Winter detailing

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    Detailing WorldWinter Detailing

    -Mat-1

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    Detailing WorldWinter Detailing

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    Contents

    Subject Page

    INTRODUCTION 3

    Why the fuss? 3

    Prevention is better than the cure! 3

    LOOKING AFTER YOURSELF

    General Welfare 3

    Clothing 3

    Hats & Gloves 4

    Finally 5

    DETAILING IN THE WINTER 5

    Concerns & Issus 5

    Washing Hints & Tips 5

    Touchless Washing 7Environmentally Friendly Washing 7

    Watch Those Wheels 8

    PROTECTION IS KEY 9LSP Advice 9Decontamination 9Time To Protect 10Wheels, Arches & Suspension 10Underbody & Chassis 10

    WINTER DETAILING PRODUCTS & STORAGE 11

    What Do I Use 11Storage 11

    DE-ICING 12

    Which Method 12

    Aerosol De-Icers 12

    Ice Scrapers 13

    Water 13

    Other Methods 13

    So Then 14

    CAR MAINTENANCE 14

    Stay Safe 14Essential Winter Checks 14

    General Car Safety 15

    Take Precautions 15

    Winter Necessities 15

    RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS 16Paste Waxes 16Sealants 17Under-Body Protection 18

    ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS 20

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    Winter Detailingby -Mat-

    INTRODUCTION

    Why the fuss?

    So, why all of the fuss about winter detailing? Every year like clockwork, detailers, enthusiasts and

    hobbyists all start to worry about how best to protect their car but why? Well, we recognise that our

    car is one of the most expensive items we may purchase, and we take pride and joy in keeping up its

    appearance.

    The harsh conditions that the winter weather brings can have a serious effect on our cars, both short

    term and long term. In the short term, we have to deal with frozen windows, frozen door shuts/seals,

    grit & salt on our paintwork. In the long run, the salt & grit used to keep us safer on the roads, has anegative impact on the cars chassis and other components, by causing rust. This can lead to costly

    repair bills, unsightly surface rust and even MOT failure. Theres also the long term effect of washing

    during the winter, in the form of swirl marks and random scratches.

    Prevention is better than the cure!

    We now know why we worry about the winter weather coming, but what can we do about it? Well, as

    the saying goes, prevention is better than the cure. Im not going to claim theres a miracle must

    have product that will 100% prevent rust, or prevent getting swirl marks in the paintwork. However,

    with the right knowledge we can take measures to delay the onset of rust and swirl marks, and treatthem should they occur. So let us take a look at what we can do.

    LOOKING AFTER YOURSELF

    General Welfare

    Before we start to take care of our car, we need to make sure we take care of ourselves. The last

    thing you want is an injury. So before starting any work on your car, assess the situation. Take into

    account the current weather conditions, and your working environment.

    Keeping warm is essential when detailing in cold conditions. Cold muscle can be damaged very

    easily, which could mean an early end to your day, and even time off work. Before we begin, we need

    to make sure were wrapped up warm.

    Clothing

    Layering up is an easy way to keeping warm, however, it can restrict movement. The key is to wear

    light and flexible clothing that is also warm and water proof. Long underwear, typically called Long

    Johns or Thermal Underwear are great as a first layer. These are usually made from cotton, and

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    blended with wool (usually Merino), some can be 100% wool. These are designed to keep you well

    insulated, and as warm as possible

    Your next layer should be a set of lightweight waterproofs. Ski clothing is ok for keeping you dry, even

    motorcycle clothing would be ok. I recommend anything made from Gore-Tex material. Whilst most

    waterproof clothing keeps you dry, it doesnt allow your skin to breath, this is where Gore-Tex clothing

    has the edge. Not only do you stay dry, but your body is also able to breath, thus reducing sweating.

    Cross section of Gore-Tex material

    Image Source: Wikipedia

    Hats & Gloves

    Now were wrapped up warm, we need to think about parts of us that are exposed the most. That

    would be our hands and our head. You may have read reports saying that we lose 40%-75% of ourbody heat through our heads. There are other reports dismissing this as being a myth. Regardless of

    how true this is, it is a fact that any exposed part of our body will lose heat. So we need to keep as

    much of our body covered as we can.

