Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns

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Transcript of Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns

Page 1: Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns
Page 2: Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns

Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns

Copyright 2014 by Prime Publishing LLC

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Dear Crocheter,

Winter is quickly approaching, leaving us minimal time to prepare our little ones for the cool

chill. Without hesitation, grab your favorite skeins of worsted weight or bulky yarn and the

appropriate hook size so that you can work up these winter wearables for your toddlers. The

baby crochet patterns we have in this eBook will keep your kids warm and stylish throughout

the season. From outdoor wearables like sweaters and jackets, to boots, leg warmers and hats,

your little ones will love running around in their new designs.

Sometimes it's tough to get your toddlers ready for playtime outside because they're just too

excited to get out there; better yet, they don't want to load up on all the winter gear. By

having cute crochet designs from this new collection your little one will love getting ready for

playtime. These patterns are calling your name, so start hooking.

With the best dresses, coats, hats, and other wearables, there is no doubt that your kids and

toddlers will be ready for the first snowfall of the season. That’s always the most exciting time

of winter, because everyone is anxious to play in the snow, make snow angels, and throw

snowballs everywhere. Even your super little one can have fun outside with these cute baby

crochet patterns for winter.

Don’t worry about them being cold when you take advantage of these fun toddler and baby

crochet patterns. They are the best ones around when the cold season hits!

Happy Hooking!

Sincerely,

The Editors of AllFreeCrochet

AllFreeCrochet.com

Our eBooks, like all of our craft projects, are absolutely FREE to members of our crafting community. Please feel free to share with family and friends and ask them to sign up at our website for our free e-mail newsletter, Hooked on Crochet.

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Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns

Table of Contents

Jackets and Sweaters ..................................................................... 5

Favorite Fall Toddler Dress ........................................................................... 5

The Simplest Toddler Sweater ................................................................... 10

Rainbows and Lolli Pops Baby Tunic ........................................................... 16

Pea Wee Coat ............................................................................................ 19

Crocheted Hats ............................................................................ 26

Precious Puppy Dog Hat ............................................................................. 26

C is for Cookie Monster Hat ....................................................................... 32

Stylish Eskimo Baby Hat ............................................................................. 36

Pink Ruffle Hat ........................................................................................... 41

Footwear ..................................................................................... 43

Kids Striped Crochet Boots Pattern ............................................................ 43

Bubblegum Baby Leg Warmers .................................................................. 45

Baby Shower Booties ................................................................................. 47

Special Thanks ............................................................................. 49

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Jackets and Sweaters

Favorite Fall Toddler Dress

By: Corina Gray from Stitch 11

Just in time for the fall season, along with the new

school year, this Favorite Fall Toddler Dress is sure to

be a hit with your little girl and all her friends. The

gray, pink and purple crochet colors look fabulous

together; the florescent pink really pops. DIY clothing

like this is worked up with the single crochet and half

double crochet stitches, and then embellished with

the cutest buttons you can find around town. You

can even work up a matching pair of legwarmers

(pattern not included).

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with Caron Simply Soft Yarn, one skein Gray, half skein Pink, and

half skein Purple

Crochet Hooks (G/6 or 4 mm) and (H/8 or 5 mm)

Yarn Needle

Pack of 20 buttons (optional)

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: Fits toddler sizes from 2t-4t.

Notes: 1. You will want to take the time to learn the FSC if you do not already know it. Using this stitch will allow the neck of the dress to stretch over all of those big headed toddlers! 2. Your chains do not count as stitches.

Instructions:

Using G hook and purple yarn

Row 1: 68 Foundation Single Crochet. Join to first FSC. (68)

Row 2: CH 1, SC into same stitch and each stitch around. Join to first SC. (68)

Row 3: CH 1, HDC in same stitch and next 16 stitches. CH 2, HDC in same stitch. **HDC in next

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17 stitches. CH 2, HDC in same stitch. Repeat from ** two more times. Join to first HDC. (76)

Row 4: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and next 16 stitches. {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into chain space.

**HDC into next 18 stitches, {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into CH space. Repeat from ** two more times.

HDC into last stitch. Join to first HDC. (80)

Row 5: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and next 17 stitches. {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into chain space.

**HDC into next 20 stitches, {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into CH space. Repeat from ** two more times.

HDC into last 2 stitches. Join to first HDC. (88)

Row 6: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and next 18 stitches. {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into chain space.

**HDC into next 22 stitches, {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into CH space. Repeat from ** two more times.

HDC into last 3 stitches. Join to first HDC. (96)

Row 7: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and next 19 stitches. {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into chain space.

**HDC into next 24 stitches, {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into CH space. Repeat from ** two more times.

HDC into last 4 stitches. Join to first HDC. (104)

Row 8: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and next 20 stitches. {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into chain space.

**HDC into next 26 stitches, {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into CH space. Repeat from ** two more times.

HDC into last 5 stitches. Join to first HDC. (112)

Row 9: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and next 21 stitches. {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into chain space.

**HDC into next 28 stitches, {HDC, CH 2, HDC} into CH space. Repeat from ** two more times.

HDC into last 6 stitches. Join to first HDC. (120)

Finish off and attach same color into CH space.

Row 10: CH 1, 2 HDC into CH space. CH 11. 2 HDC into next CH space. HDC into next 30

stitches. 2 HDC into CH space. CH 11. HDC into next 22 stitches. Join to first HDC. (68)

Row 11: CH 1, HDC into same stitch. HDC into each stitch and each CH around. Join to first

HDC. (90)

Finish off and attach same color yarn into one of the stitches around the arm hole.

Row 12: CH 1, SC into same stitch and each stitch around the arm hole (1 SC for each HDC, 2

SC into the side of the HDC and 1 SC for each CH (46)

Repeat Row 12 for other arm hole.

Finish off and weave in your ends.

Attach new color (pink) to bottom of piece. -In the back loop only- Attach to the center under

the armpit.

Row 13: In back loops only for this round. CH 1, 2 HDC into same stitch. HDC in next 44

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stitches. 2 HDC into next stitch. HDC in next 44 stitches. Join to first HDC. (92 HDC)

Row 14-16: CH 1, HDC in same stitch and each stitch around. Join to first HDC (92)

Finish off

Change color to gray and attach yarn into the bottom of the stripe of row 16. -Attach into the

center stitch under the armpit. IN BACK LOOP ONLY

Now using H hook

Row 17: Crochet in back loop only for this row. CH 1, SC into same stitch and each stitch

around. Join to top of first SC. (92)

Row 18: CH 1, HDC in same stitch and in next 9 stitches. *2 HDC into next stitch HDC into next

stitch. repeat from * 12 more times. HDC into next 20 stitches. **2 HDC into next stitch HDC

into next stitch. repeat from ** 12 more times. HDC into next 10 stitches. Join to first HDC.

(118)

Row 19: HDC in same stitch and next 9 stitches. *2 HDC into next stitch. HDC into next 2

stitches. Repeat from * 12 more times. HDC into next 20 stitches. **2 HDC into next stitch.

