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1The TC Times May - June 2013
TEXTILES COMMITTEES MONTHLY COMMUNICATIONVOL 1, ISSUE 4 MAY - JUNE 2013
TEXTILES COMMITTEE
1 9 6 3 - 2 0 1 3
year scommitted
to
the
grow
thofIndian
Textiles
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2The TC Times May - June 2013
News & Events
Cover Story
Ginners Speak
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Indian Technical Textile Association extends to Coimbatore,
Textiles Committee enters into an MoU with Government of Kerala
Visit of Indian Delegation to Brussels for the India-EU Joint Working Group and Bilateral Meetings.
Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories,
Program on Handloom Mark Scheme
Textiles Committee to formulate Textile Policy for Odisha,
Online Report Status Through LIMS
Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durrie & Farrukhabad Prints of Uttar Pradesh get GI recognition
Review Meeting of Handloom Mark Scheme
Business meet on Confedera business model at Karur
Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the activities of Textiles Committee
Workshop on Quality and Compliances for Wool Export
Development of Mandatory Standards For Textiles And Clothing in India: Status, Procedure And Way-Forward
Shri Anand Bhai Popat, Managing Director, Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd., Rajkot, Gujarat,
Shri Ashok Agrwal, Managing Director, Mulchand Phulchand Krishi Udyog Pvt. Ltd, Jalna, Maharashtra
Contents
Editor: Mr. Ganesh Bangar, Assistant Director, EP & QA Division
Associate Editor: Mr. S. Krishna Kumar, Field Officer, Market Research Wing
For your valuable comments & any queries please write to us at [email protected]
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3The TC Times May - June 2013
From The Secretarys DeskTextiles Committee as a facilitator to the textile trade & industry, through its activities such as
testing, consultancy services, cluster development activities, market research studies, quality
appraisal of textile products, handloom mark scheme and assessment & rating of G&P units.
As part of keeping the stakeholders of the industry informed about these activities, Textiles
Committee is publishing a newsletter, The TC Times. The current issue covers the activities
undertaken by Textiles Committee for the last two months. This issue features a lead article
on a different subject which describes the development of mandatory standards for the Textiles & Clothing sector in India.
I am sure that this issue will be interesting to the readers.
(Dr P. Nayak)
Secretary, Textiles Committee
Chairmans MessageThe fourth issue of the Textiles Committees newsletter, The TC Times, is coming out with an
article of an interesting subject to the stakeholders of the textile industry, the Status, Procedure
and Way-forward of Development of Mandatory Standards for the Indian Textiles and Clothing
sector. Textiles Committee has always been in the forefront of introducing new technology
into the system for the benet of the industry in the country. The Laboratory Information
Management System (LIMS) introduced by Committee is one such initiative of this kind. The
details of the LIMs are also featured in this issue.
I hope this issue of the Newsletter will be informative and interesting to the readers.
(S. P. Oswal)
Chairman, Textiles Committee
Shri A.B. Joshi, Textile Commissioner exchanging pleasantries with Mr. Petros Sourmelis, who is leading
the seventh EU-India Joint Working Group at Brussels.
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5The TC Times May - June 2013
May 28th -29th, 2013
An Indian delegation from the Ministry of Textiles visited Brussels during May 28-29, 2013 for
the Joint Working Group meeting and bilateral meetings on May 28 & 29, 2013. The delegation
comprised of Shri V. Srinivas, Joint Secretary (Exports), MoT, Govt. Of India; Shri A.B. Joshi, TextileCommissioner; Dr. P. Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee;
Shri Vijay Mathur, Secretary General, AEPC and Shri
Siddhartha Rajagopal, Executive Director, TEXPROCIL. The
EU delegation was headed by Mr. Petros Sourmelis, Head of
Unit, Market Access, Industry and Raw Materials.
Some of the areas deliberated during the meetings are (i)
Cotton and cotton yarn export policy; (ii) two subjects on
the conformity assessment issues such as Indias Marking
and Labeling Regulation Order of 2003 and EUs REACH
legislation; (iii) trade facilitation; and (iv) GSP benefits.
The delegation had a meeting with the representatives of
European Apparel and Textile Confederation (EURATEX) on
28th May 2013 on the sidelines of the annual convention of EURATEX. The EURATEX representatives
were joined by Eurocotton and Turkish Textiles and Clothing Exporters Association. The discussion
centered on compliance standards in Indian apparel industries, cotton yarn exports policy for 2013-
14. EURATEX welcomed the progress made in the Disha program and appreciated that the program
would be scaled up to cover 3000 factories in the 12th Plan period.
The Indian delegation held bilateral meetings with the senior officials of the EU along with their
respective Policy Officers on May 29, 2013. The issues covered in the discussions were (i) Indias
cotton and cotton yarn export policies, India achieving global competitiveness in textiles exports
and phasing out of export subsidies, both issues which had figured in WTO discussions; (ii) Indias
continued benefits under GSP and the guidelines that are to be put in place for GSP benefits from
2014-17 period; (iii) the modalities of technical assistance for enabling Indian apparel exporters to
improve compliance standards under REACH legislation; and (iv) the pace of growth of Indian textiles
industry and possible areas of collaboration in testing and laboratory standards for compliance.
The Indian delegation called on H.E. Ambassador Dinkar Khullar at the Embassy of India to the EU.
The meeting was also attended by DCM EOI Brussels Smt. Renu Sharma and Counsellor Commerce
EOI Brussels Ms. Nausheen J Ansari. The delegation briefed Ambassador of India on the progress
made in the Joint Working Group and the bilateral meetings.
Following the discussions, the roadmap for future engagement was identified as (a) review of Indias
textiles laboratories be taken up for testing azo-dyes and a comparative statement with criteria
prescribed under REACH may be drawn up; (b) paper on Technical Assistance for REACH will be
prepared by the Ministry of Textiles for sharing with European Union; (c) Given the potential for
expansion of Apparel Exports to EU in the backdrop of revival of demand in the EU markets, a
business to business forum between AEPC and representative associations in EU member countries
to be coordinated through the Embassy of India EU could be pursued; (d) The feasibility of cotton
fabric imports may be carefully assessed if relaxations are provided under the Marking and Labeling
Regulation Order of 2003.
VISIT OF INDIAN DELEGATION TO BRUSSELS FOR THE INDIA-EU JOINT WORKING GROUP AND
BILATERAL MEETINGS.
The delegation had a meeting
with the representatives of
European Apparel and Textile
Confederation (EURATEX) on
28th May 2013 on the sidelines
of the annual convention of
EURATEX.
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7The TC Times May - June 2013
Textiles Committee (TC), a statutory body,under the Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India,
was set up to promote quality in Textile Trade
& Industry. TC provide services like Textiles
Testing & Technical Services, Quality
Appraisal of textiles & Export Promotion,
Consultancy on ISO 17025 (QMS), 9000,
ISO 14000, SA 8000, and Training to
industrial & Educational institutes, through
its vast network of 30 regional offices and
16 Laboratories scattered all over major
textile clusters of India. The TC has, since
then, been serving the textile industry and
trade in the country with the objective of promoting quality
with special emphasis to export sector.
TC always strives to be customer friendly and transparent in
most of its activities. All 16 laboratories of TC are committed
to the timely disposal of testing activities and also maintain
the confidentiality of test results. Wherever required, the
laboratories invite the customers to witness tests and have
indisputably demonstrated the repeatability of test results. 9
of TC Laboratories are notified by DGFT for testing of import
consignment received from different customs. The payment
need to be made to TC by either importer or their agents
towards testing fee. After receipt of payment the test results
are forwarded to respective custom authorities. Laboratories
of TC, in order to become more efficient in its routine
activities, have initiated a pass book system wherein any
customer can deposit certain amount as advance payment
depending upon their volume of transactions. Test charges
of a pass book holder will be deducted as soon as tests are
over and the test report will be automatically forwarded to
respective customs. This will reduce the effort of customers
to wait till the test is over to ascertain and make the payment
for further action.
