Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

71
higgest handyman disaster! . -- PURCELL ~UB BRA~ 919 NORTH 9TH 1 PURCELL, OK 73080 1

Transcript of Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

Page 1: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

higgest handyman disaster!

. - - PURCELL ~ U B B R A ~

919 NORTH 9TH 1 PURCELL, OK 73080 1

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/OW House w -

With fha Carey Brothers

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TIPS, FIXES & 61AD COB A TIOUBLC-CREE

Recover a chair seat I f you have upholstered &air seats that are stained, warn out or just p h ugly, there's no need ro call a pro. You can do a first-class upholstery job your&, if YOU ~ Y C WQ Don't: ww h u t d-

ing you ean c o r n hem by prying out &PI& and staaing ova.

l f t h e c b a i r L ~ y ~ , y o u m h p l y c c w % r ~ e &&g fabric with new mataid But it a d y

makes sense to tear off the old Uric and ~Iawtheloampadding,sinoemost~ hasalifespnafonlyheto 10yem.Maq Fabric sfares carry foam and upholstery bbric, but for the b e selection and advice, start with an upbohtery store (under *Upholstery FabricsP io the Yellow Pages). For a md chair like the one shown here,

p l ~ a o o s p ~ d n L M 1 1 0 0 n b O M , k n h g and Fabric, Yod ah need a can of spray adbe- she ($61, a sdssors, a shph and 5116-in. staph

Tun the chair upside down and remow the mews that fasfen the mt to the &air frame. Thea

tear off the old fabric with a pliers and pry out t)pe staples with a s m a I I ~ d r i w . I f t h e s e a t i s m a d e f r a m ~ e - board, you might fmd that it's warpad, cnunbling or even bmka Making a new seat is e a s ~ Just lay the old sear on a piece d In-in. pl- trace m u d it and cut a new mtwIth a jigsaw. Cu& the foam to size with a scissors. Take the wood seat

outside and give the topside a light coat of spray adhesive P o s i t i o n ~ s e a t ~ w h e n y o u ~ i t o n t h e f o a m ; ~ ~ adhesive grab bmntty and you may not be able to pull it oB. Cut h e W g and fabric ( P b w I). Stretch he bat- ting slightly as yon staph it into place (- 2). Staple t h e ~ r i c a t t k d d d e o f d €aursided;tindfXpcbe~t o w t~ make sure the pattern is c e n W II\rg the &ric tuwwd the comers as you stapIe the first slda Go to the op@e side and stretch the ibric a m the seat as p u stsple iP. Repeat &is process for the other two sides.

If $MU s a t hag rounded corners, you m wrap them so that no Mds or aeases are visr"ble From above (photo 3). If the seat has quare corners, aeasc a d fold h e Fabric as you would when p u @-wrap a box (Photo 4). It's usu- ally helpful to trim m y excess hbric as you work on m- ners. B e k you saw the m t onto the e, consider treating&ebb&wi&astainrepdemifitwaw'tmted

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15-minute fix

Faster flow for a slow-filling washer If y o u washing machine Nls with a slow ( trickle, you might need a W i e t &R (See "I 1 Quick and Easy Home Repaics* JulyIAug. '99, p. 40. To order a copy, see p. 7.) But chances are you have a simpler problem: plugged idet screens. These screens catch debris in h e water supply and protect a wail& ~~d pm Ohm, sneens dog after a remodeling project or after work by city crew on water mains. Any work on water lines

A can loosen sediment in pipes and lead tu plugged s c m m

Cleaning rhe screens is a simple job. The only Eri& p is removing ttlt saeem wirhout wrecking them (photo I). Don't just yank rhem out. Gently squ- and twist as you pull. You'll distort \ the screens a little, but you can mold them back into shape with your hgers.

If your screens are cemented in place by

I . mineral deposits, you may not be able to remove them without damage. A new pair of meem a mst a b u t $5 at m appliance parts

re.Qaw&egaeenswithmnnhgwateror

u may have to pick and scrape

-

Turn OH the hot and cold water supplies and disconnect the hoses. Use a pair of

needle-nosa pliers to q n t I v remove the I screens for cleaning.

2 Work the clean screen back into the inlet by pressing arouni the dm of the sueen with a small screwdriver. R~onnecr

the hoses, turn on tb water and check for leaks.

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a f ~ ~ P P Y faucet handle

I I f p u b a w a l o o s e d v e ~ ' I on a shower, batbroom or kitchen , faucet-tighten the screw that I holds the handle in p k . With I

same faucets, you'll haw to pry off the metal butroo ar the center of the b&. With oIbers, you'll h d a setscrew near the base of the handle. ~~ usually require a hex (or *Allenm) wrench. Lf tight- ening doesn't work, the stem inside the handle may be worn, especially if it's pIastic, Here's a trick to tighten worn stems on mast types of f a u m Wrap the stem tightly with Teflon pipe thread rape aod slip the handle W over the stem. In most mw a single wrap crates a snug fit.

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-neck the fuse

Burned-out holiday lights

Q I'm putting up my outdoor Some testers work by having you slide Christmas lights that I used last each bulb through a hole (photo 2). With

year. Half of the lights won't work. I orher testers, you simply touch each bulb know it's cheaper to just replace (photo s).You can test an entire strand in them, but I hate to throw them away. a few minut&, Sometimes you have two or Yet I also hate to pull out every bulb more defective bulbs, so only identifying to find the bad one. Any solutions? one bad bulb may not fix the problem.

Mike Koning, via e-mail Keep in mind that inexpensive strings

A of lights aren't durable. At the end of the

Judging by our mail, it seems that holiday season, take down the Iights with most of us have experienced the care. Don't pull too hard on the wires. A

Frustration of uncooperative holiday loose bulb, broken socket or frayed wire is lights, There's a simple way to solve the sometime all i t takes for the strand t problem. First, slide back the plastic cov- malfunction. edng on the plug to check the fuse (Photo After raking down the lights, plug them 3). Some strings have more than one fuse, in before storing them, to make sure they in which case they'll be next to each other. stdl work Then carefully wrap the lights Replace any blown fuses. New ones are in heir original or sirniIar containers, available where holiday Lights are sold and making sure the bulbs don't bang together. at some electronics stores. Proper storage is key to their continued

Second, test the bulbs with an inexpen- success. Wadding them up in a coil and sive tester (less than $lo), available where s t u k g them into a box dl h o s t guar- holiday lights are sold and online. UsualIy, antee they won't work next year. changing a problem bulb (or tightening ALso be aware that most holiday light it) will fu he entire strand. T h e tester will bulbs have short life qectancies, about & indicate which bulbs are bad and need to 1,000 to 1,500 hours. This means the k replaced. (For the tester to work, the ljghts are designed to last one to three sea- lights must be plugged into the electrid sons, depending an your usage. Newer outlet correcrly-the narrow "hot" blade styIe LED (light-emitting diode) lighw are into the narrow slot and the wide neutral the exception. They can last 10 times blade into the wide slot.) longer than traditional lights.

