MILAN FACTORY VISIT REPORT
11TH TO 15TH SEPTEMBER 2017
DAY 1 AGENDA | 01
11TH SEP
MONDAY
10.30 AM - 11 AM
Introduction about Moellhausen S.P.A and Compa-ny Video by Andrea Ghezzi Perego and Stephanie Moellhausen
11 AM - 12 PM
Visit to Factory Facilities with Luigi Ducci
12 PM - 1 PM
Quality Assurance with Claudia d’Angelo
1 PM - 2.30 PM
Lunch Break
2.30 PM - 4 PM
Regulatory affairs with Francesca Perego
DAY 1 | 02
1.1INTRODUCTION TO MOELLHAUSEN
Founded in 1967 by Eithel Moellhaussen, Moellhausen is one of the world’s leading family run companies in the in-dustry of flavours, fragrances and raw materials. The key departments in the company include:
I. REGULATORY AFFAIRS:
• Compliance with Industry Regulations• Compliance with Health and Safety Regulations• Customer Support catering to requests with high level
of autonomy
II. PROCUREMENT OF RAW MATERIALS:
• Monitoring the financial market and exchange rates• Analyzing macro-economic and political situations• Understanding seasonality and abundance of crops
worldwide• Developing algorithms for the dynamic definition of
minimum stock on an analytical basis• Provide the most stable and competitive price in the
market
III. PRODUCTION, LOGISTICS AND QUALITY:
• The manufacturing plant in Cambiago is the heart of the production system
• Stock of over 1600 raw materials• Over 14,000 samples of coded references are available• Quick and Precise automatic compounders to prepare
complex specialities
IV. SALES AND MARKETING
• Market Intelligence provided to customers through in-depth market surveys
• Trend forecast reports sent proactively to customers• Access to detailed Mintel GNPD and market trend re-
ports.
V. FINANCE ADMINISTRATION AND CONTROL
• Strategy Planning and creation of business plans• Cash management with predictive capabilities• Risk management with legal and tax compliance
1.1INTRODUCTION TO MOELLHAUSEN
VI. RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT:
• Use of latest analytical instruments for chemico-phys-ical characterization and application testing of new fragrances
• Access to advanced research technologies through agreements with select institutes
• Organoleptic tests with team of experts
DAY 1 | 03
1.2FACTORY FACILITIES TOUR
DAY 1 | 04
CUSTOM DESIGNED SOFTWAREINTEGRATED WITH GENERAL ERP
Supervises all mixing and packing opera-tions. Any error in mixing is immediately displayed on the screen and halts further operations until rectified.
COMPOUNDING SYSTEM
Lines have different dosing intervals, be-ing fed a total of about 30 powders and 700 liquids which are kept under nitrogen blanketing.
INGREDIENTS
>1,600 in permanent stock Automated Shelf-Life Alerts
INSTALLED QC/QA EQUIPMENTS
GC/FID GC/MISHPLC/UV-DADFlash GCRefractometer
GC-MS/MSLC-MS/MS
AUTOMATED WAREHOUSE FOR SAMPLE STORAGE
Can store upto 100,000 representative samples of 30 ml each.
