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ISSN 1853-9610

Nº78 APRIL - MAY 2016

MENDOZA´S FREE MAGAZINE

Mendoza

   F   R   E   E

   F   R   E   E

of Mendoza

The Lost Lakes

Nature Reserve

Villavicencio 

Winery Guide

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Issue APRIL - MAY 2016 | ISSN 1853-9610.10,000 Copies. Published by Seven Colors S.A.Address: Espejo 266, Planta baja. Departamento 3.Mendoza, Argentina - Tel. +54 (261) 425-5613Editor: Charlie O’MalleyAssistant Editor: Emilie GiraudPublicity and Publisher: Mariana Gómez Rus:publicidad@wine-republic.com,mariana@wine-republic.comCover illustration : Donough O’MalleyDesign: Circlan.com .

 Jona Conti: jona@circlan.com.Printer: Artes Gráficas UNIONContributing Authors: Emilie Giraud - Ben ShirleyPhotos: Emilie Giraud - Danone GrupOpinions expressed in this magazine are notnecessarily the editorial opinions of Wine Republic.www.wine-republic.com

CREDITS

CONTENTS

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News Republic

Its is Not All Happening at the Zoo....................

ATM Frustration......................................................

Asado Classes............................................................

The Lost Lakes of Mendoza

Ben Shirley wades into the disappearing

wetlands of Mendoza province.es......................

Guanacache & Llancanelo....................................

Villavicencio

A Luxury Watering Hole......................................

Natural Beauty..........................................................

Local Potions

Emilie Giraud leafs through the medicinal

plants found in Mendoza´s Mountains............

Wishlist

Wines and wines......................................................

Out & About

Bars...............................................................................

Dining out..................................................................

Winery Guide...........................................................

Maps & More

Map of Chacras de Coria.......................................

Useful information..................................................

Map of Maipú............................................................

Map of Mendoza City Center..............................

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NEWS REPUBLICIts is Not All Happeningat the ZooThe saga of Mendoza Zoo continues without anyresolution. This time it is the death of of 17 deer andllama with accidental poisoning the suspected cause.Perhaps it is time for a major rethink. A modern zoo canjustify its existence if it is well funded and well attendedand is pursues a breeding program that contributes tothe conservation of endangered species. Mendoza Zoofullfills none of this criteria and is in effect a parched anddusty holding area for some down-at-luck creatures. Awalk around ts shabby facilities leaves one with a heavyheart and nothing but pity for the unfortunate creatureskept there. The bird cage seems particularly cruel and

unnecessary. One has to ask would these animals notbe better off being relocated to a better funded zoo in amore temperate climate. The zoo should be closed downcompletely.

Asado ClassesArgentine barbecue - known as asado, is nothing likebarbecues back home. Every cut of the cow is cookedover a wood fueled grill with not a hot dog or burgerin sight. It is a national institution and a major part ofArgentine culture with weekends taken up with familygatherings around the outdoor grill. Many visitors missthe experience as it is rarely replicated in a restaurantor steakhouse. Also it is a little more complicated to cookand each cut requires its own distinctive method. Hoursof conversation and heated discussion are spent amongstthe locals on the best way to cook a side of ribs. Anexcellent way to experience this culture is take a masterclass in cooking asado with Angelo, the asado expert. Heinvites you into his home and his local butchers to selectthe best cuts and an evening passes quickly as you toilover the grill to produce the perfect steak.Facebook/Chef Angelo. Tel: (0261) 156809191

ATM FrustrationFor over a decade now, foreign visitors have beenrestricted to taking out 1200 pesos a day from localcash machines. This is plainly ridiculous, especiallyin a country with 30% annual inflation. The amountallowed would barely cover ones food costs for theday, never mind accommodation and excursions. Theproblem is exacerbated by local reluctance to take creditcards which from a vendor’s point of view is slow andexpensive. The result is many tourists waste a morningtrying multiple ATMs and paying hefty bank charges.We suggest you contact your bank and c omplain aboutthe situation.

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As with so many popular myths, the local belief thatMendoza is a desert can be easily contested. Sure, it isa land with a dry crust, but from the peak of the largestmountain range on the planet to the wetlands below, viareservoirs and rivers, the province is blessed with hugeamounts of what has become a valuable commodity -fresh water. To be more precise, fresh, mountain meltwater. Cordon Del Plata - a range of peaks covered insnow all year round (and which can be seen from thecity), and Aconcagua mountain and park, together mustbe the largest single snow-trap known in the naturalworld.

Like all resources, and especially given the dry climaticconditions in the region, this water means wealth andpower. In Mendoza Cipolletti dam, inaugurated in 1890,and Potrerillos dam, completed in 2001, combined withthe gentle inclination of Mendoza’s desert plains awayfrom the mountains have allowed the irrigation ofhuge areas for intensive farming. The downside of thishuman thirst for water has been the slow drainage ofthe provnce´snatural reservoirs, the wetlands.

The wetland or swamp, has a bad reputation that isundeserved. It is an epicenter for wildlife. It providesfood and materials for all. Its eco-system stores highlevels of carbon dioxide. Its watery habitat createslife itself at a primeval level. The wetland also plays afundamental role in controlling floods and droughts,acting as a giant sponge. For example, US engineers said

mismanagement of the wetlands was the underlyingcause of the flooding of New Orleans in 2005.Over the past century, approximately 60% of wetlandsareas worldwide have been lost. In the city of Ramsar inIran, in 1971, the first worldwide wetland conventiontook place, setting out basic guidelines for authorities,environmentalists and educators.

The Wetland Foundation works restoring andpreserving and promoting the so-called Ramsar sites.Argentina is bestowed with a good proportion ofRamsar approved wetland areas, including SouthAmerica’s two largest aquatic bird habitats; the MarChiquito (‘little sea’) in Cordoba and Lake LLancaneloin southern Mendoza.

LLancanelo means green spearhead in the localHuarpe language as such is the colour and shape ofthe lake when viewed from the higher ground of thesurrounding stunted volcanic hills. The 60,000 he ctarenature reserve is home to an estimated population of150,000 birds of which there are 165 different speciesincluding flamingos and 10 types of duck. However inrecent years water levels have dropped drastically andin 2014 the lake briefly dried-out. Its delicate ec osystemis threatened by oil drilling and cattle ranching andinvasive plant species like tropical plant Tamarindhave infiltrated the surrounding soil.