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kmePqoo Series kit containing , ,

t '- Dremel sides XPR

fexshaft Circle Cutter

Cutting Guide Lawn Mower and Garded , Tool Sharpener

55 Genuine Dreme Accessories

Deluxe Storage Gas, . XPR Planer and XPR 1 ' MulfiSaw atta~hments available separately

b n l y at Lowes j

R E A D E M Y S T E R Y P H O T O

Leaking roof

Q Our ceiling leaks under this section of roof whenever

we ave a severe rain and in the winter after heavy snowfalls. How do we stop it?

Rick Caville, Grand Rapids, MI

A %u're getting a double whammy &om poor flashing and ice dams.

The cllfprit is almmt certainly the soffit that meets the roof, which is one of the toughat areas to waterproof. In your photo, you can srill see signs of an ice dam. An ice dam occurs when snow melts and the water f r m when it hits the coIder edges of your roof. Eventually, water pools behind the dam and works its way back up under the shingles and under the sofit until it hinds an opening through your roof. The fact that you get Ieaks during w e r e rain also suggests a roof detailing problem.

Start with good flashing, since this should stop leab from rainfall and might stop the leaks from ice darns as well. b i n by removing the shingIes down to the wood sheathing and slip a

strip of adhesive ice-and-water barrier (available where roofing products are sold) under the sofitlmain roof joint. Depending on how the roofs join, you may have to cut a slot to work it in hr enough. It should overlap another piece of ice-and-water barrier laid below, all the way down to the roof edge. This should cover the most leak-prone areas. Then reshingle, sliding metal step flashing behind the fascia board (the trim behind the gutter). (See " C h e y Flashing," Oa. '03, p. 91, for a step flashing example, To order a copy, see p. 7.) The valley flashing, hid over the joint where the two rook meet, should overlap the step flashing at least 2 in.

If leaks continue to occur from ice dams, consider installing roof edge heat- ing cables. (Find them locally at, hardware stom or home centers, or type "heating cables" in an Internet search enginc) Improved attic insulation and ventilation are usually the best ways to prevent ice dams, but they might nor be effective in this complicated roof situation.

/DO you have a problem that's bugging you. a nagging

question or a mystery that you can photograph? Please sand k via e-rnail to askhandyman@roade~lgestestcom or mail i t to Ask The Family Handyman, 2915 Cornmars Drive, Suite 700, Eagan, MN 65127. Include your name, address and phone number. Although our editorial staff reads each one, we can't respond Individually.

DeCEMBERIJAilUARY 2000 THE FAMILY HAttDYHAU

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Too much -*c f n ~ w i m ~ I havea big prob Ism-with atatlc sl&trkHy. I hot W e r radiator heat and

rum ~ ~ g h ~ my IWusB* b there s better solution than putting a hurnidftw in wry mom?

b I L

s Onllhe Panel and get 5 01 aest prqects absolutely free! Log on to

www.familyhandyman.c~panel I

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Hardware honeycomb

L ooking for the night fastener will be like a bee going to nectar with this multi- pocket storage bucket. To make one, round up a plastic 5-gdon bucket ($3 at a ' home center) and scrap pIywood for partitions and floors. Use 314-in. plywood for r

the partitions and 114-in. plywood for the floors to match the bucket cutout dimensions shown.

Cut the bucket holes with a saber saw as shown, then saw the crisscrossing bottom par- titions with shghtly angled ends to fit snugly against the bucket sides. Saw notches halfway down the center of the partitions so they interlock. Next, cut the round floor to fit the bucket on top d the partition, then drop it in. Cut the next set of partition+ drop those

1 in and then add the next floor. Create the egg carton partition to fit on top and grew or nail it to the upper floor. Then load your bucket. Our system is daigned for miscella- neous screws and nails; feel free to try your own configuration to 6t pur needs.

Bucket loads of thanks to Patrick h c o x for this honey of a tip.

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a mot Auvnwrmaawam ~A~VH A~IWW SHL

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Y Snap lines d set the

in place

cornefands3X3pcMk ha. Mark the

' l o c a h of M-

I&=E: bwhdcsofhtaior

W l l ~ ~ ~ l ~ m ~ c o r r e a platcp&iou%-an o f p u r h ~ ~ r o ~ s m thewdsareptaUd,thea~ae~s a r e r t t t i g h t a q k d i h e ~ - &om match the p k Then mwweandnrtaiopdbot- t o m ~ h ~ ~ a s s b o w a

LEAKY OIL Unsightly globs, tptt by cars that

wwe nd wali mekrtaid.

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the'%ou& openingn (given on your plan or in the window litera- edges of 4x8 sheets of pIywmd dgn wilh h e centers of studs. ~ ) . ~ m and measure out to the left and right of the center Subwa 314 in. from the first layout mark. Then hook your lape on mark Write a "T" to the outside of both marks to indcate trim- a patidly driven nail at this mark, and nlark at each 16- or 244. mer locations. Measure over 1-1 12 in. and draw another line. multiple. Make an 'X" on the same side of each layout mark to indi- Mark an "X" outside these marks for the full-height king studs. cate the stud position. Mark studs that land between window or door

With the o w g s markd, lay out the stud Imtions (tfgm simmers with a "C" to indicate cripples rather than full-height snrds.

THE FAMILY HANDYMAN OECEMBERIJANUARY 2006 f # -

USED CAR PROBLEMS.

GM CERTIFIED OWNERS

TEND'TO FORGET

AT THEY ARE.

