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18 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
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Lookout Qatar36 This and That
Couture designer Rani Zakhem isinspired by the culture of the places he
has lived; the technical watch from
Officine Panerai; Dunhill's Autumn
Winter 2014/2015 Chassis collection; Deena
Aljuhani Abdulaziz, the founder of DNA, is
in a collaboration with Nathalie Trad; and
the surreal world of Maldives.
40 The Trend
When the house of Fendi presented its
first collection of ready-to-wear fur, it was
the first time anyone had seen a new
future for fur. Fluid, light, and wearable,
the legacy for the Italian house was
cemented.
42 Runway Analysis
For AW/14 the Middle Eastern designers
went back to their roots to embrace their
cultural heritage.
45 Creative Fair
Cristina Romelli Gervasoni, Downtown
Design's director, tells why Dubai has
become so relevant to the international
design scene.
47 Talent Watch
Alessandra Facchinetti of Tods is
compared to Clines Phoebe
Philo, and the brands last collection was
termed a minimalist moment in Milan.
COURTESYOFDOWNT
OWNDESIGN
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40 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine
If Arabian royalty has a face for street style, it would beDeena Aljuhani Abdulaziz the Saudi Arabian princess
whose fashion insight merits reverence with a quiet yet far-lung inluence among emerging designers.
The founder of DNA, a members-only boutique, has often been photographed latelywith a clutch in hand presumably a personal favorite in line with fashions renewed
love affair with the minaudire. After a well-celebrated trunk show by accessories
designer Nathalie Trad at DNAs Doha outpost earlier this year, the duo has come
together to launch LEsprit Deco Modern a specially handcrafted capsule collection
as part of the designers Fall collection. Trad, who bagged the best regional accessory
designer title at the 2014 Grazia Style Awards in Dubai, delved into the Art Deco
movement of the 1920s and 30s as the focal point of the collaboration. We wanted to
tap into this luxurious deco sensibility by creating a collection of clutches that are both
irresistible objects of desire as well as precious heirlooms meant to be passed down
from one generation to the next, says Trad. The collection features four distinctive
styles: the Adler, the Dixon, the Leon and the Raleigh a collective outcome of thedesigners study on haute jewelers techniques in the 20s with the furniture design
work of Jean Prouv and Jean Michel Frank inluencing the choices of material. The
collaboration, an adventure and labor of love, for Trad, is available exclusively at DNA
boutiques in Riyadh and Doha as well as online at FarFetch.com. DEBRINA ALIYAH
Holding On to Deco
Dashboard InspiredBrands have been inspired by art and artists.Some like Dunhill were already known formotoring provenance.
Taking it further, the Autumn Winter 2014/2015 Chassis collection from
Dunhill found inspiration in the leather of motor car dashboards of the
1900s. The cult carbon fiber effect on this range is created by fusingintense heat with highly technical liquid print and a metal printing
plate to create a unique three-dimensional appearance.
Available in elegant blues, chestnut browns and racing greens, the
details on the bags such as D-rings, padlock cases and leather zip pulls
as inspired by the brand's design hallmarks. The facet glass was
used by Alfred Dunhill while designing the interior lights in the car in
the early 1930s. SINDHU NAIR
Designed specifically for those who travel, the Luminor 1950
3 Days GMT 24H is a new watch from Officine Panerai. De-
spite its rather technical name, this watch is built toenable the second time zone to be read simultaneously with
local time by means of an independent central hand which
makes one revolution of the dial every 24 hours. It is also the
first watch from Panerai to adopt a new manufacture move-
ment, the automatic P.9003 calibre. The most innovative
feature relates to the GMT function,that is indicated over 24
hours instead of 12 hours. It also has a newly designed circu-
lar power reserve indicator on the back of the watch, which
is clearly visible and easy to read through the sapphire crys-
tal in the caseback. ABIGAIL MATHIAS
Ahead of Its Time
Lookout Qatar
IN THE RIGHT HANDS:Officine Panerai's latest technical offering.
Clockwise from top left: The Raleigh,The Leon, the Adler and the Dixon, four distinctivestyles of clutches from the LEsprit Deco Modern.
The Dunhill AutumnWinter collection has aunique carbon fibereffect.
COURTSEYOFDUNHIL
L;COURTSEYOFOFFICINEPANERAI;COURTSEY
OFNATHALIETRAD
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Lookout Qatar
The Couture PrinceThe de facto story of a couturier
from the Middle East usually starts
in Lebanon the creativecornerstone that seems to give birthto waves of designers with fantasy-laden creations that would rival any
Disney princesss wardrobe.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
DESIGNER RANI ZAKHEMSversion comes with a little
African twist growing up in Nairobi, where his family
fled from then war-torn Lebanon. Drawing from the
vibrant colors and rich diversity of Kenyan culture, the
designer leaped head-on into the world of fashion.
With a prestigious Parsons training, the label Rani
Zakhem came to life in 2009, first with a special focus on
the plus-size market and then onto what the designer
does best, couture. A couple of successful collections
later, Zakhem made his Alta Roma debut in July with
the Couture Fall 2014 presentation.The accolade was a defining moment as Alta Roma is
primarily an Italian showing with little international
representation. It provided innumerable opportunities
in terms of growth, exposure and brand establishment,
he says. The collection, Metamorphosis, offers
Zakhems narrative of a womans evolving moments in
life from dusk to dawn, and from youth to maturity, and
is executed in impressive technical touches of
kaleidoscopic geometric embroidery, laser devore-
flocked tulle and silver degrade pailettes.
