WWB Magazine

—FASHIONING THE FUTUREThe feasibility of a UKmanufacturing revival—

—FAST FORWARDThe short-order brands not to miss—

—THINKING BIGPaul’s Boutique celebrates its 10th anniversary—

—RETAIL SOLUTIONSExperts reveal their top tips for in-store success—

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012—ISSUE 221

WOMENSWEARBUYERwwb-online.co.uk

£6.95

CONTENTS—

REGULARS

5EDITORS COMMENT

—6

NEWS—10

BACKSTAGEThe other side of womenswear

—12

TALKING POINT—48

RETAIL FORUMThe latest news from the industry

—54

THE FINAL WORDWhat was the naughtiest thing you

did as a child? —

FRONT COVERDARLING

—

FASHION

16STYLE FILE

—19

10 OF THE BESTLittle black dresses

—20

RING-A-DING The best cocktail rings to get

in-store now—22

FASHION RADAR—34

RAPID RESPONSEThe short-order collections

available now —40

MODEL BEHAVIOURThe key trends from theinternational catwalks

—42

THE EXHIBITION @ LFWHighlights from the static show

—

FEATURES

14Q&A

With Denham’s Paul Drew—24

GLOBAL GATHERINGPaul’s Boutique is celebrating its

10th anniversary —27

MAKING IN THE UK – A VIABLE OPTION? Findings from the recent ASBCI conference

—31

WORD ON THE STREETWWB chats to the organisers behind

trade show Flip—32

THE SHORT ORDER DEBATERetailers give their verdict on fast fashion

—44

TALKING SHOPExperts reveal their top tips

—

03WOMENSWEAR BUYER—OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012

General Enquiries 01392 876390 |General Enquiries 01392 876390 Customer Service 0800 294 3373 |

JosephRibkoff.com

Of�cial sponsor of| Customer Service 0800 294 3373

JosephRibkoff.com

Of�cial sponsor of

WWB221 Main Document 17/10/2012 12:14


COMMENT—

THERE MAY BE AN UPSURGE INTHE APPEAL OF ALL THINGSBRITISH, BUT UNFORTUNATELY, WE ARE STILL SOME WAY OFFFROM A PROPER REVIVAL OF “MADE IN BRITAIN”. —

The viability of bringing back UKmanufacturing to its former glory was the topicof a recent conference held by the Association ofSuppliers to the British Clothing Industry(ASBCI), which I had the pleasure of attending.

A number of high-profile speakers putforward the aspects that are affecting productionin Great Britain today, as well as giving aninsight into their own manufacturing storiesand realities. With most of the speakers –including representatives from J Barbour &Sons, Johnstons of Elgin, Courtaulds, BuffClothing and Fashion Enter among others –successfully producing all or at least parts oftheir stock in the UK, it offered someaffirmation that it can be done, but alsodelivered a reality check as to the shortfalls.

One of the key insights from the day that has stayed with me was given by JennyHolloway, founder of Fashion Enter – aninitiative that helps young people get a foot into the fashion and clothing industry – whowarned, “Everyone wants to be a designer, but no one wants to work on the production sidebehind it. We need to make manufacturing sexyagain.” I felt this was a pertinent and timelyobservation, as the majority of companies whoare still manufacturing in the UK are faced withan aging workforce, with an average age of 45-plus, or a substitute of foreign workers.

Making manufacturing and productionprofessions “sexy” again is therefore mostcertainly an important element in any revival ofhome-grown factories. The onus is on theindustry to support this pursuit by offering notonly apprenticeships but also promoting andpublicising production jobs to a new generationof young people who want to break into thetextile industry, and to show that there are moreopportunities than “just” being a designer.

This is going to be the only way topreserve the amazing skillset that once defined British manufacturing and helped theMade in Britain tag become desirable andsomething to be proud of. For more on theconference, turn to page 27, where wesummarise the key speeches.

As always, don’t hesitate to get in touchand email me at [email protected] ortweet me @wwbmagazine.

Isabella Griffiths, editor

EditorIsabella [email protected] —ContributorsVictoria [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Online editorSuzanna [email protected]—Fashion writerNatalie [email protected]—Editorial assistantCarey [email protected]—Sub editorAmanda [email protected]—Design & productionMichael [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] [email protected]—Senior advertising sales managerMina [email protected]—SubscriptionsKatie [email protected]—Production directorGill [email protected]—Commercial directorNick [email protected]—Marketing directorStephanie [email protected]—Managing directorColette [email protected]—Reprographics/printingImageData Group 01482 652323

—WWB is published 11 times per year byRAS Publishing Ltd, The Old Town Hall,Lewisham Road, Slaithwaite, Huddersfield HD7 5AL. Call 01484 846069 Fax 01484 846232 —Copyright © 2012 WWB Magazine Limited. All rights reserved. Reproduction of anywritten material or illustration in any formfor any purpose, other than short extracts forreview purposes, is strictly forbidden. Neither RASPublishing Ltd nor its agents accept liability forloss or damage to transparencies and any othermaterial submitted for publication.—

RAS Publishing is an ITE Group PLCcompany A Buyer Series Fashion BusinessPublication WWB is a fashion business publicationproduced by RAS Publishing Ltd. Other titlesinclude MWB, Footwear & Fashion Extras andCWB.

06WOMENSWEAR BUYER wwb-online.co.uk—OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2012

NEWS—

TACKLING RETAIL CRIME MUSTBE KEY PRIORITY

News of the recent robbery at the Leeds branchof designer destination Flannels earlier thismonth, which saw a gang in a stolen vehicleram raid the store and steal thousands of poundsworth of stock, has left retailers nationwide inno doubt as to the vulnerability of their storesand in particular at the premium and designerend of fashion.

While Flannels was unavailable forcomment at the time of going to press, theincident acts as a grim testament to the theoryput forward by the British Retail Consortium(BRC) that retail businesses are increasinglybeing targeted by more serious and organisedcriminals, urging retailers to reassess their owncrime prevention measures.

It was also the topic of the day at a BRCconference organised earlier this month atLondon’s America Square Conference Centre,which saw retailers come together at a meetingchaired by former metropolitan policecommander Phillip Hagon. Taking place fiveweeks before the country’s first elections forPCCs – police and crime commissioners – themeeting saw four of the country’s PCCcandidates take to the floor to answer questionsfrom retailers about the proposed plans forregional crime prevention.

In total, 41 PCCs will be elected on 15 November, one for each of the police areas in

England and Wales, excluding London. EachPCC will decide the local policing strategy intheir area and will be able to appoint – anddismiss – the police chief constable. For retailersspecifically, working with their PCC could helpto reduce the escalating cost of retail crimewhich, according to the BRC, was up 31 per centlast year to £1.4bn.

Following the Question Time styledebate at this month’s conference, retailersconcluded that they wanted business crime to beincluded in police force strategy plans, and thatthey wished to be involved in local communitysafety partnerships. They also required a clearstrategy on tackling violence and anti-socialbehaviour, and better co-ordination of policingagainst offences that cross force area boundaries.

For the BRC, it was indicative of thewillingness among retailers to work proactivelywith authorities when it comes to crimeprevention. “It’s only weeks until the new PCCsare elected by the public for the first time, and Iwant to make sure they know how a goodrelationship with the retail sector will benefitthem and other people,” says BRC directorgeneral Stephen Robertson. “Retailers are at theheart of communities, and they make a valuablecontribution to crime-fighting and, in return,they are looking for support with reducing therising cost of retail crime. Retailers want to be

“Retailers are at the heart of communities,and they make avaluable contribution to crime-fighting”

part of safe neighbourhoods, and they deserve tobenefit from reliable policing, which recognisesthe important role they play in providing jobsand services and contributing to vibrantcommunities.”

For retailers, however, the jury was stillout as to how effective the introduction of PCCswould transpire to be. “I will be interested to seehow many people make the effort to vote fortheir local PCC,” says Clive Rollinson, owner ofwomenswear, footwear and accessories boutiqueWoodie & Morris in Cranleigh and Haslemere,Surrey. “In the current climate, I am realistic asto the amount of funding that will be availableto communities for crime-prevention schemes.Like most retailers, our main investment at themoment is our own investment into people and,when it comes to deterring crime, well-trained,vigilant staff are a retailer’s best friend.”For further information visitwww.policecrimecommissioner.co.uk

In the wake of Leeds store Flannels’ recent raid, and ahead of the first election forpolice and crime commissioners next month, retailers are turning their attention

to retail crime and how to prevent it.—


NEWS—

ARCADIA GROUP INCREASESRATIO OF BRITISH SUPPLIERSArcadia Group owner Sir PhillipGreen revealed to the Daily Mailnewspaper recently that he hasincreased the number of Britishsuppliers used to produce garmentsfor the likes of Topman and BHS by20 per cent. The development comesas a result of rising costs in Far Eastcountries such as China, with Greenincreasing his use of Britishmanufactures with hopes of arevival of the UK clothing industry. —HAWICK KNITWEAR LAUNCHESWINDOW COMPETITION Scottish knitwear specialist Hawickhas launched its first shop windowcompetition, with the winner set toscoop up to £1,750 worth of prizes.The competition is open to UKretailers who stock HawickKnitwear, and the most creativewindow displays showcasing thebrand’s knits will be rewarded withthe first prize of £1,000 worth ofHawick Knitwear, second prize£500and third prize £250 worthof the brand’s products. The displaymust be in the main window of theshop on the ground floor. Pictures of the shop window and theentrant’s details are to be sent [email protected] orposted to Hawick Knitwear, PO Box13331, Liddesdale Road, HawickTD9 0ER no later than 16 November. —FASHION CAPITAL IS SEEKINGAPPRENTICESHIPSFashion Capital is looking foremployers to offer apprenticeships to candidates aged 16-24. Therequirements for employers are to payapprentices the national minimumwage of £2.65 per hour. During the18-month apprenticeship, candidateswill spend four days of the week atthe business gaining practicalexperience and one day of the weekat the Fashion Studio, where theircourse material will be covered andthe qualification completed. “It’s agreat opportunity for businesses towork with young people and to helpdevelop new jobs and skillsets in thefashion industry. Fashion Capitalhas placed candidates in successfulplacements in companies such asAsos, House of Fraser and NewLook. For more information [email protected] —

H&M ACCELERATES STOREOPENING ROLL-OUT

Fashion retailer H&M has increased the number of stores it plans to open globally thisyear from 275 to 300.

The group recently reported flat pre-tax profitsat £466m in its third quarter to the end ofAugust, falling short of expectations of around£505.5m.

It follows news that the Swedish retailerhas delayed the launch of its US e-commerce sitewith a revised deadline of summer 2013.

H&M chief executive Karl-JohanPersson cited issues such as security and logisticsfor the delay, explaining it was taking muchlonger than initially expected. “With our size inthe US, it is a complex IT set-up,” says Persson.“When we enter the US market, we want to do itin a good way.”

Persson revealed the group would alsolaunch apps for mobile shopping at the start of2013, with China the next market consideredfor the e-commerce programme roll-out.—

OLSEN CELEBRATES RECORD UKWHOLESALE SELL-THROUGH

German womenswear brand Olsen has seen aneight per cent rise in wholesale sales in 2012,with a record sell-through of 65 per cent pre-sale.

The brand, which has been in the UK marketfor over 15 years, has seen its wholesale basegrow significantly this year, including accountsin the likes of Fenwicks, Hoopers and PamelaScott in Dublin, with performance furtherboosted by strong online sales with an increaseof 200 per cent like-for-like this year.

The label has recently seen a restructureof its UK operation, as well as the introductionof a more directional set of collections, whilemaintaining its core target group of 35-plus. Fora/w 12, Olsen has been working with Britishmodel and human rights ambassador JacquettaWheeler on its advertising and image campaign(pictured). The brand is set to move its Londonhead office and showroom to more modernpremises before the end of the year. —


NEWS—

HOF OVERTAKES ASOS INVISIBILITY WARHigh street department store House of Fraser has knocked Asosoff the top spot to become the mostvisible site for fashion retail relatedservices, according to independentdigital marketing agencyGreenlight. Taking into accountboth paid-for search results – payper click and search engineoptimisation – and natural results,where search results are generatedorganically in accordance withtheir relevance, House of Frasertopped the league table with a 62 per cent visibility share andrelegated Asos to the third place.Debenhams maintained its second-place position. —ARNOTTS HOSTS IRELAND’S LARGEST SHOE DEPARTMENTDublin’s iconic department storeArnotts has transformed a spacewithin its store into Ireland’slargest ladies’ shoe department. Theproject, which took place as part ofa wider expansion and developmentplan for the retailer, saw 9,500 sq ftof space transformed into gardenlandscape-themed area, featuringtrellis-inspired divisions,ornamental display units andcolourful rattan seating areas.London and Singapore basedinterior architect Shed – thedesigner behind Harrods’ recentlyredesigned Kurt Geiger shoe salon –created the department. —INDIE GROWTH SLOWS IN FIRST HALF OF 2012Growth in the independent sectorhas slowed significantly in the firsthalf of 2012 in town centres acrossGreat Britain, the latest research by the Local Data Company hasrevealed. The growth rate has slowedfrom +2.4 per cent last year to +0.8 per cent this year. The findingsshow that 8,181 independentsopened and 7,329 closed in 2012,which is a net increase of 852 storesagainst an increase of 2,564 (+2.4per cent) in 2011. Nevertheless,independents now account for 67 per cent of all retail and leisureunits in Great Britain, a plus of oneper cent on 2011. —

INTERNATIONAL SUCCESS FORTED BAKER

British clothing label Ted Baker has reported a 15 per cent rise in first half revenue, helped bystrong sales in the US. US retail sales were up 53 per cent to $25.6m, while sales in the UK andEurope rose 7.9 per cent.

“We have delivered good results in a challengingenvironment while making importantinvestments for the long-term development ofthe brand, including opening new stores inTokyo and on Fifth Avenue, New York,” saysfounder and chief executive Ray Kelvin.

Jaana Jätyri, chief executive of fashiontrend forecaster Trendstop.com, adds, “TedBaker has sidestepped the slump many highstreet shops are experiencing by refusing todiscount early, which serves to strengthen itsfull-price offer.