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P BUILT-UP

V C O U N E R MARK

CaIculate header I@ by adding 3 in. to the ruugh opening width. Add 6 in. to haden hat require two h e r s on eacb side. a header parts and naiI them togeth- er. label the headers. In many plan4 headers are psi-

tioned against the top plate. lfyour are, begin wall &Iy by @- tioning and i d k g these *fulI- lqbf'headers to the top p h e with 16d n& (top ri@t photo). Then lay fUII-lagth studs k w e e n the plates and nail. king studs to the headers md to th top d bottom plates (bottom rtglwt photo). Nd in all the fulf-height mds as vrell as corner a d t i e s . Note: Sight down a& stud before you mil if in mi orient aay bow (crown) up ward. Next install the trhmms (-m fieM).

I plate Set the p l a ~ side by side and trans- fer the marks h m the top p b to the b t b m piate using a quare. Some mrpenters mark only tbe edge of the p k We show m k - hg tbe wide hce, wI& d help p u a h g n ~ & T ~ t h e p i n of plam together with 8d nails after m w h g hem ia they don't get qamted and mixed with

' ofher plates. T h set rhm aside until you're mdy to build that waL

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grown-up ver - I. Fc

=qme looks, r., mlli

wrrq and designed i

ed doorb, cfown

Id tmll, own shakes. F

'- -'leal uaa, I t has twa --,..AS of 8helven to hhal~

oka and treasuras and

rge oablnets to hide an

sortment of stuff. 1 this artlcle will show eve1

thing you need to know to

butld this bookcase from thq bottom up. The six8 and elr- gance of this piece are decs tlw; don't assume it'a too bl,

or diiflcult fbr you-you may

be pleasantly surprised whm you look over the following pwes. You'll see how the

modular conatruetion makes

it buildable in a small work- shop and easy to disassemble and reassemble in your living mom or gwat room. You'll

so see that re am lots of

ut none of

THE FAMILY HmWMr

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P Overall dlmwrslons: 34-112" tall x 9&1/2" wlde (at crown) x 18-112" deep (at cabinel top)

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1 Glue and n d t o m a r three plywood d i n e t boxes 2 Assemble fhe door frsmttli with glue lRgure Al. Square each box by taking diagonal m e a r m and pocket screws. Glue and nail a 4.

mmts, then attach the back. Equal measurements means the plywood panel to the back of each frame. box Is squera. Edgsband the front wtth i r o h blrdr. Miter, glue and nail molding to the panel front,

TOOIS, money and time pm to the dimensions g i v e n h the fill large, deep hole). The filer will '

EW project consists mostly of quickIy Cutting List on p. 47. Before you e m b l e shrink as it dries, so you'll have to apply a a d k d plywood boxa and solid-wood rhe born, cover the h n t edges of the 314- second, skim coat after four hours. Sand h a The only fusg. steps are cutting in. plywood with iron-on wood edge the joints flush on both $idea of the doors d instalting the mimed moIdin&s that band. Also driII 1IPin. h o l ~ in the cabi- and lightly sand t h e plywood panels trim the doors, panels, base and crown. If net sides for adjustable sbelf supports. For before assembly with 180-grit sandpaper. p u have qerienee wih a table saw, a some tips on edge knding and driing Pasten the panels wi!h 112-in. brads. mim saw and a muler, yuu mn build this shelf support holes, m? "Storage Galore," b o o b . You'll also need one special tool Sept '05, p. 47. (To order a wpy, see p. 7.)

you haven't d pocket screws before, togerher with a brad d e r . Then drill donkwrry. You can learn to use them in 311 6-in. pilot holes and drive four 2-ia minutes. We mngly suggest you use a screws along each joint for strength. brad nder Father than damps to tack Fasten the backs wih 1JZin. brad nails. glued parts together. A brad d w is hs~er and acttidy cheaper than h -rtmm Easy, elegant doors of damps you would need Tor this projen The t o d materials bill for our cherry l k cabinet doors may look fancy, but

thefp're just solid w d frames with a ply- bwkcssewasforS13WmBui1~hma1erp mdpanddappedonthebackTh~hebase erph specS like this a p moldings surrounding the panel gke would hare a maI of about 5800' A thcw simple doon a rich look. Cut the similar piece of comparable quality would cost three h e s that much, or more, at a

solid d rails and stiles Mowing the

farnitwe store. +a to spend at k t 20 Cutting List and assemble them with

hours buildhg this book- and another pocket scmvs (photo 2). tf you haven't

10 hours W i n g i t used a pocket screw jig before, see "Using lbols: Feb. '03, p 23. (To arder a copy, see p. 7.) The p k e t screw holes will be visi- cabinet boxes ble on the back of door, so 6ll them

The three cabinets are simply b m made with a solvent-hd wood f le r such as h m 314-in. pJ;ywcMd with U4-in. ply- Plastic Waod (water-based fillers dry ere are two door sizes.: wood backs (Phota I). Cut the plywood dowly and can swell wood when used to

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3 lay tha cabinet boar on ks dda and center the &or agalnst k Mark hinp guidellnea on the door and Eablnet

udng a 2-114-in.-wide spacer block,

Center tb moudng plate templ8im on the cabhet gutdeline and ddU two 3132-In. pilot hdes for thu mourPt.

Ing plste. Screw the mounting plate to the aablnea

Mark the center point of the hinge hole 718 In. from the Snap ttse hinges onto the dmh edge using a homemade spacer jlg. Drill t ha hinge mourrting plates to make sure

hole wiih a l41Sin. Forstner bit Insort the hinge and screw it to tho door. doors by pulling the release lever.

Carefdiy center the pan& so sothey're 1- installation much easier. The best feature The template we 314 in. from the edges of the door hues ; of euro binges is that they're a d j j b l e : used (Photo 4)

this leaves ample space for mounting the To move the door up and down, left or im'i absoIutdy news- binges. Miter he moldings and install right or in and out, yon just turn adjust- m, but it will save you lots of them with glue and 1- 114-in. brads. ment screws. That means you dadt have f w y measuring and costs only $6, Throughout this project, use b wds spar- to spend hours sanding or plaoiag doors Our spacer jig (photo 6) is simply a block ingly. Drive only as many as it rakes to to get a perfect fit-The hinges we choselet of w d glued to a scrap of b a r d h a d draw glw joints tight. Fewer brads means you hang and remove doors in seconds by You'll have to buy a 1-318411. Fommer bit less time spent f d h g holes later. For some releasing a lever. ($18). Use a corded drill to bore the hinge tips on installing mitered moldings, see Choosing the right type of euro hinge holq most cordless models don't have the Edito3s Note, p. 44. for the job and poitiming the parts cor- enough power, Clamp down the door and

rectly an be confusing. But we've done dl hang on ti@ t to the drill; the bit might I Hi-tech hinges simplified the calculating for p u . II YOU rn h e b i d and lwisl the drill or h e door. stop

European hmges--also d e d "cup" or model we recommend [see the Materials drilling occasionally and insert the hinge : ' e m n hing-st less thangod-qdty List, p. 47) and follow the steps s h m to check the deprh of the h o l d you ' traditional hinges and make cabinet door here, yodIl End the pr- fmlpmoE bore roo deep, pu'U ruin the door.

