Summary

This is the MK7 version of my "Penguin" geared extruder series for Prusa i3clones.

See below for assembly guide

The advantage to this design over others, to my mind, is that it containsall of the features a printer should have:

• First and foremost: based around a good hotend. In this case, thevenerable RPW-Ultra, from Reifsnyder Precision Works ($85 +shipping, comes with several nozzles, send email toreifsnyderb@hotmail.com for purchase info). This design also workswith all older models of genuine, RPW-manufactured J-heads fromMKV through 10 (slot-mount for that one, like the Ultra). Experimentalsupport is provided for genuine E3D v6 hotends also.

• Geared extrusion to prevent skipping E steps at higher flow rates.• Integrated probe mount for Z end stop and auto bed leveling,

designed for LJ18A3-8-Z/BX or similar inductive or capacitive sensors,and BLTouch. The inductive probe is offset 9 mm to the right and 28mm behind the nozzle. The BLTouch is 17 mm to the right, 28 mmbehind. BLTouch support is experimental.

• Quick-release filament drive with adjustable tension.• A 5015 blower can be used for cooling the hotend's heat sink, for

those models where a fan is needed at all (such as the RPW-Ultra).

VanessaE

Penguin ExtruderMK7 for Prusa i3(using RPW, J-head,or E3D)

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updated 2. 12. 2019 | published 29. 11. 2019

3D M

ODEL

ONLY

• Adjustable motor position to control gear lash and to compensate forwear.

• Off-the-shelf hardware to put it all together.• Uses normal 5-mm-bore hobbed drive gears, so you can buy precision

engineered parts instead of hobbing bolts by hand.• Fits standard Prusa i3 X carriages with 24 or 30 mm hole spacing.

I first designed my original MK1 extruder as an upgrade over the low-quality ones that a lot of Prusa i3 clones come with, which included myown bot. Five revisions later, I guess one can say the design has evolvedsomewhat. :-)

Note: The RPW-Ultra was previously known as J-head 12 before they werere-branded; I call it by its current name in this project, but the two namesare interchangeable (for genuine products, of course).

You can see the MK7 in action here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9FhuV9Y5Cg4

Detailed photo of the end result from that video: https://i.imgur.com/a2zq7Ir.jpg

That was printed with my low-quality, high-speed draft profile, purely as atest of continuous flow rate, with a 0.4 mm nozzle on the hotend. Thatprofile has a variable speed of 200-300 mm/s in the fastest sections, withretractions at 100 mm/s, 0.32 mm layer height, 0.5-0.65 mm line width.

Hobbed drive gear details:

To support multiple types of hobbed drive gears, this extruder usesreplaceable gear "cartridges", which are cut both to position the driveassembly so that the hobbed gear's teeth overlap the filament pathproperly (by about 0.1 mm, assuming a straight piece of 1.70-1.75 mmfilament centered in the filament path), and to avoid having too muchclearance around the hobbed gear and pressure bearing.

As each gear is different, each requires a cartridge cut to fit it. I'veincluded cartridges for standard MK7, standard MK8 (should also fit the"HobbGoblin"), plain 11 mm OD ("26 tooth" and "36 tooth"), and plain 12mm OD ("40 tooth") gears. Most other gears should be easy toaccommodate, by starting from the "uncut" cartridge in the .blend workfile (so long as the cartridge can be cut to allow the gear to be insertedfrom the front without requiring excessive clearance around the hobbedportion). There's enough space to fit gears up to roughly 13 mm max ODand 14 mm long, maybe a bit more.

This also means that if you need or want to change to a different gear, youcan simply print and install the proper cartridge instead of re-printing the

entire extruder, and perhaps change the idler arm's pressure bearing, ifappropriate.

This design is sorta compatible with Penguin MK3 through MK6 gearcartridges, using the hole(s) in the back end of the cartridge, but the MK7cartridges included in this Project are a bit better then the previous ones --using the old ones is not recommended.

