Wooden windows and doors WOODEN WINDOW AND DOOR...

Wooden windows and doors

JSC “Vudesta“ Ordering contacts

Legal entity code: 300151934 Tel.: +370 620 43559

VAT code: LT100001935816 Tel.: +370 614 70496

Dariaus ir Girėno str. 47 A Tel. +370 61532255 www.vudesta.lt

89383 Seda, Mažeikiai d., [email protected]

Lithuania [email protected]

WOODEN WINDOW AND DOOR OPERATING AND

MAINTENANCE MANUAL

JSC “Vudesta” doors/windows are intended for beauty, efficiency, and Your convenience. This

publication contains information about Your new windows and doors. After reading it, you will learn how to

take care of them, what to do to keep them good-looking and durable.

Should You face a problem not described in this publication, do not hesitate to contact JSC “Vudesta”

by phone: +370 614 70496 or by e-mail [email protected]. JSC “Vudesta” website address: www.vudesta.lt

Product warranty is valid only if the operating and maintenance instructions are followed.

Thank you for purchasing JSC “Vudesta” products.

http://www.vudesta.lt/

mailto:[email protected]






VAT code: LT100001935816 Tel.: +370 614 70496




1. DESCRIPTION OF PRODUCTS

JSC “Vudesta” produces European (Euro 67, Euro 67ALU, Euro 77, Euro 77ALU, Euro 87, Euro

87ALU”) and Scandinavian type (opened outwards) windows (116/56, 116/78) and doors of various size and

configuration. All production materials used are certified and comply with applicable requirements. The

number beside the title of the Euro window indicates a jamb width and varying as 67 mm, 77 mm, and 87

mm thick. European type windows are made of pine, oak, larch, and meranti. Wood blanks are glued beams,

thus, there is a lower probability of wood expansion or shrinkage, distortion, cracks, or crevices. Pine blanks

may be spiny or smooth.

Scandinavian type wooden windows are usually made of pine and sipo. Pine blanks are also glued

beams, as well as the above-mentioned European-type windows. Window and door frames are varnished,

painted, or covered with aluminium caps from the outside (aluminium capped windows and doors are

maximally protected against weather – rain, temperature, wind). For window and door finishing, we use

primer, paint, and varnish of Finnish company “Teknos”.

European type windows and doors are supplied with high-quality German “ROTO FRANK AG“

fittings, and Scandinavian type – with “PN Beslag“ fittings. “ROTO FRANK AG” fittings have some unique

features, compared with fittings of other manufacturers, therefore, please carefully read the section 3.2, which

describes how to open and close the European type windows. You may also contact a manager of JSC

“Vudesta” to see how to open and close them correctly. We have a huge variety of grass units, so, at Your

request, we can design any to meet all Your requirements. The most popular glass units consist of two or

three clear glass panes. In a three-grass unit, two glass panes are covered with a selective coating. Selective

coating is a metal dust coat which reflects a heat moving through a glass unit (like a mirror reflecting the

light.). In this way, the selective coating saves warmth in winter and ensures less solar heat and more

coolness in summer. Unit spacing between the panes is usually filled with argon gas. The inert gas insulates

heat better than the still air. Argon may be replaced with xenon or krypton gas, with heat insulation properties

even better. However, such units are more expensive. Gas is preserved in the air-tight unit 60 years or more.

The glass units vary in thickness, a quantity of glass panes, and shade. Recently, glass units with plastic

Swisspacer™ or Thermix™ frames instead of aluminium ones are in fashion. They prevent the penetration of

heat outside through the unit edges and reduce the likelihood of glass fogging.

Glazing 2-pane unit with usual

glass

2-pane unit with 1

selective glass (argon gas

filling)

3-pane glass with 2

selective glass panes

(argon gas filling) Heat transfer coefficient c,

(W/m2K) 2.80 1.10 0.65

Average glass surface

temperature* 9.10°C 15.3°C 17.5°C

*-room air temperature + 21 °C, outside temperature -10 °C







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2. INSTALLATION OF WINDOWS

All the company's products must be installed in accordance with the technical construction regulation

ST 2491109.01.2000 “Installation of windows, doors and their constructions.” A brief overview of the

installation details is provided below.

Attention! If windows/doors are installed in breach of the manufacturer's requirements, the

warranty shall not be valid in case of split glass units, frames, deflections, cracked fitting parts

(provided that it occurs due to the window load or deformation).

2.1. WINDOW/DOOR INSTALLATION PROCEDURE:

• Check a delivery set and dimensions;

• Prepare the opening;

• Determine the number of mounting points and the method of mounting;

• Locate support and mounting blocks;

• For convenience, remove a window sash/ a door leaf;

• Place the product on the blocks;

• Use a spirit level and adjust the height of the blocks to regulate vertical and horizontal positions of

the product;

• Fix the product in the opening;

• Remove unnecessary auxiliary mounting blocks;

• Seal spaces between the window frame and the jamb.

