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Transcript of Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance
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Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance, 5th edition
Text copyright © 2010 by Lennard Zinn
Illustrations copyright © 2010 by VeloPress
All rights reserved. Printed in the United States of America.
No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by
any means, electronic or photocopy or otherwise, without the prior written permission of the publisher
except in the case of brief quotations within critical articles and reviews.
1830 55th Street
Boulder, Colorado 80301-2700 USA
(303) 440-0601 · Fax (303) 444-6788 · E-mail [email protected]
Distributed in the United States and Canada by Ingram Publisher Services
A Cataloging-in-Publication record for this book is available from the Library of Congress.
ISBN: 978-1-934030-59-2
For information on purchasing VeloPress books, please call (800) 811-4210 ext. 2169
or visit www.velopress.com.
This book is printed on 100 percent recovered/recycled fiber, 30 percent postconsumer waste,
elemental chlorine free, using soy-based inks.
Cover and interior design by Erin Johnson
Composition by Erin Johnson and Jessica Xavier
Cover photo by Brad Kaminski; bike built by Lennard Zinn
Custom paint job on cover bike by Spectrum Powder Works, Colorado Springs, CO
Title font Sign Production JNL; body text Caecilia Roman
10 11 12 / 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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A Tip of the Helmet to . . . ix
Introduction xiii
Chapters
1 Tools 1
2 Basic Stuff: Preride inspection, wheel removal,and general cleaning 15
3 Emergency Repairs: How to get home whensomething big breaks or you get lost or hurt 33
4 Chains 51 5 Transmission: Front and rear derailleurs, cables,
and shifters 71
6 Wheels: Tires, rims and spokes, hubs, cassettes,and freewheels 111
7 Brakes: Cables, levers, and calipers 147
8 Cranksets 195
9 Pedals 225
10 Saddles and Seatposts 243
11 Handlebars, Stems, and Headsets 257
12 Wheelbuilding 291
13 Forks 311
14 Frames 347
Appendixes
A Troubleshooting Index 371
B Gear Development 377
C Mountain Bike Fitting 383
D Torque Table 393
Glossary 409
Bibliography 421
Index 423
Illustration Index 433
About the Author and Illustrator 437
C O N T E N T S
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I N T R O D U C T I O N
Peace of mind isn’t at all supercial, really. It’s the
whole thing. That which produces it is good mainte-
nance; that which disturbs it is poor maintenance.
What we call workability of the machine is just an
objectication of this peace of mind. The ultimate
test’s always your own serenity. If you don’t have this
when you start and maintain it while you’re working,
you’re likely to build your personal problems right into
the machine itself.
—Robert M. Pirsig,
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance
ABOUT THIS BOOK
This book is intended for people who have an
interest in maintaining their own mountain
bikes. I have written it for mountain bike owners
who do not think they’re capable of maintain-
ing their own bikes, as well as for those who do
and who want the how-to details at their finger-
tips. In Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance,
Robert Pirsig explores the dichotomy between
the purely classical and purely romantic views
of the world, a dichotomy that also applies to
mountain biking. Riding a mountain bike is
generally a romantic experience of emotion,
inspiration, and intuition, even when solving the
complex physics of how to negotiate a technical
section of trail without putting your foot down.
Mountain bike mechanics, however, is a purely
classical structure of underlying form dominated
by reason and physical laws. The two practices—
bike riding and bike maintenance—fit eloquently
together. Each is designed to function in a par-
ticular way, and to have one without the other
would be missing out on half the fun.
The romantic can appreciate how success at
bike mechanics requires that the procedures be
done with love, without which the care you imag-
ined putting into your mountain bike would be
lost. And even the pure romantic can follow the
simple step-by-step procedures and “exploded”
diagrams in this book (of which Fig. I.1 is an
extreme example and is the only one not intended
to be simple and clear!) and discover a passion for
spreading new grease on old parts.
Zinn & the Art of Mountain Bike Maintenance is
organized in such a way that you can pick main-
tenance tasks appropriate for you. The repairs in
these pages require no special skills to perform;
anyone can do them. It takes only a willingness
to learn.
Mountain bikes are admirably resilient mach-
ines. You can keep one running a long time just
by changing the tires and occasionally lubricating xiii
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
xiv
the chain. Chapter 2 is about the most minimal
maintenance your bike requires. Even if that is
the only part of this book you end up using, you’ll
have gotten your money’s worth by avoiding some
unpleasant experiences out on the trail.
This book was originally intended for homeenthusiasts, not shop mechanics. For that reason,
I have not included the long and precise lists of
parts specifications that a shop mechanic might
need. Nonetheless, when combined with a speci-
fication manual, this book can be a useful, easy-
to-follow reference for shop mechanics, too.
WHY DO IT YOURSELF?
There are a number of reasons why you would
want to maintain your own mountain bike.
Obviously, if done right, it is a lot cheaper to do
yourself than to pay someone else to do it. This is
certainly an important factor for those riders who
live to ride and have no visible means of support.
Self-maintenance is a necessity for that crew.
As your income goes up and the time available
to maintain your bike goes down, this becomes
less and less true. If you’re a well-paid profes-
sional with limited free time, it probably does
not make as much economic sense to maintain
your own bike. Yet you may find that you enjoy
working on your bike for reasons other than
just saving money. Unless you have a mechanic
whom you trust and to whom you take your bike
regularly, you are not likely to find anyone else
who cares as much about your bicycle’s smooth
operation and cleanliness as you do. You may also
need your bike fixed faster than a local shop can
do during its busy season. And you need to be
able to fix mechanical breakdowns that occur on
the trail.
It is a given: Breakdowns will happen, even
if you have the world’s best mechanic working
on your bike. For this reason, it takes away from
my enjoyment of a ride if I have something on
my bike that I do not understand well enough to
know whether it is likely to last the ride or how to
fix it if it does not.
There is an aspect of bicycle mechanics
that can be extremely enjoyable in and of itself,
almost independent of riding the bike. Bicyclesare the epitome of elegant simplicity. Bicycle
parts, particularly high-end components, are
meant to work well and last a long time. With the
proper attention, they can shine both in appear-
ance and in performance for years to come.
There is real satisfaction in dismantling a filthy
part that is not functioning well, cleaning it up,
lubricating it with fresh grease, and reassembling
it so that it works like new again. Knowing that
I made those parts work so smoothly—and that I
can do it again when they get dirty or worn—is
rewarding. I am eager to ride hard to see how
they hold up rather than being reluctant to ride
for fear of breaking something.
Also, if you share my stubborn unwillingness
to throw something out and buy a replacement
simply because it has quit working—be it a leaky
Waterpik; a torn tent; a duffle bag with a broken
zipper; or an old car, dishwasher, clock, or chain-
saw that is no longer running well—then this
book is for you. It is satisfying to keep an old piece
of equipment running long past its time, and it’s a
great learning experience!
There is also something very liberating about
going on a long ride and knowing that you can
fix just about anything that might go wrong with
your bike out on the trail. Armed with this knowl-
edge (which begins with learning to identify the
parts of a mountain bike, shown in Fig. I.2) and
the tools to put it into action, you will have more
confidence to explore new areas and to go farther
than you might have otherwise.
To illustrate, an experience from way back in
1995 comes to mind, when I took a day to ride
the entire 110-mile White Rim Trail loop in Utah’s
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xv
INTRODUCTION
Canyonlands National Park. It is as desolate as
you can imagine out there, and I was completely
alone with the sky, the sun, and the rocks for long
stretches. I had a good mileage base in my legs, so
I knew I was physically capable of doing the ride
during the limited daylight hours of late October.I had checked, replaced, or adjusted practically
every part of my bike in the days before the ride.
I had also tried out the bike on long rides close to
town. Finally, I added to my saddlebag tool kit a
few tools that I do not ordinarily carry.
I knew that there was very little chance of
anything going wrong with my bike, and with the
tools I had, I could fix almost anything short of a
broken frame on the trail. Armed with this knowl-
edge and experience, I really enjoyed the ride! I
stopped and gawked at almost every breathtak-
ing vista, vertical box canyon, colorful balanced
rock, or windblown arch. I took scenic detours.
I knew that I had a good cushion of safety, so I
could totally immerse myself in the pleasure of
the ride. I had no nagging fear of something going
wrong to dilute the experience.
Confidence in your mechanical ability allows
you to be more courageous about what you will try
on trails. And armed with this confidence you’ll
be more willing to share your love of the sport
with less experienced riders. Bringing new people
along on rides is a lot more fun if you know that
you can fix their bikes and they won’t be stranded
with an old junker that won’t roll.
HOW TO USE THIS BOOK
Skim through the entire book. Skip the detailed
steps, but look at the exploded diagrams and get
the general flavor of the book and what’s inside.
When it is time to perform a particular task,
you’ll know where to find it, and you’ll have a
basic idea of how to approach it.
Illustrator Todd Telander and I have done our
best to make these pages as understandable as
possible. Exploded diagrams are purposefully
used instead of photographs to show more clearly
how each part goes together. The first time you
go through a procedure, you may find it easier to
have a friend read the instructions out loud as you
perform the steps.Obviously, some maintenance tasks are more
complicated than others. I am convinced that
anyone with an opposable thumb can perform
virtually any repair on a bike. Still, it pays to spend
some time getting familiar with the really simple
tasks, such as fixing a flat, before throwing your-
self into complex jobs, such as building a wheel.
e L EVEL 1
ee L EVEL 2
eee L E V E L 3
Tasks and tools required are divided into
three levels indicating their complexity or your
proficiency. Level 1 tasks need level 1 tools and
require of you only an eagerness to learn. Level 2
and level 3 tasks also have corresponding tool sets
and are progressively more difficult. All repairs
mentioned in this book are classified as level 1
unless otherwise indicated. Tools are shown in
Chapter 1. The section at the end of Chapter 2,
“Performing Mechanical Work: A General Guide”
(§ii-17), is a must-read; it states general policies
and approaches that apply to all mechanical work.