HDC into next 2 stitches. Repeat from ** 12 more times. HDC into next 10 stitches. Join to first

HDC. (136)

Row 20: CH 1, SC in same stitch. CH 1. Skip one stitch. * SC into next stitch. CH 1. Skip one

stitch. Repeat from * around. Join to first SC. (68)

Row 21-22: CH 1, SC in same SC. CH 1. Skip CH. * SC in next SC, CH 1. Skip CH. Repeat from *

around. Join to first SC. (68)

Row 23-43: CH 1, HDC into same stitch. CH 1. Skip CH. *HDC into next stitch. CH 1. Skip CH.

Repeat from * around. Join to first HDC. (68)

Row 44: CH 1, HDC into the same stitch. HDC into each chain and each stitch around. Join to

first HDC. (136)

Finish off. Change colors to pink, attaching to back loops only.

Note: It may help to actually count and attach the yarn 11 stitches left of the seam, to help the

seam stay on the side of the dress.

Row 45: Crochet into back loops for this row. CH 1, HDC into same stitch and each stitch

around. Join to first HDC. (136)

Row 46: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and each stitch around. Join to first HDC. (136)

Finish off. Change colors to purple, attaching to back loops only.

Row 47: Crochet into back loops for this row. CH 1, HDC into same stitch and each stitch

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around. Join to first HDC. (136)

Row 48-49: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and each stitch around. Join to first HDC. (136)

Finish off. Change colors to pink, attaching to back loops only.

Row 50: Crochet into back loops for this row. CH 1, HDC into same stitch and each stitch

around. Join to first HDC. (136)

Row 51: CH 1, HDC into same stitch and each stitch around. Join to first HDC. (136)

Finish off. Change colors to gray, attaching to back loops only.

Row 52: Crochet into back loops for this row. CH 1, SC into same stitch and each stitch around.

.Join to first SC. (136)

Finish off and weave in your ends. This is where you can attach the buttons about 7 stitches

apart, counting 7 HDC between each button. Model uses 19 buttons total.

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The Simplest Toddler Sweater

By: Lorene Haythorn Eppolite from Cre8tion Crochet

Get your toddler ready for the fall season

and a new school year with The Simplest

Toddler Sweater. This crochet design was

made with simplicity in mind. A few

different crochet stitches are used in this

crochet sweater pattern, which is great for

practicing your skills. You can work it up in

stripes or use solid crochet colors, but the

hood and buttons up the front are what

really completes this pattern. Made for

both boys and girls, your little one can be

super stylish this season.

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with 2 skeins of Red Heart’s With Love o CA: Grey; CB: Pink; CC: Blue; CD: Purple; CE: Green

Crochet Hook (I/9 or 5.5 mm)

Embroidery Needle

Skill Level: Easy

Finished Size: Neck to waist- 13.5” Side to side- 13” Total sleeve length- 13” Sleeve length from armpit to cuff- 8” Neck opening- 7” wide or 14” in diameter Total wingspan- 30”

Notes: 1. The ch3 will count as your 1st dc in each row, the next dc should be placed in the 2nd st. Except for the hood, where th ch3 will still count as the 1st dc BUT you will place the next dc in the same st, this is specified in the pattern as well. 2. You can do color changes any way that works best for you. The useful method: Begin last dc

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in each row. After the first yarn over and pull through you will have two loops remaining on hook, pull up new color and draw through last two remaining loops on hook. Tie tails tightly. 3. There are two parts of the directions that require that you place stitch markers. This is so that you can properly line up the hood and the button holes. It is recommended that you use yarn of an alternate color to mark these rows. You may want to use two different colors for the two different places where you need to mark. 4. The sleeves are written using a seamless method.

Special Stitches: fdc- foundation double crochet Chain 3 (counts as 1st fdc). Yarn over and insert hook in 3rd chain from hook. *Yarn over and pull up loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 1 loop creating a sl st, (this is an important step but easy to forget). Yarn over again and pull through first two loops on hook (two loops remaining). Yarn over again and pull through last two loops on hook. This completes the second fdc (remember your 1st ch3 counted as the 1st fdc). To stitch the next fdc, yarn over and insert the hook into the sl st made in the 2nd fdc and repeat from *

dc2tog- double crochet two together yarn over, insert hook into 1st st, yarn over and pull through st, (three loops on hook), insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull through, (four loops on hook), yarn over, pull through first two loops on hook, yarn over again and pull through last two loops on hook

Instructions:

Step 1. Starting with CA (grey) Fdc 56- change to CB (pink)

Step 2. Ch3 (counts as the 1st dc in every row) and turn. 1dc in each of the next 9 sts. V st in

the next st. 1dc in each of the next 6sts. V st in the next st. 1dc in each of the next 20sts. V st in

the next st. 1dc in each of the next 6sts. V st in the next st. 1dc in each of the remaining 10sts.

<52dc and 4 V sts>

Step 3. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 10sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

8sts sps. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 22sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 8sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 11sts. Change to CC (blue). <60dc

and 4 V sts>

Step 4. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 11sts. V st in the ch1sp. 1dc in each of the next

10sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 24sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 10sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 12sts. Change to CA (grey). <68dc

and 4 V sts>

Step 5. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 12sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

12sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 26sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

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next 12sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 13sts. Change to CD (purple). <76dc

and 4 V sts>

Step 6. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 13sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

14s.ts V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 28sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 14sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 14sts. <84dc and 4 V sts>

Step 7. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 14sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

16sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 30sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 16sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 15sts. Change to CA (grey). <92dc

and 4 V sts>

Step 8. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 15sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

18sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 32sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 18sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 16sts. <100dc and 4 V sts>

Step 9. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 16sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

20sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 34sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 20sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 17sts. Change to CE (green). <108dc

and 4 V sts>

Step 10. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 17sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

22sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next 36sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the

next 22sts. V st in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 18sts. Change to CB (pink). <116dc

and 4 V sts>

Step 11. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 18sts. 1dc in the ch1 sp. Ch1 and skip the next

24sts, fold the piece in half and 1dc in the next ch1 sp (this space will become your 1st arm

hole, you will stitch the sleeve in a later step). 1dc in each of the next 38sts. 1dc in the ch1 sp.

Ch1 and skip the next 24sts, fold the piece in half again and 1dc in the next ch1 sp (this space

will become your 2nd arm hole, you will stitch the sleeve in a later step). 1dc in each of the

remaining 19sts. <20dc, 1ch, 40dc, 1ch, 20dc>

Step 12. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in each of the next 20sts. 1dc in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the next

40sts. 1dc in the ch1 sp. 1dc in each of the remaining 20sts. Change to CA (grey). <82dc>

Step 13. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CC (blue). <82dc>

Step 14. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. <82dc>

Step 15. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CD (purple). <82dc>

Step 16. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CA (grey). <82dc>

Step 17. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. <82dc>

Step 18. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CE (green). <82dc>

Step 19. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. <82dc>

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Step 20. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CA (grey). <82dc>

Step 21. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CB (pink). <82dc>

Step 22. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. Change to CC (blue). <82dc>

Step 23. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. <82dc>

Step 24. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in every st across. <82dc>. Fasten off

Step 25. Place stitch markers in the first (fdc) row. (I use a different color piece of yarn tied in a

loop). Place stitch markers in a bit so that they don’t interfere when you stitch the edging.