Attention! When using too much or improper insulating foam, it may deform the frame while

expanding. As a result, the product is trapped when opening or closing it. In such cases, the adjustment

hardly helps.

2.2. WINDOW/DOOR MOUNTING METHODS:

2.2.1. Drilling right through the frame (see Fig. 2). In this case, a hole is drilled right through the frame, with

the diameter allowing to fix a fastener. Recommended fastener diameter is 10 mm (minimum mounting depth

– 30 mm);

2.2.2. Anchoring (see Fig. 3), by driving a self-tapping screw (min. 6x40) to the frame. Anchors are fixed to

the building wall using screws or fasteners (minimum mounting depth - 30 mm).







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2.2.3. Before installation, locate support and mounting blocks (see Fig. 4).

2.2.4. Arrange the blocks so that a frame can shift slightly in case of a higher load

2.2.5. Use plastic or hard wood wedges and plates for the blocks.

2.2.6. Determine the number and distance of mounting points according to the layout (see Fig. 5)

Fig. 2. Window/door mounting through the frame

using a fastener

Fig. 3. Window/door mounting using anchors

Fig. 4. Support and distance block location

Tilt window

(aluminium

windows are

maximally

protected against

Support block Distance block (appropriate support means may serve as distance blocks)

Non-hardening

sealant

Jamb

Screw fastener

Polyurethane

Plaster

Brick wall

Non-hardening

sealant

Polyurethane

Wood screw

Bracket

(anchor)

Screw fastener

or nail

Plaster

Tilt and turn window Single-hung and single

casement window with a jamb Double-hung window with a

jamb







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Attention! Installation of windows and doors is a very important aspect of their functioning and long

life, therefore, this work must be performed by a qualified assembler who knows how to install

windows and external doors in a proper way.

2.3. SEALING

Seal spaces so that the product frames are not deformed. Use insulating foam according to

specifications. Perform the sealing in such a way to leave no spacing between the frame and a wall and no

void gaps.

Attention! Please install the products in a wall insulation area. Edges of the products must be properly

sealed to prevent entry of water and humid air into them. • Perform additional waterproofing of the

casement from both the inside and the outside, because insulating foam does not insulate humidity. •

Insulate the casement from the outside, since inadequate heat insulation may result in overcooling of

the window or door frame. If insulating foam gets on painted or varnished surfaces, clean it as soon as

possible, since it may aesthetically damage the product.

3. WOODEN WINDOWS AND DOORS OPERATING CONDITIONS

3.1. GENERAL CONDITIONS

While using wooden windows, You should understand that this is a high quality product which

requires a proper operation and maintenance compared to plastic windows.

The products installed are often damaged during the finishing works of the premises – they get

splashed with various solutions, glass units and frames get scratched, fittings get full of various debris; upon

failure to maintain a proper indoor climate (temperature and humidity), windows or doors deform and swell.

Fig. 5 Mounting point layout







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Make sure the room is sufficiently ventilated during the finishing (plastering, concreting) and several

months thereafter, because an increase in moisture may cause mold formation on the frame, windows may

deform (leak, hard to open and close), varnished surfaces may turn white, and the wood – discolour. Coating

and wood colour may change as a result of splashing or any other contact with construction materials. In this

case, the products are irreparably damaged.

During finishing works, cover the products with transparent film, cardboard, etc., protect painted,

varnished surfaces, glass, locks, hinges and other fittings against a contact with plaster, cement, or paint.

Keep the sealed film for up to 3 days. After installation, remove the film to prevent condensation between the

film and the product. Scratches on a frame or a unit make the product aesthetically damaged. Such defects are

also hard to remove without replacing the product or a part of it with a new one.

Upon getting of various wall plastering, cementing, polishing dust and debris into fittings, the fittings

become trapped, hard functioning, and, sometimes, breaks. Besides, hard to close sashes may deform.

One of the mostly ignored wooden window and door operating conditions is an indoor climate. In case

of improper microclimate, the products swell, deform. As a result, they may begin to rot, mold, become

leaky, hard to use.

Attention!

• Window fogging is one of the symptoms of the inappropriate temperature to humidity ratio

(microclimate) indoors.

• Condensate on the window or doors may result in mold formation, glass tape and frame

deformation.

• Windows and doors must be operated in rooms with not too much or a lack of moisture to

prevent fogging or overdry. In winter, do not raise indoor temperatures above 25 °C, when there is

extreme cold outside. Otherwise, that may lead to a window or door turning part strain, they will

become leaky.

• During indoor finishing or repair works, protect fittings against debris, dust, glue, paint.

Otherwise, it may damage anticorrosion coating or break the fittings.

• When covering windows and doors against damage during construction or using shutters, make

sure not to damage a glass or a frame of the product.