Laboratories of TC, in order to become more transparent in
its routine activities are implementing Laboratory Information
Management System (LIMS). The Mumbai laboratory of
Textiles Committee has already implemented LIMS and is
now working on it. In this system samples received from any
sources are registered on LIMS. Then the sample is taken for
testing and for further action. Status of samples at any stage
can be monitored by designated officials. Along with this,
laboratory has also initiated a digital display of information
related to receipt of sample, status of sample such as testing,
dispatch, payment, etc. This information is helpful to the
customer to know the status of the sample. This display
system was inaugurated by Honble Chairman of Textiles
Committee, Shri S.P. Oswal on 8th May 13 at Textiles
Committees Sample Counter.
While inaugurating the new facility, the Honble Chairman
appreciated the efforts taken by the Textiles Committee. He
urged Textiles Committee to be more customer friendly and
linking of LIMS information on to Textiles Committee website.
The Secretary, Textiles Committee Dr.P. Nayak and other
members of the Committee also graced the occasion.
Honble Chairman of Textiles Committee Shri S P Oswal inaugurating the LIMS Display facility
Online Report Status Through LIMS(from the date of Receipt of Samples to the Dispatch of Test Reports)u 8th May, 2013
TEXTILES COMMITTEE TO FORMULATE TEXTILE POLICY FOR ODISHA
Textiles Committee has prepared a proposal on the Roadmap for Development of Textiles Industry in Odisha as
part of the efforts of the Government of Odisha to formulate a Textile Policy for the state. The proposal has been
submitted to the Government of Odisha and subsequently presented by Dr. P.Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee
to a group of senior officers of the state government, in the presence Smt Aparajita Sarangi, IAS, Principal Secretary,Handlooms &Textiles, Government of Odisha on 13th June 2013, at the Conference Hall of the Directorate of
Textiles & Handlooms, Bhubaneswar. The H&T Commissioner accepted the proposal of the Textiles Committee to
formulate a Textile Policy for Odisha. As part of this project, a group of senior officers of the state government will
associate with Textiles Committee in the process of policy drafting. The proposed policy document will be submitted
to Government of Odisha by first week of November 2013.
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8The TC Times May - June 2013
Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durrie & Farrukhabad Prints of
Uttar Pradesh get GI recognition
Coupattia, Tambaku Mandi, Bibignaj, Zazirbagh, Ambarganj,
Yasingaj, Thakurganj, Musahebganj, Muftiganj, Hussainbad
Khadra, Dargah, Kazmain, Niwazganj, Baba Hazarabagh,
Gullu Ka Takia, Kakori, Malihabad, Nigohan, Mal, Bakshi
ka Talab, Rahimabad, Itaunga etc. The other places which
are more or less associated with the Zardozi activities are
Bababanki (Haidergarh) Hardoi (Sandila), Unnano (Mohan),
Sitapur (Sidhuli, Biswan, Misriksh and Laherpur), Sultanpur
(Musafirkhana), Kanpur, Khiri Lakhimpur (Lakhimpur urban)
etc.
A range of products are produced by the weavers in these
production centres. The products are scabbards for swords
and daggers, canopies, coats, caps, ghagras, covers for
boxes, combs and mirrors, umbrellas, fans, shoes, bags,
belts, saddle cloths, seat covers, carpets, bolsters, etc. and
a variety of other objects such as embroidered saris, suits,
dupattas and lehangas, Jackets, shirts, long skirts, and
longer scarves.
Zardozi as a technique is understood to be a distinctive style
of stitching as it differs from other traditions of embroidery
like kantha, kasuti, phulkari, etc. where the movement of the
threaded needle is guided by a variety of stitches. In other
embroideries silk, cotton or woolen threads are used, which
are pliable enough to move freely. However, in zardozi, the
Textiles Committee has extended technical support to the
state government for the registration of these products under
GI which involves preparation of the application, the statement
of case and its submission to the GI registry, defending the
case in the Consultative Committee meeting and preparing
compliance to the Examination Report.
The Lucknow Zardozi produced in the historical city of
Lucknow of Uttar Pradesh and the adjacent districts is
famous all over the country. The craft is not only providing
employment to about 2.50 lakh artisans but also people
from non- craft base are also earning their livelihood by
associating in the process of marketing of the product.
The number of non-artisan persons getting their bread and
butter from this craft is about one million. They are either
contractors, manufactures, retailers, raw material providers
or those employed by the manufacturers. Both urban and
rural folk of the region are largely depends on the activities
associated with the Zardozi craft. The places associated with
the production of Zardozi in Lucknow are Kashmiri Mohalla,
uThe well known products of Uttar Pradesh namely, Lucknow Zardozi, Agra Durries &Farrukhabad Prints have now been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) recognitionby the Geographical Indication Registry of the Government of India. The GI registration is
provided to those products which are manufactured in the territory of a region where a givenquality, reputation or other characteristics of such products is attributable to its geographical
origin. The registration of a product under the Geographical Indications act (GI Act) helps acommunity of producers to differentiate their products from other competing products in the
market and build goodwill around their products, which often fetches a premium price. For theconsumers, the Geographical Indications (GIs) are acting as a signaling device, which help
them to identify the original and genuine products and protect them against counterfeit ones.
LUCKNOW ZARDOSI
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9The TC Times May - June 2013
thread only acts as a binding medium, whereas the body of
the design is completed by laying varieties of metallic threads
in several shapes and forms along with beads, stones, beetle
wings, etc. The whole process is more indicative of appliqu
rather than embroidery. Thus it may be called metal appliqu.
This is further corroborated by the fact that zardozi always
get payments from amount of wire stitched on the cloth by
weight. They never use the word kadai, the Hindi word for
embroidery, instead refer to it as salme sitar eke kam ka
takna which means laying of the salma, sitara on the body
of the fabric.
Zardozi as a technique is understood to be
a distinctive style of stitching as it differs
from other traditions of embroidery like
kantha, kasuti, phulkari, etc. where
the movement of the threaded needle is
guided by a variety of stitches.
The weaving of Agra Durrie is mainly centred on the Agra
district of UP. With the growing demand for the product, the
production has been extended to the neighbouring areas,
namely, Etmadpur, Khandauli, Shamshabad, Fatehabad,
Jagner, Kheragarh, Sainya, Achanera, Akola, Bichpuri,
Fatehpur Sikri, Barauli Ahir, Bah, Pinahat and Jaitpur Kalan.
A durrie is a flat woven pileless rug having a rich variety of
designs and colours. It is essentially a thick cotton woven
fabric meant for spreading on the floor. It is a weft-faced
fabric on both its sides as warp is completely covered by the
weft. In its simplest form it is made in plain weave and in
simple stripes in different colours running from side to side
or broken into rectilinear sections or with simple patterns in
single colour. The main products of Agra Durrie are Chindi
Durrie, Cotton/Hemp/Jute Durrie and Woolen Durrie. Agra is
known for natural vegetable dyes. In the past, many colours
were used in a durrie which were produced with natural
dyes. Maddar, which grows almost everywhere, was the most
important colourant of vegetable origin. Its root provided the
whole range of pinks and reds. Apart from Maddar other wild
vegetables, was the most important element of dying process.
Other natural elements used to make Dyes are turmeric root
(light yellow), pomegranate skins (darker yellow), rhubarb
(dark red and copper red), grass or kusa (green) and kikar
tree leaves (brown). These natural dyes were usually prepared
by the weavers in their home. However, presently most of the
weavers prefer to use mainly two or three colours and the
dyes used are synthetic direct dyes.
Specimen of GI Certificate
AGRA DURRIE
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10The TC Times May - June 2013
The well known
Bhagalpur Silk of Bihar
has been registeredunder the Geographical
Indications (GI)
Act 1999 by the
Government of India.
The technical support
for registering the
product under the GI
Act has been extended
by Textiles Committee.