MATERIALS
Aroma ChemicalsComplementary FFMEssential Oils and Plant ExtractsInnovative FFM
1.2FACTORY FACILITIES TOUR
DAY 1 | 05
DAY 1 | 06
1.3QUALITY ASSURANCE/QUALITY CONTROL
VENDOR
MSDS/TDS
RECEIVING/SHIPPING
QC CHECKPOINTS
PRODUCTION
MONTHLY INTERNAL AUDITS
VENDOR AUDITS
4 CALIBRATION TESTS PER YEAR
PEST CONTROL SYSTEMS(TOXIC/NON-TOXIC)
TRAINING PLAN
HYGIENE
PRODUCT DEFENSE
ANNUAL TRACEABILITY AND RECALL TESTS
CUSTOMER
BATCHWISEQC CHECKPOINTS
CERTIFICATE OF ANALYSIS
CUSTOMER CLAIMS
DAY 1 | 07
1.4REGULATORY AFFAIRS
CHEMICALS + PRODUCTS
COSMOS
NATURAL COSMETICS
CITES
EXTINCT PLANTS
ECOLABEL
ORGANIC LABEL
SVHC
ENVIRONMENTALLY DANGEROUS GOODS
PIC
IMPORT CONTROL
REACH
EUROPE, TURKEY, CHINA, TAIWAN AND S.KOREA
GHS
DANGEROUS SUBSTANCES
NPS
POISONOUS SUBSTANCES
IFRA
CARCINOGENICSUBSTANCES
DAY 2 AGENDA | 08
12TH SEP
TUESDAY
MILAN TOUR // NICHE PERFUME SHOPS
DAY 3 AGENDA | 09
13TH SEP
WEDNESDAY
10.30 AM - 1 PM
Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen
1 PM - 2. 30 PM
Lunch
2.30 PM - 4 PM
Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen
DAY 3 | 10
3.1OLFACTIVE COURSE
HISTORY
EGYPTIANS
OILS/OINTMENTS/INCENSE FOR RELI-GIOUS AND MEDICAL PURPOSES
JEWS
PERFUMES IN TEM-PLES FOR SPIRITUAL PURPOSES
ROMANS
SCENTED DOVES TO PERFUME AIR / SCENTED WALLS FOR AESTHETIC PURPOSES
EUROPEANS
PERFUMERY COMES TO EUROPE IN THE MIDDLE AGES BE-CAUSE OF CRUSADERS
EAST
ALCOHOL DISTILLA-TION IS FOUNDED
WEST
PERFUME IS BANNED BY THE CHURCH AS IT IS A SIGN OF SENSU-ALITY
DAY 3 | 11
3.1OLFACTIVE COURSE
HISTORY
ITALY
HOME OF FRA-GRANCES
FRANCE
PERFUMERY BROUGHT TO FRANCE BY QUEEN CATHERINA DE MEDICI USES SCENTED LEATH-ER GLOVES .
GRASSE
STARTED CULTIVATING FLOWERS TO MAKE SCENTS TO DEODOR-ISE LEATHER
FRENCH REVOLUTION
DISCOVERY OF COU-MARIN THE FIRST AROMA CHEMICAL, RISE OF MODERN PER-FUMERY
PAUL POIRET
FIRST TO DEVELOP A BRANDED FRA-GRANCE AND GAVE IT AS A RETURN GIFT AT A PARTY.
COCO CHANEL(1921)
DEVELOPS THE FIRST ALDEHYDIC PERFUME INSPIRED BY POIRET CALLED CHANEL NO. 5
DAY 3 | 12
3.2OLFACTIVE COURSE
OLFACTION
• We smell with our brain.
• Smell and Taste are highly connected.
• Humidity is required to properly smell fragarances (Luca Tu-
rin’s theory).
• Best to smell fragrances with one nostril at a time.
• Avoid saturation of fragrances by smelling coffee beans or a
familiar smell to you such as your outfit.
• All our senses receive signals from the outside world and
keeps you alert.
• The sense of smell is connected to the limbic system which
processes memories and emotions.
• There are no copyrights on fragrances.
DAY 3 | 13
3.2OLFACTIVE COURSE
OLFACTION
NORMAL PERCEPTION OLFACTORY PERCEPTION
NAME
CATEGORY
ASSOCIATIVE MEMORY
FAMILIARITY
EMOTIONS
EMOTIONS
FAMILIARITY
ASSOCIATIVE MEMORY
CATEGORY
NAME
“CHILDHOOD MEMORIES FROM THE AGES OF
1-4 YEARS GENERATE
THESTRONGEST
ASSOCIA-TIONS.
DAY 3 | 14
3.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PRODUCTION PROCESS
NATURAL ESSENTIALS
FLOWER, LEAF, STEM, BARK, WOOD, ROOT, BUD, FRUIT, GUMS, RESINS
HYDRADISTILLATION
VOLATILE SOLVENT EXTRACTION
EXPRESSION(CITRUS)
MOST USED PROCESSES
CO2 EXTRACTION EXPENSIVE(PINK PEPPER)
MOLECULAR DISTILLATION COLOURLESS PRODUCTS
ESSENTIAL OILS
FATTY SATURATED CONCRETE
THICK LIQUID ABSOLUTE
RESINOID
EXTRACTED OIL
DAY 3 | 15
3.4OLFACTIVE COURSE
FRAGRANCE INGREDIENTS
NATURALS AROMA CHEMICALS
ABSOLUTE
BALSAM
CONCRETE
OLEORESIN
ESSENTIAL OILS
RESINS
RESINOIDS
NATURE LIKE IDENTICALS
SYNTHETIC
ODOUR CLASSIFICATION
FAMILY ADJECTIVES
ADJECTIVES
DAY 3 | 16
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
ALDEHYDIC
FOUND IN NATURE
METALLIC
WAXY
PUNGENT
REMINDS OF IRONBOX SMELL
CLEAN
SOAPY
ANIMALIC
CASTORUM
CIVETTE(UNPLEASANT CAT LIKE SMELL)
COSTUS
INDOLE(NAPTHALENE)
PHENYL ACETIC ACID
OUD
ANISIC
KITCHEN SPICES
ANGELICA ROOTS
ANISEED, BASIL, CORIANDER, CELERY, CUMIN, FENNEL MAR-
JORAM OIL
ANETHOL
1. 2. 3.