Sleeves:

Follow color changes of the body for sleeves.

Step 1. Attach yarn to the ch in center under arm. *Ch2 and skip the next st. 1dc in every st

around. place the last dc in the sp previously left empty. sl st into the top of the 1st dc to join

round. <25>

Step 2. Repeat from * for 10 more rows. Following the color changes of the body of sweater.

<25>

Step 3. Ch2 and skip the next st. 1dc in each of the next 6sts. dc2tog. 1dc in each of the

remaining 17sts. <24>

Step 4. Ch2 and skip the next st. 1dc in each of the next 5sts. dc2tog. 1dc in each of the

remaining 16sts. <23>

Step 5. Change to CA (grey). 1sc in every st. join round with sl st. <23>

Step 6. 1sc in every st. join round with sl st. <23>

Step 7. Sl st around to finish. Be sure not to sl st too tightly. Fasten off and weave in tail. <23>

Repeat for other arm.

Hood

Step 1. With sweater facing you.

Attach CA yarn at top left hand corner.

Ch3 and 1dc in the same st. 1dc in

each of the next 6sts. dc2tog 3x. 1dc in

the next st. dc2tog 3x. 1dc in each of

the next 16sts. dc2tog 3x. 1dc in the

next st. dc2tog 3x. 1dc in each of the

remaining 7sts. <45>

Step 2. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same

st. 1dc in each of the next 6sts. dc2tog

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3x. 1dc in each of the next 18sts. dc2tog 3x. 1dc in each of the remaining 8sts. <40>

Step 3. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same st. 1dc in each of the next 18sts. dc2tog. 1dc in each of

the remaining 19sts. <40>

Step 4. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same st. 1dc in every st across. <41>

Step 5. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same st. 1dc in every st across. <42>

Step 6. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same st. 1dc in every st across. <43>

Step 7. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same st. 1dc in each of the next 19sts. dc2tog. 1dc in each of

the remaining 21sts. <43>

Steps 8- 17. Repeat Line 7- (for 10 repeats of line 7)

Step 18. Ch3 and turn. 1dc in the same st. 1dc in each of the next 18sts. dc2tog 2x. 1dc in each

of the remaining 20sts. <42> Mark rows 3, 6, 9, 12 & 15 with stitch markers on either side (I

use a different color piece of yarn tied in a loop). Place stitch markers in a bit so that they

don’t interfere when you stitch the edging.

Step 19. The correct side of the sweater should be facing you. Fold hood in half towards the

back. Turn entire piece around and line up edges. You can either sl st or whip st to the center

fold to close off. Fasten off and weave in tail.

Finishing off:

You can stitch over the tails from color changes when you finish off or you can leave them till

the end and weave them in. Weave them in for a neater finished look.

Where you begin your finishing is very important. Be sure to start in the space you

started the hood. Insert your needle in the ridge where the first row of the hood meets

the body of the sweater. At the 1st st marker.

The hood will be stitched around 3x. The body will only be stitched around 2x.

The 2nd row around the hood will be dc. All other rows will be sc.

Step 1. Attach CA and sc around the entire hood (to space evenly place 1sc in the ridge of

every row and 1sc in the center of the ch in every row). Place 3sc in corners. Sl st to join row.

Step 2. 1hdc in the next st (at the first set of stitch markers) 1dc in every st around the hood.

When you get to your stitch markers at rows 3, 6, 9, 12 on either side, and when you get to the

top (ridge) of the hood you will dc2tog. 1hdc in the last st of the hood (where you placed your

first set of stitch markers). [1sc in the next st. Ch3. 1sc in the next st] to make 1st button hole

(this first button hole should line up with the bottom ridge of the CA row, where it meets the

CB row) Continue to sc around the body of the sweater placing button holes at the bottom of

every CA (grey) row [1sc in the next st. ch3. 1sc in next st] . 3sc in corners. Sl st to join row.

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Step 3. 1sc in every st around the hood. Where hood meets body of sweater fasten off and

weave in ends. Finish weaving in all tails.

Step 4. Stitch on buttons to coordinate with the button holes. They should be placed in the

ridge on the bottom of where CA meets the next color for added security.

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Rainbows and Lolli Pops Baby Tunic

By: Bernat

Dress your little one for the spring season with this

pastel colored Rainbows and Lolli Pops Baby Tunic. It's

an easy crochet pattern to complete using any color

Bernat Mosaic yarn of your choice. This free crochet

pattern includes instructions on how to make this for a

6, 12, and 18 month old baby. It's worked in two

pieces and features a stylish and modern-looking

picot-edged yoke. This is the perfect item for your

little one to wear on a sunny spring afternoon.

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with Bernat Mosaic: Daydream (44128) 1 (1-2) ball(s)

Crochet Hook (H/8 or 5 mm) Tapestry Needle 2 Buttons

Skill Level: Easy

Size: 6 (12-18) mos

To fit chest measurement

6 mos 17" [43 cm]

12 mos 18" [45.5 cm]

18 mos 19" [48 cm]

Finished chest

6 mos 19" [48 cm]

12 mos 20" [51 cm]

18 mos 21" [53.5 cm]

Gauge: 12 hdc and 10 rows= 4" [10 cm].

Notes:

The instructions are written for smallest size. If changes are necessary for larger sizes the

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instructions will be written thus ( ). Numbers for each size are shown in the same color

throughout the pattern. When only one number is given in black, it applies to all sizes.

Instructions:

Body

Note: Ch 2 at beg of row does not count as st.

Ch 55 (60-65).

1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of chain. Turn. 53 (58-63) hdc.

2nd row: Ch 2. 1 hdc in first hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of next 13 (15-17) hdc. 2 hdc

in next hdc. 1 hdc in each of next 21 (22-23) hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in each hdc to last 2

hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. 1 hdc in last hdc. Turn. 57 (62-67) hdc.

3rd to 17th rows: Ch 3 (counts as dc). *Dcfp. Dcbp. Rep from * to last st. 1 dc in last st. Turn.

Picot edging: Next row: Ch 4. Sl st in 3rd ch from hook, *1 sc in next st. (1 sc. Ch 3. Sl st in 3rd

ch from hook (picot made) in next st. Rep from * to last st. 1 sc in last st. Fasten off.

Yoke

Ch 52 (56-60).

1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch to end of chain. Turn. 50 (54-58) hdc.

2nd row: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 4 hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. Rep from * to last 0 (4-8) hdc. 1

hdc in each of last 0 (4-8) hdc. 60 (64-68) hdc.

3rd row: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 5 hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. Rep from * to last 0 (4-8) hdc. 1

hdc in each of last 0 (4-8) hdc. 70 (74-78) hdc.

4th row: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 6 hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. Rep from * to last 0 (4-8) hdc. 1

hdc in each of last 0 (4-8) hdc. 80 (84-88) hdc.

5th row: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 7 hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. Rep from * to last 0 (4-8) hdc. 1

hdc in each of last 0 (4-8) hdc. 90 (94-98) hdc.

6th row: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 8 hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. Rep from * to last 0 (4-8) hdc. 1

hdc in each of last 0 (4-8) hdc. 100 (104-108) hdc.

