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OAHU,HAWAII

050WORDS KIRK OWERS PHOTOS KIRK OWERS AND NATHAN SMITH

THE ALOHA SPIRIT LINGERS ON THE PACIFIC’S BUSIEST ISLAND WHERE HUGE WAVES, GORGEOUS SCENERY AND A BUSTLING CAPITAL SHAPE AN ECLECTIC MODERN PARADISE.

WELLINGTON

HAWAIILOS ANGELES

HONOLULU

NEW YORK

HALEIWA

OAHU

KAUAI

MOLOKAI

MAUI

HAWAII

LANAI

KAHOOLAWE

WAIKIKI

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Oh. Ah. Hoo... Just pronouncing the melodious pacific island name is an exotically charged experience. It’s not a big leap to imagine yourself supine beneath a palm tree, icy Mai-Tai in hand, slack-key guitar drifting in on a warm kona breeze. Maybe you’re lazing in a hibiscus-themed shirt contemplating a recklessly late surf at Banzai Pipeline. Or, to hell with it, more cocktails, dinner in Waikiki and bring on the hula girls. Oahu comfortably lives up to the tourist clichés. The water is warm and clear and palm trees stud the shoreline. Locals are friendly, supernaturally attractive and call out “aloha” (love) for all sorts of reasons. Waikiki is the hub for the generic package tourist and for that reason alone we suggest a base on the North Shore. Here volcanic mountains, water-spilling valleys and the most spectacular waves on earth surround. It’s scenic and laid back to the point of inversion. Once you tire of surf and sand, Honolulu and all the temptation of America’s 50th state is only an hour away.

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OAHU, HAWAIISLEEP

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Condominiums they call them in the US of A. They’re what you and I know as self-contained units and they’re the best value accommodation in Hawaii. Condos are more spacious than hotels and come with kitchens and laundries. You need to book in advance (see rental agents mentioned), often for a minimum of three days at a time. Perfect if you’re travelling in a group and plan to base yourself in the one area.Hotel prices vary wildly in Honolulu. The savvy traveller can score a sweet walk-in rate, even a free hire car (ring around and ask about the special deals). Once you leave the city accommodation options thin out. The North Shore is crawling with surfers in winter, especially December, and you’ll want to book ahead. Family run B&B’s are a great option for friendly local hospitality away from the tourist centres. Backpackers and camp grounds are available in limited areas for those on a budget.

KEIKI BEACH BUNGALOWSIdeally located right on the sand in the midst of the North Shore’s seven mile surf strip KBB offers a range of comfy bungalows. Most have kitchens, expansive ocean views, hammocks in the palm-studded yard and cable TV. Furnishings and fittings aren’t high tech but the prices are affordable and the atmosphere is in keeping with the North Shore experience: laid back. Managers Greg and Annie are friendly and full of good advice. $165-$235. 59-579 Ke Iki Road, Sunset Beach. Ph:868 638 8229. keikibeach.com

TURTLE BAY APARTMENTSTwo landscaped pools, ten tennis courts, two championship golf courses, multiple restaurants, shops, helicopters and five miles of beach front are just some of the recreational pleasures that await you at the Turtle Bay Resort. You can pimp as large as Diddy (some cottages come with a butler service) with tariffs to match, but you don’t have to. Privately owned condos can be found on the web for as little as $200 a night (vrbo.com/45692). Located close to the North Shore at: 57-091 Kamehameka Hwy, Kahuku. turtlebayresort.com

SHERTON MOANA SURFRIDERWith her elegant footings cooling in the Pacific Ocean right there on Waikiki Beach the “First lady of Waikiki” has set the standard in sophisticated lodgings in the Sandwich Islands since 1901. Period furnishings and architecture are spliced with modern fittings and services, matching the elegance of the past with the luxury of the present. The milling crowds of Waikiki are just outside the door but you may want just to hang by the pool and celebrate your good fortune. $250-$400 (with free hire car)greathawaiivacations.com

BACKPACKERS VACATION INN AND PLANTATION VILLAGEThis hostel is the best budget option on the North Shore with a history of looking after economical travellers from across the globe. They run a regular airport shuttle bus and offer private rooms and bungalows as well as cheap share accommodation. Also known as Foo’s after the legendary big wave surfer who managed the hostel. Perfect if you want to meet fellow travellers on the highway of life (and share a bathroom with them). $22- $250. 59-788 Kamehameha Highway, Haleiwa, Hawaii 96712. backpackers-hawaii.com

