Population:Approx. 4 million
Currency:1 Euro = 100 cent
Opening hours:Mon and Wed: 09-14.30, Tue,Thu, Fri. 09-14.30, 17.30-20.30,Sat 09-15.00. Other openingtimes may be found.
Internet:www.gnto.grwww.gtp.grwww.thegreektravel.comNewspapers:Athens News is anEnglish-language newspaperpublished every Friday.
Emergency numbers:Police 100Fire 199Ambulance 166
Tourist information:Tsoha 24, AthensTel: +30 210 870 70 00www.eot.gr
ATHENSPUBLISHING DATE: 2009-07-02 | COUNTRY CODE: GRContents: The City, Do & See, Eating, Cafés, Bars & Nightlife, Shopping,Sleeping, Essential Information, Maps
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ATHENSOf all Europe’s capitals, Athens is probably the one that haschanged the most in recent years. But even though Athenshas become a modern metropolis, it still retains a good dealof its old small town feel. Here antiquity meets the future,and the ancient monuments form a classical backdrop to anew and trendier Athens – and it is precisely these greatcontrasts that make the city such a fascinating place toexplore.
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THE CITY #THECITY#
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Athens’ heyday was around 400 yearsbefore Christ – that’s when most of theclassical monuments were built. During theByzantine and Turkish eras, the citydecayed into just an insignificant littlevillage, only to become the capital ofnewly-liberated Greece in 1833.
Ahead of the 2004 Olympics, almost theentire infrastructure was transformed, andthe Metro, trams, new ring roads andviaducts have eased the pressure of theheavy traffic. Athens is still a rather messyand chaotic place – it wouldn’t be Athensotherwise – and despite all theimprovements, still retains a great deal ofits oriental charm. The whole coastalstretch from Piraeus to the old Hellenikonairport has been improved with newplantings, viaducts and paths for walking.The Plaka quarter is becoming morepopular, and is on the way to catching upwith Psyrri, Gazi and Rouf as regardsrestaurants. Discover the right places inthe Anafiotika district, at the feet of theAcropolis, and you will find it still has avillage feel in the midst of the city. InExarchia, there is still a somewhatin-your-face anarchic atmosphere aroundthe Technical University. Meanwhile,Kolonaki is becoming more and more chic.
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DO & SEE #DOANDSEE#
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National Archaeological MuseumHere you will find Ancient Greece’s mostspectacular pieces. One room containsSchliemann’s finds from Mycenae. Thefamous frescoes from Santorini are ondisplay. There is also a fine collection ofidols from the Cyclades, and ceramics.
Address: Patission 44, MuseioPhone: +30 210 821 77 24
The Acropolis and its surroundingsThe Parthenon, the temple of Athena, isthe major attraction. There is also theErechteion, whose columns are statues ofthe female Caryatids, though the originalstatues have been replaced by copiesbecause of air pollution.
On the southern slopes of the Acropolis liesthe Odeon of Herodes Atticus, a Romantheatre with room for as many as 5,000spectators. It is used during the annualAthens Festival for world-class ballet andmusic performances. The Dionysus Theatre
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lies beside Herodes Atticus, and almost allthe tragedies and comedies of AncientGreece were written for this theatre.
AgoraThis was both a marketplace and a politicalcentre. The Agora is dominated by theStoa of Attalus and the Theseion, orHephaisteion, dedicated to the god ofmetalworking and also to Theseus, one ofthe heroes of Greek mythology.
Address: Monastiraki
BenakiA history museum with many objects fromthe Stone Age up to the War ofIndependence against the Turks. In theannexe there are often very interestingseparate exhibitions.
Address: 1 Koumbari St. & Vas. Sofias Ave.Phone: +30 210 367 10 00Internet: www.benaki.gr
Museum of Contemporary Art (EMST)Until the middle of 2009, when theMuseum building will have been completedand will open its doors to the audience, theunder construction permanent collectionsare presented in periodical exhibitions.Plenty of video art and experimentalinstallations.
Address: Vassileos Georgiou Β 17 -19 & Rigillis StreetPhone: + 30 210 924 21 11-2Internet: www.emst.gr
EATING #EATING#
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In the Psyrri district, the former handicraftworkshops have been converted to trendyrestaurants and cafés, and this hascontinued out to Gazi and Rouf. Manychefs came ‘home’ from Australia orAmerica, carrying granny’s recipes in theirluggage, and were appalled at the Turkishmenus. You can still find simple tavernsserving good home fare, but it is the ”new”Greek cuisine that has been winning all thelaurels.
