelievehowsimplebuthowluscioustheseare.Iprefertogetmyscallopsfromthefishmarketforthis,whichisjustaswellsinceIdon’tthinkIcouldevergetasupermarkettosupplymewithshells.
Youdon’tneedtotakethecoralsoff,butIliketoturnthisintotwomealsandfryupthecoralsthenextdaywithsomebutterandgarlicoilandeatthemsquishedontochunkybreadortoast,spritzedwithlemonjuice,carpetedwithparsley.
Thesearereallyastarter,butIcertainlywouldn’tmindknockingacoupleofshells’worthbackforaspecialsupperanydayoftheweek.
6scallopshells18seascallopswiththeirroesorcoralsremoved,orifthescallopsareverysmall,get242cupsfreshbreadcrumbs6teaspoonsbutter1lime,cutforsqueezing1½teaspoonsgarlicoilsaltandpeppertotaste
1Preheatyourovento475°F.(Youreallyneedaveryhotoven.)Rinseanddrythescallopshellsandarrangethemonabakingsheet.
2Putthescallopsintoabowlandsprinkleoverthebreadcrumbs.Tossthemaroundtogeteachonewellcoatedwithcrumbs.
3Put3breadedscallopsintoeachshell,andthensprinkleoveranyleftoverbreadcrumbsthatremaininthebottomofthebowl.
4Thenaddateaspoonofbutterontopofeachscallop-filledshell,asquirtoflimejuice,¼teaspoonofgarlicoil,andsaltandpepper.
5Putthescallopsintheovenforabout15–20minutes;youreallywantthebreadcrumbstobecrispyandthebutterturningblackaroundtheedgesoftheshell.
Serves6
DUCKBREASTSWITHPOMEGRANATEANDMINT
Thisismyideaofperfectdinner-partyfood:It’seasytomake,notcomplicatedtoserve,andlooks—andtastes—exquisite.
Feelfreetobroil,pangriddle,orgrillyourduckratherthansearitonthestove,andthenroastit,butIjustfindImaketheairtoosmokywhenit’sonthestove.
Iadviseaskingafriendtocomeandhelpyouslicethemeat.Obviously,it’snotexactlyhardworkcarvingaduckbreast,butsothatthefirstslicesaren’tcoldbythetimethelastonesgoontheservingplatter,itmakessensetospeeduptheprocess.Thisisnotacrucialconsideration:Itdoesn’tactuallymatterwhattemperaturethesejeweledsliversofmeatare.
4duckbreasts8cupsarugulaorwatercressorsaladchardoramixture1pomegranate1smallbunchfreshmint
1Preheattheovento425°F.
2Heataflameproof,ovenproofpanonthestoveandthenseartheduckbreasts,skinsidedown,foraminuteorsooverhighheat.
3Turntheduckbreastsoverandthenplaceintheovenforabout15minutes.
4Removetheduckbreastsfromtheovenandletthemsitonacarvingboardwhileyougetorganized.Ifyouwanttoholdthematthisstage,takethemoutoftheovenatabout13minutesanddouble-wrapinaluminumfoil,thenletthemsittillyouneedthem.
5Lineameatplateorflattishplatterwiththesaladleaves.
6Sliceeachduckbreastverythinlyonthediagonalandlayonthesalad-lined
dish,pouringoveranymeatjuicesasyougo.
7Halvethepomegranate,andthenbashouttheseedsfromonehalftodecoratetheduckslices.Squeezesomeofthejuice—justbyhand—fromtheotherhalfovertheduckaswell.
8Tearoffahandfulofmintleavesandthenfinelychopthem,scatteringovertheduck.
Serves8
GRIDDLEDVENISONWITHPINKGINAPPLESAUCEAND
ROASTPENCILLEEKS
Thereisacertainmellowelegancetothisdinner,despitethescantdemandsitplacesonyou,thecook.Iamhappytocooktheseinagriddlepanratherthanroastthevenison,sincetheleannessofthemeatmeansyoudon’tgetmuchsmoke,butifyou’rehappierstashingitintheoven,bemyguest.
Iliketoservethiswithsomepickledredcabbagealongside;itspiquancyistheperfectcounterfoiltothesweetdenseflesh.Idon’twantanythingelse,notifIwanttomakeseriousheadwayintoanyofthedessertsbelow.Nevertheless,consideragoodlazysidedish;somereallygood-qualityplainpotatochipswarmedintheovenisthekindofaccompanimentnoone,howevercarb-fearing,canmanagetoresist.
1½lbsvenisonloin½cupgin¼cupoliveoil2teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce2teaspoonsblackpeppercorns1onion,quartered2staranise2bruisedclovesgarlic
1Putthevenisonintoalargefreezerbagandaddtheremainingingredients.Leaveoutforatleast20minutes,orifyoucanaffordthetimeupto2hours,orleaveovernightinthefridge.
2Whenyouarereadytocookthemeat,heatalargegriddlepanuntilalmostsmokinghot.
3Takethevenisonoutofthemarinade,shakingwell,thenslapdownontothehotgriddleandcookforabout15minutes,turningfrequentlytogainevenscorchmarks.Whenthevenisonisready,removetoacarvingboardtorest,looselytentedwithfoil,beforeslicingthinly.
PINKGINAPPLESAUCE
Don’tjustbuyajarofapplesauce;it’sthisthatmakesthevenisonspecial.Ifyouownafoodmill(andtheyarenotexpensivetobuy),it’sveryeasytomake.
5scallions,finelysliced,whitepartonly2tablespoonsbuttersprinklingofsalt3RedDeliciousapples2tablespoonsginplus1teaspoonjuiceofalemon1longredchile,leftwhole
1Inawidesaucepanwithalid,softenthewhiteshredsofscallioninthebutter,addingalittlesalttopreventitfromscorching.
2Cuttheapplesinhalf,andtheneachhalfintoquarters,and(withoutevenbotheringtocore)addthemtothepanwiththescallions.Pourinthe2tablespoonsgin,lemonjuice,andwholechile,givingeverythingagoodstir.
3Coverthepanandcookovermediumheatuntiltheapplesaresoft;thisshouldtakenomorethan20minutes.
4Takeoutthechilepepper,andthenworkthesaucethroughafoodmillorsieve,theskinsfromtheapplescoloringthesauceablushingduskypink.Stirin1teaspoonofginandseasontotaste.
5Servethepinkginapplesaucewiththevenisoneitherinaseparatebowloratonesideoftheplateofvenison.
Serves6
ROASTPENCILLEEKS
IlovethisasavegetableaccompanimentbutIshouldtellyouitalsoworksverywell,atroomtemperature,withsomedressingoverit,asastarter.Ifyoucan’tfindthebabyleeks—thoughthereseemstoanalarmingproliferationofbabyvegetablesthesedays—thensimplysubstitutesomefatscallions.
12ozminiatureleeks3tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1teaspoonkoshersaltjuiceof½lemon
1Preheattheovento425°F.
2Laytheleeksinalarge,shallowbakingdishorroastingpan,addtheoilandsalt,thenrolltheleeksabouttocoatwell.
3Cookintheblisteringovenforabout15minutes,bywhichtimetheyshouldbebronzedinparts.
4Decanttoaservingdish,andspritzwithlemonjuice.
Serves6
TARTEFINEAUXPOMMES
Thisisthechicversionofmylumpy-bumpygalettehere.Inormallyfindsomethingfascisticallythreateningaboutsymmetry,butthelined-uporderlinessofthisistoobeautifultoabhor.Plus,ittastesfantasticandiseasy-peasytomake.Whatmoredoyouwant?
2largeGrannySmithapples(or3smallerones)juiceof1lemonOnehalf(1sheet)ofa17.2-ozpackageall-butterstoreboughtpuffpastry,measuring9½x9½inches
2tablespoonssugar1tablespoonbuttercrèmefraîcheforserving,ifwished
1Preheattheovento425°F.
2Coretheapples,andcuttheminhalf.Pourthelemonjuiceintoawideshallowdishandfillitwithsomecoldwater.Immersetheapplehalvesinthelemonywater;thiswillstopthemturningbrown.
3Laythesheetofpuffpastryontoalargebakingsheet,andeitherusingthebackofalargecarvingknifeorasteelrulermarka½-inchborderallthewayaroundtheedgeoftherectangle.Youneedtoscorethelinesonthepastryratherthancuttingallthewaythroughit.Thiswillallowaframetoriseabovetheapplefilling.
4Pattheapplesdryandcuteachhalfintoquarters,thensliceeachquarterasthinlyasyoupossiblycan:Thinksegmentwafers.
5Sprinkle1tablespoonofsugaroverthebase.Workingfromtheinsideedge,placetheappleslicescloselyoverlappingwithintheborderoftheframe.Createneatlinesofappleslicesuntilthepastryiscovered.
6Heatthebutterwiththeremainingtablespoonofsugarinasmallpan,andlet
bothbubbleforafewminutesuntilalightcaramelcolorappears.Dribblethissyrupovertheapplesandputthetartintheoven.
7Cookfor20–25minutes,bywhichtimeapuffpastryborderwillhaverisenaroundtheapplesandthefruitwillbesoftandslightlycolored.Cutintosquaresorslicesandservewithcrèmefraîcheifdesired.
Serves6–8
WHITECHOCOLATEMINTMOUSSE
Iamnotnormallymuchofawhitechocolateperson,butthepeppermintseemstoeradicateitslethalrichness.Nevertheless,mynephewdidsayofit,whenIlethimhavesomeforabirthdaytreat,thatitwaslikebeingabletoeattheicingwithouthavingthecake.Hewasn’tspeakingfiguratively.Andbecauseitisrichandsweet,Iserveitinuncharacteristicallysmallportions.Astheysayinshowbiz,alwaysgoodtoleave’emwantingmore.
9ozwhitechocolate,brokenintosmallpieces1cupheavycream1eggwhite¼teaspoonpeppermintextract(IuseBoyajiannaturalpeppermintflavor)6freshmintleaves,optional
1Putthepiecesofwhitechocolateinabowl,andsitthisbowloverapanofsimmeringwateruntilthechocolatemelts,stirringgentlywithaspatulaeverynowandthen.Whenit’smelted,standthebowlonacoldsurfacetocooldownalittle.
2Inanotherbowl,usinganelectrichandheldwhiskforease,whipthecream,eggwhite,andpeppermintextracttogether.Youwantasoftlypeakingratherthanstiffmixture.
3Putabigdollopofcreamontotheslightlycooledchocolateandmix,andthengentlyfoldthechocolatemixtureintotherestofthecream.
4Dividethemixtureamong6smallbutperfectlyformedglasses—liketheonesopposite—withacapacityof¼cupeach.
5Chillinthefridgeorgivethemafasticyzapbysittingtheminthedeepfreezefor10or15minutes.Decorateeachglasswithamintleafforserving.
Serves6
Serves6
GLITZYCHOCOLATEPUDDINGS
Ifyou’vegotanelectricmixer—eitherahandheldoneorafreestandingmixer—thisisveryloweffortindeed,butitisarealshowstopper.There’ssomethingquiteextraordinaryaboutthegreedysilencethatfallsoverthetableasyouputtheseout.Youcanalmostfeelit.
Theglitzisprovidedbytheirutterfantabulousnessandthescatteringofcandyoverthetop.Ifyoudon’twanttouseacandybar,ofcourse,buysomeupmarkethoneycomb,orelsescatterwithsomefinelychoppedpistachios.Youwilllosethesugary-glitterlook,butyouwillstillhavebroughttolifeanelegantlyvoluptuouscreation.
4ozbittersweetchocolate½cupsoftbutter4eggs1cupsugar⅓cupflour¼teaspoonbakingsodapinchofsalt
FORTHEGLAZE:5ozbittersweetchocolate3tablespoonsbutter22.1-ozButterfingerbars,brokenintoshards
1Preheattheovento350°F.
2Breakupthechocolateandmeltitwiththebutterinabowlinthemicrowaveoroveradoubleboiler.Onceit’smelted,sitthebowlonacoldsurfacesothatthechocolatecools.
3Preferablyinafreestandingmixer,beattheeggsandsugaruntilthickandpaleandmoussey,thengentlyfoldintheflour,bakingsoda,andpinchofsalt.
4Foldintheslightlycooledchocolateandbuttermixtureandthendivideamong8ramekinsorcustardcups.Putintheoventobakefor25minutes.
5Meanwhile,getonwiththeglazebymeltingthechocolateandbutterinamicrowave(ordoubleboiler),thenwhisktoformasmoothglossymixtureandspoonthisoverthecookedpuddings.
6DecoratewithButterfingerrubble:Ijustputthebarsinafreezerbag,settowitharollingpin,andstrewoverthetop.OrmakethisaDIYjobbyusingtheHokeyPokeyhere.
Serves8
ICECREAMCAKE
Idon’tthinkacook’sjobshouldbetodeceive,butthereissomethingappealingaboutthefactthatthislooksandtastesasifitwereincrediblyhardworkandyetinvolvesnotmorethanabitofstirring.Youmust,though,serveawarmsaucewithit—it’sthecrowningglory—andI’vecertainlygivenyouoptionsbelow.
Tobefrank,youcanchoosedifferentcookies,differentnuts,anddifferentnubblybitsgenerallytomixinwiththeicecreamandgivecrunch,texture,andsuddenshardsofflavor.Ifindithardtobelieve,however,thatthiscouldbeinanywayimproved.Sorry,butthat’sjusthowitis.
2½pintsicecream¾cuphoney-roastedpeanuts1¼cupsNestléSwirledMilkChocolateandPeanutButterMorselsorusechocolatechipsofyourchoice
2.1-ozButterfingerbar,brokenintoshardsanddustyrubble1½cupschocolatecookiecrumbs1batchbutterscotchsauce(seehere)plus1batchchocolatesauce(seehere)or1batchchocolatepeanutbutter–flavoredsauce(seehere)
1Lettheicecreamsofteneitherinthefridgeforawhileoroutinthekitchen.
2Linean8-inchspringformpanwithplasticwrap,bothinthebottomandsidesofthepansothatyouhavesomeoverhangatthetop.
3Emptytheslightlysoftenedicecreamintoabowlandmixinthepeanuts,1cupmilkchocolateandpeanutbuttermorselsorchips,Butterfingershards,and1cupofthechocolatecookiecrumbs.
4Scrapetheicecreammixtureintothespringformpan,flatteningthetoplikeacake.Coverthetopwithplasticwrapandplaceinthefreezertofirmup.
5Servethecakestraightfromthefreezer,unmoldingfromthepanbyreleasingthesidesandpullingtheplasticwrapgentlyawaybeforeputtingonaplateorcakestand.
6Sprinklethetopofthecakewiththeextra¼cupofmilkchocolateandpeanutbuttermorselsorchipsandtheremaining½cupchocolatecookiecrumbs.
7Cutintoslicesandservewiththebutterscotchandchocolatesaucesorthechocolatepeanutbutter–flavoredsauceandoneoftheothers,lettingbothsaucesdribblelacilyovereachslice.Iftwosaucessoundliketoomuchtrouble—they’renot—justoptforthechocolatepeanutbuttersauce.It’shardtofindanargumentagainstit.
Serves8–10
BLACKBERRIESINMUSCATJELLY
Thisisunlikeanythingelse:Thetextureissoftset,sothatyouknowit’snotaliquidbutitdoesn’thavetheheftofasolid.Andtheacidityoftheblackberrieswithinthemuskysweetnessofthejellyisafurtherthrill.
WhatIdoismakethisinthemorningoftheeveningIwanttoeatit.Itissostraightforwardthatyoucandoitgroggilyatbreakfast,notrouble.Itdoesn’tneedsolongtoset,butIfinditeasiertoworklikethis.
2cupsblackberries5sheetsgelatin2½cupsBeaumedeVeniseorothermuscatwine½cupwater2tablespoonslimejuice½cupvanillasugarorgranulatedsugarheavycreamtoserve
1Dividetheblackberriesamong6glasses;Iuseold-fashionedchampagnesaucerswithayieldofabout¾cupeach.
2Soakthegelatinsheetsinadishofcoldwaterfor5minutes.
3Putthewine,water,sugar,andlimejuiceinasaucepan,putontheheat,andstirtodissolvethesugar.Bringtoaboilandboilfor1minutebeforeremovingthepanfromtheheat.
4Wringoutthegelatinsheetsandplaceinacup.Whiskaround½cupofthehotliquidintothegelatinsheetsintheircupbeforepouringthegelatinandliquidmixtureintothepanofhotliquid,whiskingwelltomix.Allowtocoolalittle.
5Pourtheliquidovertheblackberriesintheirglassesandrefrigerateuntilset,3–4hoursdependingonhowcoldyourfridgeis,orovernight.
6Servewithsomecreaminapitcher,separately.
Serves6
GINGER-PASSIONFRUITTRIFLE
Idon’tthinkI’veeverwrittenabookwithoutatrifleinit,andI’mnotabouttostartnow.Besides,thisisoneofthosedessertsthatlooksspectacularbutrequirestheleastamountofeffortandscarcelyanytimeatalltomake.Andbytheway,whenIsay“make,”Ireallymeanassemble.
Thetaste,though,isgloriousand,forallitssimplicityofconstruction,itfeelslikeabigdeal.Richthough,whichmeansyoucanfeedalargetablefulofpeoplewithonefabulousmound.
1lbstore-boughtspongeorpoundcakeorsameweightofbaker’smadeleines½cupStone’sgingerwineorcreamsherry2cupsheavycream4teaspoonspowderedsugar8passionfruit
1Sliceorbreakthecakeintopiecesandarrangehalfoftheminashallowdish,thenpourhalfthegingerwineoverthem.Mounduptheremaininghalfofthecakeandpourtheremaininggingerwineontop.
2Whipthecreamwiththepowderedsugaruntilitisfirmbutnotstiff;youwantsoftpeaks.
3Scooptheinsidesof2passionfruitintothebowlofcreamandfoldinbeforemoundingthecreamfloppilyoverthedrenchedsponge.
4Scoopouttheremaining6passionfruitontothewhitepileofcreamsothatitisdousedanddribblingwiththeblackseedsandfragrantgoldenpulp.
Serves8–10
Thisisembarrassing,butImustgetitoffmychestbeforeIgoanyfurther.IdoknowIamnotremotelyqualifiedtotellanyoneanythingaboutMexicanfood.Ihaven’t,Iambothashamedtoadmitandregretfultoacknowledge,evenbeentoMexico.
SoifitwouldbemisleadingtoclaimthisasmyMexicanchapter,itistruthfultosayit’sdefinitelyinspiredbyMexicanfoodandculture.LetmejustaddthatIdon’tactuallythinkthatalltheyeatinMexicoareavocadosandtortillas,butsomehowtheyseemtobeexuberantlyrepresentedhere.Ihavealwaysbeensomeonetokeeparegularstashofavocadosinthehouse,butnowpackagesofsofttortillasareasmuchastaple.Ifthereain’tthewherewithalforaquesadillainmyhousehold,believemeI’mnotallowedtoforgetit.
IfIdon’tclaimauthenticity,IcanatleastsaythatIhaveendeavorednottobecrasslyinauthentic.NoMexicanshavebeenharmedinthewritingofthischapter.Toexpand:WhereverpossibleIhaveropedinMexicanfriends,orfriendsoffriends,totaste,criticizeandactasguineapigs,andtheirfabulouslygreedyapprovalhasmeantalottome.
Andwhileit’struethatmydelightinthechapter’stitlemighthaveencouragedmeinitially,thefactofthematterismyresearchandthefooditinspiredinturnhaveledtosomeofmyfavoriterecipesinthebook.Thisisnotaboutthelureofthenew.Iamenoughofatraditionalist—inthekitchenatanyrate—tobewaryofnoveltyandcomfortedbythefamiliar.Butthisisfastfoodthatisfreshandvibrantandinturnmakesyoufeelmoreawakeandaliveeatingit.
MEXICANSCRAMBLEDEGGS
Thisisnotonlythebestwaytostarttheday,butthebestwaytoendit,too.Youcanmakeitevenmoreofamealbyservingsomerefriedbeansalongside,butIloveitjustasitis.Italsohappenstobeoneofthegreatesthangovercuresaround.Youknow,IthinkImightconsideroverdoingitpartywisejusttohaveanexcusetowhipupabatchofthese.Butthen,theyaresogoodthatthereisalwaysareasontoeatthem;noneedtoscoutaroundforexcuses.
2tablespoonsvegetableoil2softcorntortillas1tomato1scallion1smallgreenchile,deseededandchopped4eggs,beaten¼teaspoonkoshersaltorpinchtablesalt
1Heattheoilinafryingpan.Rollupthetortillasintoasausageshapeandthensnipthemintostripswithapairofscissorsstraightintothehotoil.
2Frythetortillastripsforafewminutesuntilcrispandgolden,thenremovetoabowl.
3Halvethetomatoandremovetheseeds,thenroughlychopitandthescallionandaddtothehotoilypanalongwiththechoppedchile,turningeverythingaboutforaminuteorso.
4Putthecorntortillastripsbackinthepanandaddtheeggsandsalt.Usingawoodenspoon,moveaboutinthepanlikeyouwouldscrambledeggs.
5Removethepanfromtheheatoncetheeggsbegintosetandcontinuestirringthemuntiltheyaredonetoyourliking.
Serves2
MEXICANCHICKENSALADWITHBLACKBEANSALSA
Thisisalunchfitforthegods,andaprettydivinedinner,outsideonabalmynight,too.
JicamaissometimesknownasaMexicanpotato,thoughthat’sabitmisleadingsinceyoucaneatitraw.Itlookslikeaturnipwrappedinfreshgingerskin.Ifyoucan’tgetholdofajicama,thenI’dreplaceitwithanAsianorNashipearoradrainedcanofwaterchestnuts,cutintomatchsticks;whatyouwantisjuicinessandcrunch.Iwouldn’tsaynotoaGrannySmithapple,cutintochunkymatchsticks,either.