7th row: Ch 2. *1 hdc in each of next 9 hdc. 2 hdc in next hdc. Rep from * to last 0 (4-8) hdc. 1

hdc in each of last 0 (4-8) hdc. 110 (114-118) hdc.

Picot edging: Work as for Body.

Finishing:

Place markers across top edge of Body 4 1/4 (4 3/4-5 1/4)" [11 (12-13) cm] in from each side

edge. Pin middle of yoke at center Back between markers and match Yoke sides with sides of

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top edge. Sew Yoke to Body, leaving picot edging free and armhole openings approx 9 1/2" [24

cm] as shown in picture.

Button loops:

With RS facing, join yarn with sl st to left side edge of Yoke. Ch 1. Work 1 sc in side of each of

next 2 rows. (1 sc. Ch 6. Sl st in last sc) in side of next row. 1 sc in side of each of next 3 rows. (1

sc. Ch 6. Sl st in last sc) in side of next row. 1 sc in side of next row. Fasten off.

Right side edging:

With RS facing, join yarn with sl st to right side edge of Yoke. Ch 1. Work 8 sc evenly down side

edge. Fasten off.

Sew buttons on right side edging to correspond with loops.

Check out all of our sweaters and ponchos for little ones!

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Pea Wee Coat

By: Vickie Howell for Vickie Howell and Caron

This Pea Wee Coat for toddlers would be a great

Christmas gift for the little one in your life. This

crochet pattern includes measurements for a 2, 3, and

6 year-old all in one. Vickie Howell’s design will add a

touch of sophistication to any toddler that dons this

adorable jacket. It’s the perfect fashion item for little

girls to wear on special occasions such as Christmas

and Easter. It would also be great for Sunday church

services.

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with Caron Sheep(ish) o A: 0015 Red(ish) 3 (4, 4) skeins o B: 0003 Grey(ish) 1 skein

Crochet Hook (J/10 or 6 mm) 6 Buttons—1"/25mm diameter Sewing Needle and Thread Yarn Needle

Skill Level: Easy

Size: 2 years (4 years, 6 years) Chest: 24 (27, 28)"/61 (68.5, 71)cm Length: 13 3/4 (14 3/4, 15 1/2)"/35 (37.5, 39.5)cm Gauge: In single crochet, 15 sts and 18 rows = 4"/10cm. Special Abbreviations: sc2tog: Single crochet 2 together—Insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, (2 loops on hook), insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and draw up a loop, yarn over and draw through all 3 loops on hook.

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Instructions:

Back

With A, ch 46 (51, 54).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—45 (50, 53) sc.

Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Rows 6–9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each st across, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 9 (9 1/2, 10)"/23 (24, 25.5)cm from beginning.

Shape Armholes

Row 1: Ch 1, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in each sc across to last 4 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, turn—41 (46,

49) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 13 1/4 (14 1/4, 15)"/33.5 (36, 38)cm from beginning.

Shape Shoulders

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, dc in next 4 sts, sc in next 21 (26, 29) sts, dc in

next 4 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Fasten off.

Right Front

With A, ch 34 (38, 40).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—33 (37, 39) sc.

Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Rows 6–9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each st across, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 9 (9 1/2, 10)"/23 (24, 25.5)cm from beginning, end with a

RS row.

Shape Armhole

Row 1: Ch 1, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in each sc across, turn—31 (35, 37) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 13 1/4 (14 1/4, 15)"/33.5 (36, 38)cm from beginning, end

with a RS row.

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Shape Shoulder and Neck

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 10 sts, turn; leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Fasten off.

Left Front

With A, ch 28 (31, 33).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—27 (30, 32) sc.

Rows 2–5: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Rows 6–9: Ch 3 (counts as first dc here and throughout), dc in each st across, turn.

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 4"/10cm from beginning, end with a WS row.

Buttonhole Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first 13 (16, 18) sts, ch 4, sk next 3 sts, sc in next 4 sts, ch 4,

sk next 3 sts, sc in each remaining st across, turn—2 ch-4 sps for buttonholes.

Buttonhole Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, working 3 sc in each ch-4 sp, turn.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 7 1/2 (8, 8 1/2)"/19 (20.5, 21.5)cm from beginning, end

with a WS row.

Repeat Buttonhole Rows 1 and 2.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 9 (9 1/2, 10)"/23 (24, 25.5)cm from beginning, end with a

WS row.

Shape Armhole

Row 1: Ch 1, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in each sc across, turn—25 (28, 30) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 11 (12, 13)"/28 (30.5, 33)cm from beginning, end with a

WS row.

Buttonhole Row 1 (RS): Ch 1, sc in first 11 (14, 16) sts, ch 4, sk next 3 sts, sc in next 4 sts, ch 4,

sk next 3 sts, sc in each remaining st across, turn.

Buttonhole Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, working 3 sc in each ch-4 sp, turn.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 13 1/4 (14 1/4, 15)"/33.5 (36, 38)cm from beginning, end

with a RS row.

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Shape Shoulder and Neck

Row 1: Sl st in first 15 (18, 20) sts, ch 1, sc in last 10 sts, turn; leave remaining sts unworked.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, dc in last 4 sts, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each sc across. Fasten off.

Collar

With A, ch 40 (44, 48).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—39 (43, 47) sc.

Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn—41 (45, 49) sc.

Rows 6–8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Repeat last 4 rows 2 more times—45 (49, 53) sc.

Next 2 Rows: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Last Row: Ch 2, hdc in each st across, turn. Fasten off.

Sleeves (make 2)

With A, ch 32 (36, 40).

Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—31 (35, 39) sc.

Rows 2–10: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 11: Ch 1, 2 sc in first sc, sc in each sc across to last sc, 2 sc in last sc, turn—33 (37, 41) sc.

Rows 12–21: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Row 22: Repeat Row 11—35 (39, 43) sc.

Row 23: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last 2 rows 5 more times—45 (49, 53) sc.

Next Row: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Repeat last row until piece measures 8 (10, 11)"/20.5 (25.5, 28)cm from beginning.

Shape Cap

Row 1: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn—43 (47, 51) sts.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Repeat last 2 rows 2 more times—39 (43, 47) sts.

Row 7: Ch 1, [sc2tog] 2 times, sc in each st across to last 4 sts, [sc2tog] 2 times, turn—35 (39,

43) sts.

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 9: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in each st across to last 2 sts, sc2tog, turn—33 (37, 41) sts.

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Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn.

Row 11: Sl st in first 6 sts, ch 1, sc in each st across to last 6 sts, turn; leave last 6 sts

unworked—21 (25, 29) sc.

Row 12: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, Fasten off.

Faux Pockets (make 2)

With A, ch 13.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each remaining ch across, turn—12 sc.

Rows 2–8: Ch 1, sc in each sc across, turn.

Fasten off.

Finishing:

Block pieces lightly, to schematic measurements, if desired.

Sew shoulder seams. Sew in sleeves. Sew side and sleeve seams. Center foundation chain of

collar over neckline and sew in place. Using sewing needle and thread, sew buttons to right

front, opposite buttonholes on left front. Pin faux pockets to left and right front between

lower buttons, as shown in photograph. Sew around three sides of each pocket, leaving long

side closest to side seam unsewn. Using yarn needle and a double strand of B, embroider

running stitch detail on sleeves, collar, and pockets, as shown in photograph.

