Download - El Mocho, Aguja del S and Cerro Adela Sur.aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/aaj/... · On December 26 Bortoli, Carnati and Colombo reached the summit. A year before, in

Transcript
Page 1: El Mocho, Aguja del S and Cerro Adela Sur.aac-publications.s3.amazonaws.com/documents/aaj/... · On December 26 Bortoli, Carnati and Colombo reached the summit. A year before, in

El Mocho, Aguja del S and Cerro Adela Sur . Giancarlo Grassi, M. Rossi and R. Pe climbed in the Fitz Roy region in November and December of 1986 . They climbed the “Todo o Nada” couloir on the southeast face of El Mocho on November 18. The face has two prominent pillars which encase a deep ice couloir which is continuously steep and in places vertical . This may be the most difficult ice climb yet done in Patagonia. The left pillar had been climbed by Jim Bridwell . The same three Italians on December 6 and 7 made a new route, the right pillar which they called “Bizcochuelo.” The 15-pitch climb was on ex­tremely difficult rock with passages of up to UIAA VII + . On November 30 the same three climbed the Aguja del S (“S Needle”) in the Saint Exupéry group from the Torre Glacier. This difficult climb on the northwest face rose 1300 meters, of which 700 meters were in a 40° to 50° couloir, 400 meters on cracks, 100 easy meters and 140 meters on the final rock pyramid. The last climb was done by Grassi and Rossi on December 9 and 10. The pair ascended Cerro Adela Sur (c . 2900 meters, 9515 feet) by its northeast face. From the Adela Glacier they climbed through crevasses up two vertical slopes . After bypassing a rock band on the right, they continued up extremely steep, up to vertical , ice to emerge on the summit ridge just right of the top . (This information was kindly furnished by Giancarlo Grassi and Luciano Ghigo.)