Each chapter starts with a list of required tools
in the margin. If a section involves a higher level
of work, there will be an icon designating the level
and tools necessary to perform the tasks in that
section. Tasks and illustrations are numbered for
easy reference. Section references use the sym-
bol “§.” For instance, “§iii-6” means “see Section
iii-6 in Chapter 3.” Illustrations are referred to as
“Figures,” for instance, “Fig. 3.3.”
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
xx
and 650B (27.5-inch) tires and wheels are gaining
favor, particularly for tall riders. Smaller 24-inch
wheels and tires are found on small mountain bikes.
Tire widths and shapes vary and include everything
from studded snow tires to smooth street tires. This
book also covers “hybrid” bikes (Fig. I.5), which are across between road bikes and mountain bikes.
No matter how a mountain bike is configured,
even those who see themselves as having no
mechanical skills will be able to tackle problems
as they arise if they study the steps necessary
to properly maintain and repair their bike. With
a little bit of practice and a willingness to learn,
your bike will transform itself from a mysterious
contraption seemingly too complicated to tamper
with to a simple, very understandable machine
that can be a genuine delight to work on. Just
allow yourself the opportunity and the dignity to
follow along, rather than deciding in advance thatyou will never be able to do this. All you have to
do is follow the instructions and trust yourself.
So, set aside your self-image as someone who
is “not mechanically oriented” (and any other fac-
tors that may stand in the way of your making
your mountain bike ride like a dream), and let’s
start playing with your bike!
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1
1
expensive), and they ensure that your riding bud-
dies will show up not only to ask your sage advice,
but also to borrow your tools.
And if you really want to go all out and be set
up like a pro (and even have mechanics wanting
to borrow your tools), you can splurge on the set
shown in Figure 1.4. If you loan tools, you might
consider marking your collection to help recover
those items that might otherwise take a long
time finding their way back to your workshop.
It wouldn’t hurt writing down the details about
which tool you lent to whom and on what date.
You would be surprised how easy it is to forget
who has one of your seldom-used tools such as
snapring pliers or a metric tap.
i-1
LEVEL 1 TOOL KIT
e L EVEL 1Level 1 repairs are the simplest and do not
require a workshop, although it is nice to have a
good space to work. You will need the following
tools (Fig. 1.1A):
You can’t do much work on a bike without
tools. Still, it’s not always clear exactly which
tools to buy. This chapter clarifies the tools you
should consider owning on the basis of your level
of mechanical experience and interest.
As I mentioned in the Introduction, the main-
tenance and repair procedures in this book are
classified by their degree of difficulty. Nearly all the
repairs in this book are classified as level 1, unless
otherwise indicated. The tools for levels 1, 2, and 3
are pictured and described in the following pages.
Lists of the tools needed in each chapter are shown
in the margin at the beginning of each chapter.
For the uninitiated, there is no need to rush
out and buy a large number of bike-specific tools.
With only a few exceptions, the Level 1 Tool Kit
(Fig. 1.1A) consists of standard metric tools. This
kit is similar to the collection of tools I recom-
mend later in this chapter to carry with you on
rides, though in a more compact and lightweight
form (Figs. 1.5–6). The Level 2 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.2)
contains several bike-specific tools, allowing you
to do more complex work on the bike. The tools
in the Level 3 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.3) are extensive (and
Behold, we lay a tool here and on the morrow it is gone.
—The Book of Mormon
TOOLS
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
2
• Tire pump with a gauge and a valve head
to match your bike’s tubes (either Presta or
Schrader valves—see Fig. 1.1B; most good pumps
will fit both). A spare rubber valve-seal insert for
the head is a good idea; these wear out.
• Standard screwdrivers: small, medium, andlarge (one of each).
• Phillips-head screwdrivers: one small and one
medium.
• Set of three plastic tire levers (Figs. 6.5–6).
• At least two spare tubes of the same size and
valve type as those on your bike.
• Container of regular talcum powder. It works
well for coating tubes and the inner casings
of tires. Do not inhale this stuff; it’s bad for
the lungs.
• Patch kit. Choose one that comes with sand-
paper instead of a metal scratcher and patches
with soft orange rubber backing to the black
rubber (Fig. 6.11). At least every year and a half,
check that the glue has not dried up, regard-
less of whether the tube has been opened or
not. On rides, you might as well take a little
packet of glueless patches; they don’t work as
well as standard patches, but if the glue has
dried up, you’ll be glad you have them.
• One 6-inch adjustable wrench (aka “Crescent
wrench”).
• Pliers: regular and needle-nose.
• Set of metric hex keys (aka “Allen wrenches”
or “hex wrenches”) that includes 2.5mm, 3mm,
4mm, 5mm, 6mm, 8mm, and 10mm sizes.
Folding sets are available and work nicely to
keep your wrenches organized but are not
strong enough or long enough in the big sizes
(6mm and up); big bolts require more leverage.
I also recommend buying extras of the 4mm,
5mm, 6mm, and 8mm sizes.
• Set of metric open-end/box-end wrenches
that includes 7mm, 8mm, 9mm, 10mm, 13mm,
14mm, 15mm, and 17mm sizes.
• 15mm pedal wrench. This is thinner and lon-
ger than a standard 15mm wrench and thicker
than a cone wrench (Fig. 9.3). Your bike’s ped-
als may accept only a 6mm or 8mm hex key
(Fig. 9.4), so you may not need this tool.
• Chain tool for disconnecting and reconnecting
chain
chain lube
patch kit
spare tube
grease
plenty of rags
modern shock pump
1.1A Level 1 Tool Kit
tire levers
15mm pedal wrench
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CHAPTER 1
3
chains (Figs. 4.10–11). Older chain tools may
be too wide for the narrow chains on newer
bikes; read the Pro Tip in Chapter 4 before
buying one.
• Chain-elongation gauge to monitor the condi-
tion of the chain (Figs. 4.5–6).
poke wrench
talc
standard and Phillips-head screwdrivers
metric hexkeys
metric open-end/box-end wrenches
pliers
6" adjustable wrench
Schrader valve adapterfor old Marzocchi andRockShox forks
rubbing alcohol
tirepumpwithgauge
Schrader
Presta
rubbingalcohol
noggin
folding metrichex keys
needle-nosepliers
1.1B Valve types
chain-elongation gauge
talcumpowder
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
4
• Spoke wrench to match the size of nipples
used on your bike’s wheels.
• Tube or jar of grease. I recommend using
grease designed specifically for bicycles; how-
ever, standard automotive grease is okay,
except in suspension forks and twist shifters.• Drip bottle or can of chain lubricant (Fig. 4.1).
Please choose a nonaerosol; it is easier to
control, uses less packaging, and wastes less
in overspray.
• Rubbing alcohol for cleaning disc-brake pads,
rotors, shocks, and internal parts and for
removing and installing handlebar grips.
• A lot of rags!
Other useful items:
• If you have an air-sprung suspension fork or
rear shock, you need a shock pump. Get one
with a no-leak head if the front or rear shock
has standard Schrader valves (Fig. 13.10),
and get the adapter you need if your bike’s
fork requires either a ball needle or a spe-
cial adapter to insert down inside a sunken
Schrader valve.
i-2LEVEL 2 TOOL KIT
ee L EVEL 2Level 2 repairs are a bit more complex, and I
recommend that you create a well-organized
workspace with a shop bench. Keeping your work-
space organized is probably the best way to make
maintenance and repair easy and quick. You will
need the entire Level 1 Tool Kit (Fig. 1.1A) plus the
following tools (Fig. 1.2):
Portable bike stand. Be sure that the stand is
sturdy enough to remain stable when you’re
really cranking on the wrenches. If for some
reason you can’t clamp your bike’s seatpost,
you will need a bike stand that holds the bike
by the bottom bracket and the front or rear end
with one wheel out; see the one in Figure 1.4.
portable bikestand
ball-peen
splined pedal-spindle removaltool
Channel-lock pliers
1.2 Level 2 Tool Kit
sound system
duct tape
tire pressure
gauge
rubber gloves
snapringpliers
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51
TOOLS
chain lubricant
12-inch ruler
chain tool
lots of rags
rubber gloves
OPTIONAL
chain-elongatioindicator
master link plie
solvent (citrusbased)
self-contained ccleaner
old water bottle
caliper
pliers
solvent tank
Rohloff cog-weaindicator
4
fancy about it, you can assess the type of condi-
tions in which you ride and choose a lubricant
intended for those conditions. Some lubricants
are dry and pick up less dirt in dry conditions.
Some are sticky and therefore less likely to
wash off in wet conditions. Still others claim to
be “metal conditioners” that actually penetrate
and alter the surface of the metal. One of these,
ProGold’s ProLink, gives me longer chain life in all
riding conditions, with daily use, than anything
else I have tried, so that’s what I use. I’m not say-
ing that there aren’t other equally good products,
but by recommending one that I know is good,
I can cut down on the e-mails asking me what
chain lube I suggest.
Chain lubes generally come in spray cans and
in squeeze bottles. Sprays should be avoided for
regular maintenance chores because they tend
to spew too much oil over everything, includ-
ing in the air where you can inhale the lube. The
chain needs oil only between contacting parts.
On the outside, a thin film is sufficient to keep
corrosion at bay; more than that will only attract
dirt and gunk without improving the function of
the chain.
