20th December 2013 Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 1
KITL
Innovations in Textiles for “Footprint” Reduction
20th December 2013 Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 2
KITL Kothari InfoTech Limited
Since 2001, from Surat, India to provide Solutions for Digital Printing on various substrates
Inks Division: Inks Division: Water based high density Charu™Charu™ inks and Disha™Disha™ pre-coatings for Textile substrates(Cotton ,Viscose, Linen, Silk, Wool, Nylon and Polyester)
Textile Machinery Division: Textile Machinery Division: Sales and after sales service for “Ichinose” “Ichinose” printing machines(both conventional and digital)““Rimslow” Rimslow” Loopager for Inkjet textile printing. “DTG Digital” “DTG Digital” for garment printing. “DigiEye” “DigiEye” for non contact colour measurement and QC
Software: Software: Print Pro™, Print Pro™, world class software, for Colour Separation, Colour Correction, Device calibration, Half-toning, Large image data handling, Digital Imaging, Textile coloration, Image composing and Printing. These applications are targeted towards , label printing as well as Wide/Large format digital printing for graphic arts, photography, and Textiles(fabric and garments).
20th December 2013 Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 3
KITL Water and Energy in Textile processing
ground-water contamination
Soilcontamination
NO xCO2
UFP‘s
CH4
SO2
water
raw material
energy waste water
waste
products
emission
noise
work place
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KITL Carbon Footprint
A Carbon Footprint is a measure of the impact human activities have on the environment in terms of the amount of green house gases produced, measured in units of carbon dioxide
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KITL Global warming
Global warming refers to the increase in average
temperature of the Earths near-surface, air and
oceans in recent decades
The global average air temperature
near earths surface rose
0.74 ± 0.18°C during last 100 years.
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KITL Global Warming
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KITL Global Warming
1 Trillion = 10%Kilowatt hours used every of the total Carbon ImpactKilowatt hours used every of the total Carbon ImpactYear by the global TextileYear by the global TextileIndustryIndustry
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KITL
The water footprint of an individual, community or business is defined as the total volume of freshwater used to produce the goods and services consumed by the individual or community or produced by the business.
Water use is measured in water volume consumed (evaporated) and/or polluted per unit of time. A water footprint can be calculated for any well-defined group of consumers (e.g., an individual, family, village, city, province, state or nation) or producers (e.g., a public organization, private enterprise or economic sector).
Water Footprint
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KITL Environmental impacts of the textile Industry
Chemicals
•25% of the chemicals produced worldwide are used for textiles
» Environmental impact
Water
•Growing of cotton: 8’000 – 40’000 L / kg cotton•Finishing of textiles: up to 700 L freshwater / kg
textile•Waste water in production: up to 600 L / kg textile» Mostly drinking water quality
Energy
•High energy consumption in production, transport, retail and use
» Contribution to global warming
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KITL Definition of a Pollutant
Pollutant is a substance present in the wrong place at the wrong time and in the wrong quantity
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KITL Hazardous Chemicals
Textile wet processing• Accounts for 17-20% of Industrial water pollution
• 72 Toxic Chemicals originate solely from Dyeing
30 of which cannot be removed
9 Trillion 9 Trillion litres of litres of fresh water fresh water is used is used annually to annually to produce 60 produce 60 billion kg of billion kg of fabricfabric
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KITL Fresh water availability
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KITL Effect of Pollution
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KITL
“Invention” can be defined as the creation of a product or introduction of a process for the first time. “Innovation” on the other hand, occurs if someone improves on or makes a significant contribution to an existing product, process or service.
Definition
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KITL
1. Institutions – which are often neglected but are where the innovations happen.2. Markets – where the demand and the finance comes from and3. Technologies – which go hand in hand with innovations
“Innovation is about the smart application of knowledge to solve problems more imaginatively than we have in the past.”