Bhagalpur Silk is the
fifth product from
Bihar to be registered
under the GI Act after
Madhubani Paintings; Applique- Khatwa Patch Work; Sujini Embroidery
Work; and Sikki Grass Work. A logo for this product has also been registered
under the act.
The district of Bhagalpur of Bihar has been famous for its cottage industries
since long. Tussar Silk, dyeing, glassware etc. were some of the main
industries of the district. Bhagalpur, which is more famous for Silk, has been
a well known product of the place from time immemorial. Bhagalpur known
as Champa in the days of yore, produced abundantly Tussar and Mulberry
categories of silk. The industry enjoyed a royal patronage and silk, the best
in the world, was exported to the countries bordering the Mediterranean Sea
under the protection of royal troops. Then, it used to be exchanged for gold. In
the international market, Bhagalpur is specially recognized for the production
of silk furnishing, both heavy and light textures. Tussar spun out of different
stages/ wastes like Jhuri, Danti, Katiya, Balkal etc. are regional names used
for manufacturing silk fabrics. The Mulberry silk yarns of varied range are
also used here. The use of heavy coarse Jhari Tussar, Hand Spun Jattam
to finest filament yarn are used to produce the varieties like dress materials,upholstery, scarf, stoles etc.
The silk weavers in the region are apt in blending the fine and coarser yarns
for producing quality silk fabrics. They are skilled to use cotton (fine to coarse),
Jute, Linen (flax), Viscose, wool, acrylic and polyester yarns in blending/ mixing
with silk yarns in producing silk blends and other varieties.
BHAGALPUR SILK GETS GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION TAG
The industry
enjoyed a royal
patronage and
silk, the best
in the world,
was exported to
the countries
bordering the
Mediterranean
Sea under the
protection of royal
troops.
Hindustan - April 30, 2013 Hindustan - April 30, 2013
Dainik Jagran - April 30, 2013
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11The TC Times May - June 2013
Farrukhabad in Uttar Pradesh is famous for the artistic and
intricate hand-block printing. In many cases, the printing
centres as well as its special methods and practices are
extinguished. Those that survived, on the other hand, appear
to have readily inducted modern innovations such as printing
tables, synthetic dyestuffs and new finishing processes into
their technique. Farrukhabad is a veritable treasure house of
traditional designs ranging from the classical butis (dots) to
the famous Tree of Life to modern print. The butis are restful
even though sparkling when tinted in solid colours. Mango,
paisely as it is known in the West, is made in a vast variety of
shapes, and used in bold, medium and in even fine designs.
The artisans of Farrukhabad use a distinct production
process for producing block printing. The process starts with
the procurement of raw material. Fabrics are most important
raw materials of the textile printing. The traditional fabrics of
printing were fine cotton and silk. The fabric used for printing
is collected from across the country. The artisans are using
cotton fabrics of different qualities, silk fabrics, viscose and
different dyes for performing their artistic skills. Earlier the
artisans used natural dyes derived from plants, animals and
minerals in the process of printing. Normally, all the regions
use primary colours like yellow, blue, red and the combination
colours of those like brown, green and orange.
The artisans of Farrukhabad use two different procedures
for printing i.e. (a) Printing through Block and (b) Printing
through Screen. The block printing is the oldest and the
simplest method of printing. Because of its artistic and
decorative value and the purity and richness of colour
produced by it, the method is still used in many countries
in the world. The blocks used in this method are made of
several layers of common timber which are cemented
together and the portions to be printed are carved or raised
in relief on a thick block of wood. Metallic blocks such as T
japs are used for a special work in a Batik printing. Designs
with fine lines which are too fine to be cut on a wooden blockare made by inserting short pieces of copper stripes and pins.
For obtaining an overall design of coloured dots, a block like
instrument containing 10 to 40 needles is used. The fabric
is stretched over the printing table and fastened with small
pins (in the case of saris the pallu is printed first then the
border). The printing starts form left to right. The colour is
evened out in the out in the tray with a wedge of wood and the
block dipped into the outline colour (usually black or a dark
colour). Colour in the form of a thickened paste is applied to
the raised parts of the block and the impression of the design
is obtained by stamping the block by hand with a wooden
mallet (or hammer) on the cloth to be printed. Since the block
has to be lifted and stamped on to the cloth repeatedly, its
size as well as weight should not be unduly excessive so that
it can be manipulated easily. Each fresh portion of the cloth
has to be printed by a separate application of the block and
the successive impressions have to be adjusted accurately to
the block and in very large patterns, each individual colour
may require more than one block. Thus in a design called
Dutch Bouquet which has 23 colours in it, 126 blocks are
used for printing the design.
These traditional textile products of the country are national
heritage and socio-culturally related to the stakeholders of the
products and also to the consumers. It is also contributing
immensely to the economic development of the artisans
associated in the process of production and marketing of
the products. The legal protection through GI registration
will provide much needed protection against infringement
and provide ownership rights as well. At the same time,
the protection will also make the consumers secure from
infringed products.
The block printing is the oldest and the
simplest method of printing. Because of
its artistic and decorative value and the
purity and richness of colour produced
by it, the method is still used in many
countries in the world.
FARRUKHABAD PRINTS
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12The TC Times May - June 2013
A review meeting of the Handloom Mark scheme was
convened by the Development Commissioner (Handlooms)
on 16th April 2013 at New Delhi. The meeting reviewed the
physical and financial performance of the Scheme during the11th Five Year Plan and also during the financial year 2012-
13. In the meeting, the Director (EP & QA) informed with
the help of statistics that the Scheme is performing well and
progressing as per the planned targets in terms of registration
and the label sales. The strategies to be adopted for the
promotion of the Scheme during the 12th Plan period was
also discussed and finalized. Some of the main activities to
be taken up during the 12th plan period are:
n Engaging professional advertising agencies for creating
publicity in an effective manner, as major part of thebudgetary provision is allotted for publicity measures. The
publicity campaign organized through these professional
agencies will comprise media plan for print and electronic
media at strategic locations such as railway stations, bus
stations, trains, buses, airports and for promotional events
like fashion shows, cultural events and other means of
publicity.
n Exploring the possibility of utilizing the Handloom Expos
l
l l
Dr. P. Nayak,
Member Secretary,
Textiles Committee,
Government of India, Ministry of Textiles,
P. Balu Road, Prabhadevi,
Mumbai 400 025.
Sub: Report on the Union Budget 2013.
Dear Sir,
I acknowledge the receipt of Textiles Committee Monthly Communication The TC Times
February March 2013 issue. The article on Report of Union Budget 2013 has aptly analysed
the attempts made by the Ministry to revitalise the textile sector and has also suggested
appropriate interventions to be made in order to meet the expectations.
This report is informative which will be shared with the students thereby updating their
understanding about our Textile Industry. I am thankful to you for forwarding a copy to me.
Looking forward to your support and co-operation in all future endeavours.
Thanking you,
Yours faithfully,
ANAND P. MODGEKAR
Head, Textile Chemistry Dept.
SIMMT, SASMIRA.
Mobile- 9869 210 958.
Review Meeting of Handloom Mark Schemeu 16th April, 2013
FEEDBACK
organized across the country under Market Incentive
Scheme as one of the major platform for creating publicity
of Handloom Mark Scheme. The State Handloom
Departments, Apex Societies, Weavers Service Centers,NHDC etc who are organising Handloom Expos under
Market Incentive Scheme will advise the participants to
display only handloom products duly fixing the handloom
mark labels and monitoring the use of labels on the
handloom products.
n The Handloom Mark Labels will be distributed at free of
cost to the organizers to enable the participants to affix
the labels on the handloom products and popularize the
Handloom Mark Scheme among the public. The Cluster
Development Executives of the handloom clusters will beasked to actively promote the Handloom Mark Scheme in
all their Handloom promotional activities and events.
n Linking the Handloom Mark Scheme with other Schemes of
the office of the Development Commissioner (Handlooms)
to encourage display of promotional material / signboards
at retail outlets, licensing system for bulk users, sticker /
fusing type labels etc.