IadmitIhadneverevenheardofjicamabefore,butIphonedmygreengrocerandhesaidtheywereavailableatthemarketandjusttogivehimsomewarning.Idon’timaginethatyoucantalkasupermarketintostockingthemiftheydon’talreadyhavealeaningtowardLatinAmericanproduce—thoughyouneverknow—butIlikegoingtosmall,specialtystoreswhenIcan,andthisisanothergoodreasonwhy.
Thedressingisutterlyaddictive.Isometimeskeepajarinthefridgeforadayortwo;thelimeseemstostaveoffanybrowningorblackeningoftheavocadoflesh.
FORTHEDRESSING:1ripeavocado½cupsourcream3tablespoonslimejuice1clovegarlic,peeled1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesaltgoodgrindingofblackpepper
FORTHESALAD:2½cupsshreddedcookedchicken1lbjicama,peeledandcutinto¼-inchmatchsticksor28-ozcanswaterchestnutsslicedintostrips2scallions,finelyshredded½cupfinelychoppedcilantro3cupsshreddedromainelettuce
1Spoonthefleshoutoftheavocadoandputintoablenderwithalltheotherdressingingredients.
2Processthedressinguntilsmooth.
3Putallthesaladingredientsintoabowl,spoonoverthedressing,andtoss,makingsureeverythinggetscoatedwell.
Serves4–6
TOMATOANDBLACKBEANSALSA
Ikeepjarsofgreen(milder)andred(hotter)jalapeños,andpreferthefierinessoftheredhere,butit’sentirelyuptoyou.Andifyou’dprefertousefreshjalapeños,thendo.
115-ozcanblackbeans2tomatoes,deseededandroughlychopped⅓cuproughlychoppedpickledredjalapeñosfromajar1tablespoonlimejuice
1teaspoonMaldonsaltoranotherseasalt
1Drainandrinsethebeans,andthenmixinabowlwiththechoppedtomatoes,jalapeños,limejuice,andsalt.
2ChecktheseasoningandthenservewiththeMexicanchickensalad,eitherinabowltothesideordollopedonthesameplate.
Serves4–6aspartofthemeal
SWEETCORNCHOWDERWITHTOASTEDTORTILLAS
Thetortillasbeforewerethesoftflourones.Thesearethosecrisp,crunchycorn-grittytrianglesthatsomehowalwaysfeellikeaguiltypleasure.Althoughhavingsaidthat,Iknowonlythat“guiltypleasures”exist,butIhaveneverseenthepointoffeelingguiltyaboutpleasure.Rather,Iseeplentyofreasonforfeelingguiltyaboutfailingtotakepleasureinthings.
WhenIplantomakethis,Itendtotakeabigpackoffrozencornoutofthedeepfreezeatbreakfasttime,inreadinessforasuperquick,fantasticallysoothing,mellow-yellow,andverypleasingsupperthatnight.
Usewhatevercheeseyoulike;mostlyIgoforCheddarsinceIalwayshavesomeinthefridge,butIamhappyaboutusingupotherbitsandpieces.Ifchildrenareeating,it’swisetoomitthechiles—unlessthey’rebeingveryannoying.
6cupsfrozensweetcorn,defrosted3scallions,eachonetrimmedandhalved1clovegarlic,peeled
¼cupsemolina6cupshotvegetablestockmadefromconcentrateorbouilloncubes15cupslightlysaltedtortillachips2cupsgratedcheese
2longredchiles,deseededandfinelychopped,optional
1Preheattheovento400°F.
2Drainthecornandputintoafoodprocessorwiththescallions,garlic,andsemolina.Blitztoaspeckledprimrosemush;unlessyouhaveabigprocessoryoumayhavetodothisintwobatches.
3Tipthismixtureintoalargesaucepan,addthehotvegetablestock,andbringtoaboil,thenturndowntheheatandletthechowdersimmer,partiallycovered,for10minutes.
4Meanwhile,spreadthetortillachipsoutonanalumimumfoil–linedbakingsheetandsprinkleoverthecheese.Warminthehotovenfor5–10minutesoruntilthecheesemeltsoverthechips.
5Ladlethesoupintobowlsandputasmallmoundofcheese-moltenchipsintothemiddleofeachbowl.Sprinkleoversomeoftheredchile,ifyoufeellikeit,andserveimmediatelytoverygratefulpeople.
Serves6
QUICKCHILI
IsupposethisismoreTex-MexthanjustMex,butnonetheworseforthat.Besides,thereisareasonthatold-fashionedcookbooksdevotedsomuchenergytogroundmeat:Itmakesforasimple,speedysupper.
Luckily,thereisalotmoregoingforthisthanefficiency.Itjusthitsthespotwhenyouwantsomethingcomfortingbutnotbland:Itsoothesbutit’ssprightly.
Ifyou’vegotaricecooker—andImakenosecretofmydependencehere—thenyouputyourriceontosteambeforeyoumakethechiliandasubstantialsupperismereminutesaway,whichisjustthewayasubstantialsuppershouldbe.
5ozchorizosausage(notthehardsalamisortofsausage),halvedlengthwiseandcutinto¼-inchhalf-moons1lbgroundbeef
½teaspoongroundcumin½teaspoongroundcoriander½teaspoongroundcinnamon3cardamompods,bruised2cupsgood-qualitytomatoandchunkyvegetablesauceforpasta114-ozcanmixedspicybeans¼cupsweetchilesauce
¼teaspoonchileflakes,optional,orifyourcannedbeansarenotspicy
1Puttheslicedchorizointoahotpanandcookovermediumheatuntilthesausagecrispsalittleandgivesupitsorange-redoil.
2Addthegroundbeefandcookforabout5minutes,breakingitupwithawoodenforktohelpitbrown.
3Stirinthespicesandthenaddthetomato-vegetablepastasauce,beans,andchilesauce.Alsoaddthechileflakesifyouneedmoreheat.
4Bringtoaboil,thenturndowntheheatandsimmerfor20minutesandeatwithriceorjustasitis.Ifyou’renotaddinganyrice,youmightconsiderdollopingwithablobofsourcreamandsprinklingsomegratedcheeseandchoppedcilantro.Ican’tthinkofanywayofeatingthisthatisn’tgood.
Serves4
CHOPPEDCEVICHEANDMEXICOLA
Idon’tdenythatchoppingthefishintosuchtinypiecesseemsperhapsagainsttheexpressethos(ifImightputitthatway),butthere’snologicthatcandissuademe.Besides,itreallymeansthatyouhardlyhavetosteepthefishintheacidyjuicesatallbeforeitis“cooked”orratherdenatured(yes,thatistheterm)bythelime.Notthatthatismyreason:Ifindthateatingbigchunksofrawfish,nomatterthatitiscuredinsomewaybyitsacidbath,canspookpeopleoutandthisdaintyconfettisomehowdoesn’t.Iammadforitand,truthbetold,reallyloveitwithabigbowloftortillachipsontheside,butforeleganceoftenproducelittletoastsortostadasinstead.IgetaslenderFrenchbaguetteorficelleloafandcutintothinslices;oneloafshouldyieldabout40minitostadas.Brushwithalittleoilandthenburnishslightlyina400°Fovenfor10minutes.
Usewhateverfirmwhitefishisavailabletoyou;myMexicansourcesspeakofsierrabutthat’snotanoptionforme,geographically.IfIfindblackcod,sometimescalledChileanseabass(andisneithercodnorbass),thenIusethat,otherwisemonkfish.
MyMexicolacocktailgoeswellwiththis.Ican’tsayIhavearigidformulaforthissimpledrink:Ijustpour.ButI’lljotdownwhatIusuallydo,perglass,justtogetthingsstraight.IputashotofTequilaintoaglass,topwithicecubes,andaddlotsoflimeslices,thenfilltheglasswithverycoldCokeorPepsi.
8ozskinlessandbonelessblackcodormonkfishfillet,choppedasfinelyasyoucan⅓cuplimejuice1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt½teaspoondriedoregano3scallions,finelychopped¼cupchoppedcilantro,plusalittlemoreforsprinkling1jalapeñochileoranymedium-sizedgreenchile,deseededandchoppedtogiveatablespoon
Tostadasortortillachips,toserve
1Putthechoppedfishinawideshallowdishandsprinkleoverthelimejuice,salt,andoregano.Leavethisfor8minutes.
2Drainthefish;itwillhavemadeamilkyliquid.Addthescallions,cilantro,andchile,andstirgentlytogether.
3Youcaneitherputteaspoonfulsontolittletoastsandsprinkleoversomemorecilantro,orputthecevicheintoabowlforeveryonetodiptortillachipsinto.
Makesenoughforapproximately40littletostadas
QUESADILLAS
Ihavebeenwonovertothewayofthewrapgenerally,butIinsistthisisthebestuseofthetortillaever.IcameacrossitfirstinMiami,intheRaleighHotelinSouthBeachtobeprecise.Therestaurantthereisoneofmyfavorites:Itnestlesinaludicrouslybeautifulgarden,hungwithshimmeringlights,andthefoodissogoodthatwhenI’minMiamiIdon’tdareeatanywhereelse.
TheRaleigh’sMorningQuesadillaisatortillawrap,foldedaroundavocadoandscrambledeggandgrilledandshouldn’tbyrightsbeasgoodasitis.Youcandoaversionofit,shouldyouhaveanyMexicanscrambledeggleftoverfromtherecipehere,butIfindwheneverIputavocadoin,itsquelchesoutbeforeIgetthewraptomymouth.
Thesecheese-and-hambabiesareverygoodtoofferalongsidethecoolceviche,butIoftenmakethemforsupper.They’rethatgood—andthateasy.
Igivequantitiesforeachroundsoftflourtortilla;eachquesadillamakesthreelittletrianglesandit’sreallyuptoyouhowmanyofthemtoeat.Iwouldn’tpresume…
FOREACHFLOURTORTILLAWRAP:1ozthinlyslicedcuredham3coin-slicedslicesofpickledgreenjalapeñopeppersfromajar¼cupgratedcheese1scallion,finelyslicedafewleavesofcilantro1teaspoonoliveoil(notextravirgin)
TOSERVE:goodstore-boughtsalsaofyourchoice
1Heataridgedgriddle,griddlepan,orskillet.
2Placethetortillawraponthecounterinfrontofyouandcoverwiththeham.
3Overonehalfonly,sprinklethechoppedpickledjalapeño,thegratedcheese,andthechoppedscallion.Scatteroverthecilantroleaves.
4Carefullyfoldthetortillawrapinhalf,that’stosay,foldtheun-cheese-toppedhalfoverthecheesesoyouhaveafathalf-moon.
5Liftthisupcarefullyandbrusheachsidewiththeoilbeforeputtingitonthehotgriddle;grilleachsideforaminute.
6Usingasteadyhandandawidefinespatulaorfishslicer,transferthetortillatoaboardorplateandcutintothreetriangles.Eatwithsomesalsaontheside.Andpleasefeelfreetoplaywiththefillingsasyouwish.
Makes1quesadilla
ROQUAMOLE
Ihavepracticallyhadtositonmyhandstostopmyselfwritingaboutthisbeforenow.Now,naturallyIknowRoquefortdoesnotcomefromMexico,butbecauseitmeldsdeliciouslywithavocadoIcouldn’tresist;Ihopeyouwon’tbeableto,either.AndalthoughIhavecalledthisincrediblediproquamole,Ithinkitmaybebettermadewithalessillustriousbleu.SaintAguroutofawedge-shapedpackageisthecheeseIkeepinthefridgesothatIamever-readytomakethis.
Youdon’tneedtoservebluecorntortillachipswiththis;youdon’thavetoserveanykindoftortillachipwiththis,thoughbothdoaddtothelusciouseat-mequalityhere.ButI’malsoverykeenonahugeplatterofdippablebits:radishes,carrotbatons,sugarsnaps,younameit.
Forme,thiscanbeadipwithdrinks,aquicktreatforlunch,oragreedysolitarydinner.TheonlymealI’veyettoeatitatisbreakfast.Ithinkit’sjustaquestionoftime…
1cupcrumbledRoquefortorSaintAgurbluecheese¼cupsourcream2ripeavocados¼cupslicedpickledgreenjalapeñosfromajar2tablespoonsfinelyslicedscallions¼teaspoonpaprikalargebagofbluecorntortillachips
1Crumbleormashthebluecheesewiththesourcreaminabowl.
2Mashintheavocados.Iftheyareripe,aforkshouldbeallyouneed.
3Roughlychoptheslicedjalapeñosandstirthemintothemixturealongwiththefinelyslicedscallions.
4Arrangeinthecenterofaplateordish,dustwithpaprika,andsurroundwithtortillachips.Divein.
Serves4–6
FLAN
ThisisaridiculoussimplificationofatraditionalMexicandessertthatisnolessdeliciousforbeingeasiertomake.Youdon’talwayshavetosufferforyourart.
Ineffect,thisisalargecrèmecaramel;there’snothingtostopyoumakingitasmanysmaller,individualones,butitwilltakelongertolineeachmold.Whygiveyourselfthework?Thefactthattheflantakesaroundthree-quartersofanhourdoesn’tbotherme.Youdon’tneedtobedoinganythingwhileitbakesandanywayitneedsagoodlongtimetositaroundandchill.Butyoucandolikewisewhilethat’shappening.
Thetraditionalmethodistomakeakindofmilkreduction;Iknowthatopeningcansdoessoundabitliketrailertrashcookingbutinessence,you’vejustletsomeoneelsereducethemilkforyou.Ifindthisparticularcombinationofunsweetenedevaporatedmilkandsweetenedcondensedmilkdoesthetrick,sodiscardyourprejudicesandarmyourselfwithyourcanopener.
AMexicancameraassistant,Luis,Iworkedwithoncesaysthisisasgoodashismother’s.Ionlyhopehismotherdoesn’tknow.
¾cupsugar112-fl-ozcanevaporatedmilk114-ozcansweetenedcondensedmilk3largeeggs2teaspoonsvanillaextract
1Preheattheovento325°Fandputakettlefulofwaterontoboil.
2Putthesugarintoaheatproof,heavy-bottomed,orideallycoppertartetatindish(or9-inch-diameterpietin),andplaceoverlowheatuntilthesugarbeginstoturnintoaliquidsyrup.Swirlthesugareverynowandthenasitmelts.
3Thesugarwillbegintocaramelize—justbeforethesugarreachesthecolorofmaplesyrup,takethepanofftheheatandplaceitonacoolsurface.
4Whilethepan’scoolingdownalittle,swirlthecaramelizedsugaralittleupthesidesofthedishbeforeitsets.
5Emptytheevaporatedandcondensedmilksintoabowlandwhiskintheeggsandvanillaextract.
6Pourthismixtureoverthesyrup-linedtartetatindishandputitintoaroastingpan,fillingthepanwithfreshlyboiledwatertoabout1inchfull.
7Bakefor45–50minutesoruntilfirmandset.Liftthedishcarefullyoutofitswaterbathandsetasidetocool.
8Leavetheflaninthefridgeovernightorfor4hours.Whenyouarereadytoserve,turntheflanoutontoadishwithenoughofaliponittostopthesyruprunningoff.
Serves8–10
MARGARITAICECREAM
Thisisacinchtomake,andeasy-easy-easytoeat.Itis,nowthatIcometothinkofit,ineffectano-churnversionoftheicecreaminForeverSummer.Ifyouwanttoserveitinglassesdippedinsugarandsalt,byallmeansdo.Butitissogoodthatevenassomeonewhoisnotacommittedicecreameaterandnokindofadrinker,IfindIcanspoonitstraightintomymouthfromthecontainerI’vechilleditin.
Inotherwords:Nodecorativetouchesorembellishmentsareremotelyneeded.Thisistrulytheexpresswaytodessert-deliriousness.
½cuplimejuice3tablespoonsCointreauortriplesec2tablespoonstequila1¼cupspowderedsugar2cupsheavycream
1Pourthelimejuice,Cointreau(ortriplesec),andtequilaintoabowlandstirinthesugartodissolve.
2Addthecreamandthensoftlywhipuntilthickandsmoothbutnotstiff.
3Spoonintoanairtightcontainertofreezeovernight.Thisicecreamdoesnotneedripening(softeningbeforeserving),asitwillnotfreezetoohardandmeltsspeedilyandvoluptuously.
Serves6
BUÑUELOS
Abuñueloisasmallfritterofintensefabulousness.Ithinkanythingthatisfriedstartsoffwithanadvantageinthetastedepartment,andagoodsprinklingofsugarattheendcanonlyhelpthingsfurther.
Althoughthesearefried,theyareincrediblylight,andtheoilyoucooktheminisveryhot,sothatthebuñuelosdonothaveeventhesuspicionofgreasinessaboutthem.
Ifyouhaveafreestandingmixer—whichgenerallygreatlyaidstheexpresslife—theseareveryquicktomake,andtheytakehardlyanytimetofry.Ilovethemattheendofamealwithasmall,hotcupofcoffee.
Ifyouwanttotakeanevenmoreexpressroute,simplycutsomesoftcorntortillasintotriangles,deep-frythemquicklybutferociously,andthensprinklewithagoodlydustingofpowderedsugar.
¼cupmilk1egg1cupflour1teaspoonbakingpowder⅛teaspooncreamoftartar1tablespoonvegetableshorteningcookingoilforfryingpowderedsugarfordecorating
1Whiskthemilkandegginalargemeasuringcuporbowl.
2Puttheflour,bakingpowder,andcreamoftartarintoabowl,thenrubtheshorteningintothemixtureeitherbyhandorwithafreestandingmixer.
3Pourinthemilkandeggandmixtomakeasilkydough;bepreparedtoadd1–3tablespoonsofextraflourifit’stoosticky.
4Pourtheoilinapanuptoabout1inchdeepandplaceoverhighheattoreachatemperatureof350°F.
5Tearoffcherrytomato–sizedballsfromthedough,rubbingthemwithyourhandstoshapethem.Dropintothehotoilandcookforabout1or2minutesoneachsideoruntilgolden.
6Drainonpapertowelsandthenarrangeonaplateanddustwithpowderedsugarpushedthroughasmallstrainerwithateaspoon.
Makes30;enoughfor4–6or8ifjustapetitfourwithcoffee
MEXICANHOTCHOCOLATE
ThisisnotthefirstofmyMexicanhotchocolates,butIfeelitwillbemylast.Youcanmeltchunksofchocolate(asIhaveinpreviousversions)intohotmilk,butIlovetheparticularrichnessandthicknessyougetfromgoodEuropeanhotchocolatepowders.Plus,IaddKahlúa,sothereisreallynoneedtoconsideranythingelse.
Thewhippedcreamontopisnotessentialunlessyoudecidetoservethisinlieuofdessert-and-coffee,whichIcan’thelpthinkingisavery,verygoodideaindeed.
Cannedwhippedcream,whichgivesthatgloriouswhippedeffectis,alas,notalwayswonderful,butifyou’rebraveenough,buyanitrouscreamwhipperandlearntospurtandsquirtthefreshcreamatwill.
2cupswholemilk6tablespoonssuperiorEuropeanhotchocolatemix¼–⅓cupKahlúa,dependingontastesquirtywhippedcreamfromacan,optional4longcinnamonsticks
1Heatthemilkinapanandmakethehotchocolateaccordingtopackageinstructions.
2AddtheKahluaandthentakeofftheheatbeforeitboils.
3Servewithatoppingofthesquirtycream(ifyouareusing),andputthecinnamonsticksinasyouwouldstraws,thoughIamnotsuggestingtheybeusedassuch.
Serves4
Ihaveneverseenanypointinpretendingtobeotherthanoneis,andIdoratherfeelanywayIhavemadethemostofbeingafoodobsessive.Forgoodorbad,it’smylife,it’sme,andIdon’tseeanythingchanging.Sometimes,though,Idohavethegoodtastetobealittleashamed.So,Iriskshowingmyselfupinallmyfoolishnessnowbyconfessingthatwhenmysonstartedhavingtotakeapackedlunchtoschooleveryday,Ikeptadiary,chroniclingwhatI’dgivenhimtoeatand—ohyes—memorializingeitherhiscommentsorthestateofhislunchboxbytheendoftheday.Inotherwords,Itoldmyself,Iwastryingtoseewhatwassuccessfulandpopularandwhatwentuneaten.
IrealizedhowmadlyobsessiveIwasbeingwhenallmyfriendsderidedmeforchartingtheprinceling’sprandialprogressinthisfashion;notknowingIwassoidiotic,yousee,Ijustleftthediaryinplainsightinthekitchenforeaseofjotting.
Well,itdidn’tlast(theabandoneddocumentnowlanguishesinmysecretdrawer)notjustbecauseIwasmocked,butalsobecausethenoveltyworeoff,tobefrank.ButwhatIdoknowfromallthatishowharditistosupplydecentlunches,dayin,dayout,foradultsorchildren,orevenjustsomethingtoeatonthego,whenthefoodhastotravel,sitwell,andbepreparedwithoutmajortrauma.Therecipesthatfollowrepresentmyattempttofindawaythroughitall.Followme…
PEAANDPESTOSOUP
Providingsomethinghottoeatisthehardestchallenge,andalthoughthermosflasksofsoupprovidescopeforspillageandmess,Ifeeltheyareworththerisk.Thissoup—myall-timemost-requested—hasthebonus,too,ofbeingsosimpletomake,youcandoitwhileyoustumbleaboutthekitchenatbreakfast.
Whileyoucanmakeitwithpestofromajar,thedifferencewhenyouusethe“fresh”stuffinaplastictubthatyoufindinrefrigeratedsectionsinthesupermarketsisastonishing.
Ithinksoupstastebettermadeinablenderratherthanafoodprocessor,andit’sbesttouseablenderwithalidthathasacentralbitinthetopyoucanremove;thisstopspressurebuildingup,whichinturnpreventsyoufromgettingsoupalloveryouoryourwalls.Thiswouldnotbeagoodstarttotheday.