Since the filament path is fully-guarded above and below the hobbed gear,and has been kept as straight as possible all the way into the hotend, thisextruder can print in TPU and other flexible filamenets, as well as the usualPLA, PETG, ABS, nylon, etc.

Other important stuff:

The printed gears have a ratio of 47:9 (5.222:1), but the effective diameterof your hobbed gear will of course affect the final ratio.

This extruder is designed for genuine RPW-Ultra/J-head 12 and older J-headhotends from MKV through 10, and genuine E3D v6 hotends. It has notbeen tested with clones of either brand.

Notes:

The Blender file contains a LOT more than just the extruder - I had tomodel most of a Prusa i3 MK1 printer to make sure everything would fitand actually work. See the credits section, below. My bot came with 410mm Y rods, which is reflected in the Blender file, but this design shouldwork on older printers with shorter rods (the original i3 had 330-335 mm Yrods).

You can find the MK1 through MK6 models in the files section. Don'texport/print from them - they're just here for reference and study.

While I haven't designed for it, it should be trivial to adapt this extruder tofit 3 mm filament. Just cut a new gear cartridge to fit, and drill a biggerhole in the E3D cold end top spacer, if using that hotend.

This extruder got its name from the colors I eventually ended up using inone of the early revisions of the MK6 design, i.e. mostly black or white,plus orange for one half of the filament release. So, it kinda bore a vagueresemblance to the bird, if you squint at it just right. Plus, I'm also a strongsupporter of open source software, especially on Linux. Since that OS hasTux the Penguin as its mascot, the name just seems to fit.

Print Settings/Notes

These parts are designed with a layer height of 0.2 mm in mind. Someparts need supports, as described below.

The support object for the idler arm has a 0.3 mm gap between it and thearm (assumes PETG, with Slic3r doing the slicing). You could "split" it offand replace it with your slicer's own supports, if they can do the job, but Idon't think that'll be any benefit here.

The frame has custom supports, with 0.3-0.4 mm gaps depending onwhich section you're looking at. There are alignment marks that form acrosshairs when the two pieces are positioned properly.

The layer cooler bracket for J-head MKV-10 needs support material enabled(too tricky to roll my own for that one). Use 30° overhang threshold(relative to horizontal). I recommend adding mouse ears to the threepoints where it touches the plate.

The blower nozzles have "mouse ears" attached.

The other parts don't need supports.

I'd normally suggest printing this in ABS for the sake of low mass, but thisdesign is already pretty light as it is, and besides, everyone knows ABSsucks donke... AHEM... to, um... print with, so....

If you print almost everything in PETG with 2 mm shells, using 40%triangles infill, and print the blower nozzle in ABS using the lightestsettings that still produce a usable part (since it needs the heat resistanceand won't be under any mechanical load), this extruder clocks in at just110 grams.

Of course, you can use other plastics like nylon or polycarbonate if youwant, just as long as they can tolerate whatever heat they'll be exposed toin your most extreme printing situations, without risk of warping/deforming. PLA is not recommended, unless that's all you ever print with,and you don't use an enclosure.

Mass will vary with infill amount, shell thickness, the specific filaments youuse, and various other print settings. The above assumes you'll be usingan RPW Ultra or J-head 11, with a MK8 hobbed gear, and counting only theprinted parts (since I have no control over how heavy your motor, sensor,screws/nuts, and fans are :-P ).

Post Printing

There are bridges covering some holes in the frame, idler arm, cold endclamp, and J-head MKV-10 fan bracket, to eliminate the need for detailedsupports. Clear them out using suitable drills and/or your X-Acto knife.

How I designed this

Six parts Blender, one part frustration, eight parts pizza, three parts sugar-free drink mix, and a dash of GIMP (for the textures used in the fancy-schmancy rendering).

Changelog/updates

2019-11-29: Reworked the "daconcepts" thing to make it more readable(some bits were too small and didn't slice too well).