Abike chain is a simple series of links connected
by rivets. Rollers surround each rivet between
the link plates and engage the teeth of the cogs
and chainrings. It is an extremely efficient method
of transmitting mechanical energy from the ped-
als to the rear wheel. In terms of weight, cost, and
efficiency, the bicycle chain has no equal, and—
believe me—people have tried without success to
improve on it for years.
To keep your bike running smoothly, you have
to take care of the chain. It needs to be kept clean
and well lubricated in order to transmit your
energy efficiently and shift smoothly. Chains need
to be replaced frequently to prolong the working
life of other, more expensive, drivetrain compo-
nents because a chain gets longer as its internal
parts wear, thus contacting the gear teeth differ-
ently than intended.
CHAIN SERVICE AND ASSEMBLY
iv-1LUBRICATING THE CHAIN
When lubricating the chain, use a lubricant
intended for bicycle chains. If you want to get
A chain is only as strong as its weakest link.
—Anonymous
A sausage is only as good as its last link.
—Bluto
CHAINS
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
52
1. Drip a small amount of lubricant across each
roller (Fig. 4.1). Periodically move the chain so
that you can easily access the links you are
working on. To speed the process, turn the
crank slowly while dripping lubricant onto
the chain as it goes by. Yes, this method will
cause you to apply excess lubricant, which
will pick up more dirt. But overlubricating is
far preferable to not lubricating, and if you
wipe and lube the chain after each ride or
two, it won’t build up excessive grime.
2. Wipe the chain off lightly with a rag. In wet
conditions, expect to use more lubricant (after
every ride or even during a long, rainy ride).
iv-2CLEANING THE CHAIN BY FREQUENT
WIPING AND LUBRICATION
Cleaning the chain can be accomplished in
a number of ways. The simplest method to
maintain a chain is to wipe it down frequently,
lubricate it, and then wipe off the excess lube. If
you do this procedure before every ride, you will
never need to clean the chain with a solvent.
The lubricant softens the old sludge buildup,
which is driven out of the chain when you
ride. Of course, the lubricant also picks up new
dirt and grime, but if you wipe them off before
they’re driven deep into the chain and relubri-
cate the chain frequently, it will stay clean and
supple. Chain cleaning can be performed as fol-
lows with the bike standing on the ground or in
a bike stand:
4.1 Lubing the chain
4.2 Wiping the chain with a rag
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CHAPTER 4
53
1. Grab the chain with a rag. Grasp the lower
length of the chain (between the bottom of
the chainring and the rear-derailleur lower
jockey wheel).
2. Turn the crank backward a number of revo-
lutions. Pull the chain through the rag (Fig.
4.2). Periodically rotate the rag to present a
cleaner section of it to the chain.
3. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.
To encourage regular care, leave a pair of rub-
ber gloves, a rag, and some chain lube next to your
bike. Then, whenever you return from a ride, put on
the gloves, wipe and lube the chain, and put your
bike away. It takes maybe a minute, your hands
stay clean, and your bike is ready for the next ride.
If you can find time to take a shower after you ride,
you can find time for this. Wipe the chainrings,
cogs, front derailleur, and jockey wheels (Fig. 4.3)
while you’re at it, and the entire drivetrain will
always work ideally.
iv-3USING CHAIN-CLEANING UNITS
Several companies make chain-cleaning units
that scrub the chain with a solvent while it is
on the bike. These chain cleaners are generally
made of clear plastic and have two or three
rotating brushes that scrub the chain as it moves
through the solvent bath (Fig. 4.4). The units offer
the advantage of letting you clean the chain
without removing it from the bike. Regularly
removing the chain shortens any chain’s life;
moreover, with 9- or 10-speed chains unless you
use a master link, you may find that the chain
breaks under high load, thereby driving your foot,
and perhaps your entire body, into the ground.
Most chain-cleaning units come with a non-
toxic, citrus-based solvent. For your safety, and
other environmental reasons, I strongly recom-
mend that you purchase nontoxic citrus solvents
for the chain-cleaning unit, even if it already
comes with a petroleum-based solvent. If you
recycle used diesel fuel, then go ahead and use it.
In any case, wear gloves and glasses when using
any solvent.
Citrus chain solvents often contain some
lubricants, so they won’t dry the chain out. The
combination of lubricant and solvent is why diesel
fuel has had such a following as a chain cleaner.
A really strong solvent without lubricant (acetone,
for example) will displace the oil from inside the
rollers. The solvent will later evaporate, leaving a
4.3 Wiping the jockey wheels with a rag 4.4 Using a solvent-bath chain cleaner
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dry, squeaking chain that is hard to rehabilitate.
The same can happen with a citrus-based solvent
that does not include a lubricant if no lubricant is
separately applied, especially if the chain is not
allowed to dry long enough. The procedure for
using a chain-cleaning unit is straightforward: 1. Remove the top and pour in the solvent up
to the ll line.
2. Place the chain-cleaning unit up against the
bottom of the chain. Reinstall the top so that
the chain runs through it (Fig. 4.4).
3. Turn the bike’s crank backward. Run the
chain through the unit’s brushes until it is
clean.
4. Remove the unit from the chain.
5. Lubricate the chain as in §iv-1.
6. Let the solvent settle, decant the clear por-
tion, and discard the sludge.
iv-4REMOVING AND CLEANING THE CHAIN
e L EVEL 1You can also clean the chain by removing it from
the bicycle and cleaning it in a solvent. I do not
recommend this procedure unless the chain has
a master link, because repeatedly disassembling
the chain by pushing rivets in and out weakens it.
Mountain bike chains are prone to break-
age because of the conditions in which they are
used, but chain breakage is even more of an issue
because of the narrow width of 9- and 10-speed
chains. A chain that breaks during riding gener-
ally does so when you shift the front derailleur
while pedaling hard. This technique can pry a
link plate open so that the head of a rivet pops
out of the plate, tearing the chain apart. Chain
disassembly and reassembly expand the size of
the rivet hole where you put the chain together,
allowing the rivet to pop out more easily. Shimano
supplies special “subpins” for reassembly of its
chains that are meant to prevent this problem,
but the chain is still not as strong there as if you
had left the original pin in place.
A hand-opened master link can avoid the
problem of repeatedly opening and reassemblingthe chain. Master links are standard on SRAM,
Wippermann, Taya, and KMC chains. An after-
market master link, like Lickton’s SuperLink, can
also be installed into any chain so long as you
make sure that the master link is the right width.
If you do disassemble the chain (see §iv-7
or §iv-11 for instructions), you can clean it well,
even without a solvent tank. Just drop the chain
into an old jar or water bottle half filled with sol-
vent. Using an old water bottle or jar allows you
to clean the chain without touching or breathing
the solvent—something to be avoided even when
you are using citrus solvents.
The procedure for cleaning the chain without
using a chain-cleaning unit could not be simpler:
1. Remove the chain from the bike (§iv-7 or
§iv-11).
2. Drop it in a water bottle or jar.
3. Pour in enough solvent to cover the chain.
4. Shake the bottle vigorously. Keep it low to
the ground in case the top pops off or the jar
breaks.
5. Hang the chain to air-dry.
6. Reassemble it on the bike (see §iv-8 to
§iv-11).
7. Lubricate it as in §iv-1.
Whatever you do, don’t leave the chain to
soak for extended periods in citrus-based sol-
vents, because these are water based and will
cause the chain to oxidize (rust), making it move
with more friction and be more prone to break-
age. (Some people believe in having two chains
they rotate on and off the bike, leaving one soak-
ing in solvent while the other one is on the bike.
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CHAPTER 4
55
Although this would work with diesel fuel as the
solvent, it won’t work with water-based solvents.
In any case, you gain nothing by soaking the chain
for extended periods, so just don’t do it.)
After removing the chain, allow the solvent
in the bottle or jar to settle for a few days so thatyou can decant the clear stuff and use it again. I’ll
say this throughout the book: Use a citrus-based
solvent. It is not only safer for the environment;
it is also gentler on your skin and less harmful
to breathe. Wear rubber gloves when working
with any solvent, and use a respirator meant for
volatile organic compounds if you are not using
a citrus-based solvent. There is no sense in fixing
your bike to go faster if you end up becoming a
slow, sickly bike rider.
iv-5REPLACING THE CHAIN
e L EVEL 1As the rollers, pins, and plates wear out, the
chain lengthens. That, in turn, hastens the wear
and tear on other drivetrain parts. An elongated
chain concentrates the load on each individual
gear tooth, rather than distributing it over all of
the teeth that the chain is wrapped around, and
as a result the gear teeth become hook-shaped
and the tooth valleys become wider. If such wear
has already occurred, a new chain will not solve
the problem. A new chain will not mesh prop-
erly with deformed teeth, and it is likely to skip
whenever you pedal hard. So before all of that
extra wear and tear hits your pocketbook, get in
the habit of checking the chain on a regular basis
(§iv-6) and replacing it as needed.
How long it takes for the chain to wear out
will vary, depending on chain type, maintenance,
riding conditions, and strength and weight of the
rider. Figure on replacing the chain every 500 to
1,000 miles, especially for bikes ridden in dirty
conditions by a large rider. Lighter riders riding
mostly on paved roads can often extend replace-
ment time to more than 2,000 miles.
iv-6CHECKING FOR CHAIN ELONGATION
e L EVEL 1a. Chain-elongation gauges
The simplest accurate method for checking chain
elongation is to use a gauge. Make sure you check a
number of spots on the chain; you’ll find variation.