3cupswater3cupsfrozenpeas2scallions,coarselychopped1teaspoonkoshersalt½teaspoonlimejuice¼cupfreshpesto(notjarred)
1Thequickestwaytoproceedistofillakettlefirstandputitontoboil.Whenit’sboiled,measuretheamountofwateryouneedintoapanandputonthestovetocomebacktoaboil.
2Addthefrozenpeas,scallions,salt,andlimejuiceandleteverythingbubbletogetherfor7minutes.
3Discardthescallionsandblitzthepeasandtheirliquidwiththepestoinablender.
4Pourintoathermosflaskthatyou’veleftfilledwithhotwaterandthenemptiedandmakesureyouscrewthetoponsecurely.
Makesenoughfor2heartybowls
Makesenoughfor2heartybowls
CHICKENCAESARCORNETS
Thisisawrapbyanothername,butforareason:ThereisnowayIthinkaroll-upwrapcouldsurvivetravelbutthis,akindofcrepe-cornetapproach,ishardier.You’llstillhavetobecareful,butatleastyoustartwithanadvantage.
Ilovethesesomuch,Ihavetobecarefulnottoeateveryone’spackedlunchwhenImakethem.
1heapedcupshredded,coldcookedchicken¼cuporganicmayonnaisemincedorcrushedgarlic,optional⅔cupParmesancheeseshards2cupschoppediceberglettuce
¼teaspoonWorcestershiresaucesaltandpeppertotaste4softcorntortillas
1Putalltheingredients,exceptthetortillawraps,inabowlandmixwell.
2Placeatortillaonthecounterinfrontofyouandspoonaquarterofthemixtureontoaquarterofthewrap.Foldthewrapinhalf,andtheninquarters,soaflat,doubledsidecoversthebulgyfilledside,andproceedwiththeremainingthreetortillas.
3Wrapwellinaluminumfoilbeforetraveling.
Makes4
ROCKYROADCRUNCHBARS
Nooneisevergoingtocomplainabouthavingoneoftheseintheirlunchbox,andthey’reprettyhandytohavearoundinthekitchenforaquick,snatchedburstofenergyatanytime.
I’mnotclaimingthemtobeahealthfood,butwhenyou’retalkingaboutlunchontherun,packingquiteafewcaloriesintoasmallparcelcanbeviewedasapositiveadvantage.That’smyview,andI’mstickingtoit.
½cup(1stick)plus1tablespoonsoftbutter10ozsemisweetchocolate,brokenintopieces¼cuplightcornsyrup
8ozplainhardandcrunchycookies,suchasNabiscoSocialTeaBiscuits2cupsminimarshmallows
2teaspoonspowderedsugar
1Meltthebutter,chocolate,andcornsyrupinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.Scoopoutabout½cupofthismeltedmixtureandsetaside.
2Putthecookiesintoafreezerbagandthenbashthemwitharollingpin.Youarelookingforbothcrumbsandpiecesofcookies.
3Foldthecookiepiecesandcrumbsintothemeltedchocolatemixture,andthenaddthemarshmallows.
4Tipintoa9-inch-squarealuminumfoilpanandflattenasbestyoucanwithaspatula.Pouroverthereserved½cupofmeltedchocolatemixtureandsmooththetop.
5Refrigerateforatleast2hoursorovernight.
6Cutinto24fingersanddustwithpowderedsugarbypushingitgentlythroughasmallfine-meshsieveorteastrainer.
Makes24
Makes24
SESAMEPEANUTNOODLES
Ialwaysmakealargevatofthesesincethey’relovelytokeeptopickatinthefridge,too.Plus,althoughthey’reeasytomake,youdoneedquiteafewingredients—andthisholdstruewhetheryou’remakingasmallorbigbatch,soyoumayaswellgoallout.
FORTHEDRESSING:1tablespoonsesameoil1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil1tablespoonsoysauce2tablespoonssweetchilesauce⅓cupsmoothpeanutbutter2tablespoonslimejuice
FORTHESALAD:1¼lbscookedeggnoodles2cupsbeansprouts,rinsed1½cupssnowpeas1redpepper,seededandcutintosmallstrips2scallions,finelysliced¼cupsesameseeds¼cupchoppedfreshcilantro
1Whisktogetherallofthedressingingredientsinabowlorsmallpitcher.
2Putthenoodles,beansprouts,snowpeas,slicedredpepper,andslicedscallionsintoabowl.
3Pouroverthedressingandmixthoroughlytocoateverythingwell.
4Sprinklewiththesesameseedsandcilantroandpackupasneeded.
Serves8
BANANABUTTERSCOTCHMUFFINS
Agreatportionofmylifeisspentbakingwithbananas.Idon’tknowthatIwouldhaveactivelychosenthispath,butsinceIhaven’tbeenabletoshakeoffmyinabilitytothrowfoodaway,ever,Iamineluctablydriventofindwaysofsalvagingbananastooripetobeeasilyeatenraw.It’shardtoresistthelureofthesemuffins,andtheyareincrediblyquickandeasytomixupandbake.Furthermore,theirresilientsquidginessmakesthemverygoodtravelers.
Whitechocolatemorselscanbeusedinplaceofthebutterscotchonesandmychildrenseemtolovebothwithequalfervor,thoughI’mprettyfondofthesewithdarkchocolatechips,too.
½cupvegetableoil2eggs1⅔cupsflour½cupsugar1teaspoonbakingpowder½teaspoonbakingsoda1¼cupsmashedbananas(2–3ripebananas)1cupbutterscotch(orchocolate)chips
1Preheattheovento400°Fandlinea12-cupmuffinpanwithpaperliners.
2Measuretheoilintoalargeglassmeasuringcupandbeatintheeggs.
3Puttheflour,sugar,bakingpowder,andbakingsodaintoalargebowlandmixintheliquidingredients,followedbythemashedbananas.
4Foldinthebutterscotchchips,thendivideequalquantitiesintothewaitingmuffinpan—Iuseanicecreamscoopandaspatula—andbakeinthepreheatedovenfor20minutes.
Makes12
CRUNCHYSALADWITHHOTANDSOURDRESSING
Aswiththesesamepeanutnoodles,thisisoneofthosesaladsIlovetohavearoundtopickatfromthefridge,andunlikethenoodles,itistheverymodeloflow-calvirtue.Butbecauseit’sgotsuchpowerfulflavors,suchbite,itfeelsmorefillingandsubstantialthanithastherighttobe.Itreallykeepsyougoing,whichcanbeusefulhalfwaythroughalongdayatwork.
FORTHEDRESSING:2tablespoonsricevinegar2tablespoonscanolaoil1–2teaspoonsTomYampaste(accordingtotaste)1teaspoonsesameoil
1teaspoonhoneysprinklingofkoshersalt
FORTHESALAD:2cupsbroccolifloretscutinto1-inchpieces1cupquarteredslendergreenbeans1cupbabycorn,eachcobcutinto4
2cupsfinelyshreddednapacabbage2cupsbeansprouts1cupbuttonmushrooms,sliced
1Whisktogetherthedressingingredientsinaglassmeasuringcup.
2Cookthebroccolifloretswiththefinebeansandbabycornfor2minutesinapanofboilingwater.Drainandrefreshthembyplungingtheminasinkortubofcoldwater.
3Puttheshreddedcabbage,beansprouts,andslicedmushroomsintoabowlandaddthedrainedandrefreshedvegetables.
4Dressthesalad,tossingeverythingtogetherwell.
Serves4–6,dependingonwhetheryou’reeatingthisaslunchinitsentiretyorasasidedish
LUNCHBOXTREATS
Thisisexactlywhatitsaysinthetitle:crunchy,crisp,sweet,andtoothsome,andthereallygoodthingontopofallthatisthat,asaparent,youfeelyouaredoingyourchildrengoodwhileatthesametimegivingthematreat.Theamountofmilkchocolateisscant,andIgetawarmrushfromconsideringthenutritionalbenisonsofmalt,oats,andsesameseeds.
½cupricemaltsyrup¼cupbutter2ozmilkchocolate2cupscrispyricecereal1cupcornflakes½cupquick-cookingoats(notinstantoatmeal)½cupsesameseeds
1Meltthesyrup,butter,andchocolategentlyinaheavy-bottomedsaucepan.
2Addalltheotheringredients,turningtocoateverythingwell.
3Usingyourhands(encasedinlatexgloves),shapethemixtureintowalnut-sizedballs.Youshouldgetabout25;youcouldalsomakethisusinga12-cupmuffinpanwithpaperlinerstoget12cupcakes.
4Letthemsetinthefridgeforanhourorso,andtheywillkeepquitehappilyinthereforaweekoftreats.
Makes25treatsor12cupcakes
MORTADELLAPASTASALAD
Ihaveacertainamountofambivalenceaboutpastasalads,butfindthatmyemotionalseesawtipsevermoreinfavorofthem.Truthis,Iusedtobescathing.Butfindingthemsopopularwithmychildrenmakesmeseetheirvirtues.
Thisoneisafavoriteathome,thoughnoneofmyfinickylotwantthegreenbits;ifyousufferthesameirritationsandconstraints,takeouttheparsleyandleaveitforadultstosprinkleoptionally.
8ozfusillipasta2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonslemonjuice1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt½teaspoonmildGermanmustard,orsimilar1thickslicemortadellain1piece,about5oz,dicedinto¼-inchpiecestogive1cup½cupfinelychoppedcurlyparsley,optional⅓cupParmesancheese,flaked
1Bringapanofwatertoaboil,addsalttotaste,thencookthepastaaccordingtothepackageinstructions.
2Meanwhile,whisktogethertheoil,lemonjuice,salt,andmustardtomakethedressing.
3Drainthecookedpastaandtipitintoalargebowl,pouroverthedressing,andtosswelltocoat.
4Whencoolstirinthemortadellapieces,choppedparsley(ifusing),andParmesan.Checktheseasoning,addingsaltandpepperasrequired.
Serves4asapackedlunch
MINIMEATLOAVES
Makethese,eatthem,andyou’llseehowglorioustheyare;Iknowonlytoowellthattheydon’tlooksogood.Butlet’snotgointothat.Ifindthesenotonlydelicious,butarealboontoboot:IcanmakeupawholebatchandfreezetheonesIdon’twanttodispenseimmediately.Thisisawonderfultime-saver.
Theseminimeatloavesarebesteatencold,eitherdunkedinmayo,ketchup,ormustard,orslicedandmadeupintosandwicheswiththewholefandangoofsauces.Isometimesaddsomelingonberrytothemix,too.Throwinagherkinandsomepicklesandthisislunchnirvana.Don’tforgetthenapkins,though.
1lbsausagemeat1lbgroundbeef1cupquick-cookingoats(notinstantoatmeal)⅓cupA.1.SteakSauce2eggs,beaten2teaspoonsWorcestershiresauce1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt
1Preheattheovento400°F.
2Combinealloftheaboveinabowl,mixingreallywellwithyourhandsorafork.
3Dividethemixtureinto12balls,andthenshapethemintominiloaves.
4Sittheminimeatloavesonabakingsheetwithspacebetweenthemandcookfor30minutes.
5Youcouldeatthemhot,butbestletthemcoolandkeepinthefridgetosliceandeatinsandwiches.
Makes12
SPANISHOMELETTE
There’ssomethingaboutachunkygoldentriangleofpotato-and-pepper-filledomelettethatmakesapackedlunchorpicnicfeelsunshine-filledandcheery.Thisiseasyenoughtomake,butyoudoneedtogetitdoneinadvanceasthehottestyouwanttoeatthisisroomtemperature.
Itisoftendecreedthattheonlyingredients(otherthantheeggsofcourse)propertoaSpanishomeletteareonionsandpotatoes,butIlikealittletouchofoléredwithsomechoppedpeppers.Useeithertheconfettidiceofroastedredpeppersthatcomesinjars,orbuyajarofwholeroastedonesandroughlychopthemyourself.
Iamsorryifthisoffends—andnotonlytheSpanish—butyoucouldspeedthisupbyusingsomedrained,cannednewpotatoesinsteadofcookingrealones.
8ozbabynewpotatoes,halved4eggs½cupgratedManchegoorCheddarcheese⅓cupchoppedroastedredpeppersfromajar3scallions,finelysliced
saltandpeppertotaste1teaspoonbutterdropofoil
1Turnonthebroilerandletitheatupwhileyoustartofftheomelette.
2Cookthenewpotatoesinboilingwaterfor15minutesuntilcookedthrough,thendrain.
3Whisktheeggsinabowl,thenaddthepeppers,springonions/scallions,andcheeseandseasonwithsaltandpepper,thenaddthecooked,drainedpotatoes.
4Heatthebutterandoilinasmallskillet,andoncehotpourintheomelettemixandcookgentlyfor5minutes.
5Bythistime,thebottomoftheomeletteshouldbesetandratherthanturnit,
simplysittheskilletunderthebroilerforafewminutestosetthetop.
6Turntheomeletteupsidedownontoaplatetoletcool.Don’tworryifitfeelsalittlewibbly-wobblyinthemiddle,asitwillcarryoncookingasitcools.
7Oncecool,sliceinto4largeor8smallerwedges.
Serves4ormore,dependingonwhatelseisavailabletoeatatthesametime
BUTTERMILKROASTCHICKEN
Buttermilkchickenhaslongbeenoneofmyfavoritealfrescosummersuppers.Mymethodofchoicehasusuallybeentobutterflyachicken—orrather,manychickens—andthencutthemintofeistyquarterstolayeruponservingplates.I’vealteredthistomakecookingspeedier,andconveyingeasier,byusingonlydrumsticks.
12chickendrumsticks(approx.3lbstotalweight)2cupsbuttermilk¼cupplus2tablespoonsvegetableoil2clovesgarlic,bruisedandskinsremoved1tablespooncrushedpeppercorns
1tablespoonkoshersaltor1½teaspoonstablesalt1teaspoongroundcumin1tablespoonmaplesyrup
1Placethechickendrumsticksinalargefreezerbag,andaddthebuttermilkand¼cupofoil.
2Addthebruisedgarlicclovestothebagwiththecrushedpeppercornsandsalt.
3Sprinkleinthegroundcuminandfinallyaddthemaplesyrup,andthensquisheverythinginthefreezerbagaroundtomixthemarinadeandcoatthechicken.
4Leavethebuttermilk-marinatedchickeninthefridgeideallyovernightoroutofthefridgeforatleast30minutesandupto1hour.
5Preheattheovento425°F.Takethechickenpiecesoutofthebag,shakingofftheexcessmarinade,andthenarrangetheminaroastingpanlinedwithaluminumfoil.
6Drizzleoverthe2remainingtablespoonsofoil,andthenroastintheovenforabout30minutes,oruntilbrown,evenscorchedinparts,andjuicilycookedthrough.
Serves6
Serves6
NEWORLEANSCOLESLAW
Thisismyaccompanimentofchoiceforthebuttermilkchicken.Indeed,Ihaveevenconvertedfiercelycommittedanti-coleslawerswithit.Ican’trememberwhyIcallitmyNewOrleansColeslawnow(I’vebeenmakingit,oraversionofit,forsolong),butIthinkithassomethingtodowithallthewonderfulpecantreesIsawwhenIwasthere.
Doserveapotatosaladalongsideifyouwant:Yousee,inthepicturehereyouseesomebabynewpotatoesdousedinoliveoil,salt,andalittlelimejuice,shakenaboutinamustardjar.
1headofwhiteorsavoycabbage,weighingabout2lbsbeforetrimming2carrots4scallions2stalkscelery1cupbest-quality,preferablyorganic,store-boughtmayonnaise¼cupbuttermilk2tablespoonsmaplesyrup2teaspoonsapplecidervinegarsaltandpeppertotaste⅔cuppecans,fairlyfinelychopped
1Trimandshredthecabbage;youcandothiseitherbyhandorwithafoodprocessor.
2Peelandgratethecarrots,andfinelyslicethescallionsandcelery.Tossallthevegetablestogetherinabowl.
3Whisktogetherthemayonnaise,buttermilk,maplesyrup,andvinegarandcoattheshreddedvegetableswiththisdressing.
4Seasontotastewithsaltandpepperandtossinthechoppednuts.
Serves6
CLOUDYLEMONADEFORASUNNYDAY
Iamthinkingthatcarryingapitcheroflemonadeoutintotheyardorgardencountsasportablefood,andsinceIamalways,alwaysinahurryIamnodoubtontherun.Youcould,ofcourse,pourthisgloriouslysimple,old-fashionedlemonadeintoathermosflaskandtakeitonyourway.
Ifthemoodtakesyou,youcouldconsideraddingahandfulofraspberriestotheblenderjartocreatepinklemonade.
4cupschilledclubsodaorothercarbonatedwater2wholeunwaxedlemons,cutintoeighths¼cupsuperfinesugar,ortotasteicecubes
1Putthewater,lemons,andsugarintoablenderintwobatches,andblitzuntilthelemonispureed.
2Sievethelemonadeintoapitcher,pressingdownintothesieve,andthenpourintotumblersfilledwithice.
Serves4–6
HOKEYPOKEY
Iwasgoingtosaythatthisisn’tasfunasitsounds,butthenIreconsidered.HokeypokeyistheCornishtermforhoneycomb,andiswonderfuleateningoldenshardsorcrumbledintothebestvanillaicecream.YoucanalsouseitinplaceoftheButterfingerbarshereandhere.Iincludeithereasitistheperfectpresenttotaketoadinnerparty.Betterthanflowers,astheyneedtobeputintoavase,betterthanchocolate,whichpeopletendtosmilepolitelyat,butputawayinadrawer:NoonecanresistabitofHokeyPokey,I’vefound.
ThequantitiesI’vespecifieddon’tmakeanawfullot—enoughtofillalittletinabout4½inchesindiameterand2½inchesdeep—butanymoreandyou’dbesuedbyyourdentist.
½cupsugar4tablespoonsdarkcornsyrup1½teaspoonsbakingsoda
1Putthesugarandsyrupintoasaucepanandstirtogethertomix.Youcan’tstironcethepan’sontheheat,though.
2Placethepanontheheatandletthemixturefirstmeltandthenturntogooandthenabubblingmassthecolorofmaplesyrup—thiswilltake3minutesorso.
3Offtheheat,whiskinthebakingsodaandwatchthesyrupturnintoawhooshingcloudofaeratedpalegold.Turnthisimmediatelyontoapieceofreusablebakingparchment(Silpat)orgreasedaluminumfoil.
4Leaveuntilsetandthenbashatitsothatitsplintersintomanyglintingpieces.
Makes2cups
Ihavespentalot—amajoritynow,cometothinkofit—ofmyadultlifepretendingtomyselfthatIamItalian.Well,maybe“pretend”isthewrongword:IknowIamnotreally,butfeelmyselftobe.ButsinceIhavethemisfortunenottobeItalianinreality,Imustbeentitledtoone—theonlyonesurely—oftheadvantages.Andthatis,IcanplayalittlefastandloosewithItaly’sculinarytraditions.Irespectthem,Ilovethem,butwhat—truly—wouldbethepointofgivingyouheretherespectedandlovedrecipesthatcenturiesuponcenturiesofItalianshavebeencookingastraditiondecrees?Partofmewouldindeedlovetodojustthat(andIhavesomeplans,simmeringawayonabackburner,thatmightpermitsuchathinginthedistantfuturo),butfornowIwantedtobeasfaithfullyItalianasIcouldinmyreworkingofrecipes,whilenotfeelingIhadtobeslavishlyauthentic.
Thisisn’tnecessarilyaboutcuttingcorners;oneofthegreatattractionsofmuchItaliancookingisitsspeed,directness,andsimplicity.ButIdoknowalsothatmanyItalianfriendsofmygenerationandyoungerdon’tcook,feelingthattheirlivesaremorefreneticandwork-dominatedthanthelivestheirparentsandgrandparentslived.TherecipesthatfollowattempttomakeItalianfoodmanageable,andeasilymanageable,afteralongdayattheoffice—andI’veusedanItalianjournalistfriendasaguineapigtomakesurethatI’vesucceededinthat,withoutoffendingrealliveItalians.
I’vetwiddledandfiddledalittle,becausethat’swhatmakescookingalive.Ilovethissortoffood,andplayingaroundwithitinthekitchenisalwaysalifterofthespirit.Thehardestthinghasbeenwhittlingdownthischaptersoitdoesn’ttakeoverthewholebook.SoknowthatwhatfollowsisthebackboneofmyrepertoireandtherecipesIjustcouldn’t,couldn’tlivewithout.Hopeyoufeelthesameway.
TUNAANDBEANS
ThishasalwaysbeentheItalianantipastobutalthoughtraditionallyyouaremorelikelytocomeacrossitasthecombinationoftonnoandcannellini,Ilovethefleckedterra-cottaofcranberrybeans,givingyouthecolorsofTuscanyonaplate.
AndifyouarefeelinglessformallyItalianateinmood,thenthismakesasimple,speedysupperfortwo;allI’dwantalongsideissomegoodbread.
⅓cupfinelychoppedredonion¼cuplemonjuice214-ozcansborlottiorcranberrybeans18-ozcanbest-qualitytunatogive1¼cups2tablespoonsextravirginoliveoilsaltandpeppertotaste2tablespoonschoppedparsley
1Putthechoppedonionintoabowlwiththelemonjuiceandletitsteepwhileyougetonwiththesalad.
2Drainthebeansandrinsethemtogetridofanygloop,thenarrangetheminabowl.
3Drainthetunaandflakeitintothebeans.
4Addtheoliveoiltotheonionandlemonjuicemixtureandwhisktomakeadressing,pourthisoverthetunaandbeans,andtransfertoyourservingdish.
5Forkthesaladthrough,seasoningwithsaltandpepper,andthenscatterovertheparsley;ifyouwanttoputthisonaplate(ratherthanadish),considerstrewingtheplatewitharugulafirst,orusingittomakealeafyborder.
