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28Knit Top
Foundationschapter
632
TYPES OF KNIT FOUNDATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .633
DARTLESS STRETCHY KNITDRAFT 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . .633
DARTLESS FIRM KNITDRAFT 2 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .635
OVERSIZED KNIT TOPDRAFT 3 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 636
Cotton Knit Top Draft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636
Ribbing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .637
CROP TOP WITH A MUSCLE SLEEVE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .638
KNIT TOP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .639
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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 633
1/2 "
1 "
X
Starting point
Figure 1
Knit tops are based on the seamless torso foun-dation. Refer to page 385 for the draft. The basic knitfoundations are seamless.Add 3/8-inch seams whenstitching on the overlock/serge machines and 1/2-inchseams for single-stitch machines. Refer to Chapter 27for information about knits. The patterns are drafted
together and separated at the completion of thedraft.
TYPES OF KNITFOUNDATIONS
Draft 1for two-way stretch and tubular knit
Draft 2for firm knits (double knit)
Draft 3for cotton knit oversized T-shirt
Ribbing: refer to page 637There are a number of books that will help withsewing instructions on knits.
DARTLESS STRETCHYKNITDRAFT 1
Pattern Development
Figure 1 Back
Trace the back pattern, starting at shoulder tipand ending at the armhole. Label X at neck.
Shift the pattern upward 1/2 inch and trace 4to 5 inches of the armhole.
Draw the side seam indenting 1" as shown.
Figure 2
XY Front shoulder measurement. (Follow the angleof the shoulderline and mark.)
Draw the adjusted armhole using a French curvefrom Y, blending with the original armhole. Thedart is eliminated.
X
Equals front
shoulder length
Y
Figure 2
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634 Chapter 28
Figures 3a,b Front Neck
Place front pattern on top of the back copy,aligning hip and center lines.
Draw the front neckline only. Label Z (Figure 3a).
If X and Z do not align, draw a line through X
and Z. Mark the center and blend with the backneck and front neck. Draw line from the mark tothe shoulder tip (broken lines original pattern)(Figure 3b).
Separating the Front and Back Patterns
Figure 4
Place paper under the draft; secure and cut theback pattern. LabelKnit back.
Measure the armhole and record.
Figure 5 Trim front neck from original pattern. Label
Knit front.
Trim 1/8 inch from curve of the armhole andblend.
Using one-fourth of the waist and hip measure-ments, draw a reference side seam. Use the linefor fitted garments cut in Lycra-blended fabrics.
Note: When using rib knit, draw straight side seams of front andback patterns to avoid runs in the knit.
Figure 6 Knit Sleeve
Fold paper. Place the basic sleeve front on thepaper with center grain on foldline and trace.
Mark biceps and elbow. Remove. Label the grain-line AB. (Broken line indicates original sleeve.)
Measure in 1/2 inch on biceps line. Mark. Squareup 1/2 inch from mark and label C. Square a newbiceps line from the fold to point C.
Blend a new armhole curve to the sleeve cap.
Square a line from B equal to one-half of the wrist
(plus 1/4 inch) measurement, label D. Draw a slightly inward curved line from D to C.
Z
X
Figure 3a
Z
X Find centerand blend
Figure 3b
Mea
s
ur
e
Centerb
ack
Centerfront
KNIT BACK KNIT FRONT
Trim1/8 "
Line for fitted garment Line for fitted garment
DiscardFigure 4
1/2 "
C
A
1/2 "
D
Grainline
Paper
B
Figure 6
Figure 5
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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 635
Figures 7, 8 Sleeve Adjustment
Sleeve cap should measure 1/4 inch more thanarmhole (1/2 inch total). Measure the sleeve capand compare with armhole measurement.
If cap measurement is less than the armhole, ex-tend biceps and blend with cap. Figure 7.
If cap measurement is more than needed, measurein from the biceps and blend the new cap. Figure 8.
Draw a line to the elbow or wrist level.
Mark the center cap notch.
Figure 9
Cut the sleeve from paper. Unfold.
Complete the sleeve. LabelKnit sleeve. The sleeveis shaped equally on both sides.
Add seams to all patterns (1/2 inch, or 3/8 inch
for overlock stitch). Notch at center cap.
DARTLESS FIRMKNITDRAFT 2
Figures 1, 2 Trace torso foundation pattern, transferring
shoulder and side dart to the armhole. The arm-holes have been enlarged. The front is greaterthan the back. Measure to find the difference.
Record.Example: The front armhole is 3/4 inch greater.
Add 1/4 inch to the back shoulder.
Subtract 1/4 inch from the front shoulder.
Add 1/2 inch to the back side seam and subtract1/2 inch from the front seam. Draw lines towaist, as illustrated.
Sleeve
The sleeve cap of the basic sleeve should measure
1/2 inchmore thanfront and backarmholes. If itdoesnot, follow the instruction given in Figures 7 and 8.
Measur
e
Measur
e
Blend BlendElbow Elbow
Add
Biceps Biceps
Reduce
Figure 7KNIT SLEEVE
Figure 9
FRONTBACK
1/4 "
1/4 "
1/2 " 1/2 "
Firm knit foundation Firm knit foundation
Trim
Figure 1
Figure 8
Figure 2
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636 Chapter 28
OVERSIZED KNITTOPDRAFT 3
The front and back knit patterns are drafted togetherand separated when the draft has been completed.