The Rohloff gauge (Fig. 4.5) is simple, quick,
and reliable. It’s a go/no-go gauge. Brace the hook
end against a chain roller, and if the opposing
curved tooth falls completely into the chain so
that the length of the tool’s body contacts it, the
chain is shot. If the chain is still in good shape, the
curved tooth will not go all of the way in. The tooth
marked “S” is for checking a chain running strictly
on steel rear cogs, and the tooth marked “A” is for
checking aluminum and titanium cogs, but I use
just the A side. I find that if the A edge comes down
to the chain and I replace it right then, I get almost
infinite life out of my chainrings and cogs, even
titanium ones. That’s worth it to me.
The ProGold chain gauge (Fig. 4.6) is also quick
and accurate. Brace the hooked end against a
chain roller, and let the long tooth drop into the
4.5 Checking chain wear with the Rohloff gauge.If the curved tooth with the S (steel cogs)falls completely into the chain, replace the
chain (A is for aluminum cogs).
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198
“Square taper,” “Octalink,” and “ISIS” are three
different bottom-bracket and crankarm interface
standards. Square-taper bottom-bracket spindles are
square on the end (Figs. 8.1, 8.18, 8.21–23) and t into
a square hole in the crankarm. The spindle ends are
tapered (at a 2-degree angle) to tighten into the crankas the arm is pushed into the spindle. ISIS (Fig. 8.19)
and Shimano Octalink (Fig. 8.20) are both oversized
hollow spindles (aka “pipe spindles”) with longitudinal
splines on the ends.
3. Unscrew the crank puller’s (Fig. 8.6) center
push bolt so that its tip is ush with the
face of the tool. Make sure the flat end of
the push bolt is the right size for the bottom
bracket; the push bolt end is much smaller
for a square-taper spindle than for an ISIS or
a Shimano Octalink splined spindle.
4. Thread the crank puller into the hole in the
crankarm. Be sure that you thread it in (by
hand) as far as it can go; otherwise, you will
not engage sufficient crank threads when you
tighten the push bolt, and you will damage
the threads. Future crank removal depends
on those threads being in good condition.
5. Tighten the push bolt clockwise (Fig. 8.6)
until the crankarm pulls off the spindle. Use
a socket wrench or the included handle.6. Unscrew the puller from the crankarm.
Installation
a. Integrated-spindle cranks with two pinch
bolts on the left arm
e L E V E L 11. Grease the spindle tip and the bore of each
bearing.
2. Push the spindle (which is attached to the
right crankarm) in through the bearings from
the drive side.
3. Slide the left arm onto the end of the spindle.
Check that the crank is at 180 degrees from
the right arm.
8.5 Removing and installing a Shimano 2007–2010 XTR FC-M970 crankset
left bearing cupspacer
spindle
washer adjusting nut
left crankarm
washer retainer
bolt
bolt
rightbearingcup
rightcrankarm TL-FC35
crankarmremovaltool
TL-FC17adjustingnut tool
spacer
spindle coverwith O-rings
(Attention: left-hand thread!)
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423
I N D E X
Adjustable cups, 207, 215, 216, 221,
40 9
Air compressors, 11, 122, 154
Air pressure, 318, 320, 326–327
Air-sleeves, servicing, 353, 354, 35 5
Alignment tool, 10
Antiseize compound, 28, 200
Antitwist tool, 9
Automatic transmission fluid (ATF),
336, 337
Axle-clamp tool, 10Axle nuts, 15, 20
Axles, 30, 212, 299, 409
checking, 19
cleaning, 130
removing, 129
replacing, 23 5
securing, 23– 24
through-, 20– 22 , 23, 12 8
Ball bearings, 142, 174, 203, 204,
207, 218, 231, 234, 358, 35 9,
360, 361, 409
angular-contact, 272 , 277, 278,279, 281
ceramic, 136, 217, 219
cleaning, 130–131, 133, 221, 237,
277, 280
loose, 278, 279
lubricating, 131, 132, 2 81, 286
orienting, 218–219, 278
overtightening, 272
press-in, 211, 279
replacing, 130, 131, 217–220, 277,
280, 282, 359–360
sealed, 416
standard, 280
steel, 136, 217
See also Cartridge bearings
Bar ends, 153, 154, 287, 409
installing, 95–96, 255, 257
position of, 390–391
replacing, 95–9 6, 257, 258
Barrel adjusters, 77, 78, 88, 89, 90,
92, 93 , 149, 151, 152, 153, 154,
166, 409
BBT-39 tool, 200, 212
Bearing cups, 207, 211, 212, 409
Bearing pullers, 211, 219–220
Bearing removers, 11
Belt drives, 64–66, 101
Bike dimensions, 385
Bike fitting, 383–391, 385–3 93
Bike stands, 4, 9
Blankets, 14, 48
Body measurements, 385–388Bosses, 176, 180, 181, 183, 186, 188,
191, 194, 30 9
brake, 148, 150, 345, 348, 410
cantilever, 148, 311, 312, 313, 348,
350, 351, 411
disc-brake, 312, 313, 35 0, 351
Bottom-bracket cups, 30, 83, 213,
217, 223, 3 50
Bottom-bracket shells, 11, 58, 66, 81,
83, 207, 208, 20 9, 210, 212, 213,
214, 215, 216, 220, 222, 22 3,
252, 35 2, 387, 410
cleaning, 211, 212full-carbon, 204
tapp ing, 35 0
unthreaded, 203
Bottom-bracket tools, 6
Bottom brackets, 65, 102, 108, 109,
110, 191, 195, 198, 2 03– 216, 231,
345, 388, 409
adjusting, 201, 222, 223
BB30: 220
BB86: 204, 205, 206
BB90: 204, 206
BB92: 204–206, 210–211, 220
BB95: 204–206, 210–211, 219
cartridge, 212–213, 216, 220–2 21,
223–225
cup-and-cone, 213–216, 221, 222,
22 3
eccentric, 58, 66
external-bearing, 203, 205, 206,
209–210
height, 384, 38 6, 410
installing, 83, 208–216, 221
integrated-spindle, 216, 217
ISIS, 198, 213
ISO, 206
noise in, 221–224
overhauling, 109, 216–2 21, 223
PF24: 205, 210–211, 220
PF30: 204, 220
Shimano, 207, 209, 213, 215
square-taper, 198, 203 , 208
threaded, 206 –2 07, 217 –220, 35 0 thr eadless, 2 04 , 210 –212 , 219
Box-cutter knife, 6
Brake boosters, 189, 194, 410
Brake hoses, 46, 164, 166, 173
installing, 189
Brake levers, 96, 152–155, 177, 184,
25 5
positioning, 152–154
removing, 96, 152–154, 258
shift cables and, 88
squeezing, 15, 163
Brake pads, 23, 42, 126, 164, 174,
299, 410adjusting, 151, 177, 180, 181,
188–189, 193
checking, 15, 156
cleaning, 156
cottered, 155, 156, 157
disc, 155–157
offset of, 177–178, 182
removing, 166, 171
replacing, 166, 179–180, 181, 191,
192, 193
rims and, 40–41
spacing, 149, 158, 166
toeing in, 18 3, 19 1, 193 –194
worn, 148, 150, 193
Brake reach, adjusting, 154–155
Brakes, 23, 24, 152, 154, 170–171,
173, 183, 185, 186, 410
bleeding, 168–170
checking, 15, 16, 22
curved-face, 183
cylindrical-arm, 18 3
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
424
cylindrical-clamp, 182
disconnecting, 328, 3 31
feel of, 184
Hayes, 157, 159, 168–170, 173
hub, 414
linkage, 148, 190, 194
mounting, 162-163
opening, 40–41
options for, 147–148releasing, 16–17, 23, 148, 150
rim, 16, 149, 150, 301
rubbing, 370
Shimano, 88–89, 9 5, 167, 185
troubles hoot ing w ith, 19 2–19 4
See also Cantilever brakes; Disc
brakes; Hydraulic brakes;
Roller-cam brakes; U-brakes;
V-brakes
Braking, 291, 322
chattering/vibration when, 183,
369, 372, 374, 375
problems with, 369–370
Brushes, 24, 26
Buckets, 24
Bushings, 180, 181, 211, 231, 234,
330, 334, 335, 353, 354, 355,
356, 35 8, 361, 410
replacing, 359–360
Cable cutters, 6, 86
Cable stops, 348, 410
Cable tension, 72, 76–78, 107
adjusting, 71, 74, 85, 148–149, 151,
152, 186, 230–231, 396Cables, 76, 97, 148–154, 178, 185,
190, 2 51, 311, 410
broken, 45– 46
clamping, 40– 41
Gore-Tex, 86, 94, 95, 178
installing, 22, 74, 92–93, 94, 150
loose, 40–41, 85
lubricating, 30, 94–9 5, 107, 149,
150
maintaining, 103, 149, 152, 192
replacing, 30, 85, 87– 92, 149, 150,
152
shift, 80, 85, 88, 89–90Shimano, 89–90
sticky, 68, 107
ty ing, 43
worn, 151, 193
Calipers, 11, 41, 150, 156, 163, 170,
313, 410
cleaning, 171–173
disc-brake, 31, 161, 162, 173–174
hydraulic, 156, 171–173