Serves4–6asastarteroraspartofameal
MOZZARELLAWITHCRAZYGREMOLATA
Therearenobadwaysofeatinggoodmozzarella.Iamperfectlyhappyjustwithasprinklingofsaltandagreenglugofoliveoil,butthisissomethingspecial.Gremolata—orgremolada—isthetraditionalflavoringspritzgiventoossobuco,andisasprinklymixtureofgratedlemonzest,garlic,andparsley.Mine,here,isanexuberant,madcapversion,fulloffireandflavorandgorgeouslyvibrantagainstthemilkywhiteofthemozzarella.
2ballsbuffalomozzarella1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped6blackolives,finelychoppedzestof1unwaxedlemon½clovegarlic,minced
½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt3tablespoonsextravirginoliveoil2tablespoonsfinelychoppedparsley
1Slicethemozzarellainto¼-inchroundsandarrangethemonaplate.
2Inabowl,mixthechoppedchilewiththechoppedolives,lemonzest,andmincedgarlic.
3Tipinthesalt,oil,andparsleyandstirtogethertomakeyourc-c-c-c-razygremolata.
4Spoonthegremolatadownthecenterofyourslicedmozzarella.
Serves6aspartofastarter
PAPPARDELLEWITHESCAROLE
Thisisassimpleandasbasicasarecipecouldbe,andallthebetterforit.IlovethewayItalianscookgreenswiththeirpasta,andoftenthosearetherecipes,perhapsthoughttobeunglamorous,thatdon’tmakeitoverhere.Andmaybeit’salsothecasethatnon-Italiansneedalittlemorepersuasiontothrowalettuceintotheirsaucepan.Ifyoucan’tgetescarole,whichisamemberoftheendivefamily,useanysimilarlettuce—curlyendive,frisee,orsomesuch.Whatyouwantisarobustleafwithanedgeofbitterness,andwithitIthinkyouneedanequallyrobustpasta.Ialwaysgoforthethickroughribbonofpappardelle,butfailingthat,youmightconsiderrigatoni.
1tablespoongarlic-infusedoliveoil1teaspoondriedcrushedchiles16–18cupsroughlyslicedescarole1cupwhitewine
1cupwater1lbeggpappardelle½cupchoppedparsley½cupflakedParmesancheesesalttotaste1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped,optional
1Putalargepotofwaterontoboilforthepappardelle.
2Inanother—wide—pan,heattheoilgentlywiththedriedchileflakes,andthenaddtheslicedescarole,stirringtohelpitwiltdownintheoil.
3Addthewineandwaterandpartiallycoverthepan,lettingtheescarolecook,bubblingaway,forabout6minutesandletthepastacookinitspanatthesametime.
4Tossthedrainedpastaintothecookedescarole(thiswillbeafairlyliquidmixture)andscatterwiththeparsleyandcheese,checkingtheseasoningasyoudoso;decoratethetopwiththefreshredchileifyouwantenhancedheatandcolor.
Serves4–6
Serves4–6
LINGUINEWITHLEMON,GARLIC,ANDTHYMEMUSHROOMS
Thisisoneofmyproudestcreations,andIsupposeagoodexampleofarecipethatisn’ttraditionallyfromItaly,butsitsuncontroversiallyinherculinarycanon.Idon’tthinkitwouldbetoopresumptuoustonamethislinguineaifunghicrudi.Itisaboutasspeedyasyoucanimagine:Youdonomoretothemushroomsthanslicethem,steeptheminoil,garlic,lemon,andthyme,andtossthemintothehotcookedpasta.I’mafraidIhadtohavethisforciblytakenawayfrommeduringthephotoshootforthisbook,otherwiseI’dhaveeatenitallupbeforeithadevenhaditspicturetaken.
Thedressedmushroomsalsomakeagreatsalad,butinwhichcaseboostthequantitiesofslicedmushrooms(keepingotheringredientsthesame,andobviouslyyou’reomittingthepastaaltogether)to6cups.
Ifallyoucanfindareregularbuttonmushrooms,thispastaisstillworthmaking—sonoexcusefornot.
8oz/4cupsfinelyslicedcreminimushrooms⅓cupextravirginoliveoil1tablespoonkoshersaltor1½teaspoonstablesaltsmallclovegarlic,minced
zestandjuiceofalemon4sprigsfreshthyme,strippedtogive1teaspoonleaves1lblinguine1bunchparsley,choppedtogive½cup2–3tablespoonsfreshlygratedParmesancheese,ortotastefreshlygroundpepper
1Slicethemushroomsfinely,andputthemintoalargebowlwiththeoil,salt,mincedgarlic,lemonjuiceandzest,andgorgeouslyscentedthymeleaves.
2Cookthepastaaccordingtothepackageinstructionsanddrainloosely,retainingsomewater.Quicklyputthepastaintothebowlwiththemushroommixture.
3Tosseverythingtogetherwell,andthenaddtheparsley,cheese,andpepperbeforetossingagain,andeatwithjoyinyourheart.
Serves4–6
SPAGHETTINIWITHSHRIMPANDCHILE
ThisiswhatImakeforpeoplewhenIwantsomethingthatneedsnothought,nofuss,noeffortbutwillguaranteeinstantgratificationallaround.Ikeeptheshrimpinthedeepfreezeandeitherthawthemovernight(ormorelikelyfrombreakfasttimetillafterwork)inthefridge,ordoaquickthawjobwhenIgethome.Thesunblushtomatoesaregenerallystashedinmyfridgetospruceupsalads,makeupaquicksauce,orgussyuppastajustlikethis.
1½cupsfrozencookedpeeledshrimp,defrostedsalt8ozspaghettini¼cupfinelyslicedscallions½teaspooncrushedchileflakes2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1cupsunblushtomatoesinseasonedoil½cupwhitewineorNoillyPrat1½cupsarugula¼cupchoppedflat-leafparsley
1Draintheshrimpandleavetoonesideforthemoment.
2Putoncopiousamountsofwatertoboil,thenwhenboilingaddsaltandthenthepastaandcookaccordingtopackageinstructions,orslightlyunder.
3Inalargepan(bigenoughtotakethepastalater),frythefinelyslicedscallionsandchileflakesinthegarlicoilforacoupleofminutes,thentipinthetomatoeswiththeiroilandtheshrimp.
4Whenbothhavewarmedthrough,addthewhitewineorNoillyPratandletbubbleup.Addthearugula,tornroughly,andstirtillwiltedalittle.
5Strainthepastawhenready,reservinghalfacuporsoofpasta-cookingwater,andtossthedrainedpastainthechile-shrimppan.
6Turnoutintoalargewarmedservingbowlandtosseverythingagainsothatalliscombined,addingalittleofthecookingwaterifitneedsitandadding
moreoilorgarlicoilifyouwant.
7Sprinklewiththechoppedflat-leafparsley,andserve.
Serves4asastarter,2asamaincourse
BLACKPASTAWITHREDMULLET
Whileit’struethatcoloredpasta—eventheimpeccablyauthenticblacksquidpasta—iseatenverymuchmoreoutofItalythanwithinit,thisrecipeisinspiredbythemostwonderfulfishpastaIhadthesummerbeforelastatasmallrestaurant,LaFontanina,ontheroadthatspiralsupfromPortoSantoStefanoontheTuscancoast.Itendtomakethisasaspecialtreat,assupperfortwo,butifyouwantto,ofcourseserveitasastarter,butgolight,verylight,afterward.
Iuseroséwine,becausethat’swhatIdrink—clinkedwithiceandspritzedwithsoda—throughoutsummer,butwhitewouldbefine,andmuchmoreItaliantoboot.
I’veindicatedthepastaIcustomarilyuse(andbuyfromthesupermarket)asitismuchmoretenderthanthedriedsquidpasta.Butplease,useanytender,thinribbonsofpastayouwant.Andifredmulletisnotavailable,northerngoatfishorredporgyarethebestalternatives.Basswouldbealovelybutexpensiveoption.
2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil2scallions,finelysliced7–9ozredmullet,goatfish,orredporgyfillets1cuproséwine½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesaltgoodgrindingofpepper2tomatoes,halved,deseeded,thenchoppedintodice2tablespoonsdrainedcapers1tablespoonbutter8ozfreshblacksquidtagliolini⅓cupbasilleaves
1Putasaucepanfulofwaterontoboilforthepasta.
2Heattheoilinaskilletandcookthescallionsforaminutebeforeaddingthefishfillets,skinsidedown.
3Turnthefilletsoverafteraminuteor2,thenpourinthewineandaddthesaltandpepper.
4Oncethefilletsarecookedthrough,whichshouldbeinaboutanotherminute,liftthemoutandwrapinaluminumfoiltokeepwarm.
5Letthewineypanjuicesbubbledownforabout3minutes,thentipthetomatodice,capers,andbutterintothepanandwhiskontheheat.
6Cookthefreshpasta—itwilltakeabout2minutes—anddrainit,putitintothesauce,thentossgentlybutwell.
7Flakethefish,leavingtheredskinonparts,andtenderlytossthroughthepastawiththebasil,leavingsomemoretosprinkleonwhenyouserve.
Serves2asamaincourse,4asastarter
POLLOALLACACCIATORA
Thisisanoldfavorite—chickencooked“thehunter’sway”—whichgrantsacertainamountofculinarylicense.This,myversion,istraditionalenough,onlyspeededupandsimplified.Theonlyunexpecteddeviationliesintheadditionofacanofcannellinibeans.This,ineffect,turnsitintoaquick,one-pot,all-inclusivesupper.Havingsaidthat,Ialsoadoreit—asdomychildren—withplainsteamedriceaswell.Butwhatever,whenIcookthis,IknowIcancountongettingsupperonthetablefromscratchcomfortablyinunderhalfanhour.
1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil½cuppancettacubes6scallions,finelysliced1teaspoonfinelychoppedfreshrosemary1lbchickenthighfillets,eachcutinto4pieces½teaspooncelerysalt
½cupwhitewine114-ozcanchoppedtomatoes2bayleaves½teaspoonsugar114-ozcancannellinibeans,optional
1Putthegarlicoilintoapanwiththepancetta,slicedscallions,andchoppedrosemaryandfryforacoupleofminutes.
2Addthebite-sizedchickenpieces,stirringwell,andsprinkleinthecelerysalt.
3Pourinthewineandletitcometoabubblebeforeaddingthetomatoes,bayleaves,andsugar.Putthelidonandletthepansimmerfor20minutes.
4Drainandaddacanofcannellinibeans(ifusing),andwhentheyhavewarmedthroughtoo,youarereadytoeat.
Serves4
LAMBRIBCHOPSWITHCHILEANDBLACKOLIVES
NoonedoeslambchopsbetterthantheItaliansandthisrecipe,whichcomestomebywayofthegreatAnnaDelConte,isacaseinpoint.Thenuggetsofpinkmeataresotenderandflavorful,youjustwanttognaweverymorselrightoffthebone.
I’dkeepsidedishesplain—maybesomesteamednewpotatoesandgreenbeansorsomesuch—asthisneedsnoattention-seekingembellishment.
AndIcan’ttellyouhowheavenlytheyare,shouldyoubeluckyenough(andit’sunlikely)tohavesomeleftover,snatchedcoldstraightfromthefridgethedayafter.
12lambribchops¼cupoliveoil3clovesgarlic,peeledandsliced1teaspoonchileflakes1teaspoondriedoreganozestandjuiceof1smalllemon1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt15blackolives,pittedandsliced2tablespoonsoil,forfrying1longredchile,deseededandfinelychopped,optional
1Layertheribchopsbetweenplasticwrapandflattenthemgentlywitharollingpinormeatmallet.Placethechopsinalargedishsothattheyallfitinasinglelayer.
2Pouroverthe¼cupofoilandaddthegarlic,chile,oregano,andlemonzestandjuice.Sprinkleoverthesaltandtheolivesandthenturntheribchopsinthemarinadesothatbothsidesarecoated.
3Coverandleavethelambtomarinatefor20minutesatroomtemperaturebeforecooking.
4Heatalargeskilletwiththe2tablespoonsofoilandaddthechops,scrapingoffthemarinadebeforeyouputtheminthepan.Frythemforacoupleofminutesasideonquiteahighheatsothattheytakeonsomecolor.
5Turntheheatbackdowntomediumandpourthemarinadeintothepanoverthecoloredchops.Add2tablespoonsorsoofwatersothattheycookinalittleliquid.Cookforabout5minutesforrarecutletsoralittlelongerifyoulikeyourlambwellcooked(thiswillalsodependonthethicknessofthechops).
6Transferthelambtoaservingplate,pouroverthejuicesfromthepan,andsprinklewiththechoppedredchileshouldyoufeellikeenhancingthedriedchilewiththepepoffresh.
Serves4
LIVERWITHBACONANDCHARREDONIONS
Liverisnotforeveryone,Iadmit,andIwouldn’tadvisecookingitforadinnerparty.Butthosewholoveit,adoreit,anditmakesagreattreatforasupperfortwo.LiverandonionsisasItalianasitisBritish(thoughverydifferent)andIaddbacontothis,asthesaltyjuicesaretheperfectfryingmediumfortheliver,addingfoilandcounterpointtoitsmoussey,sweetflesh.Iliketokeepthetonesbeautifullysomber;withthescorcheddarkpinkofthebaconaresplinteredsweetstrandsofblackenedredonion,andwiththeliver—ashomagetofegatoallavenezianaandbecausethefreshbitternessisjustwhat’sneeded—Imakeasaladofmaroon-leafedradicchio.
Ifyoufeellikeenhancingtherenaissancepaintingatmosphere,considerscatteringsomepomegranateseedsontop.
4slicesbacon1teaspoongarlic-infusedoil1½cupsthinlyslicedhalf-moonsofredonion12ozverythinlyslicedcalf’sliver,about4long,thinpieces2tablespoonsbalsamicvinegar2tablespoonswater
1tablespoonchoppedparsley
1Cookthebaconintheteaspoonofgarlicoiluntilverycrisp,andthenremovetopapertowelsandthentoapieceofaluminumfoil,wrappingtheslicesintoabaggybuttightlysealedparceltokeepwarm.
2Cooktheonionsinthesamepan—intherenderedbaconfat—untilsoftandwiltingandbeginningtocharinparts,andthenremovethemtoabowl.
3Cooktheliverinthesamepanagain,forabout1½minutesasideorlongerifithasn’tbeenverythinlysliced.
4Dividethecookedliverbetween2platesandquicklywashoutthepanwiththevinegarandwater,lettingitbubbleupandmakeascantsyrup.
5Pourthisovertheliverandcoverwiththeonions.Crumbleoverthebaconandsprinklewiththeparsley.
Serves2
ITALIANSAUSAGESINHOTTOMATOSAUCEWITHPOLENTA
Italiansausagesarefabulouslyquicktocook—andfabulouslygoodtoeat.Andifthelambchopshereprovidejusttherightsortofheatforaspringorsummermeal,thesesausagesblanketyouwithwinterwarmth.Theheattheyaredrapedincomesfromacoupleofjarsofreallytop-qualitytomatoandchilepastasauce.Aregularpastasaucejustwon’tcutithere;ithastobeagenuinelyimpressivehigh-endone.
1tablespoonchileoil2lbsItaliansausages,sweetorspicy4tablespoonsMarsalawine2½cupschiletomatosauceforpasta1cupwater1lbinstantpolentaboilingwaterandchickenstockconcentrateorbouilloncubes2tablespoonsoliveoil
1Heatthechileoilinaskilletandaddthesausages,separatingthelinksandlettingthemfryforabout5minutesuntiltheyarecolored.
2AddtheMarsalaandletthepanbubbleforaminuteorso,thenpourthetomatochilesauceandwateroverthesausages.
3Simmerfor15minuteswhileyougetonwithmakinguptheinstantpolentaaccordingtopackageinstructionsonlyusingchickenstock(fromabouilloncubeorconcentrate)ratherthanjustwater.
4Whenthepolenta’scooked,whiskin2tablespoonsofoliveoil.Dividethepolentaamong6warmedplatesandtopwiththesausagesandhottomatosauce.Ifyouhavemoresaucethanyouneedperplate,justpouritintoalittlepitcherforpeopletoaddastheywant.
Serves6
MARSALA-HONEYPEARSWITHGORGONZOLA
WithallduerespecttodeGaulleandhiscountrymen,IwouldhappilyforgoeachandeveryoneofFrance’s246cheesesforonewedgeofGorgonzola.Forme,itisthekingofcheeses,thequeenofcheeses,thegrandempressofcheeses.Thisdishismywayofpayingrespectstoit,althoughIadmitIamperfectlyhappytoeatitallalone(justmeandthecheese).Ifyouwantcheeseattheendofadinnerparty,thenthisisthewaytodoit.
Andwhileit’snotanItalianrecipe,itisentirelyItalianininspiration.Formeit’sautumninMilancastinfood.
2pears(approx1lbtotalweight),eachcutintoeighths(butunpeeledanduncored)2tablespoonsoliveoil(regular,notextravirgin)3tablespoonsMarsalawine2tablespoonshoney½cupwalnuthalves1lbripegorgeousGorgonzolainperfectcondition;itshouldneverhaveseentheinsideofyourfridge
1Whileyouarecuttingthepearsintoeighths—i.e.,quarterthemandhalveeachquarter—lettheoilheatinalargeskillet.
2Frythepearsfor3minutesaside,andwhiletheyarefryingwhisktheMarsalaandhoneytogetherinacup.
3Whenthepearshavehadtheirtime,throwintheMarsala-honeymixtureandletitbubbleupvociferouslyaroundthepears.Thentransferthem,allbronzedandsyrupy,toaplate.
4Addthewalnutstothedarkjuicesleftinthepanandstir-frythemforaboutaminuteuntiltheyarethemselvesdarkenedinpartandstickyallover.RemovethemtotheplatewiththepearsandaddingredientX,yourGorgonzola.
Serves6–8
PEACHESINMUSCAT
TheItalianshaveawayofmakingaspecialdessertoutofunmessed-upsimpleingredients.It’ssomethingtodowiththeirtouch.Imean—takeaffogato,whichisjustascoopofvanillaicecream“drowned”byhavingastronghotcupofespressothrownoverit.Orthere’ssgroppino,whichisascoopofsorbetinaglass,toppedupwithafizzyhitofProsecco.Dessertcanbeentirelystore-boughtandstillfeellikeatreat:YoujustbuyabottleofVinSantoandprovidecantuccinibiscuitstodunkin.
AndIlovethewaytheymakefruitfeelspecialtoo,justbywashinggrapes,cherries,andapricotsandsittingtheminbowlsoficewaterdirectlyonthetable.Thisrecipeisscarcelymorework,andifyoudon’twanttodoanyofitinadvance,thenjustputabottleofMuscatwineonthetableandabowlofpeaches,giveeveryoneasharpknifeandaglass,andletthempourtheirownMuscatandsliceintheirownpeaches.
4ripepeaches1cupsweetMuscatwineorothergooddessertwineheavycreamoricecreamforserving,optional
1Overabowl(tocatchjuices),cuteachpeachintoslices.
2Whenallthepeachesaresliced,pourintheMuscatwineandmakesurethepeachesaremoreorlessfullyimmersed.Coverthebowlwithplasticwrapandrefrigerateforupto6hours;sometimesithelpstobeabletogetstuffdoneinadvance.
3Removethepeachestoaprettyglassbowlortoindividualsmallglassesandserve—stillchilled—withapitcherofheavycreamorsomevanillaicecreamalongside.
Serves6
AMARETTOSYLLABUB
ThisisreallyanAnglo-Italianhybrid:ThesyllabubisentirelyEnglish,thoughtheliqueurusedmakesitItalianintheextreme.Thecrumbledamarettibiscuitsgiveatrifle-likecontrastofsoakedcakeandsoftcream.Utterlydelicious,andwiththemomentsittakestomake,thisissomethingyoucanpulloutanytimeyouwanttoendadinnerpartywithaplomb.
⅓cupAmarettoliqueur2tablespoonssugar1tablespoonlemonjuice1cupheavycream18-ozpackageamarettimorbidi(softalmondmacaroons)
1PourtheAmarettoliqueurintoabowlwiththesugarandlemonjuiceandwhisktomix.
2Whiskintheheavycreamandwhipthismixtureuntilithasthickenedbutisstillsoftandbillowy.
3Crumble2littleamaretticookiesintoeachofthe4glasses(eachwithayieldofabout⅔cup).
4Dividethesyllabubamongtheglassesontopofthecrumbledcookies.
5Crumbleanothermacaroonortwo,andsprinklethisgoldenrubbleoverthetopofalltheglassestogiveafinesprinkleofcrumbsoneach.Servetheremainingamarettialongsidethesyllabub.
Serves4
BUDINODICIOCCOLATO
Thisischocolatepuddingbyanothername,butsomehowitsoundsbetterinItalian.Butfrankly,languageisirrelevanthere:We’retalkingpure,all-encompassingbliss.Whenyoueatitcooled,itislikechocolatesatincreamandalmostshockinginitspleasurableintensity,butIloveit,too,hotandstraightoutofthepanwhenitislikethebesthotchocolateyou’veeverhad,inspoonableform.
1cupwholemilk½cupheavycream⅓cupsugar1tablespooncornstarch⅓cupcocoa2tablespoonsboilingwater2eggyolks1teaspoonvanillaextract2ozdarkchocolate,finelychopped
1Putthekettleontoboilwater,andwarmthemilkandcreamtogethereitherinasaucepanorthemicrowave.
2Putthesugarandcornstarchintoanothersaucepanandsiftinthecocoa.Addthe2tablespoonsofboilingwaterandwhisktoapaste.
3Thenwhiskintheeggyolks,1atatime,followedbythewarmedmilkandcream,andthenthevanillaextract.
4Scrapedownthesidesofyourpanandputitontheheat,cookingandwhiskingforabout3–4minutesuntilthemixturethickens—ifithelps,thinkofaconsistencylikemayonnaise.
5Takeofftheheatandwhiskinthefinelychoppedchocolatebeforepouringinto4smallcupsorglasseseachwithayieldofabout⅔ofacup.
