Woven Fabric Structure (1)Woven Fabric Structure (1)Plain and TwillPlain and Twill

Dr. Jimmy LamDr. Jimmy Lam

Institute of Textiles & ClothingInstitute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning ObjectivesLearning Objectives

What is woven structure?What is woven structure? Fabric properties of plain weave;Fabric properties of plain weave; Fabric properties of twill weave;Fabric properties of twill weave;

Woven StructureWoven Structure

Apart from the fabric density (warp and weft per inch); yarn Apart from the fabric density (warp and weft per inch); yarn count; selvedge and fabric weight, woven structure plays an count; selvedge and fabric weight, woven structure plays an important role in fabric quality.important role in fabric quality.

The manner in which groups of warp yarns are raised by the harness to permit insertion of the weft yarn determines the pattern of weave is called woven structure.

Weave pattern (woven structure) affects the fabric durability and appearance.

There are THREE basic weaves used for the majority of fabrics and they are :1) Plain; 2) Twill and 3) Satin structure

1) Plain Weave1) Plain Weave

Plain WeavePlain Weave

Plain weave is the simplest and most used weave.Plain weave is the simplest and most used weave. It found in a wide range of fabrics such as gauze, It found in a wide range of fabrics such as gauze,

gingham, taffeta, poplin and canvas.gingham, taffeta, poplin and canvas. Plain weave fabrics require only TWO hardness Plain weave fabrics require only TWO hardness

because the weave repeats every two ends (1/1)because the weave repeats every two ends (1/1) Fabric with a plain weave is reversible (face and back Fabric with a plain weave is reversible (face and back

are the same), unless one side is chosen as the face by are the same), unless one side is chosen as the face by finishing or printingfinishing or printing

Plain Weave

1/1 plain weave Plain weave on graph paper

Plain WeavePlain WeaveCharacteristicsCharacteristics

Plain weave fabric has firm construction. It wears well and Plain weave fabric has firm construction. It wears well and ravels less than other weaves.ravels less than other weaves.

It provides a good background for printed and embossed It provides a good background for printed and embossed design.design.

Plain weave tends to wrinkle more than other weaves.Plain weave tends to wrinkle more than other weaves. Frequently interlacing of plain weave (50% up and 50% Frequently interlacing of plain weave (50% up and 50%

down) does not allow yarns to relieve stress from the bent down) does not allow yarns to relieve stress from the bent fibres/yarns.fibres/yarns.

Plain weave fabric has lower tear strength than others Plain weave fabric has lower tear strength than others because when tearing a plain weave fabric, the yarn breaks because when tearing a plain weave fabric, the yarn breaks one at a time.one at a time.

Plain WeavePlain WeaveRibbed or Corded Plain weaveRibbed or Corded Plain weave

The ribbed or corded effect is caused by the The ribbed or corded effect is caused by the variations of plain weave.variations of plain weave.

The rib may be produced in the warp or weft by The rib may be produced in the warp or weft by alternating fine yarns with coarse yarns; or by alternating fine yarns with coarse yarns; or by single yarns with double yarns.single yarns with double yarns.

Warp ribbed fabrics are referred as corded effectWarp ribbed fabrics are referred as corded effect Weft ribbed effect is produced when the weft Weft ribbed effect is produced when the weft

yarns are thicker than warp weft.yarns are thicker than warp weft.

Ribbed Plain Fabric

Warp ribbed (corded) fabric, coarse warp yarn than weft yarn

Weft ribbed fabric, coarse weft yarn than warp yarn

Plain WeavePlain WeaveBasket and Hopsack WeaveBasket and Hopsack Weave

Basket weave is made by using groups of two or Basket weave is made by using groups of two or more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups more warp yarns interlacing as one yarn with groups of two or more weft yarns as one yarn.of two or more weft yarns as one yarn.

It is a decorative weave and most of them are made It is a decorative weave and most of them are made with low yarns per inch and with low twist yarns to with low yarns per inch and with low twist yarns to increase the weave effect.increase the weave effect.

This type of fabrics tends not to be durable and will This type of fabrics tends not to be durable and will easily shrink in washing.easily shrink in washing.