“Launching into new markets such asNorth America, Hong Kong, China and Japanwhere British heritage and quality are revered,has been pivotal to Ted Baker’s strategy.” —

CLOSET TO EXPAND WITHE-COMMERCE

London brand Closet is launching its e-commercewebsite next month. The site will be a newplatform for the young fashion label, which iscurrently stocked in high street stores includingDebenhams, Dorothy Perkins, Fenwick andA/Wear in Ireland, plus online boutiques such asOli, Fashion Union, Nelly and Zalando.

A host of features will be available to guidecustomers through its range of products,including web exclusives, a fashion glossary,trend reports and style advice, the Closet blogand seasonal photo shoots.

Rachel Perrett of Closet, says, “We arethrilled to be launching our own e-commercesite this year. We now have a fantasticopportunity to communicate directly to ourconsumers and engage with them.”

Designed and produced in London,Closet is aimed at the trend-conscious 20-40year-old customer. The mainline range will beavailable online, alongside new diffusion lineCloset BLU and occasionwear range Almari.—


NEWS—

PETIT BATEAU COLLABORATES WITH CARVENFrench fashion brands Petit Bateauand Carven have collaborated on acapsule collection for women, menand children. The range will beavailable from 4 December in PetitBateau stores. Bright colours havebeen combined with Carven’selegant shapes to create a perfect setof clothes for boys, girls, women and men. The Petit Bateau andCarven collection can be previewedexclusively at Colette in Paris from5 November.—ASOS MAKES HIGH-PROFILE APPOINTMENTSOnline retailer Asos has appointedformer Amazon MD BrianMcBride as its new chair. McBridesucceeds Lord Waheed Ali, who stepsdown from his role on 1 Novemberafter 12 years with the company.Furthermore, former Marks &Spencer executive director KateBostock is also to join Asos asexecutive director of product and trading.—RETAIL LEADERS APPEAL FORBUSINESS RATE FREEZEA total of 14 retail leaders haveappealed to the government tofreeze business rates in 2013 aheadof the announcement of September’sRetail Price Index inflation earlierthis month. In an open letter to theFinancial Times, the high-profileindustry figures, including BritishRetail Consortium director generalStephen Robertson; Andy Clarke,president and CEO of Asda; AlanHawkins, CEO of BritishIndependent Retailers Association(Bira); and Charlie Mayfield,chairman of John LewisPartnership, warned that if thegovernment follows previouspractice and translates it directlyinto next year’s business rate rise, as much as £200m will be added tothe retail sector’s bills for 2013.“This would follow eye-wateringincreases in both 2011 (4.6 per cent)and 2012 (5.6 per cent), acumulative rise of more than half abillion pounds. We urge thegovernment to recognise that retailhas given more than its fair share tothe Exchequer and to freeze businessrates in 2013,” the letter states.

COOL RECEPTION FOR NEWBUSINESS BANK

The launch of the new business bank, which wasofficially announced by Business Secretary VinceCable at the Liberal Democrat conference inBrighton last month, received a cool reactionfrom the industry, who welcomed the idea of itbut have warned of shortfalls to the scheme. Thebank will provide £1bn in taxpayer funding tosmall businesses, but it will not be available foranother 18 months.

“There is no doubt that action is needed – thebanks aren’t lending enough and we know this,”says Phil McCabe, senior policy adviser at theForum of Private Business. “But we need a dualfocus – getting more transparency in high streetbank lending and improving ethics in the waybanks treat their small business customers, backedby more lending through alternative sources offinance, such as peer-to-peer platforms.”

The Forum warned the fund will have toaddress the same barriers to small business financethat are displayed by existing banks – such as poorrisk profiling and steep lending costs as a result ofthe increasing over-centralisation of decisionmaking. “That said, it will have the capacity to getmore long-term lending to growing businessesin time, and the government’s willingness to put£1bn into the scheme might incentivise otherbig investors to lend,” says McCabe. —

MY-WARDROBE.COM WELCOMESNEW APPOINTMENTS

Online fashion retailer My-Wardrobe.com hasappointed Nicola Copping as editor-in-chiefand Joanna Stephenson as trading director, withthe newly created roles designed to ensure thebusiness is able to take advantage of the growthof online fashion.

Copping joins My-Wardrobe.com fromHarrods, where she was responsible fordeveloping and launching the content strategyand online. She joins My-Wardrobe.com tooversee the editorial and creative direction ofthe brand, developing the e-commerce site’scross-platform editorial content, including themagazine-style editorial, seasonal style guidesand photography-led features.

Stephenson, meanwhile, will take up therole of trading director from her previous rolein digital marketing at Debenhams, where sheoversaw the development of the online marketingchannel. Both report to David Worby whojoined the e-tailer as CEO from Harrods in July.—

KARL LAGERFELD PRESENTS FIRSTEUROPEAN STORE CONCEPT

Karl Lagerfeld is set to open his first Europeanconcept store in Paris in February.

The store will be located on 194 Boulevard StGermain in the heart of St Germain des Près inParis, only a few meters away from the HotelParticulier headquarters of the brand.

The store is positioned as a trend-focused,accessible luxury brand with ready-to-wear andaccessories for women’s and menswear, alongsidea unique assortment of sunglasses, watches,photography and design books. The interior willblend modern and classic with black, white,mirrors and walls of light forming the backdropfor the distinctive product presentation. —

UP AND AWAY FORCOMPETITION WINNERCara Hickman, owner of footwear indie UrbanAngels in Bridgnorth, Shropshire, is the winner of a luxury hot air balloon ride. The retailer wonthis year’s competition by footwear supplierJacobson Group, which aims to reward customerloyalty. Hickman, who entered the competition atthis season’s Moda and was among a recordnumber of entries, will be joined by her team toenjoy the adventure ride of the skies. —

Regent Street turned into a runway show last month when it hosted Regent Street Style, anaccessible fashion showcase atwww.regentstreetonline.com. The event ran alongside LondonFashion Week and encouraged thepublic to get involved and appearin their very own runway, The Mile of Style. Shoppers wereasked to flaunt their style andappear in the gallery by uploadingtheir images onto the website, withTed Baker shopping vouchers up forgrabs for the most stylish people.The showcase was the latest in aseries of shopper initiatives, withRegent Street being the first street tohave recently launched a gift cardscheme, shopping app and guide. —

Brighton indie Tramp Vintage Boutique has beennamed Independent Retailer of the Year in thesecond annual Fashion Sussex Awards, winning ayear’s membership to the Fashion Association ofBritain (FAB). The store, which opened in 2010,offers an eclectic mix of fashion from the 20sthrough to the 90s, with owner Michelle Terraslooking to boost her business by tapping into thewealth of support and services her FABmembership offers. “Winning IndependentRetailer of the Year means a great deal to us,” saysTerras. “To be recognised for something we feelpassionate about makes the hard work worth it.” —


PEOPLE—

BACKSTAGEThe other side of womenswear

—

Carnaby is collaborating with The Rolling Stones in celebration ofits 50th anniversary for the 2012Christmas installation. 3D spherescontaining gold and silver recordswill be suspended on Carnaby Streetduring the Christmas period, whilethe Carnaby arches will also bedressed with The Rolling Stones’iconic tongue logo. The installationlaunches on 8 November and will bein place until January 2013.

SHOPPERSSTRUT THEIRSTUFF

“

“

Tramp wins FAB prize

CELEBRATING BRITISHMANUFACTURING

The very best in UK manufacturing tookpride of place in Westminster last month, ina specially commissioned installation at the

Department for Business Innovation andSkills (BIS). The UK Fashion & TextileAssociation (UKFT) brought together

product and imagery to create theinstallation, which saw beautiful cashmere

swags draped in the lobby alongside some ofthe best examples of Savile Row manufacture,

accessories made out of Made in the UKlabels and shoes at different stages of

production form an impressive showcase offashion made in Britain.

—

CHARI-TEA RAISES CASH

—White Stuff is celebrating afterraising over £30,000 for charityfrom its annual National Wear a Tea Cosy on Your Head Day. The money is going to the White Stuff Foundation.

—

w h E r E F a s h i o N C o m E s T o g E T h E r

accessories + footwear + woman + lingerie & swimwear + gent

17-19 February 2013, NEC Birmingham

To reserve a stand call +44 (0)1484 846069

Find out more and register for your visit at moda-uk.co.uk



OPINION—

LACK OF SUPPORT FOREMPLOYING GRADUATESIS DISHEARTENING

INDEPENDENTS ARETHE LIFEBLOOD OFTHIS COUNTRY

We have recently found ourselves in an unusual situation. Whileeveryone else seems to be cutting back on staffing, we have a vacancy.Our manager is taking a career break, and we have to find someone towork with us for one year in her stead.

I have noticed that younger members of my family have beenstruggling to find their first “proper jobs” after leaving education.There seems to be “Mc Jobs” out there, but little work that will stretchand grow a person embarking on a career. To make things worse,anyone who has been sitting around for a while falls behind; gettingsomething relevant on to your CV starts to become an urgent necessity.

So I advertised the job, not for an established manager, but for anew graduate. The position offered varied experience and would helpdevelop skills and confidence. I wondered if there was a sponsorshipthat would help facilitate it, because employing an inexperiencedperson would involve a lot of input on our part.

I have friends who have their own independent businesses, andI have become accustomed to networking on subjects of interest. Throughchatting with them about the schemes, I was surprised by their negativereactions: “Internships, sponsored placements or apprenticeships cancause more problems than they solve; they always seem to put onerousconditions on the placement”, “By the time you have done the necessarypaperwork, it has caused more work than is worthwhile”, “You don’tfeel free to make your own decisions once you have signed up”, “Theyare created for large businesses and are unsuitable for small companies.”I was starting to realise that, in some circles, work schemes have a badname. However, I had heard of a three-month sponsored placementthat did seem to fit in well with what I had in mind, and the peoplerunning it were keen about the opportunity we were offering.

I discovered, however, that the sponsorship was not available fora one-year placement and would only count towards a permanent job.Surely, although it would be helpful to encourage an employer to takeon someone permanently, the good done by a year’s placement wasworth the sponsorship? And wouldn’t it have been a better idea to haveleft it up to the graduate to decide whether they would find it useful?

Perhaps there is a reason why I know no other small employerswho have benefitted from the schemes (nor any youngsters). Regardingthe vacancy, I have interviewed an enthusiastic, well-educated youngwoman who was sent by her university careers office. If she is anythingto go by, there will be no shortage of wonderful candidates.

Emma Hayes, owner, Emma Plus, Brightonwww.emmaplus.co.uk

David Greenberg, owner, Chex Bexley, Bexley, Kentwww.chexbexley.co.uk

TALKING POINTKey industry players give their views on the issues affecting womenswear

—

As an independent retailer, I feel you have to be committed and live theprofession with a passion. After all, it’s a form of “show business” and,without doubt, it is one of the most important industries in the country,if not the world. Unfortunately, the so-called “small business bankingsector” and “local authority bureaucracy” does not understand how theclothing industry, both wholesale and retail, works.

Of course, there has been a downturn in the global economy, althoughI must say, this has been made worse by the majority of the media who,it seems, love to bury good news beneath bad news. It’s about time westarted “talking up” rather than “talking down”. With over 4.5 millionsmall businesses in the UK responsible for so much employment andturnover paying into the system, it’s more important than ever thatthose in higher authorities start to listen rather than hit us with risingcosts, ie rents, business rates, fuel, electricity and insurance premiums.

When we talk about the problems, they seem to fall on deafears. For example, try sitting down and discussing trade with yourbank. Tell them how the weather, especially the last diabolical summer,caused a slow-down in the clothing sector. We all know that ladies tendto purchase depending on the weather and climate but, if you say this tothem, they laugh it off as an excuse.

Another angle to be discussed with local authorities is the issueof roadworks and car parking. Yes, the utility people do need to addressproblems, many unforeseen, but they could discuss with us a wayforward rather than digging up a road with one doing and threewatching. There are also car parking issues – out-of-town centres kill us here – so why do we have wardens in our small high streets waitingto jump and smack a ticket on you if you’re one minute over your payand display. I must say, though, recently on consultation with our local council, I was successful in changing our car park from “up to 24 hours” to half being “four hours max” and the other half being “24 hours max”, so consumers as well as commuters could find a space,therefore hopefully increasing our trade, which shows things canhappen when people hear our voices and listen.

Sometimes, the independent in this country is viewed as thelittle shop in the village and not a professional business. We should beafforded the same respect as other countries. There has to be a generalrealisation of how important this industry, and the independent sector,is to the UK economy. Small companies are the lifeblood of thiscountry and, by listening and understanding, together we can grow.Hopefully, this is the way forward and we can all prosper together.


INTERVIEW—

Q&A

Paul Drew is another poacher turned gamekeeper, having swapped his menswear buyer position at Asos to front up sales as country manager for Dutch denim brand Denham. It’s his love of denim, in particular his strong belief in the label itself, that has signalled the move to the other side of the

fence, discovers Tom Bottomley.—

Paul Drew


INTERVIEW—

Tom Bottomley: Why did you make themove from buyer to supplier?Paul Drew: My career has been shaped by thepeople I have worked with, such as Kevin Smithat Amici Menswear, John Pattinson at Bentalls,Stefan Pesticcio at Asos and Nick Preston at JD Sports Fashion. I want to learn and workwith people at the top of their game. Also, thechance to work with one of my favourite brandsmade the move easy.

TB: When did you join, and how does it feelto sit on the other side of the fence?PD: It has been a fast learning curve, as the day-to-day running is different working for abrand, which incorporates managing awholesale team, retail team, working closelywith our PR agency, Exposure, and, of course,HQ in Amsterdam. We have fantastic customersin wholesale who I love working with. I’m ashopkeeper at heart, so I enjoy spending time inour store. In fact, a fair bit of my day is workingwith our retail team in the Denham store inShoreditch, and I know Jason Denham does thesame in Amsterdam, too.

TB: Did Denham approach you or vice versa?PD: In April, I visited my friend, Ben Sibthorpe,in Amsterdam. He is Denham’s internationalsales manager, and we went to lunch with Jason,who I have known for some time as I hadbought Blue Blood and Denham while at Asos.We talked about the UK and how Denham wasin the market. Jason wanted a different approachto the business. They asked my opinion on howthe brand should be taken forward as I hadbought Denham from day one. My views werethe same as theirs. Jason knew of my passion forjeans and his brand, and the opportunity ofworking for Denham came from that.