6Coverthetopsofthecupswithplasticwrap,layingitdirectlyontopofthepuddingtostopaskinfromforming,andthenrefrigerateoncetheyarecooler.Makesuretheyarenotstillfridge-coldwhenyouservethem.Youcanaddablobofcreamontopifyoulike.Andseethecookiesonthenextpage.
Serves4
CHOCOLATEMACAROONS
Youdon’thavetoservetheseamarettiscuriwiththeBudinodiCioccolatobutIhadtodosomethingwiththeeggwhitesleftoverfromthepuddingandthisisit.IlovethesemacaroonssomuchthatIgladlymakethemwithoutthatexcuse,though.Theyareheadywithchocolateandgorgeouslychewyand,allinall,dangerouslyaddictive.Luckily(ornot,dependingonyourpointofviewhere)theyarequickandeasytomake.
2eggwhites1½cupspowderedsugar1cupgroundalmonds3tablespoonscocoa
1Preheattheovento400°Fandline2bakingsheetswithbakingparchmentorpreferablySilpat.
2Mixtheeggwhites(unbeaten)withthepowderedsugar,groundalmonds,andcocoauntilyouhaveastickybutcohesivemixture.
3Fillalargebowlwithcoldwateranddipyourhandsinittodampenthembeforerollingthemixtureintolittleballsthesizeofsmallwalnuts.Youwillprobablyhavetoredunkyourhandstokeepwettingthemasyougo.
4Arrangethemacaroon-ballsonthelinedbakingtrays,leavingatleast2inchesbetweenthem,andputintheoventobakefor11minutes.It’shardtotellwhenthey’reready,astheywillseemsquishy,buttheyhardenupalittleastheycool,andanyway,theyshouldbedampwithin;that’swhatmakesthemchewy,sodon’tworrythattheunderneathsofthemacaroonslooksticky.
Makesabout25
Thereissomethingabouttheholidayseasonthatseemstoinstillapiercingfearandquiteunparalleledtremorofexpectationinpeople.Ican’tquiteworkoutwhetherthegreaterpartisdreadorhope—certainlytherearecomponentsofboth—butweseemtofeelthatforthiscrucialperiodwemustsuddenlybecomegreathostsanduntiringchefs,readywithacocktailandafulltableatallhours,athalfanhour’snotice.Thatisthekindofpersonwewanttobe—oh,andunstressed,smilinglyorganized,andunflappabletoo.Canthisbearranged?Uptoapoint.
Strangely,thisisnotthehardesttimeoftheyearforthequickcookatall.Obviously,Ican’tmakeaturkeycookinunder30minutes,butIhavecoveredthatgreatcentralfeastatsomuchlengthbeforethatIthoughtitwisertoconcentrateonthesatelliteareasofstressandrelatedculinaryjuncturepointsanyway.ButIdohaveonequicktipforThanksgivingdinnerasI’mhere,anditisasfollows:Insteadofmakingastuffingfortheturkey,buysomegoodsausagemeat(orIusemyfavoriteCumberlandsausages)fromthebutcherandusingyourhands,wigglesomespacebetweentheskinandthebreastofthebirdandsqueezethesausagemeatinthere.Inotherwords,you’restuffingthetopofthebird(beneaththeskin)ratherthaninsideit.Thencookitattopvolume,sotospeak.Youcanreallyblitzthebird,asthesausagemeatstopsthebreastfromdryingout.Don’tmeantoboast,butIhavegotan18-lb(andthat’sminustheweightofthesausagemeat,mind)turkeycooked—ina475°Foven—intwoandahalfhours.
Butbacktothejobathand:Iwantyoutofeelbetteraboutthebigparties,thelittledinnersthatyousuddenlyfindyourselfgivingwithouthavingquiteintendedtoissuetheinvitation,themealsyouenduphostingforstrayout-of-townersordistantrelatives.
Themaintrick,iftrickitreallybe,istorememberthatabundanceisthekey.Andthemoodofwelcomingplentycanbeboughtwithrelativelylittleeffort.Whatwouldbetiringistotryandthrowapartythataimedtobethenightofathousandcanapés.Mymantrahasalwaysbeen“alotofalittleratherthanalittleofalot.”Inotherwords,choosewhatyouwantandmakealotofthat,ratherthanditheringorfeelingthatyoumustprovideahugearrayandmanychoices,whichwilljustmultiplyyourlaborsand,intheend,becauseyou’llhavelessofeach,itwon’tlookascozilywelcoming.
Asinfood,soindecoration.Idon’tlikegarishness,butIwantwarmth,andI
Asinfood,soindecoration.Idon’tlikegarishness,butIwantwarmth,andItakethetea-lightroute.Thisdoesn’thavetobeexpensive:Ijustput“votivecandle”intotheeBaysearchfieldandthenbatch-buycheap.Onceyou’vegotaroomdottedwithredorpumpkin-coloredshot-glasscandleholders,eachonealight,itdoesn’tmatteriftheycostnexttonothingeach;indeedit’sbetter.Andremember,evenifeachonelookshideousclose-up,theywilllookfineenmasse.Itsoundsstrange,butthat’strue.Uglyflowersarethesame:Theyworkinabundance.Justthink:Abunchofmarigoldsishideous;afieldofthem,impressive.
Andyou’vegotanadvantagewithcandles,asthelighttheygiveoffisalwaysbeautiful.NotthatI’maversetoChristmaslights,either.Ilovethemeverywheresolongasthey’rewhiteanddon’tflicker.Thistimeofyearanywayinvitesexcess,sodon’tworryaboutoverdoinganything,andjustgoforit.Theonlythingthatruinsapartyisanxiety.ButI’mnotgoingtobesoirritatingastotellyouyoudon’thavetoworry:I’mgivingyoutherecipesthatwillmakeyouknowyoudon’thaveto.
ALITTLEBITOFTHEHOLIDAYSPIRIT
Icertainlydon’tthinkyouneedtoofferachoiceofdrinksataparty,exceptthatyoumustprovidebothforthosewhodoanddonotdrinkalcohol,butit’sgoodtohaveafewseasonalcocktailsinmind.TheSnowballhasfallenoutoffavor,Iknow,butit’sapity:Itcouldhardlybemoreseasonalandtasteslikegrown-upicecreamsoda,plusit’sverymucheasiertomakethaneggnog.ChristmasinaGlassisreallywhatitis:ThesmellofthegingerbreadsyrupastheProsecco’sfizzspritzesitthroughtheairisalmostparodicallyfestive.IusetheFrenchsyrup(mentionedearlierinthebook)thatbartendershavedecoratingtheirshelvesandIgetitonline,butnowthatthere’sacoffeeshopatprettymucheverycorner,it’sveryeasytobuythegingerbreadsyruptheyusetodousetheirlattesatthistimeoftheyear.AsforthePomegranateBellini,thisisjustProsecco(orotherdryfizzywhitewineofyourchoice)withpomegranateinplaceofpeachpuree.Ifyoucan’tfindthepomegranatepuree(which,again,Ibuyonline),thendosubstituteitwiththe100percentpomegranateyoucanfindalittlemoreeasily:It’sthinnerandlessintense,somaybeconsideradashofgrenadineforaboost.Donotdecoratewithpomegranateseeds(chokinghazard),butconsideradorningtheservingtraysorbarareawithpomegranatehalves.
Finally,theRougeLimonade,adrinkthatisconsiderednotquitecommeilfautinParis,butmuchlovedinthecountry.Itisreallyjustaspritzermadewithredwine,onlyinplaceofclubsodayouuselemonade.Obviously,don’tusegoodredwine—andthisiswhythiscanbeamajorhelpataparty.Idon’tsayservethesortofwinethatcoulddoubleaspaintstripper,butsomethingprettyroughcouldhaveitsedgesknockedoffwithagoodtop-upoflemonade.It’snotchic,butit’sthirst-quenching—andwonderfully,seasonally,hued.
SNOWBALL
Icecubes1partAdvocaat3partschilledlemonadeSqueezeoflimejuicetotaste
1Fillahighballglasswithice.
2AddtheAdvocaatandthentopupwiththelemonade.
3Spritzinthelimejuicetotaste.
One70clbottle(about3cups)ofAdvocaatshouldprovideforaround14Snowballs
CHRISTMASINAGLASS
4partschilledProseccoorotherfizzydrywhitewine,wellchilled1partgingerbread-flavoredsyrup
1PourtheProseccointoglasses.
2Topwiththescentedsyrup.
One750mlbottleofProseccoshouldyieldabout5glasses
POMEGRANATEBELLINI
1partchilledpomegranatepureeorconcentratedjuice¾partchilledProseccoorotherfizzydrywhitewine
1Pourthepomegranatepureeintoaglass.
2TopwiththeProsecco.
One750mlbottleofProseccoshouldyieldabout6Bellini
ROUGELIMONADEORREDLEMONADE
3partschilledredwine1–2partschilledlemonade
1Pourtheredwineintoaglassortumbler.
2Topwiththelemonadeaccordingtotaste(andqualityofwine),muchlikeyouwouldawhitewinespritzer.
One750mlbottleofredwineshouldyield5or6glasses
MARTINIOLIVES
Apartyhasgottohavebitstopickat,andwhatcouldbebetterthanthese?IgottheideaofMartiniOlives(withoutthemartinis)fromacolleagueofminefromtheNewYorkTimes,DeniseLandis,fromherlovelybook,DinnerforEight.Thesearen’tjustgreattohaveataparty,they’remightyfinetostashinjarsandgiveaspresents.
48-ozjarspimento-stuffedgreenolives(thisgives4cups)¼cupgin(orvodkaifyouprefer)1tablespoonvermouth
1teaspoonchileoil
1Openthejarsanddraintheolives,puttingthemintoabowlwiththegin,vermouth,andchileoil,andgivethemastir.
2Leavetosteepforhalfanhourorsowhileyougetreadyforyourparty.Youcanputanyyouhaveleftoverinajarwithalidforanothercoupleofdays,orindeedlonger,thoughit’sdoubtfulthatwillarise.
Makes4cupsolives
MAPLEPEPPERPECANS
Icannot,justcannotallowmyselftohaveevenoneoftheseasI’msettingthemout,orIknowtherewillbenoneleftfortheparty.They’rebesteatenstillalittlewarm(thoughbecarefulthatthey’renothotoreveryonewillhaveaburnedmouth),thoughstillverygoodcoldand,aswiththeolives,makeagoodpresent,stuffedintoajarandtiedwitharibbonorsomesuch.
Iliketheafterhitoffireyougetfromthecayennepepper;ifyouwantthesetohavealittlemoreuniversalappeal,eitherreduceto½teaspoonorsubstitutemildpaprika.
4tablespoonsbutter½cupmaplesyrup1½teaspoonstablesalt1teaspooncayennepepper3⅓cupspecanhalves
1Meltthebutterwiththesyrup,salt,andcayennepepperinapanovergentleheat.
2Addthepecansandstirtomix,thenleavethemontheheatfor2–3minutes.SpreadthepecansonaSilpatsheetorpieceofaluminumfoiltocool.
3Arrangethestickypecansinbowlstoserve.
Makes3⅓cups
PARTYPOPCORN
Thisisaveryspeedy,almostcomedicallyso,partyeatthatisalso,obligingly,ratherthriftytomake(thusallowingfortheextravaganceofthepecanshere).It’sreallyquitezingyandpackedwithflavorandmightalarmanypassingchildexpectingmoreregularsugaryfare.Ifindthatit’shugelypopular,whichiswhyImakeasubstantialbatchofit.
2tablespoonsvegetableoil1cup(unpopped)popcorn4tablespoonsbutter2teaspoonsgroundcinnamon2teaspoonsgroundcumin2teaspoonsgroundpaprika4teaspoonstablesalt4teaspoonssugar
1Puttheoilintothebiggestpanyouhavewithalidoverhighheat,addthepopcorn,andquicklyputonthelid.
2Letthepopcornpop,shakingthepaneverynowandthentokeepthekernelsmoving.Youwillhearit,butdon’tbetemptedtolook,unlessyouwanttogetshotat,andonceithasstoppedpopping—acoupleofminutesorso—takeitofftheheat.
3Meltthebutterwiththespices,inanotherpan,salt,andsugar,thenpouritoverthepopcornandputeverythingintoalargepapershoppingbag.Foldthetopovertoholdinthepopcorn.
4Shake,shake,andshakethebagagaintomixthepopcornandgetitthoroughlycoatedinthespicybutter.
5Arrangeinseveralpartybowls.
Makes12cups
COCKTAILSAUSAGES
Ifyouwanttohavesomethinghottopassaroundonatray,thencocktailsausagesarewhatyou’reafter.There’snothingfiddlytomake,nothingtogorightorwrong,andeveryonelovesthem.Thesearenotjustanycocktailsausages:Thesesameoil,honey,andsoygivethemasweet-savorystickinessthatisprettywellimpossibletoresist.
2¼lbs(75innumber)cocktailsausages½cuphoney2tablespoonssesameoil2tablespoonssoysauce
1Preheattheovento425°F.
2Separatethesausagesiftheyarelinkedandarrangetheminalarge,shallowroastingpan.
3Whisktogetherthehoney,oil,andsoysauceandpouroverthesausages,thenuseyourhands—oracoupleofspatulas—tomoveeverythingaroundinthepansothatallthesausagesareslicked.
4Roastfor25–30minutes;givethemashuffleabouthalfwaythroughcookingifyouhappentobeneartheoven.
Makes75cocktailsausages
HALLOUMIBITES
Thesearemessytoeat—butthenjustabouteverythingissofar—andareprobablybestaspartofatable,ratherthanasatrayboundsnack.Ifyouhavethepastaparkedsomewhere,perhapssitthisalongside.Theygoverywelltogether,andeaterscanforkupeacheasilyenough.ButIwouldn’tcounttheseoutasfingerfood,solongasyoudoleoutenoughpapernapkins.However,sincethesausagesprobablymakebabywipesaconsiderationanyway,Iwouldn’tworryunduly.
¼cupgarlicoil3tablespoonschoppedparsley2tablespoonlimejuicegoodgrindingofpepper38-ozblockshalloumicheese,drained
1Combinetheoil,parsley,limejuice,andpepperinalargeshallowdish.
2Slicethedrainedhalloumiinto¼-inch-widepieces,andthencuteachsliceinhalfagain.Don’tworryifbitssplinterasyoucut.
3Heatadryskilletanddry-frytheslicesofcheeseuntilgoldenonbothsides.Thisshouldtakeonlyaminuteorsoinahotpan.
4Putthefriedhalloumiintotheshallowdishofotheringredientsasyougo,andthenturnthehalloumiabouttocoateachpiecebeforeturningintoaservingdish.
Serves10–12aspartofsupper,moreasacanapé
FESTIVEFUSILLI
Youcanthinkofthiseitherasasoaking-upend-of-partymealforthehardcorewhomanagetostaythecourseorafestivebutunfussysupperyoucangettogetherquicklyaftersomeseasonalget-togetherorouting.Thehalloumigoeswellforeitheroccasion,butthepastaisdefinitelybigandboldenoughtobeastand-alone.Shouldyoubeluckyenoughtohaveanyleftover,knowthatthisisasuperbpost-partybreakfastforkedstraightfromacontainerinthefridge.
By“sunblush”tomatoes,Imeanthoseonesthatarehalfwaybetweenfreshanddriedandcomesoakedinseasonedoilfromspecialtyandgourmetshops;itistheirname,notmine.
4cupssunblushtomatoesinseasonedoil⅓cupvodka2teaspoonskoshersaltor1teaspoontablesalt2teaspoonssugar2lbsfusilliorothershortpastaofyourchoice1cupmascarponecheese⅔cupchoppedcurlyparsleyflakedParmesan,toserve
1Putahugepotofwaterontoboilforthepasta.
2Takeoutabout1cupofthetomatoesandchopthemfinely.Iusemymezzalunahere,asyoucanreallymulchthem.
3Putthechoppedsunblushtomatoesintoabowlwiththeothertomatoes,alongwiththevodka,salt,andsugar.Leavethemtosteepwhileyoucookthefusilli.
4Cookthepastaaccordingtothepackageinstructions,thendrainandputbackinthepanwiththemascarpone,mixingwelloverlowtomediumheat.
5Tipinthetomatomixtureandhalfthechoppedparsley,mixingwelltogether.
6Pourintoabowlandsprinkleovertheremainingparsley.ServewiththeParmesan.
Serves10–12
SEAFOODPOT
InFranceandItaly,andacrossmuchofEurope,seafoodistraditionallyeatenonChristmasEveanditisaverygoodwayofembarkingonthemeatfeastthatistofollow.Butyoudon’thavetosticktothecustom,justkeepthisinmindforaveryquick,warming,andyetelegantsupper.Afennelsaladbeforeorafterwouldbelovely,butyouneednomorethanjustsomebreadtodunkwith.AddingtheHolidayHotCake(seehere)asadessertwouldfinishtheeveningoffwithgusto,andinsuitablyfestivefashion.
1lb10ozcherrystoneorlittleneckclams1lb10ozmonkfishfillet1lb10ozsalmonfillet1lb10ozcleanedsquid2tablespoonsbutterdropofvegetableoil½cupwhitewine¼cupPedroXiménezorotherrichdarksherry2tablespoonschoppedchives,optional
1Soaktheclamsinabowlofcoldwater,leavethemforabout5minuteswhileyouslicethefish,thendiscardtheopenorcrackedclamsanddraintherest.
2Cutthefishinto½-inchslices,andalsoslicethesquidintothesamewidthrings.
3Meltthebutterandoilinalargepotorpanwithalid,thenoverhighheattossinthefishandsquidandstirthemarounduntiltheybegintogoopaque.
4Addtheclamsandwhitewine,andclamponthelid,shakingthepotovertheheat,andletitcookforabout3minutes.
5Liftthelid,avoidingthesteam,andpourinthesherry.Coveragainandleaveforanother3minutesorso,shakingaboutagaineverynowandthen.
6Servetheseafoodinthepot,sprinklingoverthechoppedchives,ifpreferred.
Serves6–8
BROCCOLIANDSTILTONSOUP
Atthistimeofyear,it’sgoodtohaveathickwarmingsoupatyourfingertipsandthisisplentyseasonalintothebargain.Thisiswhatmakesiteasy:Imakeitfromfrozenbroccoli;Iusefrozenorganicbroccoli,ifthatmakesyoufeelanybetter.Actually,there’snoreasontofeelbadonanycount.Thisisbetterwhenmadewithfrozen,aswellasmakingitmoreconvenientasanimpromptustandby.Thebroccoliisfrozenfresh,whereasthedroopingheadsatthebottomofmyfridgeinevitablyendupbrassyandbrassic.Moreover,atthistimeofyearmyfridgeistoofullasitis,andIneedthehelpofhavingsomecrucialingredientsstashedinthefreezer.
Thisisalsoahelpfulwayofturningplaincoldslicedturkeyintoawarmingmeal.
3tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil6scallions,finelychopped2¼lbsfrozenbroccoli2teaspoonsdriedthyme5cupshotvegetablestock(fromconcentrateorbouilloncube)1½cupscrumbledorchoppedStiltoncheesefreshlygroundpepper
1longredchilepepper,deseededandfinelychopped,optional
1Putthegarlicoilinalargepanovermediumheatandaddtheslicedscallions,cookingforacoupleofminutes.
2Addthefrozenbroccoliandthymeandstirontheheatforaminuteorso.
3AddthehotvegetablestockandthecrumbledStiltonandbringtoabubble,thenclampthelidonandcookfor5minutes.
4Liquidizeinablender(orfailingthat,afoodprocessor)—inbatches—thenpourbackinthepanandheatifithascooledtoomuchwhileliquidizing;addpeppertotaste.
5ScatterwithaChristmasconfettiofredchilediceoneachserving,ifyoufeel
likeit.
Makes9cups,enoughfor4asasupperor8asastarter
BUTTERNUTSQUASHWITHPECANSANDBLUECHEESE
Thishasmanystringstoitsbow:ItservesasavegetarianalternativetotheThanksgivingturkey;itgussiesupaplateofcoldleftoverturkey;itaddstherightbalanceofmellowwarmthandtangtoanyplainwintrydish;itisagoodwholemealondayswhenyoujustfeelfleshedout.
4½lbsbutternutsquash3tablespoonsoliveoil6stalksfreshthymeor½teaspoondriedthyme1cuppecans1cupcrumbledRoquefortorotherbluecheese
1Preheattheovento425°F.
2Halvethesquash,leavingtheskinon,andscoopouttheseeds,thencutinto1-inchcubes;youdon’tneedtobeprecise,justkeepthepiecesuniformlysmall.
3Putintoaroastingpanwiththeoilandstripabout4stalksofthymeoftheirleaves,sprinklingoverthebutternutsquash.Ifyoucan’tgetanyfreshthyme,sprinkleoverdried.Roastintheovenforabout30–45minutesoruntiltender.
4Onceoutoftheoven,removethesquashtoabowlandscatteroverthepecansandcrumbleoverthecheese,tossingeverythingtogethergently.
5Checktheseasoningandaddthelastcoupleofstalksofthyme,tornintosmallsprigs,todecorate.
Serves6–8
TURKEYTONNATO
Thisisaseasonalversion(andspeediertoboot)oftheItalianvitellotonnato:Insteadofpoachingvealandthenmakingmayonnaisewithtuna,Ifanoutsomeslicesofcoldturkey,leftoverfromthefeast,ontoaplateandquicklywhizupthetunamayonnaiseusingreallygoodtuna—theoneIusecomesinajarandisfromthebellyofthebeast,called“ventresca.”Eventhoughmymother’sshadewouldcursemeforbuying“fresh”mayonnaiseratherthanmakingmyown,that’swhatIdohere.Iwouldn’twantanywhitegloopoutofajar,though.
Thisisgorgeouswithawintrysaladofshreddedradicchio;thebitternessoffsetstherichnessofthepinky-buff–coloredmayonnaisedressing.Ifyou’vegottime,ahotbakedpotatoalongsideisalso,strangely,good.