    Starting with the head, lets talk about woolly hats.Dont worry; you dont have to look like the douche

    from N-Dubz to stay warm. I personally will wear any kind of beanie hat, and I like to make sure my

    ears are covered. These do offer protection for your head, but can hold dampness in. What you need

    in a Thinsulate hat (made by our friends at 3M), or a Trapper Hat.

    Fleece Trapper Hat Thinsulate Snow Hat Fur Trapper Hat

    Image Source: www.woolyhats.com

    A Thinsulate hat works similar to the Gore-Tex clothing. They are designed to let your body breath

    and let sweat escape, whilst at the same time keeping your head dry and warm. Make sure you get

    one big enough to pull over your ears. The Trapper hat uses fur or fleece to keep you warm. Like the

    Long Johns that use wool, these use other materials to keep heat in. They also have side flaps to

    cover your ears, and tie under your chin, very useful if it becomes very windy.

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    Now to protect your most important tools, your hands. You may already wear latex gloves when

    detailing, these are great for keeping your hands protected from chemicals, but dont offer much in

    terms of warmth. What you need is a good quality pair of waterproof gloves. A highly recommended

    brand by detailers is SealSkinz. I would also suggest purchasing a pair of Thinsulate gloves to wear

    underneath. Combining the two together will give you the best of both worlds. Thinsulate will keep

    your hands nice and warm, whilst the SealSkinz gloves will do a great job of keeping you dry.

    Thinsulate Thermal Gloves SealSkinz All Season Gloves

    Image Source: Amazon Image Source: Specialist Socks.co.uk

    When washing the car, make sure the cuffs are a tight fit to your wrist to prevent water getting under

    the gloves (but not too tight to restrict circulation). If theyre not, it may be a worthwhile idea to wear

    some big long rubber gloves for the wash process (the type used for washing the pots). Its also a

    good idea to make sure the water you are using to wash is nice and warm. Cold water will quickly

    draw heat away from your hands/wrists/arms.

    Finally

    One final part to remember is shoes and socks. Keep your feet dry. If you need to, carry an extra pair

    of socks if youre detailing away from home. Also, make sure your shoes/boots/trainers are waterproof

    and provide plenty of grip. Remember, all that water you are using may turn into sheet ice.

    Well, I think that just about covers everything on your own well-being. Just a few simple steps will

    keep you safe and warm. Oh, and a final thought, if youre detailing away from home, make sure you

    take a nice warm flask of tea/coffee/Bovril/soup etc. Just to keep you warm on the inside.

    DETAILING IN THE WINTER

    Concerns & Issus

    What are the concerns and issues around detailing during the colder months? Well, if youve read the

    introduction, you will now understand whywe want/need to detail, yet theres always a panic as to

    what products we should use, what wash technique and what methods for applying LSPs. Hopefully

    this section will cover all of your concerns.

    Washing Hints & Tips

    Winter detailing is essentially the same as detailing any other time of the year. The only difference is

    the amount of dirt you will find on your car, and the type of dirt that is. What we need to do is take alittle more time, and a little more caution when cleaning our cars. The usual process of rinse, foam,

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    and two bucket method wash still apply, we just need to use a little more caution.

    Snow Foam Bath Thorough Rinse 2 Bucket Method Wash

    Image Source: -Mat-

    Ok, so for this part of the guide I will assume you are pretty adept when it comes to washing a carsafely and using the 2 Bucket Method (2BM).

    To begin with, you need to give the car a thorough rinse down to remove any loose surface dirt,grime, grit and salt. For this, a pressure washer would be ideal or a garden hose on a fairly strongsetting (not a jet stream, but more than a light spray). Remember to give the wheels and arches avery thorough rinse. This is where most of the salt and grime will be collected. Also try to get underthe body and sills. You can purchase an under body lance attachment for this, or possibly use agarden sprinkler, and drive the car back and forth over it.

    After giving the car a thorough rinse down, its time to begin the wash stage. However, were still notready to touch the paintwork yet. The key to a good, safe winter wash is to touch the paint as little aspossible. So the next stage is to give the car a through snow foam. I would suggest doing this twice. Ifthis isnt an option, then you can get a hosepipe attachment that does a similar job. Alternatively, youcan give the car a pre-soak with some All Purpose Cleaner (APC), usually diluted to around 10:1depending on the brand you use. After you have left the foam/APC to do its work, give the car anotherthorough rinse. We are now ready for the wash stage.