TB: Is working with one specific brandmore to your liking than having to buy intocountless ranges?PD: As a buyer, I enjoyed the variety of workingwith different labels – it makes the role as abranded buyer interesting. But I don’t thinkabout it now, as there are so many parts of mynew role that are keeping me busy, but it would

Nichols. For s/s 13, Coggles, Richmond Classicsand Michael Chell are some of the great newaccounts we are looking to grow with.

TB: Aside from denim, what other strengthsdoes the brand have in terms of product? PD: Denham has always been a collection brandas well as a jeans label. Outerwear is strong, as areknits, shirts and jersey. We are also starting shoes.In 2013, we will launch a collaboration withButtero from Italy and, in 2014, we will begin acollaboration with Converse USA.

TB: At what level of the market do the jeans sit?PD: When you consider the quality, our pricesare competitive. Our fabrics are from Italy andJapan, and the positioning is medium to high-end.

TB: As a former buyer for Bentalls andAsos, what experience can you bring to yournew role as country manager?PD: I have 12 years’ buying experience, rangingfrom an independent retailer through to adepartment store, online and a year at a multipleretail group at JD Sports Fashion. I have learntmany ways to trade and grow a brand, so I feel Ican help support every customer we work with.In Holland, the wholesale team visit everycustomer monthly, which has reaped rewardsnot only with the owners of the businesses andbuyers but the floor staff, too. I feel stronglyabout relationships with customers andsuppliers, as it’s what always got me the results as a buyer, so it’s no different now I’m workingfor the supplier.

TB: What’s going to be the big news forDenham in 2013?PD: Store openings in the UK, Europe and otherinternational locations, and collaborations withselected brands, including the aforementionedfootwear. Developing the women’s collectionfurther is also a key focus. |

be the single most thing I miss. Denhamproduces eight collections per year – four each formenswear and womenswear – so there is plentyof product to work with in our own ranges.

TB: Of the brands to jump sides to, what wasthe attraction of Denham in particular?PD: I bought Denham’s first winter collectionfor a/w 09 while I was at Asos, and I have alwaysbeen a huge fan of Jason’s work. On manybuying trips to Amsterdam, I have been luckyenough to go behind the scenes at the brand’sHQ and see how it operates. I have seen how ithas grown in such a short space of time. It hasan exciting future and I wanted to be a part of it.

TB: How was your first season selling? Is theUK market still proving tough, or are most ofthe retailers you deal with proving resilient? PD: It’s difficult in the market for everyone.However, we are making great progress andhave made positive steps this season. Bucking thetrend, we have increased our orders with somekey independent accounts, and have brought innew important accounts such as Coggles. We’vealso grown significantly with new women’sboutiques. We believe strongly in our women’sbusiness for the future.

TB: Can Denham become as big as G-Star?Is that what you envisage?PD: Denham is often compared to G-Starbecause the HQ is in Amsterdam. However, G-Star is 30 years old, and Denham is only five.G-Star is in 3,000 accounts worldwide, andDenham is in 300. It’s a different business model.

TB: Where does Denham now have its ownretail stores? PD: We have a men’s and a women’s store inAmsterdam, plus shops in Tokyo, Osaka and, ofcourse, London. We are planning more stores inthe UK and internationally. Franchises could bean option if we meet the right partners.

TB: How many UK accounts do youcurrently have, and how do you intend togrow the brand in the UK?PD: We have 50 UK accounts. We have realignedthe brand going forward for s/s 13 to focus andsupport them more and to take Denhamforward in the UK. We work with many greatindependents such as Accent, Choice, Pilot, SixWhiting Street and Psyche, as well as biggerstores including Cruise, Selfridges and Harvey

“I FEEL STRONGLY ABOUTRELATIONSHIPS WITHCUSTOMERS AND SUPPLIERS,AS IT’S WHAT GOT ME THE RESULTS AS A BUYER,SO IT’S NO DIFFERENT NOW I’M WORKING FORTHE SUPPLIER”

INFORMATION– Denham was launched in 2008 in Amsterdam by

British-born jeansmaker Jason Denham– The brand’s aesthetic is manifested in traditional

and “honest” craftsmanship, teamed with progressive development and inventions, and is based on the slogan, “Worship tradition: Destroy convent”

– The label has two stores in Amsterdam, which opened in 2009 and 2012 respectivey, as well as two stores in Japan (Tokyo and Osaka)

– In addition, the brand opened a London store, showroom and office in 2010

– Furthermore, Denham exports to 20 countries worldwide via a network of multi-brand stores

British luxury leather goodsbrand Tusting has launchedits new-look website,www.tusting.co.uk. Newfeatures include moresearch options, recommendedproducts and a tab to showrecently viewed products. A clean and clear aestheticdraws attention to the product.—


FASHION—

“Latin luxe”swimwearcollection Lara Ventura islaunching to theUK with a range of Brazilian-cutbikinis in bold,eye-catchingprints for theultimate in sexybeachwear. —

STYLE FILEThis month’s product news

—

�

CASUAL CHICLuxury ready-to-wear label

Moka London has launched its s/s 13collection, playing with a mixture oftextures and prints. Key styles includebodies, catsuits, structured tops withsubtle peplums, and a variation of

jackets, dresses and full-length skirts.Chic casualwear dominates, with thebrand skillfully combining Italian

jersey and linens with edgy manmadefabrics such as basket weave and poise.

—

�

NEW KID ON THE BLOCKBy Biehl is the latest jewellery label to emerge from Denmark. The brand offers endless stylingpossibilities and a vast range ofcharm bracelets, which can be

adjusted to personal taste, as well asearrings, rings, necklaces and more.

—

STYLE FLASH—

The ninth collection fromactress and designer Mischa Barton offers

trans-seasonal handbags and carry-alls in

the brand’s signaturebohemian style.

—

�

COOL CASHMERENewly launched cashmere label Illan

is on a mission to inject a quirkydesign twist to the traditional luxurycashmere sector with suitably stylish,hip and fashion-conscious designs forboth men and women. The Britishbrand offers a vast collection ofstyles, including contemporary V-necks, mandarin collar gilets,

covered zip-necks, retro ski designsand luxurious hoodies.

—

—Case studyGerman accessories label House of Cases is the go-to brandfor quirky cases for mobile devices such as laptops, tablets,smartphones and netbooks. High-quality leathers, fur andnylon fabrics are combined with trendy prints and colours,responding to the seasonal impulse of fashion. —

STYLE FLASH—

Lindy Ross, co-founder of UK brand Anonymous by

Ross + Bute, has launched hereponymous limited-edition

collection of knitwear,including hand-knits and

pointelle styles. —

Phone: 020 3219 7912 www.belovedclothes.com

01 James Lakeland, £57, 020 7636 7130

02 Yumi, £20, 020 8961 2299 03 Beloved, £28, 020 7636 686804 Lashes of London, £23.20,

020 8809 4432 05 Izabel, £11, 020 8090 0692

06 Iron Fist, £25, 01202 338500 07 Soaked In Luxury, £28.33,

020 8875 585108 Antik Batik, €175, 0845 094 401209 Orla Kiely, £122, 020 7819 011010 Madam Rage, £11.20,

01977 551907

The little black dress is an enduringwardrobe staple whatever the season.WWB looks at the 10 best updated stylesfor a/w 12, available to get in-store now. —

STOCK UPDATE—


THE 10 BESTLITTLE BLACK

DRESSES

030201

SPOTLIGHT—

All-over sequins andslashed lace inserts offer amodern take on the classicLBD. Bodycon designs areslinky and sexy and needminimal accessorising in-store but providemaximum impact.

—

06 07 08 10

04 05

SPOTLIGHT—

The Roaring 20s providesplenty of inspiration forlittle black dresses thisseason, with tassels and

Art Deco sequins adorningdesigns. Look out for opulentfabrics to match, including

silks and velvet. —

09


IN SEASON—

RING-A-DINGBig and bold statement rings are still going strong. WWB selects some of our

favourite styles, available to get in-store now. —

01

02

03

04

05

-01- Sushilla, retail price £159, 01993 706703 -02- Trisori, retail price £119, 0845 475 1456 -03- The Branch, £21, 01787 477005-04- Kit Heath, £34.60, 01271 329123 -05- Lola Rose Boutique, price on request, 020 7372 0777 -06- Tateossian, £100, 020 7384 8336

SPOTLIGHT —

Set in gold or silver, semi-precious stones andnatural colourways make asubtle statement rather than

blinding with bling. —

SPOTLIGHT —

Oversized stones in round andoval shapes make an impressionacross jewellery this season –but no more so than acrossstatement ring designs.

—

06


FASHION—

FASHION RADAR

FREE PEOPLE

Free People was initially founded in Philadelphia in 1970 andwas the original name of today’s fashion and lifestyle store,Urban Outfitters.

In 1984, the Free People name was revived and thebrand launched as an independent womenswear label. The brand now runs 72 stores throughout the US, one inCanada, and a wholesale operation in multi-label storesacross the UK.

With new collections being delivered every monthand styles updated on the website each week, the brand islaunching to the UK this month, offering dresses, denim,tees, lingerie, footwear, outerwear and leather items.

As a contemporary and casual label at key openingprice points to premium labels, Free People sits alongside thelikes of J Brand, Paige, Current Elliott, Rag & Bone andEquipment. The brand is looking to further expand acrossEurope over the next six to 12 months. —

This month marks the UK launch of US short orderlabel Free People, offering an eclectic and relaxed look.

Established:1984

Signature style: Boho chic with elements of tomboy tough characterise therange, with features such as raw edging, appliqués,embroidery and special washes key.

Aimed predominantly at the 20-35 age group, Lollipops isthe new kid on the block, having quickly made its mark onits home market last year with successful store openings andan expanding wholesale side.

The brand mixes materials like few others, meltingvelvet into wool, silk into coated fabrics, patchwork intocashmere and patterned fabrics.

Surrealist inspirations create a theatrical base, withthe current a/w season drawing on images of English wintergardens where a dog is dressed as an aristocrat. Mostimportantly, however, there is an underlying femininity inevery collection. A range of bags, shoes and jewellerycomplements the main line. —

Having launched to the UK in August, French brandLollipops is focusing on a wholesale push.

Established:2011

Signature style: A mix of materials dominates the style of Lollipops, withFrench-chic juxtaposed against Brit influences and kooky, fun looks.

LOLLIPOPS

DBK LONDON LTD(DAVID BARRY & KESTA)BRITAINS ONLY STOCKHOUSE OF OUTERWEAR,

CASHMERE & WOOL COATS & JACKETS.

AIS SUPPLIER OF THE YEAR 201111 Solebay Street, London, E1 4PW

Contact: LARRY Tel: 020 7791 7308 Fax: 020 7791 1894 Mob: 07802 640900 Email: [email protected]

www.dbklondon.com


PROFILE—

aul Slade, founder of Paul’s Boutique, is in a chatty moodwhen WWB catches up with him, even though he isextremely busy and grabbing some time in between back-to-back meetings. No wonder, what with a planned

launch of a leather and luxury line, as well as imminent signings withdistributors in Germany, the US, Australia and Korea that will push thebrand’s international expansion.

This year marks the 10th anniversary for the brand, which startedout as a small, slightly eccentric line on Portobello Market. Slade seemsgenuinely chuffed that he has made it to this milestone. We take a tripdown memory lane, with Slade recalling his childhood that formed hisinterest in fashion from an early age. “I’ve always had a keen interest infashion,” he says. “When I was around 10 years old, I used to raid mygrandad’s wardrobe, which was full of cashmere Gabicci jumpers, flat capsand sheepskin coats. I was very tall so, even at a young age, I could wear hisclothes. At school, my brother and I were fashion followers, but we stoodout from the norm. Our style icon was Ray Petri, the late fashion stylistand creator of fashion house Buffalo. We used to go to school in blackLevi’s turn-ups, hiking socks, biker boots, quiffs, and sometimes a packetof 10 Marlborough rolled-up in our sleeves.

“When I was 18, I hit the clubs and, being a student, I was alwaysskint, so I decided to make my own clothes,” Slade continues. “I went toOxfam, bought a £4 suit and took it home to my mum’s. I deconstructed thesuit by taking out the lining and showing the raw seams, leaving the threads

uncut. I refitted the jacket and tapered the trousers. I wore the suit to a cluband, amazingly, the buyer from Chelsea Green boutique SOTT spotted meand asked where I got it from. I explained, and she placed an order there andthen for 10 suits. She sold all 10 in a week at £700 a pop – the rest is history.”

The quirky style has defined the brand ever since. The collectionshave become known for their handmade, one-of-a-kind pieces, usingvintage army surplus jackets and rare American patches mixed with boldneon graphics that were inspired by the New York 80s hip-hop andgraffiti scene along with Japanese super brands such as Bathing Ape,Hello Kitty and Hysteric Glamour. A touch of British eccentricity addedin has defined Paul’s Boutique until today.

The collections have evolved significantly over the last few years,and today offer more premium detailing while keeping the vintage,British element. “When we started, the collection was pretty much allclothing, with the exception of vintage bags made out of old US hockeytops,” says Slade. “We used to customise army jackets, vintage denim andsweatshirts in our lock-up garage in West London.

“As the customer base grew, the need for less branded and less‘blingy’ product became prevalent,” he continues. “This is when wedivided the collection into two lines – Pop and Classic – still producing thefun and colourful product and not alienating our core customer. But,now, with the Classic range, the product can be bought by a much broaderdemographic. One thing that hasn’t changed throughout the years,though, is the sense of fun and quirkiness, albeit now a little more subtle.”

P

Ten years ago, quirky designer brand Paul’s Boutiquestarted out with a small stall on London’s PortobelloMarket. Fast forward to 2012 and the label is preparingfor the next phase in its development. Isabella Griffithsgot the full story from founder Paul Slade. —

GLOBALGATHERING


have stabilised, and growth for the business internationally is up.” In addition to clothing, accessories take up a massive chunk of the

offer, alongside footwear and perfume, and more product sectors are set tofollow suit. “We are in discussions with a footwear licensee, optics andluggage manufacturers,” says Slade. “We’ve received our first samples ofrolling luggage and they look amazing. We are also working on a luxuryaccessories range for men and women under a different brand name, but Ican’t say any more about it at the moment because it’s top secret.”