1cupfreshmayonnaise,fromaspecialtyshoporgourmetstore1cupdrainedbest-qualitytuna⅓cupsourcream½teaspoonpaprika
4teaspoonslemonjuice1–1¼lbscoldslicedturkeybreast8anchovyfillets,eachcutinhalflengthwise1tablespoondrainedcapers
1Putthemayonnaise,tuna,sourcream,lemonjuice,andpaprikaintoablender,andwhiztomakeasauce.
2Arrangetheturkeyslicesonalargeplatter,andthenpouroverthetonnatosaucetocovermostoftheturkeyslices.
3Arrangetheslicedanchovyfilletsinacrisscrosspattern,orhoweverpleasesyou,andscatterthecapersaboutontopaswell.
Serves6
SPICEDPEACHES
Forme,thisisanabsoluteHolidayMustand,aswithsomanygoodthingsinmylife,comestomefrommysister-in-arms,HettiePotter.I’veusedjarredpeaches,I’veusedcannedpeaches,andithonestlydoesn’tmatterwhich,butI’mafraidyouhavetoresistthehealthierpeachescannedinfruitjuiceratherthansyrup.Ifyoucanfindonlyslices,nothalves,sobeit.Thisisabeautifulcondimenttoeatwithroastham,hotorcold,andIloveitwithcheese,too.Itmakesthekitchenfeellikeaproperholidaykitchen—andit’saveryeasypresenttowhipupforpeople,too,beautifulinold-fashionedglassjars.
214-ozcanspeachhalvesinsyrup1tablespoonricevinegarorwhitewinevinegar2shortcinnamonsticks
1½-inchpiecefreshginger,peeledandslicedthinlyintorounds½teaspooncrusheddriedchiles
½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt¼teaspoonwholeblackpeppercorns3cloves
1Emptythecansofpeachesintoasaucepanwiththeirsyrup.
2Addthevinegar,cinnamon,slicedginger,chiles,salt,wholepeppercorns,andcloves.
3Bringthepantoaboil,andletitboilforaminuteorso,thenturnofftheheatandleaveitinthepantokeepwarm.
4Servethepeacheswithahotham,lettingpeopletakeapeachhalfeachandsomeofthespicedjuice.Anyleftoverscan(andshould)bestoredinajarandtheneatencoldwithcoldham.
Servesapprox.8peoplewithahamroast
CHOCOLATEPISTACHIOFUDGE
Iamwillingtobelievethataconfectionerwouldn’tcallthisproperfudge,butittastesdivine,andyouwon’tneedasugarthermometerorhavetotestforfrighteningsoftorhardballstages.Ilikethisbestmadeslightlylessexpress,butwithnogreatereffort,bystashingitinthedeepfreeze.Itgoesreallygrainyandfudgythisway.IfI’mnothandingthisstraightroundatapartyorwithcoffeeafterdinner,Imightkeephalfinmyfreezer,andputtheotherhalfinaboxortwoforChristmaspresents.Makesuretheystaycold,though.
12ozsemisweetchocolate,chopped114-ozcancondensedmilkpinchofsalt1cupshelledpistachios2tablespoonsbutter
1Meltthechoppedchocolate,condensedmilk,butterandsaltinaheavy-bottomedpanonlowheat.
2Putthenutsintoafreezerbagandbashthemwitharollingpinuntilbrokenupintobothbigandlittlepieces.
3Addthenutstothemeltedchocolateandcondensedmilkandstirwelltomix.
4Pourthismixtureintoa9-inch-squarealuminumfoilpan,smoothingthetop.
5Letthefudgecoolandthenrefrigerateuntilset.Youcanthencutintosmallpiecesapproximately1¾by1¾inchesinsize.Cutting7x7linesinthepantogive64piecesbestachievesthis.
6Oncecut,youcankeepitinthefreezer,noneedtothaw;justeatrightaway.
Makes64piecesofrichfudge
QUICKLYSCALEDMONTBLANC
Thisisapared-down,lazyperson’sMontBlanc,thetraditionaldessertofchestnuts,chocolate,andcream.Thinkofitasgastro-geography:Crumbledchocolateisthesoil;chestnutpureethemountain;creamthesnow;thefinalscatteringofmeringue,freshsnowfall.Soundswhimsical,butwhensomethingtasteslikethisyoudon’tcareaboutanythingelse.
Icannothavetoomuchchestnutatthistimeofyear,andpleaseconsiderdoingavariantoftheNutellaPancakeshere,replacingtheNutellawithsweetenedchestnutpureeandtheFrangelicoliqueurwithrum.Youcouldsubstitutesomebrokenpiecesofmarronsglacésforthechoppedhazelnuts,butyoucouldjustaseasilyleavethemoutaltogether.
4ozsemisweetchocolate2cupsheavycream2meringuenests(approx.3inchesindiametereach),fromapacket11-lbcansweetenedchestnutpureeorspread,suchasClementFaugier
1Chopthechocolatewithamezzaluna,sharpknife,orinafoodprocessoruntilyouhaverubblyshards.Dividethechocolateamong6smallishglasses—withabout½cupcapacity.
2Lightlywhipthecream,andcrumbleandfoldthroughoneofthemeringues.
3Dollopthechestnutpureeorspread,ontopofthechocolaterubble.Thenspoonoverthecreamandmeringuemixture,crumblingalittlemoremeringueoverthetopofeachone.
Serves6
MINCEMEATPARCELSWITHBOURBONBUTTER
Thisisnotatimeofyearwhenyouwanttoforgetthesweetstuff,andthisisafabulous,fast-forwardmincepie.Youbuyacoupleofpackagesofready-rolledpuffpastry,unfurlonesheet,dotwithmincemeat,coverwiththeotherunrolledsheetandstampoutsquareswithasmallflutedcutter.Thentheygointotheoven(thoughtheycouldsitinthefridgefirst,werethattobehelpfultoyou).Ifyouhavesomeleftoverafterthey’vebeencooked,don’tworry,justreheatthemina350°Fovenforabout15minutes.
Theydospilloutlikeaccordionssometimesonbaking,buttheyjustneedtobepressedbackintoshape,whichisbotheasyandsatisfying.Oh,andthebourbonbutterisnotanoptionalextra:Itisareasonforlivinginandofitself.Allyoudoiscream1stickbutterwith1cuppackedsoftlightbrownsugarinamixer,processor,orbyhand,andgraduallybeatin2–3tablespoonsbourbon,totaste.I’vemadealot,becauseit’sverygoodtohavearoundatthistimeofyear,andnotjustonChristmascakeorpudding.It’salsoworthbearinginmindforspreadingoveranysortoffruitthatyoumightwanttoblisterunderahotbroiler.Oritmayprofitablybeeatenstraightfromaspoon.
One17.2-ozpackage(two9½x9½-inchsheets)ready-rolledpuffpastry,thawediffrozen⅓cupsuperiormincemeat1egg
1Preheattheovento425°F.Carefullyunfurlthepastrysheetsandlaythemoutflat.
2Usinga1½-inch-squarecutter(ourswasfluted),outlinelightly(don’tcutthrough)oneofthesheetswithsquarescoveringthepastryandliningthemupneatlyinagridwithnogaps.
3Putscant½teaspoonsofmincemeatintothemiddleofeachsquare.
4Beattheeggandthenwithyourfinger,outlinetheedgesofthesquareswithaneggyline.
5Coverthesheetofpastrywiththeothersheet,placingitdirectlyontop.Pressdownattheedges,andthenrundownthesidesofeachsquarewithyourfingerstoformaroughoutlineofbumpyfilledsquares.
6Usingthecutteragain,thistimecutrightthroughthepastrytomakeravioli-typeparcels.Makesuretheyaresealedattheedgesbeforeplacingtheparcelsonabakingsheetspacedslightlyapart.
7Bakefor15minutes.AsImentioned,theyarelikelytoopenoutlikeaccordions,butdon’tpanic.Onceoutoftheovenyoucansqueezethemgingerlybacktogetherwiththegoldenlidsontop.
8Letthemcoolonaracktoabearablewarmbeforeservingwiththebourbonbutter.
Makes35
HOLIDAYHOTCAKEWITHEGGNOGCREAM
Thisisaholiday-spicedversionofthosemagicpuddingcakes,whichlooklikesomesortofjokeasyoumakethem,pouringboilingwateroverbatter,butwhenthey’vebeencooked,turnouttobeadmittedlyunhandsomecakewiththicksauceunderneath.Looksarenoteverything,andtheginger-butterscotchflavorofcakeandsaucemakesthisaseductivewinner.Andthat’sevenbeforewe’vegottentotheeggnogcream.ThisisamiracletoppingthatyouwillwanttoputonChristmaspudding,hotchocolate,anycakeorpie,orinfactanythingandeverything.Iseenoearthlyreasonwhynotto.
2cupswater1cupflour1½cupslightbrownsugar1teaspoonbakingpowder2teaspoonsgroundginger2teaspoonspumpkinpiespice½cupwholemilk¼cupvegetableoil1egg6teaspoonsbutter
1Preheattheovento425°Fandplaceabakingsheetontheovenshelf.Putthewaterontoboil.
2Mixtheflour,½cupofthesugar,thebakingpowder,1teaspoonofthegroundginger,1teaspoonofthepumpkinpiespice,themilk,oil,andeggtogether.
3Putintoagreased9-inchroundbakingdishabout2¼inchesdeep.
4Inanotherbowl,mixtogethertheremainingcupofsugarwiththeremainingteaspoonseachofgroundgingerandpumpkinpiespice,andsprinkleoverthebatterinitsbakingdish.Dotthebutteroverthebatterandpourovertheboilingwater.Trustme.
5Putonthebakingsheetinthepreheatedovenfor30minutes.Letstandfor10minutesbeforeserving,andmakesureyouscoopoutthesaucebeneaththecakeinthedish.
Serves6–8
EGGNOGCREAM
1½cupsheavycream½cupAdvocaat
1PutthecreamandAdvocaatinabowl.
2Usinganelectricmixer,whipuntilthickbutstillsoft.
3Servewiththeholidayhotcake,orindeedanyfestivedessert.
Makesapprox.2cups
MARSHMALLOWCRISPYSQUARES
You’dthinkthiswasdesignedtokeepthechildrenhappy,andwhilethat’sOKwithme,adultsfinditparticularlyirresistible.Butifyoucan’tappealtothechildwithinatthistimeofyear,whencanyou?
IfIcanfindatubofediblediscoglitterinoneofmycupboards,Isprinklesomeonwhilethemarshmallowisstillsticky,butithasacertainpearly,luminescentappealasitis.
It’salsobeautifulcutintosquaresandpierced,eachpiecewithawhitebirthday-cakecandleandarrangedonastand.Alternatively,youcouldturnthisintomoreofapickabletreat,bycuttingtheslabintoteeny-tinysquaressopeoplecanpoponestraightintotheirmouth.
3tablespoonsbutter6cupsminimarshmallows6cupscrispyricecerealedibleglitterorsprinkles,optional
1Meltthebutterinalargesaucepanoverlowheat.
2Addthemarshmallowsandcookgentlyuntiltheyarecompletelymeltedandblended,stirringconstantly.
3Takeofftheheatandimmediatelyaddthecereal,mixinglightlyuntilwellcoated.
4Pressthemixtureintoagreased13x9-inchpan;youmayhavetoputonlatexglovesandpressitdownintothecorners,asitwillbeverysticky.Flattenthetopandthensprinkleovertheedibleglitterorsprinklesifsoinclined.
5Letthemarshmallowcrispysquarescoolcompletelyinthepanandthencuttheminto24squares.
Makes24squares
STEEPEDCHRISTMASFRUITS
Isupposethisisthelazyperson’sChristmaspudding,onlythatmakesitsoundlikesomesortofalso-ran,anditisinactualfactrathermoreofarewardforthetime-squeezedandexhausted.Well,wedeserveone.Ialwaysusedtosteepdriedfruitsinbrandy,thenImovedontorum,andnowI’mfirmlysettledintoaperiodwithPedroXiménez.Ifyouhaven’tevertriedthisrich,dark,raisinysherry,thenIbegofyou,doso.Andalthoughthesuggestionofdollopingdryfruitssteepedinitisalreadyashortcut,Icanofferanevenshortershortcut,whichissimplytopourthissherrystraightoversomevanillaicecreamforaninstant,perfectdessert.
MysisterHoratiaandIhaveastrictno-presentspolicyforChristmas(ourbirthdaysarebothrightafter)andgivingherajarofliqueur-steepedfruitslikethisismywayofgettingaroundtheban.
5cupsmixedluxurydriedfruits(amixtureofraisins,sultanas,currants,andcandiedcherries)
1¾cupsPedroXiménezsherry,orotherrichdarksherry,plussome
1Tipthedriedfruitintoa6-cuppreservingjar,orusemanysmallerjars.
2PourinthePedroXiménez;theliquidwillmorethancoverthefruit,andovertimethefruitwillswellwiththesherry,growingtofillthejar.
3Leavethefruitsforatleastaweek,althoughifyouweredesperateovernightwouldjustaboutdo.Ineithercase,justmakesureyoukeeptoppingupwithsherryastheliquidgetsabsorbed.
4Eatwithvanillaicecream,orhoweveryouwant.
Makes6cups
SEASONALFRUITSALAD
Thistimeofyearquitereasonablyenoughhasmeforagingaboutmydéclassédrinkscabinet.I’vealreadyfoundverygooduseformyAdvocaatandnowIcan’thelpreachingfortheTuaca.ThisisaTuscanliqueur,ultra-Christmassy,ratherlikeasweetbrandywithvanillaandorange;thinkpanettoneinliqueurform.Idon’texpecteveryonetokeepsomeathome,thoughIboughtmineeasilyenough(tooeasilysomemightsay)andtherewouldbeworsethingsthanhavingthisaroundthehousejustfordrinkingduringthefestiveseason.ButyoucanreplaceitwithamixtureofbrandyandCointreauorsomesweetstickyorangeliqueurifthat’seasier.Iwouldn’truleoutjustplainbrandy,butifyouuseit,doublethesugarwhenmakingthesyrup.
Aswiththesteepedfruitshere,theExpresspointofthisisn’tthatitcanbealldoneanddustedinfiveminutesflat—somelongersteepingisadvised—butthatitisNOEFFORTWHATSOEVER.Thisalwaysmatters,butitmattersnowmorethanever.
6satsumasorclementines1cupTuaca,oramixtureofbrandyandCointreau½cupsugar½cuppomegranateseeds
1Peelthesatsumasorclementinesandputthesegmentsintoabowl.
2PourovertheTuacaandleaveforacoupleofhoursorovernight.
3Drainthefruit,andthenputthesugarintoasmallpanwiththeTuaca.Stirtodissolvethesugar,andthenbringtoaboilanddonotstiragainatall,butletitboilfor5minutes.
4Letthesyrupcoolslightly,andthenpourbackoverthesatsumaorclementinesegments.Addthepomegranateseedsandtumbletomix.
Serves6–8
HOTTODDY
Althoughit’struethisistheseasonofgoodwill,itisalsotheseasonofcoldsandchills,andsoitisonlyfairtoendwithsomethingtotaketheedgeoffandgenerallyde-sniffleanduplift.
¼cupbourbon(orrumifyouprefer)¼cupwater1tablespoonhoney1teaspoonlemonjuicesmallparingoflemonzest1clove
1Inasmallpot,pourthebourbon,water,honey,andlemonjuiceandputontheheat.
2Pareashavingoflemonzest,studwithaclove,anddropinthepan.
3Wheneverything’swarm,pourintoaglassanddrink.
Serves1
Igetasensethateveryonebelievestheretobesomesecretpantryrulesthat,onceapplied,meanyouneverhavetogoshoppingagainandcancookanythingandeverythingwithoutamoment’sthought.Itjustisn’tso,andcouldn’tbeso.Whatallrecipeshaveincommonisthatyouhavetogoshoppingforthem,andwhethertheingredientsrequiredarereconditeoruninspiringlyeveryday,doesn’tmakeadifference.Thatisstatingtheobvious,butIfeelit’snecessary.
Ofcourse,youcankeepanawfullotonhand,andIdo.Butyouhavetomaintainabalancebetweenhavingenoughfoodtokeepyoufromhavingtogoshoppingeveryday,butnotsomuchthatyourcupboardsaresaggingwiththeweightofcansyouhardlyeverneed.Assomeonewhohasaterriblehoardinginstinct,Iknowhowuselessafullcupboardcanturnouttobe.
Forthetruthis,youdon’twantadietmadeoffoodthatcanbekeptindefinitely.Andevenifyoudid,itwouldn’tbegoodforyou.IliketoknowthatI’vegotthewherewithaltomakepastaandsauceforthechildrenwithoutashoppingexpedition;IliketoknowthatifIbuyaroastingchicken,I’vegotsomewhitebeanstomash,alongwiththegarlicortruffleoiltoturnitfromblahtobrilliant;Iliketoknowthatifsomeonedropsinunexpectedly,IcanconstructsomesortofdessertIhadnoplantocookhitherto,butanymoreandIfearIamnotfillingapantrybutbuildingabunker.
IcancertainlygiveanindicationofwhatIthink’shelpfultokeeponhand;mostoftheseingredientshavealreadymadetheirpresencefeltthroughoutthebook.Afterall,it’simpossibletohavesomanyquickandeasyrecipeswithoutagreatdealofrelianceonthepantryonaneverydaybasis.
Mostofmyshortcutsinvolveinfusedoils,withgarlic-infusedoilintoppositionandvegetableoilsuitableforawokthenextmostregularlyused,chileoilcominginthird,butstillmostdefinitelyearningaplaceonthepodium.Iamlazyenoughtobehappytobuythem,butifyouwanttomakeyourown,it’snothard.For2cupsofregularoliveoil,chopup8garlicclovesandletitallsteepfor48hoursbeforestrainingintoabottle(withafunnel,oryou’llwasteyourpreciouswork);sothat’sthegarlicoil.FortheoilIliketouseforwokorotherquickcooking,don’tuseoliveoilbutrather1¾cupssunflowerorothervegetableoil,¼cupoftoastedsesameoil,4slicedclovesofgarlic,anda2-inchpieceofslicedgingerstrainedafterthe48hours’steeping;forchileoil,use2cupsvegetableoilandchopup4hotredchiles,andletthemsit,seedsandall,intheoilbeforestrainingafterthe48hoursaswiththeotheroils.Youcanpretty
theoilbeforestrainingafterthe48hoursaswiththeotheroils.Youcanprettywellflavoranyoilasyouwish,andalthoughyoudon’t,strictlyspeaking,havetostrainoutthebits,assolongastheyareimmersedinoil,theyshouldn’tgooff;Ifinditeasiertodoitatthebeginningthanhavetothinkaboutitagain.
Ialwayskeepabarrageofbeansandotherlegumesinthehouse:ThismeansIhavethewherewithalforavegetable,astarter-salad,asouporproteinfornon-meateaters.Ithinkit’simportanttousethefreezerasanextensionofthepantry,too.AndIdon’tjustmeanasarepositoryofprepareddishesthatcanbethawed,butforasmanyvegetablesaspossible.Don’tsniff:Thevegetablesinyourdeepfreezearelikelytohavefarmorenutrientsthantheveglyinghopefullyatthebottomofyourrefrigerator.
Icouldgoon,butIdon’twanttobeprescriptiveaboutwhatyoushouldorcouldkeepinyourfridgeandonyourshelves,asjustwrittenasalist,it’slargelyunhelpful.ButtherecipesthatfollowprovidehonestguidanceastowhatIthinkcangetyououtofajamwhenyou’vegotpeopletofeedonlittleornonotice.Goodluck!
MYTHREEFAVORITEDRESSINGS
It’snothardtomakeadressingeverytimeyouwantasalad—andthere’snothingwrongwithjustaspritzoflemon,ashakeofsalt,andadrizzleoffabulousoilstraightontotheleavesinthebowl—butItendtokeepmythreemostused,mostlovedshakenupinjarsaboutthekitchen.Idon’tkeeptheminthefridgebutnodoubtthehealthandsafetypolicewouldtellmeIhaveto.
Iusethesenotjustfortheobvious,butalsoasagoodwayofspritzingupplainboiledorsteamedvegetables,andtheycanalsoserveasmarinades,thoughI’ddilutewithmoreoilratherthanapplythemstraightinthatinstance.
GOLDENHONEYMUSTARDDRESSING
Thisiswonderfulonanysalad,butparticularlygoodonbitterleavessuchasendiveorradicchio.Ifyoucan’tgetrapeseedoil,thedressingwillbelessgolden,butanyoilofyourchoicewilldo.
¼cupDijonmustard2tablespoonshoney⅓cuplemonjuice1cuprapeseedoil1teaspoonkoshersaltor½teaspoontablesalt
Putalltheingredientsintoajamjar,makesurethelid’sonfirmly,andshakelikemad.
Makes1cup
ANCHOVYREDWINEDRESSING
Again,thisisgoodonrobustbitterleaves,butactsasagloriouscontrasttothesoftsweetnessofgrilledpeppers.Ikeeppackagesofchar-grilledpeppersinthefreezer,whichIroastfromfrozenandthendouseinthis.
8anchovyfillets¼cupredwinevinegar¼cupgarlic-infusedoil¾cupoliveoil
1Putalloftheingredientsintoablender,andwhiztomakethedressing.
2Pourintoajamjarandputonthelidtostore.
Makes1cup
WASABILIMEDRESSING
Thisbeautifulgreendressingpacksarealpunch:Iloveitonwatercressandavocadosaladand,indeed,onanythingthatisservedwithsomethingfairlyplain,whenyouwelcomethebuzz.
3tablespoonslimejuice¼cuppeanutoil1tablespoonwasabipastefromatube½teaspoonkoshersaltor¼teaspoontablesalt
Putalloftheingredientsintoajamjar,andagainshaketomix,rememberingtoputthelidonfirmlyfirst.