OHANA ISLANDER, WAIKIKISet slightly back from the sand the Ohana Islander offers clear views of central Waikiki. Throw open your curtains, pop a can of bud, crank up MTV and drink in the neon cityscape. That’s Diamond Head in the distance, bustling Kalakaua Avenue in the foreground and the sparkling pacific ocean to your right. It’s priced right and is well situated for a day or two of exploring Waikiki. $119-$279. 270 Lewers St, Honolulu. ohanahotels.com

NORTH SHORE HOUSE RENTALIf you’re travelling in a group, renting a house on the north shore is a great option. The area is considered

“country” and there are no major hotels (besides Turtle Bay) and only a handful of small condo-style rentals. Mellow and neon-free, it’s the very opposite of the Waikiki experience. Most beach houses have grass yards which tumble into the sand. Frangipani, hibiscus and palms provide shade and scent. See Sunsethomes.net or sterman.com

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OAHU, HAWAIIEAT / DRINK

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Seven million tourists visit Hawaii each year, an island state populated by a blend of over 25 ethnic groups. Both stats indicate a sensational variety and standard of food. World class chefs prepare lavish extravaganzas for moneyed patrons in ritzy Honolulu hotels. Down town, Portuguese patisseries, Vietnamese take-outs, Korean sushi joints and local seafood restaurants mingle with the ubiquitous fast food outlets. Outside the city the food is more localised. For a quintessential Hawaiian experience roll up to a lunch truck and throw down a plate of pan-fried shrimp or teriyaki chicken - simple, sustaining and delicious. Nightlife is fast and gaudy in the capital where temptations compete to empty your wallet. When night falls on the somnolent North Shore, it’s acoustic guitars on the back porch, the roar of the ocean, an eight pack of bud, a sky full of unfamiliar stars... or 78 screaming channels of cable TV.

HALEIWA JOE’S Haleiwa, a semi-hippy town at the entrance to the North Shore, has a good selection of cafes and eateries. Joe’s is the best up-market restaurant, specialising is super-fresh seafood from the harbour it overlooks. Traditional Hawaiian recipes blended with Asian influences (island fish steamed in ti leaves with sesame oil, fresh ginger cilantro and green onion) are the speciality, but thick juicy steaks share the menu. There’s also a bar which has live music on weekends

– ’round these parts, its banging. 66-001 Kamehameha Ave, Haleiwa.

CAFÉ HALEIWADon’t be put off by the shambolic exterior - this is the pick of breakfast joints on the surf coast. Walls are plastered with colourful surf art, tables are old-school formica and the general vibe is authentically North Shore, meaning it’s friendly and unpretentious. Popular with international surfers and locals (a good sign), all meals are tasty and filling. Try the Breakfast in a Barrel

- you won’t walk out of here hungry, Bubba. They also do good cheap burgers for lunch. 66-460 Kamehameha Ave, Haleiwa.

THE SURF SHACKThere are only a handful of eateries in the heart of the North Shore: Ted’s Bakery and the Sunset Diner are busy little takeouts dealing in burgers, chips and pastries. If you want a sit down meal, the shack is a great option (it’s the only option). While the menu is limited you can get a nice piece of mahi-mahi (fish) with beans and greens for under ten bucks. Excellent vego meals and health shakes are also available. Thongs are dressing up. Located opposite Rocky Point on the Kamehameha Hwy.

TURTLE BAYFor a selection of fine dining options close to the North Shore, Turtle Bay is the spot. Within the resort are three classy restaurants, a buffet eatery (Palm Terrace) an outdoor bar and grill (Hang Ten) and a late night boogie floor (Bay Club). Ola’s, an open air restaurant set on Bay View Beach is the pick of the bunch, offering an impressive array of Hawaiian and international cuisine. If you can’t get laid after splashing out on a night at Ola’s, you never will. 57-091 Kamehameha Highway, Oahu.

DUKE’S BAREFOOT BAR, WAIKIKIWhen I strolled in to Duke’s the sun was on the horizon and a big fat Polynesian leaned against most of the bar. He strummed a ukulele and sang happy-sounding songs with two of his big beefy buddies. I ordered a beer and looked around. Tourists stumbled in from the beach, couples sat down to dinner. The waitresses were fast and friendly. Cocktails with umbrellas littered the tables. It was busy but not too busy. You could see the surf. I liked it straightaway. Located ocean-side at the Moana Surf Rider Hotel, Waikiki.

WAIKIKI CLUBSIf you want to go “out” out, Wave is the pick of the clubs in Honolulu. It has live bands on weekends but plays a mix of a hip hop, dance, alternative and trance music most nights. This is not a cutting edge city club by any means but it’s big and popular. Pipeline is the other major club – it attracts a younger uni student crowd. Da Dawg House is a rocking little sports bar with cheap beer and loud hip hop. Honolulu, in general, seems more geared towards cocktails and sunsets, than clubs. Wave – 1877 Kalakua Ave.

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OAHU, HAWAIIPLAY

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Hawaiians were the world’s first surfers and wave-riding remains a big part of island life. Between November and March the North Shore is routinely pounded by huge, sculpted, high-performance waves. World championship events are held, professional surfers stay for months at a time, cameramen crowd the beach and excitement rents the air. Dangerous, dramatic and strictly for the experts, it makes for great viewing. Meanwhile, nearby breaks on the south shore are ideal for beginners. All water sports are big in Hawaii: the diving and snorkelling are excellent, sea-kayaking is taking off (especially off the jagged coast of Kaui) and wind-surfing, sailing and kite-boarding are all popular options. Inland, mountain-biking, hiking and horse-riding are cool ways to explore the undulating countryside. If you can island hop: the Big Island has the biggest, liveliest volcanoes (and ski-able snow in winter), Kauai is the greenest and least developed, Lani has the most exclusive resorts and Maui has stunning scenery and golf courses to make Greg Norman shed tears of joy.

HIKE THE DIAMONDDiamond Head, the dramatic volcanic mountain back-dropping Waikiki is such an obvious tourist destination it’s often overlooked. Hawaiians call it Leahi and built a temple on top for showy human sacrifices; more recently the US military tricked it up with tunnels, gun placements, bunkers and observations posts. If that doesn’t get you horny the view from the summit certainly will: east to Koko crater and the Koolau Mountains, west to glittering Honolulu and the beaches of Waikiki. Thirty minutes to the top, some tunnels, chance of meeting ex-army gun nuts on the way - high.

HONOLULU FIXHonolulu is the bustling ying to the peaceful North Shore’s yang. Waikiki is stacked to the sky with bars, restaurants and shops; downtown Honolulu has the old harbour, the art/student/redlight district around Chinatown and Iolani Palace, the USA’s only royal palace (former home of King Kalakaua). Things to buy include ukulele rip-offs and garish plastic cookie jars shaped like enormous waves which play Beach Boys medleys when you open them. It’s a kitsch and tacky town – don’t fight it.

DIVINGOahu has the best wreck diving in Hawaii. Directly off the coast of Waikiki Beach certified divers can explore the YO-257, a 110 foot navy vessel deliberately sunk to create an artificial reef. The North Shore has some great reefs and caves and beautiful clear water – but diving and snorkelling are only really possible in the summer months when the swell has backed off. The most spectacular diving, in terms of coral and marine life, happens on the Kona side of the Big Island.

LONGBOARD WAIKIKILegend has it when a naked gentleman and his lady friend surfed together in Ancient Hawaii it would often lead to joyous, uninhibited rumpy on the sand. Today surfing maintains some of that primal urgency and sex appeal aplenty. Want in? Waikiki on the island’s south shore is the perfect spot for beginners. You’ll see everyone from five-year-old boogie-boarders to 76-year-old granma’s from Ohio catching waves in out-rigger canoes, screaming, “outta my way, mudda humpers!” See the beach stands at Kuhio Beach Park for boards and lessons.

ISLAND HOPOahu will keep you busy but it’d be a shame to visit only one of the 322 reefs, atolls and isles that make up Hawaii. Each of the four major islands has something unique to offer, but Kauai and the Big Island are the pick of the bunch. Kauai because it’s velvety green and the least developed – Waimea Canyon and the dramatic Na Pali coastline are not to be missed. And the Big Island because it has the biggest, most active volcanoes and best diving. You can even snowboard on its biggest mountain, Mauna Kea, in winter.

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SUNSET BEACHA huge open ocean wave, Sunset can handle waves with over 20 foot faces (12 foot in surfspeak). It breaks way out to sea and resembles an avalanche of white water as it lurches towards the inside bowl where it barrels or shuts down... with conviction. Revered as one of surfing’s most challenging spots, it’s hard to appreciate from shore without binoculars.

The Waves (a spectators guide). Oahu has over 500 recognised surf spots. The best (biggest and most dangerous) are heaped together on a seven mile strip along The North Shore. Swells are often big in winter (Nov-March) and non-existent in summer (May-Aug). Below are the most famous spots. None are sign-posted – hire a bike in Haleiwa and ride the coastal bike track to best check them out.

ROCKY POINTRocky Point is a super-fun, high-performance wave suitable for experienced surfers of modest abilities. More a series of random peaks than a point break, it handles waves up to about six foot and breaks left and right. Rockies will be super-crowded most days unless you hit it early. It’s a great place to watch the world’s best surfers ripping it up.

PIPELINE/BACKDOORA perfectly cylindrical peak barrelling left (Pipe) and right (Backdoor) 20 metres from the sand – it’s impossible to get a wave here unless you are one of the sports elite. Spectacular viewing, especially during the Pipe Masters in December; its shallow, intense and very powerful, people die here. Tip: wave surges can drag unwary sunbathers to sea.

OFF THE WALLOTW is a wilder, less predictable version of Backdoor. It offers a long tube ride which too often ends in a shuddering, bone-snapping close-out in three inches of water over coral reef. If it was a ski run it wouldn’t be marked by a black diamond but with a security fence and a sign saying: Wrong Way, Go Back.

ROCK PILESNo one surfed here before legropes were invented and for a very good reason. It breaks in front of rocks. And not just any rocks – columns of coral rock which can spear out of the water when a wave drains past. The outside peak is a mountainous wedge which runs into a triple sucking inside section called, appropriately, Insanities. Don’t surf here. Don’t swim here. Don’t even wash your feet in the shore dump.

WAIMEA BAYThis legendary big wave spot handles thirty foot waves but it only breaks a handful of times a season. When it’s in full cry the roadside will be packed with cars and spectators gawping at the action. Ironically, it’s often one of the safest beaches to swim on the North Shore as it’s usually flat. NB: Always talk to the lifeguards before swimming.

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ALA WEI CHALLENGE CANOE FESTIVALPolynesians arrived on Hawaii, the most isolated island chain in the world, by paddling outrigger sea canoes – a gob-smacking feat of seamanship, endurance and navigation. The Ala Wai Challenge celebrates the achievement with canoe races and associated fanfare. It takes place the third Sunday in January along the Ala Wei canal in Waikiki.

ALOHA WEEKThe word “aloha” is most often used as a greeting but it means much more: it’s a mutual regard and affection which extends warmth with no obligation in return. It’s also a pseudo-spiritual belief (to hear what is not said, to see what cannot be seen and to know the unknowable) intrinsic to many Hawaiian’s way of life. Find out more at Aloha Week, a celebration of Hawaiian culture, happening throughout the islands in late September.

HAWAIIAN INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVALNow in its 25th year, the Louis Vuitton HIFF has become the biggest event on Hawaii’s cultural calendar. Over 200 films from across the globe will show this year and some 65,000 patrons are expected to attend the screenings, seminars and booze-ups. Begins on Oahu in mid November then tours the nearby islands. hiff.org

THE PIPE MASTERS – DECEMBERWith the possible exception of bull-fighters, boxers and extreme skiers, no sportsmen risk as much as Pipe surfers. The wave is a big, brutal, barrelling beast of a thing which breaks close to shore on a shallow coral reef. The biggest contest is the Pipe Masters, which often decides the world surfing title (it’s the last event of the surfing calendar, held in mid December). Seats on the sand are free. aspworldtour.com

Malia Jones is a Hawaiian surfer and model, born and bred as a Rocky Point local on the north shore of Oahu. When she’s not travelling between her second homes of Biarritz and Sydney, or designing her new swimwear range ‘malialuvsmambo’, she heads home for some quality time in paradise.

LOCAL HERO

SURFING ROCKY POINTAfter the mad rush of professional surfers have gone home from the winter months. The waves are just as good from february til april but half the crowd.

SHOPPING AT THE ALA MOANA CENTERI know it’s super girly, but Ala Moana has really good stores and lunch at Neiman Marcus makes the day complete.

RUNNING AROUND KEEANA POINTThis off road trail goes from Mokuleia on the north shore for three miles around to the west side of Oahu, a really beautiful run or hike along the ocean.