    2 Bucket Method Wash Merino Lambswool Mitt Ultra Plush Drying Towel

    Image Source: -Mat-

    The most important stage of any winter detail is the wash stage. This is where swirls, scratches andother defects can be inflicted. The key here is to use a good quality car shampoo to help lift andlubricate the dirt, and also a good quality, clean, lambswool mitt. As said, this guide assumes youalready know how to wash a car safely with the 2BM. Essentially what you need to remember, is towash less in one pass than you normally would and visit the rinse bucket more often. So if youwould usually wash half the roof, and then rinse the mitt, try just washing a quarter, and then rinsing.

    You will also need to keep an eye on your rinse water. Whether or not you use grit guards, the waterwill become dirtier, quicker. So dont be scared of changing the water for fresh water every now andthen.

    Finally onto drying the paintwork. Using an open ended hose, try to sheet off as much water aspossible. This will ensure that you will have to touch the car less in order to dry it. When you do dry

    the car, use a super absorbent microfiber drying towel, and pat the car dry. Do not rub the car. Patdrying will soak up any water, without risking any damage caused by any possible remaining grit.

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    Touchless Washing

    During the winter months, my personal wash method is to wash the car as little as possible well, atleast the paintwork anyway. Providing your car has a good coat of wax/sealant, there is nothing wrongwith letting dirt sit on the paintwork. My own personal winter wash method includes a rinse downpossibly every 1-2 weeks, followed by a wash using the process above, every 3

    rdweek or so.

    Snow Foam Bath

    Image Source: -Mat-

    As we know at this time of the year the days are shorter, and we have less light to work with. This isoften why people are unable to wash their car after work. So a quick pressure wash down, followed bya foam/APC coating, and another rinse, it usually enough to keep the dirt at bay. After you have givenyour car a touchless wash, remember to rinse well with an open ended host to sheet off as muchwater as possible.

    Environmentally Friendly Washing

    No you dont have to wear tie-die, make love beads, and say peace to everyone to use this method.Environmentally Friendly Washing (or EFW for short) is a quick way of washing your car. It also usesfewer chemicals, less water and is lighter on the pocket, so its an all-round winner. The only tools youwill need are; a bottle of ONR (Optimum No Rinse), 1 Bucket (Grit Guard optional), a wash sponge ormicrofibre, a microfibre to dry with, and about 5L of water. As an additional extra, some people makeup a bottle of ONR solution in a spray bottle.

    As this topic doesnt seem to be covered as much, well spend a bit of time looking into how exactlyyou wash using ONR. Now Im no expert on EFW, and I have never used ONR, so heres someinformation provide from Detailing World member Lowiepete (Steve).

    The biggest hurdle to overcome with winter s ONR is salt, and this is where the biggest judgement

    calls need to be made. ONR is really designed for the balmy hills of California, rather than for use onUK roads. Nevertheless, it is possible to adapt it successfully for winter washing here.

    The biggest "leap of faith" is in believing in the technology that this product brings. How can such athin liquid hold all the muck in suspension and not inflict swirls? As many will testify, it just does! So,the next stage is to put the product on the car and allow time for it to do its work. A small garden spraybottle with ONR diluted at between 30 and 40 to 1 is your starting point.

    Spray one panel at a time and leave it to dwell. The way to test it is to apply another spray - if there isdirt movement, and then it's ready. As stated, the biggest judgement call is salt - don't try and beat thelaws of physics, you will need sufficient water to completely dilute it to a "scratch-free" liquid. Usingjust 1 capful of ONR in a half-filled bucket of warm water, initially drop the mixture from a few inchesabove, using a reasonably filled grouting sponge over as wide an area of the panel as you can, again

    leaving a few moments before the sponge touches the paint. Then, as gently as you can, wipe thepaintwork to rid it of the salt. When the sponge goes back in the bucket, give it a good agitation to free

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    out the muck. It will fall safely to the bottom. It's a case of not being in a rush. Replenishing the half-bucket is another judgement call only you can make. I'd _not_ cut the corner and use full buckets,especially with heavy salting!