2019-11-27: Added support for E3D (v6, anyway). Experimental; I have noway to actually test this since I use an RPW Ultra.

2019-11-26: Added my website address to the back of the extruder, as asort of "branding"... just because I could and there was room for it. :-)

2019-11-25: Added the missing "Penguin MK7" logo to the top of theframe. Also, since the extruder is mounted on a printer in the workfile foraccuracy-in-modeling purposes, just to satisfy my OCD, I rebuilt the frame,basing it on the version of what my bot uses (mainly this just amounted tore-aligning everyhting to high precision, and has no effect on theextruder).

2019-11-23: Trimmed some excess from the frame, and added support forBLTouch.

Changes since the MK6:

• Rearranged everything yet again :-) -- returned to a "horizontal"layout (the tall design of the MK6 had trouble at the top of the i3'sprint volume if used inside an Ikea LACK table enclosure).

• Shrunk the printed gears significantly.• Integrated inductive sensor mount into the frame, which now puts it

right behind (and slightly to the right of) the hotend.• Explicitly designed the frame to also use a 5015 blower for the cold

end heat sink (no more axial fans), if one is needed at all.• Got rid of the "surround" layer cooler duct/shroud and long air path,

went back to a minimalist "nozzle" design, with the blower mountedright where it's needed.

• Redesigned the gear cartridges - straighter, narrower filament path,better inlet, closer tolerances around the pressure bearing.

• Now you just push the filament basically straight into the cartridge,without that annoying upper loop or gears getting in the way, furtherreducing the effective height of the assembly.

• Temporarily dropped support for BLTouch -- this can be re-added later.• Overall lower mass, and fewer screws/nuts/etc. needed to assemble

it.

Changes From MK5 to MK6:

• Totally re-arranged everything again, :-) going back to a more verticalarrangement, and otherwise compacted the design even more, toabout the size of the original MK1, reducing the mass by about 15gover the MK5.

• Went back to using one layer fan, but with a symmetric dual-nozzleoutlet.

• Made the sensor mount optional again.• Integrated the X bearing mounts into the frame, eliminating the need

for a separate X carriage.

Changes from MK4 to MK5:

• Totally rearranged everything ;-) making the design overall morecompact (though it may not look like it at first).

• Extra-thick frame base, to make the whole thing as rigid as possible.• Blower nozzles are now to the sides of the hotend, making for much

better visibility• The cold end fan is now behind the hotend, blowing directly on it

(intake zone points up to avoid drawing in warm air from near theheated bed).

• The inductive sensor now sits behind the fans and has two mountingoptions. One is farther from the hotend than before, for most models,but one is rather closer to the hotend. If your sensor is short enoughor you have to move the sensor down far enough (e.g. to match anespecially long hotend), you can use the closer mount.

• The sensor mounts are now integrated with the frame.• Re-modeled the gears completely from scratch (though I kept the look

of the larger gear)• Got rid of the wide mount holes; only 24, 30, 31, and 37 mm hole

spacing is supported now (which is about the same in practiceanyway, and should cover 99% of i3 X carriages).

• Far fewer screws and nuts needed to put it all together.• This design keeps the entire 200 x 200 x 200 mm print volume

available, even with longer hotends (most hotends are short enoughto allow about 200 x 200 x 210 mm).

Changes from MK3 to MK4:

• The universal filament path didn't work too well in practice - it beingso wide made it prone to jams. So I've gone back to a normal filamentpath.

• A bit thicker and heavier-duty in places. It ain't MK1-mass anymore. :-P

• MUCH stronger, more reliable grip on the filament.• Should work fine with flexible filaments now (I haven't tried).• The upper filament guide has been enlarged and replaced with a

loop.• The sensor mount is now an optional part that you print and attach to

the frame, rather than having separate versions of the frame withand without it.

• Minor changes here and there to improve the printed quality of theframe.