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13The TC Times May - June 2013
A business meet on Confedera business model - a tool for
improving competitiveness factors in Home textile MSME
units was organized by Karur Textile manufacturers and
exporters association (KTMEA) at
the KTMEA Hall on 27th March
2013. The objective of the meet
was to create awareness on
the Confedera or consortium
business model for the textile
MSME units, that consolidatestheir capacities, functions,
processes and services into a
single requirement and enables
them to function like a single entity
without losing their individual
identity for gaining cost, differential and niche advantages.
It is felt that the present day business environment is not
conducive for the Micro, Small and Medium Enterprises/
MSME units to do business in isolation without a proper
support system. The unstable prices of raw material, power
shortage, non-availability of skilled man-power are some
of the main causes that make the manufacturing units
uncompetitive. Being small, they are not able to handle big
orders and hence big customers avoid them. The increasing
new compliance requirements from customers abroad also
create additional expenditure to these units. The lack of R &
D results in the MSME units adopting the Cut, Make & Trim
methodology, which doesnt fetch good margins. In order
that the MSMEs take advantage of the various competitive
factors like cost, size, compliance and value addition a
support system in the form of a Confedera or a consortium
would help in leveraging the power of federated cooperation
of MSME units in all areas of business functions provided,
they are willing to work together.
Through this confedera model,
the MSME units will be brought
under one advanced planning
and scheduling system of
order inflow for better capacity
utilisation. It will consolidate the
procurement of yarn, fabric, trims
& packaging material for gaining
bulk advantage on price. Increase
in productivity is achieved through
sustained training, improvement in workplace conditions and
application of Information Technology. Normal and high-
speed lanes are set in the production process for improved
price realisation. The confedera will also involve designers
from abroad to develop collections according to the season to
mobilise orders. This support system will also foster various
government schemes for their benefits in market development,
technology up-gradation, prototype development centre etc.
Textiles Committee extended technical support to the business
meet which was inaugurated by Shri. N. Rajasekaram,
Chairman of CII (Karur Chapter). Shri. D. Dhandapani,
Deputy Director, Textiles Committee and Shri. G. Venugopal,
Cluster Development Executive, Textiles Committee were the
two resource persons in the programme.
Business meet on Confedera business model
at Karuru 27th March, 2013
The unstable prices of raw
material, power shortage,
non-availability of skilled
man-power are some of
the main causes that make
the manufacturing units
uncompetitive.
Shri D. Dhandapani, Deputy Director during his special address. Sampath Kasirajan during his presentation
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Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the
ongoing activities of the Textiles Committee on 1st May 2013
at New Delhi. Senior Officers of the Textile Ministry and
Textiles Committee were present during the review meeting.
The major focus area of the review was the Government
Schemes implemented by Textiles Committee specially the
Handloom Mark Scheme.
HANDLOOM MARK SCHEME
As the main objective of the scheme is to create a brand
value and secure a niche market thereby ensuring a decent
earning to the weavers with an year-long and continuous
work flow, it was decided the continuance of the scheme in
the twelve plan also with the following:
(a) Exploring the possibility of carrying out bar-coding on the
handloom mark labels;
(b) Hiring of a professional agency for development of a
media plan for better execution of the publicity measures
and visibility;
(c) All Weaver Service Centres (WSC) to erect Hoardings of
handloom mark;
(d) Ensure mandatory use of the labels by the handloom
societies/individual handloom weavers participating in the
government sponsored exhibitions;
(e) The Indian Institute of Handloom Technology (IIHT) to
impart training on the handloom mark scheme. Textiles
Committee officers, wherever available, to participate in
the handloom mark training programme at IIHT;
(f) Handloom Export Promotion Council to arrange and
provide an exclusive stall to Textiles Committee free of
cost for publicity of the handloom mark scheme invariably
in all overseas exhibitions and Buyer Seller Meets (BSM)
in order to provide visibility to the foreign buyers;
(g) Pooling the funds available with other programmes for
publicity for synergy and effective utilization.
STAR RATING OF GINNING & PRESSING
FACTORIES
Textiles Committee has so far assessed 707 Ginning factories
and is planned to assess more than 200 units in the current
year under the scheme for star rating of Ginning and Pressing
factories. The Global Cotton Conference has conferred
Excellence Awards to Textiles Committee for promotingexcellence in cotton through Star Rating Scheme. In order
to bring vibrancy into the scheme, it was also decided to
(a) organize more awareness programmes to increase the
visibility so that high rated factories receive premium price
for their cotton; and (b) bring the scheme to the notice of
foreign buyers.
INTEGRATED SKILL DEVELOPMENT SCHEME
(ISDS)
Textiles Committee has been implementing the scheme by
imparting training on the Textiles Committee Certified Quality
Professionals. 4500 industry personnel were proposed to
be trained over the period of five years. The scheme is now in
its third year of operation. So far 1094 personnel have been
trained. Regarding ISDS Secretary (T) desired to focus more
on industry personnel and employability. Joint Secretary has
advised to restructure the scheme considering the objectives
to train more industry personnel.
Secretary (Textiles), Government of India reviewed the
activities of Textiles Committeeu
1st May, 2013
Textiles Committee has so far
assessed 707 Ginning factories
and is planned to assess more
than 200 units in the current year
under the scheme for star rating
of Ginning and Pressing factories.
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CLUSTER DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMME
Regarding the Cluster Development Programmes, it was
decided that (a) an implementation model in the line of
Shantipur Cluster of West Bengal to be developed by Textiles
Committee so that similar action could be initiated by otherclusters in the country; (b) the Dye House, Effluent Treatment
Plant (ETP) and Common Facility Centre (CFC) of the Bijnore
cluster of Rajasthan to be inaugurated for operation at the
earliest.
TEXTILES TESTING SERVICES
Laboratory Information Management
Systems (LIMS) has been established
by Textiles Committee at Mumbai
and is planned to extend to all the
17 laboratories within a period of 4
months. The LIMS is aimed at providing
quick service to the customers. The
Registration Evaluation and Assessment
of Chemicals (REACH), a new
compliance standard brought in by
EU has affected the exports for non-
availability of adequate test facilities in
India. Textiles Committee has developed
test methods for 5 phthalates and 5
banned amines under REACH besides
formaldehyde. Textiles Committee
is also planned to (a) increase the
customer base; and (b) to publicize the
laboratory services in all domestic and
international exhibitions.
EXPORT PROMOTION AND
QUALITY ASSURANCE SERVICES
Export Promotion and Quality Assurance (EP & QA) division of
Textiles Committee has been issuing 75% of the Generalised
System of Preferences (GSP) and Certificate of Origin (NonPreferential) for the textiles sector. EP & QA Division of
Textiles Committee has been accredited as per ISO 17020
standard by NABCB (National Accreditation Board for
Certification Bodies & Inspection Bodies) and providing its
third party inspection services to the industry including some
foreign countries. Classification of textiles and textile material
in Harmonization Coding System (HS Classification) is the
forte of the Textiles Committee and is the only organization
to providing such services in India. Textiles Committee has
been assigned development of HS lines for the technical
textiles (specialty fibers). In this regard, 272 subheadings in
respect of technical textiles have been developed and sub
group has been submitted in the Ministry of Textiles.
Secretary (Textiles) desired that parallel work should be
carried out along with DGFT, Ministry of Commerce on the
finalisation of HS lines developed by the Textiles Committee
for the specialty fibers.
TOTAL QUALITY MANAGEMENT
SERVICES
Textiles Committee has been providing
Total Quality Management services in
ISO 9000, ISO 14000, SA8000 and
other compliance related consultancy.
More than 650 units have been certifiedthrough the consultancy of the Textiles
Committee; the single largest in India.