    In position and ready to start After 1 pass The roof completed

    Image Source: Lowiepete (Detailing World Member)

    In the summer, you'd normally attempt to dry the panel, before going to the next. Remember, ONR is"no rinse" and attempting to dry the car at this stage is not necessary and there's an increased risk ofmarring. However, if you're intending to apply some QD protection, then the next stage is to spray

    ONR from the garden sprayer once more and then gently wipe the panel dry with a microfibre cloth,turning the cloth regularly. With ONR, I'd recommend folding the cloth into 4 and then always use thefolded side as the leading edge. At no time is there any rubbing involved! The paint will be ready for aQD.

    Many thanks to Steve for providing that information. Remember, during the winter months your carwill collect a whole lot more dirt. So keep an eye on your wash sponge/MF and rinse it well. Thismethod also allows for those quick washes after work when you dont have the time to get thePressure Washer out.

    Watch Those Wheels

    Ok, so weve covered the bodywork, but what about your wheels? For most car enthusiasts a nice setof alloys really makes the car stand out from the crowd. Even at the best of times, we have to contendwith tar, brake dust and industrial fallout damaging our wheels. With the onset of bad weather, wealso have the added presence of grit and salt to make matters worse. This can speed up thecorroding process of the alloys!

    Keep those wheels clean

    Image Source: -Mat-

    With that in mind, make sure you wash your wheels at least once a week. Even if you dont wash thecar itself, it only takes 5 minutes. Just do your best to get as much brake dust, grit and salt off thewheels. If you have protected your wheels before the winter period, this should be an easymaintenance job.

    Whilst cleaning the wheels, its important to check the arches, brakes and suspension. Some arches

    can be prone to rust, and if grit and salt gets trapped between the arch and plastic lining, this mayspeed up the process. The same applies for the suspension, brakes and steering mechanism. With

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    this in mind, it would be a good idea to try and rinse these areas thoroughly at least once a month. Ifneeds be, jack up the car slightly, just enough to get under the arch.

    PROTECTION IS KEY

    LSP Advice

    Last step product. Ok, so were not strictly talking about wax and sealants in this section, but more soabout protection in general. Protection for the paintwork, undercarriage, wheels, arches, etc.Protection is vital to keeping our cars looking its best, keeping the rust at bay, and also makingmaintenance washes much easier.

    Before the winter weather sets in, its highly recommended that you have a good detailing session onyour car (or pay a professional to do it for you). Well assume that you are going to protect the caryourself for the purpose of this article.

    Decontamination

    Your usual wash/detail method should be sufficient for a winter detail, but as with the washingmaintenance, you may need to alter/tweak a few aspects. Firstly you need to ensure the car has beenthoroughly cleaned (including the wheels). The next step would be to ensure all surface contaminantshave been removed. Again, your usual process should suffice, but just as a quick reference, heres aguide of what should be done.

    De-tarring in action Clay process Clay after decontamination

    Image Source: -Mat-

    First up is the wash process, following the guide above should see you through that. Once you have

    completed your wash routine, its time to fully decontaminate the car. The next stage is usually toremove any tar and bug deposits, followed by a thorough rinse. Once this has been done, you can goahead and clay the car, before one final rinse and dried.

    Now all clean and dry, it would be worthwhile at this stage to cleanse the paintwork. There are acouple of options available at this stage; a full machine correction, a light correction with a finishingpad (by hand or machine), or a paint cleansing option. At the very minimum I would recommend thatyou cleanse the paint with something like Dodo Juice Lime Prime or Swissvax Cleaner Fluid.

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    Time To Protect

    Now the paintwork is perfectly clean, its time to apply your chosen wax and/or sealant. The key toapplying a wax during this time of year is to allow a bit longer than usual for the wax to cure. Also,apply it thinner than you may normally apply it. I would also suggest applying 2 or 3 layers to ensureeven coverage.

    I would like to take a quote from a post by Gordon (AKA, Caledonia on Detailing World) in which hegives advice for applying wax in cold conditions.

    Temperature is only one fact. It is more to do with humidity and mainly dew point. This iswhen microscopic particles of water form on horizontal panels on your car. Roof, bonnet andboot if you have one. As you already know wax due to its oily nature will not adhere to water.So this is when you get premature failure of the wax layer. It can also affect sealants too.Dependant on there make up. Caledonia, Detailing World, 19/10/10

    So, with that in mind, try to wax indoors. However, this isnt an option to everyone, so if you do needto apply wax/sealant, then try to do so around mid-day which is likely to be the warmest part of any

    day during the winter.