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Crocheted Hats

Precious Puppy Dog Hat

By: Sarah Zimmerman from Repeat Crafter Me

Kids will go crazy over this Precious Puppy Dog

Hat. Whether or not you own a dog, this free

crochet hat pattern is definitely a must-do. The

pattern includes instructions for making multiple

hat sizes, so you can make one for your newborn

baby, for a toddler, and even for yourself! Begin

with a magic ring. Ear flaps will keep you warm,

and brown buttons for the eyes add a nice

finishing touch.

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with Vanna's Choice: o Oatmeal for the base of the hat; Rust, Pink and Dusty Blue for accent colors on

the hats in the pictures displayed; Chocolate Brown for nose and mouth; White to sew the button eyes on and in the braided tails

Crochet Hook (H/8 or 5 mm)

Two 1" Brown Buttons (for eyes)

Tapestry Needle

Skill Level: Easy

Size: There are individual directions for each size. 0-3 months, 3-6 months, 6-9 months, 9-12 months, toddler/preschooler, child, teen/adult

Gauge: 2" across = 7 stitches, 2" height = 4 rows

Notes:

1. Always start your rounds in the same stitch as your chain. Always join your rounds to the

first DC, NOT the chain.

2. Your last stitch should be in the stitch before your chain.

3. Do NOT count the chain 2 as a stitch.

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Instructions:

Size: 0-3 Months

Magic ring, 11 DC in magic ring, join to first DC, chain 2

Round 2: 2 DC in each around, join, chain 2 (22 DC)

Round 3: 2 DC in first, DC in next, repeat around, join, chain 2 (33 DC)

Round 4: 2 DC in first, DC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 2 (44 DC)

Round 5-10: DC in each around, join, chain 2 (44 DC)

Do not fasten off, begin on earflap as written below

Size: 3-6 Months

Magic ring, 11 DC in magic ring, join to first DC, chain 2

Round 2: 2 DC in each around, join, chain 2 (22 DC)

Round 3: 2 DC in first, DC in next, repeat around, join, chain 2 (33 DC)

Round 4: 2 DC in first, DC in next 2, repeat around, join, chain 2 (44 DC)

Round 5: 2 DC in first, DC in next 10, repeat around, join, chain 2 (48 DC)

Round 6-11: DC in each around, join, chain 2 (48 DC)

Do not fasten off, begin on earflap as written below

Earflaps for 0-3 months – Preschooler

Earflap 1:

Chain 1, SC in next 10, chain 1, turn

Row 2: SC decrease, SC in next 6, SC decrease, chain 1, turn

Row 3: SC across (8 SC)

Row 4: SC decrease, SC in next 4, SC decrease, chain 1, turn

Row 5: SC across ( 6 SC)

Row 6: SC decrease, SC in next 2, SC decrease, chain 1, turn

Row 7: SC across (4 SC)

Row 8: Make 2 SC decreases, chain 1, turn

Row 9: SC decrease, fasten off, weave in ends

Earflap 2:

See picture below for second earflap placement

Chain 1, SC in next 10, chain 1, turn

Row 2: SC decrease, SC in next 6, SC decrease, chain 1, turn

Row 3: SC across (8 SC)

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Row 4: SC decrease, SC in next 4, SC decrease, chain 1, turn

Row 5: SC across ( 6 SC)

Row 6: SC decrease, SC in next 2, SC decrease, chain 1, turn

Row 7: SC across (4 SC)

Row 8: Make 2 SC decreases, chain 1, turn

Row 9: SC decrease, fasten off, weave in ends

With accent color:

Beginning at any point on the hat (it may help to begin at the tip of the earflap), SC around hat

and earflaps, fasten off weave in ends.

Second earflap placement:

Fold hat in half leaving slightly more stitches in the front of the hat than the back. Place the

second earflap to line up with the first earflap (between the red arrows in this picture).

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Attach yarn at the tip of the earflap and being single crocheting around entire edge of hat

Braided Tails:

Cut three 1 yard strands of each color (9 strands total). Pass through last space in earflap. You

should now have 18 strands to braid with.

Make knot and braid approx 5.5 inches long, knot, trim ends.

Ears (make two of each):

Outside of Ears:

Chain 6, HDC in 2nd Chain from hook, HDC across, chain 1, turn (5 HDC)

Row 2-6: HDC across (5 HDC), chain 1, turn (This is where you could continue Making rows of

HDC's to make the ear longer. To make the ear wider, start with a longer chain. )

Row 7: HDC decrease, HDC, HDC decrease, continue to SC around and when you get to the

top, make two HDC decrease right before Sl St to join, fasten off

Note: It helps to make 2 SC in each bottom corners.

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Inside of Ear:

Chain 4, HDC in 2nd Ch from hook, HDC across (3 HDC), chain 1, turn

Row 2-5: HDC across (3 HDC), chain 1, turn

at the end of Row 5, continue to SC around and when you get to the top, make two HDC

decrease right before Sl St to join, fasten off

Note: It helps to make 2 SC in each bottom corners.

Sew the inside of the ear to the outside of the ear but be careful to sew only on the inside

stitches so the yarn doesn't show through the outer ear.

Sew finished ear to hat, placing at about the 3rd round.

Eye Patch:

Magic Ring, Chain 2 and make 8 HDC in ring, join to first HDC, chain 2

Round 2: 2 HDC in first two stitches, 2 DC in next 4 stitches, 2 HDC in last two stitches, join to

first HDC, fasten off leaving long tail to sew onto hat.

To make the eye patch larger, continue with Round 3 by making 2 SC or HDC (depending on

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how big you want it) in each stitch around.

Want to make a puppy love hat? Crochet a heart instead of a circle for the eye patch.

Nose:

Chain 5, HDC in second chain from hook, HDC in next two stitches, 2 HDC in last stitch,

now working on opposite side of chain, HDC in next 3, 2 HDC in last stitch, fasten off leaving

long tail to sew nose onto hat.

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C is for Cookie Monster Hat

By: Heather from Craft Cravings

Learn how to crochet a beanie featuring the

much-adored Cookie Monster. This C is for

Cookie Monster Hat is perfect for the kid in

your life. Your baby will have no trouble

staying warm in this adorable beanie. This

step-by-step guide has two tutorials, for 0-6

months and 6-12 months. This crochet

beanie pattern also includes the steps to

crochet cookies to attach to the hat or to use

as adorable props for photos. Surprise the

Sesame Street lover in your life with this

comfy hat.

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with blue, tan, black, white and a dark brown

Crochet Hook (G/6 or 4 mm)

Yarn Needle

Notes: 1. Do not count the first ch 3 as a DC 2. For sizes 0-6 months and 6-12 months, pattern will indicate where the extra row for the bigger size is.