measuring, 415
mounting, 161–162
overhauling, 173–174
postmount, 163
Cantilever brakes, 16, 22, 31, 41,
147–148, 149, 150, 151, 175–180,
411
curved-face, 183
overhauling, 180 –187
sidepull, 417
Cantilevers, 147, 148, 150, 151, 152,
194, 417
Carbon-grip compound, 9
Cartridge bearings, 103, 133–136,
208, 219, 231, 276, 279, 280,
286, 358 , 359, 411
angular-contact, 27 7, 278, 281
cleaning, 133 –134
lubricating, 31
See also Ball bearings
Cartridge-removal tool, 340
Cartridges, 208, 352
air inflation, 35
Centering, 126, 178–179, 301–3 03
Chain cleaners, 26, 53–5 4
Chain elongation, checking for,
55–56, 67, 69
Chain-elongation gauges, 3, 55– 56,
69
Chain gap, 78–79
Chain keepers, 7
Chain length, determining, 57–59, 7 3
Chain links, 411loosening, 67
replacing, 38, 56, 60
spacing between, 6 6
spare, 13
tigh t/st if f, 6 6, 6 7
twisted, 3 6– 38
Chain retention devices, 100–101
Chain stops, 110
Chain suck, 66– 67, 107, 201, 370, 411
Chain tensioner, 101
Chain tools, 2–3, 12, 33, 38, 42, 5 6,
59, 61, 62
Chain whips, 6, 7, 138, 139, 140, 141,142, 411
Chainlines, 85, 107–108, 224, 411
measuring, 108–110
Chainring bolts, 195, 201, 202, 222
Chainring-cassette removal tools, 6
Chainring-nut tools, 6, 202, 411
Chainrings, 27, 37, 42–45, 51, 53, 55,
57, 58, 60, 64, 65, 195, 197–202,
216, 411
bent, 201
chainstays and, 223–225
cleaning, 26, 66, 200
inner, 109, 22 3
inspecting, 66, 200–201
installing, 66, 202
jammed chains and, 36
loose, 221
maintaining, 200
middle, 10
spindles and, 209
worn, 200
Chains, 411
assembling, 51–52
broken, 38, 54, 56, 57, 59
cleaning, 26–2 7, 52–55, 66
connecting, 57, 59– 61
dropping, 110, 370
jammed, 15, 36–38, 370
lubricating, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30,
51–54, 66, 6 7, 74, 105, 254
maintaining, 152
measuring, 140
removing, 27, 44, 45, 54 –57, 63
replacing, 55, 62, 67, 68, 74, 150
Shimano, 26, 56, 59, 60–61, 62
skipping, 67, 107, 370
slapping, 370, 372
squeaking, 67
SRAM, 54 , 56, 61, 62
troubles hooting , 66 –6 9
with twisted link, 37–38
wiping, 25, 26, 27, 30, 52– 53, 67Wippermann, 37, 54, 56, 62, 6 7, 69
Chainstays, 23, 40, 43, 6 5, 66, 74,
81, 102, 103, 109, 159, 213, 34 9,
361, 367, 411
chain suck and, 67
chainrings and, 223–225
jammed chains and, 36
Circlips, 208, 211, 212, 220, 313, 327,
33 6
Clamps, 58, 81, 82, 83, 254 , 255, 276
cylindrical, 182
saddle, 245, 246
seatpost, 31, 46, 253, 254split, 153
See also Stem clamps
Cleats, 226, 230
adjusting, 227–229, 240
installing, 227–229
loose, 239–24 0
Clunking noises, problems with,
222–223, 372
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INDEX
425
Cog-wear indicator gauge, 11
Cogs, 51, 55, 58, 64, 73, 74, 75, 77,
78, 79, 108, 111, 127, 137–146,
209, 411
cassette, 138–141
checking, 67–68
cleaning, 26, 5 3, 138, 139, 140
removing, 68, 102, 138, 139, 140,
145–146replacing, 68, 139, 140, 141
worn, 67, 139, 140
Compression, 316, 357, 358, 3 61
Compression damping, 321–3 22,
362, 365, 366, 411
adjusting, 316, 323, 32 5, 364
Compression rings, 273, 276, 27 8
Concentric-pivot systems, 43, 65,
102
Cones, 6, 127, 128–133, 213–216,
221, 222, 22 3, 236, 237, 409, 411
Crank bolts, 195, 197, 199, 200, 222 ,
411
Crank extraction tools, 197
Crank pullers, 6, 195, 198
Crankarms, 84, 195, 197–202, 210,
211, 216, 217, 221, 22 5, 226 , 227,
244, 363, 385, 411
length/determining, 388
loose, 222–223
removing/installing, 202, 212,
215, 218
Cranks
custom, 388
hard-to-turn, 223integrated-spindle, 195, 197,
198–199, 203, 204, 205
length, 390, 411
removing/installing, 195, 197–200
Shimano, 197, 199, 202 , 207
square taper, 197, 199
troubleshooting, 2 21–224
Cranksets, 195, 210, 412
BB30: 204, 219
external-bearing, 207
lubricating, 31
three-piece, 197, 19 9, 2 03 , 20 4,
207–209Truvativ, 209, 210, 218, 219
two-piece, 20 3, 2 07
Creaking noises, 372
bottom bracket, 221–222
crank, 221–222
handlebar, 287
pedaling, 207, 239–240
seatpost, 254
Crowfoot sockets, 11, 412
Crown-race punches, 285
Crown-race removers, 11, 283, 28 4
Cup removal tools, 7
Cups, 412
adjustable, 207, 215, 216, 221, 409
bearing, 207, 211, 212, 409
bottom bracket, 30, 83, 213, 217,
223, 350
fixed, 214, 413
Damping, 318, 357, 412
adjusting, 325–326, 327, 334
changing oil and, 336 –33 8,
355–356
compression, 316, 321–322 , 323,
325, 362, 364, 365, 366, 411
hydraulic, 262, 309 –310, 314
preload, 363–3 64
pressurizing, 358
rebound, 318, 320– 321, 323, 325,
361, 362, 364, 365, 366, 416
Damping adjusters, 326, 327, 334,
36 5
Damping systems, 325, 336–338
Derailleur cages, 42, 68, 8 4, 107
Derailleur-hanger alignment tools,
11, 68, 34 9
Derailleurs, 23, 27, 47, 57, 71–80,
80–85, 209, 412
adjusting, 68, 71, 74–80, 83–85,
20 0
bent, 43, 68, 107
bottom-pull/top-pull, 82broken, 71, 103
bypassing, 44
cables and, 82, 85, 92 –94
chain length and, 57
disassembling, 88, 106
down-swing, 81
E-type, 81, 82–83, 209, 213, 223
installing, 73–74, 82–83
lubricating, 30, 105
maintaining, 26, 53, 103–106
positioning, 83, 84, 107
repairing, 42–44
replacing, 69, 79, 105, 106Shimano, 45, 46, 71, 73, 74–75,
76, 77, 79, 82–83, 84, 87, 88, 92,
106, 107, 213
spokes and, 370, 372
SRAM, 78, 82 , 87, 106, 107
top-swing, 81, 2 24
troubleshooting , 107 –110
worn, 67, 107
Disc-brake pads, checking/replac-
ing, 155–157
Disc brakes, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148, 152,
155–164, 166–175, 192, 412
adjusting, 158–164, 166
cable-actuated, 155
installing, 158–164, 166
overhauling, 171–174
Dishing, 301–303, 3 49, 367, 412
Dishing tools, 7, 301, 302, 412
Drills, 11
Drivetrains, 60, 65, 74, 101, 107, 292,
412
cleaning, 24–2 6
wear/tear on, 55
Dropout-alignment tools, 11, 341–
343, 342, 344, 367–368
Dropout Saver, 351
Dropouts, 18, 20, 23, 24 , 65, 66, 71,
73, 78, 102, 109, 128, 309, 311,
349, 412
aligning, 68, 342–343, 344, 366
aluminum/titanium, 368
bent, 80, 312, 344
bolt-on, 367
inspecting, 348
sliding, 58
spacing, 3 41, 342
thickness of , 351
Duct tape, 14
Dust caps, 144, 199, 200, 23 6, 237,
239, 412
Dust covers, 143, 237
Easy-outs, 354, 412
Elastomers, 249, 262 , 309, 311, 314,
315, 318, 319, 324– 326, 32 7,
331, 361, 412
End caps, 86, 152, 410, 412
Fasteners, torque for, 396– 407
(table)
Feeler gauges, 11
Files, 6
Firmly tightened, 29, 395
Foot pounds (ft-lbs), Newton-
meters and, 397Fork braces, 311, 315
Fork-crown race punch, 7
Fork-crown race remover, 283
Fork-crown races, 281, 282–28 4,
285–286
Fork crowns, 309, 310, 311, 312, 313,
315, 413
clamping, 26 8
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
426
fork legs and, 316, 327–3 28
Fork legs, 40, 30 9, 311, 315, 325
damaged, 313
fork crowns and, 316
removing, 327–328
telescoping, 310
Fork rake, 309, 413
Fork travel, 319
changing, 323, 338-339measuring, 315– 317
Forks, 16, 18, 115, 289, 310, 317, 413
air-sprung, 312, 326–32 7
alignment of, 312, 313, 314, 318,
341–344
aluminum, 314, 343
carbon-fiber, 314, 34 3
coil-spring, 311, 319, 324–32 6, 327
double-crown, 327, 328, 330
failure of, 311, 312
headset installation and, 284–2 85
high-end, 321, 331
inspecting, 311–313, 313– 314
linkage, 312, 314
lubricating, 31, 314
maintaining, 313–314, 314– 315
Manitou, 34, 159, 331
movement of, 321, 322
overhauling, 314, 330 –331,
334–336
rebound damping and, 321
removing, 277, 280, 282, 330–331,
341
rigid, 309, 313–314, 344
RockShox, 326, 327, 328, 3 37,338–339, 340, 357
SID, 326, 327, 337
single-crown, 327, 328
steel, 341, 344
stuck stems in, 287
suspension, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189,
263, 282, 284, 309, 310, 313,
314, 314–315, 317–324, 330,
384, 386