• To prevent a break in window or door fittings, do load overload a window sash, do load support

or lift it using auxiliary items.

• Do not place any foreign items between a sash and a jamb (do not place wires, cables), which

may deform the window or door frame, fittings.

3.2. WINDOW OPENING

A number of opening positions is planned upon receiving an order. Key opening positions (see. Fig. 6):

3.2.1 A handle is lowered downwards – a window is closed.

3.2.2 A handle is turned toward the hinges – a window is opened.

3.2.3. A handle is turned upwards – a window top is opened for ventilation.

3.2.4. A handle is lowered from the upper position at 45° toward the hinges – a leaky window (micro-

ventilation).







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Fig. 6. Opening European type windows

ROTO NT – OPERATING AND SAFETY

INSTRUCTIONS FOR WINDOW HARDWARE

Key functions

Closed Opened Tilted Avoid mishandling

Optional functions*

45° micro ventilation multistep micro

ventilation 25° multistep tilt 45° crank handle

Window turned in

two directions Opened window

* depending on the scope of supply of the window fittings

In order to assure the long operation of Your windows and security, please

observe the following instructions

Do not subject the sash to

additional loads

Do not press up the sash

against the window reveal

Do not place any objects

between the sash and frame

Where children or persons with mental

disabilities have access to the windows,

the sash is to be safeguard against

turning. Install a child-safe lock or a

key-lockable handle.

Do not leave sashes open during

strong winds

Caution! There is a risk of injury by

slamming window. While closing, do

not grasp between the sash and

frame







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Warning! To change the direction of window turning, turn the handle only after pressing the

sash against the frame. Otherwise, the sash may fall out from the frame or fittings may fail.

RotoSil surface-finish. Nano surface-finish with silver

look. Optimal protection by means of galvanising,

chromating, and additional sealing.

Increased corrosion protection.

ROTO NT HARDWARE SYSTEM – DIRECT BENEFIT FOR YOUR WINDOWS

Security mushroom cam. Height and contact pressure adjustment and security against break-ins in one. Roto

offers a multifunctional and maximally reliable locking

system. Fixing positions of multifunctional latch bolts are

matching. Thus, changing the purpose of the latch to anti-

burglar does not cause problems even after the window

installation.

Micro ventilation. The disadvantage of today’s tight windows is accumulation of vapour and moisture. Proper

hardware may solve this problem. Roto micro ventilation

is the only component of the casement, the installation of

which is possible in the ready window, just pressing

against a latch and screwing in.

Security

latch

Standard

latch

Opening. A sash-embedded protection against a draught

ensure a sash stability in the opening position. Window

shutting with a slam due to a strong wind became history.

Wrong control stopper. Another multifunctional

component – wrong control stopper and a sash actuator in

one. The actuator prevents a sash from “dropping” on the

handle side, and the sash always locks in on the same

level. The wrong control stopper

prevents a handle misuse. All

of this assures a safe operation

and a long service live of the

window.

Handles and caps. Elegant lines and colours create a harmonious design. Nice shape of Rutoline handles

matches in colour with caps and becomes a real decoration

of interiors.

WE OPEN UP ROOMS







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3.3. GLASS UNITS

Glass unit is one of the key window and door components, thus, make sure to protect it and avoid split-

provoking actions. The largest part of the window consists of the glass unit, therefore, its thermal

conductivity and transparency features are of high importance.

Attention!

Do not stick any film on glass (especially, on tinted glass). Under different thermal stresses, the glass

unit may break.

The whole surface of the tinted glass must be illuminated or shaded. In only a certain area is in the

shade, unevenly heated glass may crack.

If the glass is exposed to more than 36°C temperature difference, the glass thermo-cracking probability

increases significantly.

Heating appliances must be at least 20 cm away from the glass surface.

A stove, refrigerator must be at least 30 cm away from the glass surface.

A temperature of a heating device next to the glass must not exceed 65°C.

When you start to heat premises, raise the temperature of the radiators gradually, but not rapidly.

When using heaters, do not direct the flow of warm air toward the glass.

Refrigeration and air conditioning appliances near the glass pane also may cause glass cracking.

Glass thermo-cracking may occur due to insufficient space heating (especially, in the absence of

heating in winter).

The glass surface by no means must come into contact with internal or external blinds – a difference in

surface temperatures may cause the glass unit cracking. A distance between the blinds and the glass

surface must be at least 2 cm.

Warning! Keep children away from the cracked or broken glass.

Warranty does not cover glass unit thermo-cracking, cracking due to pressure fluctuations, strokes.

Wrap the glass unit with thick adhesive tape in different directions across the cracking and cover the floor

with cardboard or anything else not to damage the flooring with the falling grass. Contact JSC “Vudesta” or

other professional glass cutters.