Instructions:

Step 1. Ch 4. Sl st to first stitch to make a

circle/loop

Step 2. Ch 3, complete 8 dc in loop. Join to top

of beginning ch 3 with a sl st

Step 3. Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 3 and in

each dc around (16 stitches)

Step 4. Ch 3, *2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in next*

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Step 5. Repeat from * until the end of the round. Join to first DC with a sl st (24 stitches)

Step 6. Ch3, *2 dc in same stitch , 1 dc in each of the next 2 stitches*. Repeat from * until end

of round Join to first DC with a sl st(32 stitches)

Step 7. Ch3, *2 dc same stitch ,1 dc in each of next 3 stitches*. Repeat from * until the end of

row. Join to first DC with a sl st (40)

Do step 8 only if you are doing the bigger size:

Step 8. Ch3, *2 dc in the same stitch, 1 dc in each of next 4 stitches*. Repeat from * until the

end of row. Join to first DC with a sl st (48)

Step 9. Ch 3 1 dc in the same stitch. 1 dc in each stitch all the way around. Join to first DC with

a sl st.

Step 10. Repeat the last row until your hat measures about 5 inches (0-6 months) or 6 inches

(6-12) from top to bottom edge

Step 11. Ch 1. Sc in same stitch. Do 1 sc in each stitch all the way around. Finish off and weave

in ends.

Whites of the eyes: (make 2)

Step 1. Ch 4. sl st to first ch to make a circle/loop

Step 2. Ch 3. Do 8 DC in ring. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Step 3. Ch 3. 2 dc in same stitch. 2 dc in each stitch around. Sl st to first DC to join (16 stitches)

Step 4. Finish off, weave in ends, leaving one long end to sew white of eye onto hat

Pupils in the eye: (make 2)

Step 1. Ch 4. sl st to first ch to make a circle/loop

Step 2. Ch 3. Do 8 DC in ring. Sl st to top of beginning ch 3 to join.

Step 3. Finish off, weave in ends, leaving one long end to sew pupil onto white of eye

Mouth:

Step 1. Ch 20

Step 2. Sl st into the next 4 stitches. Do 1 sc in the next 12 stitches slp st into the next stitch ch

1, turn work

Step 3. Sc in the next 12, ch 1 turn (do this row twice. no ending ch 1 on the second time)

Step 4. Sl st in the next 2 stitches. Sc in each of the next 8 stitches. slp st into next stitch, turn.

Step 5. Do 1 sc in the next 8 stitches. slt into next stitch, turn.

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Step 6. Sc around the piece until you get to right before the center of the TOP of mouth. Do 1

dc in each of the next two stitches. Sc the rest of the way around to start, sl st to the

beginning. Weave in the one free end, but leave a long end for sewing onto the hat.

Cookies: (make 1 for the hat. Make 2 additional for every photo prop cookie you are making)

Step 1. Ch 4. Sl st to first stitch to make a circle/loop

Step 2. Ch 3, complete 8 dc in loop. join to top of beginning ch 3 with a sl st (8 stitches )

Step 3. Ch 3, 2 dc in same stitch as ch 3 and in each dc around (16 stitches)

Step 4. Ch 3, *2 dc in same stitch, 1 dc in next* Repeat from * until the end of the round. Join

to first DC with a sl st (24 stitches)

Step 5. Fasten off. Leave a long end for sewing onto hat (or for sewing onto the other cookie if

making a photo prop)

Step 6. Use a length of darker brown yarn for the chocolate chips. Thread it in a yarn needle

and sew little “x’s or make french knots for the chips.

Note: If making a photo prop, you’d make two cookies. Hold them both together, wrong sides

facing together and sew the two cookies together, making one double sided cookie!

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Putting it all together:

Step 1. Take the black pupils and position on top of the white circles. For best results, align the

side of one pupil with the inner edge of the white of eye either towards the top or bottom.

Looking at pictures of cookie monster, his eyes are “googly”. If you look at the photos, I’ve got

the pupils in opposite positions on the inner side of the white of the eye. I think it makes it

cuter! Take your yarn needle and the long tail of the black yarn and sew it onto the white of

the eye. Do both eyes.

Step 2. Once the eyes are sewn together, position them towards the top of the hat, but not

ALL the way at the top. Pin them in place if you need to. I just sort of winged it.

Use the long tail of the white yarn and sew the eye onto the hat. Do both eyes.

Step 3. Take the mouth and center it below both eyes. Use the long tail of the black yarn and

sew it onto the hat.

Step 4. Take your cookie. Position it on one bottom corner of the mouth as if it’s being eaten.

Use the long tail of tan yarn to sew it to the hat!

Take a look at this adorable collection of 16 Crochet Baby Hat Patterns!

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Stylish Eskimo Baby Hat

By: Bethany Dearden from Whistle and Ivy

What better way to get ready for winter

than with this Stylish Eskimo Baby Hat?

After you've learned how to crochet a

baby hat, you'll want to jump right into

this pattern. The colors can be altered

for a boy or a girl and the sizes are great

for newborns to 12 months. The button

features on the flap really add

personality to this hat. And let's not

forget about the adorable pom on top

along with the braids to tie it tight. Keep

your little one warm and stylish for the

next few months.

Materials:

Medium Weight Yarn in 2-3 Colors

o Model is stitched with Caron Simply Soft

Crochet Hook (G/6 or 4 mm)

2 Buttons

Skill Level: Easy

Size: 0-3, 3-6, and 6- 12 months

Instructions:

0-3 Months

Magic Ring

Step 1. Hdc 8 in ring

Step 2. Hdc 2 in same st. Hdc 2 in next 7 sts. (make sure to use “last” st. Join with sl st with

your first ch. (16 sts)

Step 3. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 1, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat. (24

sts)

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Step 4. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 1 in next st. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 2, hdc 2 in next st) all

around the hat. Join with sl st.(32 sts) (3 “ diameter)

Step 5. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 2. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 3, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (40 sts)

Step 6. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 3. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 4, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (48)

Step 7. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in each st around. Join with sl st (48 sts)

Steps 8-13. Repeat step 7.

Finish off.

Front flap:

Step 1. With your seam in the middle back of the hat, find a stitch that 2-3 sts from the side on

the front (it doesn’t have to be exact) . Use this st at your starting point. Work from the inside

of the hat. Join your new color with a sl st. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 16. Turn.

Step 2. Ch 1. Sc in same st, sc 16. Turn.

Steps 3-7. Repeat Step 2

Step 8. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 1. Ch 2. Sk 2 sts and sc into next st ( 3rd st away from your last

sc.) sc 8. Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc into next st. ( 3rd st away from last sc. ) sc in last st. Turn.

Step 9. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 16 all across the piece, (make sure to work 1 sc in each of the chs

from the last round.

Tie off.

Back piece:

Start with your hat upside down, working from the outside. Join your yarn with a sl st on the

left of the flap. Start in the next unworked. You will work all the way across the back until you

meet the front flap:

Step 1. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 28. Turn.

Step 2. Ch 2. Dc in same st. dc 5. Hdc 2. Sc 13. Hdc 2. Dc 6. Turn

Step 3. Ch 2. Dc in same st. dc 5. Hdc 17. Dc 6. Turn.

Step 4. Ch 2. Dc2tog. Dc 4. Hdc 17. Dc 4. Dc2tog.

Don’t finish off.

Finish where you left off by sc all around the back piece and the front flap. Work 3 sc in all the

corners.