telescoping, 310, 312, 314
threaded, 26 5– 26 6, 2 67, 312
tit anium, 314, 3 43
triple- clamp, 32 7–32 8, 3 30 tuni ng, 3 14, 3 15, 317–32 7
upside-down, 419
Frame size
body measurements and,
385–388
correct, 384–3 85
finding, 383, 386–3 87
Frames, 31, 208, 212, 289, 413
alignment of, 366–368
carbon, 347, 348
cleaning, 34 8
designing, 345, 347
diamond, 345, 412
headset installation and, 284–2 85
suspension, 101–102, 347, 358 –
361, 368, 386, 389, 390
ty pes o f, 24 9, 3 47
Freehubs, 78, 134, 137–146, 413
disassembling, 14 4
lubricating, 142–146
overhauling, 111
removing, 144, 146
seized, 47
solvents and, 142, 144
Freewheel removers, 7, 141
Freewheels, 127, 137–146, 413
lubricating, 30, 146
maintaining, 111
replacing, 6 8, 111, 141
seized, 47
Front triangles, 345, 347, 34 9, 413
Gauges, 56, 57, 68
Gear development, 375–381
for 26-inch wheels, 376– 378
(table)
for 29-inch wheels, 381–3 83
(table)
Gloves, 13, 55
Grease, 4, 13, 137, 201
molybdenum disulfide, 94
nonlithium, 6, 92, 97, 335silicone-based, 6
Slick Honey, 251, 335, 355, 357,
35 9
Teflon, 92, 97
Grease guns, 6, 136, 142
Grip Shifts, 29, 78, 9 4, 95, 107, 258,
413
long/short, 97, 98
overhauling, 91–9 2
replacing, 96–97
Grips, 111, 255, 266
installing, 95–96, 257–258
removing, 95–96, 153, 25 7, 258 trimming, 2 58
Hacksaw, 6
Hammers
ball-peen, 6, 7
soft, 7
Handlebar height, 385, 388, 389–390
adjusting, 266, 392
Handlebar position, 242, 244, 2 63,
266, 388–391
Handlebar reach, 384–385, 388, 390
Handlebar slips, 286–2 87
Handlebars, 251, 255, 257, 258– 260,
273, 315, 325, 413
broken, 47, 260, 2 87
carbon, 154, 260, 39 3
drop, 384– 385
installing, 258–259
knees and, 383, 384
maintaining, 16, 259–260
overtightened, 259, 393
replacing, 258, 259–260, 266
riser, 255, 391
saddles and, 390
troubles hooting , 28 6–28 7
tw ist ing, 259, 2 66 , 26 7
ty pes o f, 2 60 , 26 6
undertightened, 393
Hangers, 13, 43, 69, 78, 8 0, 366, 410,
412
alignment of, 349–350
bent, 68, 107, 349–350
brake-cable, 271, 2 81
derailleur, 348, 349–350, 351
straddle-cable, 184
Head angles, 309, 413
Head tubes, 277, 278, 282, 28 4, 286,
367, 388, 413
measuring, 268, 270
Headlights, 14
Headset cups, 286
removing, 276, 282Headset presses, 7, 11, 285–2 86
Headset rockets, 282
Headsets, 255, 263, 270–286, 312,
313, 413
adjusting, 265, 268, 272–276, 279,
282, 286, 287
cartridge-bearing, 272
cupless, 268, 277, 278, 282
installing, 284–286
integrated, 270, 271, 274, 278,
284, 414
loose-ball, 278, 281
loosening, 274–275overhauling, 276–282
overtightening, 275
pitted, 275, 287
press-in internal with lipped
cups, 268
replacing, 281, 282–28 4, 287
semi-integrated, 270
threaded, 273 –2 76, 279– 28 2, 418
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INDEX
427
threadless, 2 69 , 27 0–27 2, 2 76 –
279, 285, 387, 390
tight , 272–273, 274 –275, 287
tradit ional , 168, 2 70
troubleshooting, 2 86 –2 87
Hex keys, 12, 29, 47, 414
metric, 2, 7, 20, 40, 41, 42
HG-IG check tool, 68, 139
Hose cutters, 11Housing, 76, 77, 82, 89, 90, 9 2, 148–
152, 185, 193, 273, 410
cutting, 11, 86, 153
friction and, 150
index-shift, 86
installing, 74, 87
lower-knuckle, 79
lubricating, 30, 85, 94– 95, 151, 152
replacing, 30, 152
sticky, 68
Teflon-lined, 150, 151
Hubs, 102, 103, 127–137, 231, 30 6,
414
assembling, 131–132
cartridge-bearing, 127, 128,
132–136
cup-and-cone, 127, 128–133
DT Swiss, 28, 125, 133, 134, 142,
145
front, 127, 292
Grease Guard, 136–137
high-end, 128, 136
internal-gear, 101–103
lubricating, 131–132
overhauling, 111, 127–136replacing/flipping, 141–142
sealed-bearing, 127, 128
wheelbuilding and, 289, 2 91, 292,
29 9
Hydraulic brakes, 42, 99, 107, 148,
150, 158, 166–173, 187–190,
192, 193, 194, 414
bleeding, 31, 166, 168, 170, 171,
189–190
disconnecting, 32 8
replacing pads on, 189
Hydraulic fluid, 158, 166, 167, 169,
170, 171, 172, 173, 194Hydraulic oil, 325
Inertial valves, 322, 325, 327, 365,
414
adjusting, 323, 364
Inner legs, 310, 314, 327, 334, 335,
336, 33 7, 339, 414
installing, 328, 330
Inner tubes, 114, 122, 123, 251
finding leaks in, 115–116
inflating, 35, 36
installing, 36, 118–120
patching, 36, 116
removing, 111–112
spare, 2, 12–13, 34– 35
ty ing k nots in, 35
International Organization for
Standardization (ISO), 117, 159
Interrupted-seat-tube configura-
tions, 3 87, 3 88
Jockey wheels, 27, 43, 5 8, 59, 68, 73,
74, 78, 80, 414
bolts, 106
cartridge-bearing, 104 –105
lost, 44–45
maintaining, 68, 103–105
wiping, 26, 53
Knee clearance, 38 4
Lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299, 306
checking, 299, 3 07
radial, 304–305
three-cross , 304 –3 05
Leaks
finding, 115–116
sealing, 122, 123, 124
Leverage, 154–155, 166, 176, 177, 414
Levers, 89, 90, 150, 170, 173
lockout, 362, 364
Shimano, 87–88, 99 –100, 107, 155split-clamp, 153
SRAM, 87, 95, 97, 155
See also Brake levers; Quick-
release levers; Tire levers
Lickton’s SuperLink, 61
Limit screws, 73, 107
adjusting, 46, 71, 74, 75–76, 78,
84, 85
Locknuts, 58, 133, 145, 146, 149, 152,
237, 271, 273, 275, 281, 414
loosening, 128–129, 132, 151, 274
removing, 236, 280
tigh tening, 132Lockouts, 316, 362, 364 , 414
Lockring tools, 6, 160
Lockrings, 78, 140, 160, 207, 213,
224, 414
adjustable-cup, 22 3
removing, 139, 221
tigh tening, 215–216
Loctite, 28, 68 , 77, 136, 212, 222 ,
231, 313
Lubrication, 30–31, 128, 330
ball bearing, 31, 131, 132, 281, 286
cable, 30, 94– 95, 107, 149, 150
chain, 4, 13, 25–26, 27, 30, 51–54,
66, 67, 74, 105, 254
crankset, 31
derailleur, 30, 105
fork, 31, 314
freehub, 142–146
freewheel, 30, 146
housing, 30, 85, 94– 95, 151, 152
hub, 131–132
pedal, 31, 239–240
piston, 173, 190
quill, 281
saddle, 31
seatpost, 31, 254, 266, 348
shifters, 30
wheel, 30
Magnet, 7
Master cylinders, 173, 415
Master links, 13, 33, 42, 54, 57,
59–60, 61, 63–64, 67, 69, 415
Matches, 14, 48
Money, 14
patching sidewalls with, 3 6
Morningstar Drumstix tool, 175
Morningstar Freehub Buddy, 7, 142,
143, 144
Morningstar Freehub Soup, 142,
143, 144
Morningstar Rotors on Center (ROC)dial-indicator tool, 10, 174–175
Mounting bolts, 69, 105, 192 , 415
Mounts
broken, 348
disc-brake, 309, 351
IS, 159, 313
ISCG, 101
Multitools, 12, 38
Needle bearings, 279, 280, 415
Newton-meters (N-m), foot-pounds
and, 397
Nipples, 124, 127, 290, 292, 29 3, 294,307–308, 415
tightening /loosening, 125, 29 9,
300, 301, 302, 303
ty pes o f, 126, 2 91, 3 08
O-rings, 144, 158, 164, 172, 337, 354,
355, 357, 362–363
Off-center rims (OCR), 292, 293, 308
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
428
Outer legs, 310, 312, 315, 323, 32 8,
330, 334, 415
Oversteering, 319, 322, 324
Overtightening, 259, 272, 275, 393
Pad spacers, 12, 190
Pad swing, 182
Pad-to-rim adjustment, 176–178,
187, 189, 192Pad twist, 182
Parts washer, 7
Patch glue, 116
Patch kits, 2, 12, 34–3 5, 36, 116
Patches, 35, 36
applying, 116–118
Pedal overlap, 385, 415
Pedal platforms, 317, 321, 322, 325,
36 2
Pedaling, 308, 311, 317, 322
creaking with, 207, 375
knee/joint pain while, 240
resistance while, 58, 371
stance, 415
Pedals, 235, 415
cage-type, 225
cartridge-bearing, 238–239
clip-in, 225, 226, 227–231,234,
236, 24 0, 371, 411
clunking by, 371
Crank Brothers, 228, 22 9, 230,
234, 238, 239
flat, 225
installing, 226–227, 239
Look, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232–233,234, 235, 238
loose-bearing, 31, 236 –237,
lubricating, 31, 239–24 0
Onza, 230–231, 238
overhauling, 231–232, 234–239
play in, 223, 371
release tension for, 227, 22 9–2 31,
371
removing, 226–227
Ritchey, 232, 235, 238, 239
Scott, 235
Shimano, 231, 232, 234, 235