Two well-known basket weave structures are hopsack Two well-known basket weave structures are hopsack and Oxford. Oxford is 2 x 1 basket weaveand Oxford. Oxford is 2 x 1 basket weave

Plain Weave Derivate: Basket Weave

2 x 2 Basket Weave

Plain Weave Derivate: Basket Weave

2 x 2 Basket Weave

Plain Weave Derivate: Oxford Cloth

2 x 1 basket weave

2) Twill Weave2) Twill Weave

Twill WeaveTwill Weave

A distinct design for the twill weave is it form a A distinct design for the twill weave is it form a diagonal line.diagonal line.

In the right-hand twill, the diagonals run towards to the In the right-hand twill, the diagonals run towards to the right.right.

In the left-hand twill, the lines run towards to the left.In the left-hand twill, the lines run towards to the left. Although there is no advantage of one over the other, Although there is no advantage of one over the other,

the direction of the diagonal line can aid in recognition the direction of the diagonal line can aid in recognition of the face of the fabric.of the face of the fabric.

Denim, gabardine and chino are well-known twill Denim, gabardine and chino are well-known twill weave fabricsweave fabrics

Twill Weave: Right and left hand twill line

Balanced 2/2 Right-hand Twill Weave

Warp Face 2/1 Twill Weave

Twill Variations

Fabric A: 2/2 balanced twill

Fabric B:2/1 warp-faced twill

Fabric C:1/2 weft-faced twill

Twill Weave (II)Twill Weave (II) Twill weaves are named according to the number of hardness Twill weaves are named according to the number of hardness

required to make the design.required to make the design. The simplest twill weave is either ½ or 2/1 twill (three-leaf The simplest twill weave is either ½ or 2/1 twill (three-leaf

twill)twill) A 3/1 or 1/3 twill are called four-leaf twill.A 3/1 or 1/3 twill are called four-leaf twill. Twill weaves are classified as balanced or unbalanced according Twill weaves are classified as balanced or unbalanced according

to the number of warp and weft yarns are visible on the face of to the number of warp and weft yarns are visible on the face of fabric.fabric.

The balanced twill, e.g. 2/2 shows an equal number of warp and The balanced twill, e.g. 2/2 shows an equal number of warp and weft yarns in the design.weft yarns in the design.

Other twills are unbalanced (warp or weft face), which produces Other twills are unbalanced (warp or weft face), which produces a more obvious twill line and a more abrasion-resistant surfacea more obvious twill line and a more abrasion-resistant surface

Twill Weave (III)Twill Weave (III)

The diagonal line of twill fabric can be changed The diagonal line of twill fabric can be changed according to design.according to design.

In a twill weave, the succeeding warp yarn to the right In a twill weave, the succeeding warp yarn to the right has the corresponding interlacing one weft yarn higher, has the corresponding interlacing one weft yarn higher, the weave is 45 degree right hand twill.the weave is 45 degree right hand twill.

If the corresponding interlacing on the succeeding If the corresponding interlacing on the succeeding warp yarn is two weft yarns higher or lower, a 63 warp yarn is two weft yarns higher or lower, a 63 degree twill weave is produced.degree twill weave is produced.

Example of 2/1 right hand twill

Point PaperYarn interlacing

Degree of Twill Angle

Twill Weave (IV)Twill Weave (IV)

A fabric with a 45 degree twill weave has 45 A fabric with a 45 degree twill weave has 45 degree diagonal line only when the yarns per degree diagonal line only when the yarns per inch in the warp and the weft are the same.inch in the warp and the weft are the same.

Usually there are more yarns per inch in the Usually there are more yarns per inch in the warp, so that most 45 degree twill weaves have warp, so that most 45 degree twill weaves have diagonals of more than 45 degree.diagonals of more than 45 degree.

The steepness of the diagonal can indicate The steepness of the diagonal can indicate strength and durability in the fabric.strength and durability in the fabric.

DiscussionDiscussion

What is basket weave and why they are What is basket weave and why they are normally made by low twist yarns?normally made by low twist yarns?

Why plain weave is normally used for printed Why plain weave is normally used for printed fabric?fabric?

What are the fabric characteristics of twill What are the fabric characteristics of twill weave? What are balanced and unbalanced twill weave? What are balanced and unbalanced twill weaves?weaves?

DiscussionDiscussion

Other than by dyeing and printing, indicate Other than by dyeing and printing, indicate three ways by which a fabric woven with the three ways by which a fabric woven with the plain weave may be given added surface plain weave may be given added surface interest.interest.