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T E C H N I Q U E S A N D D E S I G N S F O R
C U S T O M J E W E L R Y C O M P O N E N T S
denise peckjane dicker son
handcraftedwire findings
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Use wire in a whole new way in this clasp:
first create small silver spheres, then fuse
them to a handmade r ing and toggle for a
three-dimensional f inish.
Spool of 12-gauge fine silverdead-soft wire
Spool of 18-gauge fine
silver wire Spool of 14-gauge fine silver
dead-soft wire Ring mandrel Flush cutters File Fireproof work surface Blazer micro torch Soldering block Fusing pliers Quenching bowl
Ball-peen hammer Steel bench block Rawhide or nylon mallet Toothpick Honey or flux Tweezers Liver of sulfur Rotary tumbler with mixed
stainless steel shot
Finished size:Ring: 78" (21.5 mm);Toggle: 18" x 1" (3 x 35 mm)
mater ials + tools
handcraft ed wire f indings2
decorative balls toggle clasp
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Fig.1
Fig.2
Fig.3
Fig.4
1 Working from the spool of 12-gauge wire, wrap the wire
around the size 6 mark on the ring mandrel to make ajump ring (Fig. 1). Flush cut and file the ends of the wire
so they meet with no gap.
R I N G
3decorative bal ls toggle clasp
2 Place the ring on the soldering block and light the
torch. Holding the torch about 1" (3.8 cm) from the
ring, rotate the flame around the ring in a circle, slowly
heating the whole surface. When the ring glows,
concentrate the flame on the join until it flows together
(Fig. 2). Turn off the torch. Use fusing pliers to dip the
ring in the quenching bowl to cool, then dry.
3 If necessary, reshape the ring on the mandrel using a
rawhide or nylon mallet (Fig. 3).
4 Use the ball-peen hammer and bench block to hammerthe ring flat (Fig. 4). Set aside.
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Fig.5
Fig.8
Fig.7
Fig.6
B A L L S
5 Cut the 18-gauge wire into five 38" (1 cm) snippets.
Spread the pieces out on the soldering block (Fig. 5).
Light the torch and heat the pieces until each forms a
ball (Fig. 6). Turn off the torch. Use the fusing pliers to dip
each ball in the quenching bowl to cool, then dry.
6 Place the ring from Step 4 on the soldering block. Use
the toothpick to place 3 drops of honey or flux on theflattened ring where you would like the balls to be
attached(Fig. 7). Use tweezers to place the balls on the
honey or flux (Fig. 8).
7 Light the torch. Starting with a medium flame and the
torch about 4" (10 cm) from the ring, rotate the flamearound the ring to gently heat the entire surface. If a ball
falls off the ring, replace it and begin again. When the
flux or honey stops bubbling, move the torch closer to
handcraft ed wire f indings4
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Fig.9 Fig.10
Fig.11
Fig.12
T O G G L E
8 Working from the spool of 14-gauge wire, flush cut the
end, then grasp the wire 1" (2.5 cm) from the end with
the tip of the round-nose pliers. Wrap both sides of the
wire around the jaw, crossing them until they form a
straight bar (Fig. 10). Cut the wire off the spool, leaving58" (1.5 cm) from the loop. Trim the other side of the bar to
the same length.
9 Use the hammer and bench block to flatten each end
of the toggle into a paddle (Fig. 11). Use the file to round
each end.
10Use fusing pliers to dig a trough in the soldering block
to hold the loop of the toggle bar flat on the block. Using
a toothpick, place a tiny drop of honey or flux near the
the ring and rotate it around the ring until both the ring
and the balls glow. Keep the torch moving until the ring
and balls fuse together (Fig. 9). Be careful not to hold the
flame too close to the balls or they will completely melt
into the ring.Turn off the torch. Use fusing pliers to dip
the ring in the quenching bowl to cool, then dry. File any
burs, if necessary.
decorative bal ls toggle clasp
end of one paddle where you want to attach a ball
(Fig. 12). Use tweezers to place the ball on the drop of
honey. Light the torch. Starting with the torch about 4"
(10 cm) from the toggle, gently heat the ball end of the
toggle. When the flux or honey stops bubbling, move thetorch closer to the toggle and move it back and forth
until both the paddle and the ball glow. Keep the torch
moving until the paddle and ball fuse together.
5
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handcraft ed wire f indings6
Kidney Ear Wires Lasso Link
Asian Toggle Clasp Wired Ring Link
Hammered Ring ConnectorBall-end Hook and Eye Clasp
gallery
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gal l ery 7
Introduction
Wire BasicsTools
Techniques
F I N D I N G S
Ear Wi r es : :
Circle Loop Ear Wires
Kidney Ear Wires
Double-Loop French Ear Wires
Beaded French Ear Wires
Tumbleweed French Ear Wires Fiddlehead Ear Wires
Vine Ear Wires
Circle Post Ear Wires
Spiral Post Ear Wires
Li nk s & C onnector s : :
Fused Oval Link
Decorative Fused Ring
Hammered Ring Connector
Sailors Knot Link Wired Ring Link
Twisted Link with Bead
Textured Corkscrew Link
Stick Link
Lasso Link
Figure-Eight Link
Yin-Yang Link
contents
S C l asps : :
Hammered S Clasp Ball-End Hammered S Clasp
Ball-End Textured S Clasp
S Clasp with Bead
H ook C l asps : :
Ball-End Hook and Eye Clasp
Oversized Wrapped Simple Hook
Vine Hook
Double Hook and Eye Clasp
Toggle Clasps : :
Hammered Toggle Clasp
Asian Toggle Clasp
Twisted Toggle Clasp
Ball-End Toggle Clasp
Lashed Toggle Clasp
Decorative Balls Toggle Clasp
M i scel l aneous : :
Ribbon Bail Knot Spacer
Tumbleweed Spacer
Resources
Index
Hammered S Clasp
Sailors Knot Link
Twisted Link wi th Bead
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Why spend hundreds of dollars stocking up on expensive manufactured
clasps, jump rings, ear wires, bails, and more when you can make exactly what
you need for a fraction of the cost? Making custom findings enables jewelry
makers to affordably create just the right component to complement their own
jewelry designs.
With fundamental skills for beginners that progress to more sophisticated
designs, Handcrafted Wire Findingscovers techniques such as basic wirework,
texturizing, silver fusing, adding patina, and traditional finishes.
Included are over 30 projects for making custom wire findings, each
accompanied by step-by-step photographs and directions to ensure success.
Denise Peckis the editor of Step by Step Wire Jewelrymagazine. She is also
the author of the best-selling books 101 Wire Earrings andWire Styleand the
forthcoming Wire Style 2. She lives in Pennsylvania.
Jane Dickersonwas the editor of Creative Jewelrymagazine and is the author
of Chain Style.
Paperback
8 x 9, 128 pages
ISBN 978-1-59668-283-2
$22.95
Available June 2011
add personal style at minimal cost
with custom-made findings