Speedplay, 229, 231, 234, 2 35, 240Time, 228, 229, 230, 231, 232, 234,
235, 238, 239, 240
troubleshooting, 2 39 –24 0
Pedro’s Green Fizz, 24
Pedro’s Ice, 31
Pedro’s Syn Lube, 30
Phil Wood Tenacious Oil, 145
Pin spanners, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221,
415
Pistons, 166, 337, 338, 356, 358
cleaning, 172–173
disc-brake, 157–158
lubricating, 173
pushing back, 157–158
Pivot bolts, 415
Pivots, 154, 155, 194, 312, 313, 415
bushing, 31
derailleur, 69, 79
loose, 107
lubricating, 152, 190
maintaining, 106, 358–359
overhauling, 105
Pliers, 2, 14, 37
Channel-lock, 6
master-link, 7, 63, 64
snapring, 6
Vise-Grip, 63
Postmounts, 159, 161, 163, 309, 313,
351
PowerLink, 61, 63, 64
Preload, 319, 322, 324, 36 2, 363
Preload adjusters, 331, 362,
363–364
Press fit systems, 204, 205, 220
ProGold ProLink, lubricating with,
51, 67
Pulling, problems with, 3 69
Pumps, 2, 12, 35, 124
floor, 120
shock, 4, 12, 326
Punctures, 15, 16
fixing, 34– 36preventing, 33–34
snakebite, 34, 35, 120, 124
Quick-release (QR), 416
Quick-release (QR) levers, 148, 188
Quick-release (QR) seatpost bind-
ers, 248, 388
Quick-release (QR) skewers, 2 0, 22 ,
34, 45, 139, 142, 342
checking, 15
installing, 132
opening, 17–18
removing, 128, 141 tightening, 19
Quills, 265, 416
lubricating, 281
Race Face, 197, 199, 210, 416
Races, 127, 136, 409, 416
fork-crown, 281, 282–2 84,
285–286
Rags, 4
Rattling noises, 287
Really tight, 30, 396
Reamers, 11
Rear triangles, 43, 65, 102, 3 42, 34 5,
416
Rebound damping, 318, 320 –321,
361, 362, 364, 416
adjusting, 321, 323, 325, 365, 366
Release tension adjustment, 22 7,
229–231, 240, 371
Ride height. See Sag
Rim strips, 35, 118, 121
Rims, 16, 121, 149, 150, 416
bent , 41, 111
brake pads and, 40– 41
cleaning, 192–193, 30 3
deep-section, 112
disc-brake, 301
drilling, 308
examining, 120
off-center, 292, 293, 308
replacing, 291
scraping, 125, 299, 3 00
spokes and, 124–127
tubeless, 2 93
wheelbuilding and, 289, 292, 29 4
Roller-cam brakes, 17, 150, 190,
191–192, 194, 416
Rotors, 127, 304
bent, 175
bolting, 160–161
cleaning, 193
installing/removing, 159–161splined, 159, 160, 161
tru ing, 41–42, 174 –175
Rubbing alcohol, 4, 2 57
Rubbing noises, problems with, 373
Saddle height, 240, 243, 24 8, 388
Saddle position, 242, 244, 24 6, 247,
253, 388–389
Saddles, 391, 416
adjusting, 243
choosing, 241–242
clamping, 245
handlebars and, 390installing, 245–246, 247–248
lubricating, 31
maintaining, 242
shape/design of, 2 42
troubleshooting problems with ,
253–254
Sag, 315, 319, 324, 361, 366, 416
measuring, 316–317, 318
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INDEX
429
setting, 362–363
Saw guide, 263
Scraping noises, problems with, 3 73
Screwdrivers, 12, 42, 43 , 45, 46
bent-shaft spoke-nipple, 10
Phillips-head, 2
Sealants, 9, 16, 34, 35, 120, 122 –124,
417
aerosol, 123glycol-based, 122, 123
latex-based, 122
tubeless tir es and, 121, 123 –124
Seals, 173, 178, 216, 217, 328, 330,
356, 357, 359
bearing, 136, 277
cleaning, 354–355
installing, 278, 281
quad, 355
removing, 218, 355
square, 158, 355
Seat bags, 33, 42
Seat tubes, 45, 80, 82, 248, 249, 254,
367, 416
length of, 386, 387
Seatpost clamps, 31, 46, 253
lubricating, 254
Seatposts, 241, 243, 384, 3 89, 417
adjusting, 249–251
aluminum, 245, 252, 253, 254
broken, 47
carbon, 245, 251–252
Crank Brothers, 249, 250, 251, 388
extensions, 244
GravityDropper, 249, 250, 251, 388height-adjustable, 249–2 51, 388
installing, 246, 248–249
lubricating, 31, 254, 3 48
maintaining, 244–245
Maverick, 249, 250, 251
position of, 244, 250
removing, 46, 244, 248, 251–253
single-bolt, 246
stuck, 251–253
suspension, 244–245, 249, 254
troubleshooting problems wi th,
253–254
two-bolt , 24 6, 2 47Seatstays, 23, 65, 3 49, 367, 417
Setscrews, 29, 79, 98, 106, 133, 185,
186, 191, 248, 331, 349
Shifters, 92, 95–103, 255
adjusting, 74–80, 83– 85
derailleurs and, 107
dual-lever trigger, 152
friction, 413
indexed, 76–78, 414
lubricating, 30
maintaining, 97–103
removing, 258
replacing, 90– 91, 96
Shimano, 77, 88, 96, 177, 416
SRAM, 90–91, 95, 107
thumb, 8 7– 88, 97, 10 0, 418
troubleshooting , 107 –110
twist , 90– 91, 9 6– 97, 98, 9 9, 10 3,
153, 154, 419
Shifting, 371
adjusting, 73
checking, 16
optimizing, 78, 95
ramps, 200
Shimano Pedaling Dynamics (SPD),
22 6
Shimmying, 369
Shims, 78, 82, 163, 356, 417
Shocks, 310, 356, 35 8, 363
air, 361, 362
coil spring, 361
deflating, 353
downhill courses and, 365–3 66
elastomer, 361, 3 62
inspecting, 348–349
installing, 355
maintaining, 352, 353
removing, 353–35 4
saddle, 241
Shoes, 225, 228
Shop, well-stocked, 9–11
Shuddering, while braking, 183Sidewalls, 114
patching, 36, 121, 122, 124
Skewers, 133, 135, 417
bolt-on, 18, 20
quick-release, 15, 17–18, 19, 20,
22, 34, 4 5, 128, 132, 139, 141,
142, 342
tigh tening, 19, 2 0
Slick Honey grease, 251, 335, 355,
357, 359
Slime, 34, 417
Snug, 29, 395
Solvents, 130citrus, 53, 54, 55, 105, 135, 2 21,
277, 280
freehubs and, 142, 144
using, 26–27, 54
Spacers, 128, 132, 157, 159, 213, 263,
265, 274, 276, 278, 279, 315,
323, 417
adding, 209
internal, 339–340
removing, 129
Spacing, 66, 149, 166, 341, 342, 3 44,
34 9
brake pad, 158
crank-to-frame, 2 24
pad-to-rotor, 163
problems/remedying, 77–78
Spanners, 417
pin, 7, 29, 215, 216, 221, 415
toothed-lockring, 2 9
Spiders, 102, 201, 417
Spindle removal tool, 6
Spindles, 109, 210, 227
bottom-bracket, 66, 203, 209,
211–212, 223
chainrings and, 20 9
installing, 212
integrated, 195, 197, 198–199, 20 3,
204, 20 5, 216, 217
pedal, 6, 227
splined, 207
square-taper, 207
upgrading, 239
Splines, 29, 140, 141, 160, 207, 417
Spoke calculator, 290, 291
Spoke-prep compound, 291
Spoke tension, 10, 124, 292 , 301
reducing, 308
Spoke-tension gauge, 10
Spokes, 76, 290, 417
adjusting, 39, 40, 127, 299, 300,
301, 302, 303
broken, 39–4 0, 41, 124, 126–127converging parallel, 299
crossing, 299, 307
derailleurs hitting, 3 70
first set of, 293–294, 305
fourth set of, 297–299, 306
Kevlar, 40
lacing, 289, 294, 296, 297–299
length of, 290
prestressing, 302, 303
pulling, 293, 303, 308
radial, 308
replacing, 38– 40, 126–127, 291
rims and, 124–127second set of, 294–295, 305–306
spare, 13, 40
thicknes s, 2 90 , 307– 30 8
third set of , 29 6– 29 7, 30 6
twisted, 12 5
weaving, 126–127
Spoking patterns, 308
one-cross, 289, 291, 306–307
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ZINN & THE ART OF MOUNTAIN BIKE MAINTENANCE
430
radial, 291, 293, 303–305
three-cross , 289, 291, 29 7, 30 4–
306, 418
two-cross , 28 9, 2 91, 3 06 –3 07
Spring preload, 318, 319, 324, 36 3,
417
Spring rate, 318, 319, 320, 324, 3 62,
36 5
adjusting, 108, 323, 366Spring tension, 178–179, 191
adjusting, 185–186
Springs, 230, 356, 365, 36 6, 417
air, 251, 314, 324
coil, 314, 315, 319, 320, 324– 325,
331
increasing tension of, 66
negative, 326, 327, 363
positive, 326
removing, 315–316
soft, 318
stiff, 318
Squeaking noises, 372, 37 3
with saddles, 254
Squealing noises, 373
with breaking, 157, 373
Stand-over height, 345, 383, 384,
386, 387, 418
“Stan’s No Tubes” tubeless system,
120–121, 418
Star-nut installation tools, 7, 274
Star nuts, 263, 26 4, 274, 279, 418
Steering
axis, 309, 418
stiff, 372systems, 111, 255
Steering-tube overlap, 263, 27 8
Steering tubes, 267, 268, 27 0, 271,
273, 275, 276, 278, 279, 280,
281, 283, 284–285, 309, 310,
311, 418
carbon, 263, 264, 274
clamping, 28 2
cutting, 285
fork alignment and, 341, 342–3 43,
34 4
lubricating, 266
stripped threads on, 313stuck stems in, 287
threaded, 26 0, 312 , 313
threadless, 2 60 , 26 2–265, 312
Stem bolts, 265, 282, 287