    Wheels, Arches & Suspension

    Its not only our paintwork that needs protecting in the winter, but also are wheels, and other vitalparts. As with protecting the paintwork, preparation is key. So just like the paintwork, you will need tothoroughly clean your wheels, arches and even your brakes & suspension. Using the advice above,you should get these parts as clean as you can. If needs be, spend a day just on this area of the car,and even take the wheels of if required.

    There are plenty of choices on the market for wheels sealants to protect from brake dust, salt, grit andtar. My personally preference is Poorboys Wheel Sealant; however, OptiSeal is also a good choice forwheels. Your arches and suspension can be waxed with the same stuff you use on your paintwork.

    Underbody & Chassis

    Now on to the hard to reach parts of the car. The cars underbody and chassis that it is built aroundis quite possibly the most vital part of your car. The entire underside of the car is exposed to theelements more than any other area. And with the amount of steal and unprotected paint there is, rustis inevitable. Any corrosion caused here could lead to expensive MOT repairs and maybe even theend of your pride and joy.

    Some professional detailers or garages will offer an underbody protection service. However, if youfancy taking on the challenge yourself, then take care. You will need to get the car off the ground soyou can get access underneath. A hydraulic lift would be ideal, failing that get your car onto someramps or axle stands. Ensure that the car is on a flat, level surface before lifting off the ground.

    Once the underside is accessible, clean off any surface rust and dirt that you can see. There is nopoint protecting a dirty chassis. A wire brush would be handy to remove any surface rust, whilst astrong mix of APC and/or degreaser can be used to remove and dirt and grime. Once everything isclean to your liking, thoroughly dry everything. Then its time to apply your protection of choice.

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    WINTER DETAILING PRODUCTS & STORAGE

    What Do I Use

    When it comes to product choice, there is no right or wrong answer. Most of the time it is down topersonal preference. However, when picking what wax/sealant you wish to use/purchase, it would bewise to consider ease of application, curing times and durability. For a winter protection, you wouldwant something that goes on quick and easy, and will see out the winter months. I will list a selectionof products at the end of this article that have been recommended by professional and enthusiasticdetailers alike.

    Storage

    Again, there seems to be confusion every year as to how we should store our products in the coldermonths. The general consensus amongst detailers is to bring as much as possible into the house andkeep it warm. However, with a few precautions, you should be fine with storing them in your

    shed/garage as usual.

    If youre using a traditional garden type shed for your storage area, then ensure that it is wellinsulated. You can either insulate the entire shed, or place your products in a box, and wrap yourmicrofibers etc around them to keep them warm. The same would apply if you use a garage and thetemperature gets cold in there.

    Having emailed several manufacturers regarding product storage, the general feedback given was to

    not let products freeze; however, if they do freeze then usually they are fine once thawed. Here are a

    couple of quotes from the many emails I received.

    I did an experiment last winter by freezing a bottle of RG Clearmist Detailer (left it in for about

    3 days!) and its performed perfectly.

    In general terms, waxes should be kept cold but not freeze, so I suggest bringing them inside

    if its a shed/very cold garage and from a potential theft viewpoint, best to have the pricier

    stuff safer indoors. I cant be specific on other stuff, but a general rule of thumb is that

    freezing is not a good idea but cold shouldnt affect most products. Mark Wibberley @ More ThanPolish

    ----------

    Our water based products (NanoWax, Premium Textile & Leather, Shampoo) should not

    freeze in any case, they are very likely damaged if they do.

    The solvent based products (basically the rest of all products) should be stored in an

    environment that is as temperature-stable as possible. If temps drop below 0C it wont

    damage them and they wont freeze but large temperature differences can make the products

    unstable (in general, the water based ones as well). Florian Kessler @ Nano SurfaceSolutions

    ----------

    There is a simple rule of thumb. If its a water based product, ie you can dilute it with water,like a shampoo, polish or water based cleaner wax/AIO then you are going to get it freezing at0 degrees. Waxes and other solvent based products will have much more impressive freezingpoints. Dom Colbeck @ Dodo Juice

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    So, with that in mind, its a good idea to protect any water based products. Whether you bring themindoors, or wrap them up warm in your usual storage area is your choice. From personal experience, Ihave seen Meguiars Next Generation Shampoo split and I left it next to the radiator for a few daysuntil it mixed back together.