At Mendoza’s other Ramsar site the problems areeven more urgent. For over 50 years, the GuanacacheLakes, in the Lavalle district to the north of thecapital, have been starved of water. The reservecovers a phenomenal area of 340,000ha in Mendoza,240,000ha in San Juan province to the North andalmost 400,000ha in San Luis to the East. Thefull name is correspondingly the Guanacache (aHuarpe indian word meaning ‘man who admiresthe descending water’), Desaguadero (‘water outlet’)and Bebedero (‘watering hole’) Lakes. The lakes aresupposed to be fed by the Mendoza and San Juanrivers but the dams and irrigation infrastructurehave changed everything.

The story of the wetlands is the history of Mendozaitself. The Huarpe Indians lived here. They fishedand hunted and built houses, b oats and baskets. Theyfound clay for pottery and planted corn. They tradedwith tribes from the North and South. The p opulationgrew. Sudden change came in 1480AD with the theInca occupation. The northerners had masteredirrigation and agriculture on the steep slopes up anddown the whole mountain range. Water channelson the gentle slopes were easily dug and the firstirrigation system was put in place, diverting riverwater from its path towards the lowlands to irrigateprincipally pumpkin, corn and quinoa. Llamas wereintroduced and their wool made better clothing forfurther exploring the mountains.

The Lost Lakes of Mendoza

Ben Shirley wades into thedisappearing wetlands ofMendoza province.es

LlancanelloCredits:

commons.wikimedia.org

GuanacacheCredits: Diario Los Andes

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In 1560BC the Spanish arrived and in their wakemissionaries, soldiers and explorers. Originally theEuropeans worked alongside the Huarpes, copyingtheir techniques and expanding farming and fishing.200 years later they had taken control and populatedthe land. The lakes were intensively fished and theland was intensively farmed. Agriculture consumedthe water. Construction and the railways consume d theoak forests surrounding the lakes. By 1950 the waterstopped reaching the lakes. In the 1820s a law waspassed essentially outlawing the independent Indians,stating that every man, woman and child required a‘patron’. Another law from this era encouraged thedraining, drying out and development of water-loggedland. Like the lakes, the Huarpes began to fade fromhistory.

In recent years there has been a mild revival inHuarpe culture. The authorities have built schools andinfrastructure for the dozen or more communities and

the 6000 remaining inhabitants. An annual festival isorganised called the Fiesta of the Lakes of the Virginof Rosario (the Spanish name for the wetlands). It is areligious folk festival with asado and typical dishesin abundance, wine and music. Church services andprocessions form part of a three-day-long throng.

If you are in Mendoza and have the time for a uniqueadventure, visit Lake LLancanelo for a demanding

Guanacache& Llancanelo

wetlands

GuanacacheCredits: caminosculturales.com.ar

specialist eco-tourism adventure. The lake is 500kmsouth of Mendoza city, near the mountain town ofMalargue. Or, for a taste of Huarpe culture go toGuanacache lakes and wetlands 35km to the east ofthe city.

HuarpesCredits: porpueblosoriginarios.blogspot.com.ar

LlancaneloCredits: mendoza.travel

The lake is 500km south

of Mendoza city, near the

mountain town of Malargue.

Or, for a taste of Huarpe

culture go to Guanacache lakesand wetlands 35km to the east

of the city.

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Mendoza nowadays may be famous forits wine lodges, but it was a water lodgethat first put it on the discerning tourist’smap. Emilie Giraud takes a peek intothe Grand Hotel Villavicencio and itsimpressive nature reserve. A thirty-minute drive north of Mendoza City, on theold mountain road that leads to Chile, you’ll find anabandoned mansion in a lush green oasis. This Swissstyle pile was once a hotel and spa that catered for therich and famous and now is the iconic symbol on thelabel of one of Argentina’s most popular mineraI watersuppliers – Villavicencio.

Yet Villavicencio is not just a high-end bottling plantwith an accidental and improbable hotel added on.It is also a splendid natural park of 72,000 hectares,where guanacos wander like herds of sheep anddesert fox approach you shyly. Condor soar above

and armadillos scuttle in the sand. The road itself is amajestic rise through desert, rock, abandoned silvermines and petrified forests and offers some of the moststunning views and scariest falls. Known as the Roadof 360 Curves, it is the more adventurous way to reachUspallata on the way to Chile and on one such highturn you can even spot the icy tip of Aconcagua peak.

The name itself comes from Joseph Villavicencio, amysterious captain from the Canary Islands and firstmigrant to build a house in the area in 1680, at theexact same place where the abandoned hotel nowstands. Water in Mendoza is gold, and Villavicenciowas blessed to have both gold mines and water springswhich made it a much coveted place.

Archaeologists think that the area was alreadyinhabited 12,000 years ago by tribes of hunter-gatherers from pre-Huarpe communities who wouldcamp around water springs, hunt guanacos, nandusand hares and harvest the fruits of the carob-tree. Inthe aftermath of the colonial foundation of Mendozain 1561, the Jesuits dug for silver and gold in what wasone of the first mines in the country in the area ofParamillos, 12kms from the actual hotel.

Villavicencio is literally criss-crossed by ArgentinianHistory. From 1561 to 1891, it was the main roadbetween Buenos Aires and Santiago and since 1817,part of San Martin Route, that celebrates the campaignfor Independence. At the entrance to the Reserve,the Monument Canota commemorates the historicalmoment in 1817 when two columns of General SanMartin’s Andes army separated before crossing intoChile to liberate the Andes. This division was crucial inSan Martin’s ingenious military plan to fool the Spanishtroops and start the Freedom Campaign that would leadto the independence of the continent from colonialdomination.

Villavicencio

A Luxury Watering Hole

VillavicencioSites of interest in Villavicencio Reserva

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The bottling of water started in 1903. Three Frenchmen,with a local pharmacist and doctor attributed curativepowers to the crystal clear water that was rich incalcium and potassium and started to sell it in smallglass bottles in Mendoza’s Pharmacies. In 1923, DonAngel Velaz created the Society Termas de Villavicencioand made the water business successful by solving theissue of water transportation to Mendoza with theinstallation of an aqueduct. He also created the icon ofthe brand with the construction of the Hotel Termas deVillavicencio in 1940.

World War II had burst out in Europe, and like the restof the Argentinian high class, Velaz couldn’t make it toFrance for his annual thermal baths routine. Rumourssay that the hotel was born from his urge to cure hishemorrhoids. What is sure is that the hotel was in spiredby his travels to Europe and mainly to Evian.