Create design variations from this foundation.
Cotton Knit Top DraftThe cotton knit top is based on the stretchy dartlessknit top. If not available, see pages 633 to 635.
Figure 1
Square a line on paper.
Place the front dartless pattern on the square.
Trace the neckline and end at mid-shoulder.
Shift the pattern 1" (more or less)
Trace the remaining pattern and remove.
Draw a line from the shoulder tip to neck.
Lower armhole 1 1/2", or as preferred.
Draw the armhole using the Vary curve.
Measure the armhole. Record in the space pro-vided in the right column.
Place the back dartless pattern on the square andtrace the back neckline for the back knit pattern.
Sleeve Draft
Measurements Needed
Sleeve length _____________.
Half of armhole measurement _____________.
Around hand measurement plus 1" ____________.
Figure 2AB draw a line in middle of the paper equal to
the knit sleeve length, less 1". Square outfrom A and B.
AC 3". Square out from C.
AD one-half of AB. Square out from D. Fold onthe AB line.
AE armhole measurement. Draw the line from A
touching on the biceps line. Label E. Divideinto fourths and follow the illustration.
BF one-half of around hand measurement.
Draw a line from F ending 1/2 inch infrom E. Draw a curved line from E, blend-ing to elbow.
Complete the pattern, cut, and stitch tothe knit top. The sleeve can be modifiedfor other designs.
A
C3/16 "
1/8 "
E
DElbow
BF
Sleevefor knit
foundation
Entrymeasurement
Paper
Figure 2
1-1/2 "
Fo
ld
Extend topreferredlength
Shift Front
Back
Measure
1 "Figure 1
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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 637
Completing the Patterns
Figure 3
Place paper underneath the pattern and trace theback copy.
Trim the back neck from the front pattern.
RibbingRibbing is a perfect cover for the raw edges of stretchfabrics (neckline, cuffs, and banding at hemlines).Ribbings can be purchased to the length and widthor made from the self-fabric of the knit. Overlock/serge the seams when sewing knits.
Self-Made Ribbing
The width of the knit determines the amount to becut from around the neckline:
Widthdouble the measurement, plus 3/4 inch for3/8-inch seam.
Lengthequals the adjusted neckline. Fold ribbing
length in half and mark.
Joining the Ribbing Seams
Figures 1a,b,cThe joining seam of the ribbing can be at the shoul-der line (Figure 1a) or center back (Figure 1c). Pinribbing to the fabric lying flat (Figure 1a) or to thegarment on the form (Figures 1b and 1c).
Test FitProblems and Solutions
Figures 2a,bDo not trim the ribbing excess until the perfect fit isdetermined. The garment must be able to slide overthe head easily. If too loose, the ribbing will nothug the neck (Figure 2a). Release and stretch more.If too tight, puckers will appear on the garment(Figure 2b). Release and relax the stretch.
BACKknit
(oversize)
FRONTknit
(oversize)
Figure 3
Shoulderstarting point
Center front
Center back
Excess after stretching
Figure 1a
Trim excess at C.B.
Starting point
Figure 1b
Fit problems
Insufficientstretching
Overly stretched
Figure 2a
Figure 1c
Figure 2b
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638 Chapter 28
CROP TOP WITHA MUSCLE SLEEVE
Design Analysis
The knit top fits close to the figure, indicating thata ribbed knit or Lycra should be the fabric of choice.The top fits under the bust and has a scooped neckline.The sleeve fits to the muscular arm, making this anideal garment for exercising. The top can be basedon the stretchy knit foundation.
Figure 1Trace the dartless foundation and draw the top frontand back neckline, as illustrated.
Fold
Fold
Figure 1
Figure 2 Sleeve
Trace the knit sleeve to bicep (broken lines) andremove.
Draw a parallel line 2 inches up from the biceps.
Place the sleeve on the traced copy and pivot3 inches down from cap to the new biceps line.Trace and indent 1/2 inch.
Repeat for the other side of the sleeve.
Blend the capline and curved hemline, followingthe illustration.
The cap should measure 1/2 inch greater than
the armhole. Add to or subtract from the underarmequally.
Pivot Pivot
2 "
Blend
1/2 " 1/2 "
Blend
New bicep
Figure 2
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KNIT TOP FOUNDATIONS 639
KNIT TOP
Design Analysis
A popular shirt design is based on the oversized cotton knit foun-dation. The top has a placket (see pages 370374 for a guide).
Figure 1
Trace the oversized dartless foundation on the fold.
Placket Inset
Draw a line 3/4" in from fold to the desired length of the placket.
Add a 1/4" seam allowance and cut out this section.
Draw the placket on fold 1 1/2" wide and equal to the length ofthe opening. Add 1/4" seams and notch 3/4" in from the fold toindicate where the collar starts. The placket is stitched from foldto notch and turned to the right side before stitching placket to
garment.
The collar can be cut from knit yardage. To complete a one-piece collar draft, see page 183 for a guide. Ribbed collars may beordered to the size needed from novelty sewing supplies or fromtrim resources.
Sleeve
Trace the sleeve and shorten to desired length and add 1 inch forhemline.
BACK
Fold
Fo
ld
A
B
6 "
FRONT
PLACKET
Cut two
Figure 1
SLEEVE
Gu
ide
line
Collar edge (fold line)
C.B.
Fold line of paper