    Another cause for concern is pressure washers. Some brands of pressure washers suffer from

    cracked water pumps. This is usually due to water being left in the machine, and then freezing. Whenwater freezes it expands, which will put strain on the pump, hence the cracking. So before puttingaware your pressure washer, ensure you have fully drained all the water from it, the same applies toyour hose pipe, the last thing you want is a frozen hose, which may also split. Finally, before puttingthe pressure washer away, wrap it up in an old blanket or carpet/rug again, this will help keep thecold out, and protect the pump.

    DE-ICING

    Which Method

    There are several options when it comes to de-icing your car in the morning. From switching on the

    heaters, and letting the engine do the work to using aerosol de-icers. Lets take a look at the options

    available, and which will suit you the best.

    Ice Scraper with Squeegee Jug of Water Aerosol De-Icer

    Image Source: Halfords

    Aerosol De-Icers

    Ok, so every year there are numerous threads about the best way to de-ice the car. One subject that

    always crops up is de-icers and we are always told that these are bad for our paintwork but why?

    No-one ever seems to give a good reason as to why we shouldnt use de-icers.

    Well, let us take a look at the main ingredients of a typical de-icer; butane (

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    So Then

    So weve looked at the most common de-icing methods. Which you choose to use is your choice. Mypersonal advice would be to use cold water. This de-ices the windows, and wont strip any wax

    protection. You could also have the engine running whilst doing this, so by the time you have finished,the heaters will be up to temperature, without excessive use of the engine.

    CAR MAINTENANCE

    Stay Safe

    Whilst driving safe sounds like something we should be doing regardless of weather, time of the yearetc, it is easy to forget how a change in conditions can affect your driving. Remember, during thewinter months keep a bigger gap from the car in front. This gives you a greater field of vision, andallows more time for braking in sudden emergencies. Also, keep an eye on vital aspects of your car.Brakes, tyres, wiper blades are all very important during these harsh months.

    Essential Winter Checks

    The colder weather that comes with the winter months puts a lot of strain and demand on your car,particularly on the engine and tyres. Before the weather becomes too severe, it is advisable to checkyour cars vital fluids and tyres. Most modern day cars have a dedicated coolant tank for your radiator,check that this is topped up with the recommended fluid, and to the appropriate levels (check you carshandbook for information.

    Other things to check include your wiper blades and washer fluid levels. A smeared windscreen is thelast thing you want when visibility is bad enough. Smears are usually caused by worn wipers, so getthese checked, and replaced if needs be. Remember to check the washer fluid level. Windscreensget dirtier, quicker in the winter months, and the last thing you want to do is run out of any cleaningfluid.

    Checking tyre tread depth Check those wiper blades Keep your oil topped up

    Image Source: About.com

    Finally, check your tyres. These are the only four things that keep your car on the road! Check thetread depth, and also the pressures (consult your manual for pressure ratings). The legal minimumlimit for tyre tread depth is 1.6mm, this isnt much at all. In fact, studies suggest that anything below3mm sufficiently reduces grip and stopping distance.

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    General Car Safety

    Whilst this may not be winter specific, its always a good idea to check other things on your carbefore winter sets in. Check your oil levels, this will help your engine run smoother and last longer, itgives you the opportunity to diagnose any potential problems before things get worse. It is also agood idea to check your brakes. Its all well and good having tyres that meet requirements, and to grip

    in corners, but what about slowing down, and stopping? If youre unsure how to check these, yourlocal garage will usually give you a free inspection.

    Take Precautions

    So, what can we do to try to make our lives easier? Well, the first easy thing it to leave your wiperblades up, and off the windscreen for the night. This will prevent the blades freezing to the window,and help them last longer in turn. Its also wise to allow extra time for your journey, keep up-to-datewith traffic news by turning on your local radio station. One other tip is to assume all other drivers areidiots. Therefore you will be ready to expect anything. Not every driver on the road may be as

    confident as you are, so give them time and space. Dont rush anyone, and keep your distance fromthe vehicle in front.