BASE NOTES TOP NOTES
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
DAY 3 | 17
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
AROMATIC
MOSTLY MEDITTERANEAN
AROMOISE OIL
EUCALYPTUS(VICKS)
LAUREL LEAF
LAVANDIN OIL(LAVENDER + EUCALYPTUS)
LAVENDER(FLORAL, DIRTY SOIL)
MYRTLE
ROSEMARY OIL
BALSAMIC/AMBERY
RESINS AND GUMS
SWEET AND FRESH
PERU BALSAM (VANILLA BUD LIKE)
CISTUS(CHYAVANPRASH)
ELEMI(PEPPERY)
FRANKINCENSE
LABDANUM(LEATHERY)
MYRHH(BURNT TYRES, PLAS-TIC GLOVES)
OPONAX (PINE NUTS SWEET)
TONKA BEAN
COUMARIN
CITRUS
BERGAMOT OIL
CITRONELLA OIL
GRAPEFRUIT PINK(BITTER/SULFURIC/SOUR)
LEMON OIL
LIME OIL(COCA COLA)
MANDARIN OIL
ORANGE OIL(SWEETER THAN GRAPEFRUIT)
PETIT GRAIN
4.
5.
6.
TOP NOTES
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
BASE NOTES TOP NOTES
DAY 3 | 18
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
EDIBLE (FOOD GRADE)
VANILLIN
VANILLA
MALTOL (COTTON CANDY)
CACAO
TAKAM BEANS (DAIRY MILK)
FLORAL: NATURAL + AROMA CHEMICAL (BIGGEST FAMILY)
ROSE ESSENTIAL OIL(GREEN, NATURAL, ARTI-
CHOKE LIKE, VERY DIFFERENT FROM FLOWER)
ROSE ABSOLUTE(SMELLS MORE LIKE FLOWER)
GERANIUM(CITRONELLA, MASCULINE)
YLANG(BANANA, TIGER BALM,
VINTAGE PERFUMES, SPICY CLOVE)
ORANGE BLOSSOM(NEROLI, FRESH, FRUITY)
7.
8.
TOP NOTESBASE NOTES
TUBEROSE ABSOLUTE(LACTOSE, SPICY, GREEN,
COCONUT)
MIMOSA(SWEET, GREEN, CHERRY LIKE,COUMARIN, FRESH, POWDERY)
CARNATIONS(ROSE+CLOVE, USED IN KENZ0)
ROMAN CHAMOMILE(FRUITY, HAYLIKE, LEATHERY)
DAVANA ESSENTIAL OIL(MARIGOLD, SANGRIA, FRUITY,
WOODY, RED FRUITS)
OSMANTHUS (APRICOTS)
DAY 3 | 19
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
FRUITY (ALMOST NO ESSENTIAL OIL, ONLY JUICE)
GAMMA NONALATTONE(COCONUT, CREAMY, WHITE
TUBEROSE)
GAMMA DECALATTONE(PEACH + APRICOT)
ALDEHYDE C16(STRAWBERRY)
ETHYL BUTYRRATE(BUBBLEGUM + SUGAR)
RASPBERRY KETONE
MELANOX
ACETATE ISOAMYL
GREEN
BLACK CURRANT
GALBANUM (PUNGENT, GREEN, MASCULINE)
MATE(TEA, COUMARIN, WOODY,
GRASSY)
TAGETE ABSOLUTE
VIOLET LEAVES(FOREST, SOIL, MUSHROOMS)
CIS 3 ESENOLO(FRESH CUT GRASS)
9. 10.