Textiles Committee also extended
training to more than 17500 personnel
of the industry in understanding the
quality and infusing quality culture to
the Industry. The Ministry, Office of the
Textile Commissioner and Texprocil are
some of the clients for implementation
of ISO 9000 system management
standards.
MARKET RESEARCH SERVICES
Textiles Committee has developed a
Compendium of Non-Tariff Barriers
(NTBs) by countries and by products.
Action will be taken to revise this
compendium on the basis of the inputs
received from the Capacity Building Programmes which
are planned to be organized across the export centres in
the country. The first NTB capacity building programme
was conducted in Delhi and another 9 programmes will be
organized this year with the support of Export Promotion
Councils.
The report National Household Survey: Market for Textiles
and Clothing will be put on the web-portal for online
availability to the users in the near future. In order to restrict
the import of counterfeit products into the country, Textiles
Committee will submit the details of the products registered
under the Geographical Indications (GI) Act to the office of
the Director General of Foreign Trade (DGFT) and Customs.
The report National
Household Survey:
Market for Textiles
and Clothing will
be put on the web-portal for online
availability to the
users in the near
future.
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Textiles Committee in association
with Central Wool Development
Board (CWDB), Wool Research
Association (WRA) and Indian
Woollen Mills Federation (IWMF) have
organized a workshop on Quality and
Compliances of Wool at Hotel Fortune
Park Klassik, Ludhiana on 15th May
2013. The objective of the workshop
was to discuss and deliberate issues
on the quality of wool and woolen
products for export purposes and
also to create capacity of the industry
to understand compliance issues for
export. The workshop was attended
by stakeholders of the industry and
representatives of research and
development organisations of the wool
industry.
Ms Monika S. Garg, Jt. Secretaryin the Ministry of Textiles, Govt of
India chaired the workshop as the
Chief Guest. Ms Mridula Jain, Vice
Chairperson of the Shawl Club and Shri
Virendra Sharma, President, Oswal
Woollen Mills, Ludhiana attended the
workshop as the representatives of the industry. Besides,
Shri M. K. Bardhan, Director, Wool Research Association,
Shri Mahesh Sanil, Executive Director, Wool Industry Export
Promotion Council also attended the workshop and made
their presentations on issues relating to development of
research in wool testing and on the compliance requirements.
Shri Kartikay Dhanda, Director (Lab), Textiles Committee
presented the laboratory facilities available in India specially
focusing on laboratory services provided to industry in
Ludhiana. Dr P. Nayak, Secretary, Textiles Committee and
Shri K. K. Goyal, Executive Director,
CWDB coordinated the programme.
The Chief Guest, Ms. Monika S. Garg
in her interaction with the stakeholders,
opined that since the international
business is undergoing significant
transformation in terms of business
environment and methods, it is necessary
to remain updated on those issues to
remain competitive. She informed the
stakeholders that in view of the depressing
tariff levels, the major trading partners of
India are instituting non-tariff barriers
to restrict their markets. These barriers
many often create major impediments to
our exports than the tariff restrictions. It
is, therefore, necessary to be compliant
with the non-tariff measures to remain
competitive in the global market. In this
regard, she informed the House thatTextiles Committee is planning to organise
Capacity Building Programmes on Non-
Tariff Barriers in nine export centres of the
country including Ludhiana. The booklet
on Demystifying Non-Tariff Barriers
published by the Textiles Committee is a
useful source of information for the industry in this regard.
The Compendium of Non-Tariff Barriers compiled by the
Textiles Committee would be revised on the basis of the
feedback received from the industry and be made a useful
document for preparing ourselves to become compliant to
the real non-tariff measures.
After detailed deliberations, it was decided that there would be
regular interaction programme between Textiles Committee,
industry and other organizations to evolve strategies on
The objective of the
workshop was to
discuss and deliberate
issues on the quality
of wool and woolen
products for export
purposes and also
to create capacityof the industry
to understand
compliance issues for
export.
Workshop on Quality and Compliances for
Wool Exportu 15th May, 2013
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issues such as (i) upgrading laboratory facilities matching
with the requirements of the modern day; (ii) strengtheningthe Textiles Committee Laboratories at Ludhiana and Jaipur
to offer best services for wool testing; (iii) drawing a special
program by Textiles Committee along with WRA to train
man power under the Integrated Skill Development Scheme
(ISDS) to bridge the gap of technical man power availability
to the industry; (iv) Organizing industry capacity building
programmes on Non-Tariff Barriers (NTB) so as to help
the industry to comply with the emerging barriers to remain
competitive in the international market; (v) Creating a brand
for Indian Woollen products and to those who have developed
brands are to be supported from the Market Development
Assistance (MDA) and other such schemes already available
in Ministry of Commerce and Ministry of Textiles; and (vi)to enhance the trade facilitation issues, the industry and the
Government would work together with synergy.
The workshop was attended by more than 130 delegates
from the industry and from research fraternity. Ludhiana is
the largest production centre of wool and acrylic yarn in the
country with more than 11000 units, provides employment to
more than 2.5 lakhs with a total a turnover of Rs.15000 crores.
The industry representatives appreciated the init iatives taken
by Textiles Committee and sought similar capacity building
programs in the future.
Textiles Committee convened its 111th Management
Committee Meeting on 8Th May 2013 to discuss &
deliberate issues related to organization & trade
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COVER STORY
Development of Mandatory Standards
For Textiles And Clothing in India:Status, Procedure And Way-Forward
Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT):
A Global Perspective
TBTs have come to the fore in recent years due to increasing
globalization and the relative decline in traditional tariff
measures. Today, standards-related measures (standards,technical regulations, and conformity assessment procedures)
play a critical role in shaping the flow of international
trade. While tariffs still constitute an important source of
distortions and economic costs, the relative role of tariffs in
shaping international trade has declined due to large part to
successful rounds of multilateral tariff reductions in the WTO
and its predecessor, the General Agreement on Tariffs and
Trade (GATT 1947). With these declines in tariffs, the role
of non-tariff barriers in international trade has become more
prominent.
The WTO agreement on Technical Barriers to Trade clearly
recognizes that international standards can contribute in
improving efficiency of production and facilitating the conduct
of international trade. They serve as an important function
in facilitating international trade, including by enabling small
and medium-sized enterprises (SMEs) to obtain greater
access to foreign markets. They also enable governments to
pursue legitimate objectives such as protecting human healthand the environment and preventing deceptive practices.
Standards-related measures also play a vital role in enabling
greater competition by conveying information to producers
and consumers about the characteristics or performance
of components and end products they purchase from a
wide variety of suppliers. These measures also enable more
widespread access to technical innovations. Standards-related
measures can offer particularly pronounced benefits to SMEs
from this perspective. Uniform standards and product testing
procedures established under a common set of technical
requirements that producers can rely on in manufacturing
components and end products, can facilitate the diffusion of
technology and innovation, contribute to increasing buyer-
by Ms. Deepti Lahane
Ms. Deepti Lahane, MBA (Marketing and International Business)
Research Associate, Market Research Wing, Textiles Committee, Mumbai
(The views expressed by the author are purely personal and in no way reect the ofcial position of
Textiles Committee to which the author is presently afliated)
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19The TC Times May - June 2013
seller confidence, and assist SMEs to participate in global
supply chains. Conversely, outdated, overly burdensome,
discriminatory, or otherwise inappropriate standards relatedmeasures can reduce competition, stifle innovation, and
create unnecessary obstacles to trade. Even when standards-
related measures are used appropriately, firms particularly
SMEs can face significant challenges in accessing information
about, and complying with, diverse and evolving technical
requirements in major export markets. The following graph
depicts the ten most active members raising specific trade
concerns (STCs) in WTO TBT committee. As is clearly seen
European Union and The United States of America lead the
list (Refer Fig A).