Shaping Innovations
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KITL
EcologyLegislationCostNew SubstrateNew ProcessSpeed for economicsFashion and advertisementProductivity constraintSustainability
Change Agents
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KITL
It is not the strongest of the species that survive, nor the most intelligent
But the most responsive to change
Charles Darwin
Theory of Evolution
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KITL
• Products and processes
• Water Consumption
• Sustainable Fibres
• Coloration without dyes
Innovations pertaining to
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KITL
Natural dyes derived from plant material do not have the problems associated with synthetic yes ,like banned amines ,PCB,PAH etc, however they cannot be used on polyesters
O
O
OH
OHCH3CH2I
KOH, DMSO
alizarin1,2-dihydroxyanthraquinone
O
O
OH
O
1-hydroxy-2-ethylanthraquinone
+ KI, H2O
Natural colours
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KITL
• Reactive dyes having a quartenary nicotinate
• Cationic Reactive Dyes
• Avitera™
• Pigments for Polyesters
• Dyestone™
Colours
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KITL
• Use of Sugars in Sulphur dyeing
•Pre-treatment of cellulose with cationic, nucleophilic polymers to enable reactive dyeing at neutral pH without electrolyte addition
•Enzymes for polyester and also for imparting hydrophilicity oligomer removal
Auxiliaries
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KITL
Fabric
E control™, Pad-Sizeox™
Garments
A blend of “color” and “softener”
Enzyme with tint
Provides ONE STEP stone-wash and tinting effect, abrasion, surface polishing, de-pilling, and body softness on Indigo denim garments.
Enzymatic single bath desizing-bleaching-dyeing process for cotton fabrics
Processes
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KITL PrimaGreen® Process from Genecor
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KITL G2 Process from Jeanologia
Air from the atmosphere is transformed into a blend of active oxygen and ozone called Plasma, which is used to age garments.The plasma is transformed back into purified air before being returned to the atmosphere
Agedgarments
Plasma
Air
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KITL Coloured Silk Cocoons
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KITL Waterless dyeing
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KITL Supercritical COO
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KITL
A fabric roll in the chamber
Control panelPressure storage vessel,
pumps and pipework
SCOO - Machines
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KITL SCOO - Process
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KITL Process
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KITL Process
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KITL Cotton Art-Transfer printing of Natural fabrics- German Dutch
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KITL Ink Jet Printing
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KITL The Digital Advantage • Advantages• No minimums• On demand manufacturing• Efficient sampling• No repeat size• No limit on colors• No color kitchen• No screen engraving• No screen warehousing• No limit on design size• Flexible design possibilities• Reduced waste• Reduced manpower• Environmentally Friendly
• Disappearing Disadvantages• Speed• Cost• Replication of screen prints
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KITL Printers
Printer Classification
Class 14-12 metres per hour
Class 218-90 metres per hour
Class 390-730 metres per hour
Class 465-75 metres per minute
Key FeaturesKey Features
Ability to transport wide variety of fabrics through printer
Able to deliver variety of textile ink chemistries through print head
Either open or closed system for ink and software
DTG-Digitex
MS
Durst
Digitex
Ichinose
Konica MinoltaKonica MinoltaKornit
La Meccanica
Mimaki
Mutoh
OsirisOsirisReggianni
Roland
D-Gen
ZimmerZimmer
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KITL Variables
Ricoh
Epson
Xaar (solvent)
Kyocera
Spectra
Konica Minolta
Fuji Diamatix
HP Scitex
Seico Printek
Kothari Info Tech- KITL
DuPont
Nazdar
Huntsman
Jaysynth
DyStar
Sawgrass
Solunaris/ Jay Chemicals
Print Pro- KITL
Ergosoft
DP innovations
Caldera
DGS
Inedit
Wasatch
Nippon KayakuNippon Kayaku
Heads InksRIPs
StorkStork
Fuji SericolFuji Sericol
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KITL How Green is the Process
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KITL Washing Processes
• 170 gms Cotton T shirt LCA• 2653 litres water ( 45% is
in the usage- 1193 litres• 90 gm fertilizer• 45 gm pesticide• 540 gm fossil fuel
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KITL
• Ozone laundry systems• Replacement of water with polymers• Self cleaning
Washing of garments
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KITL Ozone laundry systems
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KITL
Xeros
Reduction in water during usage
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KITL Problem of Microplastic in Waterways
Microplastic= Plastic debris <1mm
Shorelines at 18 sites across 6 continents contaminated
Forensic evaluation revealed that the microplastic resembled PES and acrylic fibres used in clothing, mainly those sites which receive sewage effluent
PES (67%), Acrylic(17%) and Polyamide(16%)
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KITL Microplastic- the future
A single garment when washed in a machine can shed >1900 fibres per wash
Designers of clothing and washing machines should consider the need to reduce the release and develop methods to remove microplastic from sewage.