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
TOP NOTES
ALLYL CAPORATE(PINEAPPLE)
CASSIS(PASSION FRUIT, MANGO, GUA-
VA, PAPAYA)
WATERY (WATERMELON + MELON)
GREEN(APPLE + PEAR)
YELLOW(PINEAPPLE + BANANA)
RED FRUITS
DAY 3 | 20
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
LEATHER
SYNTHETIC EXCEPT BIRCH
CASTOREUM
ISO BUTYL QUINOLENE
BIRCH(SMOKY, BARBEQUE LIKE, CHARCOAL, FIREPLACE)
SUDERAL(LEATHER BAG, WARM)
LEATHER BOLD BASE
MINT
MENTHA ARVENSIS OIL(COLD)
MENTHA PULEGIUM
PEPPERMINT(SWEETER COLD MINT)
L MENTHOL
PENYREOL MINT(BURNT PLAS-TIC + MINT)
MUSK
WOMEN FIND IT DIFFICULT TO SMELL
LONG LASTING
MUSK KETONE(SOAPY, GEN-TLE, CLEAN)
KOVANOL
CIVETTON
MUSK C
11. 12. 13.
TOP NOTESBASE NOTES BASE NOTES
DAY 3 | 21
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
OZONIC
CALONE(SEA BREEZE)
HELIONAL(LIKE THE WHITE OART OF A WATERMELON)
AMBER GREY
OZONIL(FRESH AIR, DUSTY, AIRCRAFT SMELL)
FLORALXON(WATERY, FLORAL, LILY OF
THE VALLEY, HYACINTH)
EVERNILOX
POWDERY
COSMETIC
CARROT SEED OIL
IRIS ABSOLUTE (SMELLS LIKE BLUSH, JOHNSONS BABY
POWDER)
ORRIS OIL
AMBRETTOLIDE
ALPHA IONONE
GAMMA METHYL IONONE(FLORAL POWDERY)
SPICY
BAY LEAVES
NUTMEG(SWEET)
PINK PEPPER
GINGER
CARDAMOM
CINNAMIC ALDEHYDE
EUGENELO
SAFFRON
14. 15. 16.
TOP NOTES HEART NOTES
DAY 3 | 22
3.5OLFACTIVE COURSE
FAMILIES
FRAGRANCES THAT I LIKED
WOODY
CEDAR(CLEAN, DRY, PENCIL LIKE)
CHINESE CEDAR(POWDERY, SMOKY)
GUAIACAWOOD(PARAGUAY, SWEET, SMOKY, HONEY, ROSE,
BIRCH)
SANDALWOOD
ROOTY
PATCHOULI
VETIVER(KHUS)
17. 18.
HEART / BASENOTES
DAY 4 AGENDA | 23
14TH SEP
THURSDAY
10.30 AM - 1 PM
Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen
1 PM - 2. 30 PM
Lunch
2.30 PM - 4 PM
Olfactive Course with Dominique Moellhausen
4.1OLFACTIVE COURSE
FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE
DAY 4 | 24
DIFFERENT MOLECULES HAVE DIFFERENT VAPOUR PRESSURE
(HIGHER FRAGRANCE CONCENTRATION IS NEEDED FOR HOTTER COUNTRIES BECAUSE WHEN TEMPERATURE INCREASES EVAPORATION RATE INCREASES)
TOP
HEART
BASE
GREEN, CITRUS, MINT, AROMATIC, ANISIC
FLORAL, SPICY, FRUITY, WOODY
CUMIN
WOODY, MUSKY, POWDERY, BASLAMIC, ANIMALIC, EDIBLE, LEATHERY
UPTO 2 HOURS
2 - 4 HOURS
6 - 4 HOURS
4.1OLFACTIVE COURSE
FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE
DAY 4 | 25
NOTE A SINGLE DISTINCTIVE ODOUR IMPRESSION
ACCORD MULTIPLE NOTES THAT CREATE A PLEASANT ODOUR
DISCORD MULTIPLE NOTES THAT CREATE AN UNPLEASANT ODOUR
4.1OLFACTIVE COURSE
FRAGRANCE STRUCTURE
DAY 4 | 26
DON’T NEED TOO MANY BASE NOTES LIKE MUSK
SOLVENTS: DOWANOL + ALCOHOL DIFFUSES VERY WELL AT THE CORRECT PACE. (30% MINIMUM)
REED DIFFUSERS
VERTICAL SINGULAR NOTES
SOLVENTS: DEP BURNS VERY WELL.