The hotel was constructed in the same time periodas many Peronist social hotels like Chapadmalal, but

contrary to them, the resort was managed privatelyand catered to a very elitist clientele seeking rest andcure during the summer. Built in less than 6 months,the hotel is not exactly the Titanic of the Andes oneexpects to see. It is rather an austere Norman stylebuilding, with its typical red-brick inclined roof andimmaculate white walls incrusted by crosses of darkwood that gives it a grave look. Apart from the warmthof some murals and paintings, the inside part is austereand the furniture is mainly rustic. The lamps weremade of cart wheels and the bedheads were made ofiron bedheads.

Upon their arrival, people would check-in and unde rgoa medical diagnosis before settling into one of the30 rooms with private bathroom and thermal waterin which they would enjoy their treatment duringextended vacations. But not only was Villavicenciothe holiday haven of cherry-picked members of theArgentinian elite. Its terrace and the superb viewit offered were a must go destination for the localbourgeoisie. They would go for the day to drink tea,be mesmerized by the landscape, take a bath andeventually bring home some of the precious liquid.

Behind the shutters that nowadays hide the interiors ofthe hotel, one can imagine the buzz of the dining room,the swirls in the ball room, the idle chat of gentlemenqueuing at the barber´s, the outrageous show-offelegance of some ladies walking in the gardens, orthe bustle of the staff as they try to make the best ofeveryone´s stay.

The terraced gardens were designed by the son ofCarlos Thays, the creator of gigantic Park GeneralSan Martin. The grounds were planted with exoticEuropean trees, garden ponds and pathways thatinvited further exploration. Of course there was alsothe obligatory tennis court and mini golf course. Apartfrom providing their host with hydro therapy, thehotel also promoted a healthy lifestyle inviting peopleto eat well and exercise, without forgetting their moralelevation – an Andean health farm if you like.

The glorious era of

Villavicencio Thermal Hotel

Credits : Danone Group

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The spouse of Velaz and her devoted friends werepreoccupied with the salvation of local’s souls. Remotefrom any parish, the ladies had noted that manycouples working in the area were not married nor theirchildren baptized and that many hotel residents wouldsimply not attend mass because of the distance.A year after the opening, in 1941, a little chapel with atraditional cane roof was erected. This is nowadays theonly place you can visit inside. The n eo-colonial churchby architect Ramos Correas houses an impressive altarwhich displays the last supper by Horacio Cruz.Unfortunately under Velaz´s management, the hotelwas never profitable. It was opened all year long whentourism was very seasonal. It relied on expensive powergenerators for electricity and the staff was a whopping90 people to attend only 60 guests.

The same water that was the reason for its existencecaused the premature death of the hotel. The richquantity of mineral slowly blocked up the plumbing

and finally lead to the closure of the hotel in 1970.The scarcity of hotels in Mendoza for the 1978 WorldCup saw its brief re-opening to accommodate theforeign press corp. In the same year, the Grupo Greco,had planned to restore and extend the hotel to makeit economically viable, but after less than a year ofmanagement the group went bankrupt and was takenover by the military dictatorship. After 12 years of state

Since the year 2000, Villavicencio has officially been recognized as a Natural Park but the area has beenconsidered of archaeological, botanical and geological interest for centuries. Charles Darwin, on a side trip fromhis famous voyage on the Beagle, spent two days in Villavicencio in 1835 where he discovered a fossilized forestof Araucarias. It was close to here that he also noticed sea fossils 3000 meters above sea level and the germ of thetheory of evolution was planted in his mind.

Nowadays, the Danone Group and the 4 park rangerswho manage this unique private reserve are registeringits incredible fauna and flora. Here are some plantsand animals you can spot at different altitudes of the

reserve, some of which can be observed in the reserve’ssmall museum, a few meters from the hotel.

NATURALBEAUTY

control and minimal maintenance, the place and theplant were bought by the Cartelone group who restoredpart of the gardens but quickly dismissed any chanceof re-opening the hotel as the investment required wasjust too high.

In 1999 the French multinational Danone bought thehotel and its 72,000 hectares reserve. The fantasyof reopening the sleeping hotel has already beenabandoned by the new owners, but there are plans torenovate the facade and to create a museum inside.

EL MONTE : 700 m to 1200 m above sea levelFlora : Carob-tree, Jarilla, ChañarFauna : Mara, Fox, Guinea Pig, Choique, Nandu

EL CARDONAL : 1200 m to 2700 maslFlora : CactusFauna : wildcats, Thrush, Mora Eagle

LA PUNA : 2700 m to 3300 maslFlora : Artemisia, Stipa, EphedraFauna : Guanaco, puma, condor, Gauch

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 Potions

Emilie Giraud leafs through the medicinalplants found in Mendoza´s Mountains

Local

The Jarilla

The Jarilla is the most emblematicindigenous plant in Mendoza.

Celebrated for its distinctive aroma,it even has its own day on the 10th ofNovember. The low bush grows in dry,sandy, desert soil and has a small leafand white and yellow flower. Its resinacts as a sun protector and reduceswater evaporation, making the plantparticularly suitable for the dry andhot weather.

Pleasantly aromatic and very easy toignite, its wood is nowadays muchpraised by the traditional ArgentinianSunday asador (bbq man). It is not rareto see a branch of jarilla hanging inthe shower of local houses to perfumethe atmosphere.

Traditionally Jarrilla was usedfor rituals and is still considered apowerful, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory plant. If you get lostin the mountain, the Jarilla can alsoserve you as a natural compass as thefront of its leaves are oriented towardthe east and the back side to the west

Pulmonaria or “hierba del paño “

With large and hairy, cotton-likeleaves, the Pulmonaria grows a 2 meterfloral stem of yellow and compactflowers.

Considered by Andean mountainclimbers as emergency toilet paper, itis also a good medicine for the lungs.People use it to relieve bronchitis andasthma.

Its leaves and flowers must beprepared in tea to best take advantageof its healing power.

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Rosa mosqueta Native from Europe, you can findthe wild Rosa in Argentina andChile and especially in the lowerAndes.

Resistant to many diseases, thisrose doesn’t require fertile soil togrow and has expanded so muchthat some consider it an invasiveweed which unbalances the localhabitat. However it has great skinreparation properties.

Avoid its raw fruits and sharpthorns. In Mendoza, people use itsfruit to make jam and herbal tea.Mosqueta’s seed oil is the perfect

anti-ageing cream as it is nutritive,regenerative, and can heal scars.