Stem clamps, 259, 262, 263, 265,
268, 270, 2 79, 287, 312
spreading, 26 7
tigh tening, 274
Stem length, 263, 285, 38 8, 390, 418
Stem wedges, 265, 270
Stems, 255, 260, 262–268, 273, 275,
278, 285, 418
adjusting, 262–266, 268, 385
broken, 266
checking, 16
clamp-type, 262, 267
front-opening, 258
installing, 262–266
quill-type, 265, 281, 416
removing, 260, 262, 265, 266–268,
28 0
stuck, 266–268, 287
suspension, 26 2
torque on, 3 93
troubleshooting, 2 86 –2 87
Stopscrews, 45, 80
Straddle cables, 190–191, 418
adjusting, 184–185
Subpins, 57, 59, 60, 61
Suspension, 111
aligning, 343
cables and, 150
fork, 20, 31, 46, 128, 189, 263, 282,
284, 30 9, 310, 313, 314–315,
317–324, 330, 384, 386
frame, 101–102, 3 47, 358–3 61,
368, 386, 389, 390
maintaining, 249
problems with, 372
rear, 43, 47, 81, 108, 128, 147, 318,
347, 361–365
seatpost, 244–245, 249, 254stem, 262
tuning, 361 –3 65
Swingarms, 23, 82, 347, 348–349,
351, 358, 36 3, 367, 418
Syringes, 7, 171, 189, 190, 338
Talcum powder, 2, 118
Tension gauge, 66
Third Eye Chain Watcher, 110
Threadlock compound, 201, 293,
313, 330, 394
Threads
fixing damaged, 350prepping/tightening, 27–28
Through-axles, 20–22, 23, 128
quick-release, 20, 21
removing/installing wheels with,
20
Thumb shifters, 97, 100, 418
replacing cable in, 87– 88
Tight, 29, 395
Tightness, 29–30, 3 93
Tire beads , 114, 115, 119, 120, 121,
418
Tire inflators, 13, 267
Tire levers, 2, 12, 114, 158, 418
Tire pressure, 6, 16, 120, 318
Tires
checking, 16, 118
deflating, 113, 116, 120, 123, 124
diameter of, 375
flat, 15, 16, 33–3 4, 112, 372, 374
inflating, 113, 120, 122, 124
installing, 36, 118–121
removing, 111–112, 114, 115, 342
size of, 117
standard, 120–121, 122
tubeless, 3 4, 111, 114, 115, 116,
120–121, 122, 123–124
Toeclips, 225
Toeing in, 183, 191, 193–194
Tool kits
Level 1: 1–4, 14
Level 2: 1, 4, 6
Level 3 : 1, 7, 9
Tools, 1, 31, 54, 90, 163, 223, 417
carrying/while riding, 11–14, 33,
48
Enduro, 218, 219
Mavic, 216
Phil Wood, 218
Shimano, 61, 62, 199, 285
termino logy of, 7 2
Top tubes, 387, 388, 419
Torque, 199, 200, 419for fasteners, 396–407 (table)
measuring, 393, 39 5
recommendations on, 39 7
setting, 394
tightening, 29 –3 0, 3 95
Triple-clamp forks, 327– 328, 33 0
Truing, 41, 124, 127, 303
lateral, 125, 299–301
radial, 301
side-to-side, 301
Truing stands, 7, 124, 126, 299, 300,
301, 302
Tubes. See Inner tubesTubing cutters, 11
Twist shifters, 90–91, 96–97, 98, 99,
103, 153, 154, 419
U-brakes, 16, 22, 148, 190 –191, 194,
419
Understeering, 322, 324
Undertightening, 393
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INDEX
431
V-brakes, 16, 17, 22, 31, 147, 148,
149, 152, 154, 155, 183, 190,
194, 419
adjusting, 176–179
installing, 176–179
overhauling, 175–180
parallel-push, 178, 179
Valve core removers, 7, 357, 358
Valve cores, 113, 123, 356, 3 57Valve extenders, 112, 113
Valve stems, 113, 114, 115, 119, 120
Valves, 115, 120
broken, 35
Presta, 34, 45, 112, 113, 114, 115,
118, 121, 123, 415
Schrader, 4, 34, 112, 115, 251, 320,
326, 32 7, 353, 416
Vibrations, braking and, 369
Vise, 6, 7
Vise grip, 6
Vise whips, 7, 138, 139, 141, 142, 419
Wheel-retention devices, 21, 419
Wheelbuilding, 40, 289–290, 303,
307–308
custom, 289
disc-brake, 291
front, 291, 293, 294
rear, 291, 293
Wheels, 343
bent, 38–41, 369for big riders, 307–3 08
centering, 301–303
disc-brake, 291, 292, 29 4, 303,
305–306
heavy-duty, 289
lubricating, 30
prestressing, 302
removing/installing, 16, 17–24,
111, 115, 128, 133, 150, 163, 166,
341, 342, 367
straightening, 38–41
truing, 40 , 124 –126, 299 –3 01
Wire, 14
Wrenches
adjustable, 2, 37, 113
Allen, 29, 409
cone, 6, 128, 132
crowfoot, 11, 412
fixed-cup, 223
headset, 6, 14, 274
metric, 2, 20open-end/box-end, 2, 12, 29
pedal, 13-14, 226
socket, 6, 29, 417
soft, 7
splined, 7, 9, 29
spoke, 4, 7, 13, 39, 40, 41, 124,
291, 299
torque, 7, 20, 20 0, 210, 2 29 , 312 ,
393– 394, 419
Torx, 6, 12, 29, 42, 2 01, 202, 419
Y-, 9
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About the author
Lennard Zinn is a bike racer, frame builder, and technical writer. He grew up cycling, skiing, whitewater
rafting, and kayaking—as well as tinkering with mechanical devices—in Los Alamos, New Mexico. After
receiving his physics degree from Colorado College, he became a member of the U.S. Olympic Development
Cycling Team. He went on to work in Tom Ritchey’s frame-building shop and has been producing custom
mountain, road, and triathlon frames, as well as custom cranks and stems, at Zinn Cycles since 1982
(www.zinncycles.com).
Zinn has been writing for VeloNews since 1989 and is the magazine’s senior technical writer. Other books
by Zinn are Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance (VeloPress, 3rd ed. 2009), Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes
(VeloPress, 2007), Zinn’s Cycling Primer (VeloPress, 2004), Mountain Bike Performance Handbook (MBI, 1998),
and Mountain Bike Owner’s Manual (VeloPress, 1998).
ABOUT THE ILLUSTRATOR
Todd Telander is a former mechanic and bike racer who devotes most of his time these days to artis-
tic endeavors. He attended the University of California at Santa Cruz, and while earning degrees in
Environmental Studies and Biology, he completed a graduate-level program in scientific illustration.
He has since studied fine art in several western states and was awarded an artist’s residency at Rocky
Mountain National Park. In addition to drawing bike parts, he paints and draws wildlife and landscapes
for publishers, museums, design companies, and individuals. You can see more examples of his work on
his website, www.toddtelander.com.
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Also available from VeloPress
Zinn & the Art of Road Bike Maintenance 3rd Edition Lennard Zinn applies his prodigious powers of mechanical expertise to the art and science of
road bike repair. Newcomers and experienced mechanics alike will benefit from the book’s
hundreds of illustrations (including exploded views of how components go together), its step-by-
step instructions for basic and advanced repair, and Zinn’s practical, time-saving maintenance
tips. Covers new and old bikes alike.
440 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-93403 0-42-4
Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes
Aerodynamics, Bike Fit, Speed Tuning, and Maintenance More than a repair manual, Zinn & the Art of Triathlon Bikes presents proven techniques to wring
more speed from today’s triathlon bicycles. With clear advice on bike fit and comfort, getting
aero, tuning for speed, and choosing wisely among equipment upgrades, the tips in this book
virtually guarantee faster bike splits. Of course, Zinn includes comprehensive maintenance and
repair instructions too, accompanied by more than 300 illustrations and step-by-step directions
to ensure trouble-free rides.
352 pages • $24.9 5ISBN 978-1-931382-97-7
Zinn’s Cycling Primer Maintenance Tips & Skill Building for Cyclists Drawing upon the research of cycling experts around the world, Zinn’s Cycling Primer is a one-
stop guide for improving your riding skills. Covering all aspects of road and mountain cycling,Lennard Zinn shows you how to improve your bike fit and bike handling skills, as well as your
training and recovery, injury prevention, core strength, and nutrition. Zinn also includes step-by-
step instructions for basic road and mountain bike maintenance, repair, and upgrades.
232 pages • $24.95ISBN 978-1-931382-43-4
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