200177
53 52 50 4939 38 31
EU USA Japan EU China Mexico S outh
Korea
Australia Argentina EU
150
100
50
0
150
FIG A: MEMBERS THAT MOST FREQUENTLY LAUNCH TBT STCS
Source: IFN Working Paper No.960, 2013: In the Shadow of the DSU; Addressing specic
trade concerns in the WTO SPS and TBT Committees, Henrik Horn, Petros C. Mavroidis
and Erik N. Wijkstrm, Research Institute of Industrial Economics, Sweden.
306
76 6945
87
38 59
27 26 25
EU USA BRAZIL Canada China India South
Korea
Australia Indoneisa Vietnam
0
50
100
150
200
250
300
350
FIG B: MEMBERS THAT MOST FREQUENTLY FACE TBT STCS
Source: IFN Working Paper No.960, 2013: In the Shadow of the DSU; Addressing specic
trade concerns in the WTO SPS and TBT Committees, Henrik Horn, Petros C. Mavroidis
and Erik N. Wijkstrm, Research Institute of Industrial Economics, Sweden.
MEASURES INITIATED FROM 1-4-2010 TO 31-3-2013
1Q2
Safeguard
2010 2011 2012 2013
Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1
10
100
Countervailing Antidumping
Technical Barriers To Trade Sanitary and Phytosanitary
Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx
MEASURES INITIATED FROM 1-4-2010 TO 31-3-2013
1
Q2
2010 2011 2012 2013
Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1 Q2 Q3 Q4 Q1
10
100
Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx
On the other hand shown in Fig B is the graph that depicts
the top ten countries that most frequently face specific trade
concerns in WTO TBT committee. Although European Union
dominates here as well but majority of eastern nations also
come into picture:
The following graph shows the trend of Non -tariff measures
adopted by WTO member countries:
In comparison to the WTO member countries, India has not
been able to develop technical regulations at the same pace
as depicted below:
The numbers of TBT notifications have consistently
increased during last five years, as also the modifications
done to the introduced notifications. It is clearly seen that the
trend has changed from tariff barriers to non-tariff barriers
in international trade. It is necessary for India to develop
certain stringent technical regulations in order to protect and
promote the T &C sector.
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20The TC Times May - June 2013
arising out of disposal of packaging material such as
recyclability.
n Marking and labeling requirements: labeling needs
to include ingredients, intended use and shelf life. For
example: CE marking
n Administrative provisions: inspection, testing, certification
and approval from competent authorities.
PRODUCT STANDARDS
n For products, standards that contain specifications are
the most common; they cover the requirements for a
material or product in a comprehensive manner. These
specifications provide a complete guidance for producing,
processing, selling, purchasing and using the product.
They may also include requirements for dimensions,
performance, packaging, labeling, methods of sampling
and test methods.
0
50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63
100000
200000
300000
400000
500000
600000
IMPORTVALUE
HS-CODE
700000
800000
900000 2008
2009
2010
2011
2012
Source: Calculations done on data reported by ITC, Geneva
Source: http://i-tip.wto.org/Forms/GraphView.aspx
0
500
1995 1996 1997 1998 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012
1000
1500
2000
2500
Notifications Addenda/Corrigenda
Need for developing standards:
a. To rationalize quality issues in textile trade
b. To tackle the consistent increase in import of T&C products
c. To improve the competitiveness of domestic producers in
international market
d. To address issues pertaining to environment, fair trade,
fulfillment of social objectives etc.
TECHNICAL REGULATIONS/STANDARDS ENCOMPASS THE
FOLLOWING IMPORTANT ASPECTS:
n Product characteristics: Dimensions, Design criteria,
Performance criteria, Materials used
n Process and production methods:when they affect the
safety and health requirements of the product
n Packaging: to ensure that the product arrives intact at
its destination and may also include environmental issues
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IDENTIFYING EXISTING INDIAN BIS
STANDARDS AND CLASSIFYING THE
STANDARDS:
The national standards forming
body in India is the BIS. There are
about 1135 voluntary standards
developed by BIS for the T&C
sector. Out of these are about
636 product related standards,
328 methods of test, 33 codes
of practice, 57 terminology,
11 dimensions and 70 in others. A detailed description is
available on the BIS website-http://www.bis.org.in/sf/pow/txd.
pdf
LINKING THESE STANDARDS TO 6 DIGIT HS CODE:
It was a tedious task to link the HS code at 6 digit to the
available standards by BIS. Not only the end user had to be
considered but also the fact that the existing standards by
BIS give a wide view of the situation but our aim is to arrive
at precise standards for crucial products. About 143 IS
standards have been linked to the HS product line.
STUDYING THE SPECIFICATIONS OF THE LINKED STANDARDS:
All the specifications of these 143 standards have been
thoroughly studied to improve/alter the same. The IS
standards are available both for product specification
standards, physical methods of test and chemical methods of
test. To prepare a comprehensive specification it is essential
to streamline the product specifications, physical methods of
test and chemical methods of test in to one precise standard.
At the same time keeping in mind that our own industry will
have to be ready to abide by these standards.
The specifications are further
classified into three categories:
a. Obligatory requirements-essential characteristics
needed to ensure the
usefulness of a product
b. Optional or recommendatory
requirements-which help to
improve the serviceability of
a product
c. Informative requirements-necessary to make the
consumer aware of the contents of the product
n International standards forming organizations issue new
product standards or revise older ones to keep pace
with market requirements and changing technologies.
With new technologies emerging in the textile industry,
new standards need to be in place and should be made
mandatory. In India, the surge in import of few products
over last few years has been exceptionally high; to counter
this surge in imports and to rationalize the quality issues
in textile trade we need to introduce product standards.
These standards would also contribute towards making
our domestic producers internationally competitive. The
following is a graphical representation of the import
figures of India from the world for T&C for last 5 years (in
USD 1000)
Analysis and classification of
BIS developed standards
STUDYING THE WORLD WIDE SCENARIO IN MANDATORY
TEXTILE STANDARDS:
Almost all the developed nations have some or the other
technical regulations in T&C products to restrict the amount
of imports and using Non-Tariff Barriers rather than tariffs
in order to do so. Majorly the mandatory standards exists in
the segments of baby clothes, technical textiles, products
with direct skin contact like apparels and home textiles like
curtains, bedspreads, textile wall fabric etc.
International standards
forming organizations
issue new product
standards or revise older
ones to keep pace with
market requirements and
changing technologies.