    Winter Necessities

    Not exactly car maintenance, but a bit of general advice next. At some point during the winter youmay need to visit out of town friends/family, or take an extra-long journey. You never know what mighthappen once on the open roads. Now Im not going to say make sure you have a pair of skies withyou, and a knowledge of how to build a shelter using nothing other than snow and a plastic fork, butthere are a few things you should have with you at all times.

    A few things to carry in your car at all times during the colder months should be, a blanket, a torch(wind up one are great as no chance of batteries running out), a mobile phone (and a car charger ifyou have one) and your information for your breakdown company. Should the worse happen whilst onthe road, at least you have a blanket to keep you warm and a phone to contact someone for help. Itmight also be worthwhile to carry a hot flask of water, and a pot of tea/coffee to keep you toasty andwarm whilst you wait for help to arrive.

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    RECOMMENDED PRODUCTS

    PASTE WAXES

    Collinite 476s

    Without doubt Collinite 476 is the most durable car wax wehave come across. It doesn't smell great but once you see justhow good the results are and how easy to apply you willforgive it that. Buffing of is also childs play and the results lookabsolutely stunning. It adds depth to solid colours whilst notmuting the flake on metallics.

    Super Double coat paste wax #476 is a Carnauba based waxpackaged in a tin that looks like it belongs in the 50's. Don't letthat fool you though this is one of the finest waxes on the

    market. It is a true paste wax and contains absolutely nocleaners so by applying multiple thin layers you leave a finish

    which is more durable than not just any wax, but just about any sealant on the market.

    Infact Collinite #476 is so durable that the manufacture claims one application will last a full 12months come rain, snow and sun! This is the it's true forte. Somehow Collinite has managed tomanufacture a wax so extremely durable it becomes the ideal choice all year round protection. All thismakes Super DoubleCoat #476s a very popular choice for winter, throwing off the worst weather withease. Source (text & image): Clean Your Car

    FinishKare 1000p

    Developed from a West German process called SynthesisFinishKare 1000P is a blend of advanced pure syntheticmaterials.

    The result is a paste wax characterized by melting temps. of250+ degrees, extreme hardness, extreme slickness, highgloss, and intensive wear without the quality fluctuations foundin natural waxes.

    FinishKare 1000P delivers heavy duty resistance to UV, hard

    water, acid rain, bug spatter, tree sap etc while creating acustomer appearance. Excellent for use on all automotivepaint, gel coat and metal surfaces includingcritical aircraft surfaces. Source (text & image): Clean Your Car

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    Meguiars #16 Paste Wax

    Meguiars never produce anything that is less than ordinaryand #16 Paste Wax follows that tradition. Using an exoticblend of waxes, this is a pure wax that contains no cleaners orabrasives.

    Suitable for all paint finishes including clear coats. It leaves areally wet glossy coat, with absolutely insane beading!

    As with all waxes, apply thin coats a panel at a time. Source(text & image): Clean Your Car

    Collinite Insulator Wax (845)

    Collinite Insulator Wax (845) is a heavy duty liquid wax that was originally designed for

    industrial use, but its usage and performance characteristics also make it ideal forautomotive use in situations where ease of use and durability are paramount, such as

    fleet maintenance for example. Like other Collinite products, it is very easy to apply and

    contains no cleaners or abrasives of any kind, meaning that it can be easily layered. If

    you are looking for a highly durable, time saving car wax then Collinite Insulator Wax

    (845) ticks all the right boxes. Source (text & image): Polished Bliss

    SEALANTS

    Zaino Z-8

    Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal utilizes twenty-five new

    ingredients to bring you the highest level of shine, the deepest

    depths of gloss, the slickest feel, and the most protection

    available in any detail spray, period. But keep in mind, Z-8 isn't

    for everyone, and it hasn't been designed for everyday use. It's

    for those special occasions and extreme instances when you

    need extra performance from the Zaino Show Car Polish

    System.

    If you're ready to take your paint to the next level and treat

    your eyes to the richest, most detailed paint they've ever seen,

    order a bottle of Z-8 Grand FinaleSpray Seal and prepare to be impressed.

    Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal:

    Leaves a high gloss, high shine, deep, rich, wet finish thanks to advanced optical-clarifying

    polymers

    Leaves an ultra-slick finish that repels dust, dirt, environmental fallout and other stains Locks in the improved looks and protection for weeks - not days

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    Contains anti-UV agents to protect your vehicle's finish against damaging sun rays

    Is easy to use: wipe on, wipe off

    Should be used in conjunction with the Zaino Show Car Polish System, including Z-2 PRO, Z-

    3 or Z-5Source (text & image): Zaino Europe

    Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger

    Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger extends the durability of the protective coat of

    polyethylene-acrylic nano-scale polymers laid down by Werkstat Prime Acrylic and

    builds an ever smoother, more uniformly reflective finish. Because it contains no

    cleaning agents whatsoever, Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger is well suited to being

    layered many times, as each fresh application will not strip or degrade the existing

    elastic sealing layer. As a result, Werkstat Acrylic Jett Trigger further improves

    resistance to environmental factors, such as heat, acid and ultraviolet radiation, and

    mechanical damage, such as wash-induced marring and scratching. In addition to its

    generous protective qualities, the resulting ultra-smooth coating ensures that low-angle

    incident light is brilliantly reflected to produce mirror-like images, while the high

    refractive index of the polymers allows high-angle light to refract into the finish and

    improve flake pop. In fact, the light transmittance of the coating laid down by Werkstat Acrylic Jett

    Trigger actually exceeds that of optical glass, thus ensuring that the beauty of your paint will stand out

    with unobstructed clarity. As the most durable product in the Werkstat line, Acrylic Jett Trigger is ideal

    for daily drivers that experience higher than average exposure to the elements, and for this reason is

    absolutely ideal for winter use too. Source (text & image): Polished Bliss

    UNDER-BODY PROTECTION

    Waxoyl

    WaxoylRust Proofing prolongs your vehicles life by protecting against rust and

    damp.

    Features and Benefits:

    Kills old rust

    Prevents new rust

    Spray inside doors, panels, box sections and other internal structures

    Forms flexible, weather-proof skin

    Doesn't crack, dry out or wash off

    Use with Waxoyl High Pressure Sprayer Source (text & image): Halfords

    Bilt Hamber Dynax Under Body

    Dynax UB is a high-performance anti-corrosion wax that provides exceptionally long lasting

    protection to steel surfaces. Dynax UB contains elastic polymers that create a tougher wax coatingthat is more resistant to abrasion than normal wax coatings - this property enables this wax to protect

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    vehicle undersides for prolonged periods and unlike traditionalbitumen underseals Dynax UB will not peel.

    Dynax UB when dry, has the consistency and feel of soft rubber, butis intelligently formulated to expand and contract and as such, isperfect for use on cars which get put away in garages at the end of

    the day or are used all year long.

    It dries to a tough matt black finish and is ideal for application to allunprotected road facing areas of the underside of the car or forareas which need to resist damage from grit/stones etc. In salt-spraytrials (to ASTM B117 conditions) Dynax UB substantiallyoutperforms competitive materials.

    Dynax UB may be applied to another coating of UB, a wide range of painted/coated surfaces or tobare steel. It is not designed to be painted over. Source (text & image): Rubbish Boys Carnauba Wax Shop

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    ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

    Special thanks to:

    Wikipedia

    Woolyhats.co.uk Amazon

    Specialistsocks.co.uk

    Halfords

    About.com

    For the use of their images.

    I would also like to acknowledge the following for their use of images and product descriptions:

    Clean Your Car Halfords

    Rubbish Boys Carnauba Wax Shop

    Zaino Europe

    Polished Bliss

    And finally, an extra special thanks to the members of Detailing World. Without some of the posts on

    there this article would have not been possible. Also a shout to Gordon (Caledonia) for his post on

    applying wax which I have quoted in this article. A thank you to Steve (Lowiepete) for his input in how

    And a thank you to all the manufacturers for theirto wash using ONR during the winter months.

    advice on product storage. Particularly to the following, as I have quoted your emails directly:

    Mark Wibberley (More Than Polish)

    Florian Kessler (Nano Surface Solutions)

    Dom Colbeck (Dodo Juice)

    And thank you to all the other manufacturers who replied

    Thanks to you all.