The business may carry his name, but the brand is far from “just”being “Paul’s”. His life and business partner Emma Minford, who he hasbeen working with since the start and has two kids with, plays a vital partin the success of the label, and both complement each other in theirskillsets. “Emma is the heart of the company,” says Slade. “Emma makes itall happen. Without her, I would be stacking shelves. I provide thedirection and the vision for the brand and she implements it.”

Is it ever difficult to combine work and private life? “We havecreative discussions in the office all the time,” says Slade. “Our biggestargument was in the early days when Emma wanted to jump onto thehippy and boho trend of dresses, but I stood firm. I wanted to create abrand and not be influenced too much by fast-fashion trends. I think Iwon,” he smirks.

PROFILE—

“We’ve talked about opening a flagship store, but have decided to focus purely on the website. There is too much risk in bricks and mortar”

With a core target group of 15-25 years olds – “quirky, creative peoplewho want something different”, as Slade describes – Paul’s Boutique is oneof those aspirational but affordable labels that sits as effortlessly andcomfortably in premium destination Selfridges as in young fashion meccaBank. Both stores are crucial to the brand’s distribution. “We still holdSelfridges as our flagship account, while Bank turned us into a hugelysuccessful national label,” he says. Cue the brand’s latest plans – anexclusive leather range for Selfridges – due to launch at the end of thismonth, which will enhance the label’s relationship with the group further.

Another crucial milestone in the brand’s development so far is thelaunch of the Paul’s Boutique website two years ago, which now turns over£9m per annum. With the strength of the e-commerce business and agrowing wholesale base, Slade is unsurprisingly not too concerned withopening own retail stores, but is sticking with developing the existingchannels further. “We’ve talked about opening a flagship store, but havedecided to focus purely on the website,” he says. “There is too much risk inbricks and mortar.”

Despite being a quintessentially British brand – “the British thing ismassive for us, especially overseas and Asia”, says Slade – the operation inthe UK is fairly small, with around 10 key wholesale accounts in the likes ofSelfridges, Bank, Topshop and House of Fraser. Internationally, however,the label’s presence is accelerating and balancing out a difficult economyin the UK. “Through the recession, our turnover has doubled year on year,thus bucking the trend,” says Slade. “This year, however, in the UK, sales

Paul Slade

Your

One

Stop

Shop

for

Stock

T: 01450 363 100

E: [email protected]

www.hawickknitwear.com



REPORT—

Titled “Made in the UK – fashioning a future for British clothing manufacturers”, the conference wasorganised by the Association of Suppliers to the British Clothing Industry (ASBCI) and was held at theMarriott Worsley Park Hotel near Manchester. The conference, which was the first major industry symposiumin over three years, addressed the feasibility of moving garment manufacture back to the UK and attractedmore than 160 delegates. The event was chaired by Dr Julie King, ASBCI event director and head of fashionand textiles at De Montfort University, and involved high-profile speakers from J Barbour & Sons, BuffClothing, Cooper & Stollbrand, Courtaulds Legwear, Daniel Hanson Dressing Gowns, De Montfort University,Fashion Enter, Johnstons of Elgin, Kufner Textil, Lectra UK, NWText, Pentland Group and Shop Direct Group.They explained how the best creative design talent in the world, a unique and globally appealing heritageand an uncompromising commitment to producing quality niche products, combined with energy savingproduct innovations and rapid response production practices, have made luxury and volume garment andtextile manufacturing a viable proposition in the UK. Delegates also heard how employers and colleges arelaunching collaborative apprenticeships, designed to fill the skill shortages gap and make a career ingarment manufacture sexy and appealing to a new generation. While speaker companies continue to pursuenew export markets, they appealed to retailers to play their part in supporting UK suppliers, thereby creatingmore jobs and contributing to an economic recovery.

Back row from left: Mark Lyness, Jenny Holloway, Ian Sime, JulieKing, James Dracup, Sangita Khan, Eddie Jones and MichaelBentley. Front row: Michael Stoll, Katie Greenyer, Jonny Mitchell,Michael Spenley and Daniel Hanson

MAKING IN THE UK –A VIABLE OPTION?

>>>

WWB recently attended the ASBCI conference, which explored the revival of UK manufacturing. WWB sums up the highlights from some of the key players.

—


REPORT—

“We must nurture our design talent”

KATIE GREENYER

Katie Greenyer is creative director of fashiondesigner and manufacturer Red or Dead, ownedby UK British brand management companyPentland. She also heads the group’s central style,product and innovation team and is a Pentlandambassador, regularly speaking at designconferences and colleges. —The woman who famously staked Red or Deadfounder Wayne Hemingway in the late 80s toland freelance work is now creative director ofthe quintessentially British brand, which wasacquired by Pentland in 1996. She opened theconference with a characteristically passionateand patriotic presentation on all things British-made, while fast-tracking delegatesthrough her meteoric career in fashion, whichwas founded on a lifelong passion for print andcolour, having worked with the likes ofChristian Lacroix, Vivienne Westwood, Next,Jigsaw, Paul Costelloe, French Connection andDr Martins. She explained that in a bid toconstantly refresh its creative edge, Pentland,the biggest employer of designers in the UK, hasset up the Design Pool, where “we nurture thebest design talent in the world.” The DesignPool gives outstanding design graduates 11months’ work, an £18,000 salary and anopportunity to apply their talent to commercialproducts. Greenyer enthused, “I am proud to befrom a British family company... a Britishbusiness paying British taxes!” —

“Aspire to being the best tosecure future of UKmanufacturing”

JAMES DRACUP

James Dracup is group managing director ofScottish knitwear brand Johnstons of Elgin. Withover 700 employees, the privately held companyis one of the largest independent employers inElgin since the mid-1800s, operating a knittingplant in Hawick and a weaving plant in Elgin. —James Dracup spoke about the rich heritage ofJohnstons of Elgin and the Made in Scotlandattribute that defines everything the companydoes and stands for. He acknowledged that thisyear has been one of the most challenging inrecent times, but asserted through a number ofreasons why the company is looking to thefuture with cautious optimism. Crucial to this is“customer” and “market” which, as he stressed,“are the heartbeat of our business”, whichexports to over 40 countries around the world.Dracup explained that Johnstons of Elgin isinvesting heavily in product design andinnovation, responding to the expectations ofthe luxury consumer and creating “a need tobuy” with new compositions, colours, texturesand aesthetics. He urged delegates to “only aspireto make the best”, and not look for volume perse, but for quality of production. “While it’s truethat textile manufacturing in the UK hasreached a dangerously small size, it is nocoincidence that those who survive and prosperhave a commitment to craft quality and bespokemanufacture,” he highlighted, adding thatproduction flexibility is a crucial element in thecompany’s considerations, as run sizes aregetting smaller and speed to market isaccelerating. “This production flexibility comesonly with enormous commitment to capitalinvestment in plant, people, systems andfacilities,” he said. “Every year, we investcontinuously back in our business.” Dracupfinished by stressing that he believed there is afuture for textile manufacturing in the UK “for businesses that base their proposition onexcellence of product, invest in design andcapital projects, operate in niche markets,employ bright young people, give excellence ofservice and look to the world for their markets.” —

“Volume production in theUK is possible”

SANGITA KHAN

Sangita Khan is the founder of Buff Clothing, aUK manufacturer producing volume garmentsfor the likes of Next, River Island and Matalanin its factory in Leicester, as well as its owncapsule collection, Buff Clothing. —In her speech, Sangita Khan focused on thefeasibility of volume production in the UK, andpassionately put forward the case that “Yes, it canbe done! It is being done but, unfortunately, notenough.” Khan used her own company’sexample of producing for big high street names,and listed six reasons why other companiesshould follow suit and start producing in theUK. Firstly, lead times are quicker whenproducing in the UK with speedier lead times,from concept and design to production anddelivery, as companies can hold fabric and reactquickly to different style requirements in thesame fabric. Secondly, UK manufacturers canreact to emerging trends quicker. Thirdly, Khansuggested that by dealing with UK designersand manufacturers, communication is muchmore streamlined and slicker, from conceptstage and fine-tuning the design to theproduction process, with any occurring problemsable to be ironed out before the bulk is produced.Fourthly, Khan looked at bestsellers and howUK manufacturing enables immediate andreactive production on repeats, allowing retailersmuch more efficient replenishment of itsstrongest sellers. As the fifth reason for movingto UK suppliers, Khan quoted a rise in consumerinterest in UK-produced goods. “Made in theUK is increasingly associated with quality, aswell as a sign that we value the society in whichwe live, and the idea of it being home-grown isever more important,” she said. Finally, Khanhighlighted the value that reviving UKmanufacturing would bring to the society as awhole, creating more jobs and allowing theclothing industry to thrive once more. —


REPORT—

“How ethical a choice is UKmanufacturing?”

MICHAEL SPENLEY

Michael Spenley is head of corporate responsibilityat online and home shopping retailer Shop DirectGroup (SDG). The Group has annual sales ofover £1.7bn and serves more than five millioncustomers. It has around 200 suppliers of own-brand clothing and footwear globally, with400 factories, five of which are UK-based. —Michael Spenley shared the realities ofproduction in both the UK and in developingcountries. “The ethical debate goes somethinglike this,” he began. “UK manufacturing isgood, offshore manufacturing is bad. But is thisview misguided?” Spenley revealed that SDGwould like to produce more in the UK, butcannot find enough factories who meet itsethical standards and can work with its pricesand minimums on styles, with currently onlyfive out of its 400 factories based in the UK. “Weare a business, not a charity, and must deal withour UK suppliers on a level playing field withour options globally,” he explained. Spenleystressed that contrary to public perception,developing countries – in particular China –have seen vast improvements in health, safetyand better wages for its workers, while“sweatshop Britain” is also a sad reality, listing anumber of examples of these “ugly ducklings”.“There are certainly lots of factories out there,but most are too small to fulfil our orders, unlessthey club together with unauthorised ‘hidden’sub-contractors, where many workers are ontemporary contracts or self-employed withoutaccess to sick pay, holiday pay or benefits,resulting in transparency issues aroundpermission to work in the UK as well as factorssuch as minimum wages, hours and so on,” heexplained. Spenley concluded by saying that UKmanufacturing offers lots of opportunities, butthe suppliers’ costs are high and margins arenarrow and, where there are narrow margins,there are shortcuts and risks. “We are hopeful fora resurgence to the UK, but we are also realistic,”he said. “I feel we probably need to give it a fewyears before we can think of England as themanufacturing superpower it once was.” —

“Making manufacturingsexy again”

JENNY HOLLOWAY

Jenny Holloway is the founder of Fashion Enter,a not-for-profit industry organisation thatoffers support, mentoring, professional adviceand exposure to talented young designers andmanufacturers. Among Fashion Enter’s portfolio ofservices is resource website FashionCapital.co.uk,the Profile Fashion Event and The Showroom, aplatform for young designers. —Holloway put forward the case forapprenticeships and training schemes, enablinga new generation of designers – but especiallyproduction and manufacturing professions – amuch-needed break into the industry. Hollowaytalked about her own experiences, having setup –with support from online retailer Asos –The Factory, a 4,500 sq ft production unit inHaringey that employs 34 people and producesup to 5,000 garment units per week for clientssuch as Asos, John Lewis, Oasis, Lipsy andsmaller emerging London designers. A morerecent addition is The Fashion Studio, based atthe Knowledge Dock at the UEL campus, whichis also the home of the Fashion and TextileApprenticeship Programme, and gives over 40new designers facilities for toiles, patterns andshort-run production. Holloway highlightedthe lack of specialist training and skills, andpassionately urged the industry to do more torectify the situation. “There are a number ofbarriers in UK production, such as a lack ofspecialist training and skills,” she said. “Ourworkforce is from European countries such asPoland, Hungary and Bulgaria. Our own,domestic workforce in these fields is ageing –our machinists average at age 45. We have apatchy infrastructure, because there is noconcerted effort to work as one for the good ofmanufacturing. The perception generally is thatmanufacturing is not sexy; everyone wants to bea designer, but what about the production skillsbehind it? We need to make manufacturing sexyagain!” she demanded, and offered a number ofsolutions. “Yes, there is price pressure, but we cancompete on large runs.” —

“UK manufacturing equalsskill and quality, not pricesensitivity”

DANIEL HANSON

Daniel Hanson is CEO of his eponymous luxurygown brand Daniel Hanson, which he founded in1989 following a wealth of production anddesign management roles, as well as lecturingpositions. The brand today is one of the leadingluxury nightwear and kimono labels, renownedfor its immaculate quality. —Hanson ran delegates through the history of hisbrand, which was launched after he had beencollecting old dressing gowns for 10 years. Thecompany grew to 28 people in 10 years, and 60in 15 years. However, Hanson stressedmanufacturing in the UK always had itschallenges, no matter what era. “Believe me,staffing for manufacturing in the UK was, atthat time, no less difficult than it is now,” hestated. “Getting good machinists and amassing abody of skilled people has never been easy.”Hanson went on to explain that in thebeginning of this millennium, the cost ofrunning a first-generation manufacturingbusiness without a substantial financial base orretained assets became prohibitive in the UK.The company was forced to downsizedramatically, retaining a full-timemanufacturing and staff team of eight people,producing low-volume, high-cost products inNottingham, and high-volume, low-costproducts in the Czech Republic. “What did welose when we downscaled? Above all, skills, thencamaraderie, intellectual property and the driveto expand the business,” he revealed. “What didwe gain? Financial sanity and our heritage as adesign company.” Nevertheless, on the brink ofmoving his manufacturing completely to theCzech Republic in 2006, Hanson had anepiphany. “I told my partner that while I wasalive, we would retain manufacturing in theUK,” he said, before giving a positive outlook oncurrent UK manufacturing: “We once againwant to make in the UK, and we believe it isbecoming more and more realistic, providingwe concentrate on the ‘less price-sensitive’aspects of our product ranges.” —


INTERVIEW—

WORD ONTHE STREETFlip is the new arrival on the UK exhibition scene, with the show set to extend its reach for itssecond edition in February. Isabella Griffiths caught up with event director Jamie Harden andevent manager for womenswear Silvia Collins about their ambitious plans. —

Isabella Griffiths: Flip is gearing up for its second edition inFebruary, having been launched for s/s 13. What have you got in-store for the next show? Jamie Harden: We launched Flip in August as an urban, street, board andaction sports lifestyle exhibition, having responded to the industry’s callfor a dedicated UK trade show for the sector. With our first edition, webuilt the foundations for further expansion. The feedback we gained fromexhibitors and visitors was that there is room to particularly strengthenthe presence of urban, street and lifestyle labels, especially in the unisex,denim and young womenswear segment, so we are looking to introducemore of these labels to our mix.