• Added a support "ear" to the frame's cold end fan mount, I kepthaving problems with it lifting when I was tinkering with this designand the last few revisions of the MK3 design.

• Moved the sensor mount a few millimeters further to the right, toincrease the clearance around the large Wade gear (particularlyimportant if you're using a MK8 or some other hobbed gear with asmall effective diameter).

• Nicer contours on the front of the large gear :-)

Changes from MK2 to MK3:

• Lighter-weight "open-frame" design, with a mass similar to my MK1.• Narrower design, the nozzle now reaches beyond both edges of the

bed easily.• More generous filament path and gear clearance to allow for many

common hobbed gears up to 13 mm diameter and/or 13 mm length.• 5 mm LED mounts instead of 3 mm.• Better placement of inductive sensor - easier to install and adjust• Motor now moves vertically for adjustment.• New, slimmer printed gears.• The idler pressure bearing is now held from both sides, so the mount

area can't bend sideways.• A version of the frame is included that lacks the sensor mount.• Should fit any arbitrary X carriage with hole spacing from 24 to 31

mm

Changes from MK1 to MK2:

• The motor position is now adjustable.

• The tension spring has a much larger pressure range - from 0 tobasically "insane".

• The idler bearing now exerts force exactly square/perpendicular tothe filament path and the drive shaft, even * at extreme tension.

• The airflow from the cold-end fan is now better targeted at the coldend.

• The blower shroud should now have a much lower-resistance air path.• Tie-down loops/holes have been added for securing/bundling up your

wires/cables.• Where appropriate, downward-facing holes are beveled to help

compensate for excessive first-layer squish or elephant's foot.• A little inset "corner" has been added to some of the bearing mounts

to give your slicer a good place to put the perimeter seams (for betterdiameter accuracy)

• An initially unrealized side effect of moving the motor forward is thatthere should no longer be any interference with the printer frame'stop corner braces, so you get slightly more print volume.

• The blower shroud has a mount on the inlet as well, to keep the faninserted properly, and to prevent the inlet end sagging if it shouldoverheat.

• Fits X carriages with 24 or 31 mm hole spacing.

Credits

• The RPW-Ultra model file was provided by Reifsnyder Precision Works(with some details added by me).

• The E3D model came from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:341689(1.75 mm direct-feed version, with modifications by me).

• The nozzle used for both RPW and E3D hotends was drawn by me,referencing E3D's official mechanical drawing from https://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=File:DRAWING-V6-175-NOZZLE.png (1.75mm version with 0.4 mm orifice, with a couple of guesses at minordetails).

• The gears' teeth profiles were generated by http://hessmer.org/gears/InvoluteSpurGearBuilder.html and extruded in Blender. The helicaltwist info came from http://www.otvinta.com/instantgear.html .

• I used SimScale to help tune-up the RPW-Ultra blower shroud. Thesimulation project for it can be found here: https://www.simscale.com/projects/VanessaE/fan_shroud_test/

• The Penguin logo was hand-drawn using https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:King_Penguin_(11280288994).jpg asa guide.

• The cogged motor/belt pulleys seen in the Blender workfile camefrom https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2458937 .

• The leadscrew nuts therein came from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1903200 and the leadscrews they're on were derived fromthem.

• The Plexiglas parts of the printer model in the workfile are from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:39889 (extruded to 6mm thick inBlender).

• The printed Y and Z corners therein are from https://github.com/josefprusa/Prusa3-vanilla/tree/master/distribution

• The 5-to-8 mm leadscrew couplers therein came from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:602481 .

• The BLTouch model came from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1229934 (retracted model; modified by me to add a marker for theprobe's extended position).

• The two fan models used in the Blender workfile came fromThingiverse, but I don't remember whose models they are.