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KITL
MinicorCatalytic clothing
Self cleaning fabrics
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KITL Sunlight Washing, Clothes
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KITL
• Eco viscose
Modal Edelweiss™
• Soya• Bamboo
Sustainable, natural, anti bacterial, breathable and cool
Fibres
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KITL
• PLA, Ingeo®, Sorona®
• >Mooo®
Fibres
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KITL Eco Friendly Garments
• Organic Cotton farming requires 25% less water than traditional cotton.• Bamboo: No pesticides required and the fabric is soft to touch • Lycoell: Solvent is recovered/recycled. It is an alternate to Rayon.• Ingeo: This is a man-made fiber by converting corn into a polymer to
make bio- degradable material. It is breathable and has insulation properties of high-performing synthetic material. Requires 68% less energy than polyester and is biodegradable.
• Hemp: A pound of hemp fiber needs a fraction of water needed for a pound of cotton. It does not require pesticides.
• Soy: Soy fabrics use a by-product of Soy Products, namely Soy Milk, Soybean Oil to create a material with a feel and look similar to silk.
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KITL Eco Friendly ? !
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KITL How green is my T-Shirt
4 7 2 18
9 3 1 2
Raw Material
Cotton T-Shirt
Polyester Blouse
Manufacturing Transportation Use
Cotton is cheaper and takes less energy to manufacture than synthetic fibres.But over its lifetime , a cotton T- Shirt requires more than twice the energy than is necessary to manufacture and maintain a polyester blouse. The main difference: polyester garments can be washed at a lower temperature, can hang dry and need no ironing.
Energy used over the life time of the garment, in kilowatt hours.*
Use assumes 25 washes per garment. The cotton T-Shirt is washed at 140 degrees Fahrenheit, followed by tumble-drying and ironing.
The energy of one kilowatt hour will operate a 40-watt light bulb for a full day or a 19” color television for about four hours.
The polyester blouse is washed at 104 degrees Fahrenheit, hung dry and not ironed.
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KITLFermentation Fashion Microbe garments
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KITL Bio couture
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KITL Monster Silk - Spider Silk
Kraig Biocraft Laboratories, the leading developer of advanced spider silk based fibres, has this month delivered the first shipment of its Monster Silk™ recombinant spider silk fibre to Warwick Mills.
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KITL Invisibility
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KITL
3µm
Morpho rhetenor butterfly Peacock feather
Coloration without colorants
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KITL
Teijin Fiber Corporation
Multilayer Optical Interference
MORPHOTEX®
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KITL Fibres imitating Margaritaria Nobilis
Harvard University and University of Exeter,UK
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KITL
Plixel Color Printing*
* A Star Exploit Technologies
Coloration without colours
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KITL
“I think there is a world market for maybe fiveComputers” Thomas Watson, Chairman of IBM, 1943
“Computers in the future may weigh no more than 1.5 tonnes” Popular Mechanics, 1949
“There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home” Ken Olson, Present, Chairman and
Founder of Digital Equipment Corp, 1977
“640k [of RAM] ought to be enough for anybody” Bill Gates, Chairman of Microsoft,1981
Dangers of Prediction
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KITL Endangered species extinction of business
Do not merely react to change
Anticipate and initiate change
Equilibrium is extinction
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KITL
Friday, December 6, 2013 Understanding Environmental Requirements Dr. Sanjiv Kamat 62
Hidden cost of FoodHypothetical carbon footprint calculation of Red wines sold in New York
Manufactured in Cultivation Fermentation Winery Containers Transportation TOTAL
Lore Valley France 210 109 132 479 447 1371
Napa Valley California 214 109 132 633 1425 2515
Emissions are released by using energy to manage the land.Organic methods in France reduce this slightly
Carbon dioxide is a byproduct of the chemical reaction that creates alcohol, a process that begins wityh grape crushing
Energy used for lights, cooling tanks and pumps all result in carbondioxide emmissions
Glass for bottles and wood for barrels-often purchased in France-require energy to make and fuel to import
The napa wine is trucked to New York while the French wine is shipped for most of the trip and then trucked
Grammes of Carbon dioxide per bottle
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