To KioupiTraditional taverna, sandwiched betweenall the trendy cafés, down some steps, andyou point to the food you want on thecounter. Reasonable prices, and acomplete contrast to life in the KolonakiSquare above.
Address: Plateia Kolonakiou 4, KolonakiPhone: +30 210 361 40 33Internet: www.tokioupi.gr
PsarasCentrally located seafood taverna, datingfrom 1898. Paintings by the painterSavakis can be seen on the bare stonewalls. The open-air restaurant winds itsway up and down the narrow alleyway.
Address: 16 Erechtheos, PlakaPhone: +30 210 321 87 33Internet: www.psaras-taverna.gr/en/
SpondiThe best restaurant in Athens – and inGreece, according to many visitors. AFrench chef has put together the menu,and created a renowned wine cellar.Simplicity is the motto at this restaurant,which for years has been winning all theprizes there are to be won.
Address: Pyrronos 5, PangratiPhone: +30 210 756 40 21Internet: www.spondi.gr
Taverna Tou PsyrriA typical local, with old photographs on thewalls. The place is usually full to the brim
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with people munching their way throughhearty portions of traditional Greek food,or tasty little dishes of meze, washed downwith wine from the barrel.
Address: 12 Eschylou, PsyrriPhone: +30 210 321 49 23
To ZeidoronA mezedopoleio, serving delicious food onone of the most popular street corners inPsyrri. The restaurant is also very popularbecause of its nice atmosphere.
Address: Agion Anagyron 17/Taki 10, PsyrriPhone: +30 210 321 53 68
Aristera-dexiaGoing like a steam train, and has wonseveral prizes for its creative Greek cuisineand excellent wine cellar. Regarded as oneof the best restaurants in Athens.
Address: Andronikou 3, Gazi/RoufPhone: +30 210 342 23 80
Taverna XinosA musical taverna that ought to have apreservation order on it! A rickety shed ina back yard, with fantastic wall paintings.It is as crazy as the musicians who performthere, but utterly genuine, just like thehome cooking they serve.
Address: Geronda 4, PlakaPhone: +30 210 322 10 65
CAFÉS #CAFES#
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Athenians love to sit in a kafeneion,sipping Greek coffee or frappé, iced coffee.
But these days the new fashion for caffelatte and cappucino is gaining ground.
PlakaAround the central square in Plaka thereare lots of similar cafes where you canhave a frappé, read a newspaper andwatch the world go by.
Address: Kydathineon
Caffé PerosKolonaki Square’s central point, wheresooner or later everyone you know willpass by. A place for ladies and gentlemenpartaking of coffee under a canopy. Openall year round.
Address: Plateia Kolonakiou, Kolonaki
Da CapoIf Peros is posh, Da Capo is trendy. Herethe younger smart set gather aftershopping, or before going on somewhereelse in the evening.
Address: Plateia Kolonakiou, Kolonaki
BARS & NIGHTLIFE #BARSANDNIGHTLIFE#
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Athens is not really a city of fine bars – forthat you should visit some of theinternational hotels. On the other hand,there are lots of combined bars/cafés thatserve both. Often combined with somefood, as it is the Greek custom to eat alittle snack to go with drinks. In thesummer, much of the night life moves outto Glyfada and Vouliagmenis along the
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coast.
Grand BretagneThis bar in the classic old hotel has agenuine turn-of-the-century, well-to-dofeel, and has had a facelift, making it oneof the top meeting places in Athens.
Address: Constitution Square
De LuxLies just below the new Acropolis Museum,and is popular with the media crowd. Alsoserves food.
Address: Falirou 15, Makroyanni
CityThe place to mingle under the trees in thispleasantly shady little side street, whereone bar merges into the next. Bar Mousaand the fine Azul restaurant are wall towall.
Address: 220 College Street
Psyrri, Gazi, RoufThe area beyond Monastiraki has livenedup with many restaurants, bars and clubsgoing on well into the night. Look out forAstron, Taki 3 or Bee,
Address: Miaouli & Themidos
ExarchiaThe area around the Technical Universityhas got rock clubs such as An, Solomon 13and Rodon, Marni 24.