SR.NO. DESCRIPTION NO. OF
STANDARD
1 Product related standards 636
2 Methods of test specific standards 328
3 Codes of Practice 33
4 Terminology 57
5 Dimensions 11
6 Other 70
Total 1135
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S. NO HS CODE DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTS IMPORT VALUE 2012 INTO
INDIA IN 1000 USD
TOP EXPORTERS TO INDIA
1 500720 Other woven fabrics of silk (silk
content 85% or more)
69369 China, USA, Italy
2 500790 Other woven fabrics of silk or of silk
waste
3735 China, USA, Republic of
Korea
3 510129 Other degreased wool (not
carbonized; not carded or combed)
77014 Australia, New Zealand,
China
4 540210 High tenacity yarn of polyamide
filaments
83963 China, Germany, USA
5 540233 Textured yarn of polyester filaments 49907 Republic of Korea, China,
Indonesia
6 590320 Textile fabrics impregnated, coated,
covered with polyurethane
65401 China, Republic of Korea,
Italy
7 590390 Textile fabrics impregnated, coated,
covered with other plastics
140381 China, Republic of Korea,
China
8 590310 Textile fabrics impregnated, coated,
covered with polyvinyl chloride
115220 China, Chinese Taipei,
Turkey
9 550320 Polyester staple fibers, not processedfor spinning 42760 China, Republic of Korea,Chinese Taipei
10 540410 Synthetic monofilament of 67 decitex
or more
17421 China, Germany, USA
11 540269 Multiple or cabled yarn of polyester
filaments
9329 Republic of Korea, China,
Vietnam
12 560811 Made up fishing nets of man-made
textile materials
4401 China, Malaysia, Thailand
13 560750 Twine, cordage, rope and cables ofother synthetic fibers
4049 France, China, Thailand
14 591131 Textile fabrics and felts, weighing
less than 650g/m2
3764 China, France, UK
15 591140 Straining cloth of a kind used in oil
presses and the like
2867 France, USA, Germany
16 520851 Plain woven fabrics of cotton (cotton
85% or more, printed, not more than
100g/m2)
2606 China, Pakistan, Republic of
Korea
PRODUCT WISE SUGGESTION FOR MANDATORY STANDARDS:
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S. NO HS CODE DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTS IMPORT VALUE 2012 INTO
INDIA IN 1000 USD
TOP EXPORTERS TO INDIA
17 520833 Twill woven fabrics of cotton (cotton
85% or more, dyed, not more than200g/m2)
2590 China, Pakistan, Italy
18 520819 Other woven fabrics of cotton( cotton
85% or more, not more than 200g/
m2; unbleached)
1485 China, Singapore, Pakistan
19 590610 Adhesive tape of a width not
exceeding 20 cm
1426 Germany, China, Republic of
Korea
20 611710 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
veils, knitted or crocheted
1179 China, Italy, Austria
21 560900 Article of yarn, strip or the like ofartificial textile materials, rope
1047 China, Germany, UK
22 540500 Artificial monofilament of 67 decitex
or more
1007 UK, USA, Thailand
23 610711 Mens or boys underpants, briefs, of
cotton, knitted or crocheted
892 China, Sri Lanka, Thailand
24 621410 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
veils of silk or silk waste
887 Italy, France, Nepal
25 590800 Textile wicks; Incandescent gas
mantles
850 Germany, USA, China
26 560749 Twine, cordage, rope and cables of
polyethylene or polypropylene
704 China, Germany, South Africa
27 621430 Shawls, scarves, mufflers, mantillas,
veils of synthetic fibers
622 China, Spain, Germany
28 611593 Stockings, socks of synthetic fibers,
knitted or crocheted
617 China, Switzerland, Israel
29 610821 Womens or girls briefs, panties,
knitted or crocheted
572 Sri Lanka, China, Republic of
Korea
30 520821 Plain woven fabrics of cotton (cotton
85% or more, not more than 100g/
m2, bleached)
554 China, Singapore, Italy
31 580810 Braids in the piece 517 China, Hong Kong China,
Turkey
Source: ITC, Geneva and WITS database
Note: The rst seven products in the list above have been notied by the ministry for mandatory standard development. The specications of the
standards developed by Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) are available on their priced CD-ROM.
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S.NO PARENT ACT PROVISION
1 Textiles Committee Act, 1963 Textiles Committee Act; functions of the committee:
1*(c)- establish or adopt or recognize standard specifications for
textiles and packing materials used in the packing of textiles or textiles
machinery, for the purposes of export and for internal consumption
and affix suitable marks on such standardized varieties of textiles
and packing materials.
2 BIS Act, 1986 BIS act, Chapter IV; powers and functions of the bureau
10.(1) a- establish, publish and promote in such a manner as may be
prescribed the Indian Standard, in relation to any article or process;
10.(1) b- recognize as an Indian Standard, in such a manner as may
be prescribed, any standard established by any other institution in
India or elsewhere, in relation to any article or process
10.(1) (i)- undertake research for the formulation of Indian Standards
in the interests of consumers and manufacturers
14. If the central government after consulting the bureau, is of
the opinion that it is necessary or expedient so to do, in the public
interest, it may, by order published in the official gazette-
a. Notify any article or process of any scheduled industry which shall
conform to the Indian standard and;
b. Direct the use of the standard mark under a license as compulsory
on such article or process.
3 The Central Silk Board Act, 1948 The Central Silk Board (Amendment)act, 2006; Powers to make
regulations:
13A.2(ii) laying down of various standards relating to kinds or
varieties, production, testing, supply, distribution, trade and
commerce and export and import of silk worm seed under sub-
section (2 )of section 8B
Simultaneously developing a possible maneuver for introducing these standards:
Apart from trying to develop new standards, it is being explored how to evolve and introduce these standards. Since,
currently no mandatory standards exists in T&C sector, it is required that a suitable manner of introducing these
standards to the industry must be developed in a systematic and sustainable manner. The developed standards might
be introduced under the existing acts and orders pertaining to textiles. Given below, the existing provisions to introducethese standards:
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25The TC Times May - June 2013
Textiles Committee
MOT validates the list
through discussions withtrade & industry, TXC,
EPCs etc.
MOT validates it and a
second round of discussions
begin with trade & industry
opinions
On mutual consent
MOT may notify itself or
authorize TC, TXC, to notify
concerned authorities
MOT informs WTO of
the newly developed
regulations, WTO informs
all member countries
Implementation processtakes place through
Department of Customs
Identification of products
for which mandatory
standards have to be
developed
BIS develops the
standards and notifies
MOT
MOT may ask BIS to
develop certain mandatorystandards for textiles
THE FOLLOWING MANEUVERS ARE SUGGESTED:
MANEUVER-1
MANEUVER-2
Conclusion and way forward
The due diligence requirements for developing standards
have been carried on by Textiles Committee (TC). Bureau of
Indian Standards (BIS) has requisite expertise in developing
voluntary as well as mandatory standards for various products.
To develop mandatory standards and specifications for T&C
products, it is required that a joint committee must be made
among the two organisations to work closely on standard
development for specific T&C products. It is also necessary
to involve the industry and trade people in the process of
development of standards as they can validate with a better
required insight of the specifications in a standard and
also the crucial products for whom developing mandatory
standards is of utmost importance. These discussions would
also bring out the possible constraints that the industry might
face in order to comply with the mandatory standards. Once
the standard development process is over, the ministry can
further strengthen the approach by taking necessary actions
for implementing it in a systematic and sustainable manner.
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26The TC Times May - June 2013
Shri Anand Bhai Popat, Managing Director, Jalaram
Cotton & Proteins Ltd. Rajkot, Gujarat &General Secretary, Saurashtra Ginners Association
Shri Ashok Agrwal, Managing Director, Mulchand
Phulchand Krishi Udyog Pvt. Ltd. & Ex-President,
Cotton Ginning & Pressing Association, Jalna, Maharashtra
Cotton Trade & Industry should look into the overall set up of Ginning & Pressing factories and
not just the quality of cotton while procuring bales of the Ginners. High star rated units are
definitely well equipped in terms of improved technology and better work practice and thereby
capable of producing quality cotton. Therefore market should privilege star rated units and also
pay premium price to their products. There should be periodic training programme to Ginners
to improve their star rating and enhancing the bargaining capacity.
u
u
GINNERS SPEAK
Star rating is a unique system introduced by Textiles Committee through which the Ginners
could be able to know the existing status of their factories with regard to the level of infrastructure
such as Machinery, Civil structure and their work practices. Based upon the star status we can
find out the scope for further improvement and enhance their capacity to face the competitive
market with greater confidence.
Textiles Committee should continue the scheme of grading the G&P units in the country. At
the same time, there should be wide publicity about star rated Ginning & Pressing factories
among the Textiles Trade & Industry so that the Spinners and other stakeholders in the cotton
supply chain would look for star rated units. Besides, the high star rated units should be given more benefits such as
concessions in insurance premium, allocation of more export quota for cotton and also preference in reaping the policy
benefits. Government should introduce best ginners award among star rated units with a view to increase modernization
and ethical work practices. It is also necessary to modify the rating system periodically in accordance with introduction of
new technology.
STAR UNIT
STAR UNIT
T ee ex tt tiile ms mCo
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27The TC Times May - June 2013
Amit Cottons Pvt. Ltd.
Mahabubnagar,
Andhra Pradesh- 509 202
Lezend Cotton Corporation,
Andhra Pradesh- 506 001
Swathi Ginning Mills Pvt. Ltd.