Artemisia Mendozana / Ajenjo

Its silver color makes the Artemisiavery recognizable and it is foundon the the rocky and sunny sides ofthe mountain.

It borrows its name from theflamboyant hunting greek goddess,Artemisa means physical integrityand great health and is noted forits feminine qualities. Indeed, apartfrom being a useful ingredientfor liquor and serranos, the ajenjofacilitates menstruation and helpsdigestion.

Used on the skin, it has an anti-inflammatory effect and anantiseptic action.

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WISHLIST

BIUTIFUL - MAAL WINES - 51967 bottlesLocated in the heart of Chacras de Coria,MAAL Wines produce Malbecs fromdifferent regions. The grapes for Biutifulare sourced from San Carlos, Uco Valleyat 1250 m.a.s..l and the wine is producedwithout additives, is unoaked, andfermented in old concrete tanks withindigenous yeasts. On the nose you’ll findcherries and spices.. In the mouth it has amedium body and is fresh.

5 CINQ BRENNAN FIRTH CEPASELEGIDAS - 2916 bottlesBrennan Firth has mastered an exquisiteblend of 30% Merlot 20% CabernetSauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and10% Petit Verdot from three differentterroirs located in Vista Flores, Agrelo andLa Consulta. Fermented with native yeasts,un-refined and unfiltered, this remarkablewine has spent 22 months in barrel. It´s anexplosion of aromas and flavours such ascranberry, plum, violet and spices.

 TUCUMEN RESERVA MALBEC 2012BUDEGUER - 18277 bottlesTucumen Malbec blends Malbec froma young vineyard in la Consulta UcoValley and from a 80 year-old vineyardfrom Agrelo, Lujan de Cuyo. Aged 12months in French and American oak,it achieves a tasty balance betweenfruitiness and oakiness. Exhaling thetypical aromas of Malbec like plums andviolet flowers, it has smooth tanninsand good acidity.

PULENTA 2011 – Gran Cabernet FrancA classical Cabernet Franc from topwinery Pulenta Estate winery is perfect

for the beginning of autumn. Aged 18months in new oak barrel, this veryelegant wine has elegant notes of roastedpepper, eucalyptus and spices. In themouth it is perfectly balanced, roundedand silky.

CAELUM RESERVA 2012 FIANO2012 - 1000 bottlesCaelum winery is one of the very few toproduce Fiano outside the south of Italywere it is originally from. The grapes aresourced from 4 year-old vines plantedin Agrelo. The wine didn’t undergo anymalolactic fermentation which gives ita refreshing acidity. Aged 12 months inbarrel, it is unctuous and lingers in yourpalate.

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MATIAS DOWN TOWNVictorian style decor and multiple ales to choose from isenough to soothe the nostalgia of any barfly foreigners.Downtown Matias is part of a successful beer chain startingin Buenos Aires in 1973 and now with bars as far as SanMartin de los Andes in Patagonia. Mendoza’s version is rightin the heart of beer street and ideal for a sidewalk stop-off orsome serious high stool imbibing inside. Aristides 198.

ANTARES BARAristides street would not be very complete without its ownmicro-brewery bar. Antares is the real deal and a pioneerin this respect with bars located across the country sincebefore it became trendy to brew your own grog. Its longbar displays tempting casks of great quality beers such asScottish ale and Irish stout. This expansive bar packs themin at night and serves decent pub grub too. Antares Bar.Aristides 153.

BLACK SHEEPJust off the Alameda strip, the Black Sheep is an American-style sports bar with big screen TVs and decent bar foodlike nachos, homemade burgers and hot and spicy chickenwings. While especially popular during sports matches, TheBlack Sheep is one of the few bars to stay open everydayfrom 12 till 4am so you can grab a pint whenever you like!Maipu 131, Mendoza (261) 561 4283.

BELIEVE IRISH PUBOne of the few bars in Mendoza with a bar counter andhigh stools to prop yourself up on. Kelly, the English part-owner/pub-mascot is almost always there to share a chatand a smile with the crowd; which is most likely a factorin its notable popularity among expats and travelers. On

the menu is a great collection of draught beers, bottledbeers (try the Warsteiner) and surprisingly decent pubgrub. TV screens hang in every corner airing hit music-video montages or football games. Monday night isInternational night and for their packed events DJ’s rockthe house. Colon and España 241. Tel. 261-429-5567. www.believeirishpub.com.ar

TAVERNA BEER HALLIn the heart of Chacras de Coria, nestled i n an old brick winery,Taverna is a cool industrial like beer hall with a vintagetouch. It is the ideal place to gather with friends or minglewith the locals around its big tables. Cosmopolitan music, adiverse wine and beer selection and tasty snacks includingsalads, pizzas, quesadillas, nachos and waffles, makes it a newtrendy option to shake up Mendocinian nightlife. Open fromThursday to Saturday from 7 pm to 2 am. Happy hours 7 pm- 10 pm. Viamonte 4961, Chacras de Coria - 0261 496-6161 .

BARSINSIDE MENDOZA CITYThe list below has s ome great bars but if you’re looking to browse, head to Aristides VillanuevaAvenue, the nightlife strip of Mendoza. It’s a c ontinuation of Ave. Colon and is simply referredto as Aristides by the locals. Pubs, bars, restaurants and shops cram together from Belgrano toSan Martin Park to provide you with ample bar options. G et your shut-eye before a night outbecause the clubs don’t even get started until 2am, and call a taxi because they are all locatedout of the city in Chacras or El Challao.

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 Anna BistroAnna Bistro has been an importantrestaurant on Mendoza’s food scenesince it opened 8 years ago, howeverthat doesn’t stop it from renovatingitself each year. This year Jerome andhis team have started smoking theirown salmon and cheese to add a bitmore flavour to some dishes and youcan try the rich salmon on deliciousbrioche and go the whole hog witha pot of delicious steaming, garlickyprawns. Along with a handful ofsalmon dishes there are a host ofdifferent foods on the menu includingclassic steak, rich lamb, creamy pastasand lots of lighter options including bigsalads, sharing platters and vegetarian

dishes. While lunch and dinner is stillits main game, the beautiful gardensand restaurant are open for breakfastfrom 8am offering unending treatsfrom their own French patisserieand the late afternoon is perfectfor sipping your way through theextensive cocktail list or take yourpick from the arm long wine list. Av.Juan B. Justo 161 Tel: (261) 425 1818.Everyday 8am till late. Avg. meal cost:$190 pesos.