IG: What type of brands are you looking to attract? Silvia Collins: We’re looking to attract unisex labels and youngwomenswear collections. In terms of market positioning, it’s those at entryto mid price points that are aimed at the 15-25 age group at the core.Saying that, the sector is so diverse and vibrant, it’s not just about fittingone-dimensional criteria. We want to bring together collections that arequirky and unique and that have attitude and an edge.

IG: Flip is a new addition to the exhibition circuit – what point ofdifference does it offer? JH: Flip fills the niche for a UK trade show that brings together theurban, street and young fashion sectors for men and women under oneroof. It’s no secret that the European show landscape is changing, mostnotably with Bread & Butter’s latest move to consolidate its show with amuch tighter edit. Equally, many brands are reviewing their strategies andrethinking their show commitments with a much stronger focus ondomestic shows. I think the times where shows were a PR and marketingexercise are over, and what counts is that they reach well-targeted, seriousbuyers. At Flip, we deliver on that. We are putting a lot of effort intogetting the right buyers. If you’re a brand, you need the right buyers andrelevant stores, not time-wasters. We’re not interested in smoke andmirrors, but in credible buyers who will generate serious orders and moveyour business forward.

SC: I think the same goes for retailers, though. Budgets are tight,and, for many retailers, it’s not viable to visit the European trade shows; it’sexpensive, and a hassle. But, at the same time, it’s never been more importantfor retailers to keep their offer fresh. If your customers are careful aboutwhat they are spending and footfall isn’t good, you need to evolve yourproduct selection and source the labels that are going to inject somenewness into your offer and revive your customers’ interest in your store.That’s where Flip comes in.

IG: Flip runs alongside the UK’s largest trade exhibition, Moda.Are there any synergies and benefits that this offers? SC: Moda is the only UK trade show to bring together womenswear,menswear, footwear, lingerie and accessories, attracting key buyers frombig stores such as Fenwick, Asos, BrandAlley, Amazon, Bentalls,Debenhams and Liberty, as well as some of the best indies in the country.

Flip adds another dimension to the mix and offers existing visitors thechance to further diversify their offer and tap into a fresh and newproduct mix. We are also launching targeted marketing activities to attractkey buyers from the urban, street and young fashion sectors, so the nextedition of Flip promises to be an exciting event.

JH: Moda is an established trade show, and the profile of the eventhas expanded over the last few years with a wealth of industry sectorshaving been added to the mix. Moda hosts the leading showcases formainstream womenswear and menswear, as well as the national shows forthe footwear and lingerie industries, while contemporary area Select is amore recent and successful addition to Moda Menswear, having showcasedthe likes of Dockers, Palladium, Original Penguin Footwear, SupergaFootwear, Gabicci Vintage and Selected at its last show. Flip will furtherdiversify and expand the contemporary offer and strengthen not only theconcept but also the venue of the shows as a key event on the nationalexhibition calendar. We are working hard to make sure the right brandadjacencies are meeting the right buyer profile and vice versa. I think it’simportant to stress that we are doing this in response to industry demand, sowe are open to relevant feedback and to hear what brands and retailers arelooking for. We are not just organising a trade show; we are creating a hubfor the industry. There will be dedicated catwalks, seminars, live music,drinks parties and more, providing a networking platform that willbenefit brands and retailers alike.

Flip takes place on 17-19 February at NEC Birmingham. For moreinformation visit Moda-uk.co.uk/flip or email [email protected] [email protected].

Jamie Harden and Silvia Collins


OPEN TO QUESTION—

At present, I save 30 per cent ofmy budget for short order andfor repeating in-season. Itallows me to react to weatherand trends as they happen. I have always kept around 30 per cent of my budget backfor this reason.

It allows you to react to trends,weather and stock shortages in-season. However, the natureof short-order collectionsmeans the quality is not alwaysgreat. But I have found somegreat short-order brands thatalso produce quality collectionsthat are perfect for my market.

There is definitely room in themarket for more good-qualityshort-order collections.

I think it will stay the same. Itis important for me to havegreat quality, beautifulforward-order collectionsmixed with short order ondemand. But, if morecompanies can produce great-quality product withshort lead times, I would lookto change the balance.

I think it is relevant across themarket in varying degrees. Weall want to have relevantproduct that works for ourcustomers when they want it.

Work on quality and mark-up.A great short-order rangeshould offer a decent mark-up.A lot of short-order brands alsosell direct from their ownwebsite at a lower margin; thisisn’t helpful to a retailer as weneed to match the brand’s price,which lowers our margin. I’vedropped short-order collectionsin recent seasons because of this.

DERYANE TADD owner, The Dressing Room, St Albans,Hertfordshire

THE SHORT ORDER DEBATE Is in-season buying on the rise, or just something the young fashion market embraces? WWB quizzes key

indies about the importance of short-order ranges to their in-store offer.—

What is theratio of short-order vsforward-ordercollections inyour store?

What are theadvantagesanddisadvantagesof short-orderbuying?

Do you feelthere areenough high-qualityshort-ordercollections out there?

Will forwardorder alwaysbe part of yourbuyingstrategy, or doyou see thischanging inthe future?

Is short-orderand fastfashion onlyrelevant in theyounger endof the market?

What couldbrands do toimprove theirshort-orderservice?

We allocate around 10-15 percent to short-order buying. The ratio changes slightly infavour of short order in winter.We tend to be more carefulwith our forward buying fora/w, and top-up the stock asand when.

It helps to maintain a healthycash flow and keeps themerchandise exciting. On thedownside, short order is a quickway to mess up your budget. It’simportant to include bothforward and short order in youroriginal budget to avoidoverspending towards the endof the season. It takes disciplineto adhere to that.

It is a struggle to find greatcollections that offer in-seasonbuying. There is much more onoffer for the younger market,but not so much for the older,medium-priced market.

We will always buy a majorityof our stock by forward order asit works for us. We know ourcustomer well and feel confidentabout buying our core brandssix months in advance. It’s alsogood to know what’s coming, asit makes it easier to plan oursocial events and marketingactivities around the deliveriesof new stock.

At this point in time, it’s theyounger market that benefitsfrom it the most. This is becausethe offer for the sector is muchwider and more exciting thanothers. The brands that have the35-plus customer in mind haveto understand that in thecurrent climate there is a highdemand for in-season buyingand they need to act on it.

The problems we’ve had in thepast are the lack of supply ofbestselling garments and theuneven distribution of sizes. Weorder across the sizes that arerelevant to us (8-18), and notbeing able to do that can befrustrating. Labels that offer ashort-order facility should havean analytical team to get theirmerchandise planning spot on.

KASIA COLE owner, Swish Boutique, Marlow,Buckinghamshire

Short order takes up around athird of our offer, although thisis altering as the marketchanges. S/s will be a higherpercentage, as I can work withthe economy and the weathereasier through the summer. Wewear summer clothes for amuch shorter time, soautumn/winter is where wemainly invest.

Short order brings a constantfreshness to my store. It’s greatto offer something fresh andnew every few weeks.Disadvantages are cash flow, asmost act on pro-forma. Thiseats heavily into cash flowwithout immediate return, andsometimes the quality of shortorder isn’t as good.

I am lucky to work with some great short-ordercompanies, but there is alwaysroom for more.

Buying forward order willalways be a part of my store. It’s the foundation, and Ibelieve my boutique needs thisstandard and reputation. Shortorder is like the icing andcherry on the cake. Without the cake of forward order, it has no structure.

Short order and fast fashion isoften seen to be for the youngermarket, but it’s how you buyfrom any collection and howthe styles are worn rather thanthe brand themselves thatdetermines its age range.

I think short-order brands haveto work hard to keep indiesinterested, as we cannot affordconstant returns on faultyitems, therefore quality overquantity. Pro-forma is a killerand, although I understandwhy, it’s difficult for us to worktogether in this way.

SARAH CLARE owner, What Sarah Did, Hitchin,Hertfordshire

Short order makes up less than10 per cent of my buy and is focused more to theaccessories side of the business.

In theory, I think short-orderlines are good as they can offergreater financial flexibility andenable buyers to react quickly tocurrent trends and conditionssuch as the weather. But theshort-order brands I haveviewed recently seemed to lackthe direction, cohesiveness andquality of the forward-orderbrands I currently buy into.

I have personally found it hard to find short-order brands that are targeted at the35-plus audience.

Forward ordering will remainmy buying strategy, especiallyas brands such as MiH Jeans,Pyrus and Petit Bateau haverecently been fantastic inworking with me in-seasonand reacting to my store’s andcustomers’ needs.

I still associate short-orderbrands as catering for a youngerdemographic who are trend-led, and for buyers whowant to react quickly to trends.And personally, I see this astipping over into the highstreet territory.

I think short-order brands do agood job for the market theyare serving, but it doesn’t fitinto my concept of the store.

HANNAH JENNINGSowner, Starburst Boutique,Dartmouth

I forward order around 70 percent of our brands, as theyrequire it and because I like tocoordinate styles and coloursfrom different brands to createmy own exclusive range for mycustomers. Around 30 per centof my budget goes on shortorder, of which around 10 percent is for new ready-to-wearbrands. The rest is for accessories.

Not committing cash flow upto six months in advance forlines before seeing what keytrends are spotted on catwalks,the high street and editorials in-season is an advantage. Themain disadvantage is that mostkey brands require forwardorder and do not hold muchstock in-season, so it would be arisk to miss out on popular styles.

I think it is usually easy to pickup accessories of good qualityin-season, but much morechallenging to source well-made ready-to-wear.

I think forward order isinevitably going to remain thelargest part of my budget due tothe collections I carry, butminimums will become moreflexible with not so muchcommitment upfront. But I ammaking a conscious effort towork with brands that carrymore short-order product.

No, I think it is also relevant formy age customers, too (30-60)as they are discerning and keepup-to-date with fashion pressand blogs.

I think they could react to keyin-season trends more quicklyand often to give the indies achance to compete more withthe high street. They could alsobe more flexible on paymentterms like 50 per cent beforedelivery and 50 per cent after30 days – they are then gettingtheir materials paid for at leastbefore delivery.

JANINE O’KEEFE owner,O’Keefe, Esher, Surrey


SHORT ORDER—

RAPIDRESPONSEWWB profiles the labels presenting short-order, mid-season and flash collections during a/w 12,perfect for a quick injection of on-trend styles. —

RUBY ROCKS Known for pretty day-to-night dresses, vintagestyling and conversational prints, Ruby Rocksstarts off a/w 12 with tones of black, grey, tan,nude, ruby red and jade. Key pieces includebodycon and midi dresses, a leopard print pencilskirt and a hummingbird-motif cropped knit.The brand is also happy to develop productswith buyers, who can choose shapes inalternative prints, making theirs a bespoke buy. Delivery: three to four weeks. Wholesale prices:£15-£22. 07973 718301 —

CHEAP MONDAY Cheap Monday’s Novemberexpress collection presents a tightand sporty silhouette with volumeadded to the sleeves, shape and cutsof some of the tops. Details such asfrills, embroideries, a lurex knitand shimmering jersey add afestive touch, with fancier jerseystyles featuring thick, rough metalzips. Dominating colours are silverand dark, sparkling purple.Delivery: immediate. Wholesaleprices: £3.70-£24.10. 0046 8305900—

SOAKED IN LUXURY New York’s “uptown” looksprovide a wealth of inspiration forSoaked in Luxury. The Danishlabel looks to New York for styletips this season. Capturing theessence of how women in the bigapple live, the collection is aninterchangeable mix of uptownlooks with a vibrant colour paletteof metallics, mulberry shades andgreens mixed with classic blackand navy. Going from the office toevening is easily catered for withdresses, jackets and smart blazersthat have a multi-functionalquality, while key pieces includesequin blazers, designed to belayered over chic black dresses. Delivery: immediate. Wholesaleprices: £6-£36. 020 8875 5851 —


SHORT ORDER—

OLVI’S Olvi’s Lace collection is a mixtureof modern classic and bridalfashion. The brand’s focal point ison the creation of feminine fashionacross its varied range, using thehighest quality lace and eminencelining. The a/w 12 range compriseselegant long, mid and short dresses,skirts, trousers, tops, tunics, jacketsand bustiers. Delivery: up to 12 weeks. Wholesale prices: £240-£275.01625 529529 —

WIZARD JEANS Wizard Jeans welcomes a newaddition this season –midnight blue straight-cuts inlaid with light-reflecting sparkle, building onthe success of its bestselling sparklyskinny jeans. Wizard Jeans’ clevertechnology is adopted throughout,with the Baroque trend theinspiration for a/w 12. Delivery: immediate. Wholesaleprices: £37-£65. 07768 816420 —

NANCY DEE Specialising in day-to-night jerseyfrom sustainable sources, andmanufactured exclusively inBritain, ethical label Nancy Deemixes classic shapes with boldprints for a/w 12. Orientalinfluences shape the collectionwith a rich colour palette ofopulent maroon red, burnt orange and caramel. Further east,Japanese shapes such as kimonosleeves, wraparound dresses andobi-style belts provide key detailsto certain styles. Delivery: immediate. Wholesaleprices: £15-£50. 020 7183 3658—

LASHESLashes edits the major trends for a/w 12 with a globalapproach. Partywear label takes its inspiration from fleamarkets in LA to art museums in Paris this season.However, the brand’s signature London cool, adoptedfrom street style and vintage remains at the core, withembellishment as standard. Four key trends are at theforefront of the collection – Brash Baroque, ElektricNights, Ice Queen and Vintage Luxe. Hot neons on amidnight black base, metallics and galactic prints are keythemes for Elektric Nights, and Brash Baroque featuresclassic Rococo design with over-embellished pieces andempire lines. Delivery: two to eight weeks. Wholesale prices: £7.85-£46.40. 020 8809 4432—

