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Summa%veAssessmentFashion

UnitGroup7

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ConceptSummary

Inspiredbythefashionindustryanditsinterac9onwithfeminismourproject

explorestherepressionandrestric9onofwomen.Exploringiden9ty,mental

healthandthewayfashionisincorporatedintosocietyourshootintendstoreflecttheconfiningnatureoffashionandofferarefreshingtransla9onof

fashionphotography.

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ClothingItems

Theclothesweweregiven

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ResearchHistorical,culturalandcontextual

Fashionfrom147

Wetookreferencesfromdifferenterastoshowa

progressionthroughfashionwhichalsoplayedakeyrolein

lookingattheconstraintsofwomenandthiswaswhereour

ideasforstylingalsocameintoplaywithtailoredshirtsand

9ghtclothing.

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157-158

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FemaleHysteria

Femalehysteriawasaonce-commonmedicaldiagnosis,madeexclusivelyinwomen,whichis

todaynolongerrecognizedbymodernmedicalauthori9esasamedicaldisorder.Itsdiagnosis

andtreatmentwererou9neformanyhundredsofyearsinWesternEurope.Hysteriawaswidely

discussedinthemedicalliteratureofthe1thcentury.Womenconsideredtobesufferingfromitexhibitedawidearrayofsymptomsincludingfaintness,nervousness,sexualdesire,insomnia,

fluidreten9on,heavinessinabdomen,musclespasm,shortnessofbreath,irritability,lossof

appe9teforfoodorsex,and"atendencytocausetrouble".

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OnthebasisofVictoriangenderdis9nc9ons,itwascommonforfemalepa9entstobe

diagnosedassufferingfromhysteria.1thcenturyupperandmiddleclasswomenwere

completelydependentontheirhusbandsandfathers,andtheirlivesrevolvedaroundtheirrole

asrespectabledaughter,housewife,andmother.Withsolilepower,control,and

independence,depression,anxiety,andstresswerecommonamongVictorianwomenstrugglingtocopewithasta9cexistenceunderthethumbofstrictgenderidealsandunyielding

patriarchy.Oneofthemainrestric9onsofwomenintheVictorianagewasthatofsocietys

viewthatmenweresuperiorandwomenwereoflesserstature.

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DuringthebeginningoftheVictorianerawomenwere

restrictedinmanyways.Howeverasthe1thcentury

progressedthingsstartedtochangeandwomenwerebreaking

free.Anumberofchangesweremadetothelegalstatusof

womeninthe1thcentury,especiallyconcerningmarriage

laws.Thefactthatfathersalwaysreceivedcustodyoftheir

children,leavingthemothercompletelywithoutanyrights,

slowlystartedtochange.TheCustodyofInfantsActin183

gavemothersofunblemishedcharacteraccesstotheirchildren

intheeventoflegalsepara9onordivorce,andtheMatrimonial

CausesActin1857gavewomenlimitedaccesstodivorce.In

1873theCustodyofInfantsActextendedaccesstochildrento

allwomenintheeventofsepara9onordivorce.In1878,a\er

anamendmenttotheMatrimonialCausesAct,womencould

secureasepara9ononthegroundsofcrueltyandclaim

custodyoftheirchildren.Magistratesevenauthorized

protec9onorderstowiveswhosehusbandshavebeenconvictedofaggravatedassault.Animportantchangewas

causedbyanamendmenttotheMarriedWomen'sProperty

Actin1884thatmadeawomannolongera'chael'butan

independentandseparateperson.ThroughtheGuardianshipof

InfantsActin1886,womencouldbemadethesoleguardianof

theirchildreniftheirhusbanddied.

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Whenlookingatclotheswewantedtousetheconstraintsofwomeninhistoryand

bringthemintoamoderncontext.Oneofthesewasthecrinolinewhichhas

detrimentaleffectsonthewomensbodies.Oneofthemainconsequencesofwearing

sucha9ghtcrinolinecorsetwasthatitgotso9ghttocreatethatthinlookforwomen,

thattheirorgansmovedandshuffledaroundwhicho\encausedillness.Heavy

dressesplacedontopofcrinolineswerealsoadangercausingbackproblemsinmany

womencripplingmany.

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FemaleclothingRestraints

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Forourmodelweknewwewantedastrongcharacterandsowedidntlook

formodeltypeswelookedfordancersandactorsandthereforesizedidnt

comeintothemaerotherthanfingintotheclothes.Howeverwedid

wantthemodelsfacetobestrongandalmostandrogynousinthatwe

wantedhertohaveacungjawlineandcheekboneswhichwecouldthenenhancethroughmakeupandstyling.Becausewewantedthemodeltolook

slightlyoddandalmosttwistedwithherposesweneededsomeonewho

couldmovetheirbodyindifferentwaysthatwouldlookabnormalandthisis

anotherreasontolookfordancersandnotstereotypicalmodels.