3D Printers > 3D Printers - Upgrades

Vitamins

Screws 1, M3 x 6 - 7 mm if using cap-head screws, or 6 - 8 mm for button-head, pan-head, etc. 4, M3 x 6 - 10 mm 2, M3 x 8 mm 1, M3 x 12 mm pan-head or button-head 3, M3 x 20 - 25 mm (one should be hex or square-head if possible) 2, M3 x 25 - 30 mm

1, M4 x 4 - 6 mm 3, M4 x 25 mm, or 1, M4 20 - 25 mm and 2, M4 x 30 -35mm. [*] 1, M4 x 28 - 33 mm

1, M5 x 40 to 45 mm hex-head bolt

1, 3-3.5 mm diameter by 15 or so mm "wood screw"

Nuts 7, M3 2, M3 nylock 4-6, M4 (4 for RPW 11 and Ultra, 6 if using J-headMKV-10!) 1, M5 nylock

Other 3, 623ZZ bearings, or one will be 623VV if your hobbed gear callsfor one. 2, 625ZZ bearings

2, M3-sized flat washers 4, M3-sized "star" lock washers (or flat washers ifthat's all you have)

2, M5-sized flat washers a suitably-stiff idler tension spring, 8 mm or sodiameter, about 20 mm long.

Recommended kapton tape ceramic wool insulation (such as https://www.ebay.com/itm/113535847883 or similar)

[*] If using an E3D, two of these need to be M4 x 30-35 mm.

Assembly

1. Remove all supports, and use your hobby knife and suitable drills toclear-out the bridging over some of the holes, as needed.

2. Gear up! Stat building the drive assembly: ◦ Grind or file a flat onto an M5 x 40-45 mm hex-head bolt, about

1.5 mm deep, running from about 15 to 22 mm from the bottomface of the hex head. If you're upgrading from a Penguin MK4 orlater, you can re-use your already-prepped bolt.

◦ Slide the bolt into the large Wade gear, from the front (ofcourse), but don't seat it yet.

◦ Add an M5 washer (assuming it's about 1 mm thick).◦ Add an M5 nut and thread it part-way, but don't tighten it yet.◦ Add a few drops of Krazy Glue under the head of the bolt, seat

the bolt into the large gear, and quickly tighten the nut down.Torque it down decently, to fully seat the bolt and hold it squareto the gear.

◦ Set this partial assembly aside and let the glue cure. We'll finishit later.

3. Get nuts! Populate the various nut traps in the frame. I stronglyrecommend adding a drop of Krazy Glue to each as you press themin, as some may be loose.

◦ Press two M3 nuts into the recesses in back side of the hotendmount.

◦ Press two M3 nuts into the recesses on the front surface of theframe's backplane, using whichever pair of holes is appropriate-- the lower set is for RPW Ultra and J-head 11, the upper set isfor J-head MKV-10.

◦ Press one M3 nut (nylock if possible) into the recess on the backside of the frame (the rounded part under/behind the releasearm).

◦ If you'll be using a layer fan, press M4 nuts into the traps on theright end of the frame (one is on top, one in back).

◦ If you'll be using a cold-end/heat sink fan, press M4 nuts intotheir traps in the left end of the frame.

4. Build the idler arm: Press two 623ZZ bearings into the shoulder, thenuse an M3 x 12 mm pan- or button-head screw and nylock nut tosecure another bearing into the pressure end. Tighten the screw well,crushing the plastic inward a bit, until the bearing can no longer spinat all, then back the screw off just enough to allow the bearing to spineasily. Which kind of bearing this third one should be depends on thehob gear you'll be using: for MK7, MK8, and similar gears, use a

623ZZ. For plain 11 or 12 mm gears, use a 623VV.

5. Finish the drive assembly. By now, the glue you put under the head ofthe bolt has cured.

◦ Remove the M5 nut, keeping the washer in place.◦ Add another M5 washer to the bolt.◦ Add one 625ZZ bearing.◦ Wrap a turn of aluminum tape or a trimming from a soda or beer

can partly around the area where you made the flat, but don'tcover the flat. You're creating a shim, and it'll take about onesquare centimeter of aluminum.