LOVESTRUCK Available at selected boutiques across the UK and Europe, the40-piece a/w 12 range balances occasionwear with hand-finishedtouches to simple day dresses. Oriental and Grecian influencesplay a key role this season with gold-plaited strap detailingand waterfall frills across dress options. Delivery times: immediate for items in stock; for those not instock, four weeks. Wholesale prices: £8-£18. 01707 257168 —


SHORT ORDER—

BELOVED Launching for a/w 12, Beloved isLondon fashion brand Darling’srebellious sister label.Available for short order,Beloved is described as “the go-tolabel for when the Darling girl is in amischievous mood” and features funand flirty partywear which, likeDarling, is ultra-feminine andvintage-inspired. The debut collectionis full of day-to-night pieces in luxefabrics such as velvet, lace and brocadein a colour palette of metallics andmonochrome alongside on-trendaubergine. Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices:£6-£42. 020 7636 6868—

AMERICAN VINTAGE American Vintage punctuates its well-established basics this seasonwith colour pops of blackberry,raspberry, forest green, electric blueand mustard. Smooth jersey fabricsand cosy knits rimmed with silk arehighly sought-after, while abstract,asymmetrical and stripe printsprovide even more interest. A menswear line with similar themesis also available for short order. Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices:£12-£50. 020 7486 0486—

RESULT CLOTHING Result Clothing offers a range of high-performanceouterwear and accessories from stock. Highlighteditems for a/w include a down-feel, lightweight water-repellant jacket, versatile 3-in-1 jacket withperformance insulation and a cosy unisex snood.Available in sizes 8-16. Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices: £2.95-£31.95. 01206 865605 —

IRON FIST The a/w 12 range from Iron Fist takes its cuefrom multiple places. The Swing Low rangelooks to the Art Deco era and glamorous pin-up girls, while the Hollywood line is morecasual with day-to-night pieces featuringinteresting prints. Finally, the Night a Lightrange is eveningwear-focused with colourpops and sequins. Delivery: three working days. Wholesale prices:£7.91-£54.16. 01202 338500—

AX PARIS Inspiration behind AX Paris’ a/wline is taken from the darker sideof fashion, with Gothic aprominent theme throughout thecollection. Despite this – and inkeeping with the brand’saesthetic – there is still a softerside with chiffon shirts andblouses with lace detail. Keypieces include show-stoppingparty dresses combined withedgier styles, including graduatedskirts, on-trend peplums andleopard prints. Delivery: immediate. Wholesaleprices: £4-£14. 07891 440758—


SHORT ORDER—

FINDERS KEEPERS After launching into the UKmarket early 2012, Finders Keepersis making its mark with high-fashion collections ataccessible price points. Two short-order drops are available for a/w 12 –Miami Nights withOctober delivery and the BrightSide resort collection withNovember delivery. Miami Nightsis a sophisticated partywear rangewith menswear and rock ’n’ rollinfluences. Silhouettes range frombodycon dresses to more relaxedharem pants, cape-like coats, fauxfur jackets and pleated skirts. Delivery: October and November.Wholesale prices: £15-£50. 020 7725 5700—

CCKT CCKT is inspired by art andillustration, working with artistsaround the world and giving thema blank canvas on which toshowcase their designs. T-shirts,vest tops and jumpers are signaturepieces for both women and menacross the a/w 12 range. Delivery: two weeks. Wholesaleprices: £13-£20. 07595 894690—

DEPLOY DEMI COUTURE The a/w 12 range from DeployDemi Couture features elegant,feminine styles made vivid in apalette of midnight tones withaccents of rose, fig and grape. Keypieces include mohair, cashmereand Harris Tweed jackets, printedpinstripe eco�denim and fittedmid-length wrap dresses – somewith removable capelet and buttondetails, others with detachable andreversible aspects. Delivery: six weeks. Wholesaleprices: from £90. 020 7935 2613 —

AVA MIRABELLE Ava Mirabelle’s signature handprinted designs areillustrated in red hues with peacock themes this season.Premium, quality fabrics range from French lace to pureCharmuese silk and luxurious velvets, harking back to theextravagance of the affluent era. Pieces include embellished,hand-weaved metallics, Swarovski crystals, delicate chainsand opaque studs. Delivery: two to four weeks. Wholesale prices: £60-£280. 07717 752626 —

DOUBLE TWO Double Two’s a/w 12 collectionwelcomes “warm handle” fabricsand pure cottons, which are pairedwith complementing brushedchecks. Classic features have notbeen overlooked with pin-tucking,pleated fronts and new, softerrounded collars. The winter colourpalette includes rich shades ofrusset, wine, plum, amethyst andpurple, softened by rose, cloud, sky blue and blush. Delivery: immediate. WholesalePrices: on request. 01924 375651—


TAYBERRYTayberry’s new a/w 12 collection combinesrich teals, plums, magentas, denims, greysand dusky pinks with traditional style andTayberry’s own design twists to createwearable, quality garments. This season seesthe new Tweed collection, comprising askirt, jacket, purse and bag, as well as anextended footwear range that caters for menand women and stylish accessories. TheEssentials range remains a constant, andincludes Tayberry’s bestselling macs, waxedjackets, hats and wellingtons.Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices: £10-£25. 01507 524816—

TULCHAN Tulchan presents a new mid-seasoncollection designed to complementthe main a/w 12 range. Eight keyitems are fused into the HighlandHideaway collection with a mix oflambswool knitwear and cotton-rich pieces. Bright shades ofteal, heather pink and navy have been incorporated on feminine floral and stripe designs.Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices:£12.50-£24.75. 01524 274025—

BIELLE Dark influences with a fairy-tale twist are at the heart of the new season forbrand-to-watch Bielle. The 75-piececollection adapts the label’s signature style to a darker, gothic look this season, whilekeeping its feminine brand identity. Subtle20s and 50s influences and opulentembellishment abounds in a warmautumnal palette of cherry, raspberry,plum, teal, burnt orange, black, brown,cream and winter white. The Doily dresswith lace Peter Pan collar embellished withpearls and diamante is a particular favourite,alongside Gatsby-inspired fringing and Art Deco prints evident on the Fringe dress. Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices:£24-£32. 020 7831 9163. Expansiontargeting south of England and Scotland.—

JOHNSTONS OF ELGIN Johnstons of Elgin has redesigned its core stockservice collection for a/w 12, featuringcontemporary, streamlined silhouettes thatcomplement modern trends while maintaining aclassic feel. The range is available across staplewomenswer and menswear designs, as well as anextensive line of luxury accessories, including scarves,hats, gloves and socks.Delivery: immediate. Wholesale prices: £40-£100,01450 360500—

ZAYAN Zayan’s second collection, Let Them Wear Roses, features arange of tops, dresses, jackets,blazers and pants in royal blue androse print silks. Structured tweedshoulders in neon orange withmetallic gold add a touch of high-octane tailoring to thecollection, while laser-cut andembroidered neon coral roses,gold spikes and cable knits keep itsoft and flirty in a way that is trueto the brand aesthetic. Delivery: two weeks. Wholesale prices: $80-$285. 0097 143463393—

SHORT ORDER—


REVIEW—

MODEL BEHA VIOUTHE KEY TRENDS TO EMERGE FROM THE CATWALKS AT NEW YORK, LONDON, MILAN ANDPARIS FASHION WEEKS.

STRIPES VS CHECKS

Designers encouraged us to takesides with print this season as wide,bold stripes vs large, abstract checksbecame a hot topic of debate.Leading the check revolution wasHouse of Holland, adaping itshoundstooth theme of a/w 12 intoan oversized shadow check in tonesof burgundy, chartreuse and gun-metal grey for s/s 13. EudonChoi’s Space Oddity collection ofclean lines and neon orange checksfollowed suit, as did Topshop Uniquewith window pane panels in apredominately monochrome palette.Sitting on the other side of thefence, Jonathan Saunders took awide stripe and ran with it. Acne,meanwhile, was more restrained witha few key leather jackets inspired bya jockey’s uniform. ClementsRibeiro showed both rebootedrainbow stripes and muted checkstogether to great effect.

JUMP START

Gripped by Olympic fever, designerstook a more sporty tack than ever thisseason, but nowhere was it moreapparent than at Zoe Jordan, whichharnessed all the key trends includingmidriff-baring crop tops and varsityjackets. Jordan also showed a relaxedprinted jumpsuit with harem trousers,which turned out to be a repetitivetheme across collections this season.Daks and Etro presented similaroptions, while Maria Grachvogel gavehers a sexier vibe with a plungingneckline. In addition, bodysuits weregiven a luxe overhaul with elongatingprints at BcbgMaxAzria and a retrorose paisley at PPQ.

Hou

se of H

olland

Acn

e

Clemen

ts Ribeiro

Tops

hop Uniqu

e

Eudo

n Cho

i

Jona

than

Sau

nders

Zoe Jo

rdan

PPQ

Etro

Dak

s

Maria G

rach

voge

l

Hervé

Lég

er


REVIEW—

VIOUR COSTUME DRAMA

London Fashion Week saw aresurgence of elegant, period-styledresses for s/s 13. Examplesincluded ultra-feminine latticeappliqués, embroideries anddiaphanous fabrics fit for a princessat Temperley London. Bora Aksuwas inspired by Marie of Romania –granddaughter of Queen Victoria –who went on to become Queen ofRomania, and her love of botanicalgardens and Art Deco design. Floor-length gowns in sheer silkorganzas with puff sleeves werepopular at John Rocha in delicatetones of china blue and blush pink.Meanwhile, London’s Royal BotanicGardens at Kew and the Britishroyal gardens provided stimulationfor Corrie Nielsen and VivienneWestwood respectively. HollyFulton put her own twist on thefloral theme with sequin embroideryworked across plastic dresses.

CLEAN SLATE

Sportswear influences get anoverhaul for s/s 13 in stark white withquick flashes of slate grey. RichardNicoll effortlessly demonstrated thisdesign aesthetic with clean, sculpturalshapes with both feminine andmasculine elements across jacquards,pique, cotton, mesh, silks, leather,knits and grey marl jersey. When thepalette is this stark, plenty of textureand technical fabrics are neededalongside mesh inserts and zipdetailing – a frame of mind clearlyshared over at BcbgMaxAzria,Christopher Raeburn and Rag &Bone. Meanwhile, Ashish and SteffieChristiaens flipped typically starklooks on their head with luxe offeringsin shimmering sequins.

Cor

rie N

ielsen

Hol

ly F

ulto

n

John

Roc

ha

Bora

Aks

u

Tem

perle

y Lo

ndon

Viv

ienn

e W

estw

ood

Chr

isto

pher

Rae

burn

Bcbg

Max

Azr

ia

Rich

ard

Nic

oll

Ash

ish

Rag

& B

one

Stef

fie C

hristia

ens


REVIEW—

SOPHIA WEBSTERFootwear designer Sophia Websterhas been working as design assistant

to Nicholas Kirkwood aftergraduating, and has now launchedher own label characterised by

feminine silhouettes and strong looks.—

ÚNA BURKELuxury leather accessories designerÚna Burke presented a colourful

and imaginative range ofhandbags, shoes and complementaryaccessories this season based mostlyon vegetable-tanned cowhide.

—

WHITE TENTEcological brand White Tent’s latest

range continued with itscharacteristic urban sportswearaesthetic, with this laser-cut

top among the season’s signature pieces.

—

WILLOWWillow’s collection stood out thanksto its clean lines and subtle colourscheme, based around corals, beigesand golds. This blazer offered theperfect balance between classic

tailoring and an individual twist. —

DAVID LONGSHAWDesigner and illustrator

David Longshaw uses his drawingsand story-telling as a startingpoint for his collection, with this season’s range entitled Eva & Doug go on Holiday.

—

MARYLINGImpeccably tailored pieces were atthe forefront of Maryling’s chic

collection, with this elegant blazeramong the highlights. The brand

impressed with a versatile collectionin a combination of summer brights

and understated neutrals. —

PAPERPaper has been making a name foritself thanks to its sleek, sharp

silhouettes, and this season was noexception. A bold colour palette ofhot pinks, oranges and purplesformed the perfect backdrop to

fierce-looking, high-impact pieces. —

SALONIThis season, Saloni offered a

feminine and wearable collection,with dresses and relaxed tops in

striking colours and prints key. Thislaser-cut cropped jacket was one ofthe stand-out styles for s/s 13.

—

THEEXHIBITION@LFW London Fashion Week’s static show at Somerset House was a showcase for creative high-endlabels across ready-to-wear, accessories and footwear. WWB picks its highlights.—

Contemporary EPoS solution equips Browns York departmentstore group for expansion and supports focus on customer service

Browns York recently opened itsfourth store, in Gainsborough. To support its expansion, Brownsupgraded its technology two yearsago, introducing new EPoS andAccounts software and migratingits till hardware from IBM to J2Retail Systems. “We saw that J2matched the performance of theIBM tills, but was a lot morecompetitively priced.”

The J2 touchscreen terminals play a useful role in managing the store’s reward scheme,with loyalty cards swiped through a reader. “Our tills display customer information andpurchase history. Sales transactions are speeded up, which contributes to good service,”observes the group’s FD, Shane Longhorne.

Fifty J2 650 terminals are installed across four stores. “We find the J2 terminals adaptablefor retail points-of-sale and in our restaurants. It’s good we can use a single machinethroughout the business.”

“Loading and configuring the tills is straightforward and we’re very pleased with J2’sspeed of delivery and support.”

Contact: Moray BoydTel: 01925 854 841

Email: [email protected]


RETAIL—

FOCUS ON THE IMPORTANCE OF LIGHT

Most retailers don’t sell floors, walls or ceilings. Instead, they sellmerchandise ranging from clothing to stationery to food and beverageand a vast array in between. This is an important mantra worthremembering when considering the lighting in any store. Whether highstreet or boutique, it is the lighting that provides key emphasis and focuson the wares. Having worked with many retailers to improve the qualityof light, we’ve seen sales increases of up to 20 per cent, purely throughgetting the lighting right, so it’s important not to underestimate thepower of light. But what do we mean by “getting lighting right”?

The key to getting lighting right is in the correct use of contrast –the balance of light between merchandise and surrounding environment.Some retailers have taken it to extremes. Take Abercrombie & Fitch, forinstance, where the contrast ratio is as high as 50:1 in favour ofmerchandise or, at the other end of the spectrum, where TK Maxx ratiosare almost 1:1.