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Cas9ngandCharacteriza9on

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2ndModel

Hannahhadtherightlookinthatshe

hadquiteaboyishfigureandthis

fiedwithourandrogynoustheme.Howeverherfaceisratherroundand

preyandlackedinstructure,aswe

wantedsomeonewithastrongerjaw

lineandcheekbones.Wedidtest

shotswithHannahandwerepleased

withtheoutcomesoweputherasour

backupmodelandwerehappywith

thatdecision.

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1stModel

WechoseLillyasourmodelasshe

matchedourneedforcharismaandhas

alotofcharacter.Herstrongjawlineandquirkylooksareperfectforourconcept

asherfacialstructurecouldbeseenas

androgynous.Alsothepropor9onofher

body,havinglongarmsandashortbody,

isnottypicaloffashionmodelsandgives

aninteres9ngperspec9vetoposes.

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Foroursetdesignwehadtheideaofanambiguousspace,somewhereclosedin

andclaustrophobic.Thiswaythesetwouldemphasisetheeffectwewantedthe

modeltoportray;theeffectofbeingrestrictedbythesocialpressuresaroundher.

Weusedgreypaintpaintonthewallswithsandintogivethewallsa

concreteeffect.Ouroverallcolourpalletwasvaria9onsfromblacktowhite,we

decidedtokeepthesetgreysothattherewouldntbeanymajorclashes.We

alsochosetocoverthegroundwithar9ficialgrass.Wehadhopedthatthegrass

wouldanaslightbitofcontrastduetoitscolourtohelpimprovetheimagesbutduringpostproduc9onwefoundthatitwastoodistrac9ng,andduetothe

modelspaleskinitcausedthemodeltoglowgreen.

Thewallsthemselvesstartedwideandcametoapoint,thiswastocreatea

vanishingpointandmakeitlookalthoughoursetwasendless.Thiswastofitin

withtheideaofthesetbeingambiguous.

Weputgapsinthewallsandletlightshinethroughsothatwecouldplaywiththesilhoueeofthemodel.Theonlyotherligh9ngwastopligh9ngwhich

wasmadewithgapsintheboardsontheroofandfros9ng.Thelightsalllined

upandthecombina9onhelpedwiththeillusionofthevanishingpoint.

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SetDesignResearch

JewishMuseumBerlin

Lookingattheligh9ngandshapeofthe

corridor:

Itsshapeisreminiscentofa

warpedstarofDavid.Avoidan

emptyspaceabout66feettall,

sliceslinearlythroughtheen9re

building.Anirregularmatrixof

windowscutsallorienta9ons

acrossthebuildingsfaade.A

thinlayerofzinccoatsthe

buildingsexterior,whichwilloxidizeandturnbluishasit

weathers.

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Concretecorridors

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IrvinPennVshapedset

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ArtDirectorandphotographerRolfA.Jensen

chosetovisualizecompulsivedisordersina

fashionmanner.Beingabletotwistthe

perspec9veabit,hecreatedahigh-fashion

stylephotoshootwithhisteam.

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LookStudios

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RichardBurbridgeMaskPhotography

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Ligh9ngReferences

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Androgyny

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Make-upReferences

M d l

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Modelposes

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IfyouweretoworkonaFashionshootagain,how&whatwouldyou

change?

Jareth-

Duetothefactthatwebasedourconceptaroundthegarmentswe

weregivenitmeantwewereveryconstrictedwithinoutcrea9ve

thinking.Thiswaspar9allybecausethegarmentsweweregivenhad

verystrongcharacters.Intheendwedidntevengettouseto

garmentssoifIhadtoopportunitytodotheshootagainIwouldput

morethoughtintotheconceptbecauseIwouldntletmyselfbeso

constrictedbythegarmentsandletmycrea9veenergiesflow.Workingwithinagroup,howwouldyoumanageyourself/othersand

theproduc9ondifferently?

Jade-

Theoverallorganiza9onoftheprojectlackedclarityandstructure,

mee9ngsneededtobeplannedinadvanceandgivenasubject.This

thenfollowedbynotetakingtoconcludeandsolidifythedecisionsmadeinthemee9ng.Ithinkitwouldhavebeenmoreproduc9veifwe

allcarriedoutseparatetasksaswedidamajorityoftheworkall

togetherbutIthinkalotmorewouldhavegotdoneifwehad

individualsettasksandresearchtodo.

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Whataspectofyourshootproduc9onsdoyouneedtoreflectuponandwhy?

HazelThebuildingweekwasthemostproblema9c,lackofcommunica9onand

organiza9onmeantthatworkwasslowandwewerenotclearonwhatwe

wereaimingfor.Althoughthefinaloutcomewassuccessfulourworkwouldve

benefiedfrommoreresearchandconfidenceasourini9alideaswerevery

interes9nghoweverwechosetos9cktothegarmentsasourmaininspira9on.

WhathasbeenthemostsignificantchallengeontheUnit?

Annie:themostsignificantchallengewasthattheprojectwasinagroupandI

thinkasagroupweclashedwhenitcametohowdifferentmemberswanted

todothings,whichwouldhavesucceededinaindividualprojectbutitdidnt

workinateamenvironmentandthereforethingsdidntgetdoneasfastoras

wellastheyshouldhavedone.