91 DECLIMRCRIJANUARY 2008 THl F M l L Y HANDYMAN

L.

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- r 7 W 2 1 144n.-~lda g u b Mocks to ply- 8 Bulld the facades jw as you bullt the doors. Glue fb

~ t o m a l r e a p ~ l l g . ~ o n a ~ e p f h t m to the facades. Glue 1-112-in.-wlde t&iw of ply- blwrr and lock @&I pilaster In placia vrlW1 a -. wood t w d ~ a r to make L-cleats, and meh the cleats to the FhDltt#v~hthe~sMmwftha31&.br.oovebir. falpadw.

9 h b l l the base {ngure A). Then & the ~zlbinet boxes 10 Band three sldes of the plywood cabinet top with 314 on the baaa. Screw fhe facades to the slde boxes and x 314-In. solld wood. Cut a cove In the undemide of

screw the pilwters betworn bxea. Carefully posi- the banding with a touter. tion and scrsw the boxan to the base.

The three cabinet boxes are and h k e d by bur flat, prormdmg columns, or "pihttmn M h the pilasters using a 318-in. cove bit and simple jig that guides your router bit at the beginning and end of d cut (Photo 7) . To get perfed, sphter-he cow, rout the edges of each pilaser in two passes. Set rhe bit to a

depth of about 3116 in, Rout aII the en from inside the cabinet born (Photo pilasfer edges once, then set the bit to a 8). Glue two layers of 3N-in. plywod to 114-in. depth and make a h a l pass dong the backsidcs of the two middle pilasters each edge. that fit between cabinet boxes.

Next, bdd two had= m ccrver the sides of the MI and right cabinet boxes. The fiicades are mnstructed jus~ like the doors, wilh fi-ames, a plywood panel and mitered moIdings. Glue a pilasler to the front edge of each Eacade. Also add L-cleats to the back of the facades (photo

8). Space the rear cleat 3/4 in. from &e back edge of the facade. T h m dears allow you to attach the ficades with scm drjv-

Set the cabinets on the barn The base is simply a plywood platform covered on three sides with mitered base- board and base cap molding (~iaure A). Assemble the platform parts with brad nails and then add 2-in. screws for strength. You can use construction-grade

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grand bookcase

Frame on the underside of tha cablnH tap wlth two 12 A m b k shew boxes and dde framos following layers d 314-in. plywood. Then wrap three ddas d the Figure A Glue side framm to both end shelf boxes.

frame wIih mltered basa cap moldlng. Then install base cap molding lnslde the frarnw.

You have to renlovs the blade guard to make

these cuts. Keep hands end cloth in^ away 1 from

13 Rout 11Cin.-deep coves into both sides of the top 14 Cut the top rail to length so that the hasf pllaster pro- rails. Then cul a rabbet on the back by making two trudes about 1132 in. beyond the side of the shew

cuts with your table saw. box, Glue and nail the top rail ir'rto plaee followed by the half pilaster.

pIywood for the sides of the platform, but use finish-grade plywood for the lid, since the perimeter of the Ld will be visible. Make the baseboard from a 4-5/8-h,-wide board using the same cove bit you used on the pilasters, and use the same base cap molding that you used on the doors. Attach the base cap to the platform first, making it flush w i ~ h the lid. Then add the baseboard.

Set the base on furniture dollies ($20 each at home centers) or make your own dollies from plywood and casters ($3 each). Set the cabinet boxes on the base. Screw on the facades and join the boxes by screwing into the two other pilasters (photo 9). AU four pitasters protrude

1-114 in. from the cabinet boxes; cut a spacer block to help you position them. Gendy shift the whole cabinet assembly to center it on the base and then fasten each box to the base with four 1-518-in. screws.

The cabinet top is a slab of plywood banded with solid wood edging. Be sure to drive brads at the center of the band- ing. If you drive them too dose to the underside of the banding, you might hit them with your router bit when you cove the banding (Photo 'to). Next, glue and nail two layers of 314-in. plywood strips to the underside of the top to form a frame. The back of the frame is flush wirh the back of the top. The other three sides are inset 112 in. from the edge af the plywood.

The Frame acts as a deat, allowing you to screw the top in place from inside the cab- inet boxes, and provides backing for the base cap (Photo 11 1. This is the m e kind of molding that was used on the doors.

With the entire cabinet unit assembled, snap the doors onto their mounting plates and adjust the hinges If any doors Fit badly, trim &ern with a belt sander or shave them down slightly on the table saw. Label each door with its location and set them aside to avoid damage-

Shelf units To build the shelf units, you'll repeat the techniques you w d on the cabinets. The shelf units begin as plywood boxes (Photo

I DECEMBERIJANUARY 2008 TH@ FAMILY HhMIYMAH

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15 Set the ah& u n b an the cabinet top and position them, Fasten thsm to t)le cabinet unk

on the backskt8 udno metal strap. Position tha lower ends of the pilasters wfth a taw measure and fasten thsm with small brackets hidden inside the shell unlts.

12 and ngure A). Before assembly, drill holes for adjustable shelf supports just as you did with the cabinet boxes. There's no need to edge-band the shelf parts. They'll be mered When you asembIe he center A e I f k , keep screws at least 3-112 in. from the front of the box; that protruding part of the box will be exposed. Square the shelf boxes just as you did the cabinet boxes. To make the pilasters for the shelf

units, buiId a 47-112-in.-long version of the jig shown in Photo 7. You'll need four full phters and two hatf pilasters. The sides of the shelf units are uwered with frames. These frames are like the b c a h used on the cabinets, but without the 114- in. p b o o d panels. Instead, h e sheIf box sides act as panels. When you add the top rail and half pilaster (motom 13 a d 14),

allow the half pilaster to protrude slightly h m h e shelf unit's side. This makes it easier to create a Qbt joint between the side units and the middle shelf unit. The

middle shelf unit has no h e ; cover the h n t plywood edges witb two plasters and a top rail. #en the shelf units are ~rnplete, set

them kn place and flma them to the mb- hers bdow by suewing metal straps to the backs of he shelf units and cabinets. The sida of the shelf units may angIe inward or outward slightly, so check the positions of the pilas~ers with a tape measure (photo 18). Then anchor the shelf unit to the cabinet top with small brackets hidden behind each pilaster (photo abovm).