Note that no one who carefully plans their lighting has contrastratios that tip the other way. To illuminate the circulation or surroundingspace to a higher level of illumination than the merchandise defeats theobject of retailing. Believe me, it happens; we were recently called to alarge retailer on Oxford Street who couldn’t work our why their lightinglooked so bad. Needless to say, it was because everything exceptmerchandise was illuminated. So how do we achieve this?

The obvious thing to say is “point the lights in the right direction”,but it’s a little more complicated than that. As lighting designers, wetypically talk about a “layered” approach to lighting that, more often thannot, includes three “layers” of light: 1) Background illumination. 2)Accent lighting. 3) Feature lighting.

Background illumination is the base level of light that generallyilluminates the store merchandise and circulation zones via a “soft wash”.This simply makes for safe and functional illuminance levels. Accentlighting provides direct illumination of merchandise, usually through theuse of spotlights. It is this layer of illumination that visually elevates the

TALKINGSHOPWWB asked six experts in the field of visual merchandising and retailsolutions about their key tips for creating a successful in-store experience. —

merchandise within the space. Feature lighting comes in many forms, from illumination of

vitrines and display cases to chandeliers and artwork. No matter what theform, they always have one role: to create a feature that draws the eye intothe space. These are particularly useful devices in shop windows forcatching the eye of passers by. Kurt Geiger recently developed large feature“shoe chandeliers” that are internally illuminated and provide a stunningway of stopping passers by and drawing footfall into the store.

Interestingly, many high-end retailers have dispensed with thefirst layer altogether and rely on accent lighting to provide enoughgeneral ambient light within the space. Take, for example, two flagshipstores we have recently completed – Superdry and DKNY, on London’sRegent and Bond Streets respectively. Both stores have no luminairesproviding general ambient illumination. Instead, both rely on accent andfeature illumination. However, Superdry is dark and moody like anightclub with contrast values of around 12:1, whereas DKNY is brighter,sophisticated and calm, with contrast values of around 5:1. Superdryutilises a narrow beam spotlight, while DKNY a medium beam – a smalltechnicality that adds up to a big difference. Both also utilise internallyilluminated displays and feature chandeliers to further attract the eye. Thekey in both instances has been to ensure luminaires are correctly andcarefully focused onto merchandise.

Paul Nulty is a practising lighting designer and headof Paul Nulty Lighting Design, which has recentlycompleted flagship stores for Kurt Geiger,Superdry, Nike, DKNY, Juicy Couture,Waterstones, Original Penguin and several private boutiques. For more information visitwww.paulnulty.co.uk

DKNY

DKNY

Kurt G

eige

r


RETAIL—

HAVE A POINT OF DIFFERENCE

The world of retail is constantly changing, and retailers have to evolve withit to stay on top of the game.The key thing that’s becoming increasinglyimportant is having a clear position and point of difference. You need to createsomething unique that you can also make personal. And because the physical anddigital shopping experience has become so interwoven, Connected Retail –whenyou treat all your sales channels like one “eco system” that starts with what yourcustomer needs from you and not what can you sell to your customer – is now amassive opportunity you can’t afford to ignore.

Connected Retail is the new reality. It’s driven by start-ups and big players.Competition is global and throws opportunities wide open – a retailer of any sizecan now reach anyone, anytime. The main drivers are those with the desire to createa unique experience in the most relevant way. Whether you’re a big player or a smallindependent retailer, there is certainly an increased need to create a unique, powerfulstore experience to engage your customers and build a relationship with them. Highstreet brands such as Urban Outfitters, Hollister and All Saints are good examples.

Embrace social media and marketing, think different and do things that thebig guys can’t, such as delivering a more personal experience. Take inspiration fromwhat the big guys do well, but focus on the advantage of being smaller and moreagile, and how quickly and personally you can respond to the customer to add valueto their retail experience.

The in-store design and experience is incredibly important; it allows you tobe unique and personal – it’s where you have the greatest influence and can inspire,excite, consult, collaborate and add value on a human, social and personal level. Yourphysical space becomes even more effective and important if you connect it to yourcustomers’ wider journey, for example via social media and e-commerce. You need tomix value, quality, uniqueness and personal service, and you need to beconsistent. Make it an experience and a journey, create a rhythm to yourstore, say “Hello”, lead in, offer range, then a chance to “get involved”.

David Judge is director of creative agency Start JG, specialising inintegrated brand, environment and digital experiences. For moreinformation visit www.startjg.com

LET YOUR MANNEQUINS TELL A STORY

When it comes to in-store display, for most fashion retailersmannequins are essential ingredients. But how much thought doyou really put into maximising the effect mannequins can have ongeneral in-store merchandising?

With the wealth of mannequins, looks and finishes available, it’simportant to have a clear idea of how you want the overall look of theshop to be, and to work the mannequins around it. While there is nogeneric rule, and it always depends on the individual store, differentmannequins can add different visual impact, depending on whether yougo for theatrical or fashion looks, or more realistic or basic models.

Equally, the different make-up and hair options willdramatically alter the effect a mannequin can have. Glamorous posesand younger faces have recently been favoured by our clients, followingin the vein of catwalk-inspired looks. But, equally, it is possible to adaptthe look of mannequins to suit your store’s clientele. For instance, if yourtarget audience is a more mature age group, a classic look can be applied.Remember, if you’re on a budget, go for mannequins that are versatileand adaptable to a variety of looks and themes to will get more longevityout of them.

With most bricks-and-mortar stores also operating e-commercewebsites, the visual impact of your photography is paramount.Mannequins with movement, not just up and down, can work better in certain shots, as can editorial poses. In both e-commerce and bricks-and-mortar displays, use mannequins as tools for an effectiveshowcase of your clothes, not just as an after-thought.

Kelly Owens is sales and PR manager at mannequin brandAdel Rootstein, supplying a wealth of mannequins tofashion retailers across the globe. For more informationvisit www.adelrootstein.com —

MAKE YOUR WINDOWS STAND OUT

How many times have you walked past a shop and beenexcited by what is in the window display?Most of mypurchases are made on impulse, having been lured in byenticing, colourful and imaginative displays. I can see myselfliving that lifestyle with no worries or cares. Living thedream, right?

As much as I love a bargain, I personally can’t bebothered to scramble through the sale rails, picking at piecesof cloth in case they might be something I may possibly wantto wear one day. So there we can see the importance ofeffective visual displays, not only in the window, but in andaround the shop floor, too, leading the customer around withsuggestions of clever accessorising and gifting to open theirminds and increase sales.

“Keeping up appearances” is what fashion is allabout – in any display, not just fashion – so sending out theright signals and messages to your customers are crucial. Youneed to understand your customers’ needs before they do.

Where do you start? A fabulous display needn’t beexpensive. So long as you work within a colour scheme, keepyour display simple and pay attention to detail, your windowcan be as effective as high street displays created by the bigguys. And what time of year is it? Use the commercialcalendar to inspire you with simple theme ideas, butremember your props should never overshadow yourmerchandise. Even a simple panel or backdrop behind yourdisplay can make a huge difference and look dramatic, andvinyls on the glass can be effective, too – take a look atSelfridges’ recent spots display.

Add texture to your merchandise by layering andcarefully pinning or tucking so the fabric catches the lightand flows attractively – it will bring the garment to life.Remember to stand your mannequins facing outwards soyour sight lines are increased, but keep your overall displaywithin that giant, imaginative pyramid so your eye flowscomfortably from one item to the next. Keep your groupingstight and allow plenty of space around the merchandise.

Finally, less is more; keep it simple. Remember thosepyramids and, of course, don’t forget to light you storebeautifully so everyone can admire your hard work and seeyour latest creation.

Helen Goodwin is co-founder and director of visual design consultancy Made You Look,offering visual display training to retailers.For more information visitwww.madeyoulookmadeyoustare.co.uk

Ade

l Roo

tste

in


RETAIL—

USE YOUR PROPS TO MAXIMUM EFFECT

Dressing a window is an important task, and never more so than at Christmaswhen it is important for stores to maximise their revenue opportunities.Whenchoosing decorations, there is a balance to be struck between cost, functionality andcurrent trends. You may have fallen in love with a prop, but you need to ask yourselfwhat will it do for you? Does it give good coverage for your spend? Will it help to makeproducts stand out or will it overshadow them? How will it lend itself to the themes ordecorations inside your store? Be objective and ask for feedback – you need to appeal tothe widest audience possible.

We are often consulted by retailers for window ideas. For people looking toextend a window display into their store, and to save space, safely hung decorations are agreat idea. For less experienced window dressers, our snowflakes are a great solution,being tasteful, cost-effective and simple to hang. However, we realise there is more wecan do to help. With this in mind, from 2013, we are launching “window in a box”;fully customisable shop windows laid out on our online store. Shops will be able toselect a design to fit their store.

Buying decorations that you can use again seems fiscally responsible, howeverremember that these need to be cycled over a few years – not used year after year – toavoid people becoming so used to them they stop taking notice. When buying a long-term prop, you need to think about trends and how they change – the cuttingedge can be unthinkable in two years.

This year’s key display trend has been influenced by the Jubilee, Olympics,Paralympics and all things British, so why not put a new spin on your Christmasdisplay this year and use traditional decorations in a red, white and blue colour scheme?It will keep the feel-good positivity of the summer alive in a subtle way. Whatever yourwindow design, be it for Christmas or another season, don’t overload your window, andthink quality and seasonal, not quantity.

Graham Sweet is a visual merchandiser and founder of Graham SweetStudios, a leading supplier of quality polystyrene display propsthroughout the UK. At this time of year, the Studios specialise inexclusive Christmas decorations. For more information visitwww.grahamsweet.com

DON’T IGNORE YOUR EPOS

Retail is all about judgement; having the rightamount of the right product at the right time.Eposmakes retailing easier and more profitable. Regardless ofhow well you know your business, only with Epos can you accurately...• Keep stock levels right by knowing when to replenish

each product and in what quantity, analysing salesdown to the time of day and analysing margin

• Do forward planning. Next year, Epos users will look atsystem-generated reports on 2012 Christmas trading –which products were stocked, how did they sell, whichnew products should be introduced and can youpersuade suppliers to give discounts?

• Get pricing right. Whether you’re an independent storeowner or the buyer for a multiple group, Eposconsolidates data on sales history and comparescompeting products, helping you set correct pricing

• Assess which promotions you should be doing andjudge their effectiveness. With Epos, you can incentivisestaff to push offers, measure staff performance and seehow well customers react

• Manage staff. Epos guarantees that staff enter pricescorrectly. System-defined products are selected by touch buttons or scanned. Both speed up service, giving staff time to engage with customers, addingvalue and upselling

• Improve security by minimising fraud. Without Epos,you won’t easily spot customer or staff pilfering. WithEpos, you will always know what stock should be in-store.Reports pick up anomalies such as refunds on low-valueitems or a till operator taking less than colleagues

• Collate payment services, including contactless andChip & Pin. The ability to use a card increases spend,and an Epos system with integrated Chip & Pin enablesyou to take secure card payments.

Because Epos benefits are tangible and immediatefor a single store or a multiple – by providing theinformation needed to stock the right product at the righttime, improve stock turn, enhance merchandise display andmanage staff more efficiently – retailers commonly breakeven on their Epos investment in as little as six months.

Richard Heitmann is UK sales director at J2 Retail Systems, a specialist manufacturerof PC-based touch screens, LCD touch screen monitors and point-of-salehardware to the retail industry.www.j2retailsystems.com

Selfridges

Browns, York

Harvey Nichols

For independent fashion buyers, one of the greatideas of the past five years has been the concept ofNever Out Of Stock (NOOS) collections. So it’s apity that, for too many suppliers, it’s a service

they cannot fulfil.

In my view, the number of brands out of stockwhen I contact suppliers for repeats is increasingat a time when we independents need their helpmore than ever.

NOOS seems to be a compellingargument. We buyers put down smaller forwardorders, therefore helping our cash flow. Whenwe have made sales, we call our supplier to getrepeats from their supposedly massivewarehouse of stock. It seems, however, thatmany suppliers are suffering the same pressureson their cash flow, and cannot afford, in fact, tomake up stock in advance in the hope that it willturn out to be a good seller. So rather than a trueNOOS service, a lot of brands have over-runs ofproduction and, when that’s gone, it’s gone. I amgetting frustrated with suppliers who tell methey will make more garments when they havecollected a few more repeat orders. If somethingis a good seller, I don’t want to wait five or sixweeks to get my repeats. When my supplier can’treplenish my shop, I have the job of going tofind a replacement mid-season to fill in the gapson the rails. So, effectively, I am having to dotwo rounds of buying. Where is the sense in that?

There are, of course, suppliers that dolive up to their promise, but I wish those whokeep letting me down were more honest duringbuying season. It would make more sense for meto book, say, six of a size on forward order thantwo on the unreliable promise of repeats beingavailable. What continually puzzles me is howthe fast-fashion sector appears to be able to turnthings round fast while we in the mainstreambranded area are, for the most part, no furtherforward than we were 10 years ago.

Despite the NOOS frustrations, 2012 hasbeen an OK year for me, and a/w has startedwell. I’m getting new customers who arecoming to us because their previousindependent fashion shop has closed. While weare benefiting, in reality it’s a sad situation and apertinent reminder that independents need allthe help we can get from suppliers .Hilary Cookson is the owner ofMaureen Cookson in Whalley,Lancashire, and is a member of FAB.


FORUM—

Following the success of its inauguralstore in London’s Marylebone village,fashion boutique KJ’s Laundry hasopened its second shop on Kings Road.

“We feel Kings Road is increasingly becoming a destinationfor fashion and shopping; we love the mix of fashion labelsand lifestyle shops. We wanted our store to be on a mainshopping street so we could keep the Marylebone space as astore in a more hidden location,” says co-owner KateAllden. The shop design takes a laid-back approach indécor and style, showcasing the clothes and products in anaccessible way. “We purposefully kept the fixtures low-keyto let the clothes stand out,” says Allden. “We have had fun,though, with a few wall vinyls we had designed to addpersonality to the walls.” —

KJ’S LAUNDRYOPENS SECONDSTORE

RETAIL DIARYThe latest news from the industry—

RETAILFORUM

HAVE YOU OPENED A NEW STORE, LAUNCHED A TRANSACTIONAL WEBSITE, ORGANISEDAN EVENT OR HAVE ANY OTHER IN-STORE NEWS? THEN LET US KNOW BY GETTING IN TOUCH AT [email protected].