Josefina RestóThe trendy, cosmopolitan internationalcooking experience Josefina Restó is anisland of elegance on hectic AristidesStreet. The building is a playful mix ofthe urbane and the natural. The warmthof vintage style drawings adorning thewalls are illuminated through large,handsome street windows.Such an abundance of natural lightmakes for a peaceful, illuminated lunch.After work hours, you´re welcometo pop up for some gourmet tapasaccompanied with a rotating selectionof by-the-glass wine. At sunset, athoughtful combination of candle andindustrial light bulbs will put you inthe mood for a fine dinner. The food iseclectic, seasonal, and very personal - afusion of Ana’s mum traditional recipesand of her own international cookingexperience. Don’t miss the Goat and its

sweet red pepper pasta accompaniedwith clay-oven grilledvegetables and itsparsley sauce! www.josefinaresto.com.ar Aristides Villanueva 165, Mendoza5500, Argentina - Tel. 261 4233531

Terruño - Club TapizTucked away among the sprawlingMaipu vineyards lies Club Tapiz Resortand its lovely restaurant Terruño.This handsome eatery boasts anelegant interior, excellent service anda wine list that is sure to please eventhe most finicky of wine snobs. Their

chef compiles a tantalising menu thatincludes top notch lomo steaks, arotating range of salads and a savoryginger/honey chicken dish that issecond to none. If you like what yousee and taste, book a room in one oftheir seven Renaissance-style villas.Don’t forget to call ahead for dinnerreservations! Ruta 60 s/n 5517 Maipú.AR$ 220. Tel: (261) 496 0131. tapiz.com.Lunch, everyday, 12pm - 3pm. Dinner,Sun - Thurs, 8pm-11pm, Fri & Sat until12am. Avg. meal cost: $385 pesos.

Finca AgostinoElegance, history and the perfectmarriage of food and wine is whatyou’ll experience by dining at therestaurant of Finca Agostino winery.Ancient vines with stems as thickas tree trunks look in upon a lightfilled, stylish interior with enoughspace to dance a tango. The overallvibe is polished and handsome. Thefood is equally majestic - 5 courses ofwell thought, imaginative dishes thatare paired exquisitely with all thewineries wines - often explained anddescribed by the chef Sergio Guardia.The menu is seasonal with much ofthe ingredients freshly picked fromthe property’s organic vegetablegarden and orchard. Creamy pumpkinsoup was the starter when I dinedthere and the main course a choicebetween prime beef or Mendoza kidgoat. If you have time make sure totake a tour of the property whichincludes an art gallery and replicaplaza of Plaza España in Mendoza city.Cookery classes are available whereyou get to pick your own ingredientsand prepare and cook bread on anopen fire, empanadas, humitas andasado. Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu.tel 2615249358. Avg. meal price $400pesos. www.fincaagostino.com

DINING OUT

La PatronaThis cosy Mendocino restaurant has acasual, rustic charm about it. A colourfulhub of activity on a quiet street, Patronaattracts a crowd full of locals every nightof the week who come for the honest,traditional Argentine food and friendlyand warm atmosphere. Classic disheslike the hearty empanadas and sizzlingasado are worthy and popular fare butthe real star here is Patrona’s warm,open sandwiches We recommend theartichoke hearts and goats cheese;roasted vegetables with white wine andhoney; or the more traditional pick ofrich glands cooked in lemon. A decentwine list and some satisfying dessertscomplete the gastronomy experience

but the key to Patrona is the cosy waythat they really make you feel at home.Mi casa es Patrona casa! 9 de Julio 656.Tel: (261) 4291057. Mon to Sat: 12.30pm- 3.30pm and 8.30pm - close. Avg. mealcost: $150/(including starter, main dish,dessert+a glass of wine)

Grill QLocated in the elegant Park Hyatt, GrillQ serves up traditional regional cuisineat a five star level. Sit back in the chicparilla style restaurant amongst thecowhides and local artwork, pick fromone of the many Mendocinean wines,make your order and watch the chefsat work in the open kitchen. They arefamous for their grilled meats and

gigantic empanadas, and serve heartyArgentine classics such as ‘locro’ - astew which hails back to the earlyindependence days. Save room forthe stunning desserts. The Hyatt’sother restaurant, Bistro M, offers amore gourmet evening menu andthe most exuberant ‘lunch menu’ intown. With a gorgeous buffet spreadof starters like squid and basil stew,crispy calamari with cool gazpacho andmezze style tapas, you’ll need to bringyour stretchy waistbands to fit in thehearty and flavourful main optionsand the sumptuous dessert buffet ontop. Put aside an hour or two for thistempting lunch or make your way herein the evening to try the Mediterranean

inspired dishes including deliciouspasta, fresh fish and some great cutsof meat. Chile 1124. (261) 441 1225.Avg. meal Grill Q $250 pesos. BistroM Executive Menu $280 with starterbuffet, main course, dessert buffet andglass of wine.

El MercaditoWith an attractive fairy lit patio andterrace outside, this is the perfect spotfor some lunch time sunshine or alfresco dining. Run by three friends,El Mercadito has a cool vibe andrelaxed music making it a favorite.Opened recently by three friends,El Mercadito is offering something alittle bit different to Mendoza. With acool vibe, relaxed music and attractivewaiting staff, this is quickly becominga favorite hot spot for a coffee, bite toeat or evening cocktails. Opening inthe morning for healthy breakfasts andantioxidant juices, El Mercadito staysopen throughout the siesta with its lightmenu of sandwiches, big salads andsome Argentine classic meals. Chowdown to big healthy salads like the‘Langoustine’ with huge juicy prawns,fresh avocado and green leaves or tuckinto one of their big toasted sandwicheslike smoked salmon and cream cheese,or jamon crudo and arugula servedwith chunky chips and homemadeBBQ sauce. As the sun goes down makesure to try out one of their yummystrawberry mojitos! El Mercadito,Aristides Villanueva 521, (261) 4638847.Avg. meal price: $ 150. Chacras de Coria:Viamonte 4961, te: 4962267.