4. WOODEN WINDOW AND DOOR MAINTENANCE

WOODEN WINDOWS AND DOORS MAINTENANCE INCLUDES:

• maintenance of internal and external coating of paint or varnish;

• fittings functional check and adjustment;

• lubrication of fittings’ moving parts and closure points;

• seal check;

• seal cleaning, treatment of water drain cavities;

• glass check;

• outer surface coating with special maintenance means (not for aluminium cap coating).

Attention!

• Be careful while cleaning the windows, do not overreach. If needed, use the tools for window cleaning.

• Do not leave children unattended when cleaning the open windows.







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4.1. HOW TO TAKE CARE OF PAINTED, VARNISHED COATINGS

To keep your windows good-looking and intact, please perform maintenance of painted or varnished

coatings on an annual basis – periodically clean them and use different types of care means for wood coating.

If paint or varnish coating of your windows or doors slightly changes colour, it is a natural consequence

(exposure to sun, air, moisture).

Clean dust and dirt from the surface at least twice a year. Otherwise, mold and lichen may occur. We

recommend to clean solid dirt using Teknoclean detergent. Wipe a clean surface using a water-dampened

sponge or cloth. Do not use abrasive household cleaners as they may damage the varnished coating or varnish

and wood may discolour. Further, abrasive cleaners may damage glass or window fittings. Please carefully

read detergent manufacturers’ instructions and follow them. Before cleaning masonry or other surfaces beside

the window, please cover or otherwise protect the window. Should an acid cleaner be spilled on the surface of

the window, immediately rinse it with clean water. Do not use powder or other abrasive cleaners. We

recommend Teknovax cleaner for varnished and painted surfaces. Before using any of the above means, cover

the surface with a protective layer that protects against dirt; a coating becomes more elastic and glossier. You

may apply these means with a cloth or sponge. No additional polishing is needed. Before using the care

means, be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions.

4.2. HOW TO REPAINT AND RE-VARNISH WINDOWS AND DOORS

Acrylic paint and varnish are most suitable for Your products. They will not have an adverse contact

with seals and former window and door coatings. We recommend acrylic paint of the Finnish company

“Teknos.” Before painting or varnishing the products, please read with the key recommendations for

painting:

• Do not paint sealing joints, seals, locks, handles, plastic trims, silicone joints next to the glass units,

insect nets, or other moving parts.

• Before painting, please prepare the surface. Scrub the former paint or varnish coating with a

sandpaper or a grinding sponge. Remove any dust with a soft dry cloth.

• Do not use abrasive or other surface damaging cleaners.

• Before painting, use grease removers or primers.

• Make sure the painted surface is not damaged when turning it or coming in contact with other

surfaces until the paint completely dries out.

• Before locking the painted or varnished sashes of windows or doors, please lubricate seals with fat

(e.g., cooking oil) so that not to tear a paint or varnish coating off from the wooden surface when contacting it

until the paint completely dries out.

Attention! Grinding, chemical cleaning, painting, varnishing and other finishing works are to be carried

out in a well-ventilated area.

• Please paint open windows only and do not close them until the paint completely dries out. Before

painting, a grease remover or primer must completely dry out.

To know when you need to repaint your wooden products (windows and doors), we recommend you to

set an outside product coating group. You can do this according to the following tables:

Determine your type of wood products:

Soft wood: pine, larch. Hard wood: oak, meranti.







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Determine the external colour tone of your products. This table provides only varnish colour codes;

you may determine a paint colour tone by yourself:

Colour tone Colour code

Light TM 1531, TM 1702, TV3165x2

Medium dark TM1522, TM 1706, TM 1709, TM 11711, TM 1712, TM 1713, TM 1715,

TM4066/97, TV 16, SAD6, SAD29

Dark TM 1520, TM 1530, TM 1701,TM1703, TM 1705, TM 1717, SAD9

Based on the above data and weather conditions, the finishing group is assigned to the exterior of Your

products:

Load Colour tone Varnish Paint Lubricant

soft wood hard wood soft wood hard wood hard wood

Indirect weather effect - when

products are protected from

rain and sun exposure, but the

outdoor temperature and

humidity affect them

All A A A A

D Normal weather effect - direct

products’ exposure to weather

and sun up to 3rd floor.

Light E E B B

Medium C B C B

Dark C B C B

Extreme weather effect - direct

products’ exposure to weather

and sun over 3rd floor

Light E E B B

Medium E B C B

Dark E B E B

Different surface-renewal intervals are recommended for each finishing group. Based on the table below, you

can determine what product repainting interval is suitable for You:

Finishing group Recommended maintenance

A It is recommended to renew the surface after a period of 5 years.

B It is recommended to renew the surface after a period of 3 years.

C It is recommended to renew the surface after a period of 2 years, since resin leaks and/or cracks

may occur in the wood and frame joints, and, in turn, damage the finishing coat.