◦ Put your hobbed gear on, with the working part of the teethoriented toward the large gear. Be careful pushing it on, so as tokeep the aluminum flat and even under it.

◦ Align the hobbed gear's grub screw with the flat on the bolt, andtighten it just enough to keep it aligned.

◦ Use a 2 mm drill to clear-out the gear cartridge's filament path.Be conservative! You want JUST enough clearance to get a pieceof filament in, even if it's difficult to move through.

◦ Slide the drive assembly into the cartridge.◦ Add another 625ZZ bearing, and put the M5 nut back on, justfinger-tight this time (the drive assembly should turn easily,perhaps with some resistance)

◦ add the aforementioned piece of filament into the path holes inthe cartridge, and align the hob gear with it, as needed.

◦ Make sure the hobbed gear's grub screw is still aligned with theflat, and torque it down.

◦ Remove the M5 nut and return it to your stock, you're done withit.

◦ Remove the filament, drive assembly, and rear 625ZZ bearingfrom the cartridge (unless it's stuck in there well and won't fallout).

◦ Add an M5 nylock nut to the bolt and thread it down so thatwhen the drive assembly is installed in the cartridge, the nut willbe just far enough in to barely touch the back bearing. This nut'spurpose is to provide a backing for that bearing, so that the end/outer M5 nut that you'll add later won't crush the bearinginward.

◦ Set the drive assembly and bearing aside.

6. Insert M3 nuts into the two traps in the back end of the gearcartridge. I suggest adding a drop of Krazy Glue at least to the backone, after they're in and seated.

7. Insert the cartridge into the frame and secure it with M3 x 8 mmscrews.

8. Use a 2 mm drill to fully clean-up the filament path now. Use a pieceof filament to check your work - it should slide easily through the

entire filament path, without excessive side-to-side movement aroundwhere the hobbed gear will be. We waited until now so that you'd beable to use the frame as a square reference while you're working.

9. Using four M3 x 6-10 screws, attach your extruder motor. If you have

appropriately-sized "star" style lock washers, it might be a good ideato use them here. Leave the screws loose. Make sure you orient the

motor's connector properly.

10. Wrap one or two turns of electrical tape or similar around yourhotend's slot mount. If possible, add some ceramic wool and kaptontape around the hot end (this isn't so much to insulate the hot end forits own sake, as it is to protect the layer fan shroud from its heat), ora suitable silicone sock. If you're using a RPW-Ultra, make sure thecold end mount is the standard slot mount, and that it is threaded allthe way down. On that model, there will be a short piece of PTFE tubesticking out of the cold end. Press it all the way in (only a centimeteror so), and hold, while you use your hobby knife to trim it flush withthe top of the cold end.

11. Place the hotend onto its mount in the frame. For J-head MKV-10 andE3D hotends, orient the hotend such that its heater cartridge istoward the left. For J-head 11 and RPW Ultra, put the heater towardthe rear. If using an E3D, there is a cold-end top spacer you'll need toadd also (it'll end up being sandwiched between the cold end and the

gear cartridge).

12. Secure the hotend via the appropriate cold-end clamp using two M3 x20-25 mm screws.

13. If you'll be using a Z probe, install it now. If you're using an inductivesensor, there's a "filler cap" you'll want to use to cover the BLTouchmount recess. Also note that there is probably not enough room to fitthe lock washers, but you don't need them here. Position the probe sothat its tip is about 2 mm above the tip of the hotend nozzle. If you'reusing a BLTouch, you don't need that cap, but you may need one ofthe two shims, depending on whether you have a J-head MKV-10 or11 (RPW Ultra doesn't need one). E3D uses the same shim as the J-

head 11.