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3-6 Months

Start with Magic Ring

Step 1. Hdc 8 in ring

Step 2. Hdc 2 in same st. Hdc 3 in next 7 sts. Join with sl st. (16 sts)

Step 3. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 1, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat. (24

sts)

Step 4. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 1 in next st. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 2, hdc 2 in next st) all

around the hat. Join with sl st. (32 sts) (3” diameter)

Step 5. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 2. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 3, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (40 sts) 3 ¾” diameter)

Step 6. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 3. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 4, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (46 sts) (4 1/4” diameter)

Step 7. Ch 1 Hdc in same st. Hdc 10. Hc 2 in next st. (Hdc 11, hdc 2 in next st) 3 times. Join with

sl st.

Step 8. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc in each st around. Join with sl st.

Steps 9-14. Repeat row 8.

Tie off.

Front Flap:

Step 1. With your seam in the middle back of the hat, find a stitch that 2-3 sts from the side on

the front (it doesn’t have to be exact). Use this st at your starting point. Join your new color

with a sl st. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 18. Turn.

Step 2. Ch 1. Sc in same st, sc 18. Turn.

Step 3-7. Repeat step 2.

Step 8. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 1. Ch 2. Sk 2 sys and sc in to next st (3rd st away from your last

sc.) sc 10. Ch 2, sk 2 sts, sc into next st. (3rd st away from last sc.) sc in last st. Turn.

Step 9. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 18 all across the piece, (make sure to work 1 sc in each of the chs

from the last round.

Tie off.

Back Piece:

Note: Start on the right side of the front flap. Start in the next unworked st of the hat. Working

from the outside join your yarn with a sl st. Work all the way across the back until you meet

the front flap.

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Step 1. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 24. Turn.

Step 2. Ch 2. Dc in same st. dc 5. Hdc 2. Sc 17. Hdc 2. Dc 6. Turn.

Step 3. Repeat row 7.

Step 4. Ch 2. Dc2tog. Dc 4. Hdc 21. Dc 4. Dc2tog.

Step 5. Ch 1. Sc2tog. Sc 29. Sc2tog.

Don’t tie off.

Finish where you left off by sc all around the back piece and the front flap. Work 3 sc in all the

corners.

6-12 Months

Start with Magic Ring

Step 1. Hdc 8 in ring

Step 2. Hdc 2 in same st. Hdc 2 in next 7 sts. (make sure to use “last” st. Join with sl st with

your first ch.) (16 sts)

Step 3. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 1, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat. (24

sts) (join like you normally would)

Step 4. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 1 in next st. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 2, hdc 2 in next st) all

around the hat. Join with sl st. (32 sts) (3” diameter)

Step 5. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 2. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 2, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (40 sts) (3 ¾” diameter)

Step 6. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 3. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 4, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (48 sts) (4 ¼” diameter)

Step 7. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 4. Hdc 2 in next st. (Hdc 5, hdc 2 in next st) all around the hat.

Join with sl st. (56 sts) (5 ¼” diameter)

Step 8. Ch 1. Hdc in same st. Hdc 1 in each st all around the hat. Join with sl st.

Steps 9-17. Repeat round 9.

Join and tie off.

Front Flap:

Step 1. Since your hat is round, you can start this st anywhere, but it helps to keep the seam in

the back. Lay the hat flat with the seam in the middle of the back, and start about 3 stitches in

from the side of the hat. Work from the inside of the hat. Join your new color with a sl st. Ch 1.

Sc in same st. Sc 22. Turn.

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Step 2. Ch 1. Sc in same st, sc 22. Turn.

Steps 3-9. Repeat step 2.

Step 10. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 2. Ch 2. Sk 2 sts and sc into next st (3rd away from your last sc.)

Sc 2. Turn.

Step 11. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 22 all across the piece, (make sure to work 1 sc in each of the

chs from the last round.)

Tie off.

Back Piece:

Note: Start with your hat upside down, working from the outside. Join your yarn with a sl st on

the left of the flap. Start in the next unworked. You will work all the way across the back until

you meet the front flap.

Step 1. Ch 1. Sc in same st. Sc 32. Turn

Step 2. Ch 2. Dc in same st. Dc 7. Hdc 2. Sc 13. Hdc 2. Dc 8. Turn.

Steps 3-4. Repeat step 2.

Step 5. Ch 2. Dc2tog. Dc 6. Hdc 17. Dc 6. Dc2tog.

Step 6. Ch 2. Dc2tog. Dc 5. Hdc 18. Dc 5. Dc2tog.

Don’t tie off.

Finish where you left off by sc all around the back piece and the front flap. Work 3 sc in all the

corners.

Note for all Sizes:

To make tassels, cut 6 arm-length pieces of yarn (from your chin to your extended arm). Pull

the six pieces through the corner stitch on your hat (you now have 12 pieces to work with)

Braid them together and tie a knot. Repeat for the other side. This goes for all sizes of this

pattern.

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Pink Ruffle Hat

By: Bernat

Crochet your little girl this adorable Pink Ruffle Hat.

She’ll look great in it, especially since it can adjust to

fit babies six months old to 24 months old. Just one

ball or yarn is used to complete this free crochet hat

pattern. The ruffle brim adds the perfect finishing

touch and has just the right amount of femininity. It’s

a perfect pattern to make for any new mom in your

life (including yourself!) because it’s both cute and

practical.

Materials:

Light/DK Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with Bernat Baby Jacquards (100 g/3.5 oz): 1 ball 06415

Cherry Berry

Crochet Hook (G/6 or 4 mm)

Skill Level: Intermediate

Size: To fit child sizes 6 (12, 18, 24) mos

Gauge: 19 sc and 20 rows – 4” (10 cm)

Instructions:

Ch 4. Join with sl st in first ch to form a ring.

1st rnd: Ch 1. 6 sc in ring. Join with sl st in first sc.

2nd rnd: Ch 1. 2 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st in first sc. 12 sc.

3rd rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in next sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in first sc. 18

sc.

4th rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 2 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in

first sc. 24 sc.

5th rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 3 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in

first sc. 30 sc.

6th rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 4 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in

first sc. 36 sc.

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7th rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 5 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in

first sc. 42 sc.

8th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st in first sc.

9th rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 6 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in

first sc. 48 sc.

10th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st in first sc.

11th rnd: Ch 1. *2 sc in next sc. 1 sc in each of next 7 sc. Rep from * around. Join with sl st in

first sc. 54 sc.

12th rnd: Ch 1. 1 sc in each sc around. Join with sl st in first sc.

Cont in same manner, alternating 12th round with inc round, increasing 6 sts on every other

rnd to 72 (78-84-90) sc.

Place marker at end of last rnd.

Rep 8th rnd until work from marked rnd measures 3 (3 1/2-3 3/4-4)" [7.5 (9-9.5-10) cm].

Ruffle:

Next rnd: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1). (1 dc. Ch 1. 1 dc) in same sp as sl st. *(Ch 1. 1 dc) 3

times in next sc. Rep from * around. Ch 1. Join with sl st to 3rd ch of ch 4.

Fasten off.

Check out all of our amazing hats for children, toddlers, and babies!

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Footwear

Kids Striped Crochet Boots Pattern

By: Craftown

These Kids Striped Crochet Boots Pattern are

super fun to work up. If you and your kids

are feeling a little silly, then you really

should learn how to crochet boots. The

colors are bright and quirky for a fun time to

be had all around. Your kids can play in them

or lounge around in them; either way, they'll

love 'em. I bet you’ve never tried a crochet

pattern like this one!