Top it all off with a crown The crown begins as a solid wood hm

Edimnm -tmikm This book- has a dozen door and side panels ttlat are I n d \wftfi molding. W n g moMIngs t d d a s - frame L slow work You m b one en4thm miter the other endsothe piam B a halr tua long, then shave that end again and again until tile molding fits just dght The pr- Is painwaking, but I have learned a iewMebtospsadupthejob: m DonWnwlng your saw h m left to

right a hundred timm Sat your saw46degrwsmt)Eslaftand roughat all *the pfaces, maklng them '114 In. tw long. 7hen sat your saw to the dgh and m tham to length Dm? ImUw with a tape measure. To mark the length of each piece, hold the mitered end in place and mark the other end wfth a s h t p pencil (photo above].

m U i m h t e miter saw guessulrork. Attach a flat scrap of plywood to the bed of your ssw and cut kerfs in it When you position a mallted piece for Wng, you'll know exactly where the blade wtll land +IO guaesing To attach the pqh woodI you mn drill holm Into the m e t a l ~ o r p ~ e t ) r e b a d and use doublefaeed cqmt tape.

joined with pocket saews (Flqnre c). GIue a board to the h n t of t h ~ s frame to cover h e protruding middle shelf unit (you'll need three damps that open at Ieast 6 in. to attach this part). Then build a plywood parapet around he perimeter of the kame to support the crown mold-

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I Disassemble for easier I finishing By removing a few dozen

I ~ v o u c a n ~ t h e ~ ~ l e book& apart in abour 10 minutes. LaM the parts to make reassembly d e r . Cherry an ahorb stain unevenly hr a blotchy appearance, so we tint applied M i n w P d d ~ Wood Cunditione~ Then we wiped on two coats of Warm cherry oil fkhh Afm three day% WE lightly sanded the

16 maldng and Instan wawn rnddhtg. W e and nail In V-bIo& to q ~ n Gght mats of &U laquer (em spray tha wown molding. cans). Think twim &re you c h o w a

brush-on finish for this project; the ing. Run mitered base cap molding oomer joints (Photo 16). Whm yon cut intricate doara and side p e l s will around the front and sides of the frame. rbe two &on pi- of cmm k t f lak require canful hushwork. We let the I We couldn't find a murower version of the middle protruding d m , do if d e - W dry overnight and spent 30 +

base a p in cherry, so ~ v e cut it down on ly: Cut them horn a piece at least 12 h. minutes rasemb18d the parts in the the table saw {phota, nbmrs right). long while holding on to tbe.waste side. bookcads new home. A tall, hamy piece

If you haven't worked with crown Don't hold on to h e short piece. When of furniture like this a n tip f o m d and molding before, see "Crowning Touch," the mown molding is in place, glue in badly injure =meone, so drive two 3-in. Nov. '04, p. 40. (To order a copy, seep. 7.) V-bl* to support if. lf you want to d& mew through the ba& of tfie prnpet Crown molding in rooms is usudy copd play items on top of the crown, cu t a sheet into wall studs. at inside corners to account for out-of- of 314-in. p I y w d to fit. The parapet is

- D square walls. Since the hame has p e W y 314 in. I- than the crown mold& so ~ : , ~ ~ = ~ ~ -m square corners, we mitered the two a plpmod top will fit down inslde it, 8trs~lrdolo RIANU wmmi HI

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Avoid these common mistakes-and save yourself BIG headaches and BIG money

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-Workb"ench 3d

Build y o q own mobile workbench 1-

sawdust flying in minutes. k t ofall, you h ' t need the skills of a woodworker to build it. Even

- thou@ the workbench loaks like e fine pi= of furni-

' lure, si mpk joiner a n d cut-to-fit Vim make this prow fairly easy even if pu'w done only rudimentary cabinet ' u i ld iq , I i a simple b d c m .

. In thi$ ptm, we'll wdk yw thwgh h key wnaruc- bfi k&ni4-% irvd&nga wique,loraktech w q Yo due up the thick top. b u m A an p 59 I T ~ O W S dl the derails, Yuu wad^ need any e x d c tmS, only a table w, aq&

+ saw* a heavy-duty Mt ~ n d e r .and ar 1- fnur4-&&4q5 baeclamps, +nd t h o s ~ , a & & t r s i a w m $ . g ~ ~

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-J .. I..

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Bench design T h e ~ O f ~ b e a c b i s t h e ~ * W top, wbih is milde km @mi-up && (PIPWOS 12 - 10). The supere* b h d b ftom h e idtaw 3/&h pIy- & ~ ~ t a a 2 8 : 4 ~ ~ ~ ~ (?hot0 lh wb then d z m d ug the base wittr venemd plpmd, kimlwd the b i h w i ~ ; i d a d & d h e a v p - ~ d r a w e f s . o m d ~~ forslm- ~~~~~

O s t r w ( 1 ~ c h L ~ e d ~ & ~ @ ~ d g d l d o a k . ~ H ~ y o u m ~ a b o u t 8 ~ 0 0 i F y o n b v i I d f t ~ =--PW~-* forthe*

This hdi is a me hceqmightr wd&hginar*rnh(withwt mb1. W s h t m i o d kr gb it the ~ m d ~ b r h ~ w & I t m a n ~ d ~ ~ s o p u c a n

Buying tfie materials ~ s p e C i a l ~ ~ ~ ~ k & ~ t h e ~ ~ t t m C ~ ~ O . I n ~ - tion, pick bmds h t have light ~ ( o r n ~ w ) o n o n e + f o r ~ ~ ~ ~ l 4 - k a 4 1 1 d c n t t h e m t o f . & ~ - ~ ~~~~d~~~ ~ m ? & ~ ~ ~ I f ~ ~ t r a ~ ~ t h e l o n g ~ h m c h s r a c b ~ c t r t ~ i p ~ br you. We z e c o ~ whg 314-ia

K ~ f a r ~ ~ a b hitt-~mmd e ~ ~ ~ a n d a n g ~ ~ p o t f w ~ d &

7 p l p m d don't wmq &at & d & m F l a w s w i u n ~ b e s ; e e s r . ~ ~ ~ h ~ a r e & t ~ ~ 3 l 4 - h-tbi&~etr~&g~toW~ ~ ~ a n d t r , ~ h d o g r s a r r d ~ h ~ r a a d ~ & d e & r f p i - ~ P W ~ W & - ing (or ixim

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1 Cut all of the 314411. AC plywood pleces and 2x4 platform parts lFlgure AI. Screw the platform

framing together and then screw on the plywood base, 2 Glue and pin the box sides togather with 1-1 12-In.

brad, then predrlll and anchor them with threa 1-51841. screws alono each edge.

