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Cycle sewing machines
Simple automatics
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Cycle sewing machinesMachines that sew short,automatic cycles
Buttonhole Button sew
Bar tack
Label
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Button hole machine
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Button hole machine
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Variables in buttonhole machine
Size of button hole
Form of button hole The stitch type
Stitch bight
Stitch density Cut before/cut after
Presence /absence of gimp
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Eyelet and straight buttonholes with or
without taper
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Button hole types Bound button holes
Loop buttonholes Straight button holes
Key buttonholes
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Lockstitch / Chain stitch Security
Finished appearance Relative cost (capital and operating)
Garment type
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cut before/cut after selector
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Cut before /cut after Finished Appearance
Repositioning is possible after cyclebegins
Fabric flagging slightly at the edge
e.g.:formal jacketsjeans
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Gimp Stiff thread positioned at the edge of
buttonhole
Provides reinforcement to preserve itsshape
Provides bulk to raise the the purl effectof the stitch
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Button sew machinesVariables
No. of holes2
4
Form of stitchingParallel
Cross-over
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Variables Size and shape of the button
1 Ligne = 1/40 of an inchBridge is a distance from end of the
shank to the edge of the hole
This is the distance needle must travel toattach the shanked button.
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Button types Holed buttons
Wrapped thread shank Shanked buttons
Tacked buttons(Cap,Disk,Shank andTack)
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Variables Shank
1.
Without shank2. Thread shank Spacing finger
3. With shank
Stitch typeLock stitch
Chain stitch
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Variables Hooper feed automatically feed button from
the Hooper, face-up, into the tube,that
carries to button clamp. Sequential machines - Automatic system have
button indexers with automatic spacers thatmoves garment for placement of multiple
button Button hole with hand sewn appearance
stitch type -209
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Motors Two types of motors
1. Clutch motors
2. Continuous running motors
Continuous running motors is used for stopmotion sewing machine that do specific no.
of stitches in a given pattern. Eg., button hole, button sew, bar tack, etc.
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Specifications: Needle:TQ*1 Size-16; TQ*7 Size-16
(14 to 16)
Oil :Defrix Oil no.1 Movement of Button holder while
attaching:Sidewise and then forward andthen again sidewise.
Looper:Blind looper or spreader.Looper doesnot carry thread but helps the needle to formloop.
Movement of needle and looper
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Feed - Platform feed Carries the fabric on platform which is situate
above the machine bed
Plane of platform is parallel to bed plane Platform resembles miniature pancake
spatula
It has a needle hole or slot and it is called as
kinetic throat plate Platform feed has foot clamp as
complementary foot link to secure the fabricduring feed cycle
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Stitch length and width Setting no.of stitches by changing
CAM knob and lever.
Stitch length is regulated by changinglength of feed thrust
Stitch width is regulated by controlling
length of needle vibration
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Placement Button
Button hole
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Measuring Up
For a flat button, the buttonhole length should be the diameter of the button, plus
1/8".
For fat buttons, add the button's height and
width, plus 1/8".
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Bar tacking Sew number of stitches across the point
to be reinforced and then stitch
covering stitch over and right angle tothe first stitches
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Variables No. of tacking stitch
No. of covering stitch
Zigzag / purl stitch
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Usage End of button holes
End of pocket opening
Bottom of flies
Sewing on belt loops
Crotch seams Government, military, and emergencyservice uniforms are heavily bar tacked
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Manufacturers Feiyue
Juki
Brother
Taiko
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Label sewers Stitching simple zig-zag stitches.
Profile stitchers
Specially shaped cylinder bed machine
Automatic lockstitch machine
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Manufacturers Juki
Brother
Taiko