Effe CucinaEffe Cucina is the closed-door restaurant ofchef, interior designer, and globetrotterFlorencia Previtera. This bubbly andtalented Mendocina studied in atop Chilean gastronomy school andtraveled Europe for ten years from

kitchen to kitchen before she decidedto get back to her roots and set up herown project. At weekends she turns herkitchen into a laboratory of flavors andher stylish living room into an intimatedining space. Her refined cooking hasa home-made touch and she uses high-quality seasonal products in quantitiesthat won’t let you starve. Make sureto try her 5-step menu. Ours includeda simple and delicious bruschetta ofdried tomato, black olives, ricotta andherbs. This was followed by a mini-quiche of bacon and bittersweet sauce,pappardelle pasta with gambas andcooked tomato cherry. The main coursewas classic filet mignon with Malbecand green peas cream. Dessert was a

succulent chocolate sponge cake withcranberry sauce and lemon cream. Effeopens from Friday to Sunday and islocated a few blocks away from the citycenter. Reservations required. Cellphone/ Whatsapp: +5492612370023.Facebook : Effe cucina

La MarchigianaAs the first Italian restaurant inMendoza, La Marchigiana has plentyof history and traditional recipes towhet any nonna`s appetite. MariaTeresa Corradini de Barbera`s familyrestaurant started off with only sixhearty Italian dishes but has growninto a popular local fixture which isalways busy despite its curious lack ofambience. The pasta is the best thinghere, maintaining original recipesfrom over 60 years ago; we recommendthe huge stuffed ravioli. Check outthe Brad Pitt photo for celebritycredentials. La Marchigiana, PatriciasMendocinas 1550. (261) 4230751. Avg.meal price: $170

Los Negritos

Anna Bistro

OUTSIDE CITY CENTER

MENDOZA CITY

Club Tapiz

 Josefna Restó

Ee Cucina

Los NegritosRight in the middle of Las Vegas (inPotrerillos, 80kms from Mendoza)this restaurant stems from a story of afamily who came to live in here one ofthe first weekend houses constructedin the area. They named their home‘los negritos’ a nickname of theirtwo young children. Many yearslater, one of the ‘negritos’ (Enrique)decided to leave the bustle of thecity, moved to the mountains andopened a restaurant with his wife ,in Las Vegas. The restaurant serveslunch and dinner every weekend andon public holidays and the cuisine isflavourful and typically Argentinewith stews (such as Tomaticán and

mondongo) milanesas, humita andhomemade pasta - many of therecipes used are old family recipes.The restaurant has been recognizedas part of the ‘gastronomical route’and is noted for its quality of cooking,architecture and landscape.Avg: $135.Los Olmos ST, Las Vegas, Potrerillos.(261)155697431. bodegonlosnegritos@gmail.com. Fri to Sun and holidays.From 12pm to 4 pm / GPS: S 33013370- W 69272293

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Restaurant

Lodging

Driving time from Mendoza City

Art Gallery

LOCATIONS REFERENCESREFERENCES

Luján de Cuyo

Maipú

Mendoza City

San Martín

Valle de Uco

Carmelo PattiMendoza’s most famous garagista.Carmelo Patti himself is often thereto show you around (in Spanish). Fav.Wine: Cabernet Sauvignon from thebarrel. (0261) 498 1379. San Martin2614, Luján de Cuyo.

Familia CassoneA charming, family owned wineryin a beautiful setting. Try the jasminetinted rosé amidst the pastoralsplendour of the owner’s expansivegarden. Anchorena y Terrada. (261)424 6301.www.familiacassone.com.ar

Ruca MalenExcellent food, great guiding andfirst-class wines. The pairings overlunch make for an unforgettableculinary experience. (0261) 5537164- 2614540974. R.N.7, Km 1059,Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegarucamalen.com

DeceroAttractive, modern facility withspectacular views of the mountainsfrom the cozy tasting room. (0261) 5244748. Bajo las Cumbres 9003, Agrelo,Luján de Cuyo. www.decero.com

VistalbaTasting room where one entire wallis a subterranean cross section of theactual vineyard clay, roots and rocks.Fab restaurant. (0261) 498 9400. RoqueSaenz Peña 3135, Vistalba. www.carlospulentawines

Achaval FerrerModern boutique close to Mendozariverbed. Big concentrated wines.(0261) 488 1131. Cobos 2601, Perdriel,Lujan de Cuyo. www.achaval-ferrer.com

DoliumA completely underground winerywith innovative design and top notchMalbecs. (0261) 490 0190. R.P.15, Km30 s/n, Agrelo. www.dolium.com

Terrazas de los AndesThe fine wine sister of ChandonArgentina is a beautifully restoredbodega with well-appointed tastingroom. Fav. Wine: Cheval de los Andes.(0261) 488 0704/5. Thames andCochabamba, Perdriel, Luján de Cuyo.www.terrazasdelosandes.com

Clos de ChacrasCharming boutique operation withnice history. A five minute walk fromChacras plaza. Fav. Wine: Gran Estirpe.(0261) 496 1285/155 792706. MonteLibano s/n, Luján de Cuyo. www.closdechacras.com.ar

Luigi BoscaThe Arizu dynasty are the royal familyof Argentine wine and their seat ofoperations is a handsome and elegant110-year old winery. (0261) 498 1974.San Martin 2044, Mayor Drummond,Luján de Cuyo. www.luigibosca.com.ar

RenacerThis Chilean-owned winery createsthe label Punto Final. Small, modernoperation with tour that includes ahands-on lesson in blending. Brandsen1863, Lujan de Cuyo. 261-524-4416 or261-524-4417. www.bodegarenacer.com.ar

KaikenThis rustic 80 year-old winery houses anew venture by the prestigious Chileanwinery Montes. Big and powerfulwines, destined for fame. TEL (0261)4761111-14 INT 113 / Movile (0261-153530 789) /Movile (0261-155 509 453)

Catena ZapataShowcase winery designed like a Mayantemple overlooking vineyards and theAndes Mountains. Rich, complex wines.(0261) 413 1100. Cobos s/n, Luján deCuyo. www.catenawines.com

Alta VistaMasterful mix of modern andtraditional. Tasting includesdistinctive Torrontes or singlevineyard Malbecs. (0261) 496 4684.Álzaga 3972, Chacras de Coria, Lujande Cuyo. www.altavistawines.com

THE WINERY GUIDE

Nieto SenetinerLocated in a beautiful old winery inChacras, Senetiner was founded in1888 and makes a great range of winesand sparkling wines. (261) 496 9099,Guardia Vieja S/N, Vistalba, Lujan deCuyo. www.nietosenetiner.com.ar

