1. Historical Japanese Clothing For Cosplayers An overview of
traditional Japanese clothing, from the Heian era to the present
day, with an emphasis on fabrics, construction techniques, and how
cosplayers in the West can replicate these garments without going
broke in the process.
2. History Time periods of note: Heian 7941185 Muromachi
13361573 Includes Sengoku period Edo 16031868 Meiji 18681912
3. Series CLAMP o X o Tokyo Babylon o Tsubasa
4. Series Bakumatsu/Meiji series o Gintama o Kenshin o
Peacemaker Kurogane o Mononoke
5. Series Heian-era clothes o Inuyasha o Sailor Moon
7. Breakdown of Styles For Women Sleeve lengths convey messages
about age & marital status o The longest sleeves are reserved
for unmarried young women & girls in formal occasions Color and
pattern also convey messages about formality o Black is very
formal, and also used for funeral attire o Mon (family crests) are
also an indication of formality Accessories are further used in
styling kimono o This includes obi and the knots used to tie
them
8. Heian Era Major cultural exchange with China Importation of
Chinese styles for the nobility
9. Women Heavily layered Designed for aesthetics, not
functionality Choice of colors important Frequently all a man would
see before marriage
10. Men Also fairly layered More functional Still in use
(Shinto priests)
11. Men Kimono Hakama (nondivided or divided) Kataginu (formal)
Jinbaori ('campaign coat')
12. Breakdown of Styles For Men Significantly less choice and
style in men's kimono o Colors are usually subdued, with little
patterning Only two obi types, one formal, one informal Only
recently has style shifted towards more colorful styles
13. The Modern Kimono Women Specific colors and style for
different ages and occasions Furisode (long sleeves, for unmarried
women) Kakeshita (wedding kimono) Uchikake (elaborate wedding
over-robe, padded hem) Some movement away from rigid definition in
recent years Men Still very subdued colors - browns, blacks, blues
More experimentation with pattern and fabric in recent years
14. Fabrics In early times: flax, linen Silk via China,
originally a luxury o The finer the silk (= fewer slubs and
imperfections) the better quality Cotton reaches Japan late, via
trade routes to India. o Initially seen as somewhat
prestigious
15. Fabrics (continued) By the late 19th century, silk becoming
more widely available 20th + 21st century: Silk is most formal,
rayon is a less expensive substitute Western options: high quality
satins, crepe silks, satin- weave cottons
16. Embellishment techniques Dyeing - Indigo works on
cotton/linen/hemp tricky to use still used (jeans!)
17. Embellishment techniques Shibori Japanese 'tie-dye' used
most often with indigo
18. Embellishment techniques Dyeing - Silk very easy to dye
vibrant colors lots of techniques
19. Embellishment techniques Stencil Dyeing traditionally paste
resist modern alternatives available
20. Embellishment techniques Embroidery Silk or rayon floss
Metallic thread couching
21. Embellishment Techniques (cont.) Painting Metallic paints
Matte paints not traditionally used, but a simpler alternative to
dyeing
22. Embellishment Techniques (cont.) Applique traditionally
used on lower-class clothing can be a substitute for painting or
dyeing fabric
23. Patterns Traditional layout uses as few cuts as possible,
from narrow-width fabric - everything is rectangles! Online
patterns and tutorials 'Make Your Own Japanese Clothes Round Earth
hakama pattern
24. Non-Kimono Garments Techniques used for other garments too
LOTS of accessories - sometimes easier to buy.
25. Useful Links http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm -
diagrams and models of Heian-era clothes
http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm -
kimono and hakama tutorials http://www.round-earth.com/index.html -
patterns for multiple garments http://www.folkwear.com/asian.html -
patterns for multiple garments
http://sarcasm-hime.net/tipscosplay.html - hakama tutorial
http://www.dharmatrading.com/ - fabric and supplies for dyeing
http://www.fabrictales.com/STORE/store.cgi?product=chirimen_solid -
rayon chirimen http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html - rarer
garments with photos and descriptions Find us at:
http://momijizukamori.tumblr.com - Cocoa
http://pinnedtogether.tumblr.com - Andy
26. References & Resources Dalby, Liza. Kimono: Fashioning
Culture. Seattle: U of Washington, 2001. Print. Dobson, Jenni.
Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes. London: Batsford, 2008. Print.
Koike, Yoko, Kumiko Kozakai, and Tomomi Ahiko. Sashiko Style:
Traditional Japanese Patterns for Contemporary Design. Japan:
Co-published by Japan Publications Trading, and Joie, 2007. Print.
Kure, Mitsuo. Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume. Edison, NJ: Chartwell,
2007. Print. Marshall, John. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes:
Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear. Tokyo: Kodansha International,
1988. Print. Tamura, Shuji. The Techniques of Japanese Embroidery.
Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 1998. Print. Hakama Pattern, Round
Earth Publishing:
http://roundearth.stores.yahoo.net/hakformarar.html