D It is recommended to renew the surface after a period of 1 year or if no water droplets are

visible on the surface of the wood after rain.

E Installation is not recommended due to inadequate surface durability under weather conditions.

The above surface renewal (repainting, re-varnishing) intervals are provided with the condition that the finish

coat is regularly maintained.







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Attention! Finishing of aluminium-coated external surface of products is not required, since aluminium

caps protect wood surfaces against the external weather exposure.

4.3. HOW TO TAKE CARE OF SEALS AND WATER DRAIN CAVITIES

If your window or door has rubber (elastomer) seals, they must be lubricated with silicone grease (e.g.,

for lubrication of car door seals) at least twice a year. This protects seals against cracking, freezing in winter

time, they adhere to the frame much better, making a window tighter. When cleaning windows, be sure to

clean the seals. Various debris may rip or deform them. While inspecting and cleaning seals, open a sash to

check whether there is no clog in the condensate drain cavities of the aluminium drip strip, mounted at the

bottom of a window frame (see Fig. 8). If cavities contain debris, dirt, be sure to clean it to allow the dripped

in water to drain out, otherwise, it may build up on the frame and flow into the premises.

4.4. HOW TO CARE FOR FITTINGS

For a faultless operation and long service life of fittings, it must always be clean and lubricated.

Therefore, carry out the following works twice a year (in autumn and spring):

• Use a dry cloth to remove dust, construction debris, waste from the fittings.

• Check whether hinges of opened windows and doors are fixed securely and have not shifted down. If

they are loose, tighten the screws, or, if necessary, replace them. This is the safest point of a window.

• If hinges have no trip caps, make sure a pin of the upper hinge is fully inserted from below.

• Clean window fittings using nonabrasive and non-powder detergents only (e.g., soapy water). Acidic

and powder detergents may damage anti-corrosive coating of fittings, thus, causing their corrosion. Dry using

a clean cloth.

• After cleaning the fittings, lubricate moving components and the closure points with grease or oil

(see. Fig. 7, 9, 10, 11). Use acid-free and non-resinous grease or oil, for example, domestic oil for sewing

machines.

Fig. 8 Frame with the drip strip, fitted with water drain cavities

Water drain cavities







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Fig. 8. European type window fittings lubrication scheme

ROTO NT – WINDOW HARDWARE

MAINTENANCE

Maintenance Your windows are furnished with high quality original Roto hardware. This means: user-

friendly service, faultless operation and long service life. By means of regular greasing and

oiling* (at least once a year) all operation-relevant components in the hardware, you maintain

the smooth operation and protect against premature wear and tear. In addition, separate screws

are to be checked for security, if needed, to be screwed in or replaced.

*Please use only acid-free

machinery grease or oil.







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Fig. 9. Scandinavian type window fittings lubrication scheme







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Fig. 10. Scandinavian type window fittings lubrication scheme







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Fig. 11. Uni window fittings lubrication scheme

Only qualified experts of window manufacturers are allowed to perform the following works:

• to replace components of fittings;

• to take off and fit in hinged parts (sashes);

• to adjust hardware (in particular, shears, hinges). If a hinged part is stuck, make sure there is no paint, dust,

stones, or debris in the fitting or moving parts. Remove them, if any, clean and lubricate the moving parts.

Otherwise, you may damage the fittings. In addition, in case of improperly closed fittings, the sash may

deform or fall out from the window frame. The sashes are provided with the above said cavities as well. If

this cavities are clogged, water accumulates between the frame and the glass unit. Being wet for a longer

time, the glass unit start fogging between glass panes, selective coating is oxidized, and spots occur. Further,

the accumulated water dampens the frame (it starts rotting) and glass tapes (they deform).







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4.5. HOW TO TAKE CARE OF PLASTIC AND ALUMINIUM COMPONENTS

Clean plastic and aluminium components with a mild detergent and water solution. Abrasive cleaners

may scratch the surface of such components, damage the paint. You can use weak alcohol and water solutions

for cleaning. Warning! Be sure to remove protective film from the surface of aluminium caps within 2

months following the date of purchasing the windows. This film is used for temporary surface protection

against dirt, scratches, and impressions, but is not intended to protect the surface of the aluminium caps

against corrosion, moisture, or chemicals. Failure to remove the film within a given period of time may lead

to damage of aluminium paint finish during the later removal of it.

4.6. HOW TO CARE FOR GLASS UNITS

Glass units do not need any special care. They need to be protected against cracking promoting factors.

In addition to the aforementioned, please protect glass units against sash slams, caused by draughts. Do not

leave open windows or doors unattended. Do not turn them at all during strong winds.

Warning!

• Do not clean the glass using powder or abrasive cleaners.