Medak, Andhra Pradesh- 502 277
Aditya Cotton & Oil Agrotech Industries,Karimnagar, Andhra Pradesh- 505 122
Sri Kailasanadha Cotton Syndicate (P) Ltd.
Guntur, Andhra Pradesh- 522 007
Jalaram Cotton & Proteins Ltd,
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 050
Shiv Cotton Industries,
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 311
For detailed information about all Rated Ginning & Pressing factories please contact:
EP & QA Division, Textiles Committee, Mumbai. Tel. 91-22-66527600/603/604/610, 66527507 Email: [email protected], [email protected], [email protected]
T ee ex tt tiile ms mCo
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1
LIST OF 5 STAR RATED GINNING & PRESSING FACTORIES
Raghuvir Cotex Pvt. Ltd.
Gondal, Gujarat- 360 311
Giriraj Cotex Pvt. Ltd.
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 050
PCK Cotton Pvt. Ltd,
Dist. Jalgaon, Maharashtra
Jayshri Ginning & Spinning Pvt. Ltd.
Rajkot, Gujarat- 360 370
Rimtex Engineering Pvt. Ltd.
(Unit Cotton Ginning & Pressing),
Surendranagar, Gujarat
Mep Cotton Ltd.
Gujarat- 360 311
Tungabhadra Ginning & Pressing
Factory, Bellary, Karnataka
Loknayak Jayprakash Narayan Shetkari
Sahakari Soot Girni Ltd.
Nandurbar, Maharashtra
Gima Manufacturing Pvt. Ltd.
Maharashtra- 442 301
Shri Balaji Fibers,
Yavatmal, Maharashtra- 445 304
Shrigopal Rameshkumar Sales (P) Ltd.(Ginning & Pressing Factory), Nagpur,
Maharashtra
Classic Knits India (Pvt.) Ltd;
Dist. Dharwad, Karnataka- 580 004
Textiles Committee has launched an Assessment and Star Rating System for Ginning & Pressing Factories
leading to a Rating Certificate. Each factory is placed in any one of the 5 grades ranging from Single
Star to 5 Star. The rating methodology involves objective assessment of the quality of machinery, civil
structures and management practices.
THE BENEFITS OF THE STAR RATING FOR:
SPINNING MILLS
Easier selection of ginnery for sourcing cotton.
Undertake own ginning by choosing factories of desired rating.
Select ginneries for contamination-free cotton.
COTTON TRADERS & MERCHANTS
Can choose ginneries of modernized facility quality with culture.
Greater confidence to get the best returns on investment in cotton.
Maximize output in the ginning process.
Star Rating of Ginning & Pressing Factories
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1) AHMEDABADAnkur Building, 2ND Floor,Shanti Sadan Estate, Opp. DinbaiTower, Mirzapur Road, Lal-Darwaja,Ahmedabad- 380 001
GujaratTelefax- [email protected]
2) BENGALURUFKCCI, WTC Building, 1st Floor,Kempegowda Road,Bengaluru- 560 009KarnatakaTel- 080-22208010Telefax- 080-22261401E-mail- [email protected]
3) BHUBANESWAR Hastatanta Bhawan
Unit-IX, JanpathBhubaneswar- 751 022OdishaTelefax- 0674-2543723E-mail - [email protected]
4) CHENNAI
Old No.212, New No.130,R. K. Mutt Road, Mylapore,Chennai- 600 004TamilnaduTelefax- 044-24615901 /
24610887 / [email protected]
5) COIMBATORE
Raj Chambers, 978-A,Thadagam Road,Coimbatore 641 002TamilnaduTel-0422-2473094
0422-2478758Telefax- [email protected]
6) GUNTURSai Ram Complex, Door No-25-1-9,Near Mastan Darga, G. T. Road,
Guntur- 522 004Andhra Pradesh
Tel- 0863-2218951 [email protected]
7) GURGAON
Showroom No. 205, Apparel House,Institutional Area, Sector-44,Gurgaon- 122 003HaryanaTel- 0124-2572564
8) GUWAHATI
Quality Control Office Building,2nd Floor, Industrial Estate,
Bamunimaidan, Guwahati- 781 021 Assam
Tel- 0361-2653020
9) HYDERABADD. No.: 10-1-1200, 1st Floor,UNI Building, A. C. Guards,Masab Tank Road,Hyderabad 500 004,Andhra PradeshTelefax- [email protected]
10) ICHALKARANJIHall No.1, Ward No.10,Rajaram Stadium,Near Shivaji Putala,Ichalkaranji- 416 115Dist- KolhapurMaharashtraTel- [email protected]
11) INDORE
C-1/F, Vikas Towers,Indira Complex, Navlakha,Indore- 452 001Madhya PradeshTel- 0731-2401243Fax- [email protected]
12) JAIPUR
NGR-1, Nehru Place, Tonk Road,Jaipur - 302 015RajasthanTel- 0141-2743453, 5105234Fax PP- [email protected]
13) KANNUR
2nd Floor, Platinum Centre,Bank Road, Kannur - 670 001KeralaTel- 0497-2706390Fax- [email protected]
14) KANPURGround and First Floor,117/48, Near Bank of BarodaSarvodaya NagarKanpur- 208 005Uttar PradeshTel- 0512-2212548, 2240066Fax- [email protected]
15) KARUR
II Floor, K. V. R. Complex,21-J, 80 Feet Road,Karur- 639 002TamilnaduTel- 04324-238610Telefax- [email protected]
16) KOCHIOffice No. 52, 4th Floor,Marine Drive Commercial Complex,Shanmugam Road,Kochi- 682 031KeralaTel- 0484-2360814
17) KOLKATABlock- GN, Plot 38/3, Sector V,Salt Lake, Kolkata- 700 091West BengalTel- 033-23575155/ 23571008Telefax- [email protected]
18) LUDHIANA
48-B, Tagore Nagar, Civil Lines,Ludhiana- 141 001PunjabTel- 0161-2305635Telefax- [email protected]
19) MADURAI
11-B, Jawahar Road, Chockikulam,Madurai- 625 002TamilnaduTel- 0452-2535758Telefax- [email protected]
20) NAGPUR
Brindavan 1st Floor,744, West High Court Road,Dharampeth, Nagpur- 440 010MaharashtraLand Mark: Near Laxmi Bhawan Chowk,Besides State Bank of India.Telefax- [email protected]
21) NEW DELHI(EoK)39, Community Centre,East of KailashNew Delhi- 110 065Telefax- [email protected]
22) NEW DELHI(N)40, Community Centre, Phase I,Naraina Industrial Area,
New Delhi- 110 028 Tel- 011-65496570/ 25791380 Telefax- 011-25896150/3241 [email protected]
23) PANIPATSCO 32, First Floor, HUDA , Sector 11,Near R. P. Stone Clinic, Panipat- 132 103HaryanaTel- 0180-2668325Telefax- [email protected]
24) SALEM
S. K. Complex, 2nd Floor, 54/598,Trichy Main RoadGugai , Salem- 636 006TamilnaduTel- 0427-2467740E-mail- [email protected]
25) SOLAPUR162/11, Railway Lines,Solapur- 413 001MaharashtraTelefax- [email protected]
26) SRINAGARRaj Baugh, Opp. Radio Colony,Srinagar- 190 008, Jammu & Kashmir
27) SURATBlock No. 2(A), 2nd Floor, Resham Bhawan,Lal Darwaja, Surat- 395 003, GujaratTel- [email protected]
28) TIRUPURPlot No. 8, 9,Thiru Vika Nagar, 1st cross,College Road, Tirupur- 641 602TamilnaduTel- 0421-2201402/2237935Telefax- [email protected]
29) VARANASIC/o Eastern U. P. Exporters AssociationB-2, Gurukripa Colony,Nadesar, Varanasi- 221 002Uttar PradeshTel- [email protected]
Textiles Committee - Regional Offices
Printed & Published by:
The Secretary
Textiles Committee, Government of India, Ministry of Textiles
P Balu Road Prabhadevi Mumbai 400025