14. Add a flat washer to an M3 x 20-25 mm screw, put that through theshoulder of the idler arm, add another flat washer, and mount thearm into its place below the release arm, via the nylock nut youpressed into the back of the frame. It's a good idea to use a hex orsquare-head screw here, so that you can easily grip it with needle-nose pliers to tighten it should it work loose in the future.

15. Add a short M4 cap-head screw with something vaguely similar to anAllen, square, or Torx drive socket, to one end of your idler tensionspring, and snap them into place between the bump on the idler armand the recess in the frame opposite it. Retrieve the spring and screwfrom the pile of dust bunnies under your desk, and try again. ;-)

16. Drive a 3.5 x 15-20 mm "wood" screw into the hole on the right sideof the frame, just enough to poke through into the drive area. Ifyou're going to use a "reverse bowden" guide tube, now is a goodtime to install the PC4-M6 fitting that you'll need for it, into the loopat the top edge of the motor mount (there's no fitting pictured here,

as I don't use one).

17. Use a suitable drill to clean up the small gear's axle hole, ifnecessary, add an M3 nut to the nut trap on the bottom, and thread-in 6-8 mm pan- or button-head or 6-7 mm cap-head screw. Press thegear onto the motor shaft, aligning the screw with the flat on theshaft, but do not tighten it yet.

18. Push the motor to the left to move it out of the way, and install thelarge gear/drive assembly. Add that second 625ZZ bearing to theback of the cartridge, engaging the drive assembly bolt, seat it, andsecure the drive assembly with an M5 nylock nut. Be sure the nut istight, but not so tight the drive assembly can't turn easily.

19. Push the motor back into place, causing the two wade gears to mesh.Adjust the position of the small gear until it's properly-aligned andsquare with the large gear.

20. While holding the motor to keep the two gears pressed together,tighten its mounting screws. This is the point where you'll beminimizing gear lash, which is that bit of "slop" you get when turningone gear doesn't instantly start to turn the other. Note that there aresmall holes around the periphery of the large gear, to let you get tothe two screws behind it, though they're not shown in the photos, as Iwas using a prototype while initially composing this project.

21. Making sure the small gear is still aligned and square to the largegear, align its screw with the flat on the motor shaft and tighten.

22. If you'll be using a fan on the cold end's heat sink, install it now using

a pair of M4 mm screws. If using an E3D, there are two spacers you'll

need to add to the screws, to position the fan downward a bit.

23. If you'll be using a layer/part cooler fan, place the blower nozzle overthe end of the fan and install the pair, using one M4 x 30 mm screw inthe front-most mount, and one M4 x 25 mm screw in the back mount.The nozzle pictured here is a prototype, slightly different from the

"production" version.

You can now drive the idler tension screw in a bit to set it where you wantit, and attach the extruder to your X carriage with two M3 x 25-30 mmscrews. It is highly advisable to use a pair of wide washers under theheads, if only to spread the screws' force across as much plastic aspossible (washers meant for #6-32 or M4 screws may be useful for this).

It is also a very good idea to put some kind of tacky material (a piece of alatex exam glove, a thin coating of hot glue, a layer of double-sided scotchtape, etc), between the carriage and the extruder so that you don't haveto torque the crap out of the screws to keep the extruder from being ableto rock back and forth.

Model Files (.stl, .3mf, .obj, .amf) DOWNLOAD ALL FILES

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pe-mk7-cold-end-clamp-e3d.stl

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pe-mk7-part-blower-nozzle-rpw-ultra.stl

pe-mk7-part-blower-nozzle-j-head-11-e3d.stl

pe-mk7-part-blower-nozzle-j-head-mkv-10.stl

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pe-mk7-bltouch-shim-for-j-head-mkv-10.stl

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pe-mk7-cold-end-top-spacer-for-e3d.stl

pe-mk7-endstop-holder.stl

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92.0 MBupdated 29. 11. 2019

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33.5 MBupdated 29. 11. 2019

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24.4 MBupdated 29. 11. 2019

pe-mk7-8mm-wrench-just-in-case-.stl

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