• Never clean stubborn dirt (paint, construction residue mixtures, etc.) using abrasive means (rough

sponges, rags, scissors, knives, razor blades, etc.). They may scratch the glass surface. If after several times of

glass cleaning with chemical detergents, there fat stains appear, it means you are using an inappropriate

cleaner. Try to remove the stains using the other cleaner suitable for glass units. Before using the above

cleaners, please read the operating instructions.

5. WINDOW FOGGING

What is condensate? Humidity depositing on windows or doors is water condensate. It is formed from

water vapour contained in the air. It may occur both on the outside as well as on the inner surface of the glass.

Why is condensate formed? When warm, moist air comes in contact with the cooler surfaces, the

excess moisture condenses in the air. This is because the cool air right above the cool surface is unable to

maintain the moisture in it, like the surrounding warm air. Window fogging can be a warning signal. This

might mean that the indoor humidity is likely to cause invisible damage to other areas of Your home.

How does the indoor humidity occur? There are many factors that contribute to increased moisture

content in the air. A four-adult family, through usual sweating and breathing, releases about 0.30 litres of

water vapour per hour. When cooking three times a day, about 2.30 to 2.80 litres of water vapour is emitted

into the air. One showering – additional 0.30 litres of water vapour. Besides, any other activities involving

water (dishwashing, floor washing, laundry, etc.) humidifies the air. The more water vapour in the air is, the

higher the relative air humidity. Other sources of humidity: house plants, natural gas burning, drying, and so

on.

What is relative humidity? The air can “hold” a limited amount of water vapour only. This amount

depends on the air temperature. When a certain temperature air is maximally saturated with such amount of

water vapour that the air is capable to hold, the relative humidity is 100%. If case of half of the amount that

the air is capable to hold - relative air humidity is 50%. Colder air is able to hold a lower amount of water

vapour than warm one. Thus, there is less water vapour in the air of 10°C heat and 100% humidity than in the

air of 20°C heat and 100% humidity.







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How to measure the indoor relative humidity? You may use a moisture meter known as a

hygrometer. This is an inexpensive device available in many household wares and tools shops.

What are the symptoms of excess moisture? Window fogging is often a sign of excess moisture

indoors. Check if there is no water or ice on your windows. Make sure, there are no wet spots on the ceiling

or cabinets. Water-filled bladders on the outside wall paint layers can also indicate excessive moisture

indoors.

Does relative humidity affect health? Many scientists and doctors agree that the relative air humidity

affects human health. Recommended indoor humidity is 30% to 50%. According to experts of the World

Health Organization, over 65% relative humidity increases the risk of upper respiratory tract diseases,

besides, such moisture content has a negative impact on patients with asthma or allergies. Lower relative

humidity (<30%) may cause skin dryness, itchiness.

What can excess moisture do to my home? Air moisture excess accelerates physical wear and tear of

a house. Moisture penetrates the house walls and other structures. It may accumulate in hollow cavities and

freeze in the cold season. Upon ice expansion, it slowly erodes the house structures year after year. While, in

the warm season, it melts, thus, causing damp ceilings, walls. Moreover, mold develops in excess moisture.

Does condensate form in winter only? The condensate usually forms during the winter season, yet, it

may also develop when the water vapour in the air contacts the surface of a temperature lower than the dew

point (a temperature at which the air becomes saturated with water vapour and releases dew). E.g., in cold

winter days, humidity of the warm indoor air may condense on the normally cooler glass surface. More

rarely, outside condensation on the windows may form in the spring and autumn (even more rarely – in hot

and humid summer days). Usually this means that the window holds heat inside quite well.

Does the condensation intensity depend on a type of a house? Generally, it does. In the past, when

people did not care about the energy saving, many houses were not as tight, as newly constructed ones.

Thermal insulation materials were unsophisticated. Walls and ceilings were made of more porous materials;

windows were leaking and held warmth several times poorer than modern wooden or PVC (plastic) windows.

Thus, the water vapour in the air could more easily move to and from premises. New construction

technologies, heat-insulating materials make modern houses much tighter and more money-saving in terms of

energy consumption. So are modern windows – heat saving and tight. In an airtight room, a moisture,

resulting from a bathroom, kitchen, laundry, plants, people, etc., increases the relative indoor humidity. In

more adverse conditions, such moisture is harmful and destructive.

How are moisture and comfort interrelated? Feeling comfortable at home depends on many factors,

including temperature and air, relative humidity, air movement, indoor surface temperature, amount of light,

the intensity of solar radiation. Since moisture is one of the main factors of comfort, you should carefully

monitor and adjust the amount of it at home in both winter and summer. Some people believe that the

increased humidity at home provides greater comfort in the winter. They think that it is easier to breathe in

more humid air. However, in case of humid indoor air, the human body does not release its moisture as much

as it should. It also increases the likelihood of colds. Sometimes it happens that the indoor air needs

additional humidification, since a dry air affects negatively the human body as well. So, you need to keep

track of your home environment and make it comfortable and healthy for You and your family. Most people

feel good at 30-50% relative humidity and at about 20-22°C indoors. Probably, many of you have felt

discomfort in summer when there is a very high temperature and humid weather. To increase labour

productivity, to improve sleep and well-being, we increasingly resort to indoor air conditioners, with the

primary purpose to remove excess moisture during the summer. Well-being in summer depends on many

factors: air temperature, surface temperature, relative humidity, air movement, and direct solar radiation.