MelipalGreat Malbec and gourmet lunchesmake Melipal one of the mostexclusive wineries to visit. (0261)4790202. R.N.7, 1056km, Agrelo, Lujánde Cuyo. www.bodegamelipal.com.ar

MendelAn old style winery ran by one of

Argentina’s most famous winemakerdynasties the De La Motta family.(0261) 524 1621. Terrada 1863, MayorDrummond, Lujan de Cuyo. www.mendel.com.ar

Viña CobosAmerican winemaker Paul Hobbswas one of the first to recognisethe possibilities of Malbec and hisBramare label is possibly one of thebest examples of this varietal. (0261)479 0130. R.N. 7, Lujan de Cuyo.www.vinacobos.com

TapizGreat wine lodge Club Tapiz, high-endrestaurant Terruño and an instructivewine tour including barrel andbottle tasting. (0261) 490 0202. RutaProvincial 15, Km 32. Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.tapiz.com

Belasco de BaquedanoGleaming modern facility withfascinating aroma room andrestaurant with Andean view. (0261)

524 7864. Cobos 8260, Lujan de Cuyo.www.belascomalbec.com

CruzatA boutique traditional sparkling wineproducer with gorgeous bubbles thatcan be enjoyed from their terraceoverlooking vines. (261) 5242290,Costa Flores, s/n, Perdriel, www.bodegacruzat.com

Dante RobinoFounded in 1920, an atmospheric old-style winery with a modernist, light-filled tasting room with excellentview of mountains and vines.(0261) 488 7229 Ext. #2. CallejónMaldonado 240, Perdriel. www.bodegadanterobino.com

SeptimaA beautifully designed winery withclear views of the mountains and alarge terrace used for sunset wineevents after 6.30pm on Thursdays.(261) 498 9550, Ruta 7, 6.5km, Lujan deCuyo. www.bodegaseptima.com

AlpamantaExemplary biodynamic vineyard setin the rustic splendor of Ugarteche.Ideal for families and nature lovers.Calle Cobos s/n. tel 0261 153468398.www.alpamanta.com

Pulenta EstateCool minimalist design and richcomplex wines make this a winerywith finesse and style. Fav. Wine:Cabernet Franc. (0261) 155 076426.Ruta 86, Km 6.5. Lujan de Cuyo.www.pulentaestate.com

NortonOld-style cellars contrast with a high-tech production line. Tank and barreltastings,and jug fillings on Thursdaysare popular with the locals. (0261) 4909700. R.P.15, Km 23.5. Perdriel.Luján deCuyo. www.norton.com.ar

Benegas LynchRich history and richer wines. Lovelyold bodega with lots of character. Fav.Wine: Cabernet Franc. (0261) 4960794. Ruta 60. Cruz de Piedra. www.bodegabenegas.com

CaelumModern, medium size winery on themain road to Chile just before themountains and has a nice family feelto it. Fav. Wine: Fiano (261)156992890.R.N.7 km 1060, Agrelo. www.bodegacaelum.com.ar

TrapicheArgentina’s biggest winery is a mix ofold and new, traditional and industrial,and has the old train tracks leadingup to it. (0261) 520 7666. Mitre s/n.Coquimbito, Maipú. www.trapiche.com.ar

El EnemigoOne of Argentina’s most talentedwinemakers Alejandro Vigilopens the door to this colorful and

unconventional boutique operation.Boisterous, gourmet lunches offered.Videla Aranda 7008, Maipu. Tel.261697 4213

Finca AgostinoElegant and picturesque winery withancient vines and walled orchard.Offer superb lunches and cookeryclasses.Carril Barrancas 10590, Maipu. Tel.2615249358. www.fincaagostino.com

MAIPÚ

LUJAN DE CUYO

Kaiken

Senetiner

ChandonThe original foreign investor, French-owned Chandon has been makinggreat sparkling wines in Mendozasince the 1960s. (0261) 490 9968. R.P.15,Km 29, Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. www.bodegaschandon.com.ar

Dominio del PlataArgentina´s most famous femalewinemaker Susana Balbo is creatingsome rich and complex wines inthe heart of Agrelo. (0261) 498 9200.Cochabamba 7801 Agrelo, Luján deCuyo. www.dominiodelplata.com.ar

LagardeOwner of the oldest white wine inSouth America. Try the hand-craftedsparkling wine made from 100 yearold vines. (0261) 498 0011 Ext. 27.San Martin 1745, Mayor Drummond.Luján de Cuyo. www.lagarde.com.ar

CasarenaA beautiful mix of old and new, thiswinery mixes tradition and modernityin an old style winery with a supermodern restaurant with splendid viewsof the vineyarsd and mountains.Brandsen 505, Perdriel. www.casarena.com.Tel 2616967848.

Ojo de VinoA modern winery in Agrelo. Thewinery restaurant Ojo de Agua, hasa delighful setting next to a vineyardlake.Bajo Las Cumbres S/N. Agrelo. Tel2615731688. hospitality@ojodevino.com

Don Manuel VillafaneModern winery in the wide openvineyards of southern Maipu.Intense, complex wines. Artexhibition all year long.Ruta 60 s/n, Rodeo del Medio. Maipu.Tel. 2615083067. www.dmvwines.com

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Trivento Located in the bucolic splendour ofsouthern Maipu, Trivento is ownedby the Chilean Concha y Toro. Thismodern winery has a beautifuldeck set amidst the vineyards andoffers bicycle excursions within theproperty. Ruta 60 y Canal Pescara,5517 Maipú, Mendoza. Tel: 0261 4137196. www.trivento.com

BudeguerModern-style Budeguer wineryoffers you the chance to blendwine and art in a warm and relaxedatmosphere. Its superb terrace is openuntil 8pm and is the perfe ct spot to sipa glass of Malbec enjoying the sunset.Reservations required at turismo@budeguer.com or +549261 6830749-www.budeguer.com R.P.N.15 Km 31,5Agrelo, Luján de Cuyo. Mendoza.

Ruca Malen

Chandon

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THE WINERY GUIDE

Familia Di TommassoOfficially the second oldest winery inMendoza and still run by Argentinehands. Their charming and rusticrestaurant looks onto the vineyard,just two steps away. (0261) 524 1829.Urquiza 8136, Russell, Maipú. www.familiaditommaso.com

Familia ZuccardiA professional, far-sighted operation.Attractive restaurant amidst thevines, famous for its asado-stylelunches and generous wine pourings.(0261) 441 0000. R.P. 33, Km 7.5,Maipú. www.familiazuccardi.com

Cepas ElegidasMaking real ‘vinos de autor’, US born

Brennan Firth makes his limitedproduction wines in a small wineryin Maipu. Exclusive and ultra highend wines, a visit and tasting is withthe winemaker himself. To visit CepasElegidas, call Brennan on (0261) 467 1015.