JULES B EXPANDS ITSWOMENSWEAR OFFER

Fashion indie Jules B has recentlyopened its second store in Yarm,North Yorkshire. The two-floorstore stocks cutting-edge designersand features a designated shoe andaccessories department. “We havetwo types of customers, and havingboth offers in one store sometimesconfuses the customer as to whatwe achieve,” says Rhona Blades, co-owner of Jules B. “We decided todo what we have done in Newcastleand Kendal and open two separateshops with different atmospheresand shop fits to showcase thebrands and products in theirrespective environments.” Theexisting store has been relaunchedas The Conservatory @ Jules B. —


FORUM—

GALERIE WOMAN CELEBRATES 16TH BIRTHDAY

Newcastle-under-Lyme independent GalerieWoman celebrated its 16th birthday last monthwith an outdoor catwalk fashion show held atModdershall Oaks Spa in Stone, Staffordshire.

More than 80 people attended the event to seethe latest looks for a/w modelled by loyalcustomers and friends of the store. Alongsidethe catwalk, Galerie also put on afternoon tea,beauty treatments and a DJ for its customers toenjoy. “Putting the outfits together and seeingeverything come together was the best part ofthe experience,” says owner Karen Shaw. —

NEW WEBSITE FORMAC & POSHFollowing the successful opening of its bricks-and-mortar store in March, women’sindie Mac & Posh has now launched itstransactional website.

The boutique, based in Perth, Perthshire,launched the site after noticing an increase inglobal followers on its Facebook page. Thewebsite showcases the store’s collections,including brands such as Glamorous, Hedonia,Aqua, John Zack and Maggie & Me. —

Angela Beer43-47 Woodford RoadBramhallCheshire SK7 1JR

Owner: Susanna Beer Store opened: 1979Brands carried: Alice by Temperley, Cheap + Chic,Diane Von Furstenberg, Escada, Moschino, McQby Alexander McQueen, M Missoni, Barbour.

“Angela Beer is a family run ladies’ fashionstore, with the family members active andpassionate in the business. The positiveatmosphere translates through to their customerservice, as the shop floor staff always go the extramile. I admire their approach to stock selection,merchandise and understanding of what worksfor their business; they know their customers sowell. They have recently launched their onlinestore, www.angelabeer.com, and it looksamazing; you can tell they have put a lot of hardwork and effort into it.”

AMY FARQUHAR It’s Darling,

co-owner, Aberdeen

—“The e-commerce site isvery important to thebusiness; it acts as atransactional website andopens up our marketworldwide. It is also auseful reference pointfor customers who willsearch for things onlineand then come into thestore to try on andpurchase.” —

MANDY MCCARTNEYPavilion, co-owner,

Winchester

—“Our website isincreasingly important tous, both as a showcase to our business and aselling platform for ourbrands. Our locationmeans that many of ourcustomers cannot visityear round, and ourwebsite enables them to continue the Collen & Clare shoppingexperience.”—

CLARE GRADYCollen & Clare,

director, Southwold

—“The e-commerce site isessential to my business.I have a large followingon Twitter and Facebookfrom customers aroundthe UK and Ireland.Although people still liketo try on and browse,many don’t have time topop in. Having a websitemeans they can shop atwhatever time of dayfrom the their desk orcouch.” —

KATRINA SMITHPearl Boutique, owner,

Liverpool

We ask four retailers this month’shot question

HOW IMPORTANT IS YOUR

E-COMMERCE SITE TO YOURBUSINESS?

—“Paramount. It allows It’s Darling to be open24/7/365 and eliminatesthe geographicalrestrictions that arisewith having a physicalstore. We have shippeditems to Australia,Denmark, NorthernIreland, Norway andRussia to name a fewand, without our website, this would not be possible.”—

MY FAVOURITESHOP...ANGELA BEERBy Sam Cradock, director,Brand Studio


EXPERTS—

HOW CAN I SECUREFINANCE FOR MYBUSINESS?

The internet has created multiple channels to customers for retailers andbrands, but joining up the channels and the communications throughthem to create a consistent experience for customers still remains thechallenge for many.

Much has recently been made of retailers moving away frommultichannel to a customer centric focus, which essentially does awaywith retailers’ traditional attachment to silos and puts the customersquarely at the centre of the engagement. To this end, the multimediacustomer experience has become integral to many brands’ strategy.

The Victoria’s Secret New Bond Street flagship, which openedrecently, has used innovative multimedia technology to create experiencesfor customers, from the moment they enter the shop during storecirculation to the moment they leave. The brand is creating anengagement with customers that cannot be recreated online, but which isconsistent with the brand experience in every channel. The flagship hasbecome a destination store similar to Apple, with the aim of creating ashopping experience that is a must-see on any visit to London.

Fundamental to the Victoria’s Secret flagship is thatmultimedia is no longer an afterthought but integral to the wholeproject, redefining what is possible in-store. Bespoke fittings andfurnishings have been designed to enhance the digital experiences.Central to the store design is a mirrored hallway, reflecting animationfrom the HD LCD video wall, which is thought to be the largest of itskind in Europe. Smaller video walls are integrated into other areas ofthe shopfitting, such as the cash and wrap areas, to complement theshopping environment and layout. Specific video is regularly updated,including live feeds to new season fashion shows, ensuring each visit tothe store feels fresh and “one-off”.

When creating customer experiences, brands and retailers needto recognise the strategic value of the content they can create eithervisually or written. Ultimately, the adoption of technologies as part ofthe overall customer experience enables brands to measure impactwhile also enhancing their brand value.

Because multimedia is able to create energy in the store andconnect customers directly with the brand, retailers are boosting salesboth in-store and online, which is where the business case lies. Moreretailers and brands recognise that the key to sales is in making thestore a place worth visiting, while ensuring they can give theircustomers a joined-up experience across all channels.

Whether it is cash to get your business off the ground or funding forgrowth, securing finance is one of the key concerns of most smallretailers. Unfortunately, in an era of ongoing recessionary pressurescharacterised by continuing credit restrictions imposed by the majorbanks, getting hold of affordable funding can be extremely difficult.

From the Enterprise Finance Guarantee (EFG) to missed lending targetsunder the Project Merlin scheme and the National Loan GuaranteeScheme (NLGS), government initiatives to get the banks to lend havegone full circle. As yet, little has changed. However, the not-for-profitForum of Private Business, which sits with political and bankingrepresentatives official small business economic forum, is lobbyingleading lenders to improve the service they provide to small businesses,but it is also true that some business owners need to up their game.

The best advice when approaching your bank manager is toprovide full financial projections showing how you intend to use a loanto grow your business. In essence, banks want to know how they aregoing to get their money back. Yet week after week we hear aboutsuccessful small businesses being refused cost-effective finance to helpthem grow and create jobs. It’s the result of an over-centralisedbanking system that, frankly, is often unable to gauge risk, accurately,on a case-by-case basis.

However, under the Project Merlin agreement, you have a rightto appeal. The appeals process has overturned 39.5 per cent of rejectedfunding applications – or 2,177 small businesses initially denied finance –in its first year of operation, according to a recent report from ProfessorRussel Griggs on behalf of the BBA, the leading trade association forthe UK banking and financial services sector. The Forum of PrivateBusiness is urging more disgruntled business owners to use it.

Of course, there is more to finance than bank lending. Moreand more alternative funding models are emerging and striving tocompete in small business finance markets. Online peer-to-peerplatform Funding Circle, for example, involves multiple private lenders“bidding” to fund businesses, spreading the risk and driving downinterest rates at the same time.

In truth, you will need to explore a range of funding options.Equally, with late payment a long-standing problem, it is important totake action to ensure you are paid on time and in full. We are lobbyingto address the late payment epidemic, including providing the advice,guidance and support businesses need to put in place robust cash flowmanagement systems to get on top of payments.

Dharmendra Patel is managing director of PlayNetwork EMEA.Visit www.playnetwork.eu or call 0203 195 0979.

Phil McCabe, senior policy adviser, Forum of Private Business. For more information call 0845 612 6266 or visit www.fpb.org.

ADVICEIndustry experts answer your retail questions

—

CAN MULTIMEDIA & THEIN-STORE EXPERIENCEWIN CUSTOMER HEARTS?


DIRECTORY—

GARMENT LABELS

GARMENT STANDS

T-SHIRTS

Arctic Fox • Hats • GlovesScarves • Sunglasses • Ski Goggles

Tel: 01923 210646Fax: 01923 210647

Email: [email protected]

HEADWEAR

To advertise please call Mina on

01484 846069

or [email protected]

STEAMERS ANDIRONS

HAT BOXES

WANTED


01484 846069


RAILS


01484 846069


CARRIER BAGS

HANGERS


DIRECTORY—

Adini 020 8560 2323 www.adini.co.uk American Vintage 020 7486 0486 www.am-vintage.comAntik Batik 0845 094 4012 www.antikbatik.fr Ava Mirabelle 07717 752626 www.avamirabelle.com AX Paris 07891 440758 www.axparis.co.uk Beloved 020 7636 6868 Bielle 020 7831 9163 www.bielle.co.uk CCKT 07595 894690 www.cckt.co.uk Cheap Monday 0046 8305900 www.cheapmonday.comDavid Longshaw 020 7377 6030www.davidlongshaw.co.uk Deploy 020 7935 2613 www.deployworkshop.comDouble Two 01924 375651 www.doubletwo.co.uk Finders Keepers 020 7725 5700www.finderskeepersthelabel.com.au Iron Fist 01202 338500 www.ironfist.co.uk Izabel London 020 8090 0692 www.izabellondon.comJames Lakeland 020 7636 7130 www.jameslakeland.netJohnstons of Elgin 01450 360500www.johnstonscashmere.com Kit Heath 01271 329123 www.kitheath.com Lashes 020 8809 4432 www.lashesoflondon.com Lola Rose Boutique 020 7372 0777www.lolarose.co.uk/boutique Lovestruck 01707 257168 www.lovestruckclothing.co.ukMadam Rage 01977 551907 www.madamrage.comMaryling 020 7240 9898 www.maryling.com Nancy Dee 020 7183 3658 www.nancydee.co.uk Orla Kiely 020 7819 0110 www.orlakiely.com Paper 07968 122993 www.paperlondon.com Result Clothing 01206 865605 www.resultclothing.comRuby Rocks 07973 718301 www.rubyrocks.com Saloni 020 7431 3522 www.salonilondon.com Soaked in Luxury 020 8875 5851www.soakedinluxury.com Sophia Webster 07702 209754 www.sophia-webster.comSushilla 01993 706703 www.sushilla.co.uk Tateossian 020 7384 8336 www.tateossian.com Tayberry 01507 524816 www.tayberry.co.uk The Branch 01787 477005 www.the-branch.co.ukTrisori 0845 475 1456 www.trisori.com Tulchan 01524 274025 www.tulchanonline.co.uk Una Burke 07830 650382 www.cubecompany.comWillow 0061 292817355 www.willowltd.com Wizard Jeans 07768 816420 www.wizardjeans.comWhite Tent 020 7240 9101 Yumi 020 8961 2299 www.yumidirect.co.uk Zayan 0097 143463393 www.zayan.com

FOOTWEAR

NAMES AND NUMBERSDISPLAYS

To subscribe to WWBsimply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069email [email protected] visit www.wwb-online.co.uk

EU £75 Outside EU £146(includes p&p) (includes p&p)

To subscribe to WWB,simply call us on: +44 (0)1484 846069email [email protected] visit www.wwb-online.co.uk

EU £75 Outside EU £146(includes p&p) (includes p&p)

WHAT WAS THE NAUGHTIESTTHING YOU DID AS A CHILD?


THE FINAL WORD—

This month’s panel recalls what mischief they got up to when they were younger...—

ROBERT SCRAFTONUK sales agent, Coccinelle

—“Aged 12, I made up a large glass of truly

realistic fake blood mixture, poured it over myhead, staggered into the kitchen and collapsedover a chair. My mother freaked out, becomingquite hysterical. When she realised what I haddone she took off one of her shoes and beat the

hell out of me.”—

AMBER SAKAIFounder and creative director, Amber Sakai

—“In the name of fashion, fun andcomplete naughtiness, I told myparents I had a weekend job

babysitting when I was actually outat high school parties and testdriving my latest designs.”

—

PETER GILESManaging director, Motel

—“The naughtiest thing I did was skip a week of school when I was 16 so I could goto Glastonbury. The Prodigy played and the atmosphere was incredible, it was

worth getting into trouble for.” —

JENNY MACDONALDManaging director, Ruby Rocks

—“Many of my memories involve me and mycousins pushing each other to do scary

things. On holiday in Ireland, we used to go toa dangerous, forbidden chain bridge and dare

each other to walk across it. We used toshake it while the other would cross over.Thank goodness none of us ever fell in thefast running water of the river below. I hope

my kids never try anything like that!”—

ROSIE BONNARDesigner, Bill†Mar

—“The naughtiest thing I did was dress up in a

mini skirt, crop top and high heels for own-clothes-day when I was no more than 10years old without my parents knowing. Therewas an announcement in assembly that daythat a certain child had taken it too far,

banning heeled shoes and any form of “partygear” from any “mufti” day ever again.”

—

JEANE CHUNGFounder, Bielle

—“When I was about five or six, one of the

ducks we kept died. I don’t know how I knewabout incrimination at such an early age, butI thought I needed to do a funeral for the

duck. When my mom was busy withsomething, I grabbed a box of matches andstarted a fire, but I got so startled with flamethat I dropped the burning match and almostset fire to our lovely house made of wood.

The duck had a burial instead.”—

Meredyth Sparks, Roxy, 2008, Digital print on Sintra, 27 pieces, 182 x 171 x 231 cm,(c) Meredyth Sparks, 2008 Image courtesy of the Saatchi Gallery, London

scoop-international.com

10-12 FEBRUARY 2013SAATCHI GALLERY | LONDON

A U T U M N / W I N T E RC O L L E C T I O N S

WWB Magazine

Documents

Transcript of WWB Magazine