DAPHNE SENSEI

PROJECT #POCKETS

03BERNICE CHUAKEIKO TANAKA

MAY 28, 2013

THE WELT POCKETWITH FLAP

Drafting the pocket

THE WELT POCKETWITH FLAP

01 STEP

02 STEP

13 cm

2.5 cm

Mark pocket opening on sample base, making sure that pocket is big enough to insert your hand through. In this case, pocket opening is 13 cm x 2.5 cm. Mark grainline on pattern.

Draw the bottom welt on the pocket opening. Height of the welt is 1.5 cm.

13 cm

2.5 cm1.5 cm

03 STEP

04 STEP

13 cm

7 cm

6.2 cm

1.5 cm

4.1 cm

13 cm

19 cm

7 cm

6.2 cm

22 cm

1.5 cm

4.1 cm

Since the stripes on the pocket �aps need to match with the stripes on the sample base, align stripes on scrap piece of fabric to sample base and then using a scrap piece of drafting paper, mark the position of the �ap and stripes. Transfer draft to the master pattern.

Duplicate �ap on other side of pocket opening. Pocket �ap’s grain line would be di�erent from the main grainline.

Draw the pocket bag around the pocket opening, making sure it is deep and wide enough.

Draft out individual pieces and add 1 cm seam allowance. For pocket bag, since it would be folded at the bottom, add pocket bag’s dimensions again below fold line. Welt would be folded from pocket bag so add another 3 cm (1.5 cm + 1.5cm) to pocket bag’s width.

2.5 cm

2.5 cm

Instructions to build the pocket

THE WELT POCKETWITH FLAP

01 STEP

02 STEP

Mark pocket opening on sample base and pocket bag.

Pin both pieces together carefully and precisely around pocket opening, right side of fabric facing in.

03 STEP

04 STEP

05 STEP

Stitch around pocket opening, making sure to stitch the corners of the pocket opening neatly and accurately.

Check that stripes are matching

Mark a line in the centre of the pocket opening. Fold pocket into half and snip in the middle.

06 STEP

07 STEP

08 STEP

Continue cutting until about 1.5 cm away from edge of pocket opening. Cut a “V” shape like in the picture, making sure to cut carefully and as closely as possible to the stitch line to get a nicely de�ned 90 degree angle after pushing the pocket bag through.

Push pocket bag through and iron.

Fold welt up from pocket bag (1.5 cm) and iron �at.

09 STEP

10 STEP

11 STEP

Flip up sample base and stitch again on the stitch line to �x welt.

Sew and bag out �aps, making sure to sew at the same position for both �aps so that stripes will be nicely mirrored after attaching. Top stitch �aps to �atten and �x shape.

Insert �aps into pocket opening, making sure to match the stripes evenly and pin down to secure.

12 STEP

13 STEP

Top stitch around pocket opening to secure �aps, making sure that stripes on the �ap are matching the top and bottom stripes of sample base.

Fold up pocket bag and stitch the sides, preferably with a 2 cm allowance to accommodate �nishing of the edges with overlocking or binding.

USAGES

THE WELT POCKETWITH FLAPWelt pockets usually have one or two welts or strips, called lips, stitched to the pocketopening (sometimes called the mouthline) with the pocket bag on the inside of the garment. Welt pockets are sometimes called slash pockets which are set into a slash on the garment.The welt pocket can also be stylised with �aps.

Di�erent types of welt pockets:

Applied Welt Pocket: This is a separate welt that is applied to the garment. It is sometimes called outside or tailored welt, breast or handkerchief pocket. This pocket is most commonly found as the chest pocket on menswear blazers.

Besom Welt Pocket: This is a slashed pocket with a wide welt at the bottom and a narrow welt at the top.

Double Welt Pocket: This is a pocket with two welts at the opening. It looks like a large button hole and is called by many names like double bound, double lip or piped pockets. When used with a �ap, the �ap can be inserted between the welts or above the upper welt.

Welts are used on tailored garments like jackets, coats, vests and trousers and can be decorativeor utilitarian. They can be located on any grain and can be used alone or with a �ap or fasteninglike a button or snap. When they are made without a �ap, it becomes more decorative thanutilitarian since the pocket will gape over time due to lack of strength.

Before incorporating welt pockets into garment design, several factors have to be considered �rstincluding fabric weight, texture and print which will then a�ect how the pocket would be constructed since there are many ways to achieve the same outlook.

STYLES VARIATIONS

THE WELT POCKETWITH FLAP

Curved double welt pocket with contrasting colour welts. Double welt pocket with �ap. The welt and the underside of the �ap are done with a striped fabric cut on the bias. The stripes arethen laid out in contrasting directions creating a herringbonepattern.

Single welt back pocket of pants. Side of the pockets are reinforced with 2 contrast fabric piecings. The pocket also has a button fastening.

Single welt chest pocket of shirt. The bottom welt does not cover the whole pocket opening.

Double welt inside pocket of vest with zipper. Double welt back pocket of pants with leather welts and selffabric piecing around pocket opening.

Fancy welt pocket with overlapping bottom welts in a chevron design. Bottom welts also do not cover the whole pocket opening.

Overlapping double welt front pocket of jacket. Top welt covers the whole pocket opening and bottom welt.

Detached single welt pocket of side pocket of pants.

Fancy single welt chest pocket of shirt. Bottom welt of contrasting colour and fabric inserted into pocket opening.

Layered single welt pocket of jacket. Note the play on proportions to add interest.

Extended top welt back pocket of pants that acts as a �ap. We assume there’s a bottom welt underneath the �ap.

REFERENCES

1) Joseph-Armstrong, Helen. Pattern Making for Fashion Design. New Jersey: Pearson Education Inc., publishing as Prentice Hall, 2010.

2) Shae�er, Claire. Sew Any Set-in Pocket. Pennsylvania: Chilton Book Company, 1994.

3) http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/93218-bnwt-robert-geller-%E2% 80%93-leather-welt-pocket-jean-black-size-50/. January 10, 2010.

4) http://www.themakeden.com/workshops/bound-buttonholes-and-welt-pockets/ The Make Den Sewing Studio.

5) http://www.picstopin.com/680/used-pocket-welt-machines-brother-606-611-eagle- 1002-1005-reece-46-47/http:||www*fusing*co*uk|used|n291-s1*jpg/.

6）http://shop.beams.co.jp/

7) http://subscribe.ru/archive/woman.beauty.secondstreet/201305/04104557.html

8) http://riccardotisci.blogspot.jp/2012/09/givenchy-ss-2013.html