AMP CavaPremium wines made from differentterroirs but all by renowned winemakerKarim Mussi Saffie. Technical tastingsand a close proximity to the citymake it a recommended visit. GómezAdriano 3602. Coquimbito. Maipú - (261)4813201/4668048

Rutini / La RuralWell-stocked museum withinvaluable antiques like cowhidewine presses and buckets. Giant oak

tanks stand in large, cavernous halls.(0261) 497 2013 Ext.125. Montecaseros2625, Coquimbito, Maipú. www.bodegalarural.com.ar

CecchinA family winery using organic andbiodynamic principles where you cansee the entire process from the beautifulgreen vineyards to the minimalintervention winery. (261) 497 6707, MASaez 626, Maipu, www.bodegacecchin.com.ar

CarinaeSmall, charming, French-owned wineryoffering personal tours and well-honedwines. Surrounded by vineyards andolive trees. (0261) 499 0470. Videla Aranda2899, Cruz de Piedra, Maipú .www.carinaevinos.com

Tempus AlbaA fine modern winery set in the rurallanes of southern Maipu. The rooftopterrace overlooks the vineyard. (0261) 4813501. Perito Moreno 572, Maipú. www.tempusalba.com

LopezPopular, old-style winery with twomuseums on the wine. Restaurantoffers gourmet cuisine with a panoramicview. (0261) 497 6554. Ozamis 375, GralGutiérrez, Maipú. www.bodegaslopez.com.ar.Facebook/Bodegas Lopez Oficial

AndelunaThe old-world style tasting room looksupon dramatic views of vineyardsagainst mountains. (02622) 423 226Ext 113.R.P. 89, Km 11, Gualtallary,Tupungato. www. andeluna.com

AtamisqueThis Uco winery has some great whitewines, a unique stony roof and theybreed their own trout which is servedin the charming restaurant.(0261)156 855184. R.P. 86 (Km 30), San Jose,Tupungato. www.atamisque.com

La AzulSimple, small production winery with notso simple Malbecs and a small traditionalrestaurant. (02622) 423 593.R.P 89 s/n.Agua Amarga, Tupungato. www.bodegalaazul.com

SalenteinDesigned like a temple to wine, this ultra-concept winery includes a modern artgallery, lodge, and chapel set high in theAndean valley. (02622) 429 500.R.P 89 s/n,Tunuyan. www.killkasalentein.com

O. FournierMost architecturally innovative winerywith rich, concentrated wines. Excellentlunches in the modernist visitor center.(02622) 451 088. Los Indios s/n, La Consulta,San Carlos. www.ofournier.com

Gimenez RiiliA brand new family run affair, part of theexciting Vines of Mendoza project. Thisis a modern winery in a stunning setting.0261-156317105/ 0261-153470392 - Ruta94 (s/n), Tunuyán. www.gimenezriili.com

Bodega MasiFascinating Italian job in the heart ofTupungato with commanding viewsand commanding wines, especiially theAmarone inspired varietals and unusualblends. Tel. (0261) 156539573. www.masitupungato.com

Domaine BousquetAnother French transplant to theAndean foothills of Valle de Uco, thissizeable operation produces high altitudeChardonnay, Merlot and Malbec andnow has a popular restaurant servingexcellent tasting menu lunches. Ruta89. Tupungato. www.domainebousquet.com Tel 2615274048

The Vines of MendozaBest described as a cooperative of winelovers around the World who haveall bought a vineyard plot each in UcoValley and are making their own winein a central winery with experts suchas Santiago Achaval overseeing. Add tothis a fabulous 5-star hotel and FrancisMallman restaurant and Uco Valley willnever be the same again.Ruta 94, Tunuyan. Tel 261 461 3900

DiamandesModern, imposing winery withmagnificent wines, part of prestigiousFrench group Clos de los Siete. Calle SilvaS/N. Vistaflores. Tel. 0261 4760695.

Finca SopheniaModern, high tech winery in stunninglocation. High quality wines overseen byMatias Michellini. www.sophenia.com.ar Tel. 02622-154-45622

VALLE DE UCO

Diamandes

USEFUL INFORMATIONAIRPORT Tel: 5206000 Accesso Norte s/n. El Plumerillo. SHIPPING WINE Ordinary post will not ship wine and a courier can cost at least U$ 30 a bottle. The mosteconomical way is send it with your checked luggage in a special styrofoam wine box, available at most wine stores or at Trout & Wine, Espejo 266.  CRIME Be alert.Mendoza does have crime. Hold on to purses on the street and at restaurants. Avoid carrying valuables. Hostel lockers are not safe. Danger spots: bus terminal andinternet cafes. BIKE TOURS IN MAIPU  The most economical way to do a wine tour in Mendoza. Take bus (171, 172 or 173) from Catamarca and Rioja to Urquizastreet (see below) where you’ll find several bike rental companies. Some are notorious for dodgy bikes. Check and double check you get a good mount as a puncturecan cause a mini nightmare. Head south, as north of Maipu is urban and not pretty. RECOMMENDED WINERIES Rutini, Tempus Alba, Di Tommasso, Carinae andcertainly Trapiche. When returning have a late lunch at the excellent Casa de Campo. NIGHTCLUBS In most nightclubs you have to queue twice for a drink whichcan get slightly exasperating as the night wears on. It is wise to buy several drink tickets at once for an easy, unimpeded flow of alcohol. Bathrooms are usually illequiped so bring your own toilet paper. Many nightclubs are 200 light years away in Chacras which can cause problems getting home. Clubs rarely get going before2am. MENDOZA EXPATS CLUB An organization which enables Expatriates to meet each other. www.mendozaexpats.org. HAIR DRESSER English speaking andeccentric hairdresser Haisley will do your hairdo right. Paso de los Andes 997 (esq. Julio Roca), tel (261) 641 6047. CHANGING DOLLARS - “Cambio, cambio” shout thearbolitos (money changers) outside Galeria Tonsa (San Martin 1173), the place to go if you want the best street rate. Larger denomination notes are preferred. To makesure you are not getting ripped off check the current rate of the “dolár informal” on www.ambito.com. The Mendoza rate is generally 30 centavos less.

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