Materials:

Worsted Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with: (60 yd-2 oz pull skeins) 4 skeins Main Color (MC), 3

Contrasting Color(CC)

Crochet Hook (J/10 or 6 mm)

Skill Level: Easy

Size: Fits a young child’s shoe size 12/13

Gauge: 5 sc = 2"

Pattern Notes: Striping Pattern: 4 rounds MC, 2 rounds CC, 1 round MC, 2 rounds CC, 2 rounds MC. These 11 rounds form striping pattern.

Instructions:

Sole: Using MC, ch 20 sts.

Round 1: 1 sc in 2nd ch from hook, 1 sc in each remaining st of ch to last st, 4 sc in same st (toe

inc); working on other side of ch, 1 sc in each st to last st, 2 sc in same st (heel inc), join with a

sl st.

Round 2: Ch 1,1 sc in each st to center toe st, 2 sc in same st, 1 sc in each st to center st of

heel, 2 sc in same st, join.

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Round 3: Repeat Round 2. Fasten off.

Top:

Round 1: Join CC in center heel st, ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around sole, join-47 sts.

Round 2: Shape Toe: Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to center toe st, yo, insert hook in same st, yo,

draw up a loop, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops on

hook (dec st), 1 hdc in each remaining st, join. Break off CC.

Round 3: Pull MC through loop on hook, ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to center toe st, 1 dec st, 1 hdc

in each st around, join.

Round 4: Repeat Round 3. Break off MC.

Round 5: Pull CC through loop on hook and repeat Round 3.

Round 6: Ch 2, 1 hdc in each st to center toe st; * 1 hdc in same st, sl st in other side of toe,

repeat from * 3 times, 1 hdc in each remaining st, join. Break off CC.

Round 7 (Eyelet Round): Pull MC through loop on hook, ch 2, 1 dc in each st around, join.

Break off MC.

Round 8: Pull CC through loop on hook, ch 2, 1 hdc in each st around, join. Now working in

striping pattern, repeat Round 8 until striping pattern has been completed. Fasten off.

Finishing:

Top Edging:

Join CC in st at back and ch 1, 2 sc in next st, * 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, repeat from *

around, join. Fasten off.

Foot Edging:

Join MC in st at back and work 1 round sc around edge of foot.

Tie: Make. Using MC double, make a ch to measure 40 inches. Run through eyelet round and

tie.

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Bubblegum Baby Leg Warmers

By: Danyel Pink from Danyel Pink Designs

While she's jumping rope or playing hop scotch,

she's going to look adorable wearing these

Bubblegum Baby Leg Warmers this fall. Crochet

leg warmers like this are easy to work up and will

keep her legs warm and stylish. These are easy to

customize for any size imaginable from babies to

adults, so you can make a pair for yourself, too.

Add a cute button or side embellishment to

really use your creative side.

Materials:

Worsted Weight or Sport Weight Yarn

Crochet Hook (I/9 or 5.5 mm)

Scissors

Yarn Needle

Skill Level: Easy

Pattern Notes:

You will need THREE measurements from the person you're making the legwarmers for.

#1: The circumference of the thigh.

#2: The length of the leg.

#3: The circumference of the ankle.

If you don't want to make them to cover an entire leg, take your top, bottom & length

measurements accordingly.

Instructions:

Make 2

Top Cuff

CH 9

Row 1: turn, skip 1st CH, SC in remaining 8 STS.

Row 2: CH 1, turn, SC in BLO across. (8 SC)

REPEAT Row 2 until the STRETCHED cuff equals your #1 measurement (thigh circ.)

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Ch 1, turn, SL ST both ends of the cuff together to form a circle.

If you're going to change colors, fasten off... if not, just hold your cuff with right side facing &

continue on.

Leg

Round 1: SC in the end of each row of the cuff, join.

Rounds 2 - 5: CH 1, HDC in each ST around, join.

REPEAT Round 2, decreasing by 1 ST approximately every 2-3 rows until legwarmer is 1-2" shy

of your #2 measurement (leg length).

Keep measuring to make sure you haven't decreased too much or too little. You'll need more

frequent decreases for smaller legs, fewer decreases for larger legs.

If you're going to change colors again, fasten off... if not, just continue on.

Bottom Cuff

Round 1: CH 1, SC in each ST around, join.

Make sure that this bottom edge is the same as your #3 measurement (ankle circ.) If it's too

big, rip out a few rows & do more decreases.

If it's too small, rip out a few rows & do fewer decreases.

REPEAT Round 1 for 1-2", no decreases.

Fasten off.

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Baby Shower Booties

By: Bernat

Baby booties are the perfect gift to give for a

baby shower. Make your own with this free

crochet pattern that can be worked up in blue

for a boy and pink for a girl. Yellow yarn would

work if the sex is unknown, too. This baby

booties pattern is written to fit babies ages 3

to 6 months and is such a quick and easy

pattern to complete. If you need a last minute

baby shower gift idea, this is definitely a great

pattern to check out.

Materials:

Light/DK Weight Yarn o Model is stitched with Bernat Baby Coordinates (140 g/5 oz): 1 ball of 01009 Soft

Blue

Crochet Hook (F/5 or 3.75 mm)

Skill Level: Easy

Size: To fit baby size 3-6 mos.

Gauge: 15 hdc and 11 rows = 4 ins (10 cm)

Instructions:

Note: Turning ch 2 does not count as hdc.

Ch 29.

1st row: (RS). 1 hdc in 3rd ch from hook. 1 hdc in each ch across. 27 hdc. Turn.

2nd to 5th rows: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc across. Turn.

6th row: Sl st in each of first 6 hdc. Ch 2. 1 hdc in

same st as last sl st. 1 hdc in each of next 16 hdc.

Turn. Leave rem 5 hdc unworked.

7th to 11th rows: Ch 2. 1 hdc in each hdc across. Turn. 17 hdc.

Place marker at each end of 9th row.

Do not turn at end of 11th row.

12th row: Ch 1. Working from left to right, instead of from right to left as usual, work 1 reverse

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sc in each hdc across. Fasten off.

Finishing:

Fold Bootie in half with RS facing each other.

Join yarn with sl st at marked row and work 1 row of sc through both thicknesses to join seam

down rem of cuff, around toe and across bottom of foot.

Fasten off. Turn Bootie right side out. Fold down cuff.

Tie:

Make a chain 12 ins [30.5 cm] long. Weave through 7th row of cuff.

30 Free Crochet Slippers for Everyone is the best collections of footwear for the family!

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Winter Fashion for Toddlers + Baby Crochet Patterns

Included in this eBook: Jackets and Hats Crochet Sweaters

Footwear

Special Thanks

Bethany Dearden from Whistle and Ivy Corina Gray from Stitch 11

Danyel Pink from Danyel Pink Designs Heather from Craft Cravings

Lorene Haythorn Eppolite from Cre8tion Crochet Sarah Zimmerman from Repeat Crafter Me

Vickie Howell for Vickie Howell

Bernat Caron

Craftown