Makes⅔cup
REDPEPPERHUMMUS
Youknowthosedayswhenyouhadnoideayouwerehavingpeoplefordinnerandthenthatphonecallcomesmidafternoon?Well,thisisthequicklyassembledfirstcoursethatcanturnaplainroastchickenoranythingelseyouthinkyoucanstretchforfourpeoplewithoutmucheffort,intoadinnerparty.Andactually,wheneveryouhavetocookwithouttimeforplanning,Ithinkaroastchickenisnearlyalwaysthemaincourseyouneed:It’smucheasiertocomeupwithfrillsforbeforeandafterandalongsidethantoconstructafancydinnerpartydishatthelastminute.
Thiscanbedollopedontocrostini(andyoucanbuybabytoastsreadymadeforthepurposeinItalianmarkets)oreatenasadipanditevenservesasaratherintriguing,gorgeouslyhuedsauceforplaingrilledmeats.
114-ozcanchickpeas112-ozjarroastedredpeppers2tablespoonscreamcheese2tablespoonsgarlic-infusedoil1teaspoonlimejuice
1teaspoonpaprikasalt
1Drainthechickpeasandpeppersandputthemintoafoodprocessor.
2Addthecreamcheese,oil,limejuice,andpaprika.
3Whiztoahummus-likepuree,andthenaddsaltandperhapsmorelimejuiceaccordingtotaste.
Makes2cups
GOLDENGOATCHEESE
It’salwaysworthkeepingyourownbreadcrumbsaround(Ihavebagsoftheminthefreezer)butIamatotalconverttothewayofpanko,whichistheJapanesebreadcrumbmixyoucanbuyinpackagesandthen,onceopened,leaveinthefreezertousejustastheyare;youneverneedtothawthem.
Whatmakesthisrecipearealpantrystandbyisthatthelittlediscsoffreshgoatcheese,whichcomevacuumpacked,haveanunbelievablylonguse-bydate,soyoucankeepthemforemergenciesandbringoutsomethingreallyveryimpressivewhentheoccasiondemands.
Ifyoufrythecrumb-coatedcheeseitwillgoadeepergold,buttheovenmethodrequireslessofyou;it’syourchoice.
1egggoodgrindingoffreshpepper½cuppankobreadcrumbs41-ozroundsoffreshgoatcheese
1Preheattheovento425°F.
2Beattheegginawidebowlwiththepepper,andputthebreadcrumbsintoawideshallowdish.
3Dipthegoatcheeseinthepepperyeggandthenpressintothebreadcrumbsfirmly.Youwillneedtoturnthecheeseoverandpressontheothersidetocoatevenly;pressalittleonthesidesaswell.
4Sitthebreadedgoatcheeseonabakingsheetandcookfor10minutes,bywhichtimethecheesewillhavebecomegooeyinsidebutwillstillholditsshape.Youcanalsofrythese,inwhichcase,heatapanwithenoughoiltonearlycoverthecheesesastheyfry.Oncetheoilishot,theywillonlyneedaminuteorsooneachside.Drainonpapertowels.
Makes4
LENTILANDWALNUTSALAD
Thereisnoneedtoservethiswiththegoatcheese,butthepairingcertainlymakesforaspecialstarterwithouttoomuchado.
114-ozcanorganicPuylentils(readycooked)½cupwalnutpieces¼cupchoppedchives4teaspoonswalnutoil2teaspoonssherryvinegar½teaspoonkoshersalt
1Drainandrinsethelentilsandputtheminabowlwiththewalnutsandchives.
2Whisktogethertheoil,vinegar,andsalt,thendressthesalad,stirringwellandcheckingtheseasoning.
Serves2or4withthegoatcheese
SALADENIÇOISE
Everyoneseemstohaveaverystrongopinionastowhatshouldorshouldnotgointoasaladeniçoise,soletmetellyoufromtheoutset,Ihavenodesiretoenterthefray.IputinwhatIhaveathomefrom,broadly,theacceptedcanon,butnotnecessarilyeverything.Sincethetomatoeswegetmostlydon’thavealotofflavor,Itendtousethosetubsofslightlyembarrassinglynamed“sunblush”tomatoesandtheirintense,flavorfulacidityworkswellhere.Iamagreatbelieverinkeepingtheseonhand.
Otherwise,speedbeingoftheessence,theonlyrealdeviationhereisthatIusecroutons(somehigh-endbakedonesfromapackagewilldo)ratherthanboilsomepotatoesandthenhavetowaitforthemtocool.
Ifanyrecipedemonstrateswhatyoucanmakealmostexclusivelyfrompantryingredients,thenthismustbeit.
2eggs,preferablyorganic½cupfrozengreenbeans1cupsunblushtomatoesinseasonedoil½cupslicedpittedblackolivesinbrine8cupstorniceberglettuce
18-ozjarorcanexcellenttuna,about6ozdrainedweight4teaspoonsextravirginoliveoiljuiceof½lemon½teaspoonsugar¼teaspoonkoshersaltorpinchoftablesalt1cupcroutons4–6anchovyfillets—orindeednone,totaste½cupfreshbasilleaves
1Puttheeggsinapanfulofcoldwater,bringtoaboil,andletboilfor7minutes.Threeminutesin,addthefrozenbeans.
2Drainthebeansandeggs,andlettheeggssitinabowlunderrunningcoldwater.Putthebeansinastrainerandholdunderthetapforamomentorso.Theeggsandbeansstopcookingandthebeansgetcold.
3Tipthetomatoesandtheiroilintoabowl,addtheolives,andmixgently.
4Putthelettuceonaservingdishandthentopwiththetomato-olivemixture,savingtheirflavorsomeoilyjuicesinthebowlforthetimebeing.
5Drainthetunaandplacechunkswiththetomatoesandolives,thenstrewthesaladwiththedrainedbeans.
6Usingthetomatomixture’soilthathasbeenleftinthebowl,makethedressing:Whiskintheoliveoil,lemonjuice,sugar,andsalttomakeanemulsionandpouroverthesalad.
7Peelandquarterthealmostbutnotquitehard-boiledeggsandaddtothesaladalongwiththecroutons,theanchovyfillets,andthebasil.
Serves2forsupperorlunch
MINESTRONEINMINUTES
Thisischild’splaytomake,andIusethetermadvisedly,sinceitistheinventionofmyten-year-oldsonBruno(Brunostrone,wecallthissoupathome)andwemakeversionsofitconstantly.Useanybeansorlegumesyouwant,oramixtureisgood,too,andyoucanplaywiththepastasauceaswell.Ifyou’recomingdownwithacold(andnochildiseatingthis),Isuggestyouusethespiciest,hottestsauceyoucanfind.
WhileI’vegotyou,letmejustgiveyouaquickoutlineofanotherfastsoup,excellentforchildren’ssupperandmuchbelovedchezmoi.Wecalliteasyrisiebisi,asit’sasimplifiedversionoftheVenetianrisotto-likesoupusingriceandpeas;heregoes:Put4cupsofvegetablestockinapanwith1cupfrozenpeas,1½cupsofrisottorice,and1ozshaved,crumbled,orgratedcheese(ofanysort);letitcometoabubble,andthensimmerwithalidonfor20minutes.Attheend,IhavetoadmitthatIremovethelidandstirin24-ozjarsof100percentpeababyfood(Beech-NutTenderSweetPeastobeprecise)andthenladleitintobowlswithmorecheeseifanychildwants.
Thisisevenfaster.
114-ozcanmixedbeans(sometimessoldasmixedbeansalad)orothercannedbeans3cupshotchickenorvegetablestock1cuptomato-basedpastasauceofyourchoice4ozditaliniorothersouppasta
1Drainthebeansandputthemintoasaucepanwiththehotstockandpastasauce.
2Bringthepantoaboilandthenaddtheditalini,cookingaccordingtopackageinstructions.
3Oncethepastaistender,switchofftheheat,removethepantoacoolsurface,andletstandfor5–10minutesifyoucanbeartowait.Thepastaswellsinthesoupandeverythingjustgetsbetter.
Serves2–3
MERGUEZWITHHALLOUMIANDFLAME-ROASTEDPEPPERS
Thisisanothereasilyassembledsausagedish,butslightlylighteralltold.Notthatitwouldn’tfillupatablefulofhungryeaters,butnothingcancompetewithsauerkrautforputtinghairsonchests,andthatsortofgeneralbolstering.
Ikeeppackagesofhalloumicheeseonperpetualstandbyinmyfridge,andthepeppersIkeepinjarsinthecupboard.Butyoucouldalwaysuseapackoffrozenchar-grilledpeppersthatyouhadprepared.Indeed,ifyouslicethemthinlyenough,youcanusefreshbellpeppers.Merguezismyspicysausageofchoicehere,butchorizohasalongerfridgelifeifthat’saconsideration.Anythingyoucanbuyvacuum-packedcanonlyhelphere,too.
8merguezorspicysausages(approx12oz)18-ozblockhalloumicheese18-ozjarroastedpeppers1tablespoongarlic-infusedoil
1Preheattheovento425°F.Putthesausagesintoalow-sidedroastingpan(thismakesthecookingtimequicker).
2Slicethehalloumiinto¼-inchslicesandthenlaythemonandaroundthesausagesinthepan.
3Takethepeppersoutofthejarandalsostrewthemaroundthesausagesandcheese,cuttingthemintosmallerslicesandpiecesasyougo,thendrizzleovertheoil.
4Cookfor15–20minutes,bywhichtimethesausagesshouldhavebrownedandthecheesecoloredinplaces.
Serves4
CURRYINAHURRY
Thisissuchafavoritefallbackofmine,IwouldneverbewithoutthestaplesIneedtomakeit:coconutmilkandgreencurrypasteinthecupboard;variouspackagesofgreenvegetablesinthefreezer.Ofcourse,therearetheotherbitsandpieces,too,butthesearethemainones.ThechickenthighfilletsIbuyasandwhenIneedthem.
Ifyouwanttomakethiswithfreshvegetablesratherthanfrozen,thenupthewater(keepingtheamountofstockthesame)andindeedIwoulddoubleitto2cups.Thisiswhattocookwhenyoufindoutmidafternoonthatyou’vesomehowacquired6peoplefordinner.
2tablespoonscanolaorothervegetableoil3tablespoonsfinelychoppedscallions3–4tablespoonsgreenThaicurrypaste2¼lbschickenthighfillets,cutintostripsabout1½inchesby¾inch114-ozcancoconutmilk
1cupboilingwaterenoughchickenstockfrombouillonorconcentratetomake2cups1tablespoonfishsauce1½cupsfrozenpeas1½cupsfrozensoybeans1½cupsfrozenslenderbeans3tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantrocookedriceornoodles,toservelimewedges
1Heattheoilinalargesaucepan,onethatownsalid,anddropinthescallions.Cook,stirringforaminuteortwo,andthenaddthecurrypaste.
2Addthechickenpiecesandkeepturningoverheatfor2minutesbeforeaddingthecoconutmilk,stock(orratherwaterandchickenbouillonorconcentrate),andfishsauce,andthenthefrozenpeasandsoybeans.
3Simmerfor10minutes,thenaddthefrozenbeansandcookforanother3–5minutes.
4Servewithriceornoodles,aswished,sprinklingoverthecilantroasyoudoso.Putaplateoflimewedgesforpeopletosqueezeoverastheyeat.
Serves6
MELLOWMEATBALLS
Thisrecipeusesmanyofthesamestandbyingredientsasthechickencurry,butwhatitmakestastesverydifferent.Ibuyorganicbeefmini-meatballsfromthesupermarket,whichmakesthisextremelyeasytogettogether,andthere’dbenothingtostopyoufreezingthemandcookingthemrightfromfrozenifthathelps.Thoughinthatcase,I’djustpoptheminhotsauceandnotattempttobrownthemfirst.
Sureyoucanmakeyourownmeatballs,butsolongasyou’rehappywiththeoriginofthemeat(whichisalways,alwaysimportant),don’tbeatyourselfupaboutcuttingoutastagewhenyouknoweveryone’sgoingtobehappycomesuppertime.Likewisethepackageofdicedveg:Onceeverything’sswimminginitsmellowsauce,noone’sgoingtobeaskingquestions.
It’sjustacaseofmakinglifeeasieronyourself;frankly,nooneelseisgoingto.
3tablespoonsredcurrypaste2tablespoonsvegetableoil40organicminimeatballs(1lb5ozinweight)1teaspoongroundginger½teaspoongroundcinnamon114-flozcancoconutmilk114-ozcanchoppedtomatoes114-ozcanchickpeas,drained12ozdicedbutternutsquashandsweetpotato(inapackagefromsupermarket)2cupschickenstockfrombouilloncubesorconcentrateorfromapackage2tablespoonshoney
cookedrice,toserve½cupchoppedfreshcilantro
1Heatthecurrypasteandoilinalargewidepan,andwhenitstartssizzlingaddthemeatballs,turningthemintheredoilymixture.
2Sprinkleoverthegingerandcinnamonandfrythemeatballsforacoupleofminutes.
3Addthecoconutmilk,choppedtomatoes,anddrainedchickpeas.Stirinthedicedsquashandsweetpotatoandthenthestockandhoney.
4Bringthepantoaboil,andthensimmerfor20minutes.Servewithriceand
thendecorateeachplatewithsomechoppedcilantro.
Serves4–6
SAUSAGESWITHSAUERKRAUT
ThechoucroutegarnieIwroteaboutmanyyearsagoinHowtoEattookseveralhourstomakeandincludedmuchanointingwithgoosefat—andverygooditwas,too.Truthtotellthough,Idon’tbelievethistobeanylessgoodandImaybeassurprisedasyouaretofinditinachapteronpantryitems.Butitmakessense:Thesauerkrautispreservedinjarsorinrefrigeratedplasticbags,andthesausagesaresmokedandIkeepasupplyoftheminmydeepfreeze.Butthat’sonlybecauseIorderthemfrozen;whenIbuysmokedsausagesfromthespecialtyshoporbutcher,Iletthemlivehappilyinthefridge.
Itmayseemextravaganttouseawholebottleofwinetocookitallin,butit’stoucheslikethisthatelevatesimpleingredients.Andremember:It’sthequalityofthewinethatleavesitsnoteonthiswholedish.
Thisisvery,verygoodwithapanofplainsteamedpotatoesalongsideandthisreallyisn’tanyworkforyou.
5½cupssauerkraut,rinsedincoldwateranddrained8smokedsausages,cutintosmallerlengthsifwished(approximately2½lbs)2teaspoonsjuniperberries
3driedbayleaves1750mlbottleRieslingwine1teaspoonwhitepeppercorns
1Preheattheovento400°F.Coverthebottomofasmalltomediumroastingpanwiththedrainedsauerkraut.
2Addthesausages,juniperberries,andbayleaves.
3Pouroverthewineandsprinkleoverthepeppercorns.
4Bringthepantoaboilontopofthestove,thencoverwithaluminumfoilandcookintheovenfor30minutes.Servewithsteamedpotatoesifyouwish,anddefinitelysomeGermanbeermustard.
Serves6
CHOCOLATEPEARPUDDINGCAKE
ThisisacrossbetweenpearsbelleHeleneandEve’spudding,butthat’sanirrelevancereally.Theonlyimportantthingtorememberisthatthisiseasy,quick,andverycomfortingandseemstopleaseabsolutelyeveryone.It’snothardtomakesureyoualwayshavewhatyouneedinthehousetomakethis.Andforhotdayswhenbakedcakeandsauceseemsinappropriate,thenbearinmindthatcanned(orjarred)pearsandchocolatesauce—withorwithoutvanillaicecream—makealovelydessertontheirown.
Youcanmakethechocolatesaucehere,orbuyoneyoulike,obviously,butIhaveacompletepantrystandbyofasauceImakebyheatingtogether¾cupevaporatedmilk,½teaspooninstantespressopowder,½cupdarkcornsyrup,and3½ouncessemisweetchocolate.
Thecakeitselfdoesmakealittlebitofitsownsauce,soifyoureallydon’twanttomakesomeseparately,justservewithchocolateicecream.
Aswithanybaking,youreallydowantallingredientsatroomtemperaturebeforeyoustart.
214-ozcanspearhalvesinjuice1cupplus2tablespoonssugar¾cupplus1tablespoonflour¼cupcocoa
10tablespoons(1¼sticks)softbutterplusmoreforgreasing1teaspoonbakingpowder¼teaspoonbakingsoda
2eggs2teaspoonsvanillaextract
1Preheattheovento400°Fandgreasean8½-inch-squareovenproofdishwithbutter.
2Drainthepearsandarrangetheminthebaseofthedish.
3Putalltheremainingingredientsinaprocessorandblitztillyouhaveabatterwithasoftdroppingconsistency.
4Spreadthebrownbatteroverthepears,andbakeintheovenfor30minutes.
5Letstandfor5or10minutesandthencutintoslabs—Icut2downand2acrosstomake9slices—andservewithchocolatesauce.
Serves6–8
NUTELLAPANCAKES
Letjoybeunconfined.ThisistheoneofthemostirresistibledessertsIthinkIhaveevermade,andIdiditbynomorethansomefruitfulscrimmagingaboutmycupboards.Ilongforitalmostconstantly,anditisnotgoodthatitissoeasytomake,notgoodatall.
Ifyoudon’truntoFrangelicoyourself—andthereisnoreasonwhyyoushould—thensimplyreplacethishazelnutstickyliqueurwithsomerum.Andincidentally,Ilovethisasmuchwhenmadewithsweetenedchestnutpuree(thoughit’ssostrong,youcouldusemuchless)inplaceoftheNutella.Inwhichcase,Idefinitelyuserum,andforgothechoppedhazelnutsaltogether,dottingeitherwithafewcrumbledmarronsglacésasaspecialtreat,orsomechocolatesprinkles.
8store-boughtcrepes1½cupsNutella6tablespoonssoftbutter⅓cupplus2tablespoonsFrangelico⅓cupchoppedhazelnuts(fromapackage)1cupheavycream
1Preheattheovento400°F.
2PuteachcrepeinfrontofyouandspreadsomeNutellaoveronehalfandthenfoldtheunspreadsideoverthespreadside.Nowaddadollopoveronequarterandfoldagain,sowhatyouhaveisafat,squidgyfan.Placeinabutteredjelly-rollpanorsimilar.Proceedwiththeremaining7crepes,overlappingthemalittleinthepanasyougo.
3Putthebutterinasmallpanwiththe⅓cupofFrangelicoandheattomeltthebutter.
4Pouroverthecrepesintheirdish,sprinkleovermostofthechoppedhazelnuts,andbakeinthehotovenfor10minutes.
5Meanwhile,whiskthecreamwiththeremaining2tablespoonsofFrangelico
untilyouhaveanaeratedsoftfloppinessandputintoabowl,sprinklingwiththelastofthechoppedhazelnuts.Thislusciouscreamisamustalongsidethesweet,buttery,heavenlycrepes.
Serves6–8
CLAFOUTIS
Atraditionalclafoutis,fromtheLimousinregionofFrance,istoutcourt,abakedcustardybatterfilledwithcherries.Thecherries,moreover,arenotstoned,whichIthinkhasverylittletocommendit,saveeaseofexecution.Myversioniseveneasier:Iusemorellocherries(theymustbesourtobeacontrasttothesweeteggybatter)outofajar,oneortwoofwhichareallattimestobefoundsomewhere(usuallytheback)ofmycupboard.
WhereasthetraditionalLimousinpuddingisbakedslowlysothatyouhaveasoft,flan-likecustard,Iblitzminebrutallysoitismorelikeacherry-studdedYorkshirepudding.I’vegiventhebarebonesformylarderstandby;butsinceIkeepquiteacrammeddrinkscabinettoo,Ioftenadd¼cupofKirschtomine,reducingtheamountofmilkto1cup.Thesweet-toothedmightliketoaddtwomoretablespoonsofsuperfinesugartocountertheboozyhit,butIdon’t.
Ifyouhaven’tgotatartetatindishhandy(thoughIusemineforsomanyrecipes,includingroastingsmallbirds,Ican’trecommendonetoohighly),usean8-inchpiedishorsolidcaketin.
2teaspoonsvegetableoil½cupflour¼cupsugar4largeeggs1¼cups2%fatmilk¼cupKirsch,optional2cupsdrainedmorellocherriesfromajar½teaspoonpowderedsugar(optional)
1Puttheoilinacoppertartetatindishoranyshallowsolidcaketinorpiedishofabout8inchesdiameterandputthedishintheoven,preheatingitto450°Fasyoudoso.
2Inalargebowl,mixtheflourandsugarandthenwhiskin,eitherbyhandorusinganelectricmixer,theeggs,onebyone,themilk,andtheKirsch,ifusing.Remembertoreducethemilkto1cupifyouusetheKirsch.
3Whentheovenbeepstoshowit’sreachedtherequiredtemperature,orhoweverelseitdeignstoletyouknow,stirthedrainedcherriesintothebatter,quicklyopentheoven,takeoutthehotdish,pourthecherriedbatterin,and
popitquicklybackintotheoven.
4Bakefor30minutes,bywhichtimethesideswillbebronzedandpuffed,risingdramaticallyawayfromtheedgesofthetin,thoughitsubsidesprettywellimmediatelyafterit’scomeoutoftheoven,sothemomentofpleasurabletriumphisfleeting.Ahwell.
5Letstandforabout10minutes(20isfine,too,anditisaddictivecold,too),thendustwithpowderedsugarjustbeforeserving,ifthefancytakesyou.
Serves6–8
VANILLAAPPLESWITHSWEETHEARTCROUTES
ThisiswhatImakewhenIwasnotexpectingtohavetomakeadessertandhavenothingaroundandnotimetobeclever.Igrabtheapplesfromthefruitbowl—I’vespecifiedGala,butreally,usewhatever’sathand—andtakesomeslicesofthechildren’splasticslicedwhitebread.Andyouknowwhat?Thisreallyworks.Everyone’sfooled,evenme.InanidealworldI’dlikeabitofthickpourablecreamwithit,butifthereisn’tany,I’mnotcomplaining.