Majority feels good in the summer when indoor relative humidity is 25-55%, and air temperature is 22-28°C.

Can I can reduce a temperature and save energy if I increase relative air humidity in winter? You may think that there is a relationship between relative air humidity and feeling warm, however, the

human body quickly gets used to the fluctuations in humidity levels. So, if you feel cold at 18°C, moisture

content does not matter. At a higher or lower moisture, you will feel cold anyway.







VAT code: LT100001935816 Tel.: +370 614 70496




Apart from switching a humidifier off, how else can I still reduce humidity in the room?

• Regularly ventilate the room and, upon a more intensive activity in your home (more people in the

room, more cooking in the kitchen, more frequent laundry, drying in the rooms), ventilate more often (if

windows have air vents, this does not mean that they ventilate sufficiently – it depends on your family’s life

style). When ventilating, turn off heating devices or reduce their operation, thus, saving energy.

• Do not line-dry on heating devices near the window (dry in bathrooms, balconies, or in other

designated places).

• When cooking in the kitchen, use a cooker hood. When washing in the bath or shower, turn on a fan

until mirror does not fog. However, be careful and do not use the fan for too long, it may overheat.

• Do not store firewood at home or in basements, they release moisture while drying.

• Do not grow too many plants.

• If your home is equipped with a mechanical ventilation system, make sure a fresh air comes in.

• If the outside air temperature goes down, you should reduce the amount of moisture in your home.

You can do it by reducing the amount of moisture sources.

Does the amount of condensate depend on a type of windows? Bow and green house windows

usually fog up more often because of insufficient air circulation at the window surface. In addition, they are

cooler as do not contact directly with external walls of a building. In such cases, it is advised to use additional

electric blow heaters which improve the circulation of warm air nearby the windows. High windows

(showcases) fog up more frequently if a window frame is not sufficiently heat-insulated.

Does the window fogging depend on the presence of curtains, roller blinds, or internal louvers? Curtains and other window coverings may increase the likelihood of condensation, because they disturb the

circulation of warm air at the window surfaces from heating appliances. So, windows can fog more intensely

in case of pulled down curtains, roller blinds, or internal louvers.

Why is about 3 cm wide condensate edge formed around the border of the glass? A similar-width

condensate may be formed at the border of the frame and the glass due to the fact that the glass unit frame is

aluminium, which, like other metals, transmits cold and cools down the glass. The condensation forms in

such colder point of the glass pane. Since the middle of the glass remains warmer than its border at the frame,

it does not fog up. The resulting condensate strip does not mean that the window is of inadequate quality or

that it transmits cold inside. It is recommended to use plastic (Swisspacer™ or Thermix™) instead of

aluminium frames. Plastic retains heat much better, a glass surface next to the frame is warmer; this reduces

the likelihood of condensation. This also improves thermal performance of the window.

Why is condensation formed inside a glass pane (inside a frame and a sash)? All hinged parts are

air leaking to some extent. Where a warmer and more humid air comes into contact with a cooler air or

surfaces, it releases moisture while getting cold. This moisture is condensed on the window frames and inner

sash parts. To prevent the accumulation of condensate on such window surfaces and to make it drain outside,

condensate drain cavities are designed inside an aluminium drip strip. If the cavities are clogged,

condensation may accumulate inside the frame, the accumulated water may run into the premises and turn

into ice in the cold season, thus, damaging, deforming or, even, breaking a glass pane. Therefore, it is

important not to forget to check sometimes whether condensate drain cavities in Your windows are not

clogged with mud or debris.

Why is condensation formed on the outside of windows? Dew on the outside of the windows is a

natural phenomenon. This happens to most outdoor surfaces if their temperature drops below the dew point of







VAT code: LT100001935816 Tel.: +370 614 70496




the outdoor temperature. But it certainly does not mean that Your windows are of poor quality. In fact,

external condensation indicates that the window retains heat inside quite well (heat does not pass to the outer

surface of the window).

Can condensation damage windows? Condensation can make paint and varnish come off the

windows or doors, deform glazing. After a long-term moisture, a window or a door swells and changes its

shape, thus, may close non-tightly or not to close at all. Developed molds may penetrate the wood, make it

rot; window appearance gets worse. Window renewal requires considerable time, effort, and money.

