Ascent of Mount Rainier (14,410’)May 24-26, 2005
My buddy Brian Hynek and I decided to attempt Mt. Rainier since we were in
Washington for a 7-leg Adventure Race the following weekend. As we drove to
the climb we watched the mountain grow and grow on the horizon. It was an impressive volcano and I hoped the
weather would cooperate for a summit attempt.
Driving in we were rewarded with some lush forests and beautiful
waterfalls.
Upon arrival on Tuesday we talked with the rangers and got current weather and mountain info (including a body recovery operation of two
climbers that died just before we arrived).
Wednesday morning we caught the breakfast buffet at The Paradise Inn, where we gorged on bacon, and then hit the boot-packed snow trail by 9:00 a.m. It was a warm 50 degrees and we headed toward base camp with our 65 lb packs.
Camp Muir (10,080’) It was 5 miles and 4800 vertical feet up to Camp Muir. We moved at a leisurely pace
taking in all the scenery along the way.
Nisqually Glacier
Mt. Adams
There were great views of Mt. Adams, Mt. St. Helens, Mt. Hood, and even Mt. Jefferson (over 100 miles south). We even saw Mt. St. Helens erupt on the way.
Camp Muir consists of a stone sleeping structure, a ranger hut, and some storage buildings. We
shared the shelter with 6 other climbers who had been up on the
mountain for 5 days waiting for good weather and establishing a
route up part of the Ingraham Glacier.
We hung around at camp where we met Bart, a WY ski instructor
who was looking for a summit team. Brian and I happily agreed
since a rope team of 3 is preferred over 2 for rescue
purposes.
We laid down to get some rest at about 7:30 and were up at 11
p.m. to gear up. After some hot tea we were roped and heading
up by 12:15 a.m. with a nearly full moon helping us find the way. Temps were really warm – 25
degrees – and no wind.
After 4 hours of darkness an amazing sunrise greeted us.
We continued up the Ingraham Glacier and navigated a
crevasse field with the benefit of daylight. It was steep going
but we all felt good.
Looking back toward Little Tahoma Peak
We hit the summit crater of the volcano at 7:00 a.m. A
third of the rim was steaming and belching sulfur-rich gas. From here it was a short hike
to the actual summit.
Victory is ours!!
However, last May Brian and I were on a 20,000’ summit in the Andes…We must be getting old.
It’s all downhill from here. But the warm temps meant lots of
avalanches and rock fall around us.
Celebration time!!
After our parking lot beers, Brian and I headed for the nearest hot
tub – about 30 miles.
The end