4–6tablespoonsbutter2Galaapples2tablespoonsvanillaextract3slicesofbread,cutintoheartshapeswithacookiecuttersugar,forsprinkling
1Meltthebutterinaskillet,reservingaspoonfulforlater.
2Finelyslicetheapples(don’tbothertopeelorcore;curiouslyIgetabout22slicesoutof2apples,don’taskmehow)andaddthemtothepan,cookingforabout3minutes,thenaddthevanillaandcookforaboutanother5minutestotal,turningonce.
3Removetheapplestoaplate,thenaddtheremainingspoonfulofbuttertothepanandquicklyfrythesweetheartcroutes.
4Arrangethesweetheartcroutesontheplatewiththeapplesandsprinklewithsugar.Servewithcreamifyou’vegotsome.
Serves4
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
AsIdrawthisbooktoanend,IconcludethatIamextraordinarilyfortunateinowingsomanypeoplethanks.Thedrawbackisonlythatalonglistrequiresanunwontedandunwarrantedterseness.Thechina,linen,cutleryandgeneralembellishmentinthephotosthatprecedethiscomefrommyowncupboardsandanalmostdangerouseBayhabit,butontopofthatIamgratefultothefollowing:AbsoluteFlowers;Baileys;Cabbages&Roses;CeramicaBlue;TheClothShop;TheConranShop;TheCross;TheDiningRoomShop;Divertimenti;GelateriaValerie;Habitat;Heals;LeCreuset;Liberty;OKA;PetershamNurseries;Something…;Summerill&Bishop;ThomasGoode.
Icouldn’thaveproducedtheserecipeswithoutthefood,deliveredinalmostcomicalamounts,byAllen’s,JamesKnight,MichanicouBrothersandPanzer’s.
FionaGolfar,long-standingfriendandüberstylist,providedmostofherfurnitureandalsoRoseMurray,mySecond-HandRose,whointurnthrewherselfintothebook,andmychaoticlife,withcharmandhardwork,awinningcombination.
IamgratefultoElinorKlivansandherpublishersChronicleBooks,SanFrancisco,forpermissiontoreprintherrecipeforTotallyChocolateChocolateChipCookiesfromherbookBigFatCookies.
Asever,Iamindebted,heartswellinglyso,toHettiePotterandZoeWales,mylife-supportsystem,whobroughtthisbabyintotheworldwithme,asdidCazHildebrand,whoseinstinct,wit,brilliance,unfailingeyeandgenerosityareconstantlyinvaluabletome.IamgratefultoFrancescaandLisaGrillo,AnzelleWassermanandKateBullfortheirsupport;withouttheirwork,Icouldnotdomywork.Ifeelextraordinarilyblessedinmypublishers,andwantparticularlytothankPoppyHampson,GailRebuck,AlisonSamuel,WillSchwalbeandLeslieWells(andtheirbackroomsupportteams,includingJanBowmerandMaryGibson).Iamaware,too,ofmygoodfortuneincomingacrossLisParsons;herphotographsprovidejustthepicturesIdreamtofformyrecipes.
Itwouldbewrong,too,formetofailtoacknowledgemystepdaughterPhoebe,andmychildrenMimiandBrunowithoutwhomthiswouldbepointless.
ToEdVictor,myagentandfriend,inordinateamountsoflove:thisisfor
ToEdVictor,myagentandfriend,inordinateamountsoflove:thisisforyou.
ForCharles:thankyou,thankyou,thankyou.
INDEX
Thepaginationofthiselectroniceditiondoesnotmatchtheeditionfromwhichitwascreated.Tolocateaspecificentry,pleaseusethesearchfeatureofyoure-bookreader.
Amarettosyllabub308Anchovyredwinedressing354Anglo-Asianlambsalad6applesGreenappleMartini197Pinkginapplesauce212–13Tartefineauxpommes217Vanillaappleswithsweetheartcroutes378
avocadosAvocadobruschetta90Avocadocrayfishcocktail58CrabandavocadosaladwithJapanesedressing33Crabandavocadowraps202–3Quickcrostiniwithavocadoandgreenpeahummus201Roquamole243
Bananabutterscotchmuffins262BananasmoothieseeGoget’emsmoothiebassseeseabassbeansTomatoandblackbeansalsa233Whitebeanmash140seealsoborlottibeans;cannellinibeefFlash-friedsteakwithwhitebeanmash140High-speedhamburgerwithfastfries145Juicybeefskewerswithhorseradishdip205Mellowmeatballs369Minimeatloaves270Quickchili236
Quickchili236Steakslicewithlemonandthyme40
Blackpastawithredmullet294blackberriesBlackberriesinmuscatjelly225Blackberrycrisp52Forgottenpudding136
blueberriesBlueberrysyrupforpancakes93Choppedfruitsalad89Nectarineandblueberrygalette156
borlottibeansTunaandbeans284
bourbonbutter343Brandied-baconychicken36breadDoughnutFrenchtoast188Lazyloaf131
Breakfastbars94Breakfastbruschetta90broccoliBroccoliandStiltonsoup330Mustard-capersauceforbroccoli13
browniesFlourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51
bruschettaAvocadobruschetta90Tomatobruschetta90
Budinodicioccolato311Buñuelos248burgerHigh-speedhamburgerwithfastfries145
Butterflycakes187Buttermilkroastchicken274butternutsquashButternutsquashandsweetpotatosoup168Butternutsquashwithpecansandbluecheese333Mellowmeatballs369
Mellowmeatballs369butterscotchBananabutterscotchmuffins262Butterscotchfruitfondue27
cakesButterflycakes187Chocolatepearpuddingcake373Icecreamcake222Pineappleupside-downcake82
calamariseeQuickcalamaricanapésCocktailsausages322Halloumibites325Quickcrostiniwithavocadoandgreenpeahummus201
cannelliniSmokedcodandcannellini4
Caramelcroissantpudding23Caribbeancreams49Cheddarcheeserisotto176cevicheseeChoppedcevichecheeseBroccoliandStiltonsoup330Cheddarcheeserisotto176Cheesefondue70Cheeseomelette104CroqueMonsieurbake106Grilledcheeseandslaw180–1Macandcheese179Quesadillas240Roquamole243seealsogoat’scheeseCheesecake,Cherry81
Chef’ssalad62Cherrycheesecake81chickenBrandied-baconychicken36Buttermilkroastchicken274ChickenCaesarcornets257Chicken,mushroom,andbaconpie175ChickenSchnitzelwithbaconandwhitewine143CoqauRiesling119
CoqauRiesling119Curryinahurry366Maplechicken’n’ribs110Mexicanchickensaladwithblackbeansalsa232–3Polloallacacciatora296Rib-stickingstir-fry171seealsopoussins
Chickenliversalad68Chickpeaswitharugulaandsherry155chileChileoil353Chileomelette104Quickchili236
Chileanseabass239chocolateBudinodicioccolato311Chocolatecroissants98Chocolatemacaroons312Chocolatemintcookies54Chocolatepeanutbutterfudgesundae160Chocolatepearpuddingcake373Chocolatepistachiofudge338Flourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51Glitzychocolatepuddings221Instantchocolatemousse159Lunchboxtreats266Mexicanhotchocolate251Nutellapancakes374QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340RockyRoadcrunchbars258Totallychocolatechocolatechipcookies190Whitechocolatemintmousse218
ChoppedcevicheandMexicola239chorizosausagesQuickchili236Scallopsandchorizo153
chowdersChowderwithAsianflavors164
ChowderwithAsianflavors164Sweetcornchowderwithtoastedtortillas235
Christmasinaglass318Clafoutis377clamsSeafoodpot329
clementinesSeasonalfruitsalad350
Cloudylemonadeforasunnyday278Cocktailsausages322cod,blackChoppedceviche239
cod,smokedSmokedcodandcannellini4
coleslawNewOrleanscoleslaw277seealsoSandwichslawcookiesseealsoMacaroons,chocolateChocolatemintcookies54
Totallychocolatechocolatechipcookies190CoqauRiesling119cornishhenRoastcornishhenandsweetpotatoes20
CrabandavocadosaladwithJapanesedressing33Crabandavocadowraps202–3crepesCrepesSuzette75Nutellapancakes374
Crispyduck112Croissants,Chocolate98CroqueMonsieurbake106Crostini,Quick,withavocadoandgreenpeahummus201Crumble,Jumbleberry183Crunchysaladwithhotandsourdressing265cucumberSweetandsourcucumbersalad122
curriesCurryinahurry366Redshrimpandmangocurry15
DelConte,Anna299dessertsAmarettosyllabub308Blackberriesinmuscatjelly225Blackberrycrisp52Budinodicioccolato311Butterscotchfruitfondue27Caramelcroissantpudding23Caribbeancreams49Cherrycheesecake81Chocolatepeanutbutterfudgesundae160CrepesSuzette75Etonmess46Flan244Flourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51Forgottenpudding136Ginger-passionfruittrifle226Glitzychocolatepuddings221Holidayhotcakewitheggnogcream344Icecreamcake222Instantchocolatemousse159Irishcreamtiramisu135Jumbleberrycrumble183Mangosplit78Margaritaicecream247Marsala-honeypearswithGorgonzola304Nectarineandblueberrygalette156Nochurnpomegranateicecream132Nutellapancakes374Peachesinmuscat307QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340Rhubarbandcustardgelato24Roly-polypudding184Tartefineauxpommes217Whitechocolatemintmousse218
DoughnutFrenchtoast188dressingsAnchovyredwinedressing354
Anchovyredwinedressing354Goldenhoneymustarddressing354Hotandsourdressing(forsalads)265Wasabilimedressing355seealsomayonnaisesdrinksChristmasinaglass318Cloudylemonadeforasunnyday278Gingerpom197Goget’emsmoothie86GreenappleMartini197Hottoddy351Mexicola239PomegranateBellini318Rougelimonade318Snowball316
duckCrispyduck112Duckbreastswithpomegranateandmint210
Eggnogcream344eggsCheeseomelette104Chileomelette104CroqueMonsieurbake106DoughnutFrenchtoast188Flan244Forgottenpudding136Greeneggsandham103Greenomelette104Hamomelette104Mexicanscrambledeggs230Oeufsencocotte65OrangeFrenchtoast101Spanishomelette273
endiveseeescaroleescarolePappardellewithescarole288
Etonmess46
Festivefusilli326fishBlackpastawithredmullet294Goujonsofsolewithdillmayonnaise73Gravlaxsashimi125Choppedceviche239Mirin-glazedsalmon149Potatocakeswithsmokedsalmon198Quickcalamariwithgarlicmayonnaise16Sakéseabassandwiltedgreens34–5Salmonescalopeswithwatercress,sugarsnaps,andavocado9Seafoodpot329SearedsalmonwithSingaporenoodles43Smokedcodandcannellini4Smokedtroutpâté61Swedishsalmon120–1Tunaandbeans284Tunaandcrabandavocadowraps202–3Tunasteakswithblackbeans150
Flan244Flash-friedsteakwithwhitebeanmash140Flourlesschocolatebrownieswithhotchocolatesauce51fonduesButterscotchfruitfondue27Cheesefondue70
Forgottenpudding136Frittata104fruitButterscotchfruitfondue27Choppedfruitsalad89Jumbleberrycrumble183seealsospecificfruitsSeasonalfruitsalad350
fruit,driedSteepedChristmasfruits348
fudgeChocolatepeanutbutterfudgesundae160Chocolatepistachiofudge338
Chocolatepistachiofudge338Fusilli,Festive326
Garlicmayonnaise16Garlicoil353Ginger-passionfruittrifle226Gingerpom197Glitzychocolatepuddings221Goget’emsmoothie86goatcheeseGoldengoatcheese358–9Slow-roasttomatoes,goatcheese,andmintsalad127
Goldengoatcheese358–9Goldenhoneymustarddressing354Goujonsofsolewithdillmayonnaise73Gravlaxsashimi125GreenappleMartini197Greeneggsandham103Greenomelette104Gremolata,crazy,withMozzarella287Grilledcheeseandslaw180–1
haddock,smokedseecod,smokedhalloumiHalloumibites325Merguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365
hamGreeneggsandham103Hamomelette104Hamsteakswithparsley146Red-leaf,fig,andSerranohamsalad206
High-speedhamburgerwithfastfries145HokeyPokey281Holidayhotcakewitheggnogcream344honeyGoldenhoneymustarddressing354
honeycombHokeyPokey281andsee221,222
Hottoddy351hummusAvocadoandgreenpeahummus201Redpepperhummus356
infusedoilseeunderChileandGarlicandWokicecreamIcecreamcake222Margaritaicecream247No-churnpomegranateicecream132
Instantchocolatemousse159Irishcreamtiramisu135Italiansausagesinhottomatosaucewithpolenta302
Juicybeefskewerswithhorseradishdip205Jumbleberrycrumble183
Klivans,Elinor:BigFatCookies190
lambAnglo-Asianlambsalad6Lambribchopswithchileandblackolives299Lamb,olive,andcaramelizedoniontagine114Lambshankswithbeans117Rapidragu172
Landis,Denise:DinnerforEight319Layeredsaladwithroastquail44Lazyloaf131leeksRoastpencilleeks213
Lemonade278Cloudylemonadeforasunnyday278Rougelimonade318
Lentilandwalnutsalad359Linguinewithlemon,garlic,andthymemushrooms291Liverwithbaconandcharredonions301Lunchboxtreats266
Macandcheese179
Macandcheese179Macaroons,Chocolate312mangoButterscotchfruitfondue27Choppedfruitsalad89Mangosplit78Redshrimpandmangocurry15
Maplechicken’n’ribs110Maplepepperpecans319Margaritaicecream247Marsala-honeypearswithGorgonzola304Marshmallowcrispysquares347Martiniolives319mayonnaiseDillmayonnaise73Garlicmayonnaise16
Mellowmeatballs369Merguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365meringuesEtonmess46QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340
Mexicanchickensaladwithblackbeansalsa232–3MexicanchoppedcevicheseeChoppedcevicheMexicanhotchocolate251Mexicanscrambledeggs230Mexicola239Mincemeatparcelswithbourbonbutter343Minestroneinminutes363Minimeatloaves270monkfishChoppedceviche239Seafoodpot329
MontBlanc340Moonblushtomatoes126–7Mortadellapastasalad269Mouclade67moussesInstantchocolatemousse159Whitechocolatemintmousse218
Mozzarellawithcrazygremolata287muffinsBananabutterscotchmuffins262Pearandgingermuffins97
mullet,redBlackpastawithredmullet294
mushroomsLinguinewithlemon,garlic,andthymemushrooms291Potatoandmushroomgratin39
musselsMouclade67
mustardGoldenhoneymustarddressing354Mustard-capersauce(forbroccoli)13Mustardporkchops11
Naanpizza19Nectarineandblueberrygalette156NewOrleanscoleslaw277No-churnpomegranateicecream132noodlesNoodlesoupforneedypeople167Sesamepeanutnoodles261Singaporenoodles43
Nutellapancakes374
Oeufsencocotte65oilseeinfusedoilOlives,Martini319omelettesseeundereggsOrangeFrenchtoast101
pancakesHomemadeinstantpancakemix92–3seealsocrepes
Pappardellewithescarole288Partypopcorn321passionfruitForgottenpudding136Ginger-passionfruittrifle226
Ginger-passionfruittrifle226pastaBlackpastawithredmullet294Festivefusilli326Linguinewithlemon,garlic,andthymemushrooms291Mortadellapastasalad269Pappardellewithescarole288Spaghettiniwithshrimpandchile293
pâtéSmokedtroutpâté61
Peaandpestosoup254peachesPeachesinmuscat307Spicedpeaches337
pearsChocolatepearpuddingcake373Marsala-honeypearswithGorgonzola304Pearandgingermuffins97
pecannutsMaplepepperpecans319
peppersMerguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365Redpepperhummus356
pestoPeaandpestosoup254Greeneggsandham103
Pineappleupside-downcake82pizzaseeNaanpizzaPolloallacacciatora296pomegranatesGingerpom197No-churnpomegranateicecream132PomegranateBellini318
Popcorn,Party321porkMaplechicken’n’ribs110Mustardporkchops11
potatoesFastfries145
Potatoandmushroomgratin39Potatocakeswithsmokedsalmon198Spanishomelette273Warmpotatosalad122–3
potatoes,sweetButternutsquashandsweetpotatosoup168
quailLayeredsaladwithroastquail44
Quesadillas240Quickcalamariwithgarlicmayonnaise16Quickchili236QuicklyscaledMontBlanc340
Rapidragu172Red-leaf,fig,andSerranohamsalad206Redpepperhummus356Redshrimpandmangocurry15Rhubarbandcustardgelato24Rib-stickingstir-fry171Risotto,Cheddarcheese176Roastcornishhenandsweetpotatoes20RockyRoadcrunchbars258Roly-polypudding184Roquamole243Rougelimonade318
Sakeseabassandwiltedgreens34–5saladsAnglo-Asianlambsalad6Chef’ssalad62Chickenliversalad68CrabandavocadosaladwithJapanesedressing33Crunchysaladwithhotandsourdressing265Layeredsaladwithroastquail44Lentilandwalnutsalad359Mexicanchickensaladwithtomatoandblackbeansalsa232–3Mortadellapastasalad269
Mortadellapastasalad269Red-leaf,fig,andSerranohamsalad206SaladeNiçoise360Sesamepeanutnoodles261Slow-roasttomatoes,goatcheese,andmintsalad127Sweetandsourcucumbersalad122Warmpotatosalad122–3
salmonGravlaxsashimi125Mirin-glazedsalmon149Salmonescalopeswithwatercress,sugarsnaps,andavocado9Seafoodpot329SearedsalmonwithSingaporenoodles43Swedishsalmon120–1
salmon,smokedPotatocakeswithsmokedsalmon198
salsaTomatoandblackbeansalsa233
Sandwichslaw180–1satsumasSeasonalfruitsalad350
saucesHotchocolatesauce51MaryamZairasauce30Mustard-capersauce(forbroccoli)13Pinkginapplesauce212–13
sauerkrautSausageswithsauerkraut370
sausagemeatMinimeatloaves270
sausagesCocktailsausages322Italiansausagesinhottomatosaucewithpolenta302Merguezwithhalloumiandflame-roastedpeppers365Sausageswithsauerkraut370
Scallopsandchorizo153Scallops-on-the-shell209seabass
Sakeseabassandwiltedgreens34–5Seafoodpot329Seasonalfruitsalad350Sesamepeanutnoodles261shrimpRedshrimpandmangocurry15ShrimpwithMaryamZairasauce30Spaghettiniwithshrimpandchile293
Smokedcodandcannellini4Smokedtroutpâté61smoothieGoget’emsmoothie86
Snowball316sole,lemonGoujonsofsolewithdillmayonnaise73
soupsBroccoliandStiltonsoup330Butternutsquashandsweetpotatosoup168Minestroneinminutes363Noodlesoupforneedypeople167Peaandpestosoup254seealsochowders
Spaghettiniwithshrimpandchile293Spanishomelette273Spicedpeaches337squidQuickcalamariwithgarlicmayonnaise16Seafoodpot329
steakFlash-friedsteakwithwhitebeanmash140Steakslicewithlemonandthyme40
Stir-fry,Rib-sticking171SteepedChristmasfruits348strawberriesButterscotchfruitfondue27Choppedfruitsalad89Etonmess46Forgottenpudding136
Forgottenpudding136Swedishsalmon120–1Sweetandsourcucumbersalad122Sweetcornchowderwithtoastedtortillas235Syllabub,Amaretto308
Tartefineauxpommes217Tiramisu,Irishcream135tomatoesFestivefusilli326Moonblushtomatoes126–7SaladeNiçoise360Slow-roasttomatoes,goatcheese,andmintsalad127Tomatoandblackbeansalsa233Tomatobruschetta90
trifleGingerpassionfruittrifle226
trout,smokedSmokedtroutpâté61
tunaTunaandbeans284Tunaandcrabandavocadowraps202–3Tunasteakswithblackbeans150Turkeytonnato334
turkeyRib-stickingstir-fry171Turkeyfilletswithanchovy,gherkin,anddill12Turkeytonnato334
Vanillaappleswithsweetheartcroutes378venisonGriddledvenisonwithpinkginapplesauceandroastpencilleeks212–13
Warmpotatosalad122–3Wasabilimedressing355Whitechocolatemintmousse218Wiltedgreens35Wokoil353
AbouttheAuthor
NigellaLawsonistheauthorofthebestsellingbooksHowtoEat,HowtoBeaDomesticGoddess,NigellaBites,ForeverSummer,andFeast—which,alongwithseveralsuccessfulTVseries,havemadeherahouseholdnamearoundtheworld.SheisacontributortotheNewYorkTimesandlivesinLondonwithherfamily.
AlsobyNigellaLawson
HOWTOEATTHEPLEASURESANDPRINCIPLESOFGOODFOOD
HOWTOBEADOMESTICGODDESSBAKINGANDTHEARTOFCOMFORTCOOKING
NIGELLABITESFROMFAMILYMEALSTOELEGANTDINNERS—EASY,DELECTABLE
RECIPESFORANYOCCASION
FOREVERSUMMER
FEASTFOODTHATCELEBRATESLIFE
Copyright
Copyright©2007NigellaLawsonDesignandArtDirection:CazHildebrandCookeryAssistant:HettiePotterEditorialAssistant:ZoeWalesLayout/Design:JulieMartinIllustrations:WestOneArts&MarkPatonIndex:VickiRobinson
Allrightsreserved.ExceptaspermittedundertheU.S.CopyrightActof1976,nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,distributed,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,orstoredinadatabaseorretrievalsystem,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.Forinformation,addressHyperion,1500Broadway,NewYork,NewYork10036.
eBookEditionISBN:978-1-4013-0602-1
FirsteBookEdition
OriginalhardcovereditionprintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica.
www.HyperionBooks.com
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