CANDLES
NEED MANY BASE NOTES
SOLVENTS: EPM AND DPG
DETERGENTS
1. Candle sweating is caused because of excess natural essential oils2. Alcohol solvents can ruin plastic bags 3. Sunlight and heat are very bad for fragrances. Products need to be protected in Aluminium if conditions are such.
4.2OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME EVALUATION
DAY 4 | 27
PERFUME EVALUATOR //ORCHESTRA
LEADER
MARKETING TEAM
SALES TEAM
PERFUMERSQUALITY
TEAM
CREATIONMATCHINGSELECTIONREWORKREINFORCEMENT
REGULATORY PROBEMSMARKET KNOWLEDGECOMPETITOR ANALYSISCONSUMER SNIFF TEST ANALYSIS
NEW PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
WWW.FRAGRANTICA.COMHAS THE FRAGRANCE COMPOSITIONS FOR LEADING PERFUMES
WWW.FRAGRANTICA.COM
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 28
CITRUS
CITRUS
SPICY
AROMATIC
GREEN
WOODY
AQUATIC
FLORAL
DIOR HOMME SPORT
FAN DI FENDI POUR HOMME 2012 (WARM)
EMERIGILDO ZEGNA 2012(LAVENDER + ROSEMARY)
THIERRY MUGLER COLOGNE 2001 UNISEX (CUT GRASS)
STARWALKER MONT BLANC(MASCULINE)
L’EAU PAR KENZO POUR HOMME (YOUNG, ZESTY,
AQUATIC)
JOUR DE HERMES ABSOLUTE
GOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / FATHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 29
FLORAL
CITRUS
SOLIFLORE
WOODY
MUSKY
CHYPRE
SPICY
ALDEHYDIC
D&G LIGHT BLUE
J’ADORE DIOR(JASMINE+FRUITY)
TRESOR LANCOME(WOODY + FLORAL)
ESSENCE NARCISO RODRIGUEZ
STARWALKER MONT BLANC(MASCULINE)
FLOWER BY KENZO(CARNATIONS + CINNAMON)
CHANEL NO. 5
GREEN
MARINE
FRUITY
ELLIE SAAB LE PARFUM
ACQUA DI GIOIA ARMANI(WATERY + FLOWERY)
UNTITLED BYMARTIN MARGELA
GOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / MOTHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 30
ORIENTAL
AROMATIC
WOODY
GREEN
SPICY
EDIBLE
FLORAL
FRUITY
A MEN THIERRY MUGLER
FLOWER BOMB GIVENCHY(VETIVER, AMBER)
ANGEL BY THEIRRY MUGLER(BURNT SUGAR, RED FRUITS)
CAROLINA HERRERA(WHITE FLOWERS, FRUITY)
AMIR OUD: PRX016080 (ROSE, SAF-FRON, AMBER, WOODY)
SHERIDIEN EDT: PRX012891 (MASA-
LA CHAI, CARDAMOM, CLOVE)
VICTORIA EDT:ENDING IN 54 (WHITE
FLOWERS)
GOOD FOR DIWALI COLLECTIONS AS IT HAS TYPICAL INDIAN FRAGRANCE MIXES + STRONGGOOD FOR VALENTINES DAY / MOTHERS DAY / WEDDING COLLECTIONS
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 31
FLORIENTAL
FRUITY
WOODY
SPICY
BOUQUET
POISON
ARMANI CODE
LOLA BY MARC JACOBS
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 32
FRUITY
FLORAL
PARADISO(WATERMELON)
CHERRY ESCADA(RASPBERRY+SWEET AL-MOND + SANDALWOOD)
NINA L’EAU
WOODY
CITRUS
USED PRIMARILY FOR TOILETRIES AND DETERGENTS
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 33
CHYPRE
FRUITY
COCO MADEMOISELLE
NARCISO RODRIGUEZ FOR HER
FLORAL
GOOD FOR MOTHER’S DAY COLLECTIONS AS IT REMINDS YOU OF RESPECTABLE WOMEN.
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 34
FOUGERE
AROMATIC
DRAKKA NOIR
DAVIDOFF COOLWATER
AQUATIC
GOOD FOR MASCULINE FATHERS DAY FRAGRANCES / WEDDING / VALENTINES DAY
1 MILLION PACO ROBANNE
WOODY
4.3OLFACTIVE COURSE
PERFUME GENEOLOGY
DAY 4 | 35
WOODY
SPICY
TERRE D’HERMES(CEDARWOOD, PEPPER,
CINNAMON)
EAU DE MERVIER
FLORAL
END OF PART I
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