SHOPPING #SHOPPING#
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The best shopping streets areVoukourestiou, Patriarhou Ioakim, Skoufa,Tsakalof, Kanari and the side streetsaround Kolonaki. There are many designerclothes, expensive boutiques and jewellers.Try for example Emporiko Centro, anexclusive galleria of several floors withgold, ties, clocks and watches, glasses anda Gucci boutique. In this area is also OldAthens, a shoe and handbag shop with a1960s flavour, when ladies wore glovesand pearl necklaces à la Jackie O and MariaCallas. The shop owner was a fashioneditor before setting up on his own, puttingGreek handmade accessories on the map.
Ermou has become the main street forshoes, and on Mitropoleos, from Syntagmadown to Monastiraki, you can also buyhandbags and shoes. Here too is thecovered market hall which occupies awhole block, with the fish market in themiddle. All around are butchers and spiceshops, and around the market are severalsimple but good places to eat. Like onionsoup in the Paris markets, here you eatpatsa or tripe soup to ease the effects ofouzo.
SLEEPING #SLEEPING#
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The standard of hotels has markedlyimproved thanks to the Olympics – andwas certainly needed. The prices shownare for the high season; prices are lower inthe low and intermediate seasons.
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EXCLUSIVEGrand BretagneThis famous old classic has been fullyrenovated and restored to its former glory.This is where people on State visits andother celebrities stay when they are intown. Even so, you can visit the bar andrestaurant GB Corner without burning ahole in your wallet.
Address: Constitution SquarePhone: +30 210 333 00 00Internet: www.grandebretagne.gr
Hotel AchilleasGreat location near Kolokotroni and theErmou shopping street for this little hotelwith a striking entrance and designerlobby. The rooms don’t all live up to thestandard of the entrance, but are definitelyokay.
Address: Lekka 21, SyntagmaPhone: +30 210 323 31 97Internet: www.achilleashotel.gr
GOOD VALUECecilNewly renovated, but has retained itspre-war charm with high ceilings andperiod furnishings. Near the market hall,and within walking distance of therestaurant scene in Psyrri. A value formoney alternative.
Address: Athinas 39, PsyrriPhone: +30 210 321 70 79Internet: www.cecil.gr
AdonisCentral quiet location, surrounded bypedestrian precincts, and near Syntagma.From the terrace on the roof, a view of theAcropolis and the rest of the city. Simpleand functional with shower, central heatingand TV. AC costs extra.
Address: 3 Kodroy & Voulis StPhone: +30 210 324 97 37Internet: www.hotel-adonis.gr
BASICPhaedraSmall simple medium class hotel near theLysicrates monument, with everything thatPlaka has to offer.
Address: Lisicratous/Cherefontos 16, PlakaPhone: +30 210 323 84 61
ESSENTIAL INFORMATION
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AirportEleftherios Venizelos is at Spata, 33kilometres (20 miles) southeast of Athens.A taxi in to the city costs €20-30depending on arrival time and the numberof suitcases. The airport bus to Syntagmatakes just under an hour and costs €3.20.The Metro goes to the centre and costs €8.The Metro journey to Syntagma takes 27minutes, and the journey to Piraeus takes60 minutes.
Phone: +30 210 353 00 00Internet: www.aia.gr
Public TransportThe new Metro stations are well worthseeing, and are kept spotlessly clean.There is a tram from the centre to Glyfada.
Buses and trolley buses run until midnight.
The airport bus ticket is valid on otherpublic transport services for 24 hours.There are various travel cards on sale atticket offices.
Ferries out to the islands leave from theharbour in Pireus or from Rafina. Boattimetables at www.gtp.gr
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TaxiThere are lots of taxis, but here it isnormal to share a taxi, so don’t besurprised if the driver picks up additionalpassengers along the road who are goingin the same direction. The drivers havetaximeters and fixed prices.
PostStamps can be bought in mosttobacconists and kiosks selling postcards.
PharmacyDoctor on duty, pharmacy 1434
DentistDoctor on duty, pharmacy 1434
TelephoneCountry code: +30 for Greece,
Area code: 210 for Athens
Electricity230 volts
#ESSENTIALINFORMATION#
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