Are there cases where the window condensation is a temporary phenomenon? There are three

cases in which the window condensation is temporary: 1. New construction, repairs, and finishing: wood,

plaster, cement, and other construction materials, used for new construction or renovation, are a considerable

source of moisture. When the heating season starts, the moisture is released outside the structures into indoor

air. Normally, this drying process in structures takes one heating season. 2. Heating season: at the beginning

of the heating season, a temporary condensation may occur. Over humid days of summer, house structures

absorb a certain amount of moisture which disappears after a few weeks of the heating season. 3.

Temperature fluctuations: sudden, severe indoor or outdoor air temperature drop may also cause temporary

condensation during the heating season.

Why is condensation formed between panes of a glass unit? Condensation between panes of a glass

unit is one of the most unlikeable and annoying problems. This phenomenon is not only disturbs the view

through the window, but also, after evaporation, leaves stains on the glass surface inside the glass unit. Such

condensate formation means a damaged glass unit sealant, which is intended to hold a gas that fills up a glass

unit. This is why a glass unit retains thermal properties for a long time. A leaky sealant is usually a glass unit

manufacturing defect. In this case, with regard to the manufacturer's warranty, be sure to contact the

manufacturer to replace the glass unit. However, there are cases of leaky sealant as a result of high water

content inside the window, on the frame, at the glass unit. It accumulates due to the clogged condensate drain

cavities (you can see them in the sash from below). The water, affecting the sealant for a long time, penetrates

it, thus, making a glass unit fogging between the panes. In this case, the glass unit is not covered by the

warranty, and the owner is responsible for this fault. In order to avoid such errors, please be sure to check if

the condensate drain cavities are not clogged to prevent water from entering through the wall structures inside

the window (between the pane and the frame).

How to ventilate a house?

• In the morning, open the windows and ventilate a room for about 20-30 minutes (especially, a

bedroom and a bathroom).

• If your windows have vents, they do not ensure absolute and adequate ventilation. Ventilate rooms 3

to 4 times a day. Make a draught so ventilate rooms faster. Ventilate after cooking, taking a shower or bath.

• When ventilating rooms, reduce or turn off the heat.

• Heating an accumulated humid air in rooms is more expensive than a fresh let-in air. Heat the space

evenly, if a night temperature is below 5°C and more, the condensation on the cooler surfaces (wall corners,

windows, etc.) is likely possible.

6.1. JSC “VUDESTA” PROVIDES WARRANTY TO

6.1.1 sash and case frame – 5 years;

6.1.2 glass units – 5 years;

6.1.3 aluminium drip strips and caps – 5 years;

6.1.4 fittings (handles, locks, hinges, etc.) – 10 years;

6.1.5 seal and silicone joints – 5 years;

6.1.6 paint or varnish coating – no longer than the period after which the product is recommended to be

repainted.







VAT code: LT100001935816 Tel.: +370 614 70496




6.2. BY SELLING PRODUCTS WITHOUT INSTALLATION SERVICES, JSC “VUDESTA”

WARRANTS DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD THAT:

6.2.1 a glass unit will not fog up between glass panes, no dust or stains will occur;

6.2.2 hinges will hold a hinged part and will not break off for its weight or corrode;

6.2.3 prevailing outside weather will not cause irreparable defects of a cover or a frame;

6.2.4 a frame will not crack from its weight or a quality of the material, if installed according to the

manufacturer's instructions and with regard to above mentioned indoor climate conditions;

6.2.5 aluminium drip strips will not deform due to weather conditions, paint will not come off;

6.2.6 paint or varnish coating will not come off or crack, provided that the above mentioned indoor

climate conditions are regarded;

6.2.7 seals and silicone joint will retain elasticity and will not crack.

6.3. BY SELLING PRODUCTS WITH INSTALLATION SERVICES, JSC “VUDESTA”

WARRANTS DURING THE WARRANTY PERIOD THAT:

6.3.1. a glass unit will not fog up between glass panes, no dust or stains will occur;

6.3.2. a glass unit will not crack for natural deformations of the frame. Thermal, mechanical cracks,

cracks due to pressure fluctuations or increased loads on the window are not covered by the warranty;

6.3.3. hinges will hold a hinged part and will not break off for its weight or corrode; inside fixtures will

not break while properly using windows and doors;

6.3.4. prevailing outside weather will not cause irreparable defects of a cover or a frame;

6.3.5. a frame will not crack from its weight or a quality of the material, provided that the above

mentioned indoor climate conditions are regarded;

6.3.6. aluminium drip strips will not deform due to weather conditions, paint will not come off;

6.3.7. paint or varnish coating will not come off or crack, provided that the above mentioned indoor

climate conditions are regarded;

6.3.8. seals and silicone joint will retain elasticity and will not crack;

6.3.9. the seal-sash and the frame-wall joints will retain air-tightness (where the frame-wall air-

tightness is provided for in a contract).




Wooden windows and doors WOODEN WINDOW AND DOOR...

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