Zakhems strength in dramatic and sensual creations
has made fans of celebrities like Kelly Rowland and
Roselyn Sanchez, who walked the red carpets in his
pieces. The wave is riding high for Zakhem, though he
is mindful of the highly-saturated luxury market in theregion. It is important to be fresh with a strong identity
to stay competitive, he says. Theres also a need to
truly understand your clients and adapt accordingly to
truly be an international brand.
DIVERSITY IN FASHIONRani Zakhem's CoutureFall 2014 presentation.
On Talent
COURTESYOFRANIZAKHEM
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Lookout Qatar
FRANKLY SPEAKING, the notion of fur in the Middle East screams
impractical and downright ridiculous. Cascading down the Corniche
in a mink coat on a balmy winter evening of 15 degrees C hardly
does the fur any justice. But the image that fur needs to be in an
austere coat form is also an archaic perception. The evolution of
materials in garment-making has come far, especially when
innovation drives designers to take a pair of scissors to the precious
fur. The intrinsic value of what Karl Lagerfeld and the five Fendi
sisters, Paola, Anna, Franca, Carla and Alda daughters of the
founders Edoardo and Adele Fendi did in the 60s when theyrevolutionized the use of fur in fashion is one that is everlasting.
The rigidness and hassle of fur in its earlier forms, weighed down
by layers of lining thought necessary to protect the expensive
material, made the garment solely a status symbol rather than
anything fashionably functional. When the house of Fendi presented
their maiden collection of ready-to-wear fur, it was the first anyone
had seen of the new future for fur. Fluid, light, and wearable, the
legacy for the Italian house was cemented.
In contemporary times, the personification of this luxurious
material has further evolved with Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini
Fendi, daughter of one of the famous five Fendi sisters, Anna, and
mother to accessories designer Delfina Delettrez, at the forefront.
On the lesson of staying relevant, the house of Fendi is able to keep
a finger on the pulse of the changing needs of women lightwearable mink coats are great, but what about using fur for a
myriad of other fashion items? Silvia remains the only family
member active in the operations of the Roman house.
Experimentation is such a vital part of Fendi my family initiated
THE DIRECTIONClockwise from left:Karl Lagerfeld andSilvia Venturini Fendiat the closing of thehouse's Fall 2014runway show; the fiveFendi sisters withLagerfeld in the earlydays of the furrevolution; the firstFendi fur collection byLagerfeld featuringFendi as a child in1965.
COURTESYOFFENDI
For the Fur of It
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
The science of the evolution of a material thatmight not seem to be an obvious choice for the region. Designs
make up for the lack of practicality.
The Trend
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45September-October 2014
THE LEGACYClockwise from top left: Fendi remains the onlyItalian house in the world to have its own fur atelier;daughter of Silvia, jewelry designer DelfinaDelettrez has recently designed a fur-inspiredjewelry line for the house of Fendi; the five Fendisisters, Anna, Carla, Franca, Alda and Paola worked
together in the fur ateliers; a sketch of the Astucciofur coat by Lagerfeld in 1971.
the change of ridiculous big furs in the 60s and the craftsmanship
that has passed down from generation to generation has kept this
alive, Silvia Fendi explains.
The emblematic relationship between Lagerfeld and the family
has been the driving force behind the work that Fendi has done with
fur. He rethought the furs from a status symbol to a normal
garment as a dress by taking away the linings and giving lightness
to it, Silvia says. Karl has always been a presence in Silvias lifesince she was a child, a vision now immortalized in the 1965 Fendi
campaign photo featuring a young Silvia and Karl wrapped up in
fur. I remember Karl working with my mother and her sisters,
sketching and brainstorming. He is an incredible person, very
clever, Silvia says. Lagerfeld has remained the head of
womenswear for Fendi for nearly 50 years and Silvia is the creative
director of accessories and menswear. We know each other so well
that there is no need to speak much when creating collections. We
understand each other with just a look. Karl gets bored easily and
always wants to be surprised so our work is very projected towards
the future, Silvia explains.
Fendis fur atelier has seen some marked strokes of creativity
meets science lab-inspired moments. In Fall 2008, the Gold
Molecular Fusion technique was developed where 24k gold
molecules were placed on the edge of the fur pieces as paint brush
strokes while the metamorphosis technique became the benchmark
for Fendi, fusing fur and texture together seamlessly. My favorite
remains the traditional Intarsia workmanship a complex,
elaborate method that takes many hours to create one fur coat,
Silvia says.
In the past two decades, Silvia has been credited with the rise ofthe legendary Fendi IT bags; the sensational Baguette that went on
to win the Fashion Group Internationals accessories award, the
Spy and of course, the much-coveted Peekaboo. The presence of fur
in Fendis accessories line is very much an integral part of its
Experimentation is such a vital part ofFendi my family initiated the change of
ridiculous big furs in the 60s and thecraftsmanship that has passed down from
generation to generation has kept this alive.
success fur details are a signature for almost all of the houses
offerings. The Baguette was released in a 24k gold mink version
using the same Gold Molecular Fusion technique, while the current
season serves up an utterly playful Monster Bug Baguette that
comes with its own repertoire of Monster bag charm friends.
Small accessories as the fur charms have been designed to give
the possibility for everyone to live the fur dream even if not being
able to afford a fur coat, Silvia says. This Fall, Fendis fur is on
everyones lips again; one, of course, for being one of the most
fur-applicative ready-to-wear collections and, two, for the
introduction of Karlito a fur charm in the image of Lagerfeld
himself. A tongue-in-cheek homage to Lagerfeld, for the extent ofhow he has changed the image of fur in the past five decades. On
that note, it makes so much more sartorial sense to still be able to
stroll down the Corniche on a Doha winter evening in fur, just in a
lighter form of perhaps a fur-trimmed scarf.
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