SHAVE ICEIn the afternoon at Aokis in Haleiwa, it’s really refreshing. It may sound like a weird combo, but try the li hing mui/raspberry /lilikoi all in one cone, with vanilla ice cream at the bottom. Sugar rush!

TEA TIME AT THE MOANA SURFRIDERIt’s a great way to spend the afternoon, watching people catch their very first waves out at Waikiki. Go for a tandem surf afterwards if you’re not too full.

DRINKING MAI TAISat the Royal Hawaiian Mai Tai bar in Waikiki and watching the hula dancers at the end of a day makes you realise why you love Hawaii.

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OAHU, HAWAIIREAD / WATCH / LISTEN

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READJames Michener’s Hawaii is a compelling work of historical fiction by a master story-teller. The Happy Isles of Oceania by travel writer Paul Theroux, traces the author’s journey throughout the Pacific Islands, eventually to Hawaii, and is full of strong insight, rumination and adventure (see also Hotel Honolulu by the same author). For guide books, The Lonely Planet series are highly recommended.

WATCHBlue Horizons is a sumptuously filmed surf doco which traces the divergent lives of two professional surfers, including the Hawaiian former world champ, Andy Irons. It gives a great insight into the sport and includes many spectacular Hawaiian waves. Blue Hawaii, starring Elvis Presley, is a corny 60s movie which sets the tone for much of the souvenirs still on display in Waikiki.

LISTENSpanish immigrants brought across the small guitars which became ukuleles, the centre piece of Hawaiian music. Slack-key guitar, a loose tuning technique used on steel guitars, is the other major sonic influence. Hawaiian tunes tend to be laid back, romantic ditties. Popular surf musician Jack Johnson (who lives and records on the North Shore) has blended traditional influences and modern beats with great success. KINE 105.1 FM is the local’s station and the best place to hear traditional and modern Hawaiian music.

KIRK OWERS IS A FREELANCE WRITER AND PHOTOGRAPHER BASED ON THE MID NORTH COAST. AS WELL AS CONTRIBUTING TO PAPERPLANE, HE IS THE FEATURES EDITOR FOR WAVES MAGAZINE.

PAPERPLANE WOULD LIKE TO THANK HAWAII TOURISM AUSTRALIA AND HAWAIIAN AIRLINES FOR THEIR ASSISTANCE. HAWAIIAN AIRLINES FLIES DIRECT FROM SYDNEY TO HONOLULU FOUR TIMES PER WEEK. HAWAIITOURISM.COM.AU HAWAIIANAIRLINES.COM.AU

OTHER USEFUL INFORMATIONIf you are traveling to USA on an Australian or NZ passport you may be entitled to travel up to 90 days without a visa, provided you have met all the requirements in the “Are you entitled to travel visa free to the USA” form and the traveller SIGNS IT. These forms are available from STA Travel.Electricity is 110/120 V and a two pronged plug is used - the same as the USA. There are few serious health concerns with travel to Hawaii - no malaria, cholera or yellow fever, however it’s best to consult the experts before traveling. And you can drink water directly from the tap. Hawaii has no land snakes but has its fair share of mosquitoes and centipedes which can give a nasty bite.

THE FACTSTHANKS TO STA TRAVEL

LOCATIONOahu is the third largest of the inhabited Hawaiian Islands, but home to nearly three quarters of the state’s residents.

TRANSPORTATIONMore so than any other Hawaiian Island, Oahu is easy to navigate. A complete selection of transportation options and a fairly simple highway system give visitors many choices. It just depends on what plans you have for exploration.If you’re staying in Waikiki and don’t intend to move much farther than the beach, you won’t need a car. If you’re staying on the north shore, hiring a car is often the easiest option.

CURRENCYAmerican Dollars USD$1 AUD = approximately $0.74 USD

APPROXIMATE AIRFARESSTA Travel offers direct flights from Sydney to Honolulu and flights via Sydney, Auckland or Nadi from all other capitals. Return fares start at $998 plus taxes ex Sydney.

CLIMATE/BEST TIME TO GOYou can travel year round to Oahu, though the best weather is often found in April, May, September and October. These are also the months when you can find some good travel bargains.The busiest tourist season is December to February. June to October is the “hottest” period but is still pleasant. Rainfall is heaviest between December and March, but not so heavy as to be a concern. If you wait a while the sun will come out and you will be rewarded with a glorious rainbow. Hotel prices are lowest between April and mid-December.