3 Screw tha three boxm together, then mntw the box assembly on the base (3i4 In. from each end)

and screw h dawn. Then screw on the plywood top. 4 flip the bench upside down and screw the vuheels

to the underside with 1-112 x 5/1&ln. lag screws. Position two In the cabinot center.

Cut the parts and build the b Staxt by cutting all of the AC plywood pieces foUowing the cutting diagrams (Figure C, pp. 6-9). TO save an maarials, we cut a few of h e pieces h m IeFtover oak plywood. Mslrk each piece with its lener to save confu- sion later. Assemble the base pktform and then the boxes (Pfio-I 1 and 2). Finish the back c8bi.net shut-

ture by centering the tripIe box assembly on the base, screwing it down and mewing on the top sheet of ply-

. ~od(Phob3).Whenpournountthewh&(~hao 41, make sure they pivot freely and won't bind against the h e ,

After the stmchre is together, hishing the outside of the cabinet is s m i g h d o d . Simply cover the sides md

back with xhe oak plywood cut to 5t (PW 5). each p k e mund the perimeter with 1- 112-in. brads spaced evay 4 in. Then add I-518-in. screws to h e Ixk pads for more men& (they'll be r m d by irh lam). Tfim out the cabinet by cutting baards to fit as &own in FigureAandPhoto B,&gwhb thehofimncalhds at the k e and top. It's a little extra wrk, but the bench will look more polishad if p u miter ehe top and b o r n horieonral trim at the corn= F m d ~ cut m d n d on the vertical t x i m b d s . B e r n to car o r ~ ~ t b e ~ e a l t r i m b w d f l u s b w i t h b b o x o p i n p a t t h e h t 0th- the drawer slides will be too narrow at tbe b n t and won't o p t e smoothly.

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Glue the plywood end and back panels Vllw u 10 6 Mher, then glue and nail on the bottom and top boxes and nail them with 1-libin. brads. S m horizontal trim pieces. Then cut, glue and nail the

the perimeter of the three ba& pane18 to the boxes vertical trim in place (figure A). with 1-5ia.h. screws. I

7 Glue and nall the drawer Jdes to the fronts and 8 Rest the top-drawer slldes on a spacer flush with the backs Square up e ~ ~ h drawer with the bottom fmnt trim, then extend them and screw them to the

panel and glue and nall it into place.

WthBdrawwS We give you the measurements for the drawer fronts and backs, but that assumes that you cut and assembled your cabinet k e s pmkctly. It's best to mwure he box widths at this point and cut the front and back of the dmvets exactly 1 in. shorter than the openings. Double- c h d those pieces before assembling the drawers. If they're any larger or smaIler, h e slides won't work.

Photos 8 and 9 s h o ~ holy to IE& plpwod S p W S to mount the drawer slides accurately. (ISee the Cutting List, pp. 6849, for spacer sizes.) Slightly m@e in the spacers and rest the drawer on them so tbe drawer proj- a a few inches beyond the cabinet front P d out bath drawer slides until they're flush with the drawer h n t

ddm of the cabinet box

THE P A W Y WWMW JYMWBIJANUARI 20# #

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workbench I

9 Rest lhe drawm on the spacars. Screw the slides 10 Mount the draww alldm to the udlhy drawer onto h e drawer at the front Rrst, slide the dranrer blocks uslng 1/44n. spa- and tfien mount the

out and drive the second patr, then repeat for the th ld drawer. Center and demp the drnwur blocks to the cabinet basa and fastm them WIUI 3-In. w o w s I

11 Lag-screw the angle iron to the bench-top sup- port boards wfth 1-112-in. x 5/l&in. lag screws.

Then bolt them to the base with 2-in. x 5116-in. nuts and b o k

and drive the first screws through the dots (Photo 8). Slide out the drawer until the nexr ram hola are show- ing and i n d l the next two s m and then slide it out farther to accm the last ones. Rip tbE s p a r and mount the s a n d drawer the same way. Use a 114-in, spacer for the h o r n sliding shelf, bottom drawer and utility drawer (Photo 10).

Cut and edge the d m r and dmr fronts Cut h e identid panels of oak p- (Figure A) for

I built a version of this bench last winter for my shop and belteve me, K s a joy to usa. [My wlfe complains that Ks nlcer than our kltchen abinetsl) If you've never had a decent vise coupled with bench dogs, you're in for a trertt. They're great for planing, sanding and many other tasks.

I urge you to cud0miz0 the drawers and sliding shelves. When building my bench, I laid out my tools and supplies

- and decided the number and sizes of the drawers and sliding shelves to store them all. The &in.-tall drawer In the space '

between the bench top and cabinet base Is my favorite. ft stores my tape m a * ures, squares, uhisels, drill bits and mark- ing knives. t added slotted bins in the bottom of ons of the cabinets for my air guns.

Send me soma digital photos of your new ban& akng with comments regarding the building of your bench and any problems you encourvtered We'd love to see and hear how your bench took shape. Send tham to travisJarson@readers dig est.com.

the doors and &. Cow the edges with sh-ip-s.of maechrng hardwood for a nat , dmbk edge meament. -

Page 43: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

12 Rip twenty-four 74t.-long 2rr4s to 3-11Mn. widths. 13 Clamp each bosrd and screw It to the others Lay thrw pipe damps on a R a t surface. Roll a with 3-111, screw spaced every 6 In. Add another

thin layer of glue ovar the two maling f a of the 2x4s. clamp and more screws as needed to dose large gaps.

14 Mark the bench at 6 ft long, then cm m aotn 15 Bah-sand the top flat diagonally Rrsf one way, ends witf~ a guide and circular saw. Cut from then the other until the *progress" IInes -r.

both sides. Then finish sanding wtth a random ortrkal sander.

Rip your own strips or buy 112 x 314-in. "parting stop" at the lumberyard. GIue and pin on the edging with 1-in. brads and slighrly ease the edges with sandpaper to pre- vent splinters. Then cut the drawer fronts from one of the panels on the table aw. When the drawer fronts are mounted, the spa= bemen the drawers will be the thickness of h e saw kerf (use 16d nails as spacers), so the top and bottom wiIl remain aligned with the doors, Mount the fronts as we show in Photo 17. Tack strips of wood spaced 112 in. from the openings on the bottom and one side to d i p the bottom drawer fronts. Screw the hinga on the cabinet doors (3 in. from the top and bot- tom) Erst and then center the doors and screw the hinges to the cabinet.

DECEMBERIJAPIUMY 1000 lrrE FAMILY IiANPYMAH

Glue up the knch top Gluing up and flattening your bench top will take most of a day. You can get by with lour pipe clamps, but if you have any buddies with pipe damps, borrow them too; they'll speed up the process and ensure gap-free glue joints.

Begin your top by mrting twelve 14-ft. long 2x4s in hdf. Choose the best edge of each piece: the one with the fewest, smallest h t s and without any comer defects. Rip each 2x4 to 3-114 in. wide, trimming the best edge square. Cluster together the first h e boards, h d the cen- ter of the group and mark lines every 6 in. (~hota ts). Later, avoid these locations when you're driving mews so you can drilI dean holes for the bench dogs.

Page 44: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

qrrd md Illq m -Am vnq I~'LFO~~ dm md q s&S marmu g r ~IIW

au *spa paw hn 1-P m= P *P I* re asn rF md s,lq .dm aag-ds% dppd a

~ojS~pdn~QX~1p~nqq~m~~ hpmq ap 8-p xaddp- marl dn Bop w an@ aq .(Xpo doi) %w dmap B qoj avJ3oad~ pw IWTB w (mauoq P no -azaanbs an@ aq 30 ad- 'qmq ma^ e Sup@ mgv "aq- mq aq 9 dpq - Jq PZ

IsQ aV @W Wclq 'Y-811 1I!W a! anfo -m uqq ~xr ay saqs%i@ 03 dmp qmq q pps %n@ 8qmo as acuop na4 amm (IqnmmmbsII an@ ma ue 1o-j Syqool rlq 1p9g q atp g p~ rrrw nq

."rausjo MOJ aq3 vp =p %g p!~ 03 08 nd se dw puaq av no WDS atp ymw pq xaq Bqpm ququp 01 a[q!ssod SE qsnp se sdal pq aq dq d~qe~ap~m Oqm1ds a@ arp dn spaads 3ap

3q-d pw au .(sr pus ZL world) an0 dq auo sp8"t atp ~ms pue an@ PUB sdwq ad!d amp $no Lq .asq -ms jq B uo & aq~ dmp pntr an@ OI ~n~~lodq SJI

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.. - by Eric Smith ,

W b Cb?m€Ir, rrtra lgbr and

Y eatherboards for an extm set of hands

it's tough to keep a h a r d board firmly against the piece of softwoods)-thin enough so the w aligned with the fence, pull out a wood 1 to 3 in. before the saw long fingers flex slightly. featherboard for smooth, straight blade, then damp it tightly to the cuts. Featherboards have a series saw rable, It should be fairly easy of wooden "fingers" that hold to push the wood fomrd but wood tightly against the saw hard to pull it back. And when fence. The fingers are slightly you're ripping large boards, add flexible and cut at an angle, so a second damp for --firm they anow you to push the wood pressure.

1 118" TO 114"

through w M e maintaining firm, Make your own featherbwds even pressure, They a h dig in from a 2-A. length of bt- free and hold wood in place if it starts 1x4. Cut one end at 45 degrees. to kick back. They're a great Then cut a mies of 4-in.-long *third hand" when you want the kerfs every 118 to 114 in. (narrow-

@ ! perfect rip. Just push the feather- er on stiR hardwoods, wider on

C

THE PAMlLY HAHDYHAU OECEMBERIJAMVARV 2008 81

Page 56: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

Set up simple outfeed support l y i n g to rip h e last few feet of a long Keep in mind that this works only with con- board wirhoupahelper or support at the tractor-size and larger tabIe saws with heavy

possible. An expen- steel or iron tables. It could cause lighter solve the problem. bench-top saws to tip or bend. e, set up a tempo-

e plywood perfecdy in Iine

, underside of the 2x4s.

Page 57: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

When gas sits. gum can

form that keeps engines from

starting. When you add STA-BILD

Fuel Stabilizer to your gas can and

gas-powered equipment this fall,

you'll guarantee a quick start next spring.

Whm. I str , &art WM STh-B,

I Sold In Ihe automhe &en

at leadt~rg n!eU6Ks. I

Usa a half feme for mplioated gmm W d w h b I P l O t g ~ ~ ~ g r a i n d w d d r a t ~ ~ W ~ w i n ~ ~ ~ a s ~ ~ p i t . ~ ~ ~ b e n d

~ a ~ o r m ~ c m

~ ~ w m k ~ p e n , d a m p ~ sumth, smi& h g f i l of 3J4-in. d ~ ~ f e n G % e n d b g a t ~ ~ t e f . d b w # u m Wf-+=b+* ( ~ ~ ~ t h e W ~ d the he) m m ta Wwihut pushing badF a@mt the Wda l g Q e p ~ ~ ~ a h a n d 9 o p u ~ ~ m & & e ~

I andOOrnpl*&e m ~ " r f t h e m ~ b e & ~

a & & m w ~ ~ r a t - p h ~ ~ s p I i t f e r a t . t ~ o f the Wegmd-hnhcmoff a n c l ~ a ~ ~ t k e t w p i - . T h t n ~ * n r t .

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by George Vondriska

1 No problem When the w i d is blows the rain h 0mhg and the pwr is going, what do p u do? Scurry around the h o w hoking for a flashlight and radio with pod W e $ ? Hope your cell pbom has a fd charge? The Black & D d e s Storm Station ($100) is an all-in-one axlsww to stormy weather and poww outages. PIug the Storm Station in and

the onboard batteries wiIl be dlarged when you need them. If the power d m go old, a Small *Find Me Lighf' comes on so you can 1-a the Storm Station in the dark A r e m d k fla* dh baWs that also charge when he s t i o n is pIu& in, can be d to l@t )pow my so you don't stub PUT roes. A larger light, builf into the St&&, will ihmhte a sman mom, The onbaard radio cao be wed to 1 d tdwbim 6PBEiow cIaeAMorFMdial,or,bywingthe wertdm band, to weatherspe&c dl&.

The Storm Station dm indudes an inverter that will power house- hold phones that q u i r e e l d c i - iy, a d wen some laptop comput- ers. The m h u m output of the inverter is about -22 amps, not enough juie to make coff~e or run a blow dryer. The Station a h has a &are& lighter-style 12-vdt DC

I wnnection with an output of 25 I amps. If p u ' ~ pet a dl phone

d-mger yon we in pur car, it can be plugged into the Storm Station.

I The Storm Station is available at home centers.

Bhok & m r , (800) -. -.bbE-k*r-

Page 65: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

blade mechanism kick in. Cutting w d won't trigger the si@ According to the manufacturer, the system is self-monitor-

ing and won't allow the saw to be turned on if the system isn't

You really don't want to do your own hotdog experiments with the szlw, because activating the brake mechanism desuoys

Sfart 10, end with 10 both the blade and he brake. Replament brake cartridges are $69 for 10-in. blades and $89 for &in. dado heads. Swapping a

A table saw accident will ruin anybody's day. Even incidental blown cartridge only takes moments. A 30-in. contact with a spinning blade can cost you a digit. Enter the fence comes standard with both the cabinet Sawstop machines. T h e table saws include a revolutionary and contractor saws. Larger fence capac- Made retraction and braking system that instandy stops the i ties are available for an additional fee. blade if it contacts skin. Sawstop table saws are more expen-

How does 5 milliseconds sound to you? That's 5 tlrorr- sive than most other table saw. But s n ~ r d t h of a second-the time it takes for the SawStop mech- they're quality, welI-engineered saws anism to stop a saw blade and drop it below the saw table, and may save you a trip to the hand ,,r once your h g e r contacts the blade. That's less than the blink surgeon. Whah that worth?

ER!" injury to an "Oops, I need a Band-Aidn injury. On the SawStop. The company's cabinet SawvStop Web site, watch as a hotdog is run into the blade to saw is available now for $2,799 and sirnuIate a table saw accident. You just can't beIieve how its contractor-style saw will be quickly the retractionlbrake m ~ h a n i s m mcts.

- - . .

I , No lost straws, ever It's a little thing, but it drives me nuts. # on those straws so they can'r ever run 1 I buy an aerosol can of silicone, car- oiTagain. buretor cleaner or penetrating oil, use It wuldn'r be simpler. There's a big it ace or nrice, and the next time I loop that stretches around h e top of need it, I mdt find the straw that the can.At the end of the leash is a rub- focuses the stream. It's gone, some- ber balI with a straw-size hoIe in it. where in the Black Hole of Lost Stuff. HoM-Its are durable enough to be used

I But the Black Hole isn't getting any over and over. Get 'em straight from more of my straws, because I've the manufacturer. found HsId-Its ($5 for 12). nou-I#, (201) 440-lea@. This is a cool ljltje problem www.ho~c#-~t.net

solver that lets you put a leash

- .

e s ~ m a u m J A w ~ ~ ~ ~

Page 66: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

Tough-as-iron work pants Adayinrhr:l&ofaEreb~drrlggadtbughb&t, r u n m , ~ o n a n d ~ j t o I o t s a f p ~ A dayin ~ e t i f e o f m y ~ d o & ~ ~ ~ u g h t h e dirt, nm over, tugged on and subjected to tots af pmmm Ifadypumuld get dotha that areaslonglashgand toughasafmh~~e.Nowpucani~uth~dingCds Fire HOSE Work Fan& ($SO plus $9.95 shippSngl are made fiam the same stuE fire hoses we made hm, which Inam t h ~ ~ t o ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ u t ~ m e o t h c r ~ - durywrk pants, you don't 4 w drag cbem bekid+ ~ " w ~ t o s o ~ h n p ~ o x e y o a ~ ~ ~ ~ t3me.Thq'ncomfm%a&sofirigbtfromthesntrt

Thew aren't tight-fitting j m r ~ ~ They're p m n S r y art w r k pan& &at: let p u had o w , dimb a ladder add heel in the &And k f r e @;-rich, inddhga spe- d pou& for the latcsr Wi-pWer tm&pu d pPone.Tke are 90 m m y ~ t h a t ~ canalmat I ~ p k I r ~ b e h i n d ~ p a n & e a n b a n d k @ n y - thing you?

HAVE A TAPE OR GLUE QUESTlONl ~ w . g o r i l l a t a p e . c o n i www.gorillaglue.com

I-BOO-966-3458

Page 67: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

newproducts

Have an impact an your project ~ ~ M o p ~ ' l b u & - ~ ~ ? b p d e m The new Ridgid Right-Angle Impact D k ($129) isa b h t o t r s c . I t f d g m r i n y o n r h d , e a d y g e t s i a t o ~ ~ d p a c k S r ~ p ~ l e t s f i d r h e s a w s that would.& a regular cord- drill

I t ' s ~ e o d r i P e s c r c w s w i t b m ~ d r i w r h V P i t h a n w - i m p a d ~ ~ ~ ~ d r i ~ p ~ a g a h s t r h e ~ w k e n i t ~ ~ . I t ' s l & e t p pingonEhemdofevmn&whahhbshldGAsthe mew h m m M to drive, k a rat-a-tal-tat £mm h &rim, like that cool m d you hear horn the ~sgarqyvirbenpu'rehaviugpurtimchanged

TbeImpacthhdoesn"lhaPcadriIl&u&ithasa 1 1 4 h c o u p 1 e r . ~ bitsarediysmppedinarrd out. of @ c ~ 1 p h . It m e s with one 12-volt batmy and a

and can be p c b d only from Rome D e p t stores.

Do ii Once. Do it Right.

Page 68: Woodworking - Family Handyman (dec-jan 2006)

dhat Size? How